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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ก.ค. 2024
- One of the most overlooked parts when adding horsepower and torque is making sure your clutch can handle the power. Your twin cam clutch can handle quite a bit of power with just a heavy duty clutch spring, but it can be better. You'll waste every penny you put into upgrading your motorcycle if you can't get that power to the rear wheel due to a slipping clutch. A slipping clutch will cause major power losses and when if finally gives out you'll be sidelined with your bike down for repairs. We'll look at the the most inexpensive options to more the more radical adjustable replacements to help you make sure you get all of your power where it belongs!
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What is your favorite clutch setup, which one would you run on your bike?
My sporty i have an Energy One extra plate clutch with 15 percent heavy spring. My M8.. I'm thinking of going with the Barnett 🦂. American Prime is on my radar.
Barnett makes some awesome products, you can't go wrong with an upgrade from them.
This was a discussion we had last week thanks for the great info
@@bradballard2068 sportsman bandit is a good choice as well.
@@GixxerFoo Barnett clutch packs in all of my bikes. Never have problems and longevity is awsome.
I’ve done it all man. Started with the SE diaphragm spring. That sucked. I live in NY so traffic is an absolute killer.
Then I did the rekluse but I did the auto clutch. Held my 112 tq 105 hp well but burnt out from a dyno tune. Also friction welded my throwout bearing, oil slinger and pushrod together from the constant pressure. 10000 miles.
Now I have a Barnett scorpion basket, hub and clutch pack. Best one by faaaaaarrr
Oh dang yeah you've got some serious duty on the clutch being in the traffic up there. I'd imagine that clutch spring was awful with the increased lever effort in traffic. Sounds like you went back with the goods to make it last though!
Energy One Extry Plate on 120 squared for 50,000 miles. It has served me well and in addition the gent provides stellar customer service.
So.... I think I should share a bit.
The final setup on my 103 Dyna is a S&S 583 cams, Arlen Ness stage 2 air filter and a VH 2in1 Pro Pipe. Runs excellent! Night and day difference. BUT...
With everything done to it I considered that a Barnett Extra plate and Heavy Duty spring is what I need to handle that power. In addition to this I got a Mueller Power Clutch to ease the pull in this extreme traffic. Still, my clutch was heavy on the hand. Not at all comfortable on the hand. Much heavier than stock.
I also got an EZ pull system. Now, yes! the feel is exactly how it should be. But now appears another problem. Very hard to find Neutral given that the ramp of the Mueller is smaller and also the EZ pull reduces the total pull distance on the spring.
Now my bike is extremely oil pretentious. Too low oil, the clutch drags and I also risk burning it. Too much oil, the bike drags, as you have a proeminent Tesla Turbine effect. Took me about 2 weeks to adjust it perfectly (for an acceptable result). But, of course, I forgot to tighten the primary oil plug at the correct spec. After 5k miles it loosened and lost a bit of oil. Not I have to readjust everything again...
So, if possible, don't combine easy clutch systems. It may be easy on the hand, but finding neutral will be "a drag".
On my 96 twin cam upgrade I included the Screaming Eagle set of clutch plates including the heavy duty spring. The result is very positive. A real smooth clutch with the friction zone pronounced and easy to handle. Not a great deal of additional force needed although the extra effort does add to the positive feel. A solid upgrade thanks!
Very welcome that is awesome to hear! A good clutch really changes the dynamic of the bike!
I have built several 100hp 100 TQ Twinkie engines.
Every time I have used Alto Clutch plates and a S.E. Spring with ATF Fluid in the Primary , with very good results.
Supper cheap clutch setup that works great .
Great tip! I really like hearing about proven setups like that, it makes sense to me!
TC88 converted to 107 120 hp 124 tq. Nothing crazy but I did burn through a Barnett clutch in a couple months. Two dyno tunes and riding style may have had something to do with it.
FYI You cannot run the Rekluse in an aftermarket basket. Ask me how I know. Still have it.
Rekluse said the tolerances are too tight on aftermarket baskets and the plates hang up causing difficulty if not impossible shifting and forget about neutral.
They told me they were developing their own baskets to work with their clutch packs. (This was in 2020)
They supposedly work with the stock basket but I never tried it since my basket was swapped already and I wasn't going backwards.
Ended up going with Evolution Basket, Alto Carbonite clutch pack, upped spring pressure to 340# and added the Variable pressure VP84 unit from AIM.
The guy at ALTO is the best.
LittleO
I thoroughly enjoy my Harley Davidsons, I read the Enthusiast (formally HOG) magazine, have H-D books, watch videos... The information you give is the icing on the cake. I can't imagine where you find this information but I sure appreciated your content. Keep up the good work.
Thank you! I am the same way, I get HOG too and I am just pretty much ate up with Harley. You can't beat that feel and ride of a Harley-Davidson!
