Barnett Extra PLate Kit and H-D Diaghram Spring Installation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ค. 2024
- Barnett's own instructional video on how to correctly install the Barnett Extra Plate Kit and H-D Diaphragm Spring. If you want to know how to do it right, this is the place! Although Barnett has several other Clutch kits, extra plate kits and diaphragm springs this video will help for the install of all of them.
Barnett Tool & Engineering's Extra Plate Kit adds an extra 11% of surface area to your clutch! The kit consists of an extra friction and steel plate, available in Kevlar or Carbon Fiber. The extra 11% allows for increased capacity without any modification.
Also installed in this video is Barnett's heavy duty diaphragm spring. These springs are approx. 25% heavier then stock O.E.M. springs allowing for a more powerful clutch and performance.
These kits are made here in our facility in Ventura California and no modifications are required.
Check out the entire Barnett Performance Product line at www.barnettclutches.com
You’re the first video to mention taking those rings out
Excellent video. Thank you for the calm patient instruction.
Excellent video! Just bought a 2009 RK Police from a mechanic. He put a Kevlar Barnett kit into it so I wanted to learn more. Also considering upgrading my girlfriend's Dyna. Thanks.
Great instructional video. Thanks. I watched as it was suggested I do this. I’m not mechanical but you made it seem ok to do the job.
0
Great video! Thank you for the details!
Excellent video, I will undoubtedly do this job on my motorcycle
Great video man, very helpful. And your right I don't read the paper till I mess something up 🤣🤣😭
Very cool and simple language... excellent.
Great video. I am now subscribed
I used the Barnett HD spring when I put cams in my 103. Thing was brutal pull , I took it out and bought the Screaming eagle spring. Much easier pull and doesn’t slip. But now I raised the compression & had minor head work so I ordered the Barnett 307-30-10013 x plate kit and will be re-using the SE. spring. Thanks for the well done video
Why would you reuse the spring
@@juelzreyes4638
Why not ?
Perfect, thanks Chance!
Great info Subbed! Thanks Guys! Salute!
Ty 4 sharing
I DON'T HAVE A HARLEY.....BUT THIS WAS A GOOD VIDEO FOR ANY MOTORCYCLE.....
The E-Z pull devices are great as long as you can properly adjust the cable which can be an issue. For that reason, we make a simple spacer that can be installed at the lever or midway adjuster - P/N 111-80-28619 (chrome) and 111-80-68619 (black) - 2 spacers per pk.
Thank you brother chance
Good video guys. I used it today to install my extra plate kit and clutch spring conversion kit. All went well. Noisy clunk when first starting and when it warmed up, smooooothh.
Tha is for the video
Vic 2% I was attempting to install the extra plate kit, and the spring conversion kit. I didn’t have the two stock damper springs because with the Harley SE kit you don’t use them. Did you install them
When you did your install.
@@Tonybfast hi mate. I took put everything that was standard from HD. It's hard to see it but there is a concave spring, and a flat spring at the rear of the standard plates. I nearly didnt see them but I had the installation video on the TV and had a poke around and found them. I just installed the plates that were in the Barnett kit, then the spring conversion with the standard springs and it's all worked fine since. Hope this helps?
Thanks Sir. My kit had old instructions, I put it all together, bleed my Clutch and it worked like a champ
That would be an oil issue if it goes away when it gets hot
@@barnettclutchesandcables9838 thanks guys. All went well after the first run. I'd also installed a Műller easy pull and a new Barnett cable. All new oils throughout.
Excellent
Good video. You commented on the heavier lever pull with the stiffer clutch spring. I wish you would have mentioned the likes of the "Muller Motorcycle AG Power Clutch" option where the geometry of the disengagement mechanism offers a mechanical advantage to mitigate that stiffness in clutch the lever. I know sometimes performance comes at the cost of comfort, what are your comments about this variation from the stock lever feel?
thanks for answereing me
Thank you for telling me to remove those two rings. I wasn’t going to remove them rings
I have a question if I'm upgrading to a Barnett clutch my system is hydraulic do I want to use the heavy duty spring by Barnett or the stock spring I do not want a super heavy clutch pull on lever
16 ultra limited
Do you remove those ring plates for all Harley’s ??? I just installed that clutch and left those ring plates in. Everything went back together, just haven’t turned on the bike.
did you put thread lock on the retainer plate bolts?
