Thanks a million for this, my dad just got me a 98 mustang and we're gonna change the oil tomorrow. It's my first car and now I know how to change the oil c: (never have before tbh) again, thank you very much for this, i appreciate it :')
gzuz1118, no problem. I’m glad I was able to help. Congrats on the new (to you) ride. Every car owner should know how to change their car’s oil, brakes and rotate the tires, IMO. If you take care of it, it will take care of you. Have fun tomorrow and good luck.
I wanted to say thank you for making and posting this video. I'm a 50 year old guy and I know it sounds silly for a guy my age to admit this, but I couldn't find that drain plug for nothin'! :) (Passenger side..., well I'll be da....!") lol
You are awesome. You show and explain things perfect. And don't worry about your mistakes on naming things. Thank you for allowing me to make sure I'm going to do it correctly.
That sounds really weird. I doubt changing the oil had anything to do with it. I'd have a friend help you find the source of the noise and go from there. Good luck.
Thanks for your help in locating the drain plug. I already replaced the oil filter but couldn't find the drain plug. On my 94 mustang, there isn't a bar underneath the oil pan, should it be a concern or not? Thanks again.
No problem. Glad to be of service. re bar under the oil pan, convertibles have the X-brace to help stiffen the frame that connects the sides of the k-member. Coupes don't need the brace, but it also wouldn't hurt if it did.
Good video, thanks for making this! It is also a good idea to replace the gasket on your oil drain plug. Also, no need to use the wrench to tighten the oil filter, just "hand tight" is good enough.
Unless the oil drain plug gasket is damaged, and you snug it down well, it won't leak. I have not replaced the one on this vehicle since I took over maintenance on it over a decade ago and it hasn't leaked. re using a wrench: different people have different hand strengths. So hand tight could be over tight for one person and loose for another. Using a wrench with a specific amount of rotation (1/2 to 3/4 turn) takes the variability & human error out of it. Most people watching my videos are not experienced mechanics (and lack a calibrated torque-hand) and are often doing this job for the first time. So taking the guess work out of the process helps them out a lot.
El tapón de drenaje de aceite está en el lado del pasajero del motor. En el fondo del cárter de aceite. Espero que ayude y Google tradujo esto correctamente.
I watched your repairs on your mustang. I have a question about the rear end my car Shake's when excellerating I was wandering if you would know what is making the noise
robert williams, it could be a lot of things. Anything from an out of balance/round wheel, out of balance drive shaft, worn drive shaft u-joints, bad wheel bearings, worn/damaged differential gears or bearings, bad motor mounts, bad transmission mount, bad control arm bushings, worn shocks or a combination of those. The list goes on... It’s hard to diagnose something like that over the internet. I’d start with checking the drive shaft u-joints. They are a common failure point. Good luck...
I change the oil every 5k miles per the factory service manual & owners manual. Your owners manual might have a maintenance schedule in it that you can reference. If not, I'd pick up a factory service manual for your year/model car from your local dealer or ebay. Avoid Chiltes or Haynes manuals. They are the Cliff Notes of manuals and are garbage, IMO. With that said, a very short and incomplete list would be something like: Change engine oil & filter every 5k Grease ball joints, if yours are grease-able, every 5k Check transmission fluid, brake fluid & power steering fluid level every 5k Check serpentine belt for damage or excessive stretch or wear every 5k (replace if needed) Check for looseness in front wheel bearings, tie rods, & ball joints every 5k (replace if needed) Give a general visual inspection around the motor & underneath looking for damaged parts or oil leaks every 5-10k (fix as necessary) Check brake pad thickness every 5k miles (if less than about 1/8" thick they should be replaced). Rotate tires every 10k Change coolant & brake fluid every 2 years or so Change rear diff fluid, transmission fluid, transmissionn filter & fuel filter every 60k miles Hope that helps.
alright, thanks... I'm going to attempt to drain and replace the oil and fuel from my dad's 98 ford mustang that has been sitting in the garage for like 3 years...I'm trying to get it running again in its full glory. If you hve ny tips I'm always open to suggestions.
