Lol that seems to be a good idea. The key to the accu-wedge is to not cut or trim the base. Use as is. It will be extremely tight at first but will settle in perfectly. Use on all my builds but if your way works for you, carry on.
what happens when ubheat the rifle up did u run into problems with the glue melting into the rest of the rifle I did your trick and was just wondering if that became an issue
@@user-jb7fy6ju6d yes you absolutely would a person who made this video should take it down! Not to mention how easily hot glue breaks apart. It’s not a strong composition.
Brilliant idea; I would've overcomplicated a solution and never thought of this. Just for everyone's knowledge: more often than not, the "wobble" or "slop" is caused by either the pivot hole and/or takedown hole being out of spec (slightly larger); or, if one has changed out the original pivot and/or takedown pin itself for one that may be slightly smaller in diameter (doesn't take much... usually a difference that's in the thousandths). This is what happened on all three of my Daniel Defenses rifles when I swapped the pins out for Geissele knurled pins (no good reason other than I prefer the texture while manipulating the pins w/gloves on). So a permanent fix if to get the proper [snug] pins in place.
Took me a few tries to make it work for my M16 build but ended with a good result. But instead of tape I added another thin layer to the lower and then put my piece on top of that layer and closed it again and let the new layer merge with the original and that took all of the wiggle out. And I had it bad. Thanks for the idea 👍🏼
I was about to order 2 accu-wedges. I just tried this with a Stag receiver set. It works far better than I thought it would. I didn't push the take down pin through while the glue was setting. I have to compress the glue to get the pin to push through now. Zero slop. Thanks for making this vid. Awesome. 👍
haven't tried your method and it appears to work great, but I still prefer the Accuwedge because it's easily removable. The key is to sand the wedge down, not cut it. I just took a sheet of 80 grit and ran the bottom along a good deal, turn it 90 degrees, rinse and repeat. Now it works like a charm and snug as a bug.
I just tried the hot glue trick. It is also easily removable. Idk if I had some clp acting as mold release, but it peels off without issue and is like having a custom fit accu-wedge.
Genius! Thanks for the tip bro. I’ve used accuwedges in the past and wasn’t a big fan. Gonna give this a whirl on my new Aero build. Very minimal play between the Aero upper and PSA lower
@@TailSpin215 there’s a little wobble but not horrible. It’s worse when I put it on my Anderson lower. I actually just picked up a Aero m4e1 lower on sale to mount it to and I’m picking up another PSA upper to slap on their lower.
I use a cut bicycle inner tube as a shim on the front lug. It's kind of like doing the o-ring trick on the front lug. Now I do like the hot glue trick.
Honestly I was a little worried when I saw that hot glue gun but this seems like a very useful solution and I can’t wait to try it when I get off of work thanks :)
I hate to say this but I sprayed a light film of spam on the upper and dusted the receiver and tha worked liked a champ! TY you you so much, this works like a gem!
This is how I bed recoil lugs on bolt rifles. It's not permanent if you mess up you can peel it out, and it's cheap and has worked great for several years.
Used a car battery post cap i found in the garage. It was rubber material and molded into an oval. Had to do just a tiny bit of shaping and convincing by just smushing it down repeatedly, then it locked into place with zero wobble now.
Clever. I hate a sloppy rifle. Hate Accu-wedges too, but I sold a ton of them in my gun show days. Something I found when I was building ARs regularly was that I could take 20 uppers and lowers, and find a couple that fit too tight, and a couple that were too loose, but by switching and test fitting, could usually end up with twenty combinations that all fit reasonably well. I tried to convince Trey Knight of this after buying a pile of SR-15s and finding some really sloppy guns in the order, but he already knew it all, and didn’t need my advice. 😠 Edited to add that a light film of oil on all the surfaces should eliminate any unwanted sticking when using the hot glue. Emphasis on LIGHT film. You wouldn’t want it to puddle in the receiver.
Perfection! Some hot glue and two pieces of duct tape...zero slop. I'll probably still throw an O-ring over the front lug just for the extra support/balance. Thanx for the excellent diy tip 💯😎🍻
The real perfectionist can get the upper/lower welded, then filed to fit. They will still find 9/10 times theres slop in the pin bosses as well. Doesnt cause any issues really, unless you have bowed magazine feed lips.
