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hi buddy. just wondering using the clear tube method. what height dose the fuel come up to in the bowl. is it right up to the gasket or lower.

regards the duplex primary drive chain adjustment - I think you went the wrong direction ? Worth checking the clutch basket - if you remove it at the rear you may find damper springs in slots designed to smooth out clutch engagement much like on car clutch plates. I had a VT500 that rattled on rickover badly and it was due to slip and wear in the springs / cavity they sit in. Temp fix i did was to fill the cavities with araldite glue to make it all solid and solved the noise. not saying you do that but try rotating the clutch basket each way to see if there is slack before removing.

I'm not a welder, but, as a retired mechanic, I've done my share over the years. If you find you are burning through thin materials with a continuous weld, one thing you can try is pulsing it about 2 seconds at a time, with a pause before moving on. This allows the weld pool to cool a little and solidify before you do the next section.

Looking really good Ryan, at this stage in your welding career I would say you are doing above average. Even with 40plus years of ( uncoded) welding it's never a breeze. I like the angle too it looks just right. None of this is going to happen overnight so it's good to attack it in little bites. Love the project. Keep on keeping on buddy. Peace and love brother 👍 ✌️ ❤️

Yes, definitely got the correct angle and didn't need any more cutting. Welding... I feel your pain, that's one thing I struggle with, it just takes a lot of messing about with settings and loads of practice. Not sure if you can use argon with your welder but it definitely helps, even when using flux cored wire. I have just been experimenting with silicon bronze mig wire on my new project but that's even more difficult to get correct settings The good thing about bronzing is it's brilliant at filling gaps and doesn't need as much heat (less chance of blow through).

Süper bir makina banada nasip eder inşallah

looking proper good Ryan - really enjoying watching you try all these things 👍

Well done! Use a medium coarse sandpaper (somewhere between 120-240 grits) on an orbital sander (same as you use for wood), and after that use a scotch-brite hand pad over the whole seat loop. After a couple of minutes you'll end up with a matte and very smooth finish 😊

Well done looking so good. 😀

Let the grinder and paint be the welder you ain’t. Wear your glasses when you weld. Use a shop light to illuminate the area so you can see it with your helmet on.

As the saying goes "the grinder makes me the welder I wish I was". I'm at a similar level to you with welding, stick with it and well done for having a go. You're already way ahead of all those who haven't tried.

That word JUST can be annoying sometimes, I think you’re going down the right path and I’m sure with your patience and attitude it’ll come good , I like the vice moment, Brilliant 🤘

Hi ya could you tell me if I can use a cm125 engine in my superdream

Sounds like a good compromise. I think the point people were making about increasing the shock length was more to do with moving the top mount up (keeping swingarm in the same position) rather than increasing travel. Hope it all goes well.

Reminds me of myself in the garage 😂I have two brothers who are mechanics who never help so I keep learning the hard way.God loves a tryer... keep going you have a great attitude.

Great work Ryan. As stated in one of the late "quick bikes chanel" vids the subframe needs professional welding or you run the risk of it letting go and wedging you between tire and frame with fairly catastophic results and injuries. My suggestion would be for you to tack it in place once your seat hoop is sorted and have it professionally welded probably with TIG ( not saying you can't weld it, but as a beginner welder i don't think it is a good idea purely from the safety angle). Also with shocks longer doesnt alway mean more travel. Internet searching should give you an answer once you know length eye to eye and travel if you decide to move shock mounts. In the end its your bike so build it to suit yourself, stay safe and continue the journey.

Happy to see my drawing was helpful 😊 It will be exiting to see how it looks with the original frame “arms” are chopped off

Love your attitude to the job but don't underestimate your capabilities, you have the tools to do most of what you want, all you need is the confidence and creativity.. if you think you have cocked it up the you can just do it again.. there's always someone that can help.

that does look a hell of a lot better, phew! annnnnndddd relaaaaax

Nice one I think that would look better. Plus you can hide the battery and electrics in a battery box under the seat. Do you know if the guy who done the photo is running pod filters if so what sort and what jetting is he running

I think you are taking the right and realistic approach - You want to be riding Sid - not just looking at an incomplete project in your garage. I follow @kihestad having watched your channel and he has created some wondersul projects - it is great that he continues to provide consultancy. Remember this project can be a living thing, so you do have options for change later after living with 'Sid' for a while. Press on!

Hi Ryan, i like the look of the rear end now with what you are doing. You may need to give consideration for the rear indicators if you are going to ride it on the road to and from the green lanes. Have you considered about infilling the gap between the seat hoop and the frame ? This could be a piece of metal or a home made fibreglass section, a new skill to master. it great to watch your thinking aloud and stay positive as the bike is coming along nicely.

Great work Ryan, sounds like you've found the perfect solution, Must get started on my new project & it's not an old honda this time lol.

