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no, computer will still turn it on and off with the ignition. it will occasionally run a few minutes after turning off with the retained power function

Mine also looked like it could have been a rear main. It wasn't until I removed the support that exposed the two converter/flex plate and saw it was dry that I was sure it was just the pan. Hopefully you're is also just the pan.

So you got the code from an actual failure? I can't tell you what to do, but if it was my car I would verify that the oil pump is working and in normal pressure mode (not reduced pressure) with a mechanical oil pressure gauge ...to make sure you're engine is not in any danger. If all is well, I'd get a dummy solenoid installed extremely to make to code to away. Just search the mbworld thread for info on that dummy solenoid

I took it to MB and they said the tested the harness which was good but the valve was not functioning properly. They want to replace the pump and the valve which would cost 8k$.

The car runs fine. It doesn't over heat and it starts without a problem. It doesn't make sense to spend 8k on the oil pump when the valve and harness is known to be at fault for this code. I figure you starts small and work your way up where MB wants to just replace everything.

Sold it already

Specs in the description

I don't do remote coding, and I can't help anyone find the software

H&r 29028-2 front axle weight 1175kg and my e63 with 4matic weights 1275kg front axle

When you look on h&r's website it says nothing about these being restricted to the rear wheel drive model. Just Google 29028-2 Click on any of the links like ECS tuning or pelican parts click on compatibility they are for all the w212 4matic e63s

On the link to h&r I posted it says only 2wd maybe it’s different rules where I live. Thank you for answering

Ya, I'll try to put a link in the description to the SVG file I made, check back

@@ExoticCarDIY I can't find link, if you can check it please.

I think I have like four videos on this tire machine, I know I explained it in one of them. But basically yeah, paying tire shops 150+ bucks to wait 3 hours just to have them scratch my rims was getting old. It's been a great investment, besides my lift it's my favorite tool.

Interesting comment...both the stock parts and the aftermarket parts are both steel so not sure where you can get aluminum ones. I definitely prefer not to hit any curbs.

Great job!

@@ExoticCarDIY 2nd day driving without the creaking. It’s too quiet! 😂😂

I've done several Tesla tires, including the model S 245/35r21... Works great!

Awesome, I'll let Durango to the description. Glad it went well

The angle spark plug tool really is just to get it into the hole. Once it's in there it's completely straight when I'm tightening it down. Another person in the comments suggested just over tightening them to reach the correct indexing. That was actually what I was first going to try, maybe just fudge the numbers by two or three foot pounds, but once you're actually try that, it's impossible. There is no bolt stretch, as soon as you hit that 23 it's not going to go any further. Even if you cranked it to 80, you might get an extra 2°, far from the 90° you need. And the worst part is, somewhere in the 50 Newton meter area, the spark plug will break off from the threads leaving the threads inside your head. So yeah, I highly advise against ruining your car by trying that

Yeah, finally there's one thing that's a little bit easier on these than other cars lol. Don't worry though I've run a lot of wires to the trunk on my other cars. Just be careful with those interior pieces

@@ExoticCarDIY true, trying to give my buddy a simple jump start on his E class was a hilarious nightmare 😂

Just track the two that go to the switch. What year and model?

@@ExoticCarDIY its a 2019 GMC Acadia. I still did it and it seems to be working so far, the colors at the actual connector are the same just not the ones leading up to it.

Glad it was helpful!

Great suggestion!

Stock overland suspension, quadrilift so it can go up and down. Offered a numerous times with it no rubbing even at full articulation. I had no issues at all this, break still felt great, I think you got to remember, 75% of the Jeeps have the smaller brakes so it's only really a marginal difference. I did end up finally selling the Jeep last month, I still have the brackets and rotors in case I want to use them on my next build

Nice, hopefully you get many more trouble free miles. We've had four acadias, we put a lot of miles on all of them, and really had no issues other than this shift to park on the latest one.

There is a member on the forum who is making them and selling them... I'm not affiliated. But if you were to make your own, they're 30 mm in diameter exactly 15 mm tall, the hole in the center is just big enough for the M12 bolt to slide through. They're made of 304 stainless so they don't flex at all

Thanks buddy!, I'll finally have some new videos come out, I did a bunch of axle work, installed lockers front and rear, redid the whole wiring harness. Just haven't got around to editing anything yet. Running like a champ though

👍👍👍👍👍I will be watching it can’t wait thanks.

I really don't see any benefit unless you're really pushing the max horsepower on an m157. It made little difference on mine, it made little difference on my friends stage 2 e63 In order of your best bang for your buck, Oil solenoid mod Always on heat pump mod Drop in filters TCU tune, ECU tune Downpipes Black boost intake

Different diameter, srt is straight through design, no baffles unlike the limited

Yeah it's frustrating, but luckily there's a fix. If you read through the comments, so far this fix is 100%, nobody is reported any drawbacks either. Arcadia also had the thermostat issue, it sucks that they buried that thing way down in the middle. My wife actually was adamant she wanted to fix it herself, and she did, only minor input from me she was able to replace the thermostat in about 3 hours. Total cost was $110. Around 40 different cars, all different makes. Every single one has its quirks and issues

Does your wife like old fat deaf guys like me? I too have the thermostat/temp switch issue. I just had to have the A/C recharged. I worked for GM for 34 years. I feel GM has abandoned their customers over issues like this. If they would offer some help like they did back in 2008 when I had a heater core issue in my Pontiac, I might feel different. Your wife's a keeper. Thanx again.

Roads are nice down here in Florida. I clean all my cars top and bottom like a weirdo too haha

Probably 50%S 35% s+, 15% M, and 0% C

@@ExoticCarDIY do you have a video explaining why you choose S over S+? I’m taking delivery of mine Friday so I would be interested to see why you or others choose different driving modes. Of course I’ll never use C tho, that’s not even an option lol

@@AlmightyBeezy C is soft, starts in second gear. S feels like how the car should normally feel. S+ holds gears longer, even under moderate acceleration, the shifts are much firmer, even when you hit the break it down shifts. Manual is fun for moderate driving