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Hi Joe Great video! I have a 1974 and had problems with my fuel system. This video was helpful in lack of the Bentley Manaual:-) I havent tryed it yet - but will certianly do. One question: I noticed your fuel pump did make som “noise” - or am I wrong? My pump sits just in front of left rear wheel and does not make that much noise when working in good order. The problem I had was fuel line on the suction side of my pump - it was deteoriated and some debris went into the pump inlet side which caused the problem I mentioned. The sound from my pump was getting louder and when reading Wayne Dempseys book “101 projects” I just thougth that the pump should be replaced. I did replace it - but at that point it was broken. They can not run without cooling of the fuel:-) My new pump (and new fuel line) works fine now - and my fuel filter is also replaced - it recived a lot of debri from the fuel line

Tengo un Porsche 911 SC 3.0 año 1978 presenta una falla tarda para encender una vez que que está caliente acelera bien lo apago y prende sin ningun problema pero cuando lo pongo en marcha pasando unos 100 MTS empieza a falla de nuevo pierde aceleración y potencia

There is nothing that click's. It is just a screw.

Excellent!

Thank you for this series of videos Joe; these were invaluable. It was daunting at first, but took my time. I finished my replacement sunroof seal job on my '78 SC last night without a hitch! My wind deflector was a three-piece like yours, which appears to be original to the car. I ended up using a dry PTFE lube on the sunroof cables and motor gear; hopefully that stays pretty clean. Thanks again!

Just watched the 3 parts to this sunroof project. Excellent work & congratulations on fixing it successfully. Hope re-adding the motor covers at the end helped to quieten down the sunroof motor noise. 👍👍👍

Great Video.. I put smoke into the Dizzy Retard line into front bottom of the Throttle valve, Plugged everything as you did, No smoke up top but I get smoke under the engine very close to the oil cooler, What could this be??? I've been using a lot of your video's and web site... Thanks

Did the smoke test. Discovered my pop off valve rubber O ring is leaking. Does anyone have a source or O ring size they can share?

Thank you for all your excellent and thoughtful videos(and website). I have an 83 SC as well and have to do this. On another note, my SC did not have an oxygen sensor, so I replaced that and the relay on the unit under the passenger seat, but almost seemed to run worse. I’m not running a cat, but stock muffler. Scratching my head on that. Replaced the WUR with a new one, but still doesn’t really start the way it should. Runs strong otherwise. Guess I have more work to do!

add an inline fuse for the windshield wiper motor, the motor is unfused when it is goes to park, if the motor jams it can burn up the wiring. I replaced the entire dash wiring harness on a 1976 912E.

God job, Joe 🎉

Very insightful walkthrough on the oil change. Just did mine yesterday & it was a breeze on my 71T. Thank you

Did you use OEM seals or aftermarket? where did you purchase them?

With all due respect, the outside plate won't fit through the hole unless I grind it down and then it compromises the ability of the plates to stay in place. I tried it with similar plates and the whole mechanism just pushed through. The option then is to buy a new door and not stay with the original metal. I decided to put a plate on the inside with an eye bolt through it and use a strong nylon tie to link the door and the frame. It's a simple solution and will only annoy the purists. After all, it's a 50 year old car.

@JoeEngineer I just picked up an 1983 911 SC Targa. Needs an oil change but when I start it to take it to "warm temperature" it smokes a bunch because of old owner pour too much oil. Any tips on how to go about it? Could I do an oil change at cold temps? Thanks in advance!

A German car car has degrees Celsius instead of Fahrenheit. Greatings from Bavaria.

Is it possible to remove the sunroof leather panel without removing the whole roof? Question because I would like to have it reupholstered. Thanks

I was wearing an effing scarf one morning when I checked the level in my Targa’s oil tank and my scarf fell and I almost pulled an Isadora Duncan

This series of videos are great. Everything has gone smoothly, though when fully assembled the roof only retracts about 3-4" and then binds and won't go further. When I remove the front bolts/guide brackets and provide a bit of upward force on the front of the roof while retracting everything runs smoothly. However when I reassemble everything, and try again it binds. So I'm thinking something is causing the roof to not tilt as much as needed to fully retract. Any ideas?

Thanks for the great video... helped me get started with the repair. Quick questions... how's the JB Weld repair on the cable holding up? I've got a similar issue where the cable and slider are in good condition, and I think things just seized/broke due to grease becoming quite sticky. $3 of JB sounds much better than $250-500 of new cables! Along these lines... what do you recommend for lubrication of the slides? Do you lubricate the cable as well?

Question: When you push the headlight washer switch on the dash, does the headlight pump only activate for a second or so? In other words, on my system, (1985), keeping my headlight washer switch depressed doesn't continuously activate the motor. It only pumps for a second. Then you need to push it again (or more times) to get water to come out the nozzles again. Is that normal? If that is the normal operation, then I think its because of the headlight washer relay.....If you depress and hold your headlight washer switch on the dash (while lights are on), does your pump continuously pump, or does it cutoff, and you have to push it again?

Hi Jose, all the tuning applies while the engine is warm?

Correct on the arguments of this thing. That’s a rabbit hole. They all seem to work the same way, except placement of vacuum fuel enrichment. Between the earlier ones and the 81 to 83

So the mixtrue screw only adjusts the flapper height up or down? Thanks for the video.

Joe thank you for all your videos. I have been on the identical journey with a 78 911sc I bought 4 years ago. your videos have been a huge help. Cheers from Canada.