Ryan find the episode of shed and buried, sam and Henry turn a bsa bantam into a scrambler ,sam makes a cut in the rear hoop bends it up and welds it up

To all those people suggesting he cut off the whole rear end and reconstructing it: are there not implications for registering it? Is an engineer’s report needed? It’s one thing welding on a seat hoop, but totally rebuilding the rear subframe is an another thing altogether.

Glad to see you lowering it Ryan .. phew 😜

The problem with how it looks all stems from the ugly pressed steel rear frame, still be there even if you cut it short. Be bold, cut it off completely! Either make a new sub frame (difficult) or get a bolt on subframe from another bike (Bsa Bantam, Triumph Tiger Cub or similar), weld on lugs to the Honda frame to bolt on the subframe. I would do the latter if it was my bike. Longer shocks if you can't get enough travel. Universal plastic rear mudguard, universal trials seat, universal light unit & number plate mounting. Problem solved.

Build you own sub frame would be the best way but you need to make sure it's welded properly as it would be taking the load from the rear suspension. Failing that I'd cut the pressed frame sections back closer to the shock mounts and angle the support pieces to the hoop at the same angle as the bottom frame tubes. Also make you own seat rather than compromise with the one you have. I'd ditch that mudguard as well. There are rear plastic guards with light fittings available for off road bikes. Should be able to find one with number plate mounts as well.

How about cutting off the rear subframe where it joins the tubular frame and weld in your piece of U tube with the seat on top. Make some shock mounts so they are vertical to give you extra height and use some tube sections to triangulate back down to the existing frame. Good luck!

Have a look at some photos of Triumph desert sleds it may give you some ideas.

Ditch that ugly original subframe and start fresh including new shock mounts ( and maybe longer shocks). Applaud what you are trying to do, but even if you succeed it will look piecemeal and not an integrated unit. You might need some professional welding once you work it out. Keep trying you will get there.

You'd be better off building the subframe to the hoop rather than trying to accommodate both unless you put a flat tracker seat unit on to cover the gap..

I think Sid’s tank is from a CB400 Hondamatic.( automatic Gearbox) which came out around the same time as the CB250T.. I believe the same thank was used on the US version of the CB250/400T in the US which they called the Hawk.

I'm with woody Ryan. I think the only way forward is to build the subframe. loose the original and build your own from tube and weld it. I've tried to use original subframes b4 and ended up chopping it all off because oem frames are ugly and hidden by plastic . Custom bikes are usually naked and minimal and tubular. I know it looks and sounds daunting but you can do it. And the end product will be really good. You don't want to read this but it's what we are all hoping you'll end up doing. Sorry brother 👍✌️❤️

ryan mate youve got a welder and a grinder cut that horrible rear sub frame off and build your own itll look better and you can build it how you want , think big mate lol

If it has a hex head then its a Set Bolt.

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it's YOUR bike, make it YOURS.

I agree build the bike how you like it , that said I think the seat is to thin , I would recommend making you own seat down to the original frame hight or make side number plates . Try different things because you can always put things back how they were .Just go for it ,you can do more than you think

Ryan, the one thing you should always keep in mind is that this is your bike build and whilst anyone can make suggestions, give you ideas or tell you it doesn't look right etc, the final decision is yours with regards to what it looks like and want to achieve. Ensure its safe of course but otherwise , build what you want to build, experiment, learn along the way as its how we go forward. Its great you are getting back to the bike, keep smiling as its going great and im sure everyone who subscribes, is right behind you and cant wait to see how this turns out.

Can I suggest mocking up a rear mudguard & it will give you an idea of what the frame should look like. Sorry mate, another vote here against the high rise seat base...

Love the vid need advise where can I get both cables for throttle and return my 250 n needs both

Hi Ryan love you watching your videos of you working on the honda's I've managed to remove the carburetors an strip then down an cleaning i found it better an easier to remove the shocks an lower wheel an airbox takes longer but its less fiddlely. But anyway my 2 400ns have bin in the shed for now an both batteries are flat an I'm thinking of buying just starter an booster so am unsure what type to so i wondering if had any idea of what you may use for bikes as both my batteries are sealed units an I've bit told you can't use a normal battery charger like you you can the old ascid batteries so any on what you may use. Robbie 👍🏻

Well done! It's very smart to build your own wokshop furnitures. It's often the only way to really get it exactly as you want and you can utilize the space to the fullest.

Nice to see you enjoying your new workspace , some fun to be had in there , stay safe 👍

Hi, is this an easy bike to push up a ramp into a shed on a daily basis? Shed sits 20cm off the ground and the ramp is 180cm in length and the door is 90cm wide

Good session Ryan. If it's anything like my workspace, it'll gradually find it's own form. 👍✌️❤️

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I know it’s too late now. But an easier way would have been to look on market place for old kitchen cupboards and pay a few quid for them, then just place work top on top. This way you get storage as well.

Looks to high you won't be able to get over your work piece pal I built one the same and it was to high for me I could get any force on engines and bits I was working on also I would of put some strengtheners on the length of the worktop pal it will move otherwise pal