Installed the Exra Plate kit on my Harley along with your stock spring....I made sure I to the two rings out of the clutch basket as you require to be done with the extra plate clutch. If I adjust the center push rod 1/2- 3/4 turn out and lock the nut the damn bike when its hot will not go into neutral .....There isn't enough throw out. Im thinking that is because I changed the ball ramps on the clutch to easy pull ball ramps so that means the ramps aren't as steep therefore the stock 1/2-3/4 turns out won't work. Im not moving the rod far enough because the ramp height is less. So, Im thinking I should adjust the rod so the set screw touches and then do not turn it out at all....What are your thoughts on this...????
I noticed you didn’t use a compression tool, is that dependent on the specific Harley model? I have a 2004 883
This doe not apply to M8 touring bikes. There is a specific order to the way the plates get installed. Luckily I read the instructions and called Barnett to verify this. With that said, love the way my clutch feels now.
Watched your video on changing the clutch plates, I guess the process would be the same for a 2014 Heritage Softail correct? If so thank you for your excellent video. .....
Yes, that is correct.
Anybody knows how much steel plates and friction plates do I need for a Big Twin HD Motorcycle?, I'm from Chile and I'm trying to buy and ship both kits for my HD Touring 08'
how do you start a fuel injected twin cam cold harley?
sir I thought friction plate first then steal plate second. cool video you make it so easy
That is correct. Alternate frictions and steels.
I installed this kit, now I got a sqeell when I start off in first gear, what is the answer for this?
Thank you so much for this. Just ordered the heavy duty spring as my 103 are getting cams this season. I’ve got a question for you. If i were to not have the courage enough to change my diaphragm spring myself, how much time should my local dealer be able to change this part within? Any complementary clutch parts that you’d recommend or such when already in there? Cheers!
Please contact Chance at Chance@barnettclutches.com
Don’t be nervous, Jacob.
Just buy a service manual and follow the instructions.
If you’re interested, I posted a 10 part video series on servicing the primary drive of my ‘05 Super Glide.
Good
Barnett Heavy duty spring is 25% harder, but what about Barnet standard spring? Is it the same stiffness like a stock HD spring, or little bit stiffer? (2005 Sportster Low 883 spring with blue dot)
Our standard springs are a little stiffer then stock springs.
Chance, I spoke with you yesterday and I followed the video instructions but I had one steel plate left. The bike didn't move when I put it all back together. Should I add the last steel plate against the pressure plate?? You guys are closed Friday through Sunday.
Thanks in advance!
Sounds like you bought the one with 10 plates? I’m going to install mine today, what was the resolution?
I have a 2007 sportster 1200 which seems like trans and primary oil is combined. I read on the instructions that the Harley formula + oil will cause sticking. Which is the better primary/trans oil to run for hard use???
You can use ATF type F or Dexron. The type F will give you more aggressive engagement whereas the Dexron will be smoother. Any of the name brand primary oils designed for the Sportster clutch are also fine to use.
@Barnett Clutches and Cables I Did this kit and my friction zone all but vanished. With the stock clutch, bike would begin to move when lever was about half an inch from the grip, now the bike won't move until the clutch lever is almost all the way out....I don't like it. Can I put the spring and seat back in to decrease my friction zone and make it engage earlier??
Do not put the damper spring and seat in. The EP kit does not use them. Trying adjusting your clutch lever to have more free play in it. That should help with engagement. I tend to run my clutch levers a little sloppy in the free play to get it to release where I like it.
Can I use the stock spring with the extra plate kit? Will that result in a softer clutch lever (Close to stock)? Stock Harley Roadster..
Yes! The stock spring will keep the lever effort the same and there is no need for a stiffer spring or spring conversion unless you start building the motor and find that you need more spring pressure. 👍🏻
Why don't you show the Indian 111 clutch install?
With the heavy duty spring i have to leave no free play at the lever or else the clutch will not disengage since the spring is so hard.
Is that normal with heavy duty springs and extra plate kits?
no
I did this installation and adjusted the screw in the primary 1/2 turn and the lever 1/4 of play and clutch feels like it engages when it is almost all the way out
Make sure you removed the OE damper spring and seat from the assembly. Adjust at the clutch, then adjust the midway adjuster for the lever free play. You might just have to run more free play in your lever to get it to release where you like it. I personally do not like it releasing all the way out- I'd rather have one third to half way before it engages. I also tend to run a fair amount of play in my clutch levers to get it how I like it.
