@@bigant29, 26 ounces, as listed in your owners manual on page 130 (assuming you have an '06 softail). Different years & models have different primary oil capacities. So go by whatever is in your owners manual. Good luck.
Nice video! I just bought one of those orange flat drain funnels that slide under your oil filter. You have to put your bike on the jiffy stand, then they give you a big nail and you puncture the top end of the filter, then unscrew the filter a half turn so the nail hole is on the bottom. Works like a charm because the oil drains out from the end of the filter, not the back. Once it's fully drained you unscrew it, zero oil on your bike. Works better than I thought it would.
Not a horrible idea, but the mounting plate for the oil filter isn't designed to get hit by a hammer. You could damage it pretty easy. If you really want to go that route, I'd use a drill not a hammer & nail. Less risk of damage to the oil filter mount (unless you press really hard with the drill). Good luck.
Good point Pet Rock. I guess you could sharpen a nail so it takes only a little strike force to puncture the filter (since nails aren't that sharp). Thanks for making your videos, they have been very helpful. @@petrocksgarage
@@landoncarter6452 thanks. I'd still be worried about hitting the nail with a hammer. The filter housing is still taking the entire force of the hammer strike regardless of how sharp the nail is. Newton's Third Law of Motion and all that.
that is the worst thing HD, EVER DID, WAS STOP MAKING the night train!!! love that bike. I f they were smart, they would put them back into production...they would sell thousands of them, maybe help harley get back in the picture, and make HD OVER HERE, AND NOT OVER SEAS!!
Great instructional video - I have a 96 FLSTC (Heritage Softail Classic) and would like to do my own oil and transmission fluid changes - this video was very helpful to me!! Thank you very much!
nice video...i have been wrenching for a long time on shovel, pans, and sporties...from electrical to doing top ends...however i bought an FXSTC 2010 and im like not into doing much wrenching due to all the new gizmological approch modern harleys are subjected too...hell im embarrassed to say that i had to look up " how to change th oil on the bike " thanks for this video it has given me a boost in wanting to get back to DYS and save me some cash.
+Jay Sands, while this bike is my first Harley it doesn't seem to gizmological to me. Maybe the newish electronic throttle in some newer bikes is, but for the most part its pretty straight forward. I'd recommend getting the factory service manual for your year/model bike. It will pay for itself in the first maintenance job you use it for. Also, consider watching these videos as research & continuing education. Like the old saying goes: if you're not learning you are falling behind.. Good luck...
Thanks for the video. Always check the oil level after running the bike for a few seconds enough time to fill the oil filter. Ill be using your oil filter box technic. Thanks for the tip.
I always use a waxed paper plate and cut a flat spot for under the filter . Also it is important to know the flow/return to tank rate of your oil pump in order to run the bike long enough to get an accurate check on oil level
Great vid, Bro. Love the tip re filter box. BTW- On my 03 Fatboy, I put a small amount of new oil in the new filter to help things along. Not enough to spill out of course. Thx for a good primer that many will benefit from.
Oil filter box idea -ok I use, over and over again , the quart oil container cut to fit as a drain guide. No taping bending or leaking. Loosen the drain plug and oil filter first then the filler cap . Less chance of wearing HOT oil , slower flow that way. Just thoughts
Using the plastic oil container is actually a pretty good idea. I'll have to give it a try. Probably dependent on the shape, and therefor manufacturer, of the container though.
Thks for the tutorial. If you remove the drain plug BEFORE removing the oil tank cap, the hot oil flows a lot less/slows down the flow of oil during removal of the drain plug thereby reducing the amount of hot oil which may flow onto your hands/socket/wrench. Once the drain plug is removed, then remove the oil tank cap to increase the flow of oil.
Its really not that hard to pull the plug out and not get oil on your hands or tools. And even if it did, the oil shouldn't be so hot that it would burn you or cause discomfort. You want the motor warm, not hot. Also, by using your method you are creating a vacuum in the engine. Air is trying to get in through the drain plug hole. This will cause the oil to 'burp', for lack of a better word, as the pressure inside & outside the engine equalizes and can cause the oil to spatter all over the place causing more of a mess. Kind of like when you open a gallon water jug and turn it over to dump out all of the water. It doesn't come out nice and smooth. It spits & spatters as the water comes out. Either way, use whichever method works best for you. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Fantastic very useful especially on ignorant questions better to be thought of fool than open your mouth and remove all doubts thanking you for not making me look foolish
I was just checking this out to see about draining the case oil, apparently not.....hmm. i heard you mention there would be about a quart in the case, sounds about right it just seems odd to me that you dont drain the case as well. This is my first new bike and Im try to get familiar with the new stuff..... Video was great, Thank you
Its more like half a quart left in the case on a Twin-Cam motor like mine. Capacity on my year/model is 3.5 quarts. A drain/filter/fill for me only takes 3 quartz to get to the middle of the dipstick. So only 0.5 quarts remain in the case. That is about 14% of the total capacity. The new oil you put in will dilute that small amount of 'dirty' oil left in the case making it inconsequential. I put 'dirty' in quotes because if you follow the recommended change interval in your owners/service manual (5k miles in my case) the oil in the motor still has some life left in it. If you use synthetic oil, which I recommend, it can go considerably more than 5k miles. So while the oil might look dirty, that doesn't mean it is bad. Color is not a good determination of the lubricity of oil. Hope that helps & makes sense. Stop worrying about getting every drop of oil out of the motor and enjoy your new ride.
My old man just handed down his 06 NT to me. Exact same bike. Going for safety next week and wondering about the running lights. Is it just the tail light that come on for running lights and not the rear signals? My front signals have running lights but my rears don't. Have already watched most your vids. Already been a huge help. Appreciate it
Yes, the rear brake light is always on but the rear turn signals are only on when you press the right/left turn signal buttons. They are not running lights like the front signals. Hope that helps and I'm glad my videos are helping you out. Enjoy the new (to you) ride.
Thanks for a very good video. You emphasize having the bike "level" so you have it on a lift. Could "level" be achieved having the front wheel in a chock or is it better to have it on a lift? I realize the bike would be lower to the ground using a wheel chock. Thanks again.
+Rick Bennett, a wheel chock should work if the one you use is stable enough to keep the bike from tipping over. Most can't without the aid of tie down straps anchored to some stable location. You don't want the bike falling over, or worse on top of you, while you're working on it. Good luck...
Thanks man! Nice information. I love my 06' Night Train and wanna take good care of it. I do not want, wish or need anyone else working on it. How some people graduated their HD Mechanics course is beyond me. Are they a "no leave behind" institution also? Anyway,,, please video and post any or all you Night Train videos. All are helpful and priceless. CHEERS!
> please video and post any or all you Night Train videos. That is the plan… Ive got a bunch already filmed, its the editing that takes the most amount of time and my time is limited. 3hrs per video on average.
Timeless oil changes but some very solid suggestions. I find that the blue paper towels wrapped around the filter to be enough without the drain carboard idea. I use 5% dawn dish soap to clean up...works well.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. There are many ways to do this job. With the towels, the oil doesn't leak past or flow over the sides? Those towels are absorbent, but I don't think they'd soak up all of the oil that comes out. Either way, I'll have to give it a try on my next oil change. It sounds interesting.
@@petrocksgarage Yes it will leak if you use traditional "paper towels" but the blue "shop" towels I pick up at Costco work great. But I like your thinking! Ever considered the "Fumato" adapter for oil changes? I am concerned that it might hang too low but I love them on my cars.
Hello ! Just a quick question: have you made a video to cover oil carry-over problem ? Overfill, loose air filter screws, bad breathing etc etc. Thank you for the videos !
Teflon tape, bad idea. It is not a thread seal, so it's pointless as it seals at the O-ring. A piece of that might block a passage in the oil system should it get in there. Good trick with the box, but I wonder how well the special funnel they sell for this works. Trivia- If you leave the tank cap in place when you drain, you can get a good idea how well your oil breather/flaps on the heads are sealing. If the oil comes out in a trickle, they are good. If not and it pours out as if the cap is removed, they aren't sealing well anymore.
Good point on the teflon. I personally have never used it, but others have recommended it over the years. I agree the o-ring should be able to handle it. Cool idea on the oil breather/flag test. I'll have to try that next oil change. Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
You mentioned putting a little oil on the o ring and also on the filter gasket and the threads of the filter - do you mean to use the motor oil you're putting in or a different type of lubricating oil? Thanks, this video was amazing! I'm getting ready to buy my first bike and want to do these basic services myself!
I know this video is old but where did you get that front wheel?!?! AWSOME would appreciate it. I have an 07 and hate the back wheel in back and chrome up front. Thanks good video
IMO, age of a video doesn't really matter as long as the info in it helps you out. Re the front wheel: To be honest, I got them 10+ years ago and don't remember who I ordered them from. Its a 21" chrome rim & hub, with the same dimensions as the stock rim, with matte black powder coated spokes and chrome nipples. Nothing fancy. Hope that helps.