The best option hands down is the clutchwiz. Unfortunately the guy retired and stopped making them but its way better than a VPC. You can run the heaviest spring on the market and itll bring the clutch pull down less than stock. The VPC just allows you to run a lighter diaphragm spring without slip, but it doesnt start working until 3.5k+ rpms. And its noisy. Ive got a 124" in my fxdx and get no slip with the clutchwiz. If you can find one, get it. They randomly pop up for sale. VPC still works but it has flaws for sure.
EnergyOne clutch pack is the best bang for the buck. It retains stock basket and have worked better than Barnett in most bikes I've put them in... They also offer extra plate and heavy spring options as well.
One thing to note with the variable/lock-up clutch plates, you do add a lot more shock to the transmission gears which can cause stress fractures and chipped gears ( especially with the 06+ 6speed trans). A little slippage is a safety cushion for your trans.
Oh, and another thing I found with the lock-up pressure plates is to watch for clearance with the old-style derby gaskets; had a bike come in with one that the shrapnel from the gasket went through the primary and took out the stator.
That's a good point, even though it say bolt on it's always good to check clearances! Thank you for sharing the info!
Baker DD7
FLHX 2007 (with S&S: 551 cams & oil pump)
Very impressed with my fuel moto/aim clutch. Very easy to pull lever in, no more neutral to first gear clunk, no slipping. Very smooth and quiet. 128 hp 130 tq
Those things are awesome and they aren't stupid expensive! That's an awesome upgrade and they have no problem holding up to the kind of power you're laying down.
I have a 2007 Electra Glide Ultra Classic with a stage 4 106 kit in my bike and I put a Barnett’ clutch plate system in mine. Very happy with the results. No slipping at all for than 5 years since I had my engine rebuilt done
That's awesome! What kinda power is that bike putting down with that kit in it?
You always got the scoop on the goods man, that's why you always see me here, as always very informative, thanks again 💯👍🏼
I appreciate it, glad I can help everyone out there out with some decision making!
@@GixxerFoo you always do man 👍🏼
I got a high pony motor and my clutch is GONE!! I'm going to seriously upgrade..thanks for info..
+1 on the Rekluse Torque Drive kit especially since they include sleeves to reinforce the clutch basket. Be careful and check your clearances if you plan to use a variable pressure clutch.
That Rekluse is expensive but really worth the money, even though it says bolt on you still want to check!
American Prime Manufacturing clutch with an Evolution Industies billet basket. Handles over 200hp/torque. Hands down the best clutch I've ever had
Good reminder for us who make our motors more powerful. I saw your vid on converting a sportster to chain drive; maybe you can talk sometime about when it makes sense to convert a TC88/TC96 etc. to chain drive when building power?
That's a good idea, especially on a big twin! Big twin can really produces an insane amount of torque. It's not uncommon for a high torque big twin to tear up a belt if you ride them hard.
Solid videos man!!
Blew my grenade plate on my sportster, replaced the plates, disks and 25% spring with a kit from Energy One. Perfect, could not ask for better. After I did the motor over with a Hammer kit, the clutch from Energy One held up great, smooth, quiet and NO SLIPPING AT ALL!
That's awesome! I am not necessarily completely impressed with the stock clutch my Sportster either, I may have to look into the energy one for the Sporty.
I use the energy one too with my 1275 👌🏼
Those are really nice and priced well, l need to get one in my bike.
This is a great episode for me since I'm considering putting a sidecar on a bike
At 14k miles with a Stage 1 96 ci Twin Cam my clutch is slipping bad when I pull hard from a stop. I've got a 110 ci kit, Screamin Eagle heads, S&S cams, a FuelPak 4, and a compensator eliminator sitting on the shelf. I'm going to do a coil spring conversion (3 medium and 3 heavy springs) with an extra plate kevlar friction kit, all from Barnett. That should get 'er done.
I have a 2017 Lowrider S with a 117ci upgrade along with a lot of goodies. I went with the Bandit Sportsman Superclutch and couldn't happier!
Very nice! That's very nice upgrade to go with your 117, did you go with the Screamin Eagle kit?
@@GixxerFoo yes it's the SE 117ci bolt on kit for the 110ci motor. It's got S&S lifters, cam plate, crank, and oil pump, 10.5:1 compression, stage 1 heads, Bandit Sportsman Superclutch, Ultracool Oil Cooler, Bassani Road Rage II Mega Power exhaust, and then Dyno tuned using Dynojet Powervision. 134/147 was the numbers.
Another great video with info I can actually use! Thanks bro!
Not a problem, I am glad it was helpful for you !
How are they on slow turn manuver? The friction zone
I have a Trask Billet aluminum clutch basket and a drag specialties hub, Barnett kevlar disc set, Barnett heavy spring, and fuel moto aim variable clutch. This is all on my 2012 flhx with the se120r engine. Lever pull is pretty heavy but I have ZERO slippage. I may have done a little more than necessary but I'm one of those, its easier to do it now while its apart instead of waiting till something fails kind of guy.
