Excellent! Another straight forward tutorial demonstrating that you don't need to spend a fortune or an eternity when knocking up jigs to improve your enjoyment of the job at hand. I'm a big fan of 'scabby' jigs made from stuff that is literally just chucked out when someone buys a new wardrobe, or new kitchen.
Thank you! It's good to share a simple method. There is a lot of heavy marketing (FOMO) aimed at beginners. Showing something cheap and simple puts an option on the table.
Great build. I will have to build this shooting board some time. Funny see you using a chair as a saw horse, I am currently using an old folding chair as a saw bench too.
apologies in advance as i couldn't find an obviously better place to post this: i've seen you have an old Woden vice with a quick release on your bench. if ever you're inclined to talk about it or them that would be great to see. i've got one in the shed but the quick release doesn't work any more, sooner or later i'll want to have a go at it. knowing how it _should_ work would be most helpful.
@@faceedgewoodworking that’s what I thought but then the the movable part of the vise should be “shorter” in order to clear the saw ? I know i am slow… PS: ah I saw it at 18:33!! Love it !
At a certain point , only one face of the tapered piece is crucial , the other one can be any straight part and then at the end we adjust the end grain section of the outer part (the one that stays there “forever “)?
I think I get you. Yes, the fixed part will get beaten up. But this is fine as it doesn't really support the plane and has no impact on the wood being trimmed.
Doesn't that melamine edge that the sole of the plane registers against have to get planed away - or the top 1/2 or 5/8 inch of it, leaving only an 1/8th or 3/16ths thick edge for the sole of your plane to register against?
I have made a shooting board and yes the outer 1/4 inch of the sole is your stop. I am not sure why the melamine has not been cut the depth of the blade projection.
One of my problems is that the plane breaks a bit on the back of the piece. If I put the back fence farther out solves the issue. But I use the plane for other things and I have to adjust the blade exactly the same way or everything is off.
@@faceedgewoodworking not thick at all between 1/4 and half inch, maybe 3/4 for dovetails. And there is always some tear out on the back. Being extra carefully I do half the board and flip it to do the other half. But if my two sides are not perfectly parallel it doesn't work.
@@jabonet Have you tried working to a knife line? Is the edge against the fence dead straight? I'm sure you've tried or checked these things, just coming up with a few ideas.
@@jabonet If I saw a piece of wood to length and it's critical, I scribe the line with a marking knife. This knife edge is left in after the saw cut. I then work down to the knife line with the plane, even when working on the shooting board.
@@faceedgewoodworking man, I need to figure out what I am doing wrong. I struggle to get more than dust or at best little bitty partial shavings regardless of what I use, or what I sharpen with 🤷🏼♂️ Not gonna lie, part of why I have chased down the sharpening rabbit hole further than otherwise necessary is the struggle I have with end grain, whether on a shooting board or by hand with a chisel (dovetails, tenon shoulders, etc.)
@@memilanuk You'll get there! My recommendation would be pick up a cheap set of chisels (something good for DIY or job site carpentry) and a Norton India IB8 combination stone. Practice on that and see how you go.
@@faceedgewoodworking ironically, I have pretty much exactly that. I'd picked up the Norton combo India stone a while back for other reasons, and some Narex firmer chisels. Been experimenting with oil stones (that's how I found your channel) and freehand sharpening with those, and a spare jack plane iron. So far my results have been sufficient for home carpentry work, bordering on 'shaving' sharp, but decent results in end grain - regardless of technique or medium - have eluded me.
@@memilanuk The Narex steel is good. That said it is quite hard. Something like the Irwin Blue handled chisels are easy to work with. They aren't Sheffield steel but good for learning and quite serviceable.
Good point, however it shows what's important and what's not. If someone had a scabby piece it shows it still works fine. Thanks for the feedback David.
Excellent! Another straight forward tutorial demonstrating that you don't need to spend a fortune or an eternity when knocking up jigs to improve your enjoyment of the job at hand. I'm a big fan of 'scabby' jigs made from stuff that is literally just chucked out when someone buys a new wardrobe, or new kitchen.
Thank you! It's good to share a simple method. There is a lot of heavy marketing (FOMO) aimed at beginners. Showing something cheap and simple puts an option on the table.
The old chair for a saw horse ha loved seeing that. Great as ever fella🎉
Thanks Kevin. It's a true poverty spec production 😀
Very helpful project and well demonstrated.
Thanks!
I rather like how you've done your split fence. I may have to try that on my next shooting board. Thanks for sharing.
That's great. It's just a slight variation on methods I've seen elsewhere, hope it works well for you.
Splendidly straightforward.
