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Can you reply with the Swiss insert tool information? Please

Since I've been machining a long time professionally, I've used them for a long time already. I want to make a new one, however, that has a protective load clutch on it. I'm still working on how much torque I need to use so it does it job without snapping or twisting off anything.

Where did you get that angle plate stand-off part from? It looks like it may be the same kind my brother's lathe is currently missing.

Nicely Done! Thanks for posting!

Can I engrave on a 40oz tumbler 360?

For milling, MT tooling is only viable in conjunction with a draw bar. Lathe tail stocks don‘t have draw bars and the tools you might have laying around for your lathe are likely not to have the threaded hole at the end of their taper to accept a draw bar. Keep this in mind before deciding to buy a mill with MT taper thinking that you will share the lathe tools. Also, an MT2 taper is really flimsy for milling, compared to R8.

What is the use case for die over single point threading on a lathe?

Enjoyed your video just a question I have the same tool post, can you supply a bearing number for that thrust bearing? Thanks for the inspiration.

Anyone who machines as a hobby must have a really stressful job.

What is that carbide insert & holder you are using to reduce the stock in the first lathe scenes 0:38 ?

One digestion to reduce the drag on the channel is to utilize a small ball bearing on the holding screw. That would give the mobility necessary to smooth out the movement.

First time here and loved the idea! I’m an apprentice without a master other than TH-cam, and would like to thank you for passing on the knowledge and experience you have! I work with Sherline lathes and mills so I have only one question: when you were making the dovetails, is the video at actual speed or did you speed it up? I always wonder if the speeds I see are really the ones being applied against the parts made, since I’m super scared of breaking tools which I can’t afford it right now. Thanks again, and you’ve get a subscriber if you answer my question!

Excellent work! Very well executed. What is the name of the insert holder you use on the first shaft? Is that a custom ground insert with the chip breaker groove? Left a beautiful finish on what appears to be 1018 by the way it chipped. Again, very well done.

Thank You ! I have a lathe similar to yours and now a collet chuck is on my to do list.

I bought a larger mill drill a few years ago. I considered buying a second/third/fortieth hand Bridgeport or King Rich, whatever, a turret mill. I didn't have tooling so that had to be considered as well. I went with the Rongfu machine for these reasons. Dovetail column, fairly rigid - more so than a Sieg, Decent table size for a domestic garage, DRO, suds, stand, taping mode, 2 HP. To that I added a rotary table, five inch vice, all the bits and pieces you need to get going and some bits that are just nice to have. All up about AU$8k. A second hand Bridgy would set me back around the $5k mark and need a considerable amount of work - new lead screws, nuts, surface grind, belt etc - another $3-4K without any tooling. I am a hobbyist just mucking around. The machine I bought does just about everything I want with a reasonable finish and good accuracy. I also have a Sieg x2.5 or something that I am converting to CNC. The Rongfu is by far the better machine.

One should source higher Amp spec speed controllers, or provide additional heating in the form of heat sinks, and maybe a fan.

What is the insert in that turning tool, never seen one like that before

U folded a sawsaw blade in paper bunt it . Then it came out shaped

Thanks!

Had no idea what you were doing here. Then skipped to the end to see the final product and hear your explanation.

put a ball bearing on the pin so when it presses up against it itll have alot less friction!

If you have a lathe, Why do you need a die. Outstanding

A much less chaotic way of cutting threads on a lathe is to turn the tool upside down, run the lathe in reverse, and start from the chuck and cut toward the tail stock. The chips will not be trapped in the "V" and will fall out naturally. You also have more time to disengage the half nut at the end. If you are using an insertable threading tool, you need to use a "left hand" tool so when you flip it upside down the insert is close to the chuck. If your lathe comes up to speed quickly, you can jog the spindle and engage the half nut while over the undercut and then start the spindle which eliminates any panic moments. I was cutting some 3/8-16 threads today on a piece of shit 1946 Springfield lathe using this method. I was taught this method by a German toolmaker when I was 13 years old and I'm now 65. I've never threaded any other way. And because somebody will probably ask, no, you won't cut a left hand thread.

