I wanted to clarify something I said at around the 1:50 mark that is kind of confusing. What I was trying to say is that if you buy 1x2x8 dimensional lumber, you will actually need 7 pieces (not 14) to make one flag. Each of those pieces will yield 2 stripes, for a total of 14, and one backer. Sorry for the confusion.
I'm going to get to work on it hopefully in the next couple weeks, so stay tuned. Honestly, it won't take very long to design and cut, but I have to work on the website, shipping and other logistics to sell them and plans for various things.
You can, and I have before, but not on the one in this video. Sometimes the edges of the 1×2s you get will have rounded edges and will give it this effect too. For example, the 1x2s at my local HD are 90 degrees, but the ones at Lowe's are rounded. I'll usually make flags with both just to have a slightly different aesthetic for customers to choose from. You can also specifically chamfer the edges for a more dramatic version of this effect, but I generally only do that if someone requests it and then I charge a little more. An example of a flag I did like that is on my very first video, the American flag concealment box lock demonstration video.
I use this US Flag dimensions calculator: www.inchcalculator.com/american-flag-size-proportions-calculator/ All you do is plug in either the length or hoist (height) of your flag, and it will give you every other dimension right down to the size of the stars and the spaces between them. Of course, if you buy the laser cut wooden stars like I do, you might have to adjust the size of your flag or use stars that might be a little bigger or smaller than exact right size. For example, the most common size most flag makers use is a 19.5 X37 inch flag, because that equals 1.5" stripes, which means you can use 1x2 dimensional lumber to make them. If you plug that into the calculator, it will tell you a 19.5 inch hoist should be 37-1/16" long, but everyone just rounds down to 37. I know a few guys that actually do 36. It also says the stars should be 1-3/16" but I and everyone else I know just use 1" stars, because unless you're cutting them on your own laser they don't come in that size. You could even use 1-1/4 if you can find them. All that said, the way I made my template was I just cut a piece of 1/4" plywood to 10-1/2 x 14-13/16 (the size of the union for a flag that size), and then just made a grid for the center points of the 50 stars using the dimensions from that calculator, and used my drill press to drill a hole where the center of each star is. It takes some nuance and a little practice to get the stars aligned this way, but once I get them on there I do them row by row and I typically just make sure all the stars in a row are oriented in same the place relative to the stripe they're on. A better way to do this would be to make a template with the stars cut complete out just slightly larger than 1 inch so that you can fix the template in place and then just drop the stars into the cutouts. I am going to start making and selling these on my website along with build plans and board butter and such, I just haven't gotten around to it yet. Once I do, I'll put out a video on it so you will all know-hopefully soon. I hope this helped.
Honestly, just about anything will only slow that down minimally. On outdoor furniture I'd probably use Tung oil or Australian Timber Oil. For something like this, a flag, the only thing that would work better than some sort of urethane (which, where I live in the high desert, wouldn't last even a year) would be to just epoxy it. I don't have any experience with it, but I think there are some products made for boats that might work at least a little better than a urethane. I'd probably just recommend using a high grade exterior paint instead of stain for a flag like this. You won't get that rustic burned look, but you could do some manual distressing. That would probably last a good while.
In my opinion, yes, they are necessary. The wood won't come apart along those glue lines if you do a good glue up, but it can, and invariably will, start to cup or warp the whole flag without those supports. Dowels could fix that, but it's a lot more work. You could also use a sheet of plywood or mdf as a support backer, but that will increase cost. I prefer to use a high gloss lacquer to finish them.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking thanks. I’m only starting with making a couple for myself. I did get some biscuits and a slot bit to make the slot for them. I guess sheen is preference. I was thinking opposite and doing flat or semi.