Great video, where did you get the shop wiring diagram? Having issues with my power mirrors so those diagrams would come in handy. Thank you

Thanks a lot for this really useful video. Cheers from south of Paris (France).

lol, Unbolting the oil nut under the engine - I've done the exact same thing, trying to move my hand away quickly. good video - and honest. I let the nut drop straight in the pan and retrieve it later.

Thanks Joe. First video I have seen from you and that's a nice explanation. My car is a 1977 2,7 CIS and I seem to be having the same problems with a surging idol but only during the warm up cycle. During the first start up I get surging and the revs are really bouncing up and down until the car is up to temp. After that, the revs sit at a solid 950. This problem is really annoying and something that i have lived with for a few years, since I did the rebuild. Now, it needs to get sorted out. I think it is far too rich during the warm up cycle and it's like it's not getting enough air, but I am struggling to locate the issue. The Engine loom is new, the WUR & Fuel Distributer was rebuilt. The Thermo valve is new, the AAR is working correctly. All components in the system have power when the engine is running and seem to be functioning correctly. My fuel pressures are in spec etc etc. It's a real head scratcher but i will be using your videos as a guide to cross the t's and dot the i's! Thanks for positing.

If these are the carrera type pressure fed tensioners would you need to prime them like you do here. I thought the pressure fed tensioners don't need to be primed and you can just install them after you finish timing the cams.

i dont understand why you use the Netley as reference but you actually don't use their instructions... the way you do it seems like you are not really resetting it no?

So my car has a pretty significant amount of idle surge. I'm going to smoke test it this weekend, but looking ahead here, how do you set the idle at 900 for this test when it's surging from like 1400 down to 500 back to 1400? If it's rocketing back and forth pretty quickly, I'm not sure how you're supposed to dial that in.

Joe - Excellent tutorial on removal, repair and reassembly, of the sunroof. well done!!! I have a 73, steps and parts are the identical. Slight difference with the motor but works the same. Have passed on your page to a few 911 friends. 👍

So this doesn't test the oil breather lines or the brake booster line. Is it worth testing those by connecting the tester in those directions as well?

I have a 911SC 81´. Excelent video! Please more videos like this!! thank you very much!

$$$ to replace with original pieces.

Spot on!

Great video! I see you have 2 washers before you mount the brush plate. I'm missing the insulating washer. Do you know a source where I can find it?

This was amazing! Thank you for all the detail and video... (would you remember what temperature did you set your soldering iron to unsolder the solenoid? I hate to scorch it... ) but truly thank you!

Thank you for creating this video

Does anyone here know where the "3rd" bk/blue wire on terminal 58a ultimately goes? In this video it goes to a white connector and on up - but where it goes is not viewable. My car has this short wire with the connector, but it is hanging loose not connected to anything. I could not find any other unattached wire in the area - with the opposite terminal connector or without. Before I put everything back together it would be nice to know if I need to find the other side or if my car may just not have had that circuit. BTW, getting the switch out may not always be easy. As the video mentions, it is sometimes a problem getting the knob off of the switch. It can also be really hard to loosen the plastic retaining "nut" underneath the switch knob. This part is the black plastic piece that holds the switch in the dash. I tried several different tools and finally had to knock it loose with a hammer and a punch. Luckily it didn't break. Also my car is a Euro targa with a locking frunk. There is an apparently immovable metal plate right underneath the light switch that makes it tough to get a grip on the switch from the backside. If you keep after it, you can find a way to drop the switch. There is just enough room. Hope this helps.

excellent thanks

For the rear, I opted not to drill the fuse holder (mostly because I couldn't easily get the holder out). So I ended up getting the CDD Refuze one for the rear. Uses factory hole. No lights and uses slotted screws..yuck but does the job!

Did the same upgrade. Some of the wires were harder to put back because of the fuse board having less terminals and an integrated relay. Made it work by carefully pulling them from the wire loom tape. If you don't care for integrated relay (but please add an external one otherwise) and the integrated LEDs..maybe the refuze panel is easier to install. For the rear, I opted not to drill the fuse holder (mostly because I couldn't easily get the holder out). So I ended up getting the CDD Refuze one for the rear. Uses factory hole. No lights and uses slotted screws..yuck but does the job!

If folks want to address other electrical weak points in these cars..here's a list 1. Install headlight relays 2. Install 7.5 Amp fuse on front blower 3. Install 10 Amp fuse on AC blower in smuggler's box 4. Install 10 Amp fuses on each of the footwell blowers 5. Install 3 Amp fuse on engine bay light 6. Install 3 Amp fuse for dash lighting (this video)

Awesome content, very helpfull. I had exactly the same issue with my return spring on my 86 Targa - used a 1/4-20 carraige bolt (1") from HD. I did have to file a bit off the shoulder and grind some off the head to make it work. Didn't have the big tweeter hole so it took some time to get the motor off. had to use a wrench on the top most mount as the socket wouldn't get there using the standard speaker hole. My original problem was the glass falling out and dropping down into the door and when I was trying to get it out the motor wouldn't move the regulator, the wires to the switch got hot which was not good. So a little advice for anyone that might be scared to do this, I split the motor from the gearbox, cleaned it all up, regreased it and it started running again. After that I had a problem getting the motor back on which turned out to be a small bushing inside the gearbox that the drive shaft was supposed to be located in. It must have moved a little which I corrected with a drill bit. evrything looks OK again....re-assembling, let you know how that goes

Did you have to crimp anything or just plug it in and heat shrink it?

Good Job... excellent instructions.

Great video! If one doesn’t have a vacuum port for power steering, where else would you attach the smoke tester, top of the WUR perhaps? Thanks

Thanks for the info and a walkthrough. Have you thought of velocity stacks on rudder intakes?