Oil doesn't go bad over time really. You can safely get it running with the existing oil in it (as long as the oil level is OK). 3 years isn't really that long of a time for it to be sitting really. Once you've got it running then you can start changing things. You don't want to change the oil only to find out you have to do something to get it running that requires you to drain the oil again. I would also replace the fuel filter once you have it running. Good luck.
5W-20 seems too thin to me. Thats the spec oil my Harley takes, for example. Regardless of vehicle or what you read online, use whatever oil is stated in your owners manual for your motor. It is the primary source of truth for any car. Fluid type and capacity may be different for different motors or years or performance packages etc. If you don't have one they are available as pdfs around the interwebs. I found this .pdf for a '98 Mustang like the one in this video. Check out page 133 & 180 where it states to use 5W-30, not 5W-20, and page 178 where it shows the amount of oil you need (5 quartz): www.mustangspecs.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/1998-Mustang-Owners-Manual.pdf Hope that helps., Good luck.
I'd warm the car up for the oil change by driving it to my buddies house and getting the tool back from him/her or to a local auto parts store to pick up a new tool. If that doesn't work, a strap-wrench, or you bare hands. Luckily there is easy access to the filter. Good luck.
My 1998 Ford Mustang 3.8L V6 doesn't have the nut plug but more of a twist cap. I cant really explain it and i cant find a replacement. Do I need a new oil pan?
When you turn the cap does the oil come out of the cap? If so, it could be a “EZ-Drain” plug. Dorman makes one (part # 092005). I haven’t used one since removing a drain plug bolt is pretty “EZ” too. If yours is leaking, or you don’t like it Dorman also makes a replacement OEM bolt (part # 090059). Thanks for watching & commenting.
Transmission has no effect on the motor or it's oil. So changing the motor oil is the same procedure with an automatic or manual transmission. btw, the car in this video is an automatic. Good luck.
All right I drained it will Fedora plug back in change the Builder but I filled it up and ran it it was still full but this morning it's half quart low but there's no leaks
Its a little hard to follow what you are saying. Make sure you added the correct amount of fluid for your motor. IMS, the 3.6L takes 5 quarts of oil when you drain & filter. If you added the correct amount, I would monitor the oil level after a few trips. If it continues to go down you definitely have a leak, or are burning oil in the combustion chamber. Typically the latter is due to leaky valve guide seals leaking oil into the combustion chamber. Good luck.
Honestly, I'm not sure. The label came off of mine years ago. It's a standard size, so you should be able to pick one up at your local auto parts store when you buy the filter. Good luck.
You use amsoil, I use walmart brand 5 qt. gallon jugs for eleven bucks and supertech three dollar filter and my 88 Tbird has 350K miles [all highway miles though] and still runs like new! I did replace the head gasket once it was my fault for driving way too fast for my high mileage 3.8.
Ok, and your point is? No-one really cares what brand oil you or I use. Use whatever oil/filter you want. The important thing is that you change the oil/filter regularly.
@@petrocksgarage I agree, your over the top use of expensive oil and filter tells me you adhere to the fact that oil changes are the best money spent on your car,what air filter brand do you use?
@@lilibethdoherty295, over the top? I'm not sure what you mean by that. This video isn't an ad for Amsoil by any means. With that said, there is definitely a difference in low vs high quality oils. Many studies have proven that. However, I choose not to get involved in discussions about what the "best" oil or filter is because there is no such thing as "best" when it comes to oil or filters as well as many other products. Just like no-one but yourself cares what kind of car you drive, no-one but you cares what type of oil or filter you put in it. Use whatever makes you happy and I'll do the same with my vehicles.
