Thanks buddy!, I'll finally have some new videos come out, I did a bunch of axle work, installed lockers front and rear, redid the whole wiring harness. Just haven't got around to editing anything yet. Running like a champ though
Great video and fantastic build, we currently have a 1009 that is mechanically sound but rusted badly. One technical correction if I may. The lights that you pointed out were not IR, they were the system that the army used for night movement of all tactical vehicles at the time. Each light had 4 slots that emitted low level light and I think they were all on the same bulb . Essentially, if you were following another vehicle at night, and saw 4 dots, you were too close, 2 dots and you were good, a single dot, too far. Simple and effective. The front mount that you pointed out was a headlight of sorts but didnt help all that much. It was amazing how well this system worked. Again congratulations on an awesome build!!
Hey enjoyed the video. Can I give a couple of pointers. In the military guys say M-ten -Oh-9.Its short and easy to say just advice not criticizing. Also the blackout lights are not infrared. You could use night vision with them but you don't need to. The rear lights will show as one at night but as you get closer you can see its 2 on each side within the unit. That lets the guys following know that they are getting to close. Other military trucks have the 4 cat eyes and as you get close they are easy to differentiate so they can back off some. Love the rig its beautiful and the vid is good to great work!!
Thanks for the comments man! I actually posted that question on steel soldiers a few years back, ten oh9 versus m1 zerozero9 lol. Yeah and about the lights, unfortunately you can't edit TH-cam videos after you post them, and I didn't want to delete it and put it back up
It also appears that the "dash bezel" has been replaced by a civilian part. The CUCV's did not have vents, and the blackout light switches were on the lower left of the bezel, not underneath on the metal.
We had a couple of M1008 pickups in my Hellenic Army unit during the early 1990s, US Army surplus. It's a shame they didn't come with spares, many were cannibalized before they were pulled out of active service after 4-5 years. Several are privately owned and still running, although mostly in rough shape and lacking the front brushguard (legal issues regarding the last one). Greetings from Greece!
That's pretty awesome! When I was researching some specs for the video, I was surprised to find how many different countries they shipped these trucks to. The government here liquidated most of them in the early 2000s, so if you want one you have to buy one second hand. I'm currently looking for an m1008
The "Blackout" light function powers the "Convoy Lights" on the bumpers while turning off the brake lights, turn signals and headlights. That way hitting the brakes while driving in the dark doesn't give your position away by illuminating the brake lights in the back.
That round plug on the inside was for the ICE system. I don’t remember what the acronym means, but it was basically an early version of OBD the military used.
Interesting, I didn't think there were any computer chips on these cars. Maybe it allowed sensor inputs to go to an external computer? I always thought it was was a standardized plug for military items
@@ExoticCarDIY I’m not sure how it worked. Starting in the ‘80s they were in everything from CUCVs and HUMWWVs to M1 tanks and artillery pieces. I’ve been out of the military since 2011, and they were even in the newer armored HUMWWVs and other vehicles I was I. For 22 years and was even a mechanic for awhile and never used one.
The connection was for the STE-ICE machine. There we no computers or codes in the CUCV. The STE-ICE would only read info from various sensors on the vehicle and the mechanic would have to compare the readings to those listed in the TM (Technical Manual), to make a diagnosis.
well, there's not a lot of components to break, and being an common truck, everything's things cheap. $80 radiator, $22 water pump, $8 glow plugs etc... I would avoid any truck with rust, it's very hard and expensive to fix, and it just makes everything hard to work on.
LRG you should look for rust, also check for 24 volt. If someone has butchered the electrical its a pain to troubleshoot. IF they said they did the roscomm mod for 24 to 12v conversion its not bad you can look it up. Electrical as minimal as it is seems to be the achilles heel for most people working on these. Also check for rust on the cab roof. Any serious rust on the roof inside or out and I would avoid it unless your a body man. Some of these have the seal go bad between the fiberglass top and the cab roof, water runs into the bolt holes and rust the roof out above the cab. When you go to look at it, if its 24v still both GEN1 and GEN2 lights need to come on when you turn on the key, that means the alternators should be exciting to charge the batteries. Its not a deal breaker but just something to look for. These trucks are very easy to work on and you can get the Technical Manuals online for free that the military used for trouble shooting and repairs. Great trucks and lots of fun plus easy to maintain. Good luck!!!
@@ExoticCarDIY sir, I'm trying to replace my radiator and the cheapest I've found is $600, you mentioned $80, could you point me in the right direction? Thank you, and your videos are awesome!
@@1libertas426 I bought mine off of eBay, currently I don't see any listed. But the exact part number I bought was APDI 8010607 the seller was KMC Autoparts
Could you elaborate a little on how you did the AC? Which compressor did you use, and where is it mounted? Do these run with a typical V-belt system or serpentine? And any other aspects you may think to advise on? I’m a K5’r and have the opportunity to buy a M1009. Being in Oklahoma I need to add AC for sure. It’s going to be miserable starting next week til about Halloween lol.
