Great job! All jobs are glamorous anything that has safety make sure you get a signed release there are to many "Karens" out in this crazy world I have done brakes and spindle mods for years but never have had any problems thanks for the video Good luck to you i believe you will go far in you endeavors!!
From my experience turning rotors for a couple of trucks it is important to dial in like you did, the rotors are big and heavy and not always the easiest to hold. The first set I tried to turn I thought O it is simple I mean a brake lathe is nothing major just wipe off a hundredth or so and it will be good to go. Yeah we went down the road and put on the brakes and went to the ditch, it was awful. Dialed them in like you did here and they stopped straight as an arrow. Just found your channel but keep up the good work turning those handles.
In fairness your channel often shows more actual machining than some of those with bigger audiences so no need to minimize the content of this one. I’m glad for you that jobs are materializing and look forward to seeing some of them in the future. Carry on.
@@hersch_tool I might suggest, as others have, that you have some kind of written agreement that indemnifies you from adverse effects of modifications to OEM parts that a customer requests (as well as many other considerations your lawyer will cover). Normally the machinist can’t know everything about the application, where and how a part is going to be used but when someone shows up with an obviously critical automotive component and asks you to shave a couple pounds of metal off of it the hair on your arms should stand up. Ya gots to protect number one!
i hope you have a good written agreement with the customer and that agreement has solid indemnity clauses in it - you are reducing the front bearing support boss i wonder if an engineer approved the mod - probably not - customer goes of roading and the boss fails - accident - some one gets hurt - legal liability? you need to ensure that the customer assumes all responsibility for any mods to brake parts and systems and that they have appropriate engineering approval.
Honestly, I considered that very briefly but it just makes all of the machining more cumbersome and inconvenient for no real benefit. Pushing out the studs takes less than 5 minutes. If I ever did this job again, I would do it again on the lathe. Having done it once now, I feel that the lathe is the best tool for this particular job.
@@PatHardesty-q5g yeah it is a gap bed, but taking out the gap is an absolute last resort lol. Once it comes out, I’m sure it’ll never go back in correctly… 😏 thanks for watching
Hey there, i might get some hate for that, but I think you could make up some centering cones for your Lathe. Just turn one side to 25 mm or 1 inch and leave a little flansh. Bolt on some big stock which suites the ID of your Job and turn a 60° taper. Get the Tailstock in. A little pressure and for 1/4 Inch or 6mm, in what ever universe you live, you should be good to go. Adding a drive dog of some kind would be the better way but for light cuts I cant see why this wouldn't work. I have done some similar setups and it went fine. Although you should have a more than solid customer agreement, because you remove 1/4 Inch of a Brake :| I wont say for one second that the vehicle is gonna fall appart when you first hit the brakes, but you should move yourself out of any legal drama.
Once you had the surfaces indicated, you could have pulled the bull nose center back and used an ID attachment on the indicator to see how true the bearing race was running. Maybe do a final adjust to that.
Some wheels mount “Hub centric” some mount “Lug centric” Lug centric wheels should be within .005” (radial runout) to not have problems. Lug centric wheels are centered on the lugs so the hub is not that important. Since you were given a nominal 1/4” to remove it sounds like it was done for clearance and not that important.
I’m guessing(I could be wrong) the customer wanted that material removed for clearance. If that’s the case it wouldn’t have needed to be “perfect”. You did a nice job. I do a lot of job shop work for the local motorcycle/ATV repair shop. I always try to ask as many questions as possible so I am not overthinking the job(which I have a bad habit of doing).
Hub centric v/s lug centric wheels. If the lug nuts have a tapered seat then yes they just need clearance (and should probably have a fat radius on that cut) Alloy wheels are typically hub centric so the wedging action of the nuts doesn't create stress risers. On a typical brake lathe the hub would center up on the bearing races, which is *_always_* the axis of rotation regardless of what the lugs or disc is telling the indicator.
@@hersch_tool Holds true for almost all trades. The other thing is that trades tend to work with visual communication. A sketch, drawing or actual plan!!! conveys most, or everything we need to know. But what happens when a customer comes in with a "plan" they drew up themselves and is basically impossible to follow? 🙃 or 😂 "Hot rolled plate 0.75000" and you explain to them that convention is no more digits than needed? But they insist! Do you give them a price for some thicker piece taken down to _hundredths?_ You ask them the RMS of the finish and they look at you dumbfounded. It's hard, when the 'client' knows nothing, and a joy when they understand exactly what and how they want it.
@@hersch_toolthat's true for almost any technical work in any field. Probably two thirds of my day job is spent translating between lawyers, marketing, engineering, and customers. I came up as an engineer, but the skill of being able to figure out how to communicate with folks who need to have a solid understanding but who have vastly different backgrounds and knowledge than engineers do is... I mean it's something folks can learn, if I'm any indication. Just seems thin on the ground I guess.