I added this kit in my bike, 2016 HD Streetglide Special, hydraulic clutch and the instruction indicate the two small springs that go in the back are suppose to be installed. When I torqued everything down I could see movement of the clutch but there was little to no pressure on the lever. Any suggestion
It is not installed properly. Please double check the installation and plate orientation.
I’m about to install this kit on my 2016 Streetglide special. 103 with the hydraulic clutch. What did you figure out? Follow this video to the T?
Just installed the barnett xtra plate kit and stiffer spring on my 2012 1250 hammer performance Sporty. Clutch lever is hard as hell now. Like crazy hard. Works great tho, even tho I’m struggling a little with the adjustment. The N is also quite hard to find now. What can I do to make the clutch less hard? I have arthritis, so its kind of a bad combo.
Put the stock spring back in it. You shouldn't need the heavy duty spring.
I did the Barnett plates, billet pressure plate and 25% spring on my 1250cc Sportster and it was incredibly hard, like stupid hard to pull the lever and I have a good grip. I got rid of the stock levers and used 1FNGR easy pull levers and a Magnum black pearl clutch cable and it is night and day, much much easier to pull! I have had a slight squeak that comes out of it ever since I upgraded a year ago. Through different oils and adjustment I have been able to get rid of most of it but it still does it a bit.
I remember that Dan (Hammer performance) was careful to say that in most cases, 15% of the spring is quite sufficient and 25% is not very suitable for street use. The principle of clutch springs is actually quite simple. The stronger the spring, the stronger the clutch bite and the less likely it is to slip (because they are held tightly in place by the stronger spring).
However, this is all relative and you need more force to make it separate.
Other than the cable adjustment is it the same on a hydraulic clutch?
yes
06 883 xl would have the two seating rings in it also?
No. The Sportster uses a double riveted steel plate in the clutch pack. If you replace your clutch with our Sportster extra plate kit (#307-30-10011), the double riveted steel plate is NOT used. If you replace your clutch with a standard replacement clutch, then you will retain the double riveted plate.
Hello , I have installed in my Harley Dyna Switchback clutch disks and plates high performance Barnett, now, when I cut gas studently, I hear friction noise between in disks and plates clutch as per they cannot take the declaring force, please inform how I can solve it.
Many thanks.
Call and ask for tech support at 805-642-9435 (M-F, 8am-4pm PST).
can you use automatic transmission fluid on your clutch pack and in the primary i heard of some one doing that what do you think? like video will subscribe
Yes, Type F will provide a harsher, more grabby engagement and Dexron will provide a smoother engagement. Fine to use though.
I, and a select few others have had a slight squeak when releasing the lever. I have a Barnett extra plate, Barnett billet pressure plate and Barnett 25% spring in my 1250cc Sportster. I have got rid of 80% of it by using different oil and adjusting it. It hooks up awesome and works great but that little noise drives me nuts. Any ideas?
Try a little more free play at the pressure plate adjuster. The noise is the plates grabbing and hooking up. Its not hurting anything though.
@@christaylor4266 I figured it wasn't doing any harm. I have heard guys say that they use B&M Trick Shift fluid in the primary and apparently that stuff does the trick so unless you say that's a bad idea, that will be next. I appreciate the response!
EAR PLUGS! Your Welcome.
Will adding the extra plates, change where's the hydraulic clutch releases? Lever to grip ?
No it will not.
if I do this extra plate kit kevlar in my 2009 street bob and use the stock spring. will it still be a hardder clutch than stock? or same feel? only gets harder with the upgraded HD spring? thanks.
If you use the stock spring, the lever will feel the same. Using the heavy duty spring will make the feel noticeably stiffer.
so I only have about 10k miles on my bike, but wan't a bit more pressure on my clutch I guess you could say, little stronger, would replacing the stock spring with this HD one be fine? and not worry about all new clutch plates? or is there more to it? what exactly is this doing besides prolonging the clutch? which mine should be fine since its still low miles. is my thought.
@@christaylor4266
Is a new clutch cable needed when upgrading from stock? Thx
No, as long as your stock cable is in good working order, no need to replace it.
Was the inner friction plate you took out behind the rings ?
The damper spring/seat fits inside the inner friction plate which has a larger I.D. than the other friction plates.
Time for a compensator in that bike I watched the sprocket move and the rotor didn't when you were removing the spring bolts
Other than alternating is there an actual order of the discs?
The single "B" friction plate installs first, then alternate steel and friction plates.
