TH-cam's algorithm must be slipping. This is exactly the kind of channel I'm into! Just tore down the drivers door of my 82 SC for an identical issue. The window would go down but not up, bad switch and the spring stop that you replaced with the carriage bolt was also floating around inside my door. Subscribed and looking forward to more of your content. THANKS!
As a follow up. Without the hole for the tweeter hacked into the door skin there wasn't a way to get to all three bolts in the motor up with the bottom rail fixed in place. I left everything loose, got the motor on but not tight, used the window switch to move the motor up and down so I could get to all 3 bolts, then attached the rail and finally the regulator. Thanks again for the video. It made an annoying job a little easier.
Awesome content, very helpfull. I had exactly the same issue with my return spring on my 86 Targa - used a 1/4-20 carraige bolt (1") from HD. I did have to file a bit off the shoulder and grind some off the head to make it work. Didn't have the big tweeter hole so it took some time to get the motor off. had to use a wrench on the top most mount as the socket wouldn't get there using the standard speaker hole. My original problem was the glass falling out and dropping down into the door and when I was trying to get it out the motor wouldn't move the regulator, the wires to the switch got hot which was not good. So a little advice for anyone that might be scared to do this, I split the motor from the gearbox, cleaned it all up, regreased it and it started running again. After that I had a problem getting the motor back on which turned out to be a small bushing inside the gearbox that the drive shaft was supposed to be located in. It must have moved a little which I corrected with a drill bit. evrything looks OK again....re-assembling, let you know how that goes
Nice video but removing frame makes it much easier, right order is frame out glass out than Window regulator out, sometimes it is better to do one more step it still would be faster to do, thanks
you can ..and should..clamp the spring-center-pivot-axel directly in the vice facing away from you. Make sure it is clamped tightly and the window-arms are not stressed or involved, then use the vice grips to put it behind the new bolt. I then added a LARGE FLAT washer and another nut to hold the spring on.
Great video. Helped me a lot even though mine is a 993. Same setup. My reason for the job was that the cadmium plated rails at the bottom of the window was corroded. On passenger side it was coming apart due to the corrosion so the el. window hoist could not operate. The rail is a little bit of moisture trap with the rubber sleeve between it and the window. Anyway i found that it was a lot less fiddely to get the whole hoist mechanism installed including fixing the lower anchor rail and then slide the rail onto the sissor arms. Then i put the rubber sleve onto the bottom of the window (put a little bit of dish washer fluid on the outside of the rubber for a little bit less friction when pushing the rail on). Actually i used the electric hoist to push up, slowly and carefully to make sure the rail hit correctly at the bottom if the window. Slide right on.
Thanks Joe, this video helped me a lot this weekend to refurbish the window regulator. Mine had the same problem: spring retainer slot broke off and couldn't operate the window anymore without blowing a fuse. Hope to see more videos soon.
The rail which holds the glass to the unit is a weak point. Over time each of mine rusted and the window fell inside the door ~ thats how i knew they rusted they are held in a channel with a rubber strip which echo's the shape of the 'c" channel.
Hey Joe, Great video and I like the detail... helps me to slow down! haha... Get the rest of the internal door fixed too! I am having similar problems with my '87 Targa; alarm, door locks. Too many years on this Targa and she needs some love.
Hi Joe, Love your videos and blogs! I couldn't get my SC to where it is now without them. Would love to see some suspension "How To" vids! Shocks and struts and tie rods and bump steer are on my list! Thanks again and keep em' comming!
Hi, great video, I have a '81sc targa. I think those stops that prevent the window going up too far must be missing or misadjusted on my car. My windows are rolled up all the way and the top edge goes above the frame of the little fixed triangular window next to it. Now neither window will come down. I believe the glass just sits on top of the little rollers on the scissor arms and gravity lets the glass down. So I believe it may just be wedged now. My mechanic suggested I just get something flat and push the glass down until it is free of whatever is binding it and sits back on the scissor arms. Since both windows started doing this at the same time (and I did a very rare thing of rolling them up at the same time) I thought it might be a fuse but the fuses all look good. I'm afraid to push down on that glass but it also makes sense enough to me. Do you think this binding is the likely culprit and that good old brute force is the next step?