I took a ton of pictures, unfortunately I didn't film any of it. Really wish I had filmed the restoration. Currently looking for an m1008 that I will record the restoration if anyone knows the one lol. Anyway, I debated converting it to a serpentine system from a 6.5, but ultimately ended up on keeping the v-belt system and it hasn't caused me any issues. All the parts came from a civilian 6.2 donor car. The driver side alternator was removed and an h6 compressor installed in its place with OEM brackets. The lines were OEM, but had to be modified a little bit to clear my turbo. A rectangle hole needs to be cut into the firewall, I simply use the AC box as a template. You do have to relocate the CUCV power bus that is on the firewall to mount the AC parts. If you want, I can send you pictures
@@ExoticCarDIY that would be great. Lancehammon@hotmail.com. If I get ahold of this one I’ll get with you and see if it’s feasible for you to film the conversion on it.
I am in the middle of building one of my own and I want to run the humvee tires but I cannot get the offset on them right. Did you use spacers or how did you get them to sit so perfectly?
I'm running 74 in wide dually axles. Stock axles are only about 67 in wide. That's a hell of a spacer, I personally am not a fan of spacers, I would just swap the hubs out with dually hubs
Thanks for the overview. I'm in the market and will keep you posted on my findings. I spoke with my diesel man, he said good motors will last many miles but a dog, Bank's turbo is the way to go. Did you have any issues with the banks kit, what is the approx cost, did you do anything to the engine prior to putting on the Bank's? Than you,
Mine came with it, seem to help quite a bit from the other 6.2 ive had in the past, but still pretty underpowered in modern terms. No engine mods, the previous owner even says he never adjusted the injector pump. Ive been wanted to tweak it , but just procrastinating since I've been debating a LBZ swap
Hey man, that's honestly an amazing build, genuinely awesome, been looking into trying to get a m1009 myself and I'm honestly kinda struggling to find one, any tips on where to look?
Thanks, mine actually showed up on ebay, but that's no longer a very good option. There are several CUCV groups on Facebook and I see these pop up from time to time. That's probably your best bet right now
@@ExoticCarDIY 14 bolt from the 3/4 ton burban and pickup will have the correct pad spring pad width for bolt in. Some wheel spacers would look good too, cover that full float hub a bit. 8 lug is pretty safe for spacers. a 14 bolt detroit locker is cheapest way to go. all the m1028's have a limited slip in the front dana 60.
@@raisinbartholamew5864 yeah I had a Dana 60 and 14bff on my previous k5. However on this one, with the offset it the H1 wheels, both of those Axles are dually axles with ~75"wms widths. I think a 14bff is 69" so that would need a 3-in spacer per side. Might be the best option though we'll see.
@@kennethderamus5277 yup, unfortunately you have the locker issue with the dually rear 70.. I ended up just getting re-centered 12 bolt hmmwv rims for mine, rather than doing a dually hub conversion on the front and spacers in the rear.
Hey brother really like the blazer picked me up a 83 k5 blazer civilian model with the 6.2. So the truck had ac but they put a banks turbo kit and deleted it. How did you do your system and where did you find the stuff for it. Another question for you is how does the truck not leak oil🤣 mine pukes oil changed quite a bit of stuff just haven't got to take a look at the valve covers or rear main. I already sealed the pan changed the cdr and checked for fuel leaks no dice anything would help man.
Wonder why they deleted it? The only thing I can think is that the military ones have two alternators so I deleted the driver side alternator and put the AC compressor there. Rooting the refrigerant lines around the turbo was tricky but doable. I almost rather have AC than a turbo here in Florida lol. I have a photo album that has all the pictures of the AC retrofit if you're interested I can email it to you. Old trucks leak oil, it's kind of a constant thing you got to keep addressing. Right now mine seeps from the transmission pan. But the rear main, valve covers, and oil pan are good. Got a bunch of stuff on the to-do list coming up soon
@@ExoticCarDIY I honestly don't know why they deleted it but it's an original ac truck which is kinda dumb to delete it lol. And dang okay I am just going to have to figure out where its leaking. If you want my Instagram is j_cap0lot. I don't really have an email. But I would like to see how you did it just to see the placement.
It's still the popular gci rapco paint, 34086, But with added valspar enamel hardener. It adds a small sheen as you can see, but it is a quite a bit more durable than the gci by itself.
I'm honestly not sure, they'd be pretty surprised if I brought it in to the service Bay LOL. I obviously DIY everything, so that will be a mystery I'll never know
I currently tow my boat, which is about 5k and I've towed a loaded utility trailer around 7k. It seems to tow the boat fine, The utility trailer was kind of pushing it. the short wheel base of the blazer makes it inherently not the best for towing. I wouldn't try taking a heavy trailer on the highway. If I had to guess, probably 210hp/300tq
@@ExoticCarDIY Thanks for the response, now the only other question I have is did you use the original pintle hitch or have you put a class 3 on yours? 5K is about what most people feel comfortable with on these m1009s I was just curious if your rear end swap helped or felt better. I know the original gearing on these is 3.08 but with a Dana 70 I’m assuming you have the 4.10 which should help significantly. Probably hurts fuel though who cares on a resto mod.