Correct me if im wrong, Faboys has separate sumps for crankcae, transmission, and primary drive chain?, 3 independent compartments?. I just bought a used Fatboy and I cant find accurate information about this. I remember I had a Japanese motorcycle and It shared the clutch and engine oil.
Yes, you are correct. Three independent compartments. I would also recommend getting the factory service manual for your year/model bike. Enjoy your new ride.
hi I've been following your videos for awhile, very good to the point and well explained. my question to you is, when I've changed my oil I've alwAys been a little over on the dip stivk. this dot line is about how much over from the actual full measurement. ............. I've rode the bike like this and haven't had any issues mechanically but I've a shady tree mech. at best! would you be concerned about this. I've been told about the left over oil in the engine so I poured all but what I think is all but half a qrt of the full 3 maybe a little more. again still reads about as much as that dotted line over the full Mark. any help is welcomed. I have a 06 night train fxstb. I live in Montana and just made 10,500 on it. please keep making videos cause they are awesome!
+Dorian Stinger, make sure you are following the procedure outlined in the owners manual on how to properly check the oil on your bike. The procedure is different for different years & model harley’s. If you are, then any amount over the full mark is a problem. Too much oil can cause oil to come out the throttle body/air intake on long rides, which can get messy pretty quick. I’d take a turkey baster or similar suction device and suck out the excess fluid from the oil tank. On your next oil change, make sure the bike is warm/hot before draining the oil and removing the filter to ensure you get the most oil out as possible. Then add oil incrementally until you get to the proper level. Take note of that amount and use that as a baseline for the amount of oil to use for future oil changes. For me its 3 quarts when I drain the oil and replace the filter. Hope that helps… Good luck...
Yeah, I've seen that (overpriced) funnel from HD, but have never used it let alone had one in my hands. Unless it has a rubber edge to seal against the case, I would imagine it has the same problems of potentially leaking down the side that the oil filter box method does.
good vid- my only criticism- you didn't add oil to the new oil filter. I don't know how important this is but I've always done it. Harleys oil system pumps at about 8 - 10 psi at idle and priming the filter kinda gives the system a 'head start' . At any rate- I love your vids, thanks for making them.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Re pre-oiling the filter, you can add oil to the filter if you want. A lot of people do. Would seem like it would cause a mess since the filter is on it's side, and the oil you put in would just pour out. IMO, pre-oiling really doesn't help much. On twin-cam engines, the oil leaving the oil filter gets dumped right into the crank case. So the oil is not going into any tiny passages or anywhere that actually needs oil pressure. I've got 90k+ miles on my bike and haven't had any engine oil related issues without priming the filter. Hope that makes sense.
@@petrocksgarage you're right about the Twin-Cam oiling path vs. the Evo; I think priming the oil system is more important in the Evo than the TC - Ride Safe
If you ask 5 people what they use and you'll get 6 different answers. I use 20W-50 in engine & Primary and 75W-90 in tranny. But you can't go wrong with what your owners manual for your year/model bike says to use.
I like how u used the socket and extension to pull the plug. Nice tip! Where you used the filter case as a funnel, I always use aluminum foil. Good video man.
Heres a near way I keep oil filters when I remove them from getting all over the pace when I change one. Aluminum foil. On my 02 ford f150 when removing the filter the oil drains down all over the cross member frame that holds the lower a frames, so I just put a sheet of tin foil under the filter and down both sides of the cross frame. On my 02 softail Harley I use foil and tear off a sheet and place under the filter and angle it down the side of my frame.
Yeah, tin foil can be handy as a make shift funnel. I've tried tin foil on my Harley too, but it often is too thin and oil gets underneath it. On my Dodge Durango I have a similar problem as your F150 where the oil filter is over the main cross member. I solve that by taking a 1 Liter plastic soda bottle and cutting the top off and using it to catch the oil. I crack the filter loose, but not enough for fluid to come out. I then slide the soda bottle over the filter and spin off the filter by hand as a unit. Any oil that comes out goes into the soda bottle. Works like a charm. No drips or spills and the filter is all self contained inside the soda bottle when I'm done so I don't have to worry about spilling fluid everywhere when I try to remove the filter from the engine bay. Works great.
We both seem to have creative minds for sure. There are so many tricks to make maintenance and repairs easier. For funnels many times, especially for automatic transmissions in vehicles I just take two sheets of printing paper and roll them together then flex out the top and it makes the bottom small enough to fit in the filler tube. I actually wont use an actual funnel because you need to clean out the small end that picks up dust when the funnel sits and by using ink free paper it is clean. So white printing paper is my funnels. Hope youre enjoying your Harley. My ride is an 02 softail 1450 standard with the complete chrome package
Good idea on the paper funnels. yeah, i'm enjoying my Harley very much. Even though its winter season at the moment (currently 15 degrees F outside) I have a Toys For Tots charity run this weekend as long as it doesn't snow. My bike never really goes up for the winter.
I too always keep my bike up and charged and ready regardless of the weather. I want mine in a way I can roll it out of the garage and just ride it once around the block. Sometimes just having it out so I can sit outside and just look at it. Times when I'm bored is great to check out details. Its amazing of the power output of these 1450 CVO engines and how they balanced them. Earlier this week I rode a 3 mile stretch to my friend that works at a Citco gas station and that engine with that 4 inch stroke doesn't even have to work that much as I go through first gear to fifth gear very very little throttle is used and no vibration. Good luck on the charity run!
Good tips! I like the filter box trick (that always pisses me off! why did HD design it that way?) Love the K&N filter so I don't need to mess around with a filter wrench. Simple Green over brake cleaner is solid advice too! Thanks.
+secretstring, thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I wonder the same thing on why HD designed the filter location that way and haven’t changed it in all these years. Who knows.
There are several other ways to get the oil out of the filter BEFORE you unscrew it. 1. You can use an empty quart oil bottle and cut the body in half lengthwise. Slide the bottle under the filter with the pour spout aimed at your drain pan and punch a hole near the bottom of the filter's endcap. Punch a second relief hole near the top of the endcap and allow to drain. This works best when the bike in leaning on the kick stand. 2. If you have a filter wrench that can use a 3/8" ratchet, use a tall plastic bottle with the bottom cut off that will slip over the filter and filter wrench. Punch a hole in the bottle cap for your long 3/8" extension, slide the extension in, mount the filter wrench to the extension and slide the whole thing over the filter. Undo the filter and retract the extension to draw the filter into the bottle towards the neck. All the oil should be contained in the bottle. You only have to do this once and you will have a containment bottle for the next oil change.
Yeah, there is more than one way to skin a cat. Use what ever method works best for you. HD also sells a plastic tray thing for this purpose too. I've never used it though so I don't know how well it works.
Commenting on an old video, but figure it can't hurt. The box works for you, but another idea is using a 1 liter water bottle (think I used a Dasani liter bottle, don't remember) and basically replicate the funnel that HD sells for this purpose. Ultimately, whatever works is what works best, just tossing ideas out.
Yeah, thats a valid method as long as you can get the bottle to seal around the base of the filter. I use a technique like that to replace the filter on my '03 Durango, except the filter is vertical instead of horizontal and the bottle is so the oil doesn't pour all over the frame.
Lmao...'drop it on the ground...pick it up and "..love ya bro-hope all is well w/ you and the family! on the filter trick, was great Pet, " and..there...you go" lol.
I checked my primay chain last weekend. so I pulled the plugs, jack the rear wheel off the ground, and tried to put it into 4th gear. but the tire-wouldn't turn-at all??? wtf?I did find a tight part of the chain(AFTER FORCING THE REAR TIRE TO MOVE-IN SEGMENTS), and checked it to 5/8-7/8's cold though! but idk what the stuck gear was? I'm sure it was in 4th. just did a clutch adjustment last week also(1/2 turn on the allen key)
Typically if the tire doesn't want to turn then you are fighting the compression in the cylinders. Pulling both plugs should clear that up. However, you said you did that. You want the tranny in the highest possible gear. On my '06 that would be 5th gear. Anything lower then high will be difficult to turn due to gear ratios between the rear sprocket and the tranny & primary. I don't think a clutch adjustment would be the problem of a stuck gear like that. Good luck.
Awesome videos! I am fixing to buy a used night train just curious to how often motor oil should be changed on a bike? Equivalent to a car at 3,000 or more or less? Thanks again!
Go by whatever interval the factory owners/service manual says for your year/model bike. In my case ('06 Night Train) its every 5k miles. Any sooner then that and you are wasting your time, oil & money.
Depending on how thick the filter is, punching a hole in it could require a lot of force. The oil filter mount is not designed to take that kind of impact. You could easily damage it. Maybe use a drill, but then you have a different kind of mess problem if the oil gets flung all over the place from the spinning drill bit. But in the end, use whatever method works for you.
I don't have the service manual handy right now, and I've never had to loosen or remove them, but my guess is they are mounting bolts. They are not something that you would normally need to care about. I wouldn't touch them unless you absolutely need to and know what you are doing and why you are doing it. Good question and good luck.