It's also spec...for instance...I just built an MK18 with an Aero lower and DDMK18 upper and without the screw it is as tight as can be..absolutly no wobble. So the Daniel Defence uppers and the Aero lowers are on the same tolerance side of error or just dead nuts on
My old M&P Sport 1.0 has that flat spot too. I cut some little squares of Guerrilla tape and found 3 layers was too thick for the new PSA upper. Replaced layer # 3 with thin electrical tape and it was perfect. The numbers engraved in the bottom of the upper's rear block were imprinted on the tape! Not a permanent fix, but I want it tight for bench rest testing. Maybe I'll pull out the tape, measure it and cut a metal shim in a U shape that will stay in place.
Great idea! I don't know if anyone else suggested this, but could you put case lube on the upper receiver to keep it from bonding together, and maybe it would stay bonded inside the lower? This is much better, as I've been told the accuwedge will increase the slop over time because it will put too much pressure on the pivot pin holes.
Brilliant. Although I just 3d printed the accu wedge so tinkering with it wasn't really a issue. If I messed it up I could print another. For less than a penny compared to the 15 bucks or whatever you pay for the accuwedge
This works well though I add a lot more hot glue than that in 2 or 3 different steps to get all the way up to the buffer threads and out to the trigger recess.
My rear takedown pin is very loose slides out when I tilt the gun tried 4 new takedown pins with new spring and detent. Thinking it's the lowers hole a little to big
I notice people saying you don't need to cut the accu wedge. Depending on your upper/lower combination you may absolutely need to cut it. I had to in an M&P15 lower and side charging upper. I hated the thing! I just tried this, we'll see how I like it.
My RRA is a little (very little) loose, but annoying to me, I got an accuwedge years ago(pre youtube!), but it then wouldn't close.. now I've learned sometimes you have to shave them down a bit, and I can't find it, so I ordered 5 more yesterday (I'm planning to build a few more AR's this winter, in various configurations).. and found this video today :) Luckily I only paid $1 each and $4 shipping...
Hey, so I put Loctite Blue(Super Glue). Let it dry before closing your upper and lower. Check with a finger to ensure it's dry. You can put rubbing alcohol on it to dry any possible excess). It hardened like a rock. It doesn't come off easy, at all... After some filing(slowly), got the perfect fit. As I said, it doesn't wiggle at alllllll, and the glue is permanent(you just gotta file the extra, very slowly until you get the perfect fit. Check your cycling and dryfiring to ensure you have no malfunctions).
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Sometimes the simplest things can make your life 100x’s easier. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for watching
Your a friggin genius
Thanks man
Lol that seems to be a good idea. The key to the accu-wedge is to not cut or trim the base. Use as is. It will be extremely tight at first but will settle in perfectly. Use on all my builds but if your way works for you, carry on.
Was about to respond "What is this "cut" you speak of? Accuwedge is squishy rubber; you just squeeze upper & lower together til you can insert pin..."
I like how I machined my parts to fit snugly without one of those unsightly things.
@@dustinmooring698 interested, any pics?
what happens when ubheat the rifle up did u run into problems with the glue melting into the rest of the rifle I did your trick and was just wondering if that became an issue
@@user-jb7fy6ju6d yes you absolutely would a person who made this video should take it down! Not to mention how easily hot glue breaks apart. It’s not a strong composition.
Brilliant idea; I would've overcomplicated a solution and never thought of this. Just for everyone's knowledge: more often than not, the "wobble" or "slop" is caused by either the pivot hole and/or takedown hole being out of spec (slightly larger); or, if one has changed out the original pivot and/or takedown pin itself for one that may be slightly smaller in diameter (doesn't take much... usually a difference that's in the thousandths). This is what happened on all three of my Daniel Defenses rifles when I swapped the pins out for Geissele knurled pins (no good reason other than I prefer the texture while manipulating the pins w/gloves on). So a permanent fix if to get the proper [snug] pins in place.
This is brilliant! Just built my first AR10 and it had a bit of slop. Totally fixed now. Thanks.
Dude, I just did this and subbed for it. You are a legend. It works perfectly. So simple. I will be sharing to all my friends.
Man know that is out of the box thinking .love your video good job
Thanks man!
Took me a few tries to make it work for my M16 build but ended with a good result. But instead of tape I added another thin layer to the lower and then put my piece on top of that layer and closed it again and let the new layer merge with the original and that took all of the wiggle out. And I had it bad. Thanks for the idea 👍🏼
that's exactly what I did and it works great, thanks so much for the advise
Awesome idea! Thanks for sharing it with us!
I was about to order 2 accu-wedges. I just tried this with a Stag receiver set. It works far better than I thought it would. I didn't push the take down pin through while the glue was setting. I have to compress the glue to get the pin to push through now. Zero slop. Thanks for making this vid. Awesome. 👍
Glad it worked out for you man, thanks for watching.
You can just a foam ear plug in there like the rest of the country
Awesome video, just did my AR10 and 15. No more slop!
