What is your trick for TPU on the K1 Max? I'm using 95A and can't get a good benchy. I have it dial in, until the chimney, then it's all squirly and mushed. Have tried at least 12 of them. My next attempt will be to print two of them at a time. Maybe that will give the chimney more time to cool. Idk
@@pushingplastic7445 I go directly into the extruder. I printed a stand that CHEP designed, no tube, and yes, down to 30mm/s. Whole benchy does fine until chimney. I have cooling cranked, too.
@@pushingplastic7445 I've tried them stock. No luck. Also, my temp test said 190 for my tpu and stock is like 230. I've tried both. Also tried classic and arachne wall.
Hi Bill. I am still confused, I printed this retraction calibration print (Creality calibration print) I had fine stringing all the way to the top. (I have done all the calibration tests you recommended to do first, all is good there, no layer lines at all, just slight stringing in places.) I am stumped as to what settings to change in the calibration. Take care, kind regards Gary
If it's slight stringing, or maybe it just looks like "fuzz", I would try lowering the Max Volumetric Speed just a little, maybe by one or two or lower the printing temperature just a few degrees, not a lot. Maybe 2 or 3 degrees.
@@pushingplastic7445 Hi Bill, thank you so much for your reply. I will try your suggestions; I am using eSun pla+ filament, the temp is 105 to 225, I've set the temp at 225 digress, the max temperature is 0.8 in the filament settings; In the Nozzle settings it's 0.4 when I checked, I've not changed any settings there, I'll on change the filament settings. I'm printing the 4 points test model you showed us, and did one print with the settings I already have and go from there. Thank you Bill, have a great day. It's 6pm Saterday 30 Nov 2024 here in Perth Western Australia. 🙂
Question: If I have an Ender 3 S1 and I updated the firmware and installed the high temp nozzle kit should I choose the S1 Pro as my printer or should I leave it as is?
I'm not familiar enough with the S1 vs the S1 Pro, what the hard differences might be. I know that a few years back after adding a few updates & firmware upgrade my original Ender 3 became an Ender 3 Pro. If the upgrades you made to your S1 are equal to what the S1 Pro has, then I would go with the Pro version.
Your videos have helped me tremendously. One thing I'm having issues with right now is that when I slice a piece where there's not supposed to be anything, its adding overhang to it. Any iedea why this is happening?
I've never had that happen and can't imagine what would cause something like that. Are you using Creality Print 5? If I had to guess (and it's only a guess) maybe the file is defective. Is it just one model or all models that you slice?
@@pushingplastic7445 I've only had it happen recently with some pieces with built in supports. The overhangs don't show when I bring the file in, but when I slice it, they're there. I think I'm just going to have to cut and sand them out then use some filler.
I got a ender 3 v3ke, thit exact what you said. Got the problem from 1.47sec at your video, very fine stringing bottem to top. Can you explain how to solve? Because that are more steps then this vid. This also try this vid in my printer but dont work retraction from 0.1 tot 1.5mms al keeps the same. Printing at 200degrees selcius. Will begin whit that lowering. But other things i must do?
Even thinking Creality print dont work... Now im at 185 degrees, lowered things like flowrate, pressure advantice. It stores the values, select that pla, next print is exact the same.... Thinking it dont youses my settings. Can go to cura but that prints are so slow...
You could always take the Generic PETG profile, run a temp tower & flow calibration. Get those dialed in. Do your retraction calibration and then check the Max Volumetric Flow if you're looking for speed.
Shoutout to PCBWay for sponsoring Pushing Plastic -- TY for making this video!
And a shoutout to you for mentioning PCBWay!
thanks for the video/lesson. It was your calibration videos that helped me started printing a month ago.
Nice! I hope they helped!!! Are you enjoying the hobby so far?