I have the issue that the fuse blows if I move both windows at the same time. One by one is no problem. You think greasing them would fix it? Thanks for your videos, they help me a lot!
I would try to remove as much friction as possible from the regulators. Mine keeps burning out passenger switches on the driver door so I need to go through the passenger regulator to make sure there is as little mechanical resistance as possible then go through that whole circuit and make sure it is sound.
Hi Joe, great video. Couple questions: 1. assuming my door does not have that big tweeter/speaker hole that your door has, is it going to be possible to maneuver the regulator/motor into a position so that the motor nuts can be accessed from the big speaker hole on the bottom of the door? 2. according to the Pelican Technical Article instructions, they say to roll the window down first, remove the motor from the regulator, then slide the window up and tape as you did. Your way makes more sense, as with the window up, there will be less tension on the spring. Your thoughts?
Short answer is yes it is possible, but kind of fiddly. If I had a third hand I could reach in and rotate the regulator down into the right position to then attach the motor and mesh the gears in the correct position to bolt the motor to the door. Maybe 2 hands inside and a helper putting in the screws finger tight to mount to the door. Someone above mentioned removing the window frame itself to make it easier, so that is also an option.
Thanks a lot for this really useful video. Cheers from south of Paris (France).
TH-cam's algorithm must be slipping. This is exactly the kind of channel I'm into! Just tore down the drivers door of my 82 SC for an identical issue. The window would go down but not up, bad switch and the spring stop that you replaced with the carriage bolt was also floating around inside my door.
Subscribed and looking forward to more of your content. THANKS!
As a follow up. Without the hole for the tweeter hacked into the door skin there wasn't a way to get to all three bolts in the motor up with the bottom rail fixed in place. I left everything loose, got the motor on but not tight, used the window switch to move the motor up and down so I could get to all 3 bolts, then attached the rail and finally the regulator.
Thanks again for the video. It made an annoying job a little easier.
Thanks for demystifying the innards of the door for us. I have some more confidence now.
The window plastic-stop can be flipped over, just the white part, so if its worn on one side like mine was it kind of 're-sets' it to new.
Awesome content, very helpfull. I had exactly the same issue with my return spring on my 86 Targa - used a 1/4-20 carraige bolt (1") from HD. I did have to file a bit off the shoulder and grind some off the head to make it work. Didn't have the big tweeter hole so it took some time to get the motor off. had to use a wrench on the top most mount as the socket wouldn't get there using the standard speaker hole. My original problem was the glass falling out and dropping down into the door and when I was trying to get it out the motor wouldn't move the regulator, the wires to the switch got hot which was not good. So a little advice for anyone that might be scared to do this, I split the motor from the gearbox, cleaned it all up, regreased it and it started running again. After that I had a problem getting the motor back on which turned out to be a small bushing inside the gearbox that the drive shaft was supposed to be located in. It must have moved a little which I corrected with a drill bit. evrything looks OK again....re-assembling, let you know how that goes
Nice video but removing frame makes it much easier, right order is frame out glass out than Window regulator out, sometimes it is better to do one more step it still would be faster to do, thanks
Ill try that next time I am in there!
Nice repair!
you can ..and should..clamp the spring-center-pivot-axel directly in the vice facing away from you. Make sure it is clamped tightly and the window-arms are not stressed or involved, then use the vice grips to put it behind the new bolt. I then added a LARGE FLAT washer and another nut to hold the spring on.
