Calibrating Pressure Advance In Creality Print
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.พ. 2024
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Get rid of those rounded corner, blobs and zits with pressure advance. In this video I'll explain what Pressure Advance is and show you how to use it in Creality Print. We'll get more dimensionally accurate prints in the process. This simple calibration doesn't take long and is well worth the time it takes to do it! @Creality3D @OFFICIALCREALITY3D - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
The OrcaSlicer (still) supports the line-style PA calibration
It sure does, my hope is that they put ii in Creality Print for the people that use it as their slicer.
These calibration will they differ between PLA and ABS etc thanks for great video
Yes, you'll want to run this for each type of filament you use.
Be cool to see the different pressure advance values between pla and tpu to see how much the softness effects it
The tower definitely needs to be looked at under optics
What about the Max flowrate and VFA test? Are those necessary?
I feel that they are. The more information you have to dial in your printer/material the better!
i did start 0 to 1, and 1 to 2, with 0.002 sequence and i dont find any difference, is very ugly the line, im using V3 SE, is pressure advance maybe disabled on marlin?
Marlin firmware uses Linear Advance, not Pressure Advance.
I am changing material settings, but when printing a calibration cube, nothing changes for me. According to measurements, my PA is 0.12. In my print tower, the transition is clearly visible. By default, it was set to 0.005. However, the problem with the seam remains the same when printing the cube. What could be the problem?
The seam will always be there. What we are looking at is the "other" three corners. You can manipulate the seam by relocating or setting the seam location to random to get it off of the corner. What I would like to see in a later version of Creality Print is the ability to move the location of the seam to the middle back.
Got links for the test print files you mentioned?
When you run the calibration, Creality Print will add and slice the file for you. No separate files are required!
creality 5.0 now supports PA lines
Yes it does!!!
@@pushingplastic7445 i just got a K1 max and your video helped me! I used creality 5.0 and just found the sweet spot for my glow in the dark pla ;)
Godzilla is not flying he is swimming fast .
But how fast can he run?
Cant seem to get the tower to work. The print looks the same from top to bottom, any ideas why?
If you are running a printer with LIDAR like the K1 Max You need to turn off motion advance from the printer console. It's under settings, AI Functions. When using Creality Print with Motion Advance turned on, the printer will try to control pressure advance for you. It works pretty good to. Another thing you could try it setting a wide range for the steps, start at 0, end at 1.5 or 2. The higher you go, the better chance of seeing a difference.
@@pushingplastic7445 im using the ender 3 v3 SE. Ive tried with the PA turned on and off. I see no difference.
I've also tried calibration cube with PA set to 0.01 and 0.07 with minimal to no difference what so ever. Not sure what im doing wrong here.
(Im using creality print)
@@gustavsvensson6877The Ender 3 V3 Se is running Marlin Firmware. Pressure Advance is aimed at printers running Klipper firmware like the k1, K1 max and Ender 3 V3 KE. But you can calibrate the Linear Advance for the Marlin based printers. Currently I don't have a video for this, I plan on doing one soon, I also have an Ender 3 V3 Se. Good printer! I'm sorry I didn't think to ask what printer you had in my previous reply. I do appreciate you watching, but again sorry for not asking what printer or firmware you were working with.
@@pushingplastic7445 would absolutely love a video on calibrating pressure advance with creality print on ender 3 v3 se!!!!
(One thing you might be able to cover on that video:
There is a setting in "manage printer" where you can choose "G-code Flavor". Does this mean you can change the firmware its running? Kinda confusing to me if it would be that simple.
Also weird to have that pressure advance calibration option when you have checked the ender 3 v3 se profile from start.
Big big thanks for covering this and answering questions since most channels out there only covers prusa, Cura, orca etc.
@@gustavsvensson6877 Printers can be flashed to run a different firmware version than what it came with. But it can only run one version at a time. Take the Ender 3 v3 se for example, it comes from the factory with Marlin pre-installed. All of the profiles in Creality Print for that printer are designed to run with the firmware it wsa made for, in our case Marlin. But you can reflash it to Klipper firmware. Or if you would hook it up to Creality's Sonic Pad or Nebula kit. Both of those are designed to increase the speed of your printers but convert the firmware from Marlin to Klipper. So in that case you would change the GCode flavor from Marlin to Klipper. I hope I worded that in a way that makes sense. If you have any questions about your printer or Creality Print, related to the video topic or not just drop a comment on any of my Creality Print(er) videos and I'll do my best to answer it. You're right, everyone seems to cover Cura, Orca or Prusa slicer. Ask for help online and they'll tell you switch slicers. I aim to provide information on all of those slicers. Don't let anyone ever tell you Creality Print isn't a good slicer!
I did not like the PA tower. I couldn't see where my changes were occurring.
I agree. There are times when I stare at that tower, turning it in the light looking at the reflections looking for a difference. I would really like to see the line flow test put into Creality Print. Thanks for the comment and thanks very much for watching.
I suppose it does not matter but you say in the video 14.24 but later say and write 15.24.
Opps, verbal slip! Good eye...and ear!