@@pushingplastic7445 yes, and i will as long as i can find something useful to print. It filled up my day since i also started learning cad.
before this video I couldnt even find the settings of retraction on the program
thank you for the video
Awesome! Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!!!!
nice work big fella very useful
Thanks men you are a hero
What is your trick for TPU on the K1 Max? I'm using 95A and can't get a good benchy. I have it dial in, until the chimney, then it's all squirly and mushed. Have tried at least 12 of them. My next attempt will be to print two of them at a time. Maybe that will give the chimney more time to cool. Idk
Printing slow! Also not using the bowden tube
@@pushingplastic7445 I go directly into the extruder. I printed a stand that CHEP designed, no tube, and yes, down to 30mm/s. Whole benchy does fine until chimney. I have cooling cranked, too.
@@funfun8095 Are you using one of the stock material profiles in Creality Print?
@@pushingplastic7445 I've tried them stock. No luck. Also, my temp test said 190 for my tpu and stock is like 230. I've tried both. Also tried classic and arachne wall.
@@pushingplastic7445 I've tried Bambu, too. Stock and my changes.
If you get a good chimney the first time, I'll be pissed and happy! LOL
Can you make a video on how to get the different style of support on the support setting
Hi Bill. I am still confused, I printed this retraction calibration print (Creality calibration print) I had fine stringing all the way to the top. (I have done all the calibration tests you recommended to do first, all is good there, no layer lines at all, just slight stringing in places.) I am stumped as to what settings to change in the calibration. Take care, kind regards Gary
If it's slight stringing, or maybe it just looks like "fuzz", I would try lowering the Max Volumetric Speed just a little, maybe by one or two or lower the printing temperature just a few degrees, not a lot. Maybe 2 or 3 degrees.
@@pushingplastic7445 Hi Bill, thank you so much for your reply. I will try your suggestions; I am using eSun pla+ filament, the temp is 105 to 225, I've set the temp at 225 digress, the max temperature is 0.8 in the filament settings; In the Nozzle settings it's 0.4 when I checked, I've not changed any settings there, I'll on change the filament settings. I'm printing the 4 points test model you showed us, and did one print with the settings I already have and go from there. Thank you Bill, have a great day. It's 6pm Saterday 30 Nov 2024 here in Perth Western Australia. 🙂
Question: If I have an Ender 3 S1 and I updated the firmware and installed the high temp nozzle kit should I choose the S1 Pro as my printer or should I leave it as is?
I'm not familiar enough with the S1 vs the S1 Pro, what the hard differences might be. I know that a few years back after adding a few updates & firmware upgrade my original Ender 3 became an Ender 3 Pro. If the upgrades you made to your S1 are equal to what the S1 Pro has, then I would go with the Pro version.
Your videos have helped me tremendously. One thing I'm having issues with right now is that when I slice a piece where there's not supposed to be anything, its adding overhang to it. Any iedea why this is happening?
I've never had that happen and can't imagine what would cause something like that. Are you using Creality Print 5? If I had to guess (and it's only a guess) maybe the file is defective. Is it just one model or all models that you slice?
@@pushingplastic7445 I've only had it happen recently with some pieces with built in supports. The overhangs don't show when I bring the file in, but when I slice it, they're there. I think I'm just going to have to cut and sand them out then use some filler.
My little pencil is not over to the right. Ive just downloaded newest version, I think. Im stringing so bad on my K1C.
Please , Make a vídeo for desmonstration remove suporte Easy on Creality print 5
Congratulation for your job
I got a ender 3 v3ke, thit exact what you said. Got the problem from 1.47sec at your video, very fine stringing bottem to top. Can you explain how to solve? Because that are more steps then this vid. This also try this vid in my printer but dont work retraction from 0.1 tot 1.5mms al keeps the same. Printing at 200degrees selcius. Will begin whit that lowering. But other things i must do?
Even thinking Creality print dont work... Now im at 185 degrees, lowered things like flowrate, pressure advantice. It stores the values, select that pla, next print is exact the same.... Thinking it dont youses my settings. Can go to cura but that prints are so slow...
Now im at 250 degrees, the same?
Me realizing there is no hyper PETG profile in creality print so I'm modifying the pla profile.
You could always take the Generic PETG profile, run a temp tower & flow calibration. Get those dialed in. Do your retraction calibration and then check the Max Volumetric Flow if you're looking for speed.