Thanks! I think most people don't stick around long enough to get to the end of the video to see it. I've added bloopers at the end of a couple of other videos and no one has ever mentioned it.
Good video. Suggestion for the lid to save some time…instead of trying to “trim to fit” the short sides, do the same thing you do with the long sides. Leave some extra length on the short sides, attach them to the lid BEFORE the long sides and cut them flush to the lid with the miter saw, then continue doing the same thing with the long sides that you’re already doing.
Thanks! Yeah, that one came out nice. I'm currently editing an update video to this one with some cool new designs. Should be out in the next day or two.
Honestly, it doesn't really matter when it's dark out, all you can see is the light. It would only make a difference without the light in the daylight. Watch the very end end of the video when I show them in the dark, if you haven't seen it already.
When scrolling there are 2 main options. Wrap the template and board in clear packaging tape. It helps lube the blade. Alternatively spray adhesive on just 1 surface. If going that route and ya have trouble removing the template remnants, mineral spirits will dissolve it after a quick little misting. Twomajor upgrades for the dewalt scroll saw is a good light and I love using a variable speed foot pedal. Many ppl use a pedal that are deadman switches or just simple on and off. Great job!
@@dgperforms1 an easy way to transfer the patern into the wood is using (Carbon paper )..it is my prefer way for the scroll saw..no glue no paper no nothing just what you need printed on the wood can not get any easier than that ...
better tip, buy cheap shelf paper, cut to fit, peel and stick, then use spray adhesive on your pattern and stick it down. #1, it's way cheaper than blue tape, and #2, it's way easier to remove than blue tape, especially when you wait to long.
Thanks. I've gotten a lot better at that. The cross build is my top performing video, but it's 45 minutes long. Some people appreciate the extra information, but some prefer them more like this. Getting better at editing has a lot to do with it, too, but I've been working on making them more efficient videos while still trying to give as much info as I think is important. It's a balance.
Thanks. I'm making a couple more designs right now, and then I'll be selling them all this weekend. I'll probably put out an update video next week to show the new designs and let you guys know how the sales went.
I built it into my miter station. It's meant to be my dado station, but I haven't gotten around to finishing it up. Still need to level it, build the fence and dust shroud, and plumb the dust collection. Someday. It's on my list. I'll make a video and plans when I do.
@@maverickdesignswoodworkinghey friend absolutely nice video very helpful..a question ❓ xan you tellme where did you BOUGHT the patterns for the faces ,, if you can.
I'm a beginner woodworker so when creators get in depth like you just did it helps people like me a ton. Not many creators for that anymore. They are too worried about just getting veiws haha. Love the video.
When I made something like this I wasn't able to find any orange tinted stain, so I had to use regular matte orange paint and put it on very lightly with one of those sponge brushes. It doesn't look as good as yours but it doesn't look terrible either. Also I made mine as a set of three. One each at 10", 8", and 6".
I made a few others as well, like an owl and frankenstein. The frankenstein was the three most popular of them all. I'll probably do a follow up video on those soon.
If you put down either contact paper or painters tape on the wood, and then use spray adhesive on your pattern paper. The pattern stays in place and easier to cut. I’ll cover mine with packing tape which lubricates the blade and you’re able to cut longer without heating up your blade.
Excellent video Thank You ; ) I have the same chop saw, do you have a video showing how you made the zero clearance bottom plate and the enclosure? I would be willing to pay for plans.
Not yet. I do plan to make plans for the whole miter station, as well as just about everything else in my shop (CNC table and enclosure, run out/assembly table, tool and hardware bench, sanding storage station, clamp storage, dust collection cart, glue up jig, other jigs, etc.) but haven't had time to do it yet. It's all coming though, as soon a I can get it all done and get the website up and running. I have a short on me installing the zero clearance insert on the miter saw already, but I didn't make it--i bought it from Etsy.
First video I've seen from you and I enjoyed it........I think I'm going to end up making these for the neighbors I only have two lol. Great concept I like your ideas and wanted to add one. Tissue box covers made from hardwood for fall gifts. I made some with mitered and splined joints and they came out really nice using contrasting woods.
