It’s looking good Ryan . All your hard work is paying off. It did cross my mind if you can get the accelerator cable off if you have a problem in the future and need to readjust it, having soldered it. Thanks for another excellent video 👍😊😊
Hi Ryan, Looking good, I would try sitting on the bike with the new seat in place to get an idea of what hight you need before making mountings, it will be no good if you cannot reach the ground !!.Also with regards soldering the throttle cable, he best way is to slightly countersink the back of the nipple and then spread out the cable wires slightly leaving them a couple of mm long. When soldered they form a wedge /blob behind that won't pull through, then file down to fit.
Hi Ryan hopefully spring is just around the corner hats off to you for braving the cold this bike is coming on now 🤟
Thanks Paul. Working on the bike without shivering would be nice.
It’s looking good Ryan . All your hard work is paying off.
It did cross my mind if you can get the accelerator cable off if you have a problem in the future and need to readjust it, having soldered it.
Thanks for another excellent video 👍😊😊
Thank you. i did checked i can fit and remove the cabke at its current length, and there is adjustment available if it stretches.
nice one. you could cut the frame just behind the hole after the shock mount. and weld a seat hoop on. but angle it so it meets the hoop.
Thanks for the suggestion. I agree wirh shortening the frame where possible.
Hi Ryan,
Looking good, I would try sitting on the bike with the new seat in place to get an idea of what hight you need before making mountings, it will be no good if you cannot reach the ground !!.Also with regards soldering the throttle cable, he best way is to slightly countersink the back of the nipple and then spread out the cable wires slightly leaving them a couple of mm long. When soldered they form a wedge /blob behind that won't pull through, then file down to fit.
Hi, thank you for your good suggestions.
🏍👍