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Where do yoy get the shields from?

Etsy has some excellent proxy miniatures too.

Don't you mean "... playing BY yourself"?

stuff like this should get waaasy more attention! I love the rules so far and looking forward to test it soon! thx for the vid! keep this content flowing!

Great first video! 😊

Do you reuse the sponges or not so much?

The decision to use oils is a bad one. Long long drying times, the need for gloss varnishes, the messy clean off process and the need for spirits with the paints. And if you thought GW was pricey, try oils. My point is, use of oils is not all sweetness and roses. It is a choice over the washes and contrasts of GW and their competitors. It is not the be all and end all of paints and destroys skills in application of shades, such as panel lining. The choice is yours and you shouldn't "HAVE" to do anything.

You don't BUY nurglings....you pay a slight adoption fee... made payable to James A Workshop in the amount of 3 years income, your personal hygiene, and one human kidney. Preferably the right.

what are you using to thin out the acrylic ink? I am going to try this recipe tomorrow, thanks for making this!

3:28 you have my attention, really loving the more heavy metal fantasy these are, I just got a filament printer so im not sure if it is suited for these kind of models but pretty tempted to try it anyway.

Rangers of Shadow Deep is an excellent solo/coop game

How do you make medium? You mix medium with medium.

magnus is a good boy, nothing wrong!!!

THE DOOMED!@

Commenting from the future, where i see all through the power of the Warp: Magnus did nothing wrong.

Has anyone tried this stuff for wet blending and volumetrics?

In your opinion, which of these solo games will best work with the original 1st edition Rogue Trader 40k core book? Not the models, or rules per say, but the stat lines and equipment?

That’s a blade guard veteran

Oil paints are way better than acrylic washes. They are also better to use on larger models for the whole painting process.

1 in a million

Has anyone tried the artists' versions of this, and how do they compare, if so? Winsor and Newton's slow-drying acrylic medium comes to mind, along with other paint companies directed more toward artists like Liquitex, Golden, etc.

if my friend and i new entry to mcp should we bought 1 new core set and 1 old core set to play?

I’m just getting back into the hobby and this is 100% the future. From the streamlined alternating activation ruleset, to the consumer friendly attitude towards minis, this is just amazing all around.

Mörk borg is Swedish and translates roughly to dark castle. Mörk: dark, darkness, sinister or evil depending on context. Borg is just a castle/medival fortress. I would also say the way it's worded like that, mörk borg is kind of a comical phrase. If you wanted to make it sound really dark and sinister you would not write it like that. It's a lil goofy, like the setting itself.

Failed aspirants can become chapter serfs in many chapters and heretics are usually just tortured and killed outright

Did you basecoat in acrylic?

Loved it! Still waiting for Turn 2.

Love that chain bayonet conversion.

I’d been vaguely looking at warhammer for … jeez. Decades probably? But the price of the models and the storage required and all the craft stuff besides… I just never had space for any of it. I play magic the gathering but only legacy formats with SEVERELY budget decks. I couldn’t imagine spending $400-700 on army, all the effort to pose paint and design and get invested only for the rules update to totally negate the army. I found OPR only recently (last few weeks) but it’s given me a whole new opportunity with my kids.

Just tried both brands recently (Vallejo sand & pro coarse gray), i think I prefer monument hobbies as they are easier to find (Vallejo also behaved a bit strange when I put a shade on it) though I will recommend the GW terrain tool as it is great for this stuff & saves your brushes.

Yellow was tricky for me getting back into the hobby, finally got to just taking any primed black minis and automatically just painting those lighter areas (yellow, skin, bone) with a medium brown then sand then the lighter color. My vote for space marine chapters: Blood ravens Many black tshirts are also not black inked, use the black tshirt long enough to see it turn dark red or green.

Instead of using odourless paint thinner (that still cooks your brain but you just cant smell it) If you mix the paint with Linseed or Walnut oil - It'll be a heap less fumy as they're non-toxic.

marvel sadnest protocol XD, u got me. I had given up in miniature games and start playing just solo boardgames after seen my legion box unopen for 2 years. Recently y step upon 5 parsecs son i been searching for more solo miniature games. appreciate the list.

So what's the written recipe in drops?

Great video buddy. Any changes to your recipe 2 years on? :)

I was a fan of second edition. Except large quantity of files it was great. I hate races and enemy lists in 3rd. Redooing races is ok, but full enemy lists... is a bit too much

Thank you for this One!

I wonder if it's just a combined flow improver and retarder? You can get both of those from liquitex for cheap.

Less music please, its hard to hear you at all

Big E fucked up and then took it out on Magnus bro, get your facts straight

Better THAN 40K!

Very good list, saludos desde Mex

I really liked the ww2 look of another version of these figures, they were basically the same but they had outhouse gas masks and goggles either on their helmets or on their face, speaking of their helmets hey were my fav part, they looked like ww2 German Fallschirmjäger helmets. This imperial guard unit is defenitly my 2nd favourite, my fav being the Chadians.

I couldn't see it, but you don't seem to go into detail about the issues regarding synthetics and whether or not these brushes avoid those? Ie. curling/bending/overall quality over time...

Can I use different oil paints for different effects?

Magnus did nothing wrong

tI LOVED using oil-washes a couple years ago to paint with and just generally-Play! with effects, but it was a hot-mess. I used oil-washes on all my generic Frostgrave warband s, then I invested heavy into Battletech Kickstarters,...I am scared of doing too much with mechs from Battletech, then Now,...theres NEWSH! lol Wish me lLuck Bro!

Very helpful

Есть ещё рейнджеры глубокой тени и запретный псалом.

Just celebrated my 55th birthday, and my wonderful wife gifted me a few expansion packs (primarily Spider-Foes), including the new affiliation pack, which has reignited my interest in the game. Decided to see if I could find any packs on special, and ended up buying four expansions for a total of $110 AUD*, and the Black Order Affiliation for $50.00 AUD (RRP $115.00 AUD). Given expansions cost between $39.00 AUD, to well over $100 AUD, I am very happy with my purchases…😁 Oh, in case you were wondering, the four expansions were “Nick Fury Sr. & the Howling Commandos” (RRP $74.95), “Black Swan & Supergiant” (RRP $64.95 ), “Red Skull and Hydra Troops” (RRP $ 84.95), and “Baron von Strucker and Arnim Zola (RRP $ 89.95)”. This comes to $314.80, and they were on sale for a combined total of $110.00, which is, what, 65% off RRP? So you can find expansions at fantastic prices, with a bit of google-fu. Cheers, * I love almost everything about Australia, except having to pay through the nose (and occasionally adding in an arm, leg, or kidney) for games and miniatures. It’s one of the reasons I got out of GW games, and into 3D printing in the first place, but I digress. Here are some price comparisons for MCP in US and AUD: . Earth’s Mightiest Core Set - RRP: USD $149.99/ AUD $284.99; . Star Lord Expansion - RRP: USD $24.95/ AUD $47.99; . Sanctum Sanctorum - RRP: USD $79.95/ AUD $134.99; and . Rejuvenation Chamber Ultimate Encounter - RRP USD $124.99/ AUD $234.99.