Definitely solid. The new formula semi transparent is terrible stuff in my opinion. The solid applies just as easily as the old formula (just apply, no need to remove) and is just as transparent. I have a couple of videos on this, the second of which does a direct comparison between the new solid and semi transparents, and the old formula. I only use the solid now, but if you still have some semi transparent, the first of those 2 videos shows the technique I use to apply it to get the best results.
if you order a stack of rare earth magnets you can add those to the base place with a spacer board tacked to it and a candle recess cut . . . then you're not juggle'n a light into the bottom . . . you can also option to 'frame' the inside of the front of the box with small off cuts use rare earth magnets and then you can use different face plates on the candle box . . . either swapping designs for that particular season or go to a neutral box and create multiple seasons / holidays with one box . . . i'll put my video up once i get my stuff in :) nothing wrong with help'n each other out to make production easier to move more product :)
I like the base idea, and minus the magnets had considered making a holder for the candle, but I also wanted to make it as fast and easy as possible to make these. Because if the low selling price, I wanted to increase the profit margin by being able to make more in a shorter time. Plus, it's really not a huge nuisance to lift the lid and drop the light in, so from a business perspective it made more sense to me this way. I've also considered the replaceable face idea, and may still do that. That will increase the sales price though, and I wanted to make a quick batch of these for a show coming up to first see how much interest there is and if they'll even sell well in my market. If they're a huge hit, it's definitely something I'll consider, especially since the holiday season is rolling in and there will be other patterns to make. The main thing keeping me from that, though, is if need to leave the boxes unstained, and I feel like the colors and look of them are what makes mine stand out from others. It's definitely all stuff I'll be considering going forward, once I determine how well they sell.
I don't know if a scroll saw comes with any blade, that's would likely depend from one brand to the next, but no, it's not likely to come with a spiral blade if it does come with one.
Hmmm. Off the top of my head, I'd say add some little eyelets to each corner of the base and run fishing line or twine or something through them to a single point at the top to hang from. Otherwise you'd have to redesign the whole thing to have the top permanently attached, and then using a hinge and catch, or maybe magnets so that the base could be opened/removed. You could also dado or half slot the bottom of the sides of the box and the base so that they slide together and you can remove the base that way. Just a couple ideas off the top of my head.
Redesign a little bit. Fasten the roof securely to the box. On the back side at bottom, make that back piece two inches or so shorter in length. You can then just insert the tea light through the back slot…. Add a few eye screws on top & hang.
That's the Microjig Grr-Ripper Pushblock. It's awesome. In fact, I have a couple of them. I added an Amazon affiliate link to it in the video description for you.
It might, depending on why you're getting so much blowout. If it's mostly due to an inability to shoot the nails level, I suspect you'd have the same problem. You can definitely try. I'd test on some scrap pieces first, as I would be worried about the pins going all the way through the top board with the cedar being so soft. Or use some scrap to practice with the 18 gauge to get better at placement. Worst case scenario you could just glue them up. The nails mostly serve to just hold everything together while the glue dries.
I usually sell them for 20 each or 3 for 50. The stain is minwax from Lowes. I strongly recommend the solid stain over the semi transparent for reasons I went over in my two flag staining videos. These colors are Fiesta Orange, hunter green, pure white, and true black.
It's the dewalt 735x with a 4 inch 90-degree elbow and a dust right bag from rockler. An even better way is to add a few feet of 4 inch hose so that you can put the bag either hanging down to the side, or underneath the planer on the shelf below it if you have the stand. I'm working on piping an actual dust collector to it, though, which is why i haven't done that.
I tried this myself and it was awesome! I love that orange and green. I found them at lowes like you said. I was wondering what white you used for the ghost and if you think it would be a good one for snowmen?
Glad to hear that! I believe the white is called Pure White, and I'm sure it would be good for a snowman. I'm going to do some Christmas themed ones myself, and that's the white I'll be using as well, unless I decide to paint instead, which is a possibility. I don't think the burning will look good on the Christmas ones, so I'll probably test the stain and white paint to see which looks better.
I’m having a huge problem on the east coast finding these pickets. None a Home Depot or Lowes! Can you recommend another type of wood? Is pressured treated ok? Is The Depots Outdoor Essentials pressure treated? Could I use pine? Thanks as always, Bob
You could use any type of wood. I wouldn't use anything pressure treated though. Pine would be fine, it would definitely be stronger, but more expensive. Maybe 1/2" plywood? You'd just have to be careful not to burn through or bubble up the top veneer. I find it incredible though that there are no fence pickets at any big box store. We have several types at all the stores here in California.
What is the name of the Minwax stain you used? This is the best instruction video I've seen on TH-cam for Jack-O-Lanterns.. And the most professional looking results. Got to do this project your way. Unfortunately I cannot get the wood you use. Spruce or Pine are my options. Thank you for posting this detailed video. Going to check out your torching video now. Subscribed.
Thanks Darrell! I'll actually be posting a follow up to this video with some new designs for this year, and detailed instructions on how to avoid and fix brad nail blowouts. It should be up in the next 30 minutes or so.
Great project~! Will have to make some of these for gifts. If you have the link for the pumpkin faces, would be great if you could provide a link. Thanks much~! New subscriber~!
Thanks, Andrew, glad you liked it. This is the one I got, but there are a lot of others as well. www.etsy.com/listing/1068596566/pumpkin-face-x100-bundle
It's actually kind of fun to make simpler stuff like this every once in a while. Even if you're not selling them, friends and family will all love them.