The stars are the reason why I don’t do flags. They are a pain in the caboose. I also do not own a CNC yet but one day maybe😂 I have not upgraded SketchUp from the Fred Flinstone Edition yet either 😂
Yeah, the stars are definitely the most tedious part of making flags. I started out doing them with laser cut stars because I just couldn't imagine sitting there with a dremmel for hours doing it. Still can't imagine doing that--plus it seems the majority of makers are doing that way, and I like the 3d effect of the stars being proud better. Also, the uneven surface inside the star that results from doing it that way would trigger my OCD, lol. But, if you do it with CA glue and with the template that I am going to make, it really isn't that bad. I've had my CNC for almost a year and a half now, and I only just started making flags on it a month or so ago. I have started doing the stars on the small flags that are on my concealment keyboxes on the CNC now, because those tiny little 1/2 inch stars are miserable to work with. What used to take over an hour only takes a few minutes now. I'll probably start doing these bigger flags with the CNC too, particularly to incorporate images, personalization, etc., but that comes with challenges too. If the surface is at all uneven, it will really mess up whatever the CNC carves. Since my small flags are a single solid piece of wood, I just run a flattening pass first before staining and carving the stars, but on these bigger flags I'll have to make the unions separate, as others do. When I got my CNC I just decided to take the plunge with Fusion 360 for CAD/CAM and modeling. It's expensive and much more difficult to learn that some of the free CAD/CAM software and sketchup, but it's also much more powerful software that doesn't have the limitations of those others. But that's also why it took me over a year to figure out how to use it. Thanks for watching!
I used to use Titebond II, but that can be time consuming, especially for me and my OCD, because I would spend time cleaning up squeeze out with a pick around every star. Also, while it does work, you don't get the best bond with wood glue on a stained surface. Now I use medium thick Starbond CA glue, which is what I'm using here. Clear is ideal, but here I'm using black, which is fine too as long as you don't use too much and get a lot of squeeze out. Plus, the CA glue adheres to the stained surface better, and this is a whole lot faster. Actually, I can't remember if I mentioned it in this video or not, but I usually put down a quick coat of lacquer before applying the stars, as the CA glue bonds really well to it.
I made it from 1/4 inch plywood. The measurements are going to vary based on the the size of the flag you're making. Basically, I just used the size and spacing data from the inchcalculator.com American Flag Size and Proportions Calculator (I'll link it below), and cut the plywood to size of the union for the size of flag I wanted to make, created a grid with the center points for all 50 stars, and then drilled holes at all 50 points. This is not the most effective way to do it, but it's how I've been doing it for years. Once you get used to it, it works. I'm currently working on making a template to sell for various flag sizes that will have the stars cut in their entirety so that you can just lay it over the union, add the glue, and just drop the stars into the spaces. I'm hoping do it with my CNC, but I may need to get a laser cutter to do it. I am working on that now, and will let you know once I have them ready, if you're interested. www.inchcalculator.com/american-flag-size-proportions-calculator/
You know, I've been putting that off for a long time. Let me see if I can find time to work on that this weekend and I'll get back to you via email since I already have your email address. You're the second person to ask me about it recently.
Thanks for posting. I started making flags too. I have purchased cedar from a local Sawmill. That cedar makes great red stripes and maple for the white stripes. So I don't stain the wood. I spray the blue and use a plastic template to spray the stars. I saw the wooden ones and thought I couldn't attach them to make them look good. Your template and punch does help though. I don't have a cnc to create what you are going to do. Not sure if I can post a finished flag to your site.
That sounds like a cool idea. I've played around with doing one out of different woods rather than staining (like paduk, maple, and walnut), but I think it would be very hard to sell because of how high the price would be. I'd definitely make one like that if someone ordered one though. If I made cutting boards, I'd probably try one like that. I don't think you can post a picture here on youtube, but you can definitely send one to me via email at maverickdesignswoodworking@gmail.com. I'd like to see it!