Truth be told, a lathe seems more logical for a round part, but would not a mill be more suitable for this? With a vert. head that is? You plop the rotor on the milltable - it sits flat if the table is flat... You check the things with a clock in the spindle and you just chew away that nub with an endmill, finishing it with a flycutter for kicks and looks... Faster setup by at least 10x, easy clamping through the stud holes plus any additional clamping that you want to add... I think that a lathe was a bad call here... A vertical lathe, or rather, a vertical boring jigmill would be the ideal type of lathe for the job, but the traditional horizontal lathe calls for way too much setup, lest you are using a faceplate that would again allow for dead flat seating of the rotor by simple clamping, and the concentricity of the part can easily be soft-whacked into place just to balance the damn thing and not have the lathe try and chase you around the shop in wrath... There are even 4jaw faceplates or rather, 4jaw chucks that are large enough to offer faceplate style clamping with t-slots and shit, while also offering the ind. jaws that can push stuff into position and add extra clamping in case such as this... Best regards! Steuss
@@hersch_tool Hmmm, entirely possible, especially what with your mill perhaps not having the vert. head ``in gear`` at the moment... But i thought that it would make for an easier and quicker, yet somewhat more reliable setup... I can`t say - haven`t done it both methods myself as to be able to compare them...
Proper honest work, not always exciting but always machining 🎉 thanks for sharing buddy
Amen to that, thanks for watching brother
Good work, stopping is so much more important than starting! 40+ years since I ran a brake lathe, cast iron be fun!
Great job! All jobs are glamorous anything that has safety make sure you get a signed release there are to many "Karens" out in this crazy world I have done brakes and spindle mods for years but never have had any problems thanks for the video Good luck to you i believe you will go far in you endeavors!!
@@robertharper8776 thank you!
From my experience turning rotors for a couple of trucks it is important to dial in like you did, the rotors are big and heavy and not always the easiest to hold. The first set I tried to turn I thought O it is simple I mean a brake lathe is nothing major just wipe off a hundredth or so and it will be good to go. Yeah we went down the road and put on the brakes and went to the ditch, it was awful. Dialed them in like you did here and they stopped straight as an arrow. Just found your channel but keep up the good work turning those handles.
In fairness your channel often shows more actual machining than some of those with bigger audiences so no need to minimize the content of this one. I’m glad for you that jobs are materializing and look forward to seeing some of them in the future. Carry on.
@@Dogfather66227 hey thanks for that. This comment really made my day.
@@hersch_tool I might suggest, as others have, that you have some kind of written agreement that indemnifies you from adverse effects of modifications to OEM parts that a customer requests (as well as many other considerations your lawyer will cover). Normally the machinist can’t know everything about the application, where and how a part is going to be used but when someone shows up with an obviously critical automotive component and asks you to shave a couple pounds of metal off of it the hair on your arms should stand up. Ya gots to protect number one!
Money is always glamorous 😊
@@joell439 here here 😉
i hope you have a good written agreement with the customer and that agreement has solid indemnity clauses in it - you are reducing the front bearing support boss i wonder if an engineer approved the mod - probably not - customer goes of roading and the boss fails - accident - some one gets hurt - legal liability? you need to ensure that the customer assumes all responsibility for any mods to brake parts and systems and that they have appropriate engineering approval.
My thought exactly. Might want to specify for “off road use only” too.
@@Jeff-KN6UDGand EVERYTHING in writing and signed.
Leave the studs in and use a boring bar. Or endmill on a rotary table with studs still in. Or boring head on the mill cutting on the inside.
Honestly, I considered that very briefly but it just makes all of the machining more cumbersome and inconvenient for no real benefit. Pushing out the studs takes less than 5 minutes. If I ever did this job again, I would do it again on the lathe. Having done it once now, I feel that the lathe is the best tool for this particular job.
I like it , I thought that was a gap bed , an inch is as good as a mile . Thanks
@@PatHardesty-q5g yeah it is a gap bed, but taking out the gap is an absolute last resort lol. Once it comes out, I’m sure it’ll never go back in correctly… 😏 thanks for watching
A little work is better than no work, that is for sure, thank you for sharing
@@tomnielsen3661 indeed, thanks for watching
I do a few in my shop but the money compared to the clean up just ain't worth it, lol 😂, that castiron is messy...great video.
@@kentuckytrapper780 haha yeah agreed, nasty stuff. Thanks for watching!
Hey there, i might get some hate for that, but I think you could make up some centering cones for your Lathe. Just turn one side to 25 mm or 1 inch and leave a little flansh. Bolt on some big stock which suites the ID of your Job and turn a 60° taper. Get the Tailstock in. A little pressure and for 1/4 Inch or 6mm, in what ever universe you live, you should be good to go.
