Don't sell your self short. You have a lot of talent! The little lecture on threads was good and reminded me of when i was in shop class. I had a great shop teacher, Mr pete reminds me of him. Thanks for the video i enjoyed watching
This is the easiest-to-follow explanation of Single Point Threading that I've seen...And I've seen a bunch in trying to get it down before trying it. Thank you for this!
Thanks very much, I really appreciate that. I spent quite a while working out the presentation in this vid to try and make it as clear and concise, but also accurate as possible. I hope it's helpful. And thank YOU for watching!
A much less chaotic way of cutting threads on a lathe is to turn the tool upside down, run the lathe in reverse, and start from the chuck and cut toward the tail stock. The chips will not be trapped in the "V" and will fall out naturally. You also have more time to disengage the half nut at the end. If you are using an insertable threading tool, you need to use a "left hand" tool so when you flip it upside down the insert is close to the chuck. If your lathe comes up to speed quickly, you can jog the spindle and engage the half nut while over the undercut and then start the spindle which eliminates any panic moments. I was cutting some 3/8-16 threads today on a piece of shit 1946 Springfield lathe using this method. I was taught this method by a German toolmaker when I was 13 years old and I'm now 65. I've never threaded any other way. And because somebody will probably ask, no, you won't cut a left hand thread.
Great explanation of screw cutting 33 years time severed and we were never thought and still aren't in tech so I've been told or maybe i was out that day to dis-in-gauge the half nut or use the compound slide we still just slam that bad boy in reverse and start again also means we don't need a grove at the end of the thread
thanks very much. and yeah i see a lot of folks use that technique, especially pros doing real work. kurtis from CEE keeps it engaged for example. i think it probably saves a bit of time over waiting on the thread dial but at the expense of a little more wear on the half nut maybe. i'm just in my garage so i can take the extra time to disengage and wait, and at least it makes me "feel" like i'm saving a little wear on the nut i guess lol. thanks very much for watching btw
Nicely done video. It will save some folks a little head scratching, e.g. determining the infeed. In physics we learn to visualize a screw as an inclined plane wrapped around a cylinder. This becomes useful when considering the helix angle and pitch as it can be related to measurements on a triangle. BTW the new lathe sounds great.
Thanks very much. I hope that it's helpful for some folks and demonstrates how simple it all really is. Reading through hobby machining forums it seems that cutting your first screw thread is often one of the first big hurdles, and milestone, for a lot of folks learning the lathe. I agree that imagining an inclined plane is a great concept for gaining a deeper understanding of the mechanical properties at work. I wanted to keep it as simple as possible here and relate it directly to the lathe and the physical cutting tool so it seemed like a "shaped groove" made sense at the time. Thank you for watching btw.
I think if you want to find the essence of the thread you can go even further and think of it as a wedge. All the rest of it (helical, shape, etc.) are details resulting from the use we want to give it. This is its function and that dictates its form. We use the thread to wedge things together just like we use the wheel (which at its core is a lever conveniently shaped round) to push ourselves against the road. And just like in the case of the wheel, the rest of it (helical, shape, etc.) are details resulting from the use we want to give it.
lol yup, I don’t even have to check the video to confidently assume that you are almost certainly asking about my Swiss style TFX front turning tool. Good luck though, they are hard to find. Got mine second hand, and finding inserts is like searching for the holy grail. But Swiss front turning tool, that’s what you’re looking for. 😉
What make/model is your threading tool and inserts? I live in Calgary, Canada and have very limited recourses available locally. Thank you in advance for responding! Roger from Calgary.
@@rogervickery9376 I’ll take a look when I’m in the shop and see if there’s any better info on the shank of the holder. But I’m the meantime you can search on a site like shars for the insert type and they’ll normally tell you what options they have for tool holders that fit
Using a thread depth chart shows how deep to cut the relief groove and how far (in thousandths) to advance the compound to arrive at the correct thread depth.
Good video. Couple of things. You spoke of tpi and pitch interchangeably. They're not. Your example of 10 tpi conveniently turns out to be 0.1 pitch, so the math worked. But that's not the rule. Secondly, I think you left out the hardest part of three cutting - depth of cut. This is not straight forward, and depends on thread form (single point cutting tool vs tpi specific cutting tool, using the compound or the cross slide to feed etc). Thanks for the video
something cant figure out something has changed when I switched threading inserts 1/2-13 for example d=p/2+.010x1.154=.056 on the compound slide.... but that wont even start a test bolt I have to go way past plus about .015 cleanup on the cross I always hit my number plus about .005 on cross to clean up but that is way to tight ??? ive not gone back to my hss self grinds or my good insert from Msc or checked lead screw travel with an indicator could be the eclipse im right in the zone of death dead nuts center
Pro tip: For your last couple though, advance your cross-slide in, and dont touch the compound. It'll give you a complete cut on the V and clean up that right hand side, if you need super pretty threads.