Is there any difference between using Barnett kevlar and the carbon fiber clutch kit??
Both are excellent proven materials and you really can't go wrong with either. The main difference is that the CF has a bit higher heat tolerance so it's recommended for people that are very hard on their clutch and put a lot of heat to it.
@@barnettclutchesandcables9838 I was wondering traffic is terrible here in pa and heat is not my friend. I had the Barnett cf with pressure plate conversion in my R* and I was looking to do the same in my RK that and I'm NOT a big fan of them Diaphragm Springs
Is that a home made wrench that you used to tighten the nut?--thank you
Jim's specialty tool I believe.
Do you have a video on the standard Carbon Fiber plates install?
The standard CF kit will install in the same manner as the OE clutch comes out.
@@christaylor4266 Thanks thats exactly how i did it. The last damper spring and seat disnt even need to come out.
what about the snap ring i assume you reuse it, i didnt see when you re-installed it
Bubba I reused my snap ring. No issues
Yes you reuse it
Synthetic or Regular Oil? And does the Part #307-30-20013 come with the spring?
Any brand name primary oil is fine whether it is synthetic or non-synthetic. We just do not recommend the HD Formula Plus. You can also use ATF. Type F will give you a harsher, grabbier engagement while Dexron with provide a smoother engagement.
@@barnettclutchesandcables9838 Does the ATF recommendations also work the same for a stock clutch?
@@bodeine454 Yes.
I seen vids that say de-adjust primary chain all the way. My barnett kit is on the way. I see your chain is set still. And any advice for cleaning out clutch basket if there is pieces of my grenade plate or rivits? The big stuff for sure but what about small shavings? Can i use brake clean to clean out before i start my clutch pack?
Why is everyone having a hard time finding them in stock?
After installing new clutch Kit on my 15 Softail Slim can’t get it to Neutral when bike is runnig but if bike is off it will shift N no problem. Any idea what that could be
If it's the extra plate kit, make sure you removed the damper spring and seat. Also make sure that the clutch is adjusted properly.
@@christaylor4266 changed the oil and adjusted clutch. All good now
I don't have 6 bolts on the outside of my clutch basket, I have 8 studs with a notch in them grabbing on to the outer plate, also have a large c clip that I haven't been able to remove. Watched many videos but none address this. In need of professional advice please.
There’s a tool. To put that. Plate in to remove the c clip
@@jesseurquidez3142 thank you Jesse, what's the name of that tool?
I am assisting in doing one of your kits. What came out of this 2011 Harley with the EVO with the 103 engine. The "assumed" factory installed friction plates and steel plates, seem to be fishy. The parts that came out, or the parts closet to the transmission case, in this order...
Friction plate, with larger I.D. (X1).
Judder plate, inside of above friction disk (X1).
Belleville washer/spring, inside also of above (X1).
Then a steel plate (X1).
Small I.D. friction disk (X1).
Steel.
Friction.
Steel.
Etc..
Here is the issue. One of those steel plates is cone shaped or Belleville shaped, only of them is like this. Other then the shape being like a bellville washer/spring, it is identical to the other steel plates. It is perfectly cone shaped too. Does not appear to have been bent all to heck as it if was mashed to cause the cone shape. Or maybe it was and that is why it is shaped that way?
Is this normal? I have never seen this in a clutch pack assemble before and truly seems to be illogical for even wear pattern and to allow for a total clutch disiengagement while holding the clutch handle in, while in gear. And the bike does have friction passing through the few times it was started up. Plus, the pulling out of 1st to get into neutral and exceptionally difficult. I speculate this steel plate acting like a spring never allowing for a total disengagement of power transfer.
Yet, that is what came out of the unit, and the bike didn't do this. We have hunted for articles and pictures and videos of this oddity of a bellville shaped steel that is just like the other steel plates, in design, not including the it being cone shaped or Belleville spring look. The parts we purchased from Barnettes Clutches & Cables look great and measure out perfectly.
I also speculate that we should have just purchased the steels kit as well. But typically had fair luck in just reusing the steels in many other cases (not Harley stuff) but on foreign units, which is what I personally more familiar with.
Any verbal assistance to this strange oddity would be an absolute wonderful and kind gesture to educate me if that part is normal and supposed to be there and if so, where in the stack is it typically designed to be at. Or is this what happens if a steel gets cooked and warps? LoL. Mind you, my good friend is not aggressive with his toys. But parade duty is a common thing, and wonder if that could have caused such a warpage, if that is what caused this single steel plate to be shaped like this? Anybody's assistance will be so helpful.