The J Code 6.2L V8's in the D10's-D30's/M1008's-M1031's were all 155 HP/275 TQ and came naturally aspirated.The C Code 6.2L V8's were what the civilian trucks and vans used,even though the J Code was still optional.The only difference between them other than power ratings was that the C Code had EGR,but the J Code didn't. Now,just like for the 6.9L IDI & 7.3L IDI,the 6.2L had the availability of having a Banks kit if you wanted one from a GM dealership.The kit added 60 HP/115 TQ if done correctly and 5-10 PSI on boost.It was also mentioned that it was suppose to add a 20% increase for fuel efficiency. Honestly,it didn't really matter on power because Detroit built these engines just for fuel efficiency in trucks,not for high end torque.They obviously were reliable and easy to fix enough that the military used them and had well over 80,000 CUCV's ordered and manufactured within a couple of years.The 6.2L V8's right after the CUCV's were what the AM General M998's all used before later variants of the Humvees debuted.
Hello Kenny, my name is Chris and I recently came to be an owner of a M1009. I would love to build mine like yours and want to know how it is going with the different transmission and axles you installed? How’s the MPG and driving her on the freeway? TIA
I just bought one and had a lot of work done on the bottom which has basically been rebuilt - I am ready to work on interior now but there is strong diesel smell when I drive it that I need to get rid of - also it has large dual exhaust pipes that someone out on and I want to remove - any ideas how to get the diesel smell out - there is s9me rust on outside but not bad and frame is I. Good shape
I completely stripped my interior sanded and repainted it. Before it did smell of 35 years of use. I would start with making sure there are no fuel leaks. There's a few FB groups on cucv's as well as steelsoldiers msg forum as good resources
I'd like to add a winch, lockers and also work on a motor swap. I'd love this to have the capability and reliability of a new truck, just in an old body. Duramax
From my research, all the government sites liquidated the last of them a few years ago. The best place I've seen is either steel soldiers message forums or the Facebook groups
What are the three aftermarket gauges you have mounted? Are they for the turbo? I have a 85 CUCV M1009 and I wanted to put a temp gauge in it. Do you have any recommendations? Thanks for your time and great video🇺🇸
The previous owner had those installed there. They are volts, oil pressure, and water temp. All good gauges to have, I would personally like to add EGT and boost as well. But at the same time, I don't like the clutter of just a bunch of random gauges everywhere. My goal is to maybe put two or three of them in the factory cluster, but working with old plastic can be frustrating. Plus it requires basically hacking up the cluster behind the bezel. Alternatively, I wouldn't mind it one electronic gauge that shows everything, if there is such a product. Another job for another day. I've had the blazer on the lift for almost 2 weeks just trying to trace down every leak right now. Wish I had more time to do all the stuff
@@ExoticCarDIY think with a 5 speed manual and the right gearing and some skinnier tires it could get over 20? I have a 1st gen 4runner and was going to diesel swap it but have found the inside is a little small and grabbing one of these that already has a diesel would be cheaper and more spacious
My M1009 is all stock, with 31" tires, I'm averaging around 21 mpg. Being stock mine has the original 3.08 ratio axels. The HD400 Transmission these trucks have are about as heavy-duty as they come, I believe they might have the straight-cut gears and are the same transmission used in many tow trucks from the same era. The best thing about these trucks, they will burn any diesel based fuel and are simple enough that you'll never need to take it to a Dealership for repair or maintenance (no electronics or software updates 😉).
Lot of time sweat and blood LOL. I did it all myself, stripped it down to just frame, body and motor. Replaced everything rubber, most of the glass. I'd still like to get the seats redone and possibly a motor swap but I'm torn. Part of what makes it a m1009, is the fact that it has an old Diesel with no electronics, but I'd love to daily drive this more, if it had like a Duramax Allison combo, I would use it a lot more
Various places, mostly the original parts came from LMC truck. A lot of the CUCV specific parts came from hillbilly wizard. And everything else is pretty much junkyards and eBay
They are relatively reliable. Failed are usual minor, leaks, a glow plug... Occasionally something big like an injector pump Rough 3500, normal rust but clean 7500, no rust 12500, restored 25,000+. I've been offered that, not selling it tho.
@@ExoticCarDIY theres a fully restored one at streetsideclassics for 38k. But they put aftermarket speakers which im not into. But other than that its clean looking.
The Convoy lights and block out drive light are NOT infrared They ARE regular lights just low intensity.. And the plug inside is not a NATO plug it is the diagnostic plug for use with the STE/ICE vehicle test meter
Haha, so much has gone on since that last video. I'm still working on mine to this day. I have about six unedited videos, axles lockers new Wheels wiring harness etc etc
I like the originality of the 62 with the added benefit of the turbo. But I kind of want to make this my daily. I'm a big fan of Duramax, actually kind of thinking a LBZ swap
Took me 4 tries to find one when no rust. Good luck, they are getting hard to find and the good ones are expensive now! Ive been offered high 20s already!