Love your channel
i run type F in my primary. it was an immediately obvious upgrade. 07 Ultra 96”
no man you were'nt boring at all, i found it very informative . Thanks
I appreciate that! These videos aren't nearly as exciting as looking at the hop up parts and the charts over the baselines, still important parts though. I appreciate the support on the channel!
@@GixxerFoo Wats up man ,how you doin,sending best wishes for you and family,stay safe out there. I am very pleased you replied to me, thanks. I was given a 93 Ultra Classic,engine not running(1340), troubleshooting I found a broken push rod on the back cylinder exhaust side. It is evident it was worked on,the pushrods and rocker arms are RevTech, i haven't gotten to the cam yet but Id like to install one,,,what cam or cam assy would you suggest for the 1340 EVO.
Welcome to the channel, we appreciate the support! Evo's are one of my favorite motors, best part is they are totally rebuildable. I mlm would check into the cams from Wood. I haven't done a video on Evo cams yet, but Wood for the Evo is hard to beat.
@@GixxerFoo Copy that, thanks man Ill check out Wood cams
Not a problem, Wood is pretty impressive when you get to comparing.
Thank you for the video, I really enjoy your Channel 👍
Thanks for watching!
The stock clutch slips just a little by design. That was the first upgrade I made to mine. Evolution Industries billet basket and American Prime Manufacturing clutch. NO SLIP.
Billet baskets with some new plates are a excellent setup, no one really puts a lot of thought into the clutch until there is an issue!
Great Info! I put an Energy One clutch in my '06 Sportster at 20K miles and loved it. Now I have an '07 Dyna that currently has a Bassani Road Rage SS exhaust, an S&S air cleaner and an FP3 tuner, and now I want to install a compensator and clutch. Happy to see positive replies about the Energy One clutch. Now I know how I will quarantine.
It looking like we are all gonna have plenty of quarantine time to get some work done on our bikes! I am really sold on that Energy One clutch myself, it's priced right and it's a high quality unit too! How are you liking your FP3? That's what I run myself on my bikes.
@@GixxerFoo The FP3 is a powerful tool and I love it. I recommend educating yourself before diving too deep into it.
FYI the paperwork that comes with the Energy One clutch says: DO NOT use synthetic oil in the primary.
The FP3 really is a lot more capable than what it gets credit for!
That's interesting, especially with all these manufacturers saying it's certified for use in the primary. I run synthetic oil the primary but l have always been skeptical of it.
I have a 2011 ultra limited and I purchased the rekluse automatic clutch RMS-6201 I have not installed it as yet and I’m thinking of putting the woods 555 cam in my bike do you know about this clutch and if so can you talk about it in your future video
Based on your videos; installed cams, plate, oil pump, VPC and probably need to hear what you know about engine/oil cooling. Keep rockin.
Been watching these videos as well and planning to do the same to my 05 wide glide. What do you have and which of his suggestions did you end up going with?
@@ITstallion23
I have a 2015 Road King. I Went with the Woods TW222 cams, Fueling cam plate, oil pump, lifters, and SandS pushrods even though the Woods 222 is a plug and play replacement. Love the performance increase so far with just VandH FP3 tuner. Will eventually get a Dyno.
great video as always !!
Thank you, I appreciate it!
I went with the heavy spring that came with the tire shredder kit. It only slips when I give it the beans and dump the clutch.
Nice! That's a massive amount of torque hitting that clutch, it's pretty impressive the stock clutch can handle the shredder kit.
great info. thank you. 👌🏾👌🏾
I installed a barnett heavy duty clutch spring and it does engage much better with only a little more effort. I just replaced the stock clutch cover with an arlen ness and that seemed to improve it to.
It's crazy how little things like that can make such a big difference, the Barnett clutch springs are really good at not increasing lever effort. The SE clutch spring makes the levers really hard to pull, they get the job done but that lever pull gets old.
I run 9s on my 88 inch Sportster with a box stock clutch.
Good info!
I have a stage1 on my 2012Ultra and was thinking about upgrading my clutch with Harleys variable pressure clutch kit...
I know I'm late but awesome video an great information
I went with a recluse auto clutch, screaming eagle spring, and use Type F fluid . Excellent results!!
Those auto clutches are awesome, you can beef up the clutch without the increased lever effort.
How are they on slow turn manuver? The friction zone
@@bigdaddysshop8180 you have to keep the rpms up past 1000 to keep it moving
Another system Harley gets the bugs worked out of, then foolishly tries a totally new design!
The Rivera Pro-Clutch is a good unit, but I dislike flat springs. I like the Barnett Scorpion I used in my 93" S&S/STD stroker. Noisy as hell in an open application though. Uses coil springs so you can mix springs to your needs. Both run close to $500.
Thanks for the vid.
No problem! Thank you for taking the time to check it out!
I'm adding energy one btx-14 and I found an aim vpc on sale. Gonna put these in my 06 ultra that's getting built up to a 107.
