I know they're just a sponsor, but figured you should know. They can't do a key for my 2007 Mini Cooper S, and they quoted $372.90 for a key for my FR-S. Not looking good for ol' CKE
If you have the area in your 3D printer bed. Then you should also be able to print multiple parts at one time. Just upload two or even more parts as one file. You will need more 3D printer filament.
Man get your self some bambulab printers!! I use mine to smash out car parts consistently - only time its let me down is when i havent prepped properly
This is absolutely the direction you guys should go with builds. Working with awesome concept artist and designers like Brad, and bringing 3D concepts to life, is what sets you apart - or could.
You need to make a mold, doesn't matter if your making 1 of 1 or not. Doing an overlay and peeling it off leaves you with a part you'll have to use a load of body filler on and dimensionally larger. Take the time to do this one right man.
I also think a mold is the best way to go, even if you base it on 3D prints you’re going to have to shape them with filler and such. To me it seems that you’re trying to take shortcuts where there really isn’t one. Building a wide body kit is tedious work even if it’s based on computer design and 3D printers. You don’t lack talent, you lack patience, my friend.
It is a great idea to print the panels in sections, just a suggestion for you, you can try to print them with tongue and groove ends, that way they kind of snap together so you can weld it easier and stronger!
You need a much larger nozzle on that 3D printer bud, you could print those pieces in a fraction of the time, you may need to swap out the hot end to suit the higher flow.
@@BisforBuild would 100% recommend still trying to get rid of that 20k printer and get 4-5 Anycubic Kobra Max's or something with a larger bed. WAY faster printing, way cheaper parts.
Also, there are slivers that add supports to prevent the warpping on the bottom and also you can use keys and insets to lock the pieces together. That way the pieces align better. The are plenty of 3d printing youtubers that would love to collab and walk you through more efficient workflows
@lasersterling is that channel. PLA is the not the right material for this project. Stop now and switch to PETG. If the plan is to skin it with carbon fiber , the PLA will not bond with it well. You will have delaminating issues and will have to start over.
If you can get your printer nicely tuned you could fill your 7 foot printer with many many pieces to print at the same time. It would take days, but be a lot less hands on. It might same some time since it would be running over multiple nights when individual parts may have had a lot of overnight down time. That said, I think your idea of a large number of smaller printers is probably a better solution for your use case.
I absolutely love Brad’s concept. The way he resolved the negative space in between the front fender and the door is beautiful as is the entire design. I also disagree that the front fender looks empty. I’m not sure if it’s the aggressive peak on top or the extreme width distracting me from it but the empty side area really doesn’t bother me at all. It looks unique and amazing. If I were you I’d ditch those wheels and go with some more insane specs to stay true to his original vision. Not being able to turn is a worthwhile sacrifice for something so crazy looking if you ask me. Also, speaking as someone who’s tried and succeeded (after numerous failures) to print parts for cars, I was definitely waiting for you to mention the part about the scale issue. I quickly learned that modeling and printing is the easy part but the real challenge is making sure your base model is truly accurate. I found that the only real way to do that with any confidence is with a scanner. In my experience game models are never accurate. Either way, this is my favorite one of your builds to watch and I’m excited to see it come together.
Careful with pla staying in there. It’s fantastic for quick prints and things that are mostly indoor use, but its glass transition temp is way too low for something that will be baking in the sun. I would not leave it in the spoiler, it will soften inside there and could potentially cause other issues down the road. If you need something 3d printed that is for outdoor use abs or asa. (Abs is cheaper, but asa is better for most things) The waviness on the bottom shouldn’t be from the pla melting into the bed unless you’re running that bed super hot. 40-60c on the bed, if it’s higher than that then it’s too much. I assume that’s a compounding elephant foot from not having a great first layer/not leveled/the first layer having an extrusion multiplier. Also, if you’re not printing with a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle you definitely should, it will SIGNIFICANTLY increase your print speed, with only a slight decrease in quality.
OEM is for everyone that owns one…. Make it your own, I love seeing the thought process and ideas that go into your builds. And seeing them is sincerely a unique experience with each build!