Solid. The semi transparent is really difficult to use. I talk about why in my 2 videos on staining American flags. Basically, the new formula semi transparent sucks, and the solid is much like the old formula. You can apply it like paint and don't need to wipe it off.
It's funny you mention that. I'm currently working on an update video to this one with some new designs, and my wife threw away my hand drawn templates thinking they were something the kids were doing, so I was digging them out of the trash this morning, lol. Because of that, that's exactly what I'm doing with the new ones.
Started at 20 each, 3 for 50, but that was tough. Sold better at 15 each, 3 for 40. But that was only in person sales (craft fairs, etc.). You'd have to be in the higher range if you're selling online due to the shipping (if you're offering free shipping). I think they get 20-25 each on Etsy, but I haven't sold there.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking. I mean, one could use 1x6 if that’s what they have. I actually made some larger ones, 8x8 and 8x12. Larger size improves visibility if you have them on your front porch. Instead of tealights, cheap LED “fairy lights” are available and come in BRIGHT orange. These bright orange LED lights look great at night.
Agreed, but they'd be significantly more expensive to make. If you're making them for yourself or friends/ family that would be fine, but you'd either have to sell them for higher prices or take a significant hit on margin. I guess it just depends on your motivation for making them. From a business perspective I don't think it would work for me.
I'm not sure yet. I'll be selling them actively at two different shows this weekend. I'll probably start at 20 each, or 50 for 3, and go from there. If nobody's buying, I'll have to consider going down, if their selling like crazy, I'll consider going up. It really will depend on the market.
I have been making some of these recently as well. I bought a 2 1/2" Forstner bit to put a recess in the inside bottom for the candle to sit in. That way it won't slide around. What color orange did you use with the Minwax? Was that one of their standard colors or did you use a color code to have them mix it like your flag colors?
It's not premixed, but it is one of the current available colors for minwax stains, Fiesta Orange. You just get a can of Minwax Wood Finish Solid Color Stain Clear Tint Base (NOT semi transparent), take it to the paint counter, and ask them to mix it with Fiesta Orange. I like that candle holder idea, it's a nice touch!
@@maverickdesignswoodworkingit’s a graphic design transfer technique. I use it with chalk to transfer quilting designs to fabric because it never messes up the stencil and brushes right off the fabric after. You lay the stencil over your piece, then “pounce” a chalk filled pad or wheel over the top so when you lift the stencil you see the chalk outline. Not sure this would be a good method for scroll sawing though, because it works on my little domestic machines, but the vibration from the stronger motors on my industrial machines knocks the chalk off, sometimes faster than I can sew the whole design, so I suspect it might be the same for the scroll saw. Depending on how fast you cut, you could do the same thing with water and sponge brush if you made your templates out of floppy plastic dollar store cutting boards (or you could pay 10x as much for the same thing labeled “template plastic” at a snootier store)
Hi Ronnie. I mentioned them in the video, but basically the box is 10 inches tall. The front and back panels are 5.25 wide-- just enough to square up both the edges from the 5.5 stock. The sides are 3.5 wide. The base is 1 inch larger than the assembled box both in width and length so that it will overhang by a half inch all the way around. What that is exactly will depend on the dimensions of the assembled box, which will vary based on how thick your boards are after planing, sanding, or whatever you do to them. Same with the top, which is just a hair bigger (about 1/16) so that it fits easily j the box and isn't too tight. The edges around the top are 7/8 wide, and the stem is 1.5 inch. Hope that helps.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking thanks, I re-watched the video and saw where I missed it. Thanks for responding, love the vids, very informative, much appreciated for a newbie like me.
Thanks for the comment, but that's actually not correct. Brad nails are thinner on one side than the other, kind of like a 2x4, and that thin side is oriented so that it comes out of the gun much more likely to bend to the left or right of the gun, as opposed to along the same direction (forward or back). Of course, things like wood grain direction and knots will affect things, but in general, you should nail perpendicular to the board you're driving into. That way, if the nail flexes left or right of the gun, it's far less likely to come out the side of the bottom board because it would need to flex forward or back along the thicker profile to do so. I've thought about making a video about this, but haven't because both Brad Rodriguez at Fix this Build That and the Honest Carpenter have already done comprehensive videos on it. Maybe I'll do one anyway, or maybe I'll mention it in the follow up video I'm working on to this one right now.
What in the hell ?? do you also like eating your cereal dry and then drink milk in between bites why do you feel the need to make things harder for yourself
when you hit the lights at the end! awesome way to end it! Going to start making these right away
Thanks! I think most people don't stick around long enough to get to the end of the video to see it. I've added bloopers at the end of a couple of other videos and no one has ever mentioned it.