kevin sodano, TH-cam won't let me reply to your comment, so I'll do it here. Yeah, I've heard guys priming the filter however I don't see the point from an engineering point of view. The oil you put into the filter won't get pushed out of the filter, and into the motor, until the oil pump pushes oil into the filter. Oil doesn't get sucked out of the filter by the motor, the oil gets pushed through it by the oil pump. Plus the time it takes for the pump to fill an empty filter and have it start circulating through the motor is fairly insignificant you aren't really saving any time in that regard by priming the filter first. The motor still has a good amount of oil coating its internals when you do a regular oil/filter change, so motor will be fine for the few rotations it takes for the oil pressure to build up and the oil to be forced into & out of the filter and then into the motor. But if priming the filter makes you feel better, go for it. As for tightening the filter down, with the method I show in the video (1/2 to 3/4 turn after the filter gasket touches the filter mount) that is about the same amount of torque as if you did it by hand. My method produces a more accurate and reproducible amount of torque each time. It is also a lot easier for a novice to get the hang of since the amount of torque to apply with my technique doesn't require any hand dexterity, finesse or experience to get right. Not to mention that the amount of torque two different people can apply by hand can be significantly different. With the method I demonstrate, you can still spin the filter off by hand if you like. Give it a try, you might be surprised. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
something1random23, I’m not sure what brand you are using but on the box for the brand I use it doesn’t have any instructions let alone any indication of how many turns. As for why 1/2 to 3/4 that is so that you don’t over tighten it and deform the rubber gasket producing a leak. I’ve been using that metric for years on many different cars without a single leak or problem. 1 to 1-1/4 turns sounds way too high to me.
Pet Rock's Garage I'm not sure about the filters I use now, but when I used Fram filters they always said 1 to 1-1/4. BTW it's not hard to achieve that tightness by hand on this car and the amount you use will likely depend on the how fine the threads are on any given vehicle.
something1random23, I haven’t used a Fram filter in decades but I’ll check one out at my local auto parts store next time I need to make a parts run. Yes, the thread pitch can be different from brand/model to brand/model. However, they are typically fairly course threads. So a 1/2 to 3/4 turn after the rubber gasket comes in contact with the filter mount should be sufficient.
Good question. Cleaning the threads gets any dirt/grime/ick from the old oil off and re-oiling makes the filter spin on easier and be able to remove easier in the future. btw, I wasn't just cleaning the threads. I was cleaning the sealing surface too. Hope that clears things up.
Pet Rock's Garage I changed the oil today, and it would’ve taken me 30 min, if I didn’t drop the oil filter in the oil pan (oil everywhere) 🤦🏼♂️ do you know how to reset the “Service engine soon” light? Thanks!
@@oros9112, you mean the check engine light? If so, it would not be on for a late oil change. If you don't have a scanner, most auto parts stores will check your CEL codes for free (call ahead of course) and find out what triggered the CEL. The scanner can also clear the code(s). Hope that helps.
thank you, i just bought my first car ever a 1999 mustang 77k miles for 750 i feel i got a great deal, i wanna do these oil changes and other stuff myself to get familiar with my car. thank you again
+Sergio Rocha, there are many different oil filter manufacturers and all have different part numbers. Go to our local auto parts store and ask what they have in stock for your ride. I prefer Mobile1 oil filters, but there are other good quality filters too.
it’s also a good idea to run the car for a little while before changing the oil, because the heat will make the oil flow better. just make sure to wear some rubber gloves.
IMO, you can go either way. The same amount will drain out hot, warm or cold. The only real difference is time. Cold fluid will take longer. But use whatever method you prefer. Its your ride.
I prefer synthetic. But it is entirely up to you. Both will do the job just fine. The important part is that the oil is the correct spec for your motor & outside temperature. See your owners manual for more info on that.
High miles isn't always a bad thing. I would take a car that had a lot of highway miles over a car that had less miles but was primarily used to take short trips. It also depends on how well the car was maintained and the overall condition of the car. My wife's '98 mustang has 198k miles on it and still runs great.