I don't know if you've heard of or used this slicer before, but I use SuperSlicer. SuperSlicer is a fork of PrusiaSlicer, and PrusiaSlicer is a fork of the old and abandoned Slic3r. There have been many improvements and features added in those two since Slic3r was abandoned back in 2018. For example, one of your complaints of large prints using too much filament and time; there's the ability to specify where you want the slicer to use supports and also a newer type of support called tree supports. Which uses less filament and time to print.
The Tron lighting/strips on the first image at 10:53 would be so sick on this build. Really stay true to the cyberpunk aspect. And it doesn't *have* to be lights, I think a reflective tape would achieve the same goal
I would have tried to slice it along the long axis and then printed both pieces at once on the flat slice, then one seam. Prints much faster that way too… height/layers are always more expensive than x/y. Then you get to use the whole printer! Maybe you are having trouble doing that but I haven’t seen you mention it.
I love how honest and straight forward you are about your "learning opportunities". I own a 3D printing company myself and can relate to every problem you've run into 🤣I have also learned a lot about filming and creating content from watching (and shamelessly ripping off some elements of) your videos, so thank you for being you!
Bad ass design, I was disengaged with this project until I saw this new design, brother that red model is literally 🔥 back on track with this one my man. Keep it coming!
when designing and chopping the parts for print add registration holes, just a couple of 1" deep holes for 1/4" dowel will make it really easy to align everything
Very cool to see! When we did the plugs for the LTO BMW E36(We met at the launch), We added ribbed structure to the back in addition to the part thickness. It helped keep the parts from warping and added rigidity. 3D printing has come along way but nothing beats the tolerances of CNC machining or finishing for fit and finish.
I like how the front gives Mach 5 Speed Racer vibes without being over the top and outlandish. Excited for the 3D printing potential for future projects!
I would look at cutting off bed heating at certain layer count. The waviness could be from temp swings in the shop if the printer isnt enclosed. That might help with the quality of the long print time.
Have you explored a full size CNC machine then you can cut out the shapes to make a mould in sections. Then could forge carbon fibre or whatever else you want to use. I'm trialing this for motorbike parts.
Please reconsider the base resin!!! As others have said your panels will sag and deform in direct sunlight. It would be such a bummer to complete all the prep only to have the finished product deform. Great project
B is for Build, you may have issues in that laying the fibreglass over the PLA parts may cause them to warp due to the heat generated from the fibreglass resin.
just amazing watching you guys as you learn make mistakes and develop your skills using different methods and tech in ypur builds. You guys have come so far from your Dystopian Lexus that you built in your gravel driveway.
When I saw how much the front wheel sticks out, I w was really worried, but the vent in the front "overfender" looks really awesome and I can't wait to see what that looks like
I use a RV winding rod which saved me twice and work great when you can't get a key. As for the body parts you should use a heat gun to fix little off setting...
For later 3d printing projects you can print multiple parts at once and it looks like you can reduce the infill, and for connecting the pieces adding in design some connection points will help and you can use 3d glop that bonds pla
I'm usually an advocate for restoring the car back to stock, but this kit is really adding to the feel of the car. Can't wait to see the next iteration!! Cheers!
3d Gloop is a better adhesive for PLA. The reason for the woop-de-doos at the seams is, the material shrinks a bit as it cools but it's held solid on the ends, keeping it in shape. Making the panels thicker, with an infill, will help mitigate it.. Much like a honeycomb panel under fiberglass makes it a lot stiffer.
I like the design a lot, one thing if nobody else mentioned that I’d change is the front seems like it needs a little more aggressiveness in it. Just doesn’t feel like it’s as aggressive as the rear. Also like mentioned in the video, those fenders for sure need something added with all the space on there. Can add vents possibly? Idk either way can’t wait for the next upload!
When you first announced this car as the Tesla donor I wasn't that excited but since you had to pivot I am super excited about this build! I love how it is looking and I can't wait to see more.
If you look into conical slicing there are techniques that let you print mid air no supports, it really cool and I haven't seen anyone talk about it, there is also the option of a $600-$800 belt printer so you can make long pieces in one shot with 90 degree overhangs no supports. Love the use of a 3d printer for this though
Love this , a true one of one build . You should give the old scrap body kit parts away , they would make some great garage wall art 🙏🏻👍🏻, can’t wait to see the progress on this awesome 👏🏻
If you need a car to build a wide body for.. and lots of welding let’s collab! I have a 1995 acura legend 6 speed coupe turbo it needs a wide body! Loving this idea and kit your building!