@@MrSrtman18 I found this one on eBay, honestly, thats usually the last place I look. It's was ugly, but I knew it was rust free and already had the axels I wanted. Anyway, one of the best resources now is one of the several cucv Facebook groups
Yeah, that information was from a thread on steel soldiers. Here is a better description: The small lights, front and back, are called "cats eye" lights and are used by the drivers during blackout conditions (light discipline) to keep vehicles in line during night movements. The hooded white light in the grill is the "blackout driving light". This light is switched on independently of the "cats eyes" and casts a dim white light on the ground for a short distance to the left front of the vehicle, in front of the driver. This light is so the driver can see the ground guide who is walking in front of the vehicle to guide it. The development of night vision devices has greatly reduced the need for the blackout lights, especially the blackout driving light. Military vehicles still have the capablity for when night vision devices are not available. The specialized switching prevents the accidental appearance of any lights, including brake lights and turn signals, during periods of light discipline when the appearance of a light would give away the position of vehicles (and troops) to the enemy.
I love how people make stupid uneducated comments on people's TH-camrs videos. The m1009 actually rated as a 3/4 ton vehicle, not 1/2. There is more than frames factors in to the "X-ton class" of trucks. Is the frame different on a Chevy 2500 vs 3500? Nope, exact same frame. Does this blazer have 1ton axles? Actually no, the came off a 1.5 ton truck... so is this blazer still a 3/4 ton m1009, is 1ton or 1.5ton? I can tell you the most wrong answer is yours, it was never a half ton. Since no one upgrades frames, the common way to quickly let people know you've done an axles swap is to refer the rating of the new axles. I guess I could have made the title a paragraph for you: “originally military designated 3/4 ton m1009 that has been upgraded to 1.5 tons axles, yet still retains the original 3/4 frame."
You did a friggin outstanding beautiful restoration on that truck !!!!!!!!!!…….that is something to be extremely proud of you know your stuff !!!!!!!
Thanks buddy!, I'll finally have some new videos come out, I did a bunch of axle work, installed lockers front and rear, redid the whole wiring harness. Just haven't got around to editing anything yet. Running like a champ though
👍👍👍👍👍I will be watching it can’t wait thanks.
In a Garage with Merc's, Ferraris and other stuff the K5 is his favorite car - thats a real man :)
Great video and fantastic build, we currently have a 1009 that is mechanically sound but rusted badly. One technical correction if I may. The lights that you pointed out were not IR, they were the system that the army used for night movement of all tactical vehicles at the time. Each light had 4 slots that emitted low level light and I think they were all on the same bulb . Essentially, if you were following another vehicle at night, and saw 4 dots, you were too close, 2 dots and you were good, a single dot, too far. Simple and effective. The front mount that you pointed out was a headlight of sorts but didnt help all that much. It was amazing how well this system worked. Again congratulations on an awesome build!!
Ya, wish I could edit it.
They're called Blackout drive lights
Hey enjoyed the video. Can I give a couple of pointers. In the military guys say M-ten -Oh-9.Its short and easy to say just advice not criticizing. Also the blackout lights are not infrared. You could use night vision with them but you don't need to. The rear lights will show as one at night but as you get closer you can see its 2 on each side within the unit. That lets the guys following know that they are getting to close. Other military trucks have the 4 cat eyes and as you get close they are easy to differentiate so they can back off some. Love the rig its beautiful and the vid is good to great work!!
Thanks for the comments man!
I actually posted that question on steel soldiers a few years back, ten oh9 versus m1 zerozero9 lol.
Yeah and about the lights, unfortunately you can't edit TH-cam videos after you post them, and I didn't want to delete it and put it back up
It also appears that the "dash bezel" has been replaced by a civilian part. The CUCV's did not have vents, and the blackout light switches were on the lower left of the bezel, not underneath on the metal.
MY DAD HAD A REGULAR K 5 BLAZER WE SNOWPLOWED WITH HER WENT TO THE MOUNTAINS THERE COOL TRUCKS!!!
Awesome, this is my fourth one, they've always held a special place in my mind since I was a kid
Man thats a solid unit! I never new they Existed! I want one!
Thanks man, they are pretty unique. Still a work in progress
We had a couple of M1008 pickups in my Hellenic Army unit during the early 1990s, US Army surplus. It's a shame they didn't come with spares, many were cannibalized before they were pulled out of active service after 4-5 years. Several are privately owned and still running, although mostly in rough shape and lacking the front brushguard (legal issues regarding the last one). Greetings from Greece!
That's pretty awesome! When I was researching some specs for the video, I was surprised to find how many different countries they shipped these trucks to. The government here liquidated most of them in the early 2000s, so if you want one you have to buy one second hand. I'm currently looking for an m1008
verry nice car or truk......
Your headlight is a 'blackout light.' Most likely just a very weak flashlight type bulb. Infrared look different from those.
Yes you are correct,
The "Blackout" light function powers the "Convoy Lights" on the bumpers while turning off the brake lights, turn signals and headlights. That way hitting the brakes while driving in the dark doesn't give your position away by illuminating the brake lights in the back.
That’s an awesome ride! Thanks for sharing.
I wonder if there are any aftermarket uses for the Nato plug.
That would be awesome. One guy makes a gauge to replace the inside one, but it only shows voltage? Lame
Id love to have one that looks as good as this one
Awesome truck man.