Slick.

I recently inherited a lathe and end mill, I don't have much experience running either and I find your videos a great learning tool keep em coming

Thats a sweet turning insert! What is it called?

Some of the Chinese machines are decent but can be very easily improved

HOW do you get that cut off cutter to work so good??

I have one question what type of insert are you using for the majority of the turning the gold TiN colored one ?

What about a bearing on the pin?

this video is specialy cool to me bc 1; i have a southbend 9c and 2; im working in a factory that some people say, its just a wuestion of time to close the doors. bought a huge milling machine some months ago and problably starting a channel to post about the restoring. anyway, good luck bro, loved the channel merch sweaters

can't seem to find part 2 , loving this channel

55 views in 3 days is pretty good.....i was a cnc and manual machinist, thats a super idea when yo get all the pieces made to swap out

Nice job

First video I've seen of yours, this is very high quality content. Subscribed!

Please introduce the new exciting tool and explain what it does before machining its parts. This is a pet peeve of many machining videos and the reason I’ve unsubscribed to several.

Can’t believe that I missed this video on release day. I will be using this as inspiration (i.e., stealing shamelessly) to make a holder for an SPB326 parting blade for 3mm inserts. I hate making dovetails but it will be worth it if this works as well as I think it will. Thanks for posting.

a Lathe Die holder should have a Key instead of a Pin, so theré less surface pressure, and therefore less fricthin, furthermore.. standard die holders come with adapter rings.. and these are way easier to buy, or even maken..

Please help me understand. If you have a lathe, why would you cut threads with a die instead of single pointing it and controlling WAY more thread dimensions? I have used dies to chase damaged threads and possibly thread a boss that would be next to impossible to single point.

Very cool design 👍

As always this is awesome but still not that perfect,,,,this kind of closed die when you puls back it destroyed the thread unfortunately if there's chips ❤❤❤

you have the unfortunate, uncanny skill of stopping a sequence right before it reaches a goal. Very frustrating.

General machining question… do copper soft jaw covers deform a bit every time they are clamped, or is adequate clamping pressure achieved before the deformation?

Nice example of iterative design. Glad the second pass was successful. I’d be interested to see a tapping adaptation. An intermediate level die threading tool could be the Hemingway type with the dual cone clutches, etc. I made one a couple years ago and found it exceptionally effective when threading up to shoulders. It just disengages and stops instead of breaking something. You reverse the lathe, give the lever a push in the opposite direction and it backs out. You can cut all the cone tapers with the compound too. Thanks for sharing this experience.

i got the 727m, with gears. . i full full power on low rpm. i can do 2" facemill cuts in all material. ti, steel, aluminum 2" facemill cuts in all material. ti, steel, aluminum

Love your brown and Sharpe. More videos coming? Cheers.

That works great. I'm very jealous of your taper turning attachment! Magnets and swarf though....😮

Keep your eyse open and be prepared to move on used machines listed for sale is my best advice. FB Marketplace seems to be where everybody sells these days. I had an Arrow 500 VMC and needed a machine for first operations like squaring stock. I found a well used Enco brand RF30 (round column) locally with R8 collets and an Albrecht 1/2" chuck (that was in good shape) for $750 delivered (probably on CL, around 10 years ago). Step pulleys, limited speed range, but useable. Spindle had a few thou of play if you pushed it, but reasonably good and plumb to the table. I've used the crap out of it. I've used knockoff Kurt Anglok style vises and I'd recommend this si one area you don't skimp. They can be found used as well (I've picked up several Kut 6" vises including one machined-on-all-sides CNC variant). Now, I was a machinist/moldmaker/CNC/everything machine trades guy for 20 years so I have more experience in improvising than the average hobbyist, but it is amazing how much you can do with a cheap far-eastern origin mini mill. Just picked up a Supra 10"x54" knee mill (3600 pound monster) with an older CNC Masters control, and it's surprisingly capable, too. Deals are out there.