I love that render! The 3d printing approach seems like a great way to get a look at it in real life. You know I'm no expert in 3d printing but it semes like the vertical prints with minimal support might be one of the major soutces if distortion in the prints. Alternatively you can work with wonky prints, body fill them to perfection, and then use that positive to create a mold. Either way excited to see how it goes. Nice work man!
You might want to look into recovering scrap pieces from your printer and turning them back into usable filament. It's not a very complicated process, but takes some special equipment.
Even though this car has taken the longest out of most of your projects, I’m glad you’re taking your time for once, the end product is definitely going to turn out the best.
that peak next to the bed is called elephants foot, there are ways to minimize it, but yea that usually means your bed is too hot, if you are using pla, dont go over 60c, if you are using abs, you might need more, but you could build an extra 1/4" layer on bottom as a support and put your part on top of the support, that way the support gets the elephant foot and your part is built on top. If you are using abs, you need to make sure your print chamber is heated, that will help avoid warping too. Judging by all the warping and ect issues, you might want to use a different material. Another thing you could do is get a much better part cooling fan on the hotend. My pla prints almost never have this issue, you may want to swap to that.
Print with no supports by cutting the spoiler in half front to rear. We can print farm your next project! You should put in a carbon fiber spar in that spoiler, it strengthens it and allows you to slide the parts on the tube for alignment and strength.
thats a lot of work, fiddliness, and love and skill. props to you all for the work, creativity and the sheer amount of work to accomplish this. having said all that... i would not want that in my garage. glad you have one and are happy with it though!
You can also get an Elegoo Neptune 4 max for like 450 bucks and it has a huge printbed 480mm x 480mm, so you can buy like 10 of those and print more and faster than anything else.
How about you just print it with ASA and use that as the body panels because your waiting time printing pla at 100% infill on those body panels to just throw away and not at least make a mold
A suggestion. I saw the Mustang at SEMA and was amazed how well it turned out, but...people were commenting on how nice a '67 it was. They didn't know what they were looking at. I explained to a couple of folks that it was a late model Mustang with a steel '67 body on it and they were amazed! YOU NEEDED A SIGN. When you bring the Lambo, bring a sign explaining what it was, what you did, and what we are looking at!!
Also since they are only going to be supports for composites, you dont need more than 10 to 20% infill. I saw gyroid infill there, which is fine but takes more time to print and puts more strain on the motors. It is good when strength is needed in every direction, but you dont really need that. You can go with a simpler and faster infil like cubic, quarter cubic, subdivision cubic or octet. You may want to use PLA+ instead of regular PLA, it is usually better in every way (less brittle, higher temp). PLA might be a problem with resin temperature, really... PETG might be the way to go. I mostly use sunlu rolls, they are cheap and I always get good results. I only had troubles with their red ABS.
For the front piece maybe add a vertical air vent or some daytime light strips (?) to fill the empty space and make it useful, For the wing maybe you could cut the model on the horizontal plane by the middle and split into top and bottom then have to work only on gluing 2 pieces
Visit CKE.co/BisforBuild and get 10% off! Thank you Car Keys Express for sponsoring this video!
This is soo convenient... I lost my Focus RS key and being avoiding going to the dealer for a while. I'll order one RIGHT NOW!!! Thanks!
I know they're just a sponsor, but figured you should know. They can't do a key for my 2007 Mini Cooper S, and they quoted $372.90 for a key for my FR-S. Not looking good for ol' CKE
If you have the area in your 3D printer bed. Then you should also be able to print multiple parts at one time. Just upload two or even more parts as one file. You will need more 3D printer filament.
Man get your self some bambulab printers!! I use mine to smash out car parts consistently - only time its let me down is when i havent prepped properly
Chris! for god's sake, It's "Murciélago" with the strong syllabe in the "e" and not in the "a"!!!
This is prime BisforBuild content here. PLEASE paint this it deserves it!!! The red render was so sick
100% love watching this stuff. Nice work boys.