Thanks!
Awesome car!!!
Love the good old blazer! Well Dun! #terminator
AWESOME CHEVY❤
Still my favorite! looking for a m1008 /1028 now
Badass bro
That round plug on the inside was for the ICE system. I don’t remember what the acronym means, but it was basically an early version of OBD the military used.
Interesting, I didn't think there were any computer chips on these cars. Maybe it allowed sensor inputs to go to an external computer? I always thought it was was a standardized plug for military items
@@ExoticCarDIY I’m not sure how it worked. Starting in the ‘80s they were in everything from CUCVs and HUMWWVs to M1 tanks and artillery pieces. I’ve been out of the military since 2011, and they were even in the newer armored HUMWWVs and other vehicles I was I. For 22 years and was even a mechanic for awhile and never used one.
The acronym stands for Special Test Equipment- Internal Combustion Engine
@@frankthomas2231 awesome, thanks for that info man
The connection was for the STE-ICE machine. There we no computers or codes in the CUCV. The STE-ICE would only read info from various sensors on the vehicle and the mechanic would have to compare the readings to those listed in the TM (Technical Manual), to make a diagnosis.
Sweet ride!!! Had a GMC 79 Jimmy and then a 84 Blazer. Regret selling them. Found a m1009 for sale and thinking about it?
Go for it! Rust is my only disqualifier. My other square bodies had the cancer, never again. I'm looking for a m1008 right now
What size are those led pods on the front I thought about doing the same to mine but with a yellow led bar
Hey Kenny, what would be the top ten "or more" things to look for when looking to buy an M1009. Thanks
well, there's not a lot of components to break, and being an common truck, everything's things cheap. $80 radiator, $22 water pump, $8 glow plugs etc...
I would avoid any truck with rust, it's very hard and expensive to fix, and it just makes everything hard to work on.
LRG you should look for rust, also check for 24 volt. If someone has butchered the electrical its a pain to troubleshoot. IF they said they did the roscomm mod for 24 to 12v conversion its not bad you can look it up. Electrical as minimal as it is seems to be the achilles heel for most people working on these. Also check for rust on the cab roof. Any serious rust on the roof inside or out and I would avoid it unless your a body man. Some of these have the seal go bad between the fiberglass top and the cab roof, water runs into the bolt holes and rust the roof out above the cab. When you go to look at it, if its 24v still both GEN1 and GEN2 lights need to come on when you turn on the key, that means the alternators should be exciting to charge the batteries. Its not a deal breaker but just something to look for. These trucks are very easy to work on and you can get the Technical Manuals online for free that the military used for trouble shooting and repairs. Great trucks and lots of fun plus easy to maintain. Good luck!!!
@@ExoticCarDIY sir, I'm trying to replace my radiator and the cheapest I've found is $600, you mentioned $80, could you point me in the right direction? Thank you, and your videos are awesome!
@@1libertas426 I bought mine off of eBay, currently I don't see any listed. But the exact part number I bought was APDI 8010607 the seller was KMC Autoparts
I had my radiator re-cored by Fingers Radiator in NJ. They did a beautiful job. Give them a call
Could you elaborate a little on how you did the AC? Which compressor did you use, and where is it mounted? Do these run with a typical V-belt system or serpentine? And any other aspects you may think to advise on? I’m a K5’r and have the opportunity to buy a M1009. Being in Oklahoma I need to add AC for sure. It’s going to be miserable starting next week til about Halloween lol.
I took a ton of pictures, unfortunately I didn't film any of it. Really wish I had filmed the restoration. Currently looking for an m1008 that I will record the restoration if anyone knows the one lol.
Anyway, I debated converting it to a serpentine system from a 6.5, but ultimately ended up on keeping the v-belt system and it hasn't caused me any issues. All the parts came from a civilian 6.2 donor car. The driver side alternator was removed and an h6 compressor installed in its place with OEM brackets. The lines were OEM, but had to be modified a little bit to clear my turbo.
A rectangle hole needs to be cut into the firewall, I simply use the AC box as a template.
You do have to relocate the CUCV power bus that is on the firewall to mount the AC parts. If you want, I can send you pictures
@@ExoticCarDIY that would be great. Lancehammon@hotmail.com. If I get ahold of this one I’ll get with you and see if it’s feasible for you to film the conversion on it.
I am in the middle of building one of my own and I want to run the humvee tires but I cannot get the offset on them right. Did you use spacers or how did you get them to sit so perfectly?
I'm running 74 in wide dually axles. Stock axles are only about 67 in wide. That's a hell of a spacer, I personally am not a fan of spacers, I would just swap the hubs out with dually hubs
@@ExoticCarDIY that’s exactly what I am planning on doing so I’m glad I was right to plan on going this route
Ken, I read the comments and others commented on the black out system already. Sorry for sharp shooing. Best
Thanks for the overview. I'm in the market and will keep you posted on my findings. I spoke with my diesel man, he said good motors will last many miles but a dog, Bank's turbo is the way to go. Did you have any issues with the banks kit, what is the approx cost, did you do anything to the engine prior to putting on the Bank's?