I went with BDL extra plate for my twin cam💪💪💪💪💪
That's a excellent move with adding some power!
Im surprised you didn't mention the Barnett scorpion clutch kit
That's a solid kit! It's actually a bit more cost effective and just as good if not better than the competition.
Energy One extra plate clutch kit seems to work for my 130bhp 122 ftlbs monster..... it has a larger friction area AND a stronger spring, and at a fraction of the price of any Screamin' Eagle kit it is the best value for money.
I have fitted a hydraulic operating system with parts from a CVO Fatbob but it doesn't make it lighter to use - no hydraulic operation mechanism does !
Fitting an extra strong clutch spring can place more strain on the clutch hub bearing and you should always remember that heavy use and abuse will threaten the integrity of the stock basket and if that lets go then you may trash the entire primary, cases and all !......
That's some great information on those clutch springs, I have heard a lot of good things about the Energy One clutch! I've used them on my race bikes in the past and had some really good luck with them too!
Agreed. Energy one kevlar plates and either of the Energy One springs.
This video is excellent timing. I am having a problem the motorcycle will not move in neutral with the engine switched off. I have a 2003 100 year anniversary ultra classic screamin eagle stage 4 103 1450 cc. I have no idea if the clutch is original. Do you have any idea why it will not move in neutral engine off? and I am thinking of changing clutch assembly. This is why I am watching your video.
If you get the Barnett extra plate kit from stock plates will you notice more power?
Just so you know with the heavy duty spring and a hydraulic clutch the pull is super heavy!!!!! 2014 streetglide
Yeah the heavy duty spring does really increase the clutch effort, it's the cheapest option but that is the trade off is lever effort.
Hey there was wondering what you think about rec 90 fuel non ethanol gas for my 2016 breakout instead of 93 ethanol gas thanks
I'm in full agreement with a heavy duty clutch spring on bagger's ! On light bikes really no need I just installed a S & S 124 10.8 compression motor in a 02 Dyna bike it has 1500 miles now & owner runs it hard no clutch slippage ! Most of the time I find customers with slipping clutch it is adjusted wrong !
I'd say you need some heavy clutch work wit htat S&S 124, that's one hell of a motor!
@@GixxerFoo my customer thought it needed a heavy clutch spring also ! I told him I would buy him one & install it if his clutch slips & it doesn't ! Like I said before most clutch slippage happens because it is out of adjustment or some bad riding habits ! Their is a couple of things you can try before installing a heavy spring only use a quart of oil in primary & only go a half turn on clutch nut ! The 98 to present clutch is excellent ! I know what your going to say most bikes the factory calls for more oil in primary ! But I been doing this 1 qt for a long time it is plenty of lubrication ! The half turn on clutch nut makes the lever release by only with about half of the pull perfect for racing !
Lol l don't always agree with what the factory call for. It's a slinger system basically so as long as the basket is catching the oil you're good.
Great video, I have a Alto clutch plate kit from Fuel Moto for my 2016 Street Glide...is there a difference in kits between hydraulic and cable? Do you have a install video?
i went with the AIM VP-SDR ST. this was for my 2018 131 softail. no difference in leverage feel. love it.
That's fricking awesome! I bet that 131 flys in your softail, how are you liking it so far?
@@GixxerFoo so far it is awesome. i put 600 miles on it and then took it in for a dyno tune. they used power vision. i got 140 hp and 143 torque. i am please. i know you can use other third party stuff but i have faith in Harley SE and int continues my extended warranty. exhaust was real important. i went with S&S 2 into 1 super street race pipe. and then it was not breathing good so they went ahead and swapped out the stock 114 air cleaner to the SE Extreme AC. that made all the difference. and like you said in your video if you dont have the clutch right all is in vain. absolutely important. i saw one done in south florida and they did not do the clutch initially and when they got it on the dyno it showed the slipping. so you were right on with this video. and i do love it. i am very conservative lol. i am an old guy but decided to do it. my stocks were doing real good lol. take care and keep up the great videos.i live in florida so hitting the road in a few.
That's some very impressive power! Especially with still being under a warranty. It's hard to beat those numbers and still have a wrranty!
@@GixxerFoo i agree. only reason i went with SE was the warranty with my extended. enjoying your video's man
Harley is pretty good about their warranty if you follow what they asked. They have really taken care of me with my bikes.
2008 rocker c with 17k on it i put in. barnett extra kev plates / barnett lock up clutch / hayden tension .../screaming eagle comp.is in it. but i will replace with a man o war. when can afford as everything twice the price in shit hole nz down here . i took some of your advise doing this before a cam
Nice vid, Exactly where I'm at, Ultama 113" @ 120hp, 6 speed, primo rivera is a 37 tooth sprocket from 36 then 24 compensating from 25. Getting ready to test. I'll let you know.
That's one hell of a motor, that will be a lot of fun to ride! Let me know me how what you find in your testing!
