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At 4:15 in the video the formula should read (400 x 40) / 39.88 = 401.2 instead of (80 x 40) / 39.88 = 401.2. There is a note for this in the description

Thank you for the quick reply. I am a newbie printing and still trying to figure a lot of this out so I need to look in my machine and get my base setting first as how yours was reading 80 correct and 400 on the other one and you multiply that times 40 which is the 40 mm of the cube correct And I rewatch the video several times looking at how you were measuring the block and it looked like you measured the same axis twice. I will go back and rewatch things again.

My NP3 pro doesn’t give me the option to adjust that in the menu. I was able to do flow rate and z steps. I have travel options but my numbers look much higher that yours and I don’t want to mess it up.

@@rtlofishing Understood! When in doubt, leave it as it is. How accurate are your finished prints?

Thank you for watching!!!!

Thanks for the nice comment & thanks for watching!!

Hi, I'm just doing this pass myself as I speak (type), I think in V5.1 the menu has changed to: Calibration - Flow - Coarse tune and Pass 2.

@@MarcoS-dc2le You are correct!!!!

I get that! It's never fun when things go bad! I'll have some days where multiple printers seem to get an attitude and start failing at the same time!

A larger cube gives better results because it covers a larger area. The downside is the print time increases. There are x,y,z calibration axis models on Printables & thingiverse that span 100 mm in each direction are very useful for calibration.

Thank you for those kind words & thanks for watching these videos! It's very much appreciated!

I hope it helped! Thanks for watching!

Fusion 360 is a great tool!! Keep with it & thanks for watching!

It does get repetitive sometimes but I would rather provide a source for information over seeing people, especially the new folks struggling and getting yelled at in the online groups. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.

@ it’s a pleasure Bill 😊.

Sure do and I'll add it to list of upcoming videos!

Typically I would go to the larger one. I suppose I should've stayed with that.

Yes sir! Sure do and I'm running it!! How are you liking it so far?

@ hi Bill, I like it. After I did the flow calculation and the volume metric flow, I’m not getting any layer lines at all, just some fine cobweb stringing at times, otherwise all is great. Cheers, take care. 👍🏻

Awesome! Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!!!!

You got it! Thank you for watching!

Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!

Welcome to the world of 3D Printing. I also have an Ender 3 V3 Se, I love that printer! I've even recommended to friends and family members that were getting into 3D printing. Awesome sign off on the comment as "UK Plastic Pusher"! Love it! Thanks for the comment & thanks for watching!

I just added the kink for the mount and the roller to the video description. Thanks for watching!

​@@pushingplastic7445 that's awesome sure it will help others too. Continue what you doing really well appreciate it.

@@Romangal2701 Thank you, it's very much appreciated!

Awesome! Thanks for the comment and the kind words!! And thank you for watching!!!

I noticed that to. I think what they are trying to say is that leaving it at 0 let's the slicer algorithm decide.

Thank you and thanks for watching!!!!!!

Skips a line? In the z-axis? If the z axis, I would check to make sure that there is no debris on the vertical screw, or look for some interference that might be causing the filament to get hung up when it reaches a particular height. What printer are you using?

@ yea on the Z. Its so strange, i wish could post a picture but i will try that thank you. Awesome tip video

@@JayEm16 I had it once on my Ender, the filament was getting snagged. Then it would break free. Another thing to check is the filament spool and make sure that there is no burrs on the inside.

@ it seems to be happening with polyterra only which isnt as smooth. So going through bowden tube might be snagging it

​@@JayEm16 You didn't say which printer you had, so I don't know if this will help. But I got 2, Ender 3 V3 Plus printers and on one, I printed out the top rail spool holder, made an extension cable for the runout sensor and mounted it on top. Now, I have the filament on top, going right into the runout sensor and then directly into the extruder. No longer PTFE tube to cause resistance. Since then, the ONLY time I had a layer missed issue is when the particular filament I was using, sort of unwound a bit and snagged itself under its own filament. Once released, the prints go without issue. It would be good to know, specifically which printer you have. No matter which, one test you can do is to feed filament from the spool through the PTFE tube, but just before letting it go into the extruder, you pull the end of it to see if there's a lot of resistance. On my old printer, any resistance would cause this problem. On that printer, I had to take apart the extruder and stretch the spring so that the gear would be pushed tighter against the filament. This worked. ???

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the kind words & thanks for watching!

I have not switched!!! I actually use Orca, Bambu Studio, Creality Print & Cura depending on what Printer I'm using. I find all of them great slicers. A lot of my videos lately have been for Creality Print primarily because there is limited support for Creality Print.

Agreed! Thanks for comment and thanks for watching!

Yes, Some of them by using per model settings others I'm going to have to dig into. Sounds like a good idea for an up coming video?

Don't be fooled! During editing, I started cutting out the slice processing time. It makes the video a little faster by cutting out dead time watching the slicing process go from 0 to 100%. By doing this I can pack more information into a video rather than having the video sit there watching the slicing.

Awesome! I'm glad to hear that.! It was the motivation factor behind this channel!!! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!!!

Nice! I'm glad this video helped out! Recently I did a print with a shaft that that turns inside of a cylinder. I forgot to use my scarf seams so now as the shaft turns, I get a little bit of sticking where the z-seam from the shaft and cylinder meet. I got me wondering how it would've been affected with the seam at random. I'm guessing a lot more sticking? That scarf seam is great for appearance and mechanical movement! Thanks for the comment & thanks for watching!!!

@@pushingplastic7445 So here's something.... sigh... I don't know if this is a bug in CrealPrint 5.1.14 or something I may have done... which I doubt... So when something prints so nicely, I "save as project" so as to retain all the settings. So today, I need to print a 2nd copy of this for the other printer. I find the project file and open it! Only to find that not only are the object not there, but none of the settings change to what I had set (scarf stuff)! I had never ever had this kind of issue with Cura, so I don't know if it's a bug or not. So now, I'm going through your vid one more time, setting the numbers up again, but not only re-saving the project, but taking note in a spread sheet of these settings. I'm curious, have you ever seen this kind of bug in CP 5.1.xx?

Yup, found another bug! So I got all my settings entered so I clicked on the little "disk" icon to "save as" (process area) and saved it. When it returned from save, the stupid settings reverted to what they were before! So, I set them again, went to save as again, but just double click on the profile I just changed. This time, it saved it properly. I really like CP 5.1.xx, but the bugs have to be fixed for sure. Without someone like you guiding, I would have never discovered this at this level.

Some people swear by ironing. I've never been a big fan of it. Like you, I'm not getting consistent quality. Thanks for the comment & thanks for watching!

I get those vases from STLFlix.com. It's a subscription service. I bought their lifetime membership last year on a whim. At the time I thought I might go Etsy (still haven't), and figured the subscription would pay for itself. Thanks for the kind words and as always, thanks for watching and for the sub!!!!

Thanks for the kind words. The reason I didn't reprint the test tower is because during the test, Creality Print changes the settings as the tower grows in the Z axis. I could've printed something like a simple Cube before running the calibration and printing a second cube after and compared those two prints. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching!

You could always take the Generic PETG profile, run a temp tower & flow calibration. Get those dialed in. Do your retraction calibration and then check the Max Volumetric Flow if you're looking for speed.

Awesome! In Creality Print, click the logo in the upper left hand corner, select calibration and you'll find it! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!!!

@pushingplastic7445 dude thank you. Your no nonsense approach to this while simplifying the terminology for those of us who are not as technically trained is perfect. Very concise. Throughly informative. Absolutely following and goin through your whole catalog to kearn more.