+kevin sodano, TH-cam wouldn't let me comment directly to your post before. But it does now. So I've copy/pasted my original reply here: Yeah, I've heard guys priming the filter however I don't see the point from an engineering point of view. The oil you put into the filter won't get pushed out of the filter, and into the motor, until the oil pump pushes oil into the filter. Oil doesn't get sucked out of the filter by the motor, the oil gets pushed through it by the oil pump. Plus the time it takes for the pump to fill an empty filter and have it start circulating through the motor is fairly insignificant you aren't really saving any time in that regard by priming the filter first. The motor still has a good amount of oil coating its internals when you do a regular oil/filter change, so motor will be fine for the few rotations it takes for the oil pressure to build up and the oil to be forced into & out of the filter and then into the motor. But if priming the filter makes you feel better, go for it. As for tightening the filter down, with the method I show in the video (1/2 to 3/4 turn after the filter gasket touches the filter mount) that is about the same amount of torque as if you did it by hand. My method produces a more accurate and reproducible amount of torque each time. It is also a lot easier for a novice to get the hang of since the amount of torque to apply with my technique doesn't require any hand dexterity, finesse or experience to get right. Not to mention that the amount of torque two different people can apply by hand can be significantly different. With the method I demonstrate, you can still spin the filter off by hand if you like. Give it a try, you might be surprised. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
You sure about that? Did you poll everyone in the world? Its pretty common in colder areas. E.g. places that require block-heaters to keep their motor warm when not in use. Aint nobody got time to wait 15mins for a quart of oil to drain out of the bottle.
You don't need to open the oil cap to let the oil out 🤣 the pressure goes through the pcv and to the intake. But you do need to open it to fill it up lol.
Im not sure how the air pressure would go through the PCV considering the PCV valve is closed when the motor is not running. So little to no air is getting through it. And the little amount of vacuum pressure created by the oil exiting the bottom of the motor would not be enough to open the PCV valve. So, ya wanna take back that 🤣 now? Just curious.
Same here, I just bought from an old couple, her husband buy mustang for her in 1999, and I know the couple, her husband just pass away, and selling me for $ 3,200.00, and is only highways mile
I knew a little about doing oil changes but there were some facts I didn't know so thank you for providing important details.
Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Just did my first oil change with
this video as a guide. Thanks a bunch!
That's great! I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
please keep making videos on the mustang
I am. :-)
Thanks a million for this, my dad just got me a 98 mustang and we're gonna change the oil tomorrow. It's my first car and now I know how to change the oil c: (never have before tbh) again, thank you very much for this, i appreciate it :')
gzuz1118, no problem. I’m glad I was able to help. Congrats on the new (to you) ride. Every car owner should know how to change their car’s oil, brakes and rotate the tires, IMO. If you take care of it, it will take care of you. Have fun tomorrow and good luck.
jesusespinozuhh ditto! First oil change for me as well!
I wanted to say thank you for making and posting this video. I'm a 50 year old guy and I know it sounds silly for a guy my age to admit this, but I couldn't find that drain plug for nothin'! :) (Passenger side..., well I'll be da....!") lol
Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out. Your never too old to learn something new. :-)
is it facing the passenger door?
+Pet Rock's Garage is the plug facing the passenger side
You are awesome. You show and explain things perfect. And don't worry about your mistakes on naming things. Thank you for allowing me to make sure I'm going to do it correctly.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great video man. Really nice job of adding tips and things like that here and there, clear and concise directions, and good video editing. 👌
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
i did everything but when i turn the car key to just before there’s a weird buzzing sound that goes away when i hit the pedal? mad confused rn
That sounds really weird. I doubt changing the oil had anything to do with it. I'd have a friend help you find the source of the noise and go from there. Good luck.
Thanks for your help in locating the drain plug. I already replaced the oil filter but couldn't find the drain plug. On my 94 mustang, there isn't a bar underneath the oil pan, should it be a concern or not? Thanks again.
No problem. Glad to be of service. re bar under the oil pan, convertibles have the X-brace to help stiffen the frame that connects the sides of the k-member. Coupes don't need the brace, but it also wouldn't hurt if it did.
getting ready to buy me a 1996 Mustang 3.8 v6 thank you for the video i will fallow for more very helpful
No problem. Glad to be of service, Enjoy your new (to you) ride.
Good video, thanks for making this! It is also a good idea to replace the gasket on your oil drain plug. Also, no need to use the wrench to tighten the oil filter, just "hand tight" is good enough.
Unless the oil drain plug gasket is damaged, and you snug it down well, it won't leak. I have not replaced the one on this vehicle since I took over maintenance on it over a decade ago and it hasn't leaked.
re using a wrench: different people have different hand strengths. So hand tight could be over tight for one person and loose for another. Using a wrench with a specific amount of rotation (1/2 to 3/4 turn) takes the variability & human error out of it. Most people watching my videos are not experienced mechanics (and lack a calibrated torque-hand) and are often doing this job for the first time. So taking the guess work out of the process helps them out a lot.