I don't have the service manual handy right now, and I've never had to loosen or remove them, but my guess is they are mounting bolts. They are not something that you would normally need to care about. I wouldn't touch them unless you absolutely need to and know what you are doing and why you are doing it.
Hey Brother man. Just wanted to say hi. All the time we chatted, I just realized you have a TWIN CAM engine also..too funny!! Do you hear the chains often on yours?(cams),I think my TENSIONER FASTENRS ARE WEARING ( 18,000miles). sounds like a light shearing sound( right side of bike), plastic rubbing against light metal? like a drone, ya know? but the big pulls like a rapped Ape , hard and fast. I adjusted the shifter linkage, and got my toe right under the shifter. Now there is no play, whats soooooo ever! I'm so happy, I just put in Belray Hypoid 75w-140 in tranny , Redline primary case gear oil fluid in primary , And oil, I went with Spectro Heavy duty 1 qt,20w/50 and 1 3/4" qts of straight 50w, the bike runs Awesome, and ALL THE ANNOYING VALVE-TRAIN noise is GONE!! I f I only knew this trick about 20 yrs ago, I would have been alright! oh well...live and learn!!! sorry so long, bro..just got caught up, ya know. peace.
Hey, 18k miles is a little early for the tensioner shoes to be worn out, but stranger things have happened. Mine had around 60k miles on them with plenty of meat on them when I replaced them with a hydraulic tensioners. During your next oil change its easy enough to pull the cover and have a look inside. There is one that is easy to see in the front and one you'll need a small mirror to get to. Re oil: there are so many different oil combos and theories on what is the "best". I tend to not pay attention. You can loose you mind trying to make sense of everyone on the internets 'opinion' on oil. I've never really cared about valve train noise as long as I can't hear it when going down the road, which I can't. I put 75w-80 gear oil in the tranny and 20w-50 in the primary & engine and haven't had any problems with 85k+ miles on the bike. Run what makes you happy.
That's the filter with a gasket around the holes to prevent oil from blowing back, it's the wrong filter. Those holes can't be blocked. You're using a kn170c when you should be using a kn171c
I'm not sure what you're talking about, but around @8:18 you can see the part number on the bottom of the box I use as a funnel and its kn171b. Also, the exploded view of the filter on K&N's web site clearly shows the rubber blow-back thing on the kn171b filter that you are saying shouldn't be there. Also also, the specifications for the kn171b on the web site state it has the 'Anti Drain Back Valve'. Per the K&N web site the kn171b is the correct filter for my bike ('06 HD FXSTBI). The kn170b is listed for Sportsters, pretty much exclusively. www.knfilters.com/kn-170-oil-filter www.knfilters.com/kn-171b-oil-filter
Understandable. Regarding the time based oil changes, you should be going off of milage, not time. Otherwise you are just wasting time, money & oil. The owners manual on my bike says every 5k miles, so thats what I do and the bike is still running strong at over 85k miles. Good luck...
+jack luna, TH-cam won’t let me reply to you directly. Probably something in your settings. Anyway, thanks a lot. I’m glad my videos help you out. Enjoy the extra money in your wallet.
I want to remove all oil an can't on fxdx, but you can on soft tail with oil tank. Drain old oil an Fill fresh oil into tank! (Takes 22 revolutions of motor to circulate oil) So crank engine over (without starting)11 times (gets fresh oil from oil tank to filter). Now remove old filter/replace with new filter. Now remove oil tank intake line (next to tank fill hole) by removing clip/connector. Place oil container on open end of pipe you just removed from tank). Crank engine over 11 more times (gets pumps old oil out an fresh oil pumped in from filter to oil tank). Replace oil intake line back on tank with connecting clip! Now you've flushed all old oils from lines an system, making oil change fresh oil an not 1/3 old oil left in motor!
The total engine oil capacity is 3.5 quarts on my year motor according to the factory service manual. It takes 3 quarts after a drain, filter & fill oil change to get it in the middle of the fill marks on the dip-stick. I show as such in the video. That means there is only about .5 quarts of 'dirty' oil remaining in the motor. Not anywhere near the 1/3 old oil (a.k.a. 1.16 quarts) like you suggest. .5 quarts is only about 14% of the total engine oil capacity. Not a significant enough amount to have any adverse effects on the motor, let alone worry about. One reason (of many) that having a small amount of 'dirty' oil left over in the motor is not a problem is due to an effect called dilution. The fresh oil you put in dilutes any 'dirty' oil that may be left over in the engine to the point of making the 'dirty' oil inconsequential. On top of all that, if you do regular oil changes per the interval outlined in your owners/service manual (5k miles in my case), the oil that you are draining is not completely worn out. It still has a lot of life left in it. Especially if you use full synthetic oil. Synthetics can go for way more than 5k miles. That is why I have been putting the word 'dirty' in quotes in this reply. It may not look the same as brand new oil, but that doesn't mean it is garbage. Color is not how you gauge the condition or effectiveness of oil. That can only really be measured in a lab by testing its lubricity. On top of that, you do a drain, filter & fill on your car/truck without issues and don't do the type of oil change you suggest. Yet it too still has a good amount of 'dirty' oil left in it after you've drained it & pulled the filter. You don't hear people advocating for getting every last drop of 'dirty' oil out in cars/trucks, let alone tractor trailers which often run in the million mile ranges. That is because you don't need to get every last drop of 'dirty' oil out. Especially if you do regular oil changes. So, in conclusion, the 'dirty' oil isn't going to effect your fresh oil or anything silly like that. Just ride it and stop worrying about getting every drop of oil out of the bike. Companies that sell & promote scavenger kits or procedures like yours are praying on unwitting HD owners who don't fully understand how oiling systems work, have money to burn and who typically baby their bikes too much (e.g. everything needs to be perfect & clean). Your bike will run just fine for years doing a drain, filter & fill oil change, like in this video & like the millions of other bikes on the road. I'm pushing over 90k miles on my bike without any problems doing drain, filter & fill oil changes every 5k miles per the manual. My motor runs like a top. However, do what you want to your bike. It's your bike after all.
@@petrocksgarage Thanks so much for lengthy response, but if I have a 3.5 quart system, I don't want .5 quarts of old black dirty oil left in system?! Don't listen to anyone saying old oil ok in fresh oil change? I want as much old oil removed! I've been involved with oil fortifying company since 1989, I own oil test machine, I can have any oil tests I want! An I'm telling you what I've found, rethink an do the steps, while you can on soft tail to remove all oil from small capacity system! Think about this, you clean your plate before eating an not happy with leaving plate partially dirty from previous meals? You buy premium gas don't you? Well put clean oil in motor best you can too!
@@petrocksgarage I'm giving you a way to remove all old oil from motor! You already have to remove an replace filter! I'm giving you a sequence in doing that's best for bike! So only one little baby step to un-clip oil tank intake line (it's right there easy to see get at). Just be smart an get that old shit out of your motor! Your arguing with me to keep old crap in your motor, hahaha!
@@prmhighflr69, oh. The bike is still running strong. I have a bunch of videos recorded, but don't have the time to edit them. It takes about 3hrs per video to edit depending on the length of the video. I do this as a hobby and have very little free time which is why I put videos out so infrequently. Full time job, grad school & 2 kids under 5 take up a lot of time. Either way, I hope the videos I have put out have helped you out.
I poor oil in the filter just a few ounces so it dont have a dry startup . I have got well over the life time miles out of any engine doing this . It makes a mess but well worth it in the long run . So what if you spill some oil . You can wipe it up . New oil is cheaper than new engines .Do this over years and you will get many more miles out of your engine . I have got an excess of over 500,000 out of cars and trucks . I have a 1992 Honda cb 750 with 100,040 miles on it . It still runs good . I changed oil every 2000 miles . If you should change it every 3000 miles change it every 2000 miles . It will cut way down on engine wear .
Putting oil in the filter before install on a Evo or TC motor is pointless. In order for that oil to flow out of the filter and into the motor, pressure needs to build up behind it. That pressure takes time, so you're still 'dry starting' the bike even though its not actually dry since there is still a coating of oil on all the moving parts. Its more akin to starting the bike after not riding it for a few weeks. Over time, depending on the condition of the oil check valves, most of the oil in the motor (and sometimes oil tank if the check valve is bad) ends up at the bottom of the crank case anyways. Re oil change intervals:, you should change the oil however often the service/owners manual for the vehicle recommends. Any more than that is a waste of oil, time & money. I'm pushing 95k miles on my bike, 230k on my wife's '98 Mustang, and 205k on my '03 Durango and change their oil every 5k miles per their respective service/owners manuals. They all run like tops. Not odd ticks, rough running or burning oil. You aren't really helping anything by changing the oil every 2k to 3k miles. But, in the end, it's your ride, time & money. Do with it what you like.
To drain fully you'd need to punch the hole towards the bottom of the filter. Most filters are curved on the end. So I'd be worried about the punch slipping off and hitting the motor. Either way, use whatever method you find works best for you.