Great video. Helped me a lot even though mine is a 993. Same setup. My reason for the job was that the cadmium plated rails at the bottom of the window was corroded. On passenger side it was coming apart due to the corrosion so the el. window hoist could not operate. The rail is a little bit of moisture trap with the rubber sleeve between it and the window. Anyway i found that it was a lot less fiddely to get the whole hoist mechanism installed including fixing the lower anchor rail and then slide the rail onto the sissor arms. Then i put the rubber sleve onto the bottom of the window (put a little bit of dish washer fluid on the outside of the rubber for a little bit less friction when pushing the rail on). Actually i used the electric hoist to push up, slowly and carefully to make sure the rail hit correctly at the bottom if the window. Slide right on.
Thanks Joe, this video helped me a lot this weekend to refurbish the window regulator. Mine had the same problem: spring retainer slot broke off and couldn't operate the window anymore without blowing a fuse. Hope to see more videos soon.
The rail which holds the glass to the unit is a weak point. Over time each of mine rusted and the window fell inside the door ~ thats how i knew they rusted they are held in a channel with a rubber strip which echo's the shape of the 'c" channel.
@ 40:33 - 43:01 Motor end IN first then arms. Worked for me! Also, I removed my watch ...
pure. youtube. gold. thank you!
Hey Joe, Great video and I like the detail... helps me to slow down! haha... Get the rest of the internal door fixed too! I am having similar problems with my '87 Targa; alarm, door locks. Too many years on this Targa and she needs some love.
Thank you so much!!
Very helpful thank you
Outstanding work and video.
Great video. Thanks. (Bob from Houston using wife’s account. Lol.)
Great job!!! This helped me greatly.
Hi Joe, Love your videos and blogs! I couldn't get my SC to where it is now without them. Would love to see some suspension "How To" vids! Shocks and struts and tie rods and bump steer are on my list! Thanks again and keep em' comming!
Thanks for the kind words! Suspension is on my to-do list as well!
Hi, great video, I have a '81sc targa. I think those stops that prevent the window going up too far must be missing or misadjusted on my car. My windows are rolled up all the way and the top edge goes above the frame of the little fixed triangular window next to it. Now neither window will come down. I believe the glass just sits on top of the little rollers on the scissor arms and gravity lets the glass down. So I believe it may just be wedged now. My mechanic suggested I just get something flat and push the glass down until it is free of whatever is binding it and sits back on the scissor arms. Since both windows started doing this at the same time (and I did a very rare thing of rolling them up at the same time) I thought it might be a fuse but the fuses all look good. I'm afraid to push down on that glass but it also makes sense enough to me. Do you think this binding is the likely culprit and that good old brute force is the next step?
I have the issue that the fuse blows if I move both windows at the same time. One by one is no problem.
You think greasing them would fix it?
Thanks for your videos, they help me a lot!
I would try to remove as much friction as possible from the regulators. Mine keeps burning out passenger switches on the driver door so I need to go through the passenger regulator to make sure there is as little mechanical resistance as possible then go through that whole circuit and make sure it is sound.
Hi Joe, great video. Couple questions:
1. assuming my door does not have that big tweeter/speaker hole that your door has, is it going to be possible to maneuver the regulator/motor into a position so that the motor nuts can be accessed from the big speaker hole on the bottom of the door?
2. according to the Pelican Technical Article instructions, they say to roll the window down first, remove the motor from the regulator, then slide the window up and tape as you did. Your way makes more sense, as with the window up, there will be less tension on the spring. Your thoughts?
Short answer is yes it is possible, but kind of fiddly. If I had a third hand I could reach in and rotate the regulator down into the right position to then attach the motor and mesh the gears in the correct position to bolt the motor to the door. Maybe 2 hands inside and a helper putting in the screws finger tight to mount to the door. Someone above mentioned removing the window frame itself to make it easier, so that is also an option.
How do you hold the window up on a convertible or targa?
You could try a woodworking clamp with rubber pads like the one I used in 58:56. Just be very careful.
Hey Joe, thanks for the video. Quick question. On my 74 carrera the window is down and won’t go back up. Got any idea on how to deal with this?
Is grease not required? Or did I miss that part?
I did not grease it in the video just briefly mentioned it at the end.
@@JoeEngineer cool, very very good video btw. Thanks for taking the time to document this.