This is absolutely the direction you guys should go with builds. Working with awesome concept artist and designers like Brad, and bringing 3D concepts to life, is what sets you apart - or could.
Agreed! 👏👏👏
If you are printing large panels, you can KEY the parts so they will snap together, making gluing much easier.
This is the way to go
You need to make a mold, doesn't matter if your making 1 of 1 or not. Doing an overlay and peeling it off leaves you with a part you'll have to use a load of body filler on and dimensionally larger. Take the time to do this one right man.
Ideal for replacing damaged parts if he's keeping it like he said he was 🤙
Will be cool to see this approach unfold. I think a lot of people are interested in this way
I also think a mold is the best way to go, even if you base it on 3D prints you’re going to have to shape them with filler and such. To me it seems that you’re trying to take shortcuts where there really isn’t one. Building a wide body kit is tedious work even if it’s based on computer design and 3D printers. You don’t lack talent, you lack patience, my friend.
@@ParabolicLabs thats a good point
@@BisforBuild and you make the parts Carbon fiber and possibly sell a couple kits people would absolutely love to have this kit.🤷🏿♂️
It is a great idea to print the panels in sections, just a suggestion for you, you can try to print them with tongue and groove ends, that way they kind of snap together so you can weld it easier and stronger!
You need a much larger nozzle on that 3D printer bud, you could print those pieces in a fraction of the time, you may need to swap out the hot end to suit the higher flow.
its like 1.5K for the new griffin 1.6mm, i have a 1mm right now. I may spend the cash though to update it
As someone who has to work with 3d printing and I hate it😂 finally someone explaining that it’s not easy. Slicing, and waiting is a hard hard thing.
@@BisforBuild would 100% recommend still trying to get rid of that 20k printer and get 4-5 Anycubic Kobra Max's or something with a larger bed. WAY faster printing, way cheaper parts.
Also, there are slivers that add supports to prevent the warpping on the bottom and also you can use keys and insets to lock the pieces together. That way the pieces align better. The are plenty of 3d printing youtubers that would love to collab and walk you through more efficient workflows
@@magnusrexus this man is literally one of the best/ smartest 3d print designers. Nobody is using a printer on this scale its unheard of
Make sure your fiberglass mix doesn't get too hot when hardening, PLA softens just above 55deg C.
First thing I thought! Hopefully he used petg or asa or something
@@toejamr1 It's PLA
PLA warps in the heat/sun as well. This isn’t going to end well.
@@geoff_alan Hopefully all the PLA will just be used as a base for glassing then be removed.
@@geoff_alan I've had pla shrink on car parts in the sun, agreed, this is not good.
Didn't a dad 3d print an aventador for his kid too? I think Lamborghini lent them a real one for a day as they were really impressed.
Creality sponsors him now. He's printing/restoring a McLaren currently.
Thought they lent him the car as a thank you for taking the Lamborghini name off of his project.🤔
Lamborghini supplied a few real parts for the 3d printed aventador
Laser sterling. One of my favorite channels
@lasersterling is that channel. PLA is the not the right material for this project. Stop now and switch to PETG. If the plan is to skin it with carbon fiber , the PLA will not bond with it well. You will have delaminating issues and will have to start over.
If you can get your printer nicely tuned you could fill your 7 foot printer with many many pieces to print at the same time. It would take days, but be a lot less hands on. It might same some time since it would be running over multiple nights when individual parts may have had a lot of overnight down time.
That said, I think your idea of a large number of smaller printers is probably a better solution for your use case.
I love the fact that it’s a group effort. You show everyone’s work and give them the credit.
I absolutely love Brad’s concept. The way he resolved the negative space in between the front fender and the door is beautiful as is the entire design. I also disagree that the front fender looks empty. I’m not sure if it’s the aggressive peak on top or the extreme width distracting me from it but the empty side area really doesn’t bother me at all. It looks unique and amazing.
If I were you I’d ditch those wheels and go with some more insane specs to stay true to his original vision. Not being able to turn is a worthwhile sacrifice for something so crazy looking if you ask me.
Also, speaking as someone who’s tried and succeeded (after numerous failures) to print parts for cars, I was definitely waiting for you to mention the part about the scale issue. I quickly learned that modeling and printing is the easy part but the real challenge is making sure your base model is truly accurate. I found that the only real way to do that with any confidence is with a scanner. In my experience game models are never accurate.