Than you,
Mine came with it, seem to help quite a bit from the other 6.2 ive had in the past, but still pretty underpowered in modern terms. No engine mods, the previous owner even says he never adjusted the injector pump. Ive been wanted to tweak it , but just procrastinating since I've been debating a LBZ swap
Hey man, that's honestly an amazing build, genuinely awesome, been looking into trying to get a m1009 myself and I'm honestly kinda struggling to find one, any tips on where to look?
Thanks, mine actually showed up on ebay, but that's no longer a very good option. There are several CUCV groups on Facebook and I see these pop up from time to time. That's probably your best bet right now
Me, make me an offer
I would put 56" leaf springs in the rear and stretch the wheel base a little. makes it look more proportional.
Little by little working on the upgrades. I need lockers fist. cant find any for that stupid "super 70" in the rear.
@@ExoticCarDIY 14 bolt from the 3/4 ton burban and pickup will have the correct pad spring pad width for bolt in. Some wheel spacers would look good too, cover that full float hub a bit. 8 lug is pretty safe for spacers. a 14 bolt detroit locker is cheapest way to go. all the m1028's have a limited slip in the front dana 60.
@@raisinbartholamew5864 yeah I had a Dana 60 and 14bff on my previous k5.
However on this one, with the offset it the H1 wheels, both of those Axles are dually axles with ~75"wms widths. I think a 14bff is 69" so that would need a 3-in spacer per side. Might be the best option though we'll see.
@@kennethderamus5277 yup, unfortunately you have the locker issue with the dually rear 70.. I ended up just getting re-centered 12 bolt hmmwv rims for mine, rather than doing a dually hub conversion on the front and spacers in the rear.
Hey brother really like the blazer picked me up a 83 k5 blazer civilian model with the 6.2. So the truck had ac but they put a banks turbo kit and deleted it. How did you do your system and where did you find the stuff for it. Another question for you is how does the truck not leak oil🤣 mine pukes oil changed quite a bit of stuff just haven't got to take a look at the valve covers or rear main. I already sealed the pan changed the cdr and checked for fuel leaks no dice anything would help man.
Wonder why they deleted it? The only thing I can think is that the military ones have two alternators so I deleted the driver side alternator and put the AC compressor there. Rooting the refrigerant lines around the turbo was tricky but doable. I almost rather have AC than a turbo here in Florida lol. I have a photo album that has all the pictures of the AC retrofit if you're interested I can email it to you.
Old trucks leak oil, it's kind of a constant thing you got to keep addressing. Right now mine seeps from the transmission pan. But the rear main, valve covers, and oil pan are good. Got a bunch of stuff on the to-do list coming up soon
@@ExoticCarDIY I honestly don't know why they deleted it but it's an original ac truck which is kinda dumb to delete it lol. And dang okay I am just going to have to figure out where its leaking. If you want my Instagram is j_cap0lot. I don't really have an email. But I would like to see how you did it just to see the placement.
@@jjsilva6670 I'll send a link to your IG it'll come from K&r Motorsports
Nice chevy k5 modell m1009
Love it!
Thanks!! There is something special about those old squarebodies.
@@ExoticCarDIY Defo - and for me it also evokes the 80's, MacGuyver, The A-Team, Delta Force, all that good stuff 😁
Sweet M1009!!
Looks great.
Thanks buddy!
Nice CUCV What Paint did you actually use, you said 2 part, what color code, Thanks
It's still the popular gci rapco paint, 34086, But with added valspar enamel hardener. It adds a small sheen as you can see, but it is a quite a bit more durable than the gci by itself.
I want this as a Daily Driver!! Would a Chevrolet Dealership Maintain this??
I'm honestly not sure, they'd be pretty surprised if I brought it in to the service Bay LOL.
I obviously DIY everything, so that will be a mystery I'll never know
If I may ask, what would you say your power and torque ratings are? Have you towed anything with the new axles?
I currently tow my boat, which is about 5k and I've towed a loaded utility trailer around 7k.
It seems to tow the boat fine, The utility trailer was kind of pushing it. the short wheel base of the blazer makes it inherently not the best for towing. I wouldn't try taking a heavy trailer on the highway.
If I had to guess, probably 210hp/300tq
@@ExoticCarDIY Thanks for the response, now the only other question I have is did you use the original pintle hitch or have you put a class 3 on yours? 5K is about what most people feel comfortable with on these m1009s I was just curious if your rear end swap helped or felt better. I know the original gearing on these is 3.08 but with a Dana 70 I’m assuming you have the 4.10 which should help significantly. Probably hurts fuel though who cares on a resto mod.
@@nathanowens1721 mine has 410 gears. I did put a Kurt class 3 hitch on
You have done some cool things but wtf? Get that bitch dirty! Get some scratches! Give it some bad to the bone look!
The J Code 6.2L V8's in the D10's-D30's/M1008's-M1031's were all 155 HP/275 TQ and came naturally aspirated.The C Code 6.2L V8's were what the civilian trucks and vans used,even though the J Code was still optional.The only difference between them other than power ratings was that the C Code had EGR,but the J Code didn't.