If you ever need any CNC work let me know. Thanks, John
Love the burning around the faces!
Me too! It makes a big difference.
I really like how the grain came out from the burning 👍🎃
Thanks, me too!
Good video. Suggestion for the lid to save some time…instead of trying to “trim to fit” the short sides, do the same thing you do with the long sides. Leave some extra length on the short sides, attach them to the lid BEFORE the long sides and cut them flush to the lid with the miter saw, then continue doing the same thing with the long sides that you’re already doing.
Good idea!
The grain pattern on your ghost is absolutely perfect!
Thanks! Yeah, that one came out nice. I'm currently editing an update video to this one with some cool new designs. Should be out in the next day or two.
The only thing I might change is darkening the inside so that there is a larger contrast between the "flame" and the inside. Very cool.
Honestly, it doesn't really matter when it's dark out, all you can see is the light. It would only make a difference without the light in the daylight. Watch the very end end of the video when I show them in the dark, if you haven't seen it already.
I like how these turned out. Especially the burning around the cutouts.
Thanks, Angie, me too!
When scrolling there are 2 main options. Wrap the template and board in clear packaging tape. It helps lube the blade. Alternatively spray adhesive on just 1 surface. If going that route and ya have trouble removing the template remnants, mineral spirits will dissolve it after a quick little misting. Twomajor upgrades for the dewalt scroll saw is a good light and I love using a variable speed foot pedal. Many ppl use a pedal that are deadman switches or just simple on and off. Great job!
Thanks, and thanks for the tips. Mine has light, I just wasn't using it, but a foot pedal would definitely be nice.
Pro tip: cover the board in painters tape. Hit it with spray adhesive, attach pattern, saw it, easy removal😊
Thanks for the tip!
@@dgperforms1 an easy way to transfer the patern into the wood is using (Carbon paper )..it is my prefer way for the scroll saw..no glue no paper no nothing just what you need printed on the wood can not get any easier than that ...
better tip, buy cheap shelf paper, cut to fit, peel and stick, then use spray adhesive on your pattern and stick it down. #1, it's way cheaper than blue tape, and #2, it's way easier to remove than blue tape, especially when you wait to long.
Love the detailed, but no nonsense delivery. looks like an easy project with a cool result!
Thanks. I've gotten a lot better at that. The cross build is my top performing video, but it's 45 minutes long. Some people appreciate the extra information, but some prefer them more like this. Getting better at editing has a lot to do with it, too, but I've been working on making them more efficient videos while still trying to give as much info as I think is important. It's a balance.
I’m gearing up to make some of these too! Great video guy! Good luck on the sales!!!!
Thanks. I'm making a couple more designs right now, and then I'll be selling them all this weekend. I'll probably put out an update video next week to show the new designs and let you guys know how the sales went.
If you ever need any CNC work let me know. Thanks, John
Love the radial arm saw!!!
I built it into my miter station. It's meant to be my dado station, but I haven't gotten around to finishing it up. Still need to level it, build the fence and dust shroud, and plumb the dust collection. Someday. It's on my list. I'll make a video and plans when I do.
They make a sanding blade for the scroll saw makes getting into tight areas easy for more complex patterns fyi
Really? I didn't know that. That would be very helpful. I'll look into it. Thanks!
@@maverickdesignswoodworkinghey friend absolutely nice video very helpful..a question ❓ xan you tellme where did you BOUGHT the patterns for the faces ,, if you can.
@emmanuellevargas7021 Etsy. There is a link to the ones I got in the description, but there are a lot of other choices for similar prices too.
You did a WONDERFUL JOB!! LOOKS GREAT!! I'm gonna use my scroll saw for the first time ever and I wanted these to be my first "project" with it.
Thanks, Jeremy. These were the first project with mine as well.
Love the coloring, never seen them like that before!
Thanks. Yeah, the extra burn around the cutouts makes a cool effect.
What did you use for the stain?
Minwax fiesta orange and pure white from Lowes.
I really like this. It's so simple. Thank You.
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching.
Great project and great video. This one will definitely get noticed.
Thanks buddy!
If you ever need any CNC work let me know. Thanks, John
Nice job!...appreciate the explanation. If we have time, we may make these for our upcoming September show.
Thanks, Bill. I hope to put out an update video in next few days with some new designs too.
These look awesome!
Thank you!
Awesome video. Love how you got so in depth in explaining what you were doing. You would be a great teacher. I wasn't subscribed but I am now.
Wow, thank you. I really appreciate it.
I'm a beginner woodworker so when creators get in depth like you just did it helps people like me a ton. Not many creators for that anymore. They are too worried about just getting veiws haha. Love the video.
If you ever need any CNC work let me know. Thanks, John
Great vid man.
Great job.
Thanks David!