Change the fuel filter about every 30k miles / 48k km. If you recently purchased the vehicle it is advisable to change it since you don't know when the previous owner did it last (if at all). Its super simple to replace.
Just put a new o ring or get a new drain plug . I never torque it down . I grab the ratchet at the head and twist it tight like I tighten a nut driver or a screw driver .
Good to know you've got an accurately calibrated wrist. Most people who watch my videos don't and end up way under or over torquing bolts. In this case over/under torquing would cause a leak which could be a safety concern if the leaking oil gets on the rear tire. Either way, I presented the information. Use it how you see fit. Its your ride after all.
Thanks. Re cleaning: nah. I'd rather ride it then clean it. Cleaning a bike doesn't effect it's performance or handling, so its not that important to me. Thats why I bought a bike with very little chrome. :-)
Yup, thats an alternative although I've found aluminum foil harder to seal around the filter than the box method. I have to use/waste a ton of foil instead of using a box that I'm going to throw out anyway.
Some mechanics when things aren't going there way have a tissy on and hit Customers bike with spanners damaging the rims. Seen that before. Better doing it yourself. Thanks
I don't own an Electra Glide and haven't worked on one before. But a quick google search found some instructions: On the trans pan there are three bolts that can be removed. The one on the left facing the front of the bike is the oil drain plug. The one on the right facing down is the trans drain plug. Don't touch the center bolt. I would advise getting the service manual for your year/model bike. It will pay for itself with this job alone. Good luck.
Yeah, it definitely takes a little practice. But even if a little oil gets funneled away is less cleanup in the end. Glad that the video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Brother, pet rock..those k&n oil filter are NOT 5 MICRONS, BRO!! OH, WAIT, YOURS IS AN EVO MOTOR RIGHT, mine is a twin cam, i need the HD, 5 microns !!!
Yeah, its not 5 microns, but the engine is a Twin Cam. You mentioned this about a year ago. 😎 I'll copy/paste my response below. 🤓 re filter: Just because it is stamped HD doesn't mean it is better. I'm pushing close to 100k miles on my motor with no issues and have been exclusively using K&N filters (except for 500 miles on the HD filter that came with the bike when I bought it new). K&N's are 25 micron filters. The tolerances in our motors is about 63 microns. So 5 microns is a bit overkill and will typically clog up & switch to bypass a lot quicker, which is like having no filter at all. See www.v-twinforum.com/forums/engine-oils-lubrication/161098-k-n-kn-171b-c-specifications.html
@@petrocksgarage wow..ty so much for the important info, brother, pet rock!! its just that the last time i used a k&n-171c, the bike sounded very tinny and louder than usual. that wa an awesome article. i will be calling up thomas walden,on more specific info on filtering oil. ty again.
I would be very surprised if an oil filter causes excessive drive train noise. In the end, use whatever filter makes you happy. What matters is you are actually using a filter. 🤓
No I have not purged the old oil and I don't think it is really worth the effort. The total engine oil capacity is 3.5 quarts on my year motor according to the factory service manual. It takes 3 quarts after a drain, filter & fill oil change to get it in the middle of the fill marks on the dip-stick. I show as such in the video. That means there is only about 0.5 quarts of 'dirty' oil remaining in the motor. 0.5 quarts is only about 14% of the total engine oil capacity. Not a significant enough amount to have any adverse effects on the motor, let alone worry about. One reason (of many) that having a small amount of 'dirty' oil left over in the motor is not a problem is due to an effect called dilution. The fresh oil you put in dilutes any 'dirty' oil that may be left over in the engine to the point of making the 'dirty' oil inconsequential. On top of all that, if you do regular oil changes per the interval outlined in your owners/service manual (5k miles in my case), the oil that you are draining is not completely worn out. It still has a lot of life left in it. Especially if you use full synthetic oil. Synthetics can go for way more than 5k miles. That is why I have been putting 'dirty' in quotes in this reply. It may not look the same as brand new oil, but that doesn't mean it is garbage. Color is not how you gauge the condition or effectiveness of oil. That can only really be measured in a lab by testing its lubricity. On top of that, you do a drain, filter & fill on your car/truck without a scavenger type kit without issues. Yet it too still has a good amount of 'dirty' oil left in it after you've drained it & pulled the filter. You don't hear people advocating for scavenger/purge kits on cars/trucks, let alone tractor trailers which often run in the million mile ranges. That is because scavenger/purge kits are not needed. Especially if you do regular oil changes. So, in conclusion, the 'dirty' oil isn't going to effect your fresh oil or anything silly like that. Scavenger/Purge kits are a waste of time, money & effort, IMO. Companies that sell & promote scavenger kits are praying on unwitting HD owners who don't fully understand how oiling systems work and typically baby their bikes too much (e.g. everything needs to be perfect & clean). Your bike will run just fine for years doing a drain, filter & fill oil change, like in this video & like the millions of other bikes on the road. I'm running 90k+ miles on my bike without any problems doing drain, filter & fill oil changes every 5k miles per the manual. However, do what you want to your bike. It's your bike after all.
I just bought this 07 deuce,never owned a Harley before..... real excited
Congrats on the new (to you) ride! You take care of it and it will take care of you. Just remember, these bikes were meant to be ridden. Enjoy!!!
This is one of THE best instructional videos I ever saw period. You are GREAT and did a FANTASTIC job. Crystal clear! Thank you!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
@@petrocksgarage i have the same bike how much primary oil do you ad ?
@@bigant29, 26 ounces, as listed in your owners manual on page 130 (assuming you have an '06 softail). Different years & models have different primary oil capacities. So go by whatever is in your owners manual. Good luck.
Nice video! I just bought one of those orange flat drain funnels that slide under your oil filter. You have to put your bike on the jiffy stand, then they give you a big nail and you puncture the top end of the filter, then unscrew the filter a half turn so the nail hole is on the bottom. Works like a charm because the oil drains out from the end of the filter, not the back. Once it's fully drained you unscrew it, zero oil on your bike. Works better than I thought it would.
Not a horrible idea, but the mounting plate for the oil filter isn't designed to get hit by a hammer. You could damage it pretty easy. If you really want to go that route, I'd use a drill not a hammer & nail. Less risk of damage to the oil filter mount (unless you press really hard with the drill). Good luck.
Good point Pet Rock. I guess you could sharpen a nail so it takes only a little strike force to puncture the filter (since nails aren't that sharp). Thanks for making your videos, they have been very helpful. @@petrocksgarage
@@landoncarter6452 thanks. I'd still be worried about hitting the nail with a hammer. The filter housing is still taking the entire force of the hammer strike regardless of how sharp the nail is. Newton's Third Law of Motion and all that.
I've been taking my bike to the dealer for years...OMG thank you so much, you have made this simple and easy to DIY... I enjoy your videos...
really really late reply... but thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I loved the filter box for a oil drain shield, good job, nice touch
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great videos!! Very helpful! Keep em coming. I rode a 2000 night train for 12 yrs. now I've got a Softail Custom so the videos come in handy.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I've got more videos already recorded. I just need to get time to edit them.
that is the worst thing HD, EVER DID, WAS STOP MAKING the night train!!! love that bike.
I f they were smart, they would put them back into production...they would sell thousands of them, maybe help harley get back in the picture, and make HD OVER HERE, AND NOT OVER SEAS!!
thank you so much for very clear instruction and Tricks . really appreciate your work Sir.
No problem. Glad to be of service.
Great instructional video - I have a 96 FLSTC (Heritage Softail Classic) and would like to do my own oil and transmission fluid changes - this video was very helpful to me!! Thank you very much!
+David Fields, no problem. I'm glad to help.
Good Info.i just got 1st harley and yup a 2000 night train..thank u for the best video yet
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Some of my other Harley videos might also help you out. Enjoy your new (to you) ride!
Good tips on changing oil on the Night Train. I wish I saw this video BEFORE I changed mine. Thanks for the info.
+Pete Kelly, there is always the next oil change. :-) Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
great video. Like the fact that you're clean with what you do. Nice oil filter box technique too
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Awesome Instructional video!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
That box trick worked like a champ thanks bro !!
Thats great! I'm glad it helped you out. Thanks fro watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Awesome camera work-clear and precise!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
nice video...i have been wrenching for a long time on shovel, pans, and sporties...from electrical to doing top ends...however i bought an FXSTC 2010 and im like not into doing much wrenching due to all the new gizmological approch modern harleys are subjected too...hell im embarrassed to say that i had to look up " how to change th oil on the bike " thanks for this video it has given me a boost in wanting to get back to DYS and save me some cash.
+Jay Sands, while this bike is my first Harley it doesn't seem to gizmological to me. Maybe the newish electronic throttle in some newer bikes is, but for the most part its pretty straight forward. I'd recommend getting the factory service manual for your year/model bike. It will pay for itself in the first maintenance job you use it for. Also, consider watching these videos as research & continuing education. Like the old saying goes: if you're not learning you are falling behind.. Good luck...
