Hand building Turnouts for a Model Railroad.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ธ.ค. 2021
- In this episode, I begin building turnouts of my model railroad using Fast Tracks jigs and tools. This is my first time building turnouts, really my first time doing any real track work. I run into a few challenges along the way and get used to some new tools and skills. Hopefully, as my skills develop I can create some turnouts that will outperform commercially made turnouts.
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From a railroad track engineer besides a modeller, if you use the "lead" dimension of PS to Frog Point for the number of the turnout you will be very close to where the frog should be (this is how 1:1 turnouts are laid out). Most standard turnout plans from the different railroads will give a "stock" angle or the "heel-of-switch" width or set-over for the switch point length, this angle starts in the stock rail (sometimes called out on the standard plan) at about 6 to 8 inches ahead of the switch point. By doing this you should not need to file a notch into the head of the stock rail to hide the switch point from flanges. Most switch points out of the main line will be 16 feet 6 inches, while some yard and industry switches will have 15 foot 0 inches switch points. Up to No 7 TO will usually have 15 foot points, No 7 through No. 10 will have 16 ft 6 in points, No 11 through No 14 will have 22 foot 0 in points, No 15 through No 20 will have 30 foot 0 in points, and No 24 and over you will need to check the standard plans as the frogs will usually have movable frog points and welded in switch points. You also need to check into these new "jump frogs" some railroads are installing on the main lines to go to industries (these have been introduced since I left the industry).
Wow, Roy, thanks for all the great information.
I've used FastTracks fixtures to build Z, N and now S scale turnouts. They're fantastic and well worth the price if you're going to do more than 5 of the same turnout. You did a great job for your first go at it!!
Regarding that point rail: Use some needle nose pliers and mash the point so that it flushes up to the stock rail. It may or may not look too great, but if the point catches the flange of the wheel, it'll track okay.
Soldering tip: Apply the heat on the opposite side of the joint. Capillary action plus the heat will draw the solder between the rail and tie, creating a stronger joint and reducing the tendency to have little lumps of solder.
Thanks for all the tips.
I am very sorry about your grandmother. I lost my wife of 50 years last July, but we had great times together.
You can even make curved turnouts or odd-numbered ones if you need to do so. Technically, railroad turnouts have a straight section through the switch and through the frog so a turnout curve is not a true curve through the switch to beyond the frog.
My condolences for your loss, Roy.
Merry Christmas, I'm thinking seriously about going the same route for any future turnouts thanks to inflation and the large price increase of Peco turnouts. So thanks for the video.
Pilobond (sp) works great on straight track sections. On curves if you don't have a really good seal between rail and the ties it can come loose. Reapply heat and the glue starts to sink into the ties until it won't stick at all. You are going to want to spike your rail or use printed circuit board ties.
Got a good laugh about your daughters bedroom. My kids are grown, but I can relate.
Thanks for the tips, Jack! I'm still thinking through my process for track laying and have been (and will continue to) consult a number of different resources. Practical experience is always helpful.
Nice job. thanks for sharing. On that point you didn't like? Carefully use your flat file and clean it up until a wheel rides smoothly through it. And then you can use the turnout anywhere you will like.
Thanks for the tip! I'll see what I can do.
I am currently starting to do this same process. Both Fast Tracks and Oak Hill make great jigs to help with the construction process. I have purchased from both of them. That turnout looks great for your first one. Sorry for the loss of your grandmother.
Thank you for your condolences. I haven't seen the Oak Hill jigs. I'll check them out too.
Thanks for sharing, I'll hang onto this for future use.
Fast track's how to videos are a great resource too.
Congrats on making your first turnout. You did an excellent job and I am not sure I would do any better. By the time you paint your ties and rails (rust) you won't see those solder joints. Excellent job Drew! Oh and I know how it goes to be involved with kids in scouting, I was just sworn in as our troop's new scoutmaster 😳....lol. - Jason
Thanks, Jason. I've got almost 20 more to build, so I might be good at it by the time I'm done. I'm Scoutmaster for my daughter's troop. If your local council offers it, I highly recommend attending a Wood Badge course.
@@WhiteRiverLine and Train Freak If you have to go to another council, attend a Wood Badge Course. I have been Scoutmaster, Asst. SM, Troop Committee Member, Den Committee Member, and helped out at camp. I had one son get Eagle and the other one almost. Good times. I was offered a job as Camp Ranger to keep my wife as Camp Nurse. Wood Badge is the leadership equivalent of Eagle.
@@royreynolds108 Our council typically runs 2 WB courses a year, so we are fortunate here. I was a participant about 6 years ago and helped staff one about 3 years ago. It is excellent training.
Excellent video. This will be very useful reference for when I build some custom turnouts. Your video presentation is very professional and informative! Take care and happy holidays :)
Glad it was helpful!
Sorry for your loss, man. Nice vid. Building a turnout would be a major learning curve 😳
Really thinking of giving this a try. On sidings first for sure!
It isn’t as difficult as I anticipated.
excellent video! I really want too try these. Thanks for sharing!
You should give them a shot. With these jigs, they are much easier to build than I anticipated.
Great episode I think you did well for the first handmade turnout will be interesting to see how it performs on the layout
Yes, I'm going to pick up some flex track soon and test it out.
@@WhiteRiverLine what type? And are you using code83?
@@paulc1964 yes, code 83. I’ll probably just get something cheap for my testing. Atlas probably.
Is that tube Pliobond as “stringy” as Walthers Goo? I’ve never learned to like Goo because it’s so stringy and it seems to dry on the surface as soon as it exits the tube, making it challenging and messy to work with! I’d say you did a good job on that first turnout, and I’m sure by now you’re cranking them out left and right (pun intended!)!
The Pliobond can be a little stringy at times, but not so much that I've gotten frustrated with it. It dries in about 10 or 15 minutes. I haven't used Walthers Goo before so I can't really compare the two.
@@WhiteRiverLine It’s terrible stuff, but I guess somebody buys it or they wouldn’t continue making it!
How about a heat gun to speed up the drying?
That might work
Fast Tracks makes excellent products but they’re really pricy. While they may not look as good it’s more cost effective to use commercially made turnouts for smaller layouts.
Yes, the cost of the tools did give me pause. I probably wouldn't have built my own if a generous friend hadn't offered me the loan of his tools.