Good job and project thx for sharing they look amazing
Thanks Larry!
These look like lots of fun, I just dont have a scroll saw. Not sure if I want to attempt with a jigsaw,lol. Maybe one day!
Some people do them with router templates too, but that just seems like a lot more work to me.
New subscriber, this was a cute project, thank you for sharing!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it. Welcome to the channel!
wonder if you could tape/glue a little level on the nail gun so it would be easier to line up the brads
That's not a bad idea. I might try it.
When I made something like this I wasn't able to find any orange tinted stain, so I had to use regular matte orange paint and put it on very lightly with one of those sponge brushes. It doesn't look as good as yours but it doesn't look terrible either.
Also I made mine as a set of three. One each at 10", 8", and 6".
Fiesta Orange minwax solid stain from Lowes.
Thanks for sharing! Thinking of tackling this this year.
No problem, glad you liked it! I'm going to do a follow up video in a few weeks with some new designs.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking Nice, Looking forward to it!
Very cool! Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome, Mark, and thanks for watching!
I made some of these for last year's Halloween, but I never thought about making a ghost.that looks pretty cool
I made a few others as well, like an owl and frankenstein. The frankenstein was the three most popular of them all. I'll probably do a follow up video on those soon.
If you ever need any CNC work let me know. Thanks, John
If you put down either contact paper or painters tape on the wood, and then use spray adhesive on your pattern paper. The pattern stays in place and easier to cut. I’ll cover mine with packing tape which lubricates the blade and you’re able to cut longer without heating up your blade.
Thanks for the tips, I'll try that.
Thanks for the tips, I'll try that.
Very cool great idea
Thanks Jim!
Thank you for the video, I'm new to wood working ( 2 cutting boards in ) and this looks like a fun project to make. You got a sub from me!!
Thank you for watching, and welcome to the family!
Same and same. Love your work @maverickdesignswoodworking
@@BarkingBeavers Thanks and welcome!
Well done!!
Thank you!
Excellent video Thank You ; ) I have the same chop saw, do you have a video showing how you made the zero clearance bottom plate and the enclosure? I would be willing to pay for plans.
Not yet. I do plan to make plans for the whole miter station, as well as just about everything else in my shop (CNC table and enclosure, run out/assembly table, tool and hardware bench, sanding storage station, clamp storage, dust collection cart, glue up jig, other jigs, etc.) but haven't had time to do it yet. It's all coming though, as soon a I can get it all done and get the website up and running. I have a short on me installing the zero clearance insert on the miter saw already, but I didn't make it--i bought it from Etsy.
If you ever need any CNC work let me know. Thanks, John
great technique. fun project
Thanks, John. I'm working on an update to this video now with some new and improved designs. Hoping to get it out by the weekend.
First video I've seen from you and I enjoyed it........I think I'm going to end up making these for the neighbors I only have two lol. Great concept I like your ideas and wanted to add one. Tissue box covers made from hardwood for fall gifts. I made some with mitered and splined joints and they came out really nice using contrasting woods.
Ooohhh, I like that. Thanks for the idea. I'll see what I can come up with.
If you ever need any CNC work let me know. Thanks, John
Will the spiral blades work with a typical scroll saw or do you need a adapter?
They should work on any scroll saw as long as you have the right type blade for your saw (with pins or pinless).
Great tutorial Mav...
Thanks!
Cool project
Thanks, Jason. Working on an update video with some new designs right now!
Love them!! 🎃
Thanks, Rachel!
Awesome idea and video
Thanks!
Very cool
Thanks!
Curious about the Minwax stain you used. Do you use the solid or semi-transparent formula?
Definitely solid. The new formula semi transparent is terrible stuff in my opinion. The solid applies just as easily as the old formula (just apply, no need to remove) and is just as transparent. I have a couple of videos on this, the second of which does a direct comparison between the new solid and semi transparents, and the old formula. I only use the solid now, but if you still have some semi transparent, the first of those 2 videos shows the technique I use to apply it to get the best results.
if you order a stack of rare earth magnets you can add those to the base place with a spacer board tacked to it and a candle recess cut . . . then you're not juggle'n a light into the bottom . . . you can also option to 'frame' the inside of the front of the box with small off cuts use rare earth magnets and then you can use different face plates on the candle box . . . either swapping designs for that particular season or go to a neutral box and create multiple seasons / holidays with one box . . . i'll put my video up once i get my stuff in :) nothing wrong with help'n each other out to make production easier to move more product :)
oh and subscribed / liked :) fellow woodies should stick together
Thanks!
