How To Flush & Bleed Power Steering Fluid -- Ford Mustang ('79 - '04)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ธ.ค. 2020
- This is a step by step instructional video on how to flush the power steering system on a '98 Ford Mustang. While I'm working on a '98 3.8L Ford Mustang, this video applies to all '79 through '04 Ford Mustangs. Essentially all Fox Body and SN95 Mustangs with V6 & V8 motors. Engine model does not matter.
I show many tips & tricks as well as the simple hand tools needed to make this job quick, easy & painless. No special tools or parts are needed. The actual labor part of this job takes about an hour.
My "'98 Ford Mustang 3.8L Repair & Maintenance" Playlist:
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The information in this video is for educational purposes only. Pet Rock assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use the information in this video at your own risk. Pet Rock recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Pet Rock. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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You are an amazing instructor. Thank you so much for making this video and with such awesome explanations.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Getting ready to do this on my foxbody, very helpful video!
Good luck!
Gonna do it on my 87 today
Thanks for this great upload!! 🦊🤍
Thanks a lot. Appreciate it.
Great video man🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Two thumbs up
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great video, easy to follow and it made flushing and adding new fluid to my 84 mustang easy. Great job!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great video thank you!
Can you comment on the loud PS grinding noise coming from a 2007 Taurus 3.0 with 89k miles. It seems like it could be low on PS fluid but it's not. I'm wondering if going through this flush process and adding a more viscous fluid (like Lucas oil) would help the noise. it pretty obnoxious. - Tks for any advice😁
It could be you have air in the system. Air will cause the pump to get noisey and sound like a grinding or clicking. A flush & bleed may help with this. If it doesn't work, then I would guess that the pump is bad. It happens. They don't last forever. I've replaced the pump on the car in this video at least 3 times in the past 15 years. Good luck.
Actually, a quick test you could do is take the serpentine belt off and spin the pump pulley by hand like I show in the video. Maybe with a little more speed. If it makes a bunch of noise then the pump is bad. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Hey so good news! I set up the car today and tried the flush process. I sped things up a little by disconnecting the coil pack so the engine couldn't fire off. Then I sucked all the old fluid out using the turkey baster and refilled it with new ATF. Had my son crank the engine 5 seconds at a time while I watched the level in the pump go down and kept refilling it. We let the starter cool down a few minutes after every 4-5 tries. It took a little less than 2 quarts to get most of the old fluid out with the turning the rack left/right a few times.
Then we reconnected the line and refilled the system, again cranking the engine until I didn't see any more bubbles coming up on the pump resevior. I added about 12 oz. Of the Lucas oil pwr. steering stop leak that was super warmed in boiled water from microwave (helped it blend well with the Mercon ATF right away). Then took a nice long test drive.
Man I have to tell you the noise is TOTALLY GONE now and the steering feels smooth & much better. I think there must have been some air in the system too because it feels so great right now. I don't think the pump was actually bad yet. I'm highly impressed, thanks again for the great tutorial and advice 🤓👍👍 This was amazing 😁👌
@@tomstamatakos8027 Glad to hear you got it sorted out. I typically don't recommend bumping the motor like that (I say so a couple times in the video) because it can easily drain the reservoir. But if you are careful, which it sounds like you were, it does speed up the process a lot.
I would definitely not have used the stop leak stuff though. They often cause more problems then they solve. Gumming up the system, messing with seals and clogging up the lines like cholesterol in your veins. But it sounds like you got lucky and it didn't cause any additional problems. If there was a leak it will likely come back eventually. The bad seal causing the leak is still bad and will just get worse. I'd keep an eye on it. Good luck.
so i attempted this the other day after replacing pump. made no noise while off the ground. but after i let run a bit and turned wheels off ground i dropped car, then turned wheels and was very loud. did i skip a step or is something else wrong?
It means there is still air in the system. When the wheels are on the ground the pump has to work harder to build enough pressure to move the wheels. So its going to make more noise until the air is out. Its not a quick process and takes patience. Good luck.
I was wondering , maybe I didn't do as much as was necessary but I'm feeling like i need to do it with a vacuum pump i cant seem to stop the whine on my 01 3.8 v6 mustang it sounds like a supercharger any tips I'd appreciate it because the vacuum adapters for these pumps are expensive
There really isn't anywhere to attach a vacuum pump. You might be able to rig up something to stick in the reservoir opening, but I haven't tried that. If the vacuum pump still doesn't work, I'd consider replacing the pump. Maybe a new one instead of remanufactured. I've gotten some bad remans before. Good luck.
