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Thanks!

Pounce?

Thanks, Jeremy. These were the first project with mine as well.

Thank you, and you're welcome!

Thanks. Yeah, making a hole and gluing them in would've been better, but I'll just use these 2 for displays, and make others to sell with a screw, like the top.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking great idea!

Lol. I was wondering if anyone would mention that. I make lamps out of those bottles. I should probably do a video on them.

@maverickdesignswoodworking yes please do I uhhh, possibly have access to empty bottle myself

Thanks!

That's a good idea about the jig. I'll see what I can come up with for one.

Thanks, I'll try it. .

@@maverickdesignswoodworking you're welcome, just adds that stem lean , I'd say anywhere between a 20° and 22.5° angle.

You could use any type of wood. I wouldn't use anything pressure treated though. Pine would be fine, it would definitely be stronger, but more expensive. Maybe 1/2" plywood? You'd just have to be careful not to burn through or bubble up the top veneer. I find it incredible though that there are no fence pickets at any big box store. We have several types at all the stores here in California.

@@maverickdesignswoodworkingThanks

Hmmm. Off the top of my head, I'd say add some little eyelets to each corner of the base and run fishing line or twine or something through them to a single point at the top to hang from. Otherwise you'd have to redesign the whole thing to have the top permanently attached, and then using a hinge and catch, or maybe magnets so that the base could be opened/removed. You could also dado or half slot the bottom of the sides of the box and the base so that they slide together and you can remove the base that way. Just a couple ideas off the top of my head.

Really? I didn't know that. That would be very helpful. I'll look into it. Thanks!

​@@maverickdesignswoodworkinghey friend absolutely nice video very helpful..a question ❓ xan you tellme where did you BOUGHT the patterns for the faces ,, if you can.

@emmanuellevargas7021 Etsy. There is a link to the ones I got in the description, but there are a lot of other choices for similar prices too.

Love these projects!

Thanks, Donna!

I think so. I'll paste it here and put it in the description. This is the one I got, but there are a lot of them there. www.etsy.com/listing/1068596566/pumpkin-face-x100-bundle Keep in mind though, that I drew out these newer ones myself-- they aren't in those files, except for the vampire face. That one I took elements from a couple different faces and put them together.

@@maverickdesignswoodworkingThanks so much!😊

Yes any wood will work, it's just much cheaper to get fence pickets generally. There are a bunch of people selling those files on Etsy for just a couple dollars. That's where I got mine.

Home depot has them- most pine are pickets are treated

Thanks. You could use either, I suppose, but pins are headless which makes a smaller hole, but because cedar is so soft and this wood so thin, my concern is that they would not hold it together as well as brad nails. You'd also have to play around with your air pressure (or depth on a battery one) so the pin doesn't push all or most of the way through the top piece. And to tell the truth, I didn't have a pin nailer yet when I made the first video, so using the brad nailer was a necessity. I prefer air over battery because the battery ones are so big and heavy. The air tools just feel more elegant to me, for lack of a better word.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking Thanks for a great response. So as a first tool you’d say a brad nailer?

@@maverickdesignswoodworking Thanks so much. I’ll be trying this project. I appreciate the advice so much! Bob

Yeah, it's much more versatile. The pin nailer is more for finish molding and stuff like that.

You're absolutely welcome!

Thanks!

It's about 20" wide, 27" deep, and 34" tall without anything on it.

Some people do them with router templates too, but that just seems like a lot more work to me.

I usually sell them for 20 each or 3 for 50. The stain is minwax from Lowes. I strongly recommend the solid stain over the semi transparent for reasons I went over in my two flag staining videos. These colors are Fiesta Orange, hunter green, pure white, and true black.

Lol. You gotta do what you gotta do! That top is pretty beat up. I've been meaning to replace it with a sheet of black melamine for a while, I just haven't gotten around to it yet.

Already did it! Watch the first video. This is an update to that one.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking 🤦🏻‍♂️ My bad bro, I do need to go back and watch it. I did really enjoy the tips on the Brad nails. I never really thought about which way I put them in before, but it makes so much sense! Thanks!

Thanks!

Thank you, I will!

Thanks, Kat!

Thanks. Will do.

Thank you!

Thanks Scott. Yeah, between my day job and trying to keep up with orders, I've had a hard time finding time to make videos. Hopefully it will get better.

Thanks. I usually sell them for 20 each or 3 for 50, but it will greatly depend on your local market.

Thanks, Robert!

Thanks, David!

These are all minwax stains from Lowes. In the video I'm using the semi transparent tint base, but only because I already had it and don't want to waste it. I strongly recommend you use the minwax solid tint base. Go check out my 2 videos on staining American flags to see why. The colors I'm using are hunter green, true black, and pure white.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking Thanks

Thanks Darrell! I'll actually be posting a follow up to this video with some new designs for this year, and detailed instructions on how to avoid and fix brad nail blowouts. It should be up in the next 30 minutes or so.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking Thank you. I'm looking forward to watching and learning from it.

Thanks! Yeah, that one came out nice. I'm currently editing an update video to this one with some cool new designs. Should be out in the next day or two.

Thanks, Darrell, and welcome!

@@maverickdesignswoodworking Thank you.

Thanks! I've got an update coming out with some new cool designs, hopefully in a few days.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking I'm looking forward to seeing all that you do. Thanks

I intentionally did them this way because the templates were so wide and I wanted some edging and reinforcement on the sides where some are very thin.

It's funny you mention that. I'm currently working on an update video to this one with some new designs, and my wife threw away my hand drawn templates thinking they were something the kids were doing, so I was digging them out of the trash this morning, lol. Because of that, that's exactly what I'm doing with the new ones.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking lol.

Thanks, John. I'm working on an update to this video now with some new and improved designs. Hoping to get it out by the weekend.

I've been selling them 20 each or 3 for 50, but it will depend on your local market.

Thanks, Jason. Working on an update video with some new designs right now!

Thanks for the comment, but that's actually not correct. Brad nails are thinner on one side than the other, kind of like a 2x4, and that thin side is oriented so that it comes out of the gun much more likely to bend to the left or right of the gun, as opposed to along the same direction (forward or back). Of course, things like wood grain direction and knots will affect things, but in general, you should nail perpendicular to the board you're driving into. That way, if the nail flexes left or right of the gun, it's far less likely to come out the side of the bottom board because it would need to flex forward or back along the thicker profile to do so. I've thought about making a video about this, but haven't because both Brad Rodriguez at Fix this Build That and the Honest Carpenter have already done comprehensive videos on it. Maybe I'll do one anyway, or maybe I'll mention it in the follow up video I'm working on to this one right now.

Thanks, Bill. I hope to put out an update video in next few days with some new designs too.

20 each or 3 for 50. But that's really going to depend on your market.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking That's what I had in mind. thanks! I live in Az

That's the Microjig Grr-Ripper Pushblock. It's awesome. In fact, I have a couple of them. I added an Amazon affiliate link to it in the video description for you.

Thanks Andrew! I'm going to put out an update video soon on some new designs for these.

Glad you liked it!

Thank you!

You mean the formula?

I just checked. It's 4.5 inches, about .5 less than the fence, but not by any specific design. It was just an offcut piece of 1/2" plywood I had in my scrap bin at the time that was around the right size.

@@maverickdesignswoodworking thanks for the quick reply. I appreciate the help