My 103 RK has 108 hp 116 TQ. Stock clutch with SE spring was slipping.
just put a Barnett Kevlar x plate kit
And reused SE heavy duty spring. Could not be happier. No more clunk.
PS don’t go with the Barnett heavy duty diaphragm spring unless you’re racing. It’s a total bear to pull.
Dang that bad on the lever? That's awesome it eliminated the clunk too, that's always a big talking point on Harleys.
@@GixxerFoo
Yes I had the Barnett heavy duty in for about 100 miles. It’s about 50% harder to pull than the Screaming eagle
😬 that would you out pretty quick especially riding in the city!
What cams are you running just curious
@@jimmyflowers6597
Andrews 57h bumped the comp to 10.2 :1 & the heads have zippers mild cnc street port done
With the fuel moto variable pressure clutch I see they recommend non synthetic primary fluid. I normally run amsoil which is synthetic have you noticed any difference with the fuel moto using synthetic or non synthetic
At 7:40, you show a still image of a variable pressure clutch and it's derby gasket. How far do the weights protrude when in full engagement? You can see they made contact with the Derby cover gasket.
My dad has a 08 dyna with the ring gasket, and his weights chewed into his last gasket.
I have an 05 dyna with the solid gasket as you shown. I'd imagine it's not that big of a deal when/if it hits that gasket, considering it's thin aluminum.
Thoughts?
We have an '05 Dyna Wide Glide with about 25,000 mls on it and this past summer I installed the Harley-Davidson reduced effort clutch kit (stock engine except for V&H Bigshot exhaust). I also used the lighter spring that comes with the kit and changed the primary fluid to Lucas synthetic 20W 50 oil which is supposed to be OK to use in all three holes. I noticed the clutch slipping a little on gear up changes when getting into the throttle hard but I really like the light clutch lever feel so I'll probably leave it like it is for now, I'm going to look into a possible friction additive that I can pour in if there's such a thing. The plan this coming income tax season is to buy the S&S power package which bumps it up to 100 ci complete with cams, cam plate, push rods etc. If we can swing it I'll probably go with the Recluse clutch setup and possibly upgrade the clutch plates at least that's the initial plan, like always, I'll cross that bridge when the time comes near because I always like to do diligent research first and probably talk to a couple shops before I make any moves.
Doing some serious research before you start making purchases is the most important thing ever! I see too many people go buy a bunch of parts and get the wrong combo or decide to upgrade a gain later and find out the cam they bought won't support the higher compression. Sounds like you've got a really good plan laid out for you build! The motorcycle oil in the transmission and the primary is supposed to meet the requirements of the engine, transmission and primary. I've been running Amsoil 20W50 in all three on mine and haven't had any issue. Harley-Davidson i believe does the same thing from the factory on the CVO's these days too.
@@GixxerFoo That's interesting that Harley uses the same oil in all three holes on the CVO's, didn't know that. Yeah from what I've read in recent months most people like Amsoil the best but it's expensive. The reason that I use Lucas is for one, that's what our main Harley mechanic here in Owensboro told me to use and two, we can get it locally here at Rural King. It's still not exactly cheap but for Lucas synthetic it's about the cheapest I've seen anywhere. I also started using HiFlo oil filters this past summer, that's one that Kevin Baxter of Pro Twin Performance recommends. According to their research it's one of the best performing oil filters out there. Check him out on TH-cam, he knows his stuff. As far as Lucas synthetic 20W 50 oil in the transmission goes I'm not sure that I'm going to continue running it or at least as is. The transmissions pre 2006 are kinda loud and clanky and sometimes are hard to find neutral, I was hoping that switching to Lucas would help that but it hasn't. There's an oil stabilizer that can be mixed with it and I think it thickens the oil which might help quiet the trans some but I'm going to research that more also, I've heard of thicker oils that might be better in this one (I'm used to the '06 Dyna Wide Glide I had back in '08 with the 6 spd, much smoother and less clanky). I'll most likely go with a mild cam as long as it's compatible with the compression because I don't usually ride in the upper rpm range except for an occasional spirited run from time to time for a short distance, it's mainly windy country roads around here. But the slight clutch slippage changing gears when I'm getting on the throttle hard is kind of a bummer, I'm not sure if that's just normal for a heavier bike with 25,000 miles on it or if whomever owned it before me hotrodded the heck out of it and wore the clutch plates prematurely or if it's just something that happens sometimes because it's such a light spring, it's just another head scratcher, lol. At the least I'll probably upgrade the clutch plates, maybe go with the extra plate kit, but like I said earlier I'll get advice from others with experience first." It ain't nothin but a thang" as they say around here, just things that we all come across when we like to tinker....👍
There's nothing wrong with Lucas, l've used quite a bit of their products too. Amsoil is expensive and difficult to get unless you order, l usually have to order Lucas too. Anything that's not exactly mainstream is hard to find in stores.
So how do you know when your clutch is going?