Hmmm... your comment is different now compared to when I replied. Anyway, yes, the vacuum adapters are expensive. I think Mitivac makes a cone style adapter that might work, but I haven't tried. I also vaguely remember seeing a tutorial online somewhere where someone took the reservoir cap (or was it the plug used to ship these pumps?), drilled a hole in it and attached a barbed end to it so he could attach a pump. I also haven't tried it, but in theory it might work if you seal up the barbed end really well.
But if it sounds that loud, and hasn't changed after a couple day of driving, I would consider replacing the pump. Also, if there are any leaks in the system, make sure to fix those otherwise you'll never get it to quiet down. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage I did that to my factory pump cap I added the barbed fitting on it but the actual cap isnt sealing so that went out the window
@@petrocksgarage well thanks for the reply I'll try to get all the air out by hand to see if that works thanks again
@@Dannymclovin, good luck. If you put the alien key in a drill or similar it would speed things up a bunch. Don't forget to bleed it with the wheel turned full to both sides. Good luck.
When letting the hose go until it stops dripping is the reservoir supposed to go completely empty?
Which drip are you referring to?
@@petrocksgarage when first disconnecting the return line from the rack. Now that I've done it, it did eventually stop.
Thanks for the video!
I am wondering,what brand and what is the name of the fluid you used?
This vehicle takes ATF+4 for its power steering fluid. The brand doesn't really matter. Just make sure it's the correct fluid for your vehicle. Some take ATF and some take regular power steering fluid. Even different years of the same vehicle can take different types. The type for yours should be listed in your owners manual. Good luck.
Yooo how did you get that manifold to fit on there?
Which manifold?
Couldn’t I have put jack stands under front wheels and just turn wheel lock to lock and it would pump the fluid out of the return line same way?
It would get most of the fluid out, but not all of it. It wouldn't get the fluid in the lines or in the area of the cylinder that the piston doesn't travel to (which is a lot of fluid, btw). You'd also run the risk of draining the reservoir too quickly and getting air in the system. Hope that helps.
@@petrocksgarage what do you do if you get too much air in the system
@@SMOER-fw2kn, you keep bleeding the system until all the air is out. Its the same procedure if the system is completely full of air, or only a small amount.
If you have ABS, and got air into the ABS module (which is hard to do, but not uncommon), then you might need to either buy a scan tool that can do an ABS module bleed, or take it to a shop to do it for you. Good luck.
Mine Is whining after swapping my engine and using the racing ac delete bracket. Whining and no powersteering what so ever could the air being trapped cause zero ps?
I assume it did not whine before the engine swap? If so, then yes it sounds like there is a bunch of air in the lines. I'd also check the rack to make sure none of the hard or soft hoses got pinched during the swap. This includes, but not limited to, the power steering cooler lines, and the hard lines that criss cross the rack etc. Good luck.
@Pet Rock's Garage I found the culprit. Pressure valve was put in backwards. Still whines A little but powersteering works now
@@craigvoclain1406, thats great! I'm glad you figured it out.
How many quarts are needed to perform the flush? My car is a 2002 Ford Mustang V6 and I'm assuming it would be same amount.
There is no set amount like an oil change. It takes as much fluid as it takes until clear fluid comes out all four calipers. 1 quart minimum, 2 quarts maximum.
@@petrocksgarage thank you
Auto pressure hose IS NOT a couple cents per foot. More like 5 bucks or more per foot. (off a spool)
Prices vary depending on where you live and where you buy it from. They also have changed since I recorded this video. Either way, I just bought some recently for about $2/foot from AutoZone. Having them cut off a length of bulk hose is cheaper than the pre-cut hose.
@@petrocksgarage Helpful video. Thank you. I was surprised when I heard pennies per foot. I was at Pep Boys yesterday...18 inches...9 dollars. (from a spool)
@@krisedwards1003, Thanks. Yes, prices change over time & vary with geography & company. Thats capitalism for you.
Couple cents per foot... LOL try $10.00 foot now thanks Biden! LOL
not sure where you are looking, but its about $2/foot at my local autozone. even the braided hose is only $6/foot. Either way, no politician can control what price an independent company sets on a product. Anyone who says otherwise doesn't understand economics and the law of supply & demand. Just sayin'...
AutoZone in my state was $1.50 per foot a few months ago I needed 3 feet and got 10 for the future. It was fuel line too not the cheaper stuff that degrades.