Great video - never thought of using the oil filter box that way. Will share with friends. Thanks from Tokyo, Japan.
I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the video.
Always check the oil level after running the bike for a few seconds enough time to fill the oil filter.
Ill be using your oil filter box technic.
Thanks for the tip.
Thanks a lot & thanks for the tip.
I always use a waxed paper plate and cut a flat spot for under the filter . Also it is important to know the flow/return to tank rate of your oil pump in order to run the bike long enough to get an accurate check on oil level
Great video. Now I will change my own oil and save money. Thanks again.
I'm glad my videos helped you out. Good luck.
Great vid, Bro. Love the tip re filter box. BTW- On my 03 Fatboy, I put a small amount of new oil in the new filter to help things along. Not enough to spill out of course. Thx for a good primer that many will benefit from.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helps you (and others) out.
Oil filter box idea -ok
I use, over and over again , the quart oil container cut to fit as a drain guide.
No taping bending or leaking.
Loosen the drain plug and oil filter first then the filler cap . Less chance of wearing HOT oil , slower flow that way.
Just thoughts
Using the plastic oil container is actually a pretty good idea. I'll have to give it a try. Probably dependent on the shape, and therefor manufacturer, of the container though.
Nice video bro, I especially like how you speed up the mundane parts to make it go a little faster.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Thks for the tutorial. If you remove the drain plug BEFORE removing the oil tank cap, the hot oil flows a lot less/slows down the flow of oil during removal of the drain plug thereby reducing the amount of hot oil which may flow onto your hands/socket/wrench. Once the drain plug is removed, then remove the oil tank cap to increase the flow of oil.
Its really not that hard to pull the plug out and not get oil on your hands or tools. And even if it did, the oil shouldn't be so hot that it would burn you or cause discomfort. You want the motor warm, not hot. Also, by using your method you are creating a vacuum in the engine. Air is trying to get in through the drain plug hole. This will cause the oil to 'burp', for lack of a better word, as the pressure inside & outside the engine equalizes and can cause the oil to spatter all over the place causing more of a mess. Kind of like when you open a gallon water jug and turn it over to dump out all of the water. It doesn't come out nice and smooth. It spits & spatters as the water comes out. Either way, use whichever method works best for you. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Fantastic very useful especially on ignorant questions better to be thought of fool than open your mouth and remove all doubts thanking you for not making me look foolish
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Btw, I don't think there are stupid questions. Just stupid answers.
I was just checking this out to see about draining the case oil, apparently not.....hmm. i heard you mention there would be about a quart in the case, sounds about right it just seems odd to me that you dont drain the case as well. This is my first new bike and Im try to get familiar with the new stuff..... Video was great, Thank you
Its more like half a quart left in the case on a Twin-Cam motor like mine. Capacity on my year/model is 3.5 quarts. A drain/filter/fill for me only takes 3 quartz to get to the middle of the dipstick. So only 0.5 quarts remain in the case. That is about 14% of the total capacity. The new oil you put in will dilute that small amount of 'dirty' oil left in the case making it inconsequential. I put 'dirty' in quotes because if you follow the recommended change interval in your owners/service manual (5k miles in my case) the oil in the motor still has some life left in it. If you use synthetic oil, which I recommend, it can go considerably more than 5k miles. So while the oil might look dirty, that doesn't mean it is bad. Color is not a good determination of the lubricity of oil. Hope that helps & makes sense. Stop worrying about getting every drop of oil out of the motor and enjoy your new ride.
@@petrocksgarage Got it, Thank You
My old man just handed down his 06 NT to me. Exact same bike. Going for safety next week and wondering about the running lights. Is it just the tail light that come on for running lights and not the rear signals? My front signals have running lights but my rears don't.
Have already watched most your vids. Already been a huge help. Appreciate it
Yes, the rear brake light is always on but the rear turn signals are only on when you press the right/left turn signal buttons. They are not running lights like the front signals. Hope that helps and I'm glad my videos are helping you out. Enjoy the new (to you) ride.
Thanks for a very good video. You emphasize having the bike "level" so you have it on a lift. Could "level" be achieved having the front wheel in a chock or is it better to have it on a lift? I realize the bike would be lower to the ground using a wheel chock. Thanks again.
+Rick Bennett, a wheel chock should work if the one you use is stable enough to keep the bike from tipping over. Most can't without the aid of tie down straps anchored to some stable location. You don't want the bike falling over, or worse on top of you, while you're working on it. Good luck...
I have 06NT and I appreciate your videos. Thank you
*****, thanks. And I appreciate you watching and commenting. :-)
great instructions and luv the filter box trick , thanks for sharing
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Thanks man! Nice information. I love my 06' Night Train and wanna take good care of it. I do not want, wish or need anyone else working on it. How some people graduated their HD Mechanics course is beyond me. Are they a "no leave behind" institution also? Anyway,,, please video and post any or all you Night Train videos. All are helpful and priceless. CHEERS!
> please video and post any or all you Night Train videos.
That is the plan… Ive got a bunch already filmed, its the editing that takes the most amount of time and my time is limited. 3hrs per video on average.
Yea... I like the way you talk. Informative and only the need to know... thanks
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Well made instructional video and some great tips, too!
*****, thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Timeless oil changes but some very solid suggestions. I find that the blue paper towels wrapped around the filter to be enough without the drain carboard idea. I use 5% dawn dish soap to clean up...works well.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. There are many ways to do this job. With the towels, the oil doesn't leak past or flow over the sides? Those towels are absorbent, but I don't think they'd soak up all of the oil that comes out. Either way, I'll have to give it a try on my next oil change. It sounds interesting.
@@petrocksgarage Yes it will leak if you use traditional "paper towels" but the blue "shop" towels I pick up at Costco work great. But I like your thinking! Ever considered the "Fumato" adapter for oil changes? I am concerned that it might hang too low but I love them on my cars.
Good info didn't know oil would seep back in case as motor cooled
Will help me on my 07 Heritage, headed to Daytona Saturday ,
+DoubleDeltaHoundog, yeah, knowing how your motor works is key to being able to maintain it long term. Have fun in Daytona.
Great instructional video , thanks a lot :) Regards from Sweden.
+Fredrik Gerdin, thanks a lot… I appreciate it… My first commenter from Sweden. :-)
Hello !
Just a quick question: have you made a video to cover oil carry-over problem ?
Overfill, loose air filter screws, bad breathing etc etc.
Thank you for the videos !
Sorry, no I have not. I have not experienced that problem.
thxs youn are a great help for people like us that wonne save some money
Thanks a lot. Thanks a lot.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Have a '06 NT here in Iceland.
Deddi Gunn, thanks a lot. I appreciate it. The rides there must have epic views.
Pet Rock's Garage Yes they do - but of course it depends on the weather.
I have a HD 2003 Softail Classic FLSTC. Does it matter what gear my bike is in when I'm doing a clutch adjustment?
You want it in gear, but it doesn't matter which gear. Hope that helps.
Teflon tape, bad idea. It is not a thread seal, so it's pointless as it seals at the O-ring. A piece of that might block a passage in the oil system should it get in there. Good trick with the box, but I wonder how well the special funnel they sell for this works. Trivia- If you leave the tank cap in place when you drain, you can get a good idea how well your oil breather/flaps on the heads are sealing. If the oil comes out in a trickle, they are good. If not and it pours out as if the cap is removed, they aren't sealing well anymore.
Good point on the teflon. I personally have never used it, but others have recommended it over the years. I agree the o-ring should be able to handle it. Cool idea on the oil breather/flag test. I'll have to try that next oil change. Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Sure man, and thanks for doing all the work these vids. They are helpful no doubt.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
You mentioned putting a little oil on the o ring and also on the filter gasket and the threads of the filter - do you mean to use the motor oil you're putting in or a different type of lubricating oil? Thanks, this video was amazing! I'm getting ready to buy my first bike and want to do these basic services myself!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. re oil, use the motor oil you are putting in.
Great instructional vid, thanks. What brand of stand are you using to jack up your bike?
+Greg “Budd” Steele, thanks. I appreciate it. The bike jack is a Craftsman.
I know this video is old but where did you get that front wheel?!?! AWSOME would appreciate it. I have an 07 and hate the back wheel in back and chrome up front. Thanks good video
IMO, age of a video doesn't really matter as long as the info in it helps you out. Re the front wheel: To be honest, I got them 10+ years ago and don't remember who I ordered them from. Its a 21" chrome rim & hub, with the same dimensions as the stock rim, with matte black powder coated spokes and chrome nipples. Nothing fancy. Hope that helps.
Good tips on using filter box !!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
my 1989 Evo FXST has a drain hose from the oil tank. Is there also an engine case drain plug too?
No, just the plug near the swing arm.
Correct me if im wrong, Faboys has separate sumps for crankcae, transmission, and primary drive chain?, 3 independent compartments?. I just bought a used Fatboy and I cant find accurate information about this. I remember I had a Japanese motorcycle and It shared the clutch and engine oil.