@@petrocksgarage Those are all great points!
Wonderful job mate really informative and clear
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the tutorial! Nice save by the way.. 4:02
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Yes I agree. Your videos are great. Please keep them coming.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Nice video....thanks for sharing
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it,
DISCULPEN LA PREGUNTA ACABO DE ADQUIRIR UN MUSTANG 98 V6 ESTADAR EN DONDE TIENE LA VALLONETA DE ACEITE?????
El tapón de drenaje de aceite está en el lado del pasajero del motor. En el fondo del cárter de aceite. Espero que ayude y Google tradujo esto correctamente.
Really good video clear and concise. Thanks
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I watched your repairs on your mustang. I have a question about the rear end my car Shake's when excellerating I was wandering if you would know what is making the noise
robert williams, it could be a lot of things. Anything from an out of balance/round wheel, out of balance drive shaft, worn drive shaft u-joints, bad wheel bearings, worn/damaged differential gears or bearings, bad motor mounts, bad transmission mount, bad control arm bushings, worn shocks or a combination of those. The list goes on... It’s hard to diagnose something like that over the internet. I’d start with checking the drive shaft u-joints. They are a common failure point. Good luck...
So is this the basic maintence that we have to do every 4k miles or so?? what else to keep the car running full.. Thanks
I change the oil every 5k miles per the factory service manual & owners manual. Your owners manual might have a maintenance schedule in it that you can reference. If not, I'd pick up a factory service manual for your year/model car from your local dealer or ebay. Avoid Chiltes or Haynes manuals. They are the Cliff Notes of manuals and are garbage, IMO. With that said, a very short and incomplete list would be something like:
Change engine oil & filter every 5k
Grease ball joints, if yours are grease-able, every 5k
Check transmission fluid, brake fluid & power steering fluid level every 5k
Check serpentine belt for damage or excessive stretch or wear every 5k (replace if needed)
Check for looseness in front wheel bearings, tie rods, & ball joints every 5k (replace if needed)
Give a general visual inspection around the motor & underneath looking for damaged parts or oil leaks every 5-10k (fix as necessary)
Check brake pad thickness every 5k miles (if less than about 1/8" thick they should be replaced).
Rotate tires every 10k
Change coolant & brake fluid every 2 years or so
Change rear diff fluid, transmission fluid, transmissionn filter & fuel filter every 60k miles
Hope that helps.
@@petrocksgarage Thank You! I know the basics mostly. I also have a Mechanic Uncle! So I'll hit him up once I get my money next month! :]
@@eddycervantea7882, no problem. Good luck.
Any uses for left over oil? How do you dispose of it?
No real uses for left over oil that I can think of. Contact your local auto parts stores. Most auto-parts stores will take used oil and recycle it.
Thanks for t video🍺, i have a 2000 Mustang 3.8. V6. Great car 🚗 👍👍👍
No problem.
Hey, what is the drain plug next to the oil filter?
You mean the plug on the housing the filter screws into? I am not sure. It is definitely not a drain plug. I would not remove it.
Hey just wondering... is the oil filter that you put back on a new one or the one that you took off before?
Its a new one.
alright, thanks... I'm going to attempt to drain and replace the oil and fuel from my dad's 98 ford mustang that has been sitting in the garage for like 3 years...I'm trying to get it running again in its full glory. If you hve ny tips I'm always open to suggestions.
Oil doesn't go bad over time really. You can safely get it running with the existing oil in it (as long as the oil level is OK). 3 years isn't really that long of a time for it to be sitting really. Once you've got it running then you can start changing things. You don't want to change the oil only to find out you have to do something to get it running that requires you to drain the oil again. I would also replace the fuel filter once you have it running. Good luck.
Alright! Thanks for all your help!
No problem.
