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Drum sander on a Dremel tool. Works great and leaves a really nice finish.

Right to the point, well articulated, great video.

Typically electric motors have the most torque at low speeds and lose torque as they speed up. (gearing and belts aside)

Great explanation, I'll need to start trying this myself too soon. I have some broken cat iron (architectural decorative bits) that needs fixing. What size of acetylene torch tip did you end up using?

If you want to make a living doing machining, buy a CNC. Manual machining is time consuming and more expenses in the long run.

How can I locate your email? I’d like to share a very useful boring head extension device that you can make on your channel. I believe your viewers would like to see how it’s made so they can make one for themselves.

Simple solution: Buy a shorter spanner!! Ha Ha!😂

I have to figure out a reason I don't like this idea or I will be making 52 at last count!!!

Good video David! Learning from a modest newbie encourages us to give it a go also! Cheers, Cliff

I think you can buy annular (not angular) cutters with Weldon shanks from Vevor as well. The regular drill chuck and its threaded Weldon adapter are simply to help when you have a requirement and the drill bit but not the Weldon shank cutter. I suspect you will find that you have some play in between the Weldon to chuck adapter which is taken up by the set screws. Perhaps you can adjust the set screws (trial and error method) to take some of that out. The other thing is you might want to use a hole punch to set spot where you want it before starting to drill. Like you saw, the runout doesn't normally impact the hole drilled once it is started - at least less than the runout actually is. Thanks for posting this video. It allowed us to look it over before buying one. We will. It would be handy in our fab shop and the price is crazy low for the utility. Thanks again!

Nice work. Well done

a very nice project to make thank you

Oh wow - first of all: highly-relevant video. Second: IDK what you've done here, but your video production quality is very high - not that it was bad before or anything, but that you've clearly been working at something - maybe writing ahead of time, maybe editing, IDK. whatever it is, it works. this is great.

Thanku for an easy basic way about threading.

I am by no means an expert in oxyacetylene processes but the gas flame in the vise repair sequence appeared to me to be carburizing rather than neutral. Once again since I am no expert I couldn’t speculate whether introducing more carbon into the surface might have any effect but just wanted to throw that out there in case someone might weigh in. I have a little experience with TIG brazing using Silicon Bronze but have no idea if that method is applicable to cast iron. Thanks for posting your experience.

Would it help to apply flux to the joint of the cast-iron vise you braised? Just wondering.

Finished silver and bronze braze looks very good. You’re much too modest in declaring your lack of experience.

nice work!

thank you for another great video. wish i could produce what i do but i don't have the temperament!

great tips. Maybe consider adding flashback arrestors to the cutting torch. Just in case

I taught myself cast iron bronze brazing with the exact same lincoln portable torch kit you have. Never had any experience before diving in. SUPER HELPFUL TIP - Get the flux coated bronze filler rod in 3/32” … If you try and use 1/8” on a small part you’re going to struggle, only time I’ve ever found myself “needing” an 1/8” over a 3/32” was for a LARGE VISE crack which required the crack to be ground down for 4” and ran 6” across (part weighed 70+lbs). For almost all bracket repair or common cast iron part repairs weighing under 20lbs , the 3/32” rod will be perfect. The ease of use is night and day between heating & dipping your rods in flux… the ease and results you’ll see will be night and day just like when you try brazing with Harris Safety Silv 45 or 56. For brand I would go Hotmax or Lincoln, I tried US Forge but for some reason I had more trouble with that brand(batch?). Hobart, Forney, Harris would probably be fine too but since I can only speak from experience …which is I loved the HotMax 36” rods they made the process as user friendly as I could ever have hoped.

Very interesting. Nice work sir. I don’t have much experience on brazing.

Cool thumbnail!

The part that you fixed on vice , you can't put alot of torque on it when tightening it down , wouldn't been better to TIG weld it instead ? TIG welding is stronger weld than Brazing . Either way interesting video , keep it up and thank you , William , MN

Way too much filler. Use capillary action to fill joint.

