Tool Making for Beginners - QUICK & EASY DIY Project
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ค. 2024
- Download your free plans here!: / herschtoolroom
This project comes straight out of the excellent book "Metal Lathe for Home Machinists" by the great Harold Hall.
This is the first book that I ever read about running a manual lathe, and recently while going back through it I realized that I'd never actually completed many of the projects in the book.
I begin to remedy that here.
So please, download your free drawings and follow along as I walk through the entire process of completing this fundamental project.
Whether you're looking to expand your skills, dive into your first tool making project, or just looking for a fun Saturday afternoon project for the shop, this one's for you.
You will get to spend time in front of your machines, and will have a tool to put in the toolbox when you're done.
Comment below with any questions, concerns, or criticisms, and don't forget to subscribe for more machining content!
/ @hersch_tool
My Lathe: MSC / Prince 9517350 - 13x40 Manual Metal Lathe
My Milling Machine: Bridgeport Variable Speed Series 1 "J Head"
My other Milling Machine: Brown & Sharpe No. 2 Plain "light type" Universal Milling Machine
CREDITS:
Music and Sound Effects courtesy of www.epidemicsound.com
0:00 Intro
1:19 Project Overview
4:05 Getting Started
5:50 Hitting a Tight Tolerance
9:20 Don't Forget the Taper!
10:40 The handle
12:09 Knurling
14:07 The Gauges
16:05 The Full Set/Outro
Great project for the new machinist to practice hitting some dimensions, reading a micrometer, etc. Good tip on using the compound at 6 degrees, too.
@@MyLilMule yeah the book it came out of is fantastic as well. Cheers!
Cool project to make.. thank you for sharing
Thanks very much for taking the time to watch. I appreciate it! :)
Great video as always!
@@syldysnya thanks!
I’ve missed your lathe videos 😊! Thoughts on such a large nose radius when attempting to turn with such a small depth of cut? It’s good that the edge is very sharp but it looks like it was cutting on the nose instead of the cutting lip.
Yes it's cutting on the farthest point of the radius. You need to have cutting relief out there. It works very well for safely sneaking up on close tolerances. And the lathe is probably my favorite as well. :) Thanks very much for watching!
@@hersch_tool do you think it would work better or worse if the tip were a lot sharper? For instance I use sharp carbide inserts for finishing because 1. they are sharp and 2. the tiny nose radius helps with the really small depths of cut.
@@freestyla101 It really depends on the result that you're after, the alloy you're using, etc. Sharp carbide inserts will allow you to accomplish a similar thing as far as taking super light cuts. The sharp point is going to leave a different finish than a soft radius. For instance, with 304 stainless steel using a radius'ed tool will give a very nice satin like finish, while a sharp point will leave a much brighter finish and often a faint texture.
Nice project, thx for the vid.
@@Warped65er thanks very much for watching 🙂
Very good for new and older machinists. Thanks again for your time enjoyed it
Thank YOU for taking the time to watch, I appreciate it!
Another great video with easy, for us novice hobbyists, to understand explanations. Sometime when you are trying to come up with something for us viewers, would you consider doing a video on how to get correct chip development on the lathe. All the channels talk about chips, ie. good and bad, but how do you fix bad chips? Not the kind you eat.🥚
@@rjay1674 thanks very much for the positive feedback, I genuinely appreciate it. And yeah absolutely, I’ll add that to my idea list. Thanks very much for watching as well!
Good video. Very instructive.
Thanks very much, glad you enjoyed it. And thank you for watching!
A dandy indeed! 👍🏻nice looking knurling ya got there buddy.. 😮
@@jasonhull5712 haha, thanks. And thanks for watching!
Nice. 2 questions. Why didn't you use the mystery steel for the handle and the 1144 for the gages? And why didn't you finish the handle in the first set up, instead of parting and flipping?
Because the 1144 was only 3/4" OD. I wanted to make larger gauges. Not sure what you mean on the second part. The material was longer than I needed, so I parted it.
@@hersch_tool what I mean is why not have the piece pulled out far enough so you could have done the knurling and the smaller shoulder all in one set up, then part it off.
@@kurb0311 Too much stickout, causes flexing, inaccuracies, and chatter. In general, 3xDiameter is about where you want to be, and normally work with as little material stickout as possible for any given situation. This is where order of ops and project planning becomes important.
Is it worth saving your metal shavings for scrap?
@@theexposurenetwork365 scrap places normally won’t take them, unfortunately.