Adding a drive dog of some kind would be the better way but for light cuts I cant see why this wouldn't work. I have done some similar setups and it went fine.
Although you should have a more than solid customer agreement, because you remove 1/4 Inch of a Brake :|
I wont say for one second that the vehicle is gonna fall appart when you first hit the brakes, but you should move yourself out of any legal drama.
Once you had the surfaces indicated, you could have pulled the bull nose center back and used an ID attachment on the indicator to see how true the bearing race was running. Maybe do a final adjust to that.
Some wheels mount “Hub centric” some mount “Lug centric” Lug centric wheels should be within .005” (radial runout) to not have problems. Lug centric wheels are centered on the lugs so the hub is not that important. Since you were given a nominal 1/4” to remove it sounds like it was done for clearance and not that important.
Maybe mundane but still interesting.
Just curious, how much do you charge for something like this?
Sorry I don’t discuss pricing in TH-cam comments. But not much, probably not enough lol
So if the machining isn’t glamorous so what? As long the machinist is then everybody wins!
@@yourotherlefthand 😂
You might get away with it if they were high performance, but these are basic so it's a gamble.
I’m guessing(I could be wrong) the customer wanted that material removed for clearance. If that’s the case it wouldn’t have needed to be “perfect”. You did a nice job.
I do a lot of job shop work for the local motorcycle/ATV repair shop. I always try to ask as many questions as possible so I am not overthinking the job(which I have a bad habit of doing).
Hub centric v/s lug centric wheels.
If the lug nuts have a tapered seat then yes they just need clearance (and should probably have a fat radius on that cut)
Alloy wheels are typically hub centric so the wedging action of the nuts doesn't create stress risers.
On a typical brake lathe the hub would center up on the bearing races, which is *_always_* the axis of rotation regardless of what the lugs or disc is telling the indicator.
@@grntitan1 yeah, there seems to be an art to teasing out and translating information from the customer into applicable machining operations. 😂
@@hersch_tool Holds true for almost all trades.
The other thing is that trades tend to work with visual communication. A sketch, drawing or actual plan!!! conveys most, or everything we need to know.
But what happens when a customer comes in with a "plan" they drew up themselves and is basically impossible to follow? 🙃 or 😂
"Hot rolled plate 0.75000" and you explain to them that convention is no more digits than needed? But they insist!
Do you give them a price for some thicker piece taken down to _hundredths?_
You ask them the RMS of the finish and they look at you dumbfounded.
It's hard, when the 'client' knows nothing, and a joy when they understand exactly what and how they want it.
@@hersch_toolthat's true for almost any technical work in any field.
Probably two thirds of my day job is spent translating between lawyers, marketing, engineering, and customers.
I came up as an engineer, but the skill of being able to figure out how to communicate with folks who need to have a solid understanding but who have vastly different backgrounds and knowledge than engineers do is... I mean it's something folks can learn, if I'm any indication. Just seems thin on the ground I guess.
I don't know why you said the job wasn't glamorous, shoot, look at all of the machinist glitter you made.
lol true
As long as it keeps the lights on it's a good job. KOKO!
@@jamesreed6121 agreed, thanks!
Nice job that puts a few $$$ in your pocket.
@@Warped65er exactly 👍🙂
Truth be told, a lathe seems more logical for a round part, but would not a mill be more suitable for this? With a vert. head that is? You plop the rotor on the milltable - it sits flat if the table is flat... You check the things with a clock in the spindle and you just chew away that nub with an endmill, finishing it with a flycutter for kicks and looks... Faster setup by at least 10x, easy clamping through the stud holes plus any additional clamping that you want to add... I think that a lathe was a bad call here... A vertical lathe, or rather, a vertical boring jigmill would be the ideal type of lathe for the job, but the traditional horizontal lathe calls for way too much setup, lest you are using a faceplate that would again allow for dead flat seating of the rotor by simple clamping, and the concentricity of the part can easily be soft-whacked into place just to balance the damn thing and not have the lathe try and chase you around the shop in wrath... There are even 4jaw faceplates or rather, 4jaw chucks that are large enough to offer faceplate style clamping with t-slots and shit, while also offering the ind. jaws that can push stuff into position and add extra clamping in case such as this...
Best regards!
Steuss
Yeah, I thought about that actually but respectfully I disagree. I think the lathe is the better choice for this one.
@@hersch_tool Hmmm, entirely possible, especially what with your mill perhaps not having the vert. head ``in gear`` at the moment... But i thought that it would make for an easier and quicker, yet somewhat more reliable setup... I can`t say - haven`t done it both methods myself as to be able to compare them...