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Sorry to hear that. They went in super easy for me. Maybe the cups were damaged? Or was the problem not enough clearance between the frame and the lower control arm?

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I don't think so. I think the 8.8 spider gears are slightly bigger. They are different part numbers. But the install procedure is identical.

Hoses can get a P.I.T.A. to remove sometimes. They tend to adhere to the tube they attach to. Twisting them to break that bond tends to help. As for the housing, you have a 4.7L? That is what this video is about. IMS, the T-Stat on other motors in these trucks is where the top hose attaches to the motor. Hope that helps. Good luck.

No problem. Glad my videos are helping you out. I'd recommend picking up the factory service manual for your year & model bike. You should be able to order it from HD's web site. It is a treasure trove of info on how to maintain your bike yourself. There also may be an indy shop in your area to handle bigger jobs. Good luck.

TH-cam University to the rescue!!!

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I'm really not sure what you are referring to here. I do get to the radiator drain plug from the bottom. Its the only way to get to it since it is at the bottom of the radiator.

Yeah, pretty much.

Not really sure what you are talking about. Your comments in multiple of my videos are all over the place with little to no context.

Yes, you are right re the heater and air in the system. However, you are assuming that air in the system is the cause of your overheating. My guess is air not being able to flow over the radiator fins efficiently, a problem with the radiator (damaged, clogged internally or externally), clogged coolant passages in the block or the system not being able to hold pressure. Good luck.

MEANING GET UNDER THE VEHICLE TOO GET TOO THE DRAIN PLUG NOT THROUGH THE HOOD IT'S MUCH EASIER

@@user-ik2ll3fd4s, yes, thats what I do in the video (@1:00, @1:19 and @1:55). I'm not understanding the issue here.

Good luck!

I haven't had a problem with Anti-Seize with over 95k on the clock. You kind of want it to be a little sticky so it stays in place to prevent the axle shaft from rusting to the inside of the wheel hub. You also only need a light coating, not slathered on. If you swipe the coated shaft with your finger and the grease wipes off then the grease is too thin and won't work. Anti-seize will spread and not wipe off. But use whatever works for you. It's your ride. Brake caliper grease should be ok as long as it's not too thin and is high temp so it doesn't liquify and come off the axle shaft over time from gravity & heat. Good luck

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

It's ok. You can tell me. I won't tell anyone else. I promise.

I can't say for sure what's going on with your truck. But there are a TON of these trucks and other makes & models running these motors on the road, so your issue isn't as wide spread as the internet makes it seem. Mine is still running strong with no overheating issues, btw. Overheating is typically due to a restriction or something not letting the coolant flow or system not holding pressure. Since you've already replaced the T-Stat, water pump and (I assume) two large hoses between the block & radiator, it would point to a damaged, clogged and/or bad radiator, or clogged coolant passages in the block and/or coolant leak(s). It also sounds like you've thrown a bunch of parts at it already. Thats like throwing darts in the dark and hoping for a bullseye. I'd take it to a shop and have it diagnosed. If you've done that already, try a different shop. There is always a reason/cause/answer. Good luck.

Yeah, there are many ways to do this job. Some are more messy than others. In the end, use whatever method works for you. Its your ride.

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No problem. Glad to be of service.

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Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Only way to find out what the click is is to take the door panel off and have a look inside as you raise/lower the window. Good luck.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it,

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

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Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. What about the alarm are you asking about?

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OUCH!!! I hope it heals up quickly. Yeah that spring swings quick. Like a bear trap. Take it easy.

@@petrocksgarage Thanks. I did buy a new regulator, but the instructions told me how to modify MY MUSTANG..... to fit THEIR PRODUCT!!! It was returned. (I had another one luckily). There is no way I'm removing that lower rail, on the window so their new skinny one will work. I did get it all back thanks to you, but the plastic inner door clips proved they are 28 years old and will break at will should they choose to. Tomorrow is another day. Long, hot shower, cold Guinness in hand and watching the recorded qualifying for tomorrow's Monaco F1 race. Finger be damned! Life is good! Thanks for your videos. I tipped a brew to you!

@@Dodger2879 any 3rd party 'replacement' part that requires you to modify your car to get it to work is a bad part IMO. Glad to hear you got it all sorted out. The cold beer will likely help heal your finger, or let you forget it's injured. Guinness has amazing healing properties in my experience.

Yes, that is an option. But in my experience the bearing often just pulls through the seal on some vehicles and makes the seal harder to remove afterwards. So I typically just pull the seal separately. Also, the video shows how to remove the seal if that is all you are replacing.

Thanks a lot. I do make these videos to help & teach others. Pay it forward.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my videos helped you out.

Huh? Are you talking about your own vehicle or the one in the video? The one in the video is definitely 4x4, as you can see from CV axle shown in the first 10 seconds of the video.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. IMO, if it doesn't make the bike go faster, stop shorter or handle better it's not necessary.

Good luck!

It can be quick after you've done it a few times. 🙂

I’m draining now 😂 hands big should I change thermostat as well ? Truck been sitting a year and half

@@hurricane3789, if the T-stat has been in the truck for 5+ years I would replace it or at least the T-state gasket. Especially if you remove it to drain the block. The old gasket may not seal properly if its stiff or cracked. Good luck.

Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

Thanks.

I can only guess from here. The only way to truly know the answers to your questions are to take the door panel off and have a look inside. The roll up problem may be the upper bump stops being out of adjustment. Maybe the rubber pad fell off or deteriorated? As for getting stuck, that could be any number of problems. Bent window regulator arm, debris in the window tracks, sticking ball joint of slider where the window attaches to the regulator. The list goes on. Good luck...

@@petrocksgarage your an absolute legend i atleast have some ideas of where to start looking i really really appreciate it!

@@riskyvibes1459, thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Good luck.

The joint was worn out and loose. If you grabbed the shaft and rotated or pushed/pulled on it there was be noticeable movement in one of the joints indicating it was worn out. There should be no play in the joints. There are other ways these things can fail, but that is the most common. If you try that make sure not to be fooled by the entire shaft moving (all the way up to the steering wheel). You need to have the front wheels on the ground and someone holding the steering wheel from moving to isolate the joints. Good luck.

If you get the rack centered with the tie rod ends disconnected you can then eyeball the number of turns to get the wheels to point straight-ish. You'll never get it perfect or properly aligned yourself. Just get it so you can drive it immediately to your local alignment shop and have them do the rest. You can tell if the rack is centered by measuring the length of the bellows boot on either end of the rack. They should be roughly equal when centered. Hope that helps. Good luck.

5W-20 seems too thin to me. Thats the spec oil my Harley takes, for example. Regardless of vehicle or what you read online, use whatever oil is stated in your owners manual for your motor. It is the primary source of truth for any car. Fluid type and capacity may be different for different motors or years or performance packages etc. If you don't have one they are available as pdfs around the interwebs. I found this .pdf for a '98 Mustang like the one in this video. Check out page 133 & 180 where it states to use 5W-30, not 5W-20, and page 178 where it shows the amount of oil you need (5 quartz): www.mustangspecs.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/1998-Mustang-Owners-Manual.pdf Hope that helps., Good luck.