Now,just like for the 6.9L IDI & 7.3L IDI,the 6.2L had the availability of having a Banks kit if you wanted one from a GM dealership.The kit added 60 HP/115 TQ if done correctly and 5-10 PSI on boost.It was also mentioned that it was suppose to add a 20% increase for fuel efficiency.
Honestly,it didn't really matter on power because Detroit built these engines just for fuel efficiency in trucks,not for high end torque.They obviously were reliable and easy to fix enough that the military used them and had well over 80,000 CUCV's ordered and manufactured within a couple of years.The 6.2L V8's right after the CUCV's were what the AM General M998's all used before later variants of the Humvees debuted.
Hello Kenny, my name is Chris and I recently came to be an owner of a M1009. I would love to build mine like yours and want to know how it is going with the different transmission and axles you installed? How’s the MPG and driving her on the freeway? TIA
@exoticcardiy Did you get yours from a private party or from a government auction? I remember these when I was in the Corps in the 1980’s.
I bought my first m1009 directly from the gov, this one was purchase from a private individual who bought it from the gov
Wow you don't see too many Seabee markings out there 👍
It was a nice surprise to find that underneath the old paint.
I was in a Seabee battalion, not alot of ppl know about them.
@@jeffwilliams5619 my grand father was well as one of my coworkers were both former seabees as well. Thank you for your service!
I just bought one and had a lot of work done on the bottom which has basically been rebuilt - I am ready to work on interior now but there is strong diesel smell when I drive it that I need to get rid of - also it has large dual exhaust pipes that someone out on and I want to remove - any ideas how to get the diesel smell out - there is s9me rust on outside but not bad and frame is I. Good shape
I completely stripped my interior sanded and repainted it. Before it did smell of 35 years of use.
I would start with making sure there are no fuel leaks.
There's a few FB groups on cucv's as well as steelsoldiers msg forum as good resources
BADASS truck man, I may have missed it, but what lift did you use? And how tall?
4" springs in the front, ORD shackle flip in the rear. Thanks man!
That radio plug is also 24 volt
this is almost exactly what i want to do with my k5 blazer. build a night vision rig for coyotes
I'd like to add a winch, lockers and also work on a motor swap.
I'd love this to have the capability and reliability of a new truck, just in an old body. Duramax
When you bolted on the HMMWV rims, did you use 2" spacers?
No spacers, my axles are actually from a dually. Otherwise yes, I would like 4in spacers to run H1 Wheels
It’s perfect
Thanks man!
Where's a good source to find one of these? I've been searching gsa, and govplanet auctions. Any other reliable sources?
From my research, all the government sites liquidated the last of them a few years ago.
The best place I've seen is either steel soldiers message forums or the Facebook groups
where are you in FL ??
Ne
in the capital city 👍👍
@@ExoticCarDIY how to get in contact with you, I have a 86 with a 6.2.......
@@soulfultenor sure, my email is my channels name at Gmail
What are the three aftermarket gauges you have mounted? Are they for the turbo? I have a 85 CUCV M1009 and I wanted to put a temp gauge in it. Do you have any recommendations? Thanks for your time and great video🇺🇸
The previous owner had those installed there. They are volts, oil pressure, and water temp.
All good gauges to have, I would personally like to add EGT and boost as well. But at the same time, I don't like the clutter of just a bunch of random gauges everywhere.
My goal is to maybe put two or three of them in the factory cluster, but working with old plastic can be frustrating. Plus it requires basically hacking up the cluster behind the bezel. Alternatively, I wouldn't mind it one electronic gauge that shows everything, if there is such a product. Another job for another day.
I've had the blazer on the lift for almost 2 weeks just trying to trace down every leak right now. Wish I had more time to do all the stuff
Whats the color code for the paint you used?
34086 olive drab with added enamel hardener
What are you using for front marker lights?
What type of mpg are you getting. Plan on getting one 48k miles so fingered i should pull the trigger
For comparison, remember mine is lifted, 37s, 4.10s, 4spd, and turboed.
Around 14-16.
Not terrible, but not the claimed 25mpg some 6.2 owners claim
@@ExoticCarDIY think with a 5 speed manual and the right gearing and some skinnier tires it could get over 20? I have a 1st gen 4runner and was going to diesel swap it but have found the inside is a little small and grabbing one of these that already has a diesel would be cheaper and more spacious
My M1009 is all stock, with 31" tires, I'm averaging around 21 mpg.
Being stock mine has the original 3.08 ratio axels.
The HD400 Transmission these trucks have are about as heavy-duty as they come, I believe they might have the straight-cut gears and are the same transmission used in many tow trucks from the same era.
The best thing about these trucks, they will burn any diesel based fuel and are simple enough that you'll never need to take it to a Dealership for repair or maintenance (no electronics or software updates 😉).
Where did you find the wheels? Did you say they are 37”?
Military surplus, eBay or Craiglist.
They are 37" humvee wheels and tires
How much did all that restoration cost ? I have the same truck in fair condition but need a full restoration.
Lot of time sweat and blood LOL. I did it all myself, stripped it down to just frame, body and motor. Replaced everything rubber, most of the glass.