Hey Maverick, I took pictures of my labels that show the code. When I go to Lowe’s I just show them and the make the Scarlet and True Blue. Hope that helps you or someone. - Gary
Thanks, Gary. Yeah, I have the codes, but at my Lowe's Scarlet in particular does not show up in the system at all unless they do a couple of things to "trick" it. They need both "tricks" for Scarlet, and one of them for True Blue at my store. Somebody in one of my Facebook groups is a manager at Lowes and he posted the steps you have to take to get it if that happens at yours. Apparently, some Lowes stores either already know the tricks or they can just use the codes for whatever reason, but at others (mine being one) I have to walk them through it every time there's a different person at the paint desk. I'll cover those in that staining video as well as the codes,, and my tips and tricks for applying that new thicker formula, which I almost gave up on at one point until I figured out how to apply it in a way that isn't painful. Thanks for watching!
These flags are 19.5 x 37 inches. The union is 10.5 x 14.75. I recommend you use a US flag dimensions calculator. This is the one I like: www.inchcalculator.com/american-flag-size-proportions-calculator/
You're welcome, and thank you for watching! I just wish I could get videos out faster and more frequently, but my day job is very demanding of my time. I'm hoping to change that.
JDC, I do, I sell a lot of them locally. I haven't shipped any before, but I'm willing to do it. I'm actually working on a website to accommodate online orders, but that might be a while before it's ready. Send me an email at maverickdesignswoodworking@gmail.com. I'll look into the cost of shipping and we'll see if we can figure something out that works for you.
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I wanted to clarify something I said at around the 1:50 mark that is kind of confusing. What I was trying to say is that if you buy 1x2x8 dimensional lumber, you will actually need 7 pieces (not 14) to make one flag. Each of those pieces will yield 2 stripes, for a total of 14, and one backer. Sorry for the confusion.
great video
Thanks, Dave. Glad you liked it!
I’m definitely interested in the template. Thanks for these videos!
I'm going to get to work on it hopefully in the next couple weeks, so stay tuned. Honestly, it won't take very long to design and cut, but I have to work on the website, shipping and other logistics to sell them and plans for various things.
And, you're welcome, and thanks for watching!
Did you put a 45 degree bevel on the sides of the wood
You can, and I have before, but not on the one in this video. Sometimes the edges of the 1×2s you get will have rounded edges and will give it this effect too. For example, the 1x2s at my local HD are 90 degrees, but the ones at Lowe's are rounded. I'll usually make flags with both just to have a slightly different aesthetic for customers to choose from. You can also specifically chamfer the edges for a more dramatic version of this effect, but I generally only do that if someone requests it and then I charge a little more. An example of a flag I did like that is on my very first video, the American flag concealment box lock demonstration video.
Great Job Tom!! Love the flag
Thanks!
How did you measure the template for the stars. Thanks love your crosses
I use this US Flag dimensions calculator: www.inchcalculator.com/american-flag-size-proportions-calculator/
All you do is plug in either the length or hoist (height) of your flag, and it will give you every other dimension right down to the size of the stars and the spaces between them. Of course, if you buy the laser cut wooden stars like I do, you might have to adjust the size of your flag or use stars that might be a little bigger or smaller than exact right size. For example, the most common size most flag makers use is a 19.5 X37 inch flag, because that equals 1.5" stripes, which means you can use 1x2 dimensional lumber to make them. If you plug that into the calculator, it will tell you a 19.5 inch hoist should be 37-1/16" long, but everyone just rounds down to 37. I know a few guys that actually do 36. It also says the stars should be 1-3/16" but I and everyone else I know just use 1" stars, because unless you're cutting them on your own laser they don't come in that size. You could even use 1-1/4 if you can find them. All that said, the way I made my template was I just cut a piece of 1/4" plywood to 10-1/2 x 14-13/16 (the size of the union for a flag that size), and then just made a grid for the center points of the 50 stars using the dimensions from that calculator, and used my drill press to drill a hole where the center of each star is. It takes some nuance and a little practice to get the stars aligned this way, but once I get them on there I do them row by row and I typically just make sure all the stars in a row are oriented in same the place relative to the stripe they're on. A better way to do this would be to make a template with the stars cut complete out just slightly larger than 1 inch so that you can fix the template in place and then just drop the stars into the cutouts. I am going to start making and selling these on my website along with build plans and board butter and such, I just haven't gotten around to it yet. Once I do, I'll put out a video on it so you will all know-hopefully soon. I hope this helped.