Pro-hobbyist tip, run a slightly hotter flame than you think you need. Then, hold the tip slightly farther away to spread the heated area out a little farther. This helps prevent hotter than needed spots and a more even heat to the part, which in turn reduces the cracking probability when it cools. It also helps the filler material flow out better as more of the area is evenly heated.

Welding=cohesion, brazing=adhesion

For a first go at brazing cast iron you did really well, you are right practice is the key but looks like you are on the right path. Before i had acess to oxy or tig my first attempts were with a carbon arc torch on the wife's mini fixing bodywork many years ago. Not pretty but it worked 😂

This Old Tony's kid???

One tip I received many years ago that helped me wrap my head around this type of brazing is to remember the filler material ( brazing rod aka bronze) goes to the heat. Meaning it will always try to go to the hottest point. Flux will help it get there faster. That, and also understanding that the approach angle is what I try to focus on when brazing. I do ALOT of brazing with 45 and bronze is what I use the majority of the time. But your video was still very informative and entertaining. 😊

Thx for the vid., and as another commenter stated, melt the rod with what you're trying to braze not the torch.

Great video man, good info..

You are to be commended for stepping out of your comfort zone....and sharing the experience. We are all learning. Thank you.

I need to get better at this myself. Need to find some junk to practice on.

Brazing is an art, not that I have any skill with it, I don't, but it takes practice and once it comes together it just works. My 8th grade shop teacher was a brazing Jedi. Why? Because he had done it a lot. The tip he gave me that helped me the most was to melt the rod with the piece you are trying to braze together. Melting the rod with the torch will never work.

Thank you for doing this video. I have a brand new oxy/acet torch setup which I had purchased for the sole purchase of learning how to braze. I have hesitated trying because I really didn't know where to start. I now have some beginning ideas. So, here is my situation. I have a '62 Impala that has some rust holes in parts that are not available in the aftermarket. They are also very complex as far as bends and curves and would be very difficult to reproduce. Since this is in sheet metal which is already thin from the rusting, it appears I should try the silver/bronze vs. the straight bronze because of its ability to flow at a lower temp. I'd be interested in your thoughts since you just brazed razor blades.

Very cool video. LOL

Hello, I'm here for the puns.

Sup m8? First! -edit- Damn, you just invented an actual ``safety razor``... What a remarkable feat of engineering! Not just one, but two safety razors in one... Shiet man, that`s some business mind right there in action :P Also, nice job... Yeah, brazing is fucking disgusting... I prefer tig above all other methods, even tig brazing, but that shit doesn`t fly with everything... Brazing is just the worst, right after painting... Cheers! Steuss

Nice video nice work

Did you ever make a video on how to make the jig?

i think your moving horozintally too fast.

can you make one for a South Bend 13" wiith taper attachment?

Can I suggest, when you release a short cut like this, link the original video in the description please?

i hate mine, i love mine... i guess mines the bigger sister. HM45...46? it works, but i spent a bit of time learning its idiosyncrasies? being left semi exposed for a few years wasnt the best thing for the bearings... box got water in it. so stripped it down and thats when i found the major issue, that one of the gear shafts has a nasty big crack in it along one of the keyways. from the factory judging by the grinding marks... bit hard to select one speed and i know that one day its going to have to be stripped down and remade... at the same time, see if i can beef it up a bit as well. in this country we have a monopoly of one seller/importer and theyre not interested in after sales support... not even really interested in pre-sales support, lol. a reputation for "customer service" but what can you do given no alternative but bend over and take it? the big challenge will be when i finally get motivated to start scraping it... gotta love the "decorative" factory scraping... it still has the cutter marks on some of the ways! not hard as such, just tedious and some parts weigh a bit. i still cry about letting a bridgeport go years ago as i didnt have the shed for it (remember that bit about "semi exposed"?)

Question, you said that round column mills are inferior to a square column type can you explain why this is so?

I like your approach. Are you planning on adding the clocking pin? Thanks for sharing!

Thx for the vid.

Thanks for the video i enjoyed watching!

I missed you setting up the compound for the 5C taper.