Yes, you are correct. Three independent compartments. I would also recommend getting the factory service manual for your year/model bike. Enjoy your new ride.
Thank you for your input, ride safe friend!
hi I've been following your videos for awhile, very good to the point and well explained. my question to you is, when I've changed my oil I've alwAys been a little over on the dip stivk. this dot line is about how much over from the actual full measurement.
.............
I've rode the bike like this and haven't had any issues mechanically but I've a shady tree mech. at best! would you be concerned about this. I've been told about the left over oil in the engine so I poured all but what I think is all but half a qrt of the full 3 maybe a little more. again still reads about as much as that dotted line over the full Mark. any help is welcomed. I have a 06 night train fxstb. I live in Montana and just made 10,500 on it. please keep making videos cause they are awesome!
+Dorian Stinger, make sure you are following the procedure outlined in the owners manual on how to properly check the oil on your bike. The procedure is different for different years & model harley’s. If you are, then any amount over the full mark is a problem. Too much oil can cause oil to come out the throttle body/air intake on long rides, which can get messy pretty quick. I’d take a turkey baster or similar suction device and suck out the excess fluid from the oil tank. On your next oil change, make sure the bike is warm/hot before draining the oil and removing the filter to ensure you get the most oil out as possible. Then add oil incrementally until you get to the proper level. Take note of that amount and use that as a baseline for the amount of oil to use for future oil changes. For me its 3 quarts when I drain the oil and replace the filter. Hope that helps… Good luck...
they do make a funnel designed for bikes that fits under the oil filter, still pretty good idea using the oil filter box
Yeah, I've seen that (overpriced) funnel from HD, but have never used it let alone had one in my hands. Unless it has a rubber edge to seal against the case, I would imagine it has the same problems of potentially leaking down the side that the oil filter box method does.
great instructional video! Thanks
+Harold Butts, no problem. I'm glad it helped.
good vid- my only criticism- you didn't add oil to the new oil filter. I don't know how important this is but I've always done it. Harleys oil system pumps at about 8 - 10 psi at idle and priming the filter kinda gives the system a 'head start' . At any rate- I love your vids, thanks for making them.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Re pre-oiling the filter, you can add oil to the filter if you want. A lot of people do. Would seem like it would cause a mess since the filter is on it's side, and the oil you put in would just pour out. IMO, pre-oiling really doesn't help much. On twin-cam engines, the oil leaving the oil filter gets dumped right into the crank case. So the oil is not going into any tiny passages or anywhere that actually needs oil pressure. I've got 90k+ miles on my bike and haven't had any engine oil related issues without priming the filter. Hope that makes sense.
@@petrocksgarage you're right about the Twin-Cam oiling path vs. the Evo; I think priming the oil system is more important in the Evo than the TC - Ride Safe
Got a question that puzzles a lot of people....do you use different weight oil for the transmission and primary than the engine crankcase?
If you ask 5 people what they use and you'll get 6 different answers. I use 20W-50 in engine & Primary and 75W-90 in tranny. But you can't go wrong with what your owners manual for your year/model bike says to use.
That's awesome i will be doing this in the next couple days.
Thanks a lot. Good luck.
I like how u used the socket and extension to pull the plug. Nice tip! Where you used the filter case as a funnel, I always use aluminum foil. Good video man.
Marxutube, thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Heres a near way I keep oil filters when I remove them from getting all over the pace when I change one. Aluminum foil. On my 02 ford f150 when removing the filter the oil drains down all over the cross member frame that holds the lower a frames, so I just put a sheet of tin foil under the filter and down both sides of the cross frame. On my 02 softail Harley I use foil and tear off a sheet and place under the filter and angle it down the side of my frame.
Yeah, tin foil can be handy as a make shift funnel. I've tried tin foil on my Harley too, but it often is too thin and oil gets underneath it. On my Dodge Durango I have a similar problem as your F150 where the oil filter is over the main cross member. I solve that by taking a 1 Liter plastic soda bottle and cutting the top off and using it to catch the oil. I crack the filter loose, but not enough for fluid to come out. I then slide the soda bottle over the filter and spin off the filter by hand as a unit. Any oil that comes out goes into the soda bottle. Works like a charm. No drips or spills and the filter is all self contained inside the soda bottle when I'm done so I don't have to worry about spilling fluid everywhere when I try to remove the filter from the engine bay. Works great.
We both seem to have creative minds for sure. There are so many tricks to make maintenance and repairs easier. For funnels many times, especially for automatic transmissions in vehicles I just take two sheets of printing paper and roll them together then flex out the top and it makes the bottom small enough to fit in the filler tube. I actually wont use an actual funnel because you need to clean out the small end that picks up dust when the funnel sits and by using ink free paper it is clean. So white printing paper is my funnels. Hope youre enjoying your Harley. My ride is an 02 softail 1450 standard with the complete chrome package
Good idea on the paper funnels. yeah, i'm enjoying my Harley very much. Even though its winter season at the moment (currently 15 degrees F outside) I have a Toys For Tots charity run this weekend as long as it doesn't snow. My bike never really goes up for the winter.
I too always keep my bike up and charged and ready regardless of the weather. I want mine in a way I can roll it out of the garage and just ride it once around the block. Sometimes just having it out so I can sit outside and just look at it. Times when I'm bored is great to check out details. Its amazing of the power output of these 1450 CVO engines and how they balanced them. Earlier this week I rode a 3 mile stretch to my friend that works at a Citco gas station and that engine with that 4 inch stroke doesn't even have to work that much as I go through first gear to fifth gear very very little throttle is used and no vibration. Good luck on the charity run!
I have the same bike. What engine and trans oil do you use?
Engine & Primary: 20W-50. Trans: 75W-90. All synthetic.
He’s right, never use p.t.f.e. On oil systems it could get into the system and block something up!
Thanks.
Thank a lot am going for it now i feel comfy to try it
I have a 2000 night train
pat walker, good luck...
Fjukin piece of art! Real piece of motorcycle maint art happening!
I'm henceforth your fan.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great top tips. Many thanks. .....
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I always loosen bolts I'm gonna remove before lifting bike in the air...alot of bike falls from stand is when the monkey is swinging on the wrench..
Thats a good idea.
Good tips!
I like the filter box trick (that always pisses me off! why did HD design it that way?)
Love the K&N filter so I don't need to mess around with a filter wrench.
Simple Green over brake cleaner is solid advice too! Thanks.
+secretstring, thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I wonder the same thing on why HD designed the filter location that way and haven’t changed it in all these years. Who knows.
Great video. Very useful.
Todd Carter, thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Thanks for watching & commenting.
There are several other ways to get the oil out of the filter BEFORE you unscrew it. 1. You can use an empty quart oil bottle and cut the body in half lengthwise. Slide the bottle under the filter with the pour spout aimed at your drain pan and punch a hole near the bottom of the filter's endcap. Punch a second relief hole near the top of the endcap and allow to drain. This works best when the bike in leaning on the kick stand.
2. If you have a filter wrench that can use a 3/8" ratchet, use a tall plastic bottle with the bottom cut off that will slip over the filter and filter wrench. Punch a hole in the bottle cap for your long 3/8" extension, slide the extension in, mount the filter wrench to the extension and slide the whole thing over the filter. Undo the filter and retract the extension to draw the filter into the bottle towards the neck. All the oil should be contained in the bottle. You only have to do this once and you will have a containment bottle for the next oil change.
Yeah, there is more than one way to skin a cat. Use what ever method works best for you. HD also sells a plastic tray thing for this purpose too. I've never used it though so I don't know how well it works.
@@petrocksgarage Love your videos by the way... I subscribed today!
Thanks. I appreciate it.
Commenting on an old video, but figure it can't hurt. The box works for you, but another idea is using a 1 liter water bottle (think I used a Dasani liter bottle, don't remember) and basically replicate the funnel that HD sells for this purpose. Ultimately, whatever works is what works best, just tossing ideas out.
Yeah, thats a valid method as long as you can get the bottle to seal around the base of the filter. I use a technique like that to replace the filter on my '03 Durango, except the filter is vertical instead of horizontal and the bottle is so the oil doesn't pour all over the frame.
Nice vid, thanks for sharing.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Lmao...'drop it on the ground...pick it up and "..love ya bro-hope all is well w/ you and the family! on the filter trick, was great Pet, " and..there...you go" lol.
Yeah, I'm all thumbs sometimes. :-) Thanks a lot.
Nahh just busting ,...your an Awesome Mechanic, my friend! You taught me a lot so far...watching your editorials! :-)
I checked my primay chain last weekend. so I pulled the plugs, jack the rear wheel off the ground, and tried to put it into 4th gear. but the tire-wouldn't turn-at all??? wtf?I did find a tight part of the chain(AFTER FORCING THE REAR TIRE TO MOVE-IN SEGMENTS), and checked it to 5/8-7/8's cold though! but idk what the stuck gear was? I'm sure it was in 4th. just did a clutch adjustment last week also(1/2 turn on the allen key)
Yeah, I know you were pulling my leg. Thanks for the complements. Means a lot. Pay it forward to someone else. :-)
Typically if the tire doesn't want to turn then you are fighting the compression in the cylinders. Pulling both plugs should clear that up. However, you said you did that. You want the tranny in the highest possible gear. On my '06 that would be 5th gear. Anything lower then high will be difficult to turn due to gear ratios between the rear sprocket and the tranny & primary. I don't think a clutch adjustment would be the problem of a stuck gear like that. Good luck.