Can you recommend an exterior spray that'll slow down damage from the SoCal sun and rain?
Honestly, just about anything will only slow that down minimally. On outdoor furniture I'd probably use Tung oil or Australian Timber Oil. For something like this, a flag, the only thing that would work better than some sort of urethane (which, where I live in the high desert, wouldn't last even a year) would be to just epoxy it. I don't have any experience with it, but I think there are some products made for boats that might work at least a little better than a urethane. I'd probably just recommend using a high grade exterior paint instead of stain for a flag like this. You won't get that rustic burned look, but you could do some manual distressing. That would probably last a good while.
Do you need to use the supports on the back? Will the glue hold it together by itself?
And
What clear sheen do you use? Matte, semi, high gloss?
In my opinion, yes, they are necessary. The wood won't come apart along those glue lines if you do a good glue up, but it can, and invariably will, start to cup or warp the whole flag without those supports. Dowels could fix that, but it's a lot more work. You could also use a sheet of plywood or mdf as a support backer, but that will increase cost. I prefer to use a high gloss lacquer to finish them.
@@maverickdesignswoodworking thanks. I’m only starting with making a couple for myself. I did get some biscuits and a slot bit to make the slot for them.
I guess sheen is preference. I was thinking opposite and doing flat or semi.
Yeah whichever you like best is the right one!
The stars are the reason why I don’t do flags. They are a pain in the caboose. I also do not own a CNC yet but one day maybe😂
I have not upgraded SketchUp from the Fred Flinstone Edition yet either 😂
Yeah, the stars are definitely the most tedious part of making flags. I started out doing them with laser cut stars because I just couldn't imagine sitting there with a dremmel for hours doing it. Still can't imagine doing that--plus it seems the majority of makers are doing that way, and I like the 3d effect of the stars being proud better. Also, the uneven surface inside the star that results from doing it that way would trigger my OCD, lol. But, if you do it with CA glue and with the template that I am going to make, it really isn't that bad. I've had my CNC for almost a year and a half now, and I only just started making flags on it a month or so ago. I have started doing the stars on the small flags that are on my concealment keyboxes on the CNC now, because those tiny little 1/2 inch stars are miserable to work with. What used to take over an hour only takes a few minutes now. I'll probably start doing these bigger flags with the CNC too, particularly to incorporate images, personalization, etc., but that comes with challenges too. If the surface is at all uneven, it will really mess up whatever the CNC carves. Since my small flags are a single solid piece of wood, I just run a flattening pass first before staining and carving the stars, but on these bigger flags I'll have to make the unions separate, as others do. When I got my CNC I just decided to take the plunge with Fusion 360 for CAD/CAM and modeling. It's expensive and much more difficult to learn that some of the free CAD/CAM software and sketchup, but it's also much more powerful software that doesn't have the limitations of those others. But that's also why it took me over a year to figure out how to use it. Thanks for watching!
What glue do you use for the stars?
I used to use Titebond II, but that can be time consuming, especially for me and my OCD, because I would spend time cleaning up squeeze out with a pick around every star. Also, while it does work, you don't get the best bond with wood glue on a stained surface. Now I use medium thick Starbond CA glue, which is what I'm using here. Clear is ideal, but here I'm using black, which is fine too as long as you don't use too much and get a lot of squeeze out. Plus, the CA glue adheres to the stained surface better, and this is a whole lot faster. Actually, I can't remember if I mentioned it in this video or not, but I usually put down a quick coat of lacquer before applying the stars, as the CA glue bonds really well to it.