@@hersch_tool didn't even think of that. Any idea why?
@@theexposurenetwork365 Its a bunch of reasons I think. It's impossible for them to know what kind of metals are mixed in the chips, they're always covered in oils and other contaminants, and the size to weight ratio of the chips makes them really cumbersome to deal with. Meaning, a few cubic feet of chips won't even add up to the weight of a few inches of steel bar.
I don't understand why a lot of people don't mess with hardened material.
you do NOT need grinding capabilities to work with heat treated materials! you can use normal carbide tooling, you just need to be careful what your playing with and what the hardness is, a lot of insert tooling will tell you what surface footage and chipload it works with for hardened material.
hardened stuff isn't that scary, just gotta know what your doing. unless it's case hardened or an exotic heat treated material, but if your playing with them your using cbn and diamond tooling anyway.
TLDR if used correctly, carbide tooling will be more than good enough for hardened material. hss can also be used but I wouldn't recommend it.
I actually machined a hardened dead center yesterday to make a "half dead center". I was expecting a lot of drama but the AlTiN carbide end mill had no issues whatsoever machining it. It made me re-evaluate my fear of working with hardened stuff
@@michaelandersen7535 yeah definitely, I work in a CNC shop and about half the stuff we get in is 4140 prehard. not even the manual Bridgeports have much issues with it when using carbide tooling. it's nice that you can baby it even better too. take a light cut and still have enough tool pressure to make that cut
I got the impression that he was saying he couldn’t heat treat material because he doesn’t have the ability to perform a cylindrical grind.
@@freestyla101 again, you don't need grinding capabilities to heat treat
Gauges for fractional imperial? How retro!
I am an old soul
👍👍😎👍👍
@@joell439 thanks for watching!
Yo, speaking of hardening, grinding ain`t the sole method of acquiring precision... CBN turning works brilliantly, but requires care, as it is as bad or worse than grinding on a lathe with a tpg... Bare ways are easily ruined with hardened chips and dust that forms during turning of ultra hard stuff... CBN will cut it in chips, but glass hard material will generate dust regardless... You also have hardturning carbide, but both of those are in my view pre-finishing tooling, as precision instruments are solely generated by lapping, if we really wanna be honest about things... And making a lap for a lathe is 10x easier than generating a straight lap... Just shield and cover those ways for the whole process, and not with junk, as hardturning chips will eat through any easily combustible or l.t. melting material...
Making cylindrical instruments of precision in the shop the proper way is not outside the realms of possibility for almost anyone with a lathe... I would wager that it is easier to make cyl. precision stuff with a hobby shop than it is to make flat precision instruments, or rather, it takes much less effort to do so... From lap making to the speed and ease of the whole process... Milling a piece flat and square is harder than turning a piece cyl, hardening affects flat and rectangular pieces worse than it does the cyl. ones, and lapping of flat surfaces is more intense in every way than it is to slide a lap up and down a spinning shaft evenly and checking every however often your skill demands you to...
Also, for those with interests in casting, i would perhaps consider using white bronze for this project... Cast a majestic handle with a few pseudo-diameters, give `er the centers, turn the actual diameters and lap it in... By white bronze i am referring to Cu-Al bronze alloy with high aluminium content, which results in a glass hard and brittle as fuck material, but one remarkably good for both wear and tear resistance, corrosion near-immunity, relative ``slipperiness`` which makes it ideal for tooling like this... Being glass hard also makes it immune to abrasive charging when lapped with a soft laps... Just don`t drop it on the floor, but then, the same goes for steel instruments... It also won`t have the potential to wring with a fine finished bore that you are checking, but will instead have a natural lubricity to it due to aforementioned material properties... And it is easy to make... Just good copper pipe from scrapyard and some good purity alu(not hard to source either)...
Best regards!
Steuss
Excellent comment as always, thanks bro.
1.25x
Thanks for watching!
I would have liked to see the tool in use early on in the video. Really early. I didn't, so I stopped watching.
@@EdwardKilner thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it.
How can you be so particular and still have the motivation to comment?
@@freestyla101 Good question. Will be 79 in a week, comfortable with the way I have always been. Comments give feedback. Some like them, some don't. Me, my videos are awful. Have a look if you like. I am trying to improve my editing, have a lot to learn. Also trying to develop a directing style. This stuff is tough.
@@EdwardKilner perhaps you were more genuine than it came across in writing. All the best.