I like the base idea, and minus the magnets had considered making a holder for the candle, but I also wanted to make it as fast and easy as possible to make these. Because if the low selling price, I wanted to increase the profit margin by being able to make more in a shorter time. Plus, it's really not a huge nuisance to lift the lid and drop the light in, so from a business perspective it made more sense to me this way. I've also considered the replaceable face idea, and may still do that. That will increase the sales price though, and I wanted to make a quick batch of these for a show coming up to first see how much interest there is and if they'll even sell well in my market. If they're a huge hit, it's definitely something I'll consider, especially since the holiday season is rolling in and there will be other patterns to make. The main thing keeping me from that, though, is if need to leave the boxes unstained, and I feel like the colors and look of them are what makes mine stand out from others. It's definitely all stuff I'll be considering going forward, once I determine how well they sell.
Spiral blade! Thank you!
You're welcome!
Curious did you buy the orange stain or added orange to the stain? Thanks
Minwax fiesta orange from Lowes.
Does a scroll saw come with that kind of blade we need
I don't know if a scroll saw comes with any blade, that's would likely depend from one brand to the next, but no, it's not likely to come with a spiral blade if it does come with one.
Very well done
Thank you!
How could you add a way to hang them while still having it accessible for placing the candle?
Hmmm. Off the top of my head, I'd say add some little eyelets to each corner of the base and run fishing line or twine or something through them to a single point at the top to hang from. Otherwise you'd have to redesign the whole thing to have the top permanently attached, and then using a hinge and catch, or maybe magnets so that the base could be opened/removed. You could also dado or half slot the bottom of the sides of the box and the base so that they slide together and you can remove the base that way. Just a couple ideas off the top of my head.
Redesign a little bit. Fasten the roof securely to the box. On the back side at bottom, make that back piece two inches or so shorter in length. You can then just insert the tea light through the back slot…. Add a few eye screws on top & hang.
Where did you get the item you used to push your wood through the table saw.
That's the Microjig Grr-Ripper Pushblock. It's awesome. In fact, I have a couple of them. I added an Amazon affiliate link to it in the video description for you.
Would a 23 gauge pin nailer work better? I don’t have one personally, but the 18 gauge blowout has messed up a couple of my projects
It might, depending on why you're getting so much blowout. If it's mostly due to an inability to shoot the nails level, I suspect you'd have the same problem. You can definitely try. I'd test on some scrap pieces first, as I would be worried about the pins going all the way through the top board with the cedar being so soft. Or use some scrap to practice with the 18 gauge to get better at placement. Worst case scenario you could just glue them up. The nails mostly serve to just hold everything together while the glue dries.
what "Orange" stain do you use? Where do you get it?
Minwax fiesta orange from Lowes.
Nice work
Thanks!
I really like these. How much do you sell them for? Where do you get the stains? Thanks
I usually sell them for 20 each or 3 for 50. The stain is minwax from Lowes. I strongly recommend the solid stain over the semi transparent for reasons I went over in my two flag staining videos. These colors are Fiesta Orange, hunter green, pure white, and true black.
Put the side boards in between the frn and back piece. Than you dint see the seam of the side boards.
I intentionally did them this way because the templates were so wide and I wanted some edging and reinforcement on the sides where some are very thin.
Looking to build a workshop. What size is yours? Any suggestions? Thanks
Mine is my 2 car garage. It's about 400 square feet or roughly 20x20. I have a shop tour video that should give you some ideas.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking Thanks so much!
first questions is about the planer dust collection. what set up is that?
It's the dewalt 735x with a 4 inch 90-degree elbow and a dust right bag from rockler. An even better way is to add a few feet of 4 inch hose so that you can put the bag either hanging down to the side, or underneath the planer on the shelf below it if you have the stand. I'm working on piping an actual dust collector to it, though, which is why i haven't done that.
Thank you, i dont have any plans for actual dust collection so i have been looking for something like this. @@maverickdesignswoodworking
This only works because the 735 has its own blower. Any other planer that doesn't will need to be hooked up to some type of vacuum or dust collection.
looks great
Thanks!
I tried this myself and it was awesome! I love that orange and green. I found them at lowes like you said. I was wondering what white you used for the ghost and if you think it would be a good one for snowmen?
Glad to hear that! I believe the white is called Pure White, and I'm sure it would be good for a snowman. I'm going to do some Christmas themed ones myself, and that's the white I'll be using as well, unless I decide to paint instead, which is a possibility. I don't think the burning will look good on the Christmas ones, so I'll probably test the stain and white paint to see which looks better.
If you ever need any CNC work let me know. Thanks, John
Love your work what is the color on the minwax trying to find it
Thanks. It's Fiesta Orange. You take a can of solid clear Tint Base to the paint counter and ask them for Fiesta Orange.
Really neat! Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Great tutorial Sir! ... Thank You!! =)
My pleasure, Clinton. Thanks for the support!