It'd be ideal for that Record No.8 😉
@@faceedgewoodworking Ah! You spotted that. Actually I've a Stanley 5 set aside my shooting board - I have other plans for the number 8😁
Great build. I will have to build this shooting board some time. Funny see you using a chair as a saw horse, I am currently using an old folding chair as a saw bench too.
😂 We make do with what we have! Sawing horses are great, I'll have to knock some up!
Thank you !
No trouble!
Cool
Thanks Neo!
apologies in advance as i couldn't find an obviously better place to post this: i've seen you have an old Woden vice with a quick release on your bench. if ever you're inclined to talk about it or them that would be great to see. i've got one in the shed but the quick release doesn't work any more, sooner or later i'll want to have a go at it. knowing how it _should_ work would be most helpful.
Hi Tee Elf. No worries. Hopefully in the shop later, will see what I can do for you.
@@faceedgewoodworking thank you! no rush, of course, but if and when it comes up your thoughts on the subject would be most welcome.
Strange question Sir: 15:00
Why is the bench side of your vise have the 2 corners sloped ?
Not a strange question at all! It gives clearance if I'm using a saw. If I left it square it'd be pretty chewed up.
@@faceedgewoodworking that’s what I thought but then the the movable part of the vise should be “shorter” in order to clear the saw ? I know i am slow…
PS: ah I saw it at 18:33!! Love it !
@@ikust007 I'm sure you're not slow. It shows a great level of intelligence to ask a question instead of staying in the dark.
@@faceedgewoodworking thank you sir, I am honoured. I have much to learn .
At a certain point , only one face of the tapered piece is crucial , the other one can be any straight part and then at the end we adjust the end grain section of the outer part (the one that stays there “forever “)?
I think I get you. Yes, the fixed part will get beaten up. But this is fine as it doesn't really support the plane and has no impact on the wood being trimmed.
@@faceedgewoodworking yup !
Doesn't that melamine edge that the sole of the plane registers against have to get planed away - or the top 1/2 or 5/8 inch of it, leaving only an 1/8th or 3/16ths thick edge for the sole of your plane to register against?
Works just the same as any shooting board 👍
I have made a shooting board and yes the outer 1/4 inch of the sole is your stop. I am not sure why the melamine has not been cut the depth of the blade projection.
One of my problems is that the plane breaks a bit on the back of the piece. If I put the back fence farther out solves the issue. But I use the plane for other things and I have to adjust the blade exactly the same way or everything is off.
It may help to work to a sharp knife line and stop, or a small chamfer. How thick is the stuff you work?
@@faceedgewoodworking not thick at all between 1/4 and half inch, maybe 3/4 for dovetails. And there is always some tear out on the back. Being extra carefully I do half the board and flip it to do the other half. But if my two sides are not perfectly parallel it doesn't work.
@@jabonet Have you tried working to a knife line? Is the edge against the fence dead straight? I'm sure you've tried or checked these things, just coming up with a few ideas.
@@faceedgewoodworking what do you mean" knife line"?
@@jabonet If I saw a piece of wood to length and it's critical, I scribe the line with a marking knife. This knife edge is left in after the saw cut. I then work down to the knife line with the plane, even when working on the shooting board.
So... you're getting end-grain shavings like that using a standard (not low-angle) plane only sharpened to 400 grit?
Yup! Doesn't mean anyone needs to copy it but it's worthwhile putting out there so people know there are options.
@@faceedgewoodworking man, I need to figure out what I am doing wrong. I struggle to get more than dust or at best little bitty partial shavings regardless of what I use, or what I sharpen with 🤷🏼♂️
Not gonna lie, part of why I have chased down the sharpening rabbit hole further than otherwise necessary is the struggle I have with end grain, whether on a shooting board or by hand with a chisel (dovetails, tenon shoulders, etc.)
@@memilanuk You'll get there! My recommendation would be pick up a cheap set of chisels (something good for DIY or job site carpentry) and a Norton India IB8 combination stone.
Practice on that and see how you go.
@@faceedgewoodworking ironically, I have pretty much exactly that. I'd picked up the Norton combo India stone a while back for other reasons, and some Narex firmer chisels. Been experimenting with oil stones (that's how I found your channel) and freehand sharpening with those, and a spare jack plane iron. So far my results have been sufficient for home carpentry work, bordering on 'shaving' sharp, but decent results in end grain - regardless of technique or medium - have eluded me.
@@memilanuk The Narex steel is good. That said it is quite hard. Something like the Irwin Blue handled chisels are easy to work with. They aren't Sheffield steel but good for learning and quite serviceable.
I'M JUST A FUSSY OLD SOD!!
🤣 Nothing wrong with being fussy 👍
Good job but with so much waste on the base board you could have got rid of the broken sections.
Good point, however it shows what's important and what's not. If someone had a scabby piece it shows it still works fine. Thanks for the feedback David.
Yah was just too show the none importance of the parts :) I like it