Wow that's very helpful! Thanks for this cheap trick
Worked great! Took out 90% of the slop.
Glad it worked out for you, you can always add another piece of tape or “shim” for a better fit
Same for me, took out about 90% of the play..
@@wyominghighdesertprecision hey have you had to redo this or anything since you did this.. or is it still holding up.
Still good to go.
About 90% is what I wanted. In case I'm outside on a really cold day and want to remove the BCG and drop in the .22lr adapter. While without tools..
haven't tried your method and it appears to work great, but I still prefer the Accuwedge because it's easily removable. The key is to sand the wedge down, not cut it. I just took a sheet of 80 grit and ran the bottom along a good deal, turn it 90 degrees, rinse and repeat. Now it works like a charm and snug as a bug.
I just tried the hot glue trick. It is also easily removable. Idk if I had some clp acting as mold release, but it peels off without issue and is like having a custom fit accu-wedge.
Amazing. Thank you so much. The perfect fix I was looking for.
Good idea!! Simple is ALWAYS best!!
How does it work in the summer time in temps of over 95?
Thank you for this. Brilliant
Thanks for the Video. This is a really good trick to eliminate the wobble. I'll try that on my Schmeisser. Greetings from Germany
Genius! Thanks for the tip bro. I’ve used accuwedges in the past and wasn’t a big fan. Gonna give this a whirl on my new Aero build. Very minimal play between the Aero upper and PSA lower
Thanks for watching, let me know how it turns out for you
Aero has a nylon screw next to the grip screw. It's specifically for tightening the upper and lower fitment
@@tommcfarland5368 I know but I put a aero upper on a PSA lower.
I'm thinking about doing a similar aero upper and palmetto lower 300 blackout build. You said yours didn't have to much wobble to begin with?
@@TailSpin215 there’s a little wobble but not horrible. It’s worse when I put it on my Anderson lower. I actually just picked up a Aero m4e1 lower on sale to mount it to and I’m picking up another PSA upper to slap on their lower.
Just tried this out today on my rifle and it works great. The tape on the bottom was essential to a proper fit. Thank you for this suggestion OP!
Can't wait to try this!👍 Thanks!
This is pretty ingenious!
That's a damned good idea brother!
Thanks man!
Just tried it. Works. Thanks for the tip.
For ages, I’ve used a simple cork from a wine bottle…cut to size of course…this is clever tho, similar to rifle bedding.
Er,...oh wow! Thanks. Mold a perfect part, what a concept!!!
Excellent! Thank you!
Awesome solution! Thanks
Yeah man....gotta say this is the best method ive seeen so far.
Wow so simple….. thanks
This trick is amazing! The slight wiggle was driving me crazy
Very Smart! Thanks for sharing
I use a cut bicycle inner tube as a shim on the front lug. It's kind of like doing the o-ring trick on the front lug. Now I do like the hot glue trick.
Honestly I was a little worried when I saw that hot glue gun but this seems like a very useful solution and I can’t wait to try it when I get off of work thanks :)
I hate to say this but I sprayed a light film of spam on the upper and dusted the receiver and tha worked liked a champ! TY you you so much, this works like a gem!
Great idea! Good video.
lol thats so simple, you just made my day.
Excellent! Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Wow...thats was simple! Thanks!
This needs to win a GUNDY. Excellent
Beautiful, like glass bedding a barrel
Great tip for a custom fit!
Good idea man!
Thanks
Bad ass tip bro thanks.
This is how I bed recoil lugs on bolt rifles. It's not permanent if you mess up you can peel it out, and it's cheap and has worked great for several years.
Used a car battery post cap i found in the garage. It was rubber material and molded into an oval. Had to do just a tiny bit of shaping and convincing by just smushing it down repeatedly, then it locked into place with zero wobble now.
Genius, this is what i needed
clever idea. Thanks. I've been using a foam ear plug and that works great too. just drop one down and close and pin it.
works great!!! i save money,,thanks man..
Glad it worked out for you.
Clever. I hate a sloppy rifle. Hate Accu-wedges too, but I sold a ton of them in my gun show days.
Something I found when I was building ARs regularly was that I could take 20 uppers and lowers, and find a couple that fit too tight, and a couple that were too loose, but by switching and test fitting, could usually end up with twenty combinations that all fit reasonably well. I tried to convince Trey Knight of this after buying a pile of SR-15s and finding some really sloppy guns in the order, but he already knew it all, and didn’t need my advice. 😠
Edited to add that a light film of oil on all the surfaces should eliminate any unwanted sticking when using the hot glue. Emphasis on LIGHT film. You wouldn’t want it to puddle in the receiver.