I would suggest shortening the outro. It reminds me of a guy that really really really really really really doesn't want to hang up the phone. Thanks for watching guys I appreciate you all I'll see you on the next one. Here's the video you might like
Why do all Americans always ignore 55 degrees (bsf/bsw) and 47.5 deg (ba) still in common use here in the UK model engineering along with metric threads on imperial lathe and vice versa - a reasonable video apart from half the information missing
Because we don't use that system here. Hobbyist here probably would never have a need to use it unless repairing something made in England. SAE or imperial is 99% of all measurements used here. I machine aerospace parts and use bsf/bsw a few times a month.
lol the whole point of the video is that the information is agnostic... the basic information and techniques can be applied to whatever thread form you need, as was stated in the vid. and in the states we "mostly" use 60 and 29 degree threads, as was also stated. but again that's pretty much irrelevant. thanks for watching!
Don't sell your self short. You have a lot of talent! The little lecture on threads was good and reminded me of when i was in shop class. I had a great shop teacher, Mr pete reminds me of him. Thanks for the video i enjoyed watching
Thanks very much, I really appreciate that. And thank you for watching.
Great job explaining a lot of the nuances that other tutorials leave out. I applaud your progress and dedication.
Thanks very much, I really appreciate it. And thank you for watching as well.
This is the easiest-to-follow explanation of Single Point Threading that I've seen...And I've seen a bunch in trying to get it down before trying it. Thank you for this!
thanks very much! i really appreciate that and i hope it's helpful!
You make it look so simple, man. Thank you.
Thanks very much, I really appreciate that. I spent quite a while working out the presentation in this vid to try and make it as clear and concise, but also accurate as possible. I hope it's helpful. And thank YOU for watching!
A much less chaotic way of cutting threads on a lathe is to turn the tool upside down, run the lathe in reverse, and start from the chuck and cut toward the tail stock. The chips will not be trapped in the "V" and will fall out naturally. You also have more time to disengage the half nut at the end. If you are using an insertable threading tool, you need to use a "left hand" tool so when you flip it upside down the insert is close to the chuck. If your lathe comes up to speed quickly, you can jog the spindle and engage the half nut while over the undercut and then start the spindle which eliminates any panic moments. I was cutting some 3/8-16 threads today on a piece of shit 1946 Springfield lathe using this method. I was taught this method by a German toolmaker when I was 13 years old and I'm now 65. I've never threaded any other way. And because somebody will probably ask, no, you won't cut a left hand thread.
You make it look so simple, nice job! Someday I will give it a try.
thanks very much! and got this, go for it!
Great video. What threading insert and holder is that?
Thanks very much. 🙂 Tnmv inserts
Great explanation of screw cutting
33 years time severed and we were never thought and still aren't in tech so I've been told or maybe i was out that day to dis-in-gauge the half nut or use the compound slide we still just slam that bad boy in reverse and start again also means we don't need a grove at the end of the thread
thanks very much. and yeah i see a lot of folks use that technique, especially pros doing real work. kurtis from CEE keeps it engaged for example. i think it probably saves a bit of time over waiting on the thread dial but at the expense of a little more wear on the half nut maybe. i'm just in my garage so i can take the extra time to disengage and wait, and at least it makes me "feel" like i'm saving a little wear on the nut i guess lol. thanks very much for watching btw
Thanku for an easy basic way about threading.
@@vossievos3040 thanks very much for watching
Nicely done video. It will save some folks a little head scratching, e.g. determining the infeed. In physics we learn to visualize a screw as an inclined plane wrapped around a cylinder. This becomes useful when considering the helix angle and pitch as it can be related to measurements on a triangle. BTW the new lathe sounds great.
Thanks very much. I hope that it's helpful for some folks and demonstrates how simple it all really is. Reading through hobby machining forums it seems that cutting your first screw thread is often one of the first big hurdles, and milestone, for a lot of folks learning the lathe. I agree that imagining an inclined plane is a great concept for gaining a deeper understanding of the mechanical properties at work. I wanted to keep it as simple as possible here and relate it directly to the lathe and the physical cutting tool so it seemed like a "shaped groove" made sense at the time. Thank you for watching btw.
I think if you want to find the essence of the thread you can go even further and think of it as a wedge. All the rest of it (helical, shape, etc.) are details resulting from the use we want to give it. This is its function and that dictates its form. We use the thread to wedge things together just like we use the wheel (which at its core is a lever conveniently shaped round) to push ourselves against the road. And just like in the case of the wheel, the rest of it (helical, shape, etc.) are details resulting from the use we want to give it.