I just assumed it stopped shifting or something
Thanks for the video. Guess I need to put some thought into the clutch in my Dyna after I put the aftermarket cams in.
Not a problem at all! It's something to think about especially if you're starting to notice some slipping. A good aftermarket cam really puts down some serious power, what year is your Dyna?
@@GixxerFoo 2003
That cam will really wake that 88 up, they produce a lot of torque with the aftermarket cams. Screamin Eagle cams do alright but not nearly as good as the aftermarket.
Only ever known a 68 generator shovelhead, guess these 117 motors must be a world away.
Those were the good old days, just some easy basic maintenance and that's all you gotta do!
I'll tell you there's something to be said for those old classic bikes!! My buddy just put a 76 FLH back on the road what a beauty man and he's got a 2008 and he hardly rides that anymore so there you go.
Getting a Screaming Eagle clutch installed in my '05 Road King Custom. 68 hp/87 ft. lbs. right now. Gonna go through the whole motor in the future; looking to have it put out 85plus/112plus ft. lbs. when I'm done. No "rocket ship," but she'll run much better (faster), and still be (quite) reliable. 6-Speed setup's gonna be part of the program also. The HD shop is installing a "clutch assist" on it, so the stiffer spring won't be an issue when yanking on the clutch lever.
You've got a nice plan in place with some very reliable upgrades. Good idea on installing that the variable pressure clutch! That's gonna make a world of difference!
@@GixxerFoo I was wanting to install a "softer" Belleville spring, something I believe I saw in a HD catalog, 2006 version--the tech where I'm having it put in told me that the assist device will work better, and I won't lose any clamping force--something I don't want to happen; I thought the different spring would suffice--I'm no "expert," but I DO have some mechanical ability/intelligence. Rundown on what's going to happen at a later date--I'm still not sure, but I'm leaning toward 10.5:1 (0.010 over) pistons, milled so that my compression ratio is a solid 10:1, aftermarket cams, (S&S has a nice grind for maximum bottom end/mid range) new roller lifters, better pushrods, roller rocker arms, better springs (slightly stiffer, with titanium retainers, if available) pocket ported heads, again, to increase bottom end torque--torque tubes in a Vance&Hines Pro Pipe, and the aforementioned 6-speed conversion. My hp/tq goals should be (easily) attainable, don't you think? My riding partner has a '17 Road King, and chided me about my bike being able to "keep up" with him. I'll meet that "challenge," I believe. Now, to just get my driver's license "issues" resolved! See WHY the better than stock clutch is going in? LOL
OOPS! Forgot to mention the intake & carb upgrade--I was considering a Pegasus EFI system, for riding at "elevation," but that would be a rare occurrence. Talked to a former coworker who goes out West to ride, every year--he just takes a run at the inclines out there, and has dealt with the situation. Really can't justify the added expense, after hearing him. I'll get out there once, maybe twice---if at all. lol
I think you'll exceed your horsepower goals pretty handily with what you've got planned. I really like those clutches since the provide more clamping force as the rpms rise without increasing your lever pull effort.
Are considering a conversion from a carb?
I am running a fuelmoto 107 outlaw kit which makes 130 tq. I am using fm aim variable pressure plate and stock plates. I also shimmed my se comp for better lock up.
Nice 👍 Those guys at FuelMoto know their stuff, they can really put together a hell of a engine package! How's your kit been so far?
@@GixxerFoo it's been pretty impressive for a small engine . 125hp/130tq power starts at 3k till 6k. 40lk miles so far. I did have a few items come up but FM has gone above and beyond.
Dang that's impressive power! FuelMoto is awesome, those guys really support you after the sale too.
What’s wrong with a belt drive enclosed primary , like the Brute force 3 ?
I’ve got the Barnett extra plate kit. Pretty good clutch IMO. Only complaint is that the friction zone goes to about 30% of OE. Takes some serious retraining of the hand.
I agree I honestly don't like the feel of the Barnett unit I just installed
@@jonhopkins1284 you get used to it. It takes time, but you do. What primary fluid are you running?
what do you mean by "friction zone"?
I've had a lot of problem with that Fuel Moto pressure clutch plate😢 spent too much money for something that really doesn't work
Thanks for this video. I’m about to install a 120st with a woods 408-44 cam. I’m thinking new plates and spring should work well.
That cam is going to make that 120ST live up to it's full potential! Really only difference between the 120ST and R is the cam and the ST comes with a throttle body. The R has the SE 259E which is ehhhh, you'd still want a cam swap with the R motor too.
@@GixxerFoo so I changed my mind. Just doing woods 777 in my 103. And using money for more upgrades like stretched bags hard lowers with speakers. Chrome wheels…………
But I think I’m going to be happy with the cams.
More top info.
I appreciate you watching and thank you for the support!
Stock bro!!! Big bore kit from fuel moto coming in January.
That big bore kit is going to be a whole new world when you get that installed!
What type of horsepower would you consider high horsepower?