Brilliant
Nice info brotha!
EXCELLENT QUICK FIX
Perfection! Some hot glue and two pieces of duct tape...zero slop. I'll probably still throw an O-ring over the front lug just for the extra support/balance. Thanx for the excellent diy tip 💯😎🍻
I love that tip I'm going to have to make a few just to keep on hand thank you very much for that
Thank you!
Your welcome!
Beautiful
I just buy AERO Precision lowers that have an adjustable tension screw
The real perfectionist can get the upper/lower welded, then filed to fit. They will still find 9/10 times theres slop in the pin bosses as well. Doesnt cause any issues really, unless you have bowed magazine feed lips.
It's also spec...for instance...I just built an MK18 with an Aero lower and DDMK18 upper and without the screw it is as tight as can be..absolutly no wobble.
So the Daniel Defence uppers and the Aero lowers are on the same tolerance side of error or just dead nuts on
what an absolute great idea
Pretty slick!
Slick idea
That was cool.
Awesome bud thanks
I'll give this a try .
Let me know how it turns out, thanks for watching
Great video thanks! 😅
👍
Can also use a small rubber o-ring around the front lug, that works too without needing to use glue
My old M&P Sport 1.0 has that flat spot too. I cut some little squares of Guerrilla tape and found 3 layers was too thick for the new PSA upper. Replaced layer # 3 with thin electrical tape and it was perfect.
The numbers engraved in the bottom of the upper's rear block were imprinted on the tape!
Not a permanent fix, but I want it tight for bench rest testing.
Maybe I'll pull out the tape, measure it and cut a metal shim in a U shape that will stay in place.
Great idea! I don't know if anyone else suggested this, but could you put case lube on the upper receiver to keep it from bonding together, and maybe it would stay bonded inside the lower? This is much better, as I've been told the accuwedge will increase the slop over time because it will put too much pressure on the pivot pin holes.
thanks, i think i'll try jb weld just to make sure it's very easy for me to separate one it dries.
Holy shit! WOW!
fkn brilliant man... do lang bang next
awesome tip! never thought of this, so K.I.S.S.
Brilliant. Although I just 3d printed the accu wedge so tinkering with it wasn't really a issue. If I messed it up I could print another. For less than a penny compared to the 15 bucks or whatever you pay for the accuwedge
Innovative nice!
Foam tape works great as well
clever !!
neat trick, I was using an "o" ring
Dude that's cool
Nice!
Small sliver of a rubber band at the pinch of the upper and lower in front of the mag well.
Dam.thsts works better I ever thing good deal brother it's looks great man a ear plug oring both work to
This works well though I add a lot more hot glue than that in 2 or 3 different steps to get all the way up to the buffer threads and out to the trigger recess.
Genius
Gunsmith way is the U shape AR15AccuShim
.5 oring on luge works great to
this is fucking genius, im so tired of replacing o-rings lol
Nice job. Just back from the store with my glue gun. Works perfect. Thanks!
Genius!
Genious !!
My rear takedown pin is very loose slides out when I tilt the gun tried 4 new takedown pins with new spring and detent. Thinking it's the lowers hole a little to big
Now that it cool
Niccee
woooooah!!! super hack!!
Try a oring around the front upper pin works just as good and less complicated
i did a 8mm o ring over the front pivot lug problem solved
I notice people saying you don't need to cut the accu wedge. Depending on your upper/lower combination you may absolutely need to cut it. I had to in an M&P15 lower and side charging upper. I hated the thing! I just tried this, we'll see how I like it.
Hope it works out for you, thanks for watching
My RRA is a little (very little) loose, but annoying to me, I got an accuwedge years ago(pre youtube!), but it then wouldn't close.. now I've learned sometimes you have to shave them down a bit, and I can't find it, so I ordered 5 more yesterday (I'm planning to build a few more AR's this winter, in various configurations).. and found this video today :) Luckily I only paid $1 each and $4 shipping...
It worked but it took like an hour😂 then again nothing comes easy for me, I don’t know how you got it to come out so perfect.
I can't believe that actually worked
Hey, so I put Loctite Blue(Super Glue). Let it dry before closing your upper and lower. Check with a finger to ensure it's dry. You can put rubbing alcohol on it to dry any possible excess). It hardened like a rock. It doesn't come off easy, at all... After some filing(slowly), got the perfect fit. As I said, it doesn't wiggle at alllllll, and the glue is permanent(you just gotta file the extra, very slowly until you get the perfect fit. Check your cycling and dryfiring to ensure you have no malfunctions).