Great tips,great video
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I thought you were supposed to use 5W-20 oil. I’m just confused because I need to know before I do my oil change soon
5W-20 seems too thin to me. Thats the spec oil my Harley takes, for example. Regardless of vehicle or what you read online, use whatever oil is stated in your owners manual for your motor. It is the primary source of truth for any car. Fluid type and capacity may be different for different motors or years or performance packages etc. If you don't have one they are available as pdfs around the interwebs. I found this .pdf for a '98 Mustang like the one in this video. Check out page 133 & 180 where it states to use 5W-30, not 5W-20, and page 178 where it shows the amount of oil you need (5 quartz): www.mustangspecs.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/1998-Mustang-Owners-Manual.pdf
Hope that helps., Good luck.
From México, Great job!!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
What can be used to remove the oil filter if a buddy hasn't returned your tool??
I'd warm the car up for the oil change by driving it to my buddies house and getting the tool back from him/her or to a local auto parts store to pick up a new tool. If that doesn't work, a strap-wrench, or you bare hands. Luckily there is easy access to the filter. Good luck.
My 1998 Ford Mustang 3.8L V6 doesn't have the nut plug but more of a twist cap. I cant really explain it and i cant find a replacement. Do I need a new oil pan?
When you turn the cap does the oil come out of the cap? If so, it could be a “EZ-Drain” plug. Dorman makes one (part # 092005). I haven’t used one since removing a drain plug bolt is pretty “EZ” too. If yours is leaking, or you don’t like it Dorman also makes a replacement OEM bolt (part # 090059). Thanks for watching & commenting.
Pet Rock's Garage Thanks a lot
Practical and to the point Thank You!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great video I got a 2003 v6 mustang
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video is helping you out.
Is it same with automatic transmission?
Transmission has no effect on the motor or it's oil. So changing the motor oil is the same procedure with an automatic or manual transmission. btw, the car in this video is an automatic. Good luck.
hey which way do i turn the drain plug to come off?
Like most bolts it's righty tighty, lefty loosey...
Minipoof718 for anyone else wondering the drain plugs will always loose counterclockwise
Counter clock wise
All right I drained it will Fedora plug back in change the Builder but I filled it up and ran it it was still full but this morning it's half quart low but there's no leaks
Its a little hard to follow what you are saying. Make sure you added the correct amount of fluid for your motor. IMS, the 3.6L takes 5 quarts of oil when you drain & filter. If you added the correct amount, I would monitor the oil level after a few trips. If it continues to go down you definitely have a leak, or are burning oil in the combustion chamber. Typically the latter is due to leaky valve guide seals leaking oil into the combustion chamber. Good luck.
what size filter wrench?
Honestly, I'm not sure. The label came off of mine years ago. It's a standard size, so you should be able to pick one up at your local auto parts store when you buy the filter. Good luck.
You use amsoil, I use walmart brand 5 qt. gallon jugs for eleven bucks and supertech three dollar filter and my 88 Tbird has 350K miles [all highway miles though] and still runs like new! I did replace the head gasket once it was my fault for driving way too fast for my high mileage 3.8.
Ok, and your point is? No-one really cares what brand oil you or I use. Use whatever oil/filter you want. The important thing is that you change the oil/filter regularly.
@@petrocksgarage I agree, your over the top use of expensive oil and filter tells me you adhere to the fact that oil changes are the best money spent on your car,what air filter brand do you use?
@@lilibethdoherty295, over the top? I'm not sure what you mean by that. This video isn't an ad for Amsoil by any means. With that said, there is definitely a difference in low vs high quality oils. Many studies have proven that. However, I choose not to get involved in discussions about what the "best" oil or filter is because there is no such thing as "best" when it comes to oil or filters as well as many other products. Just like no-one but yourself cares what kind of car you drive, no-one but you cares what type of oil or filter you put in it. Use whatever makes you happy and I'll do the same with my vehicles.
kevin sodano, TH-cam won't let me reply to your comment, so I'll do it here. Yeah, I've heard guys priming the filter however I don't see the point from an engineering point of view. The oil you put into the filter won't get pushed out of the filter, and into the motor, until the oil pump pushes oil into the filter. Oil doesn't get sucked out of the filter by the motor, the oil gets pushed through it by the oil pump. Plus the time it takes for the pump to fill an empty filter and have it start circulating through the motor is fairly insignificant you aren't really saving any time in that regard by priming the filter first. The motor still has a good amount of oil coating its internals when you do a regular oil/filter change, so motor will be fine for the few rotations it takes for the oil pressure to build up and the oil to be forced into & out of the filter and then into the motor. But if priming the filter makes you feel better, go for it.