I'd still like to get the seats redone and possibly a motor swap but I'm torn.
Part of what makes it a m1009, is the fact that it has an old Diesel with no electronics, but I'd love to daily drive this more, if it had like a Duramax Allison combo, I would use it a lot more
@@ExoticCarDIY why won’t you daily it as it is?
Hey man hope you’re doing good may I know where did you arrange the parts from?
Various places, mostly the original parts came from LMC truck. A lot of the CUCV specific parts came from hillbilly wizard. And everything else is pretty much junkyards and eBay
@@ExoticCarDIY thank you so much for your response really appreciate your time and effort ! Wish you best of luck !
Chevy M1009 CUCV it is good buy for our Philippine armed forces. As long as this is brand new. Then, go ahead, buy it.
How much are these worth now and are they reliable?
They are relatively reliable. Failed are usual minor, leaks, a glow plug... Occasionally something big like an injector pump
Rough 3500, normal rust but clean 7500, no rust 12500, restored 25,000+. I've been offered that, not selling it tho.
@@ExoticCarDIY theres a fully restored one at streetsideclassics for 38k. But they put aftermarket speakers which im not into. But other than that its clean looking.
The Convoy lights and block out drive light are NOT infrared They ARE regular lights just low intensity.. And the plug inside is not a NATO plug it is the diagnostic plug for use with the STE/ICE vehicle test meter
What's the name of that green?
34084 olive drab. I did add some enamel hardener to the paint which gives it a slight sheen and a ton of extra strength
Where can I purchase those "shackels" ??
Ebay used, just search for cucv shackles. Or they are a few cucv parts guys like "hillbilly"
What gear ratio are in the diffs
4.10
@@ExoticCarDIY thanks. The truck is awesome. 👍
@@dieselwrench3621 thanks man
That shit is dope
Ready to sell?
Not yet!
New Mexico State flag baby
Heck ya, loved living there. There's definately no rock crawling out here in Florida lol
One of these running on WVO or used motor oil mixed diesel would outlast humanity
Haha, I like having a "diversified" fleet. EMP proof or cooking oil and I'm still good
What’s a dug score brah?
4 lol
@@ExoticCarDIY
🤷 dug?
@@juansaladzar Doug demuro, cars and bids owner. Is famous for doing reviews and giving a score
@@ExoticCarDIY
oh damn homie so that was a name drop that’s crazy lame to be that guy brah 😞
Do you have a tiktok
Negative
Work on mine next!
Haha, so much has gone on since that last video. I'm still working on mine to this day. I have about six unedited videos, axles lockers new Wheels wiring harness etc etc
Wow some idiot didn't say do a Cummins swap. I would go with a 6v53t.nice ride.
I like the originality of the 62 with the added benefit of the turbo. But I kind of want to make this my daily. I'm a big fan of Duramax, actually kind of thinking a LBZ swap
Sell me that rig. Or where do i find one.
Took me 4 tries to find one when no rust. Good luck, they are getting hard to find and the good ones are expensive now! Ive been offered high 20s already!
Where did you go to find it. Web, or in person? Anyone anywhere? Any info is appreciated.
@@MrSrtman18 I found this one on eBay, honestly, thats usually the last place I look. It's was ugly, but I knew it was rust free and already had the axels I wanted.
Anyway, one of the best resources now is one of the several cucv Facebook groups
Am purdy.
not ifra red, standard light, just very low wattage
Yeah, that information was from a thread on steel soldiers.
Here is a better description:
The small lights, front and back, are called "cats eye" lights and are used by the drivers during blackout conditions (light discipline) to keep vehicles in line during night movements.
The hooded white light in the grill is the "blackout driving light". This light is switched on independently of the "cats eyes" and casts a dim white light on the ground for a short distance to the left front of the vehicle, in front of the driver. This light is so the driver can see the ground guide who is walking in front of the vehicle to guide it.
The development of night vision devices has greatly reduced the need for the blackout lights, especially the blackout driving light. Military vehicles still have the capablity for when night vision devices are not available. The specialized switching prevents the accidental appearance of any lights, including brake lights and turn signals, during periods of light discipline when the appearance of a light would give away the position of vehicles (and troops) to the enemy.
Lol
I love how people put 1ton axels on a half ton frame and call it a 1ton Blazer..dumb..
I love how people make stupid uneducated comments on people's TH-camrs videos.
The m1009 actually rated as a 3/4 ton vehicle, not 1/2.
There is more than frames factors in to the "X-ton class" of trucks. Is the frame different on a Chevy 2500 vs 3500? Nope, exact same frame.
Does this blazer have 1ton axles? Actually no, the came off a 1.5 ton truck... so is this blazer still a 3/4 ton m1009, is 1ton or 1.5ton? I can tell you the most wrong answer is yours, it was never a half ton.
Since no one upgrades frames, the common way to quickly let people know you've done an axles swap is to refer the rating of the new axles.
I guess I could have made the title a paragraph for you: “originally military designated 3/4 ton m1009 that has been upgraded to 1.5 tons axles, yet still retains the original 3/4 frame."