If I’m picturing what you’re talking about correctly in my head, then yes it’s normal
There’s a video by Gilstrap Garage “Harley Davidson clutch replacement”. He talks about it
@@Jay_Hernandez96 Roger that. I shall look into this video. Thank you so much. As a follow up, the kit was installed, as per the instructions, and a few short tests and final cable adjustment ,etc., he has been running the new frictions disks, and also, he ordered in steels as well, and ALL IS GREAT with Barnett's kit/parts. I can safely assume, he has about 200 to 300 miles on his unit now and no issues. I still desire to learn about what that cone shaped steel is all about if it is shaped that way from the factory, or if heat caused that to deform into the cone shape... Thank you so much.
I believe that the cone shaped steel works something like an added internal diaphragm spring. Not the best design imo. The Barnett kits seem to be very durable with good lock-up. I have one on my 2016 stage two FLSTC and will soon be installing one in my 2010 FLHTK. Using the Screaming Eagle diaphragm spring on both as I have a little bit of arthritis in my Left hand. Otherwise I would have gone with the Barnett spring.
Is there a break in period with this set up?
Nope. Put it together and adjust per the instructions and use the correct oil then ride it like you stole it!
will my stock diaphram spring be ok with extra plate kit?
Yes, unless you’re putting out enough hp/tq to overpower the stock spring tension. We make a coil spring conversion kit #511-30-10004 for the 98-17 big twins. It converts it to six coil springs and comes with two sets of springs and three different pressure options. The spring conversion and EP kit are a very popular combination.
@@christaylor4266 thank you my man
Is amsoil primary fluid good to use ?
You can run Amsoil as long as it’s their V-Twin specific oil meant to be used with a wet clutch.
@@christaylor4266 yea Amsoil primary fluid
What kind of fluid are you using? type f?
You can use Type F or Dexron III. The Type F will give you a harsher, more grabbier engagement while the Dexron is smoother. Just don't use the HD Formula Plus.
What about belray?
Isaac Temple bel ray is fine
Can you give me the part number to fit 99 Roadking..Plates and Heavy Duty Spring..
The EP clutch plate kit is 307-30-10013, heavy duty spring is 502-00-01008.
He needs to remove the auto chain tensioner they cause big problems.
Do you guys do the instills or just sale the parts
We just manufacture the parts.
INCH pounds, NOT FOOT POUNDS. Rookie mistake to avoid. You need an inch pound torque wrench. Bolt will snap WAY before you reach the foot pounds.
i changed my clutch pack out with Barrnett extra plate set and new clutch cable shifts smooth but cannot get it to go into Neutral unless moving or motor off
Make sure that you removed the OE judder spring and seat from the assembly. If that is correct, make sure that it is adjusted properly at the clutch.
@@christaylor4266 mine did not have the judder spring or seat it had the Clutch Spring Plate with rivets
@@bowhuntertravis1 The 1990-97 Big Twins use the riveted spring plate, the 1998 & later Twin Cams use the judder spring/seat.
If only I would have watched this video first 🤦♂️lol
I glad I got an Indian..
What? Indian doesn't have a clutch?
Estas ajustando mal el clutch, antes de mover el ajustador el chicote o cable debe estar completamente flojo. Después de clocar el ajustador en su posición correcta y apretar ahora si ajustas el chicote o cable hasta que la palanca quede firme.
Clutch pill is brutal if your a old beat up grey beard like me. FYI.
@0:20 In a Hardy-doobiedy diaphragm spring what?!😂🤣🤣🤣
The vid is ok, but the steps should be followed correctly. Look at the proper camera and explain and demonstrate the exact procedure. As a master tech we know what we are doing, but a novice will rush through it and end up burning up the clutch. Also you stated that " guys call us wanting to buy the pressure plate spring and thats a Harley Davidson part." But then you install the heavy duty plate. So you do sell a replacement. Xoming from a company like Barnett you should have done a complete rehearsal. I will add this, i have been using Barnett clutches on my bonneville for years. Barnett does make an excellent product.
"shorten the cable adjuster so it's all the way collapsed". What does that mean? They don't take the effort to show you. This video is kinda half ass. Maybe Energy One will show me.
Have had an Energy One in one bike for several years now
Over here to your left buddy
Screws, a screw is a screw until you put a nut on it, then it's a bolt.