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Made a massive school boy error with my hw30, bloody de-cocked it incorrectly.. knocked safety off , pulled trigger and BANG while the barrel was broken..😢 held the barrel and no injuries but now its all grouchy and twangy when its shot😢 and ideas what i could have done to the poor bugger? And what to maybe check for if i open it up?

great video, thanks mate!

Im from Philippines,im only had this hw100kt here in Philippines

What was the point of removing the barrel in the first place? I see another spring replace without removing it. ?

Very good video well explained. I'm a complete beginner and wasn't sure if fitting a bidod was a case of drilling holes into the stock (something I absolutely wouldn't want to do). Are bipods available which just clamp onto the sides of the stock?

Beautiful gun that mate love it

At what point did you remove the safety pin and the safety pin spring?

This is the easiest way I’ve ever used. Thanks!

Excellent tips - Keep up the good work.

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How about we get the lead mold aye how about making our own lead pellets and sell em on the black market. Somthing i heard on the war of the worlds music l.p. lol

Talking sense. I now want to stock pile lead pellets.

I bought a KT s/h which was 6 years old owned it for another 6 years never had a problem, no leaks. Had it tuned by Ratworks, Tench regulator and lightweight cylinder fitted and it made the gun even better. I now also have a 100bp which is also a great gun. I ve owned Daystates and Steyrs and the HW is just as good as them and a good deal cheaper

When putting the spring back in put one of the pins in first instead of the grub screw, then put the grub screw in then remove the pin again so you can get the trigger unit in. Much easier than struggling to to get screw in when trying to compress the spring.

When putting the spring back in put one of the pins in first instead of the grub screw, then put the grub screw in then remove the pin again so you can get the trigger unit in. Much easier than struggling to to get screw in when trying to compress the spring.

Did the optic creep backwards? In my experience with spring air rifles the recoil moves optics.

Does Weihrauch manufacture their own Bipod to save the hassle of washers etc.

Totally different approach, but you've inspired me to look into getting the synthetic stock on my Stoeger X20 camo dipped...

Thanks for this Matt. Always good to follow someone else stripping a gun for the first time. My 30 is the only gun I havent tuned as yet so stripped it following your video in readiness for a Welsh Willy kit and a set of Britseals.

do you still use it and is this uk version or fac version?

Recently been researching this issue (no expert) but i came across the 1 piece sports match hop19c mount, pre compensated for barrel droop. Has an arrestor pin also.

Vorrei cortesemente conoscere la marca e le caratteristiche dell' ottica montata sulla carabina. Grazie.

Hi Matt, what pads did you use to extend the stock? I have the same synthetic one on order which I’m looking forward to getting. My only concern is how long we’ll be able to use lead for. I’ve read the baffles inside the moderator act like a cheese grater with anything other than fibre wad.

On next weeks show, we'll be looking into how to wear your hat! 😂

But the real question is … today’s show was brought which biscuit ?

I never knew I didnt know how to tie my laces....

I would buy it in a heartbeat, if only it had a 'classic' stock. Too bad I'm oldschool.

Well explained.

Well that was simple. Thanks Matt. Much appreciated 👍🏻 #subbed

Good morning Matt I have another question for you about my PCP and has something to do with air pressure the recommended air pressure for the gun in the manual says 250 bar. Any place else that it talks about pressure it says 230 bar now my concern is with the FXDRS classic, that’s pretty narrow margins on a small tank what the problem is when I refill this thing in a cool environment the pressure is 230 bar that I go to but it exceeds 250 when I take it out in the heat comment please

Excellent vid! It has inspired me to have ago at replacing the spring in my HW30. I'm in the UK but it has a German spring so is very low power, about 4fpe. Do you have any reccomendations for a de-greaser?

Something I've found useful for reassembling mechanical things is to remember to take plenty of photos as I disassemble them and to be organised with the screws and small parts by keeping them in labelled trays, polythene bags etc. The HW30 is an excellent spring air rifle.

I have a FX - DRS - classic why is the shot speeding up as the tank is coming closer to empty

Nice, whats the lowest number shot allowed in UK, can you buy like 00 buck?

I shimmed my fastmount with a bit of margarine lid. Make sure pin into gun. Fixed my hw 80 with hawke.

I use a thin bit of rubber from a bike inner tube Matt, worked fine

I've had the same problem with an 80 and a 35. I used the '1 piece' Sports Match adjustable mount on both, and they work brilliantly. They are robustly engineered and although expensive almost certainly the best adjustable's available. I've also used the Sports Match 2 piece, but in my opinion they are a bit of a faf to set up. I've also used the BKL adjustables, but wouldn't recommend them ......... shame because their fixed 1 piece self centering fixed mounts are brilliant. I hope this helps. BTW, shimming mounts can cause tube distortion. Keep up the great work

i try again its not loaded up first time , the only way if there is no play or bent barrel , is by using a file at the white spots where the breech block hits the cilinder , and check constant remove the seal first to see where it hits metal on metal use a marker to make the white spots black / it wil ,make the gun more accurat because the recoil is parallel with the barrel shiming is bad it wil bend the scope. a strong one piece mount is the best used on a springer , there is no free movement between the rings

Idiot might be a bit of a stretch, I'd go the bit of tin foil route, cheap and easy, like yourself ;)

Second recommendation for "Get a one piece mount with lock pin and shim with foil" I have had similar problems and found that I needed not just 1 shim of a coke can but 2 under the rear mount to sort out the problem. Remember you are trying to best equalise the adjustment range of windage and elevation turret adjustments whilst making POI equal POA

The first step to solving the problem is to accurately determine what the problem is. Is the barrel bent?( look down it). Is the lock mechanism not engaging fully ( lay straight edges on barrel and scope rails and confirm that they are parallel). Once problem defined then solution will be apparent.

You can check the accuracy of the mounts by reversing then. To check the barrel lock, lightly tap down the barrel on your bag after loading. I had this on a 98 and the problem was the barrel catch was very stiff, reamed out with wet'n'dry then relubed fixed it.

Get a one piece mount with lock pin and shim with foil

I was gonna say try a shim, seems simplest and quikest? Could the barrel be bent, it is a bteak barrel and wouldnt be unheatd if I suppose?

The easiest option is to just shim the scope, you can mess around forever with mounts but the simplest option is often the best way to go.

Explained really well..love the aerosol demo.bang on!! Jak wales

Explained really well.love the aerosol demo bang on.!! Jak Wales.

Dead-fly biscuits for ever!

Easygoing tutorial, very well explained, thank you - and a thumbs-up for iron sights, which I like because they are far quicker to adjust and use.

All those saying the gauge on the front is dangerous !!!!! piffle you can easily read the gauge at an angle Ive never had an issue doing just that while filling mine. Just dont be stupid, use some common sense and follow a few simple safety rules. Also if you dont have a mag in the gun or a pellet chambered you aint gonna shoot yourself in the face. I used to have a pair of the early guns but sold them and regretted it ever since I am very tempted to get another.