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I thought to myself, if he can do that in 19 minutes, that's worth a sub. You earned it.

Excellent video! I’m in the planning stages of my retirement layout. I have a dedicated 20x30 addition to my shop for the layout. I’m slowly accumulating everything I’ll need for hand-laying track. My current plan is to have the bench work to be completed in a 5 year timeframe so I can begin laying track when I retire. It’ll be a big two level layout with gentle curves for running large rigid frame brass 4-8-4s and articulated steamers.

Anxiously waiting new vids and updates!!!

Hope you're doing ok it's been a while.

I got this far in your series of videos and then I noticed that this video is a year old. I guess you are no longer making videos, sad, I was enjoying your build. Hope everything is OK.

Thank you ever so much. By this video you've finally convinced me to tackle those last two missing 3w-turnouts for my staging yard. Inspiring video. 👍 Allow me one remark: that "background" music was so loud (and terrible) that for the sake of my nerves I turned off the sound completely and followed you through the captions. Less is always more. I've left a subscription anyway, you're worth it. Well done!

Yes... don't use the music...

Thank you for great presentation. My forth layout will be better because of you.... Will be following you... and a donation... Jeff

My Deek Robot Motor Shield does not seem to have visible connection between either side of the VIN Connect solder pads…nor do the two SNS0 or SNS1 sets above. Is part of the path wishing the PCB itself and getting rid of the little barb that is not seemingly connected what is needed?

👍👍👍

OH! So that's how you use the grabiron hole thing. Now what exactly do i need for that again? I have some tichy kits im working on

Thanks. I’m getting my nerve up.

The rail bender is a work of art!

Amazing work!

When you started using the table saw, my brain panicked for a second at the idea of the board kicking back and being flung straight through your sliding glass door

Like a few other commenters on this channel; I'm going to have to call BS on your intro and being an amateur!!! Seriously though, some epic designs and implementation to this kit bash! Extremely well done and gave me lots of insight/points to consider. I WILL be plagiarizing some of your work LOL. Well done mate!

Looking great!

Like the weathering process! Coming along nicely!

Very nice, took notes! I like the way you were able to kit bash the three and create that covered section.

Hi! Do you have a link to the pin vice and bits you use?

Looks good. Curved joint tip: always solder with staggered joints (especially on curves) and also solder with track 'Straight' then when laying it can curve it. Where did you get the cardboard-light/heavy art sheet to create your templates? Definitely larger than a cereal box LOL. Thanks.

Well done series, took notes. Very elegant and not 'out of the box' looking at all. Look forward to catching up on other videos you have!

Great update, you are truly bringing out a new dimension to weathering an otherwise drab, out of box Walthers kit - well done!

Great build to date! (I'm catching up after joining). Have you noticed any issues with that extra thin super glue? Any bright spots or smudging? If so, how did you resolve? Thanks.

I'm going to build a yard and have discovered Central Valley tie strips for branchlines/yards. The mainline is Atlas code 83, but the yard will be in code 70 ME rails. I don't feel confident about building my own switches, so I think I will use code 83s that I own with 83 to 70 transition pieces. I enjoyed your video. Thanks! Go Chiefs!

Beautiful job!

At a glance you need heavier servos.

Great kit bash. I've got an Atlas lumber yard to build. Cheers from eastern TN

I got a can of red oxide primer that works well for my boxcar and ore car red. It is lacquer based which really adheres to the plastic and after thinning, it flows through the airbrush nicely. I always use a sanding stick and sand off the bolsters and top of the trucks after painting so it moves freely. Cheers from eastern TN

Sheesh, ever heard of CLOSE UPS?? Need a magnifying glass to see what you're doing.

The push stick is definitely a good idea. If you see this, The New Yankee Workshop is now on TH-cam. It’s still the same original episodes, but good safety techniques. He talks about shop safety first in every episode, and for good reason.

Drew, I hope all is ok, we would love to know what you have been up too. Cheers Rob

Do you think that other wood than balsa can be used for spiking ? Thanks a lot. Nice work.

When I saw the political propaganda on the table, I stopped watching.

I'm having difficulty understanding why you used L-girder construction if you're laying your tracks on styrofoam. Is there a specific reason, or is it just that you saw or read something recommending L-girder construction? If I'm not wrong, the advantage of L-girder construction lies in the way it allows for an at-will placement of joists, which in turn allow for an at-will placement of risers to support a roadbed. (The roadbed might be either cookie-cutter style or spline.) If you're not using a roadbed separate from your scenery base, then I don't see the point of the L-girders. Or am I missing something?

Sure do wish there were more videos coming. I was really in to this channel. I hope everything is ok and it's not over with.

Oh man, using pan pastels is way easier than doing all the layers of brush paint, airbrushing and washes. Like less than 25% of the time investment.

Great video...i am about to install a SoundTraxx decoder into a Bachmann 2-8-0, although it will probably be a TSU-1100 (I have 3 other steam locos with the 1100). The hardwiring might take a bit more work, but seems "cleaner" in the end. Also plan to upgrade the headlight to LED with a 1k ohm resistor. Any insight into getting access to the headlight?

Curious about your screwdriver setup. Who is the manufacturer

How did you make that homemade rail bender?

I just noticed you bought the Y turnouts instead of buikding them. Any particular reason?

Have you ever had an issue with the track not holding? Lots of folks who hand lay their own track seem to use homasote or plywood for sub roadbed, but I like your foam approach.

That wet pallet is pretty handy. Im going to have to get one.

Amateur???? Please! I’m as amateur as it comes to modeling, and I’m nowhere close to your expertise!

I just finished a scratch build of lumber drying & storage shed in HO scale. The wife even liked my results. After I watched you build a Tichy Train Group flat car I had to build one too. Mine came out great and I even painted every board on the deck a different shade of brown. Cheers from eastern TN

Looking forward to seeing how things have progressed.

Man I’m glad I watched this! I was going to build myself a double slip! But I see I need to master building turn outs first!

Why do you play background music and then try to talk over it? I just don't understand that concept. The music distracts from your narration. For HO scale corrugated metal I got a piece of plastic .040 corrugated metal and use it as a mold. Put a drop or 2 of dish detergent and add a little water (to release the surface tension). Then add a generous amount of Elmer's glue (PVA) and wait for it to dry. Then add another layer on top and wait for it to dry. Then CAREFULLY peel off the glue layer and paint it as you would any corrugated metal. For O scale corrugated metal I got me one of those toothpaste squeezers from Amazon (only $9.99) and save every beer can after I drink it, cut it up with my tin snips and run it through the toothpaste squeezer. Now I've got more O scale corrugated metal than I know what to do with. I guess from now on all my scratch built O scale buildings will have corrugated siding and corrugated roofs, LOL! Cheers from eastern TN