I am sure you have answered this a hundred times, what OD turning tool are you using? Thanks in advance😊
lol yup, I don’t even have to check the video to confidently assume that you are almost certainly asking about my Swiss style TFX front turning tool. Good luck though, they are hard to find. Got mine second hand, and finding inserts is like searching for the holy grail. But Swiss front turning tool, that’s what you’re looking for. 😉
As always, great video!
thanks!
What make/model is your threading tool and inserts? I live in Calgary, Canada and have very limited recourses available locally. Thank you in advance for responding!
Roger from Calgary.
It was actually a real question bud. Thanks.
@@rogervickery9376 I can’t remember off hand the make the make of the tool holder, maybe valenite? But it takes tnma inserts. Thanks for watching btw!
@@hersch_tool Thanks, great video! I'll keep trying to find a supplier.
@@rogervickery9376 I’ll take a look when I’m in the shop and see if there’s any better info on the shank of the holder. But I’m the meantime you can search on a site like shars for the insert type and they’ll normally tell you what options they have for tool holders that fit
@@hersch_tool Will do, I'll have a look. I would like something of quality like maybe Walter, but I'll have a look. Again, thanks bud.
Very good video. Helpful.
Thanks very much, and thanks for watching
Thank you, enjoyed that.
Thanks very much for watching
Using a thread depth chart shows how deep to cut the relief groove and how far (in thousandths) to advance the compound to arrive at the correct thread depth.
Love the ultra dry humor!
thank you very much!
Thank you.
Thank you for watching
Thx for the vid.
Thanks for watching 🙂
Good video. Couple of things. You spoke of tpi and pitch interchangeably. They're not. Your example of 10 tpi conveniently turns out to be 0.1 pitch, so the math worked. But that's not the rule. Secondly, I think you left out the hardest part of three cutting - depth of cut. This is not straight forward, and depends on thread form (single point cutting tool vs tpi specific cutting tool, using the compound or the cross slide to feed etc). Thanks for the video
something cant figure out something has changed when I switched threading inserts 1/2-13 for example d=p/2+.010x1.154=.056 on the compound slide.... but that wont even start a test bolt I have to go way past plus about .015 cleanup on the cross I always hit my number plus about .005 on cross to clean up but that is way to tight ??? ive not gone back to my hss self grinds or my good insert from Msc or checked lead screw travel with an indicator could be the eclipse im right in the zone of death dead nuts center
Pro tip: For your last couple though, advance your cross-slide in, and dont touch the compound. It'll give you a complete cut on the V and clean up that right hand side, if you need super pretty threads.
That's a great tip, makes a lot of sense. I'll remember that, thanks!
@@hersch_tool That's the contact face, so when we do rifle barrels, we want that as smooth as possible. :)
@@FullSendPrecision That's super cool. I've been eyeballing the SDI online courses. Would like to get into that stuff at some point.
The thought of having to disengage the halfnut before you crash the lathe fills me with dread tbh.
Haha, it's really not that bad, or difficult.
I would suggest shortening the outro. It reminds me of a guy that really really really really really really doesn't want to hang up the phone. Thanks for watching guys I appreciate you all I'll see you on the next one. Here's the video you might like
thanks for the feedback
I m cylinder grinding machine operator and Letha muchine operator manual
Great job. Two thumbs up for incoherent babble.
Haha, thanks
👍👍😎👍👍
thanks!
Just a friendly observation. Your wrist is showing signs of a lot of backlash. 😊
my wrist actually has a screw in it, broke it when i was a kid, so that's funnier than you probably intended... 😂 thanks!
Helix 🧬 , not spiral, I think. Spirals change their radius, like a death spiral 🌀 to a point.
Yeah good point, thanks. I was winging it and am braced to get plenty of feedback on all the things I got wrong on this one 😉
@@hersch_tool We are all learning. Great show.
Tapered threads.😉
even better if you use the metric system
lol wat
I love your channel, but the strings on your sweatshirt worry me!
lol thank you, on both accounts. I’ll have to remember to remove them 😉
Threads are basically an inclined plane wrapped around a cylinder.
Why do all Americans always ignore 55 degrees (bsf/bsw) and 47.5 deg (ba) still in common use here in the UK model engineering along with metric threads on imperial lathe and vice versa - a reasonable video apart from half the information missing
Because we don't use that system here. Hobbyist here probably would never have a need to use it unless repairing something made in England. SAE or imperial is 99% of all measurements used here. I machine aerospace parts and use bsf/bsw a few times a month.
you want a metric unit watch a metric channel
damn are you not happy until all of the good machinist channels use your stupid units? fucks sake man.
lol the whole point of the video is that the information is agnostic... the basic information and techniques can be applied to whatever thread form you need, as was stated in the vid. and in the states we "mostly" use 60 and 29 degree threads, as was also stated. but again that's pretty much irrelevant. thanks for watching!