I’m having a huge problem on the east coast finding these pickets. None a Home Depot or Lowes! Can you recommend another type of wood? Is pressured treated ok? Is The Depots Outdoor Essentials pressure treated? Could I use pine? Thanks as always, Bob
You could use any type of wood. I wouldn't use anything pressure treated though. Pine would be fine, it would definitely be stronger, but more expensive. Maybe 1/2" plywood? You'd just have to be careful not to burn through or bubble up the top veneer. I find it incredible though that there are no fence pickets at any big box store. We have several types at all the stores here in California.
@@maverickdesignswoodworkingThanks
Just found your channel. Good job. Good build. I'm new to making little things like this. Great ideas 💡 😊
Thanks, I'm glad you like it!
If you ever need any CNC work let me know. Thanks, John
What is the name of the Minwax stain you used? This is the best instruction video I've seen on TH-cam for Jack-O-Lanterns.. And the most professional looking results. Got to do this project your way. Unfortunately I cannot get the wood you use. Spruce or Pine are my options. Thank you for posting this detailed video. Going to check out your torching video now. Subscribed.
Thanks Darrell! I'll actually be posting a follow up to this video with some new designs for this year, and detailed instructions on how to avoid and fix brad nail blowouts. It should be up in the next 30 minutes or so.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking Thank you. I'm looking forward to watching and learning from it.
How do you put the lights inside?
Take off the top, put in the light, put the top back on.
My only suggestion is that you might wanna put a slight angle on the bottom an top of the stem
Thanks, I'll try it. .
@@maverickdesignswoodworking you're welcome, just adds that stem lean , I'd say anywhere between a 20° and 22.5° angle.
Great project~! Will have to make some of these for gifts. If you have the link for the pumpkin faces, would be great if you could provide a link. Thanks much~!
New subscriber~!
Thanks, Andrew, glad you liked it. This is the one I got, but there are a lot of others as well.
www.etsy.com/listing/1068596566/pumpkin-face-x100-bundle
great job
Thank you!
This is awesome! I might have to try to make a few!
It's actually kind of fun to make simpler stuff like this every once in a while. Even if you're not selling them, friends and family will all love them.
Really awesome
Thanks!
What brand orange stain did you use? TIA
Fiesta Orange minwax solid stain from Lowes
What is the stain you used
Minwax solid stain in Fiesta Orange.
Great video...what blade are you using on your scroll saw?
Thanks. It's an Olson #4 spiral blade. It's linked in the description.
Thanks so much.@@maverickdesignswoodworking
What was the pride on them
I've been selling them 20 each or 3 for 50, but it will depend on your local market.
Tom, another great video, what kind of prices are you getting for these?
Thanks. I usually sell them for 20 each or 3 for 50, but it will greatly depend on your local market.
Cool project! Sub!!! What is the brand color of stain you’re using? Thank you.
Thanks Ron! It's minwax fiesta orange and pure white from Lowes. In the follow up video with the new designs I'm using true black and hunter green.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking thank you Sir
Is it the semi-transparent or solid color@@maverickdesignswoodworking
Solid. The semi transparent is really difficult to use. I talk about why in my 2 videos on staining American flags. Basically, the new formula semi transparent sucks, and the solid is much like the old formula. You can apply it like paint and don't need to wipe it off.
Couldn't you make a permanent pattern for the faces and trace it out then cut?
It's funny you mention that. I'm currently working on an update video to this one with some new designs, and my wife threw away my hand drawn templates thinking they were something the kids were doing, so I was digging them out of the trash this morning, lol. Because of that, that's exactly what I'm doing with the new ones.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking lol.
Do you have a link for the stl files?
There's a link to the ones I used in the description.
I looked again and couldn't find it@maverickdesignswoodworking
@MachineEarth Sorry, it was on the update video to this one with the new designs. I've added it to this one too.
Thanks, for a buck fifty, that's a lot of patterns.
Yeah, it's a pretty decent deal. Comes in a bunch of file types too.
3 dollars for a cedar fence slat. You can only dream of prices like that in the UK.
Really? What do they cost there?
How much did you sell them for
Started at 20 each, 3 for 50, but that was tough. Sold better at 15 each, 3 for 40. But that was only in person sales (craft fairs, etc.). You'd have to be in the higher range if you're selling online due to the shipping (if you're offering free shipping). I think they get 20-25 each on Etsy, but I haven't sold there.
How much to do you expect to charge for these?
20 each or 3 for 50, but it will highly depend on your local market.
Is that 1x6 cedar?
No, not 1x6. They are cedar fence pickets (dog eared at the top). The ones I'm using are about 5/8" by 6 feet.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking. I mean, one could use 1x6 if that’s what they have. I actually made some larger ones, 8x8 and 8x12. Larger size improves visibility if you have them on your front porch. Instead of tealights, cheap LED “fairy lights” are available and come in BRIGHT orange. These bright orange LED lights look great at night.