As for tightening the filter down, with the method I show in the video (1/2 to 3/4 turn after the filter gasket touches the filter mount) that is about the same amount of torque as if you did it by hand. My method produces a more accurate and reproducible amount of torque each time. It is also a lot easier for a novice to get the hang of since the amount of torque to apply with my technique doesn't require any hand dexterity, finesse or experience to get right. Not to mention that the amount of torque two different people can apply by hand can be significantly different. With the method I demonstrate, you can still spin the filter off by hand if you like. Give it a try, you might be surprised.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Pet Rock's Garage Why do you recommend a 1/2 to 3/4 turn while it says 1 to 1-1/4 turn on the filter box?
something1random23, I’m not sure what brand you are using but on the box for the brand I use it doesn’t have any instructions let alone any indication of how many turns. As for why 1/2 to 3/4 that is so that you don’t over tighten it and deform the rubber gasket producing a leak. I’ve been using that metric for years on many different cars without a single leak or problem. 1 to 1-1/4 turns sounds way too high to me.
Pet Rock's Garage I'm not sure about the filters I use now, but when I used Fram filters they always said 1 to 1-1/4. BTW it's not hard to achieve that tightness by hand on this car and the amount you use will likely depend on the how fine the threads are on any given vehicle.
something1random23, I haven’t used a Fram filter in decades but I’ll check one out at my local auto parts store next time I need to make a parts run. Yes, the thread pitch can be different from brand/model to brand/model. However, they are typically fairly course threads. So a 1/2 to 3/4 turn after the rubber gasket comes in contact with the filter mount should be sufficient.
why clean the filter threads, then re-oil 30 seconds later?
Good question. Cleaning the threads gets any dirt/grime/ick from the old oil off and re-oiling makes the filter spin on easier and be able to remove easier in the future. btw, I wasn't just cleaning the threads. I was cleaning the sealing surface too. Hope that clears things up.
Nice video 👍🏻 I have a 04 mustang with 77k miles in it even though no ones asked 🤣
15 yrs old and only 77k miles? Its barely broken in! Get that thing out and DRIVE!!! 😂
Lol hell yea 01 with 76k
great video .
thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Thanks, it was very helpful!
No problem. Glad to be of service.
Pet Rock's Garage I changed the oil today, and it would’ve taken me 30 min, if I didn’t drop the oil filter in the oil pan (oil everywhere) 🤦🏼♂️ do you know how to reset the “Service engine soon” light? Thanks!
@@oros9112, you mean the check engine light? If so, it would not be on for a late oil change. If you don't have a scanner, most auto parts stores will check your CEL codes for free (call ahead of course) and find out what triggered the CEL. The scanner can also clear the code(s). Hope that helps.
Pet Rock's Garage yes, thank you 👍🏼
You never showed us were the drain plug is exactly
Seems pretty clear to me and others. But its underneath the motor on the passenger side.
What type of oil did you used for this car?
The brand does not really matter. What matters is the grade/weight of the oil. 5W-30
Can I 5w30 synthetic oil?
Good job
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
thank you, i just bought my first car ever a 1999 mustang 77k miles for 750 i feel i got a great deal, i wanna do these oil changes and other stuff myself to get familiar with my car. thank you again
Thanks a lot. Only 77k miles? That car is barely broken in. :-) Enjoy the new (to you) ride. Take care of it and it will take care of you.
Thank you! very helpful..
No problem. Glad to be of service.
Thanks a lot!
No problem.
what filter do I need?
+Sergio Rocha, there are many different oil filter manufacturers and all have different part numbers. Go to our local auto parts store and ask what they have in stock for your ride. I prefer Mobile1 oil filters, but there are other good quality filters too.
Thank you, your video helped me out a lot.
Best Regards
+Sergio Rocha, I'm glad. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
it’s also a good idea to run the car for a little while before changing the oil, because the heat will make the oil flow better. just make sure to wear some rubber gloves.