BDL lock up clutch has ball bearings that spins and locks it up. Have it in my fat boy 103 ci SE Crankshaft.
That's a nice system, what all did you do to your bike with that SE crankshaft?
Big boyz ported and polished heads. Decked and cc. And compression release. .040 head gasket. Was going to be 95ci. Had ..030 head gasket for that . Found crank was junk at 9,000 miles. Was told to get .045 head gasket. Could not find. .040 it is. 2 in to 1 exhaust.
Gixxer
Great content! As usual. Would love to see you do some work on stuff if you ever get time.
The variable pressure units are good but I don't think they give you any advantage right of the bottom. They have to spin to a couple grand first. Is that correct? That's important to a person who likes to dump the clutch occasionally.
LittleO
Variable pressure units are a great cost effective option to getting an entirely new clutch, lol but like you said they need the centrifugal force to work which doesn't work for dumping the clutch!
Love your videos! Question about the Fuel Moto VP clutch. Is there any excessive noise created by the weights on the VP clutch?
Last thing I want is more engine noise. I see the Barnett VP uses less weights. Just wondering if excessive noise may have been an issue? I appreciate your comment.
Thank you! Not that I am aware of, I've seen a lot of VP clutches run and you wouldn't know it's there unless someone told you. Unless of course you ride the bike and feel the decreased lever effort.
I might do that then get elite moto tech levers for the easy pull
Those are some nice levers, they really do work! I've got a buddy that runs them and he loves them!
Long story short , I was riding my streetglide at night & suddenly my voltage ⚡️ drops to 8v so as I was looking at the voltage ⚡️ dropping I kept pushing the bike with open throttle to get to a gas station , had to tow it home.
I replaced the charging system to 54amp drag specialties but when I started it up it won't drop back down to idle , it stays reved at 3000 rpm.
What went wrong ?
That's pretty much a straight swap, my thought is that you would need to read the live data on engine temperature, voltage and when the bike is supposed to idle down. The higher output of the new charging system might be messing with EITMS (engine idle temperature management system), there might need to be some adjustments made to the values in those tables in the ECM.
I got a stock 2012 cvo road glide I was about to get new clutches and later a up build to a 117, what clutches should I got with?
Since you've got a nice hydraulic clutch already, a nice clutch plate upgrade would like Rekluse would be perfect for your bike.
What variable pressure plate do you feel works best with the rekluse plate pack?
I like the Fuel Moto myself, that one I trust more than Screamin Eagle but they are probably made in the same factory.
2018 breakout with a woods 22x cam kit 2 into 1 pro pipe power vision heavy breather had one Dyno pull that says 116/127 at the wheel 30,000 miles on this set up and have never had a problem thus far. At what horsepower and torque with the new M8 114 should I upgrade my clutch?
That M8 puts out some really impressive power, you pulled some awesome numbers with a cam swap! I'd say you're in the range to upgrade your clutch, you're producing more power than Harley's stage III kit where they add the high capacity clutch spring. You got up there at a fraction of the cost of that Stage III with just a cam swap.
So you saying using the Barnett heavy duty spring in my 16 ultra with hydraulic clutch will still be no so bad on the clutch lever?
Shouldn't notice a lot of increased lever effort with the hydraulic clutch, now with a cable clutch you would really feel it.
After watching your recent videos, makes me wonder,, as torque increases is HD coming up with a computer controlled clutch that you would have to pay a subscription for?
Lol I wouldn't put it past them at all if they did something like that!
Mine got heavy duty spring with 103 kit
Hi I'm putting my clutch on a 07 Harley Sportster and I accidentally bought the wrong center plate clutch for it can I run two regular plates on there without the center plate
I'd make sure you get the correct center plate back in there.
Woods tw222 on a 103 what would u reccomend on clutch? 17k on motor.
At least a heavy duty clutch spring, or bolt on one the variable pressure clutch kits. Those will increase the clamping force without increasing your lever effort.
Can I use the heavy duty plate with the vac?
The heavy duty clutch plate will work with that.
Man, I got to stop watching your stuff, you be costing me too much money. Lol. I’m gonna try to add that centrifugal clutch as quickly as possible before I burn up my stock stuff. 112 TQ probably ain’t beating them clutch plates up to bad. Oh, great info I had no idea that clutch upgrade even existed.
Lol there's all kinds of stuff for Harleys just waiting to take your money! I really like those centrifugal units, even on the stock plates they will way more torque than what most can throw at them. Fuel Moto says upwards of 150 ft lbs, that's pretty impressive on the stock clutch but my though is something else is going to give before the clutch then lol.
do you happen to know how long a stock flhr road king clutch pack should last if the motor is upgraded from a 88 to about 95-100 cubic inch high compression motor ? the bike has about 43k on stock clutch and i'm thinking i should replace as i don't feel it's getting all the power it should it kind of feels like the clutch is winding up or behind the motor if you catch my meaning ?