Agreed, but they'd be significantly more expensive to make. If you're making them for yourself or friends/ family that would be fine, but you'd either have to sell them for higher prices or take a significant hit on margin. I guess it just depends on your motivation for making them. From a business perspective I don't think it would work for me.
What do these sell for?
I'm not sure yet. I'll be selling them actively at two different shows this weekend. I'll probably start at 20 each, or 50 for 3, and go from there. If nobody's buying, I'll have to consider going down, if their selling like crazy, I'll consider going up. It really will depend on the market.
Good plan. Can you keep us updated? How many would you say you make an hour?
I have been making some of these recently as well. I bought a 2 1/2" Forstner bit to put a recess in the inside bottom for the candle to sit in. That way it won't slide around. What color orange did you use with the Minwax? Was that one of their standard colors or did you use a color code to have them mix it like your flag colors?
It's not premixed, but it is one of the current available colors for minwax stains, Fiesta Orange. You just get a can of Minwax Wood Finish Solid Color Stain Clear Tint Base (NOT semi transparent), take it to the paint counter, and ask them to mix it with Fiesta Orange. I like that candle holder idea, it's a nice touch!
@@maverickdesignswoodworking it's actually a 1 1/2" bit. Not a 2 1/2".
How much do you sell them for?
20 each or 3 for 50. But that's really going to depend on your market.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking That's what I had in mind. thanks! I live in Az
Make pounce pattern.
Pounce?
@@maverickdesignswoodworkingit’s a graphic design transfer technique. I use it with chalk to transfer quilting designs to fabric because it never messes up the stencil and brushes right off the fabric after. You lay the stencil over your piece, then “pounce” a chalk filled pad or wheel over the top so when you lift the stencil you see the chalk outline. Not sure this would be a good method for scroll sawing though, because it works on my little domestic machines, but the vibration from the stronger motors on my industrial machines knocks the chalk off, sometimes faster than I can sew the whole design, so I suspect it might be the same for the scroll saw. Depending on how fast you cut, you could do the same thing with water and sponge brush if you made your templates out of floppy plastic dollar store cutting boards (or you could pay 10x as much for the same thing labeled “template plastic” at a snootier store)
Thanks for clearing that up. I had no idea.
what are the dimensions?
Hi Ronnie. I mentioned them in the video, but basically the box is 10 inches tall. The front and back panels are 5.25 wide-- just enough to square up both the edges from the 5.5 stock. The sides are 3.5 wide. The base is 1 inch larger than the assembled box both in width and length so that it will overhang by a half inch all the way around. What that is exactly will depend on the dimensions of the assembled box, which will vary based on how thick your boards are after planing, sanding, or whatever you do to them. Same with the top, which is just a hair bigger (about 1/16) so that it fits easily j the box and isn't too tight. The edges around the top are 7/8 wide, and the stem is 1.5 inch. Hope that helps.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking thanks, I re-watched the video and saw where I missed it. Thanks for responding, love the vids, very informative, much appreciated for a newbie like me.
Happy to help! I learned a lot from TH-cam myself in the beginning. It's an awesome tool for that.
Did it take the entire bottle of Gentleman Jack to complete the build😂😂
Lol. I was wondering if anyone would mention that. I make lamps out of those bottles. I should probably do a video on them.
@maverickdesignswoodworking yes please do I uhhh, possibly have access to empty bottle myself
Pro tip; turn your nail gun so that it is parallel with the edge instead of perpendicular to it. You rarely ever have a blow out.
Thanks for the comment, but that's actually not correct. Brad nails are thinner on one side than the other, kind of like a 2x4, and that thin side is oriented so that it comes out of the gun much more likely to bend to the left or right of the gun, as opposed to along the same direction (forward or back). Of course, things like wood grain direction and knots will affect things, but in general, you should nail perpendicular to the board you're driving into. That way, if the nail flexes left or right of the gun, it's far less likely to come out the side of the bottom board because it would need to flex forward or back along the thicker profile to do so. I've thought about making a video about this, but haven't because both Brad Rodriguez at Fix this Build That and the Honest Carpenter have already done comprehensive videos on it. Maybe I'll do one anyway, or maybe I'll mention it in the follow up video I'm working on to this one right now.
What in the hell ?? do you also like eating your cereal dry and then drink milk in between bites why do you feel the need to make things harder for yourself
Umm, ok? Lol. A little context maybe?
Super cool projects. Thank you
Thanks! I've got an update coming out with some new cool designs, hopefully in a few days.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking I'm looking forward to seeing all that you do. Thanks
Great idea!
Thanks Andrew! I'm going to put out an update video soon on some new designs for these.
How much do you sell them for?
1 for 20 or 3 for 50.