IMO, you can go either way. The same amount will drain out hot, warm or cold. The only real difference is time. Cold fluid will take longer. But use whatever method you prefer. Its your ride.
Conventional or synthetic?
I prefer synthetic. But it is entirely up to you. Both will do the job just fine. The important part is that the oil is the correct spec for your motor & outside temperature. See your owners manual for more info on that.
How do you feel about a 00' mustang with 290k miles on it? Is that bad
High miles isn't always a bad thing. I would take a car that had a lot of highway miles over a car that had less miles but was primarily used to take short trips. It also depends on how well the car was maintained and the overall condition of the car. My wife's '98 mustang has 198k miles on it and still runs great.
My 98 3.8 has 252 K miles and is still running strong
Hey Pete Rock can come do something to Mustang 2000
I'm don't really understand what you are saying. If you are asking if I can come fix your car, sorry I can't.
My thoughts....You should always prime your filter and only tighten filter as much as you can by hand not with a wrench. Just sayin
+kevin sodano, TH-cam wouldn't let me comment directly to your post before. But it does now. So I've copy/pasted my original reply here: Yeah, I've heard guys priming the filter however I don't see the point from an engineering point of view. The oil you put into the filter won't get pushed out of the filter, and into the motor, until the oil pump pushes oil into the filter. Oil doesn't get sucked out of the filter by the motor, the oil gets pushed through it by the oil pump. Plus the time it takes for the pump to fill an empty filter and have it start circulating through the motor is fairly insignificant you aren't really saving any time in that regard by priming the filter first. The motor still has a good amount of oil coating its internals when you do a regular oil/filter change, so motor will be fine for the few rotations it takes for the oil pressure to build up and the oil to be forced into & out of the filter and then into the motor. But if priming the filter makes you feel better, go for it.
As for tightening the filter down, with the method I show in the video (1/2 to 3/4 turn after the filter gasket touches the filter mount) that is about the same amount of torque as if you did it by hand. My method produces a more accurate and reproducible amount of torque each time. It is also a lot easier for a novice to get the hang of since the amount of torque to apply with my technique doesn't require any hand dexterity, finesse or experience to get right. Not to mention that the amount of torque two different people can apply by hand can be significantly different. With the method I demonstrate, you can still spin the filter off by hand if you like. Give it a try, you might be surprised.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
i agree and if you dont have an oil filter wrench stab the fucker with a flat head and take it off like that :)
Do you have a transmission fluid Change video?
Not yet, sorry. It is something I need to do on this car soon though.
thank you sir
No problem.
how about sparkplug
Sorry, I don't have one yet. But I will in about 10k miles. Thanks...
Ty
robert williams, np
now your wife has to give you an oil change
... on date nights.
Aint nobody tryng to put oil in the oven lmao 🤣
You sure about that? Did you poll everyone in the world? Its pretty common in colder areas. E.g. places that require block-heaters to keep their motor warm when not in use. Aint nobody got time to wait 15mins for a quart of oil to drain out of the bottle.
You don't need to open the oil cap to let the oil out 🤣 the pressure goes through the pcv and to the intake. But you do need to open it to fill it up lol.
Im not sure how the air pressure would go through the PCV considering the PCV valve is closed when the motor is not running. So little to no air is getting through it. And the little amount of vacuum pressure created by the oil exiting the bottom of the motor would not be enough to open the PCV valve. So, ya wanna take back that 🤣 now? Just curious.
christ 160k is low mileage? i guess lmfao i just bought mine and it has 80k for a 2000
That was 4 years ago. Its over 205k now. 80k? Thats barely broken in. :-)
@@petrocksgarage My 2000 V6 just hit 215k!
Will need have someone come do that to Mustang ur number
I don't understand.
I got 03 3.8 with 55,000..
Wow!!! That thing is barely broken in.
Same here, I just bought from an old couple, her husband buy mustang for her in 1999, and I know the couple, her husband just pass away, and selling me for $ 3,200.00, and is only highways mile
@@peterpham5245, that's a pretty good deal. My wife's '98 mustang just rolled 221k and still running strong.
There's no sound!
It works fine for me. I haven't seen any other comments about the sound either.