Hey Mav - where can I get the star template measurements (just the one you use in this vid) so I can recreate it? Thanks!!
I made it from 1/4 inch plywood. The measurements are going to vary based on the the size of the flag you're making. Basically, I just used the size and spacing data from the inchcalculator.com American Flag Size and Proportions Calculator (I'll link it below), and cut the plywood to size of the union for the size of flag I wanted to make, created a grid with the center points for all 50 stars, and then drilled holes at all 50 points. This is not the most effective way to do it, but it's how I've been doing it for years. Once you get used to it, it works. I'm currently working on making a template to sell for various flag sizes that will have the stars cut in their entirety so that you can just lay it over the union, add the glue, and just drop the stars into the spaces. I'm hoping do it with my CNC, but I may need to get a laser cutter to do it. I am working on that now, and will let you know once I have them ready, if you're interested.
www.inchcalculator.com/american-flag-size-proportions-calculator/
I just watched this video for the first time so I would like to know if your star template is available.
You know, I've been putting that off for a long time. Let me see if I can find time to work on that this weekend and I'll get back to you via email since I already have your email address. You're the second person to ask me about it recently.
@@maverickdesignswoodworkingThank you
Thanks for posting. I started making flags too. I have purchased cedar from a local Sawmill. That cedar makes great red stripes and maple for the white stripes. So I don't stain the wood. I spray the blue and use a plastic template to spray the stars. I saw the wooden ones and thought I couldn't attach them to make them look good. Your template and punch does help though. I don't have a cnc to create what you are going to do. Not sure if I can post a finished flag to your site.
That sounds like a cool idea. I've played around with doing one out of different woods rather than staining (like paduk, maple, and walnut), but I think it would be very hard to sell because of how high the price would be. I'd definitely make one like that if someone ordered one though. If I made cutting boards, I'd probably try one like that. I don't think you can post a picture here on youtube, but you can definitely send one to me via email at maverickdesignswoodworking@gmail.com. I'd like to see it!
How much do you sell these for?
That's changed over the years, but currently $150.
Hey Maverick, I took pictures of my labels that show the code. When I go to Lowe’s I just show them and the make the Scarlet and True Blue. Hope that helps you or someone. - Gary
Thanks, Gary. Yeah, I have the codes, but at my Lowe's Scarlet in particular does not show up in the system at all unless they do a couple of things to "trick" it. They need both "tricks" for Scarlet, and one of them for True Blue at my store. Somebody in one of my Facebook groups is a manager at Lowes and he posted the steps you have to take to get it if that happens at yours. Apparently, some Lowes stores either already know the tricks or they can just use the codes for whatever reason, but at others (mine being one) I have to walk them through it every time there's a different person at the paint desk. I'll cover those in that staining video as well as the codes,, and my tips and tricks for applying that new thicker formula, which I almost gave up on at one point until I figured out how to apply it in a way that isn't painful. Thanks for watching!
I”m looking forward to all of your upcoming videos. Thanks for the reply.! - Gary
What is the dimensions of your Union ?
These flags are 19.5 x 37 inches. The union is 10.5 x 14.75. I recommend you use a US flag dimensions calculator. This is the one I like:
www.inchcalculator.com/american-flag-size-proportions-calculator/
@@maverickdesignswoodworking thanks man !! i appreciate your channel it has renewed my passion in woodworking !
You're welcome, and thank you for watching! I just wish I could get videos out faster and more frequently, but my day job is very demanding of my time. I'm hoping to change that.
Tom, do you sell the American flags? If so how much? Shipping to Iowa? Details? Thanks Tom, you have a interesting channel, job well done.
JDC, I do, I sell a lot of them locally. I haven't shipped any before, but I'm willing to do it. I'm actually working on a website to accommodate online orders, but that might be a while before it's ready. Send me an email at maverickdesignswoodworking@gmail.com. I'll look into the cost of shipping and we'll see if we can figure something out that works for you.