It honestly wouldn't hurt to rebuild the clutch with the miles, especially if you're looking at freshening up your motor.
Motor was already upgraded many years ago I think all that was done w
Was a high pressure plate was added as the clutch is a bear to depress
Thank you so much for this. Just ordered the heavy duty spring as my 103 are getting cams this season and I’ve already felt som slipping. I’ve got a question for you. If I were to not have the courage to change my diaphragm spring myself, how much time should my local dealer be able to change this part within? Any complementary clutch parts in specific that you’d recommend or such when already in there together with the diaphragm spring? Cheers!
I was told Kevlar was better to go with??
I have a stock set up as far as I know in a 08 RG TC96, I just installed a FP3 tuner with some Cobra slip ons and I’m tooling down a backroad and feels like clutch is slipping now. Surely one tune doesn’t give me that much power lol
No just a tune isn't going to cause the clutch to slip, if you bolted on a turbo and tuned it I could see the clutch slipping a little lol. I would start by adjusting the clutch to spec, simple and easy before digging into it. If that doesn't improve the situation it might be time to go ahead and swap in a new clutch.
I might try the bolt on variable pressure clutch…. Seems like a solid improvement
@@GixxerFoo thanks man! Love the content!
All out. Run s&s evo88 w6 cam 10.2.1pistion it need and all clutch.🚶👍👍👍👍👍
I had the SE clutch kit mentioned early in the video. I can’t recommend it.
Just the heavy clutch spring?
@@GixxerFoo no the Heavy Duty spring works fine. The SE clutch kit for the twin cam was disappointing. I ended up replacing it with a barnett clutch kit that has been working very well, so far.
88 ci put a barnett 10 plate with a barnett diaphragm spring (not heavy duty) - can i put a variable spring also with the diaphragm ?
Should be able too, it's a direct bolt on. You might give Barnett a call just to double check.
@@GixxerFoo thank you
Not a problem at all!
Should you change the stock compensator as well?
I actually have a video over the compensators too, it's not a bad idea if you're having an issue with it. Failures are pretty common on the compensators, I really like the Dark Horse compensator eliminator. It has a cush drive built in and you don't have all the issues associated with the compensator.
@@GixxerFoo thanks man, I appreciate it. I’m probably just doing aftermarket cams on my 96 cube. I’m not looking for huge power. Just some good passing power and low end torque. 👍. I love Harley but man some of their components are serious junk. I appreciate the help. Keep that great information coming.
Will do! The compensators really suck, aftermarket cams are really the way to go. They produce better horsepower and torque than Harley stage kits in some instances.
@@GixxerFoo Compensator on my 88 went out somewhere just over 20k - first thing that broke. Next was cam chain tensioners at around 30 or so. Aside of th having to GUT the fuel valve, nothing else has broken at 58k, and I live to rip the twisties!
Next upgrade has been confirmed. Lol. Stock clutch is slipping
Does anyone else feel like it’s hard to get the clutch out in a hurry when doing a hole shot take off? Thinking a heavier spring would help.
Heavier spring would be a harder pull but a faster return.
@@GixxerFoo I’ve heard the police bikes have a heavier spring from the factory, wonder if that’s for chasing down the speeders or for their rodeos
How much can a stock clutch handle ? Im building a 107 with feuling 543 cams .... im hoping for 100/100
I'd go with the Fuel Moto variable system. You will need more pressure. And add new clutch plates if the bike has over 20k on it. Easy bolt ons.
Its a new clutch , very few miles on it . But i was thinking about a +1 plate kit , next time i change it .
Ok so the stock clutch wont handle the power . 👍
The Chief Engineer
107 you should be at least & 110 hp 115-120 TQ
I would at least add a heavy duty clutch spring, the Harley stage IV kit adds that and they can produce well over 100HP. If you had any issues from there the variable pressure kit is an easy add on if you need it.
Its only a 10-1cp but i did get some SE heads for it so it should breath a bit better 110/120 seem like a lot . Not bad if it does . Would be a big change from the stock 96” 😉
hey since you call yourself GIXXERfoo Im wondering WHERE is your Suzuki GSXR???? Got one lurking off camera????
That's actually my keep sake from my 2003 1000, I was rear ended by another bike on a group ride. Rebuilt the bike and it just was never the same after the crash for me. Anyone else that rode it never felt the difference, but I sold it about 15 years ago.
@@GixxerFoo I want to build a chopper either with a gixxer or busa power plant. So far haven't found one wrecked in good enough condition for cheap.
That would be interesting! I've seen them with KZ motors but never a modern water cooled engine!
@@GixxerFoo I already have a chopped 71 Honda CB750 FOUR SOHC. It's got a 836 cc big bore and RC ENGINEERING components inside. Andrews gears. Electronic ignition. One fast chopper
Made my lever 20x harder to pull on a hydraulic clutch system
Shouldn't of had that issue with a clutch upgrade on a hydro clutch, you might have some air in there.