Awesome videos! I am fixing to buy a used night train just curious to how often motor oil should be changed on a bike? Equivalent to a car at 3,000 or more or less? Thanks again!
Go by whatever interval the factory owners/service manual says for your year/model bike. In my case ('06 Night Train) its every 5k miles. Any sooner then that and you are wasting your time, oil & money.
If you punch a hole in the old oil filter with a small funnel under it you can drain the old filter with very little mess.
Depending on how thick the filter is, punching a hole in it could require a lot of force. The oil filter mount is not designed to take that kind of impact. You could easily damage it. Maybe use a drill, but then you have a different kind of mess problem if the oil gets flung all over the place from the spinning drill bit. But in the end, use whatever method works for you.
So what are the two Allen screws on the oil filter pump
I don't have the service manual handy right now, and I've never had to loosen or remove them, but my guess is they are mounting bolts. They are not something that you would normally need to care about. I wouldn't touch them unless you absolutely need to and know what you are doing and why you are doing it. Good question and good luck.
I don't have the service manual handy right now, and I've never had to loosen or remove them, but my guess is they are mounting bolts. They are not something that you would normally need to care about. I wouldn't touch them unless you absolutely need to and know what you are doing and why you are doing it.
Hey Brother man. Just wanted to say hi. All the time we chatted, I just realized you have a TWIN CAM engine also..too funny!! Do you hear the chains often on yours?(cams),I think my TENSIONER FASTENRS ARE WEARING ( 18,000miles). sounds like a light shearing sound( right side of bike), plastic rubbing against light metal? like a drone, ya know? but the big pulls like a rapped Ape , hard and fast. I adjusted the shifter linkage, and got my toe right under the shifter. Now there is no play, whats soooooo ever! I'm so happy, I just put in Belray Hypoid 75w-140 in tranny , Redline primary case gear oil fluid in primary , And oil, I went with Spectro Heavy duty 1 qt,20w/50 and 1 3/4" qts of straight 50w, the bike runs Awesome, and ALL THE ANNOYING VALVE-TRAIN noise is GONE!! I f I only knew this trick about 20 yrs ago, I would have been alright! oh well...live and learn!!! sorry so long, bro..just got caught up, ya know. peace.
Hey, 18k miles is a little early for the tensioner shoes to be worn out, but stranger things have happened. Mine had around 60k miles on them with plenty of meat on them when I replaced them with a hydraulic tensioners. During your next oil change its easy enough to pull the cover and have a look inside. There is one that is easy to see in the front and one you'll need a small mirror to get to. Re oil: there are so many different oil combos and theories on what is the "best". I tend to not pay attention. You can loose you mind trying to make sense of everyone on the internets 'opinion' on oil. I've never really cared about valve train noise as long as I can't hear it when going down the road, which I can't. I put 75w-80 gear oil in the tranny and 20w-50 in the primary & engine and haven't had any problems with 85k+ miles on the bike. Run what makes you happy.
Great video!
Mike D, thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Aluminum foil helps to contain oil where you want
Yeah, that would work too just like my box method.
Very helpful
Glad to be of service.
Nice video,can you give me the # of K&N oil filter, I have a 04 fxsti that takes same one, that i just bought.
It's KN-171B for the black and KN-171C for chrome, but go to knfilters.com to make sure that part will fit your bike. Good luck.
Thanks ,yes that will fit .
What is the name of the oil filter you are using? at 8:28? Thanks
+Mitchell Mammel, its a K&N filter.
Pet Rock's Garage thanks alot
+Mitchell Mammel, no problem but any filter & filter box will do the job.
Great video love it
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
That's the filter with a gasket around the holes to prevent oil from blowing back, it's the wrong filter. Those holes can't be blocked. You're using a kn170c when you should be using a kn171c
I'm not sure what you're talking about, but around @8:18 you can see the part number on the bottom of the box I use as a funnel and its kn171b. Also, the exploded view of the filter on K&N's web site clearly shows the rubber blow-back thing on the kn171b filter that you are saying shouldn't be there. Also also, the specifications for the kn171b on the web site state it has the 'Anti Drain Back Valve'. Per the K&N web site the kn171b is the correct filter for my bike ('06 HD FXSTBI). The kn170b is listed for Sportsters, pretty much exclusively.
www.knfilters.com/kn-170-oil-filter
www.knfilters.com/kn-171b-oil-filter
Thank you.. It helped a lot
No problem. I’m glad my video helped you out.
+Pet Rock's Garage yeah I usually make a oil change 1 or 2 times in the year so it's kinda hard to remember... So this video helped...
Understandable. Regarding the time based oil changes, you should be going off of milage, not time. Otherwise you are just wasting time, money & oil. The owners manual on my bike says every 5k miles, so thats what I do and the bike is still running strong at over 85k miles. Good luck...
+jack luna, TH-cam won’t let me reply to you directly. Probably something in your settings. Anyway, thanks a lot. I’m glad my videos help you out. Enjoy the extra money in your wallet.
Great videos thanks
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I want to remove all oil an can't on fxdx, but you can on soft tail with oil tank. Drain old oil an Fill fresh oil into tank! (Takes 22 revolutions of motor to circulate oil) So crank engine over (without starting)11 times (gets fresh oil from oil tank to filter). Now remove old filter/replace with new filter. Now remove oil tank intake line (next to tank fill hole) by removing clip/connector. Place oil container on open end of pipe you just removed from tank). Crank engine over 11 more times (gets pumps old oil out an fresh oil pumped in from filter to oil tank). Replace oil intake line back on tank with connecting clip! Now you've flushed all old oils from lines an system, making oil change fresh oil an not 1/3 old oil left in motor!
The total engine oil capacity is 3.5 quarts on my year motor according to the factory service manual. It takes 3 quarts after a drain, filter & fill oil change to get it in the middle of the fill marks on the dip-stick. I show as such in the video. That means there is only about .5 quarts of 'dirty' oil remaining in the motor. Not anywhere near the 1/3 old oil (a.k.a. 1.16 quarts) like you suggest. .5 quarts is only about 14% of the total engine oil capacity. Not a significant enough amount to have any adverse effects on the motor, let alone worry about.
One reason (of many) that having a small amount of 'dirty' oil left over in the motor is not a problem is due to an effect called dilution. The fresh oil you put in dilutes any 'dirty' oil that may be left over in the engine to the point of making the 'dirty' oil inconsequential.
On top of all that, if you do regular oil changes per the interval outlined in your owners/service manual (5k miles in my case), the oil that you are draining is not completely worn out. It still has a lot of life left in it. Especially if you use full synthetic oil. Synthetics can go for way more than 5k miles. That is why I have been putting the word 'dirty' in quotes in this reply. It may not look the same as brand new oil, but that doesn't mean it is garbage. Color is not how you gauge the condition or effectiveness of oil. That can only really be measured in a lab by testing its lubricity.
On top of that, you do a drain, filter & fill on your car/truck without issues and don't do the type of oil change you suggest. Yet it too still has a good amount of 'dirty' oil left in it after you've drained it & pulled the filter. You don't hear people advocating for getting every last drop of 'dirty' oil out in cars/trucks, let alone tractor trailers which often run in the million mile ranges. That is because you don't need to get every last drop of 'dirty' oil out. Especially if you do regular oil changes.
So, in conclusion, the 'dirty' oil isn't going to effect your fresh oil or anything silly like that. Just ride it and stop worrying about getting every drop of oil out of the bike. Companies that sell & promote scavenger kits or procedures like yours are praying on unwitting HD owners who don't fully understand how oiling systems work, have money to burn and who typically baby their bikes too much (e.g. everything needs to be perfect & clean). Your bike will run just fine for years doing a drain, filter & fill oil change, like in this video & like the millions of other bikes on the road. I'm pushing over 90k miles on my bike without any problems doing drain, filter & fill oil changes every 5k miles per the manual. My motor runs like a top. However, do what you want to your bike. It's your bike after all.
@@petrocksgarage Thanks so much for lengthy response, but if I have a 3.5 quart system, I don't want .5 quarts of old black dirty oil left in system?! Don't listen to anyone saying old oil ok in fresh oil change? I want as much old oil removed! I've been involved with oil fortifying company since 1989, I own oil test machine, I can have any oil tests I want! An I'm telling you what I've found, rethink an do the steps, while you can on soft tail to remove all oil from small capacity system! Think about this, you clean your plate before eating an not happy with leaving plate partially dirty from previous meals? You buy premium gas don't you? Well put clean oil in motor best you can too!
@@petrocksgarage I'm giving you a way to remove all old oil from motor! You already have to remove an replace filter! I'm giving you a sequence in doing that's best for bike! So only one little baby step to un-clip oil tank intake line (it's right there easy to see get at). Just be smart an get that old shit out of your motor! Your arguing with me to keep old crap in your motor, hahaha!
I haven't seen simple green since I left USMC lol
Simple Green is pretty handy and available at most grocery stores, or by the gallon at CostCo.
a very great aid for the avid rookie
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Thanks 😊
No problem.
Dyno = Dino (as in dinosaur).. Nice vid..
+Randy Obert, all spelling & grammatical errors are done on purpose for the proofreadingly challenged. Thanks for watching and proofreading. :-)
Hey petrock are you still out there?
Yup
@@petrocksgarage haven't seen any videos on the night train
@@prmhighflr69, oh. The bike is still running strong. I have a bunch of videos recorded, but don't have the time to edit them. It takes about 3hrs per video to edit depending on the length of the video. I do this as a hobby and have very little free time which is why I put videos out so infrequently. Full time job, grad school & 2 kids under 5 take up a lot of time. Either way, I hope the videos I have put out have helped you out.
I use a piece of tin foil for underneath filter
That can work too.
I poor oil in the filter just a few ounces so it dont have a dry startup . I have got well over the life time miles out of any engine doing this . It makes a mess but well worth it in the long run . So what if you spill some oil . You can wipe it up . New oil is cheaper than new engines .Do this over years and you will get many more miles out of your engine . I have got an excess of over 500,000 out of cars and trucks . I have a 1992 Honda cb 750 with 100,040 miles on it . It still runs good . I changed oil every 2000 miles . If you should change it every 3000 miles change it every 2000 miles . It will cut way down on engine wear .
Putting oil in the filter before install on a Evo or TC motor is pointless. In order for that oil to flow out of the filter and into the motor, pressure needs to build up behind it. That pressure takes time, so you're still 'dry starting' the bike even though its not actually dry since there is still a coating of oil on all the moving parts. Its more akin to starting the bike after not riding it for a few weeks. Over time, depending on the condition of the oil check valves, most of the oil in the motor (and sometimes oil tank if the check valve is bad) ends up at the bottom of the crank case anyways.
Re oil change intervals:, you should change the oil however often the service/owners manual for the vehicle recommends. Any more than that is a waste of oil, time & money. I'm pushing 95k miles on my bike, 230k on my wife's '98 Mustang, and 205k on my '03 Durango and change their oil every 5k miles per their respective service/owners manuals. They all run like tops. Not odd ticks, rough running or burning oil. You aren't really helping anything by changing the oil every 2k to 3k miles. But, in the end, it's your ride, time & money. Do with it what you like.
I think using a punch on the oil filter end to let the oil drain is better.
To drain fully you'd need to punch the hole towards the bottom of the filter. Most filters are curved on the end. So I'd be worried about the punch slipping off and hitting the motor. Either way, use whatever method you find works best for you.
how much km to change fluel filter?
Change the fuel filter about every 30k miles / 48k km. If you recently purchased the vehicle it is advisable to change it since you don't know when the previous owner did it last (if at all). Its super simple to replace.
Pet Rock's Garage only mine. Still Earl. Made 18.000km. Thanks
Can't believe shops charge $75 for this lol it's so ridiculously easy.
Yeah, its highway robbery IMO. Some charge much more than that. My local HD dealer charges $150, for example.
Damn 76k miles. My 09 train has 5k. Ive got so many kids now i cant ride it lol.
It is just over 90k now. 5k is barely broken in, IMO. 🤓 Re: kids... Sidecar. 😃
Just put a new o ring or get a new drain plug . I never torque it down . I grab the ratchet at the head and twist it tight like I tighten a nut driver or a screw driver .
Good to know you've got an accurately calibrated wrist. Most people who watch my videos don't and end up way under or over torquing bolts. In this case over/under torquing would cause a leak which could be a safety concern if the leaking oil gets on the rear tire. Either way, I presented the information. Use it how you see fit. Its your ride after all.
Great video but ,dude, clean that thang
Thanks. Re cleaning: nah. I'd rather ride it then clean it. Cleaning a bike doesn't effect it's performance or handling, so its not that important to me. Thats why I bought a bike with very little chrome. :-)
Could put aluminum foil under the filter.
Yup, thats an alternative although I've found aluminum foil harder to seal around the filter than the box method. I have to use/waste a ton of foil instead of using a box that I'm going to throw out anyway.
@@petrocksgarage That’s fair 🤔🤓 somewhere some one probably vacuums it all out with a tube lol
@@sixwheelcarlisle8491, yeah stranger things have happened.
Some mechanics when things aren't going there way have a tissy on and hit Customers bike with spanners damaging the rims. Seen that before. Better doing it yourself. Thanks
Completely agree.
Thanks!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻💀🇧🇷
You're welcome!!!
where is drain plug on a 04 Electric Glide
I don't own an Electra Glide and haven't worked on one before. But a quick google search found some instructions: On the trans pan there are three bolts that can be removed. The one on the left facing the front of the bike is the oil drain plug. The one on the right facing down is the trans drain plug. Don't touch the center bolt. I would advise getting the service manual for your year/model bike. It will pay for itself with this job alone. Good luck.
Lol that trick failed miserably for me... Fyi wear gloves lol... good, video helped me out.
Yeah, it definitely takes a little practice. But even if a little oil gets funneled away is less cleanup in the end. Glad that the video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Brother, pet rock..those k&n oil filter are NOT 5 MICRONS, BRO!!
OH, WAIT, YOURS IS AN EVO MOTOR RIGHT, mine is a twin cam, i need the HD, 5 microns !!!
Yeah, its not 5 microns, but the engine is a Twin Cam. You mentioned this about a year ago. 😎 I'll copy/paste my response below. 🤓
re filter: Just because it is stamped HD doesn't mean it is better. I'm pushing close to 100k miles on my motor with no issues and have been exclusively using K&N filters (except for 500 miles on the HD filter that came with the bike when I bought it new). K&N's are 25 micron filters. The tolerances in our motors is about 63 microns. So 5 microns is a bit overkill and will typically clog up & switch to bypass a lot quicker, which is like having no filter at all. See www.v-twinforum.com/forums/engine-oils-lubrication/161098-k-n-kn-171b-c-specifications.html
@@petrocksgarage wow..ty so much for the important info, brother, pet rock!!
its just that the last time i used a k&n-171c, the bike sounded very tinny and louder than usual. that wa an awesome article. i will be calling up thomas walden,on more specific info on filtering oil. ty again.
I would be very surprised if an oil filter causes excessive drive train noise. In the end, use whatever filter makes you happy. What matters is you are actually using a filter. 🤓
Why not purge all the old oil from the engine, easy to do, that way you don't have old dirty oil mucking up your new oil. J.S.
No I have not purged the old oil and I don't think it is really worth the effort. The total engine oil capacity is 3.5 quarts on my year motor according to the factory service manual. It takes 3 quarts after a drain, filter & fill oil change to get it in the middle of the fill marks on the dip-stick. I show as such in the video. That means there is only about 0.5 quarts of 'dirty' oil remaining in the motor. 0.5 quarts is only about 14% of the total engine oil capacity. Not a significant enough amount to have any adverse effects on the motor, let alone worry about.
One reason (of many) that having a small amount of 'dirty' oil left over in the motor is not a problem is due to an effect called dilution. The fresh oil you put in dilutes any 'dirty' oil that may be left over in the engine to the point of making the 'dirty' oil inconsequential.
On top of all that, if you do regular oil changes per the interval outlined in your owners/service manual (5k miles in my case), the oil that you are draining is not completely worn out. It still has a lot of life left in it. Especially if you use full synthetic oil. Synthetics can go for way more than 5k miles. That is why I have been putting 'dirty' in quotes in this reply. It may not look the same as brand new oil, but that doesn't mean it is garbage. Color is not how you gauge the condition or effectiveness of oil. That can only really be measured in a lab by testing its lubricity.
On top of that, you do a drain, filter & fill on your car/truck without a scavenger type kit without issues. Yet it too still has a good amount of 'dirty' oil left in it after you've drained it & pulled the filter. You don't hear people advocating for scavenger/purge kits on cars/trucks, let alone tractor trailers which often run in the million mile ranges. That is because scavenger/purge kits are not needed. Especially if you do regular oil changes.
So, in conclusion, the 'dirty' oil isn't going to effect your fresh oil or anything silly like that. Scavenger/Purge kits are a waste of time, money & effort, IMO. Companies that sell & promote scavenger kits are praying on unwitting HD owners who don't fully understand how oiling systems work and typically baby their bikes too much (e.g. everything needs to be perfect & clean). Your bike will run just fine for years doing a drain, filter & fill oil change, like in this video & like the millions of other bikes on the road. I'm running 90k+ miles on my bike without any problems doing drain, filter & fill oil changes every 5k miles per the manual. However, do what you want to your bike. It's your bike after all.