Either way, this is my favorite one of your builds to watch and I’m excited to see it come together.
ABS/ASA is a better choice for car part or anything that will be in the sun , PLA will warp due to heat
The PLA will never be in the final build, he is just using them to make fiberglass parts.
yeah, was worrying about that too. Maybe not that big of a problem in Oregon?
@@antistes6125 Summer days can definitely reach 100°+ F in Oregon. And then it rains for the rest of the year 😂
Who else noticed the pontoon logs 👀 He did say he's doing some other boat thing. I'd be hella excited for that!!!!
Also printing raised ridges every 8 inches or so in a grid on the backside of the plastic helps them hold their shape vs just creating a shell wall.
Either print the parts in ABS or print a negative mold and make the parts with Fibre glass
Careful with pla staying in there. It’s fantastic for quick prints and things that are mostly indoor use, but its glass transition temp is way too low for something that will be baking in the sun. I would not leave it in the spoiler, it will soften inside there and could potentially cause other issues down the road.
If you need something 3d printed that is for outdoor use abs or asa. (Abs is cheaper, but asa is better for most things)
The waviness on the bottom shouldn’t be from the pla melting into the bed unless you’re running that bed super hot. 40-60c on the bed, if it’s higher than that then it’s too much. I assume that’s a compounding elephant foot from not having a great first layer/not leveled/the first layer having an extrusion multiplier.
Also, if you’re not printing with a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle you definitely should, it will SIGNIFICANTLY increase your print speed, with only a slight decrease in quality.
Hes using a 1 mm nozzle and talked about upgrading to a 1.5 mm nozzle but it's north of 1k for the nozzle itself
Carkeys express sounds like a super interesting alternative to the dealer. One of the first ads of yours that I didn't just fast forward through
OEM is for everyone that owns one…. Make it your own, I love seeing the thought process and ideas that go into your builds. And seeing them is sincerely a unique experience with each build!
Murci is already my favorite lambo and that kit concept is 🔥🔥🔥. Good luck man looking forward to seeing it complete
I don't know if you've heard of or used this slicer before, but I use SuperSlicer. SuperSlicer is a fork of PrusiaSlicer, and PrusiaSlicer is a fork of the old and abandoned Slic3r. There have been many improvements and features added in those two since Slic3r was abandoned back in 2018. For example, one of your complaints of large prints using too much filament and time; there's the ability to specify where you want the slicer to use supports and also a newer type of support called tree supports. Which uses less filament and time to print.
The Tron lighting/strips on the first image at 10:53 would be so sick on this build. Really stay true to the cyberpunk aspect. And it doesn't *have* to be lights, I think a reflective tape would achieve the same goal
About damn time. This was the one I was waiting for, not the other stuff.
You get what you get not what you want.
I would have tried to slice it along the long axis and then printed both pieces at once on the flat slice, then one seam. Prints much faster that way too… height/layers are always more expensive than x/y. Then you get to use the whole printer! Maybe you are having trouble doing that but I haven’t seen you mention it.
I love how honest and straight forward you are about your "learning opportunities". I own a 3D printing company myself and can relate to every problem you've run into 🤣I have also learned a lot about filming and creating content from watching (and shamelessly ripping off some elements of) your videos, so thank you for being you!
Thanks for the tip on 3D printer size. That saved me a few thousand.
YES!!! I've been waiting for this build !
Bad ass design, I was disengaged with this project until I saw this new design, brother that red model is literally 🔥 back on track with this one my man. Keep it coming!
the pla will start to warp in the sun for the spoiler. That is unless you are using a special blend. I would love to know!
I think you should look into PC or a carbon fiber petg.
when designing and chopping the parts for print add registration holes, just a couple of 1" deep holes for 1/4" dowel will make it really easy to align everything
The swoop of that front fender has GT-40 vibes. Can't wait to see them in metal. Good stuff!
Very cool to see! When we did the plugs for the LTO BMW E36(We met at the launch), We added ribbed structure to the back in addition to the part thickness. It helped keep the parts from warping and added rigidity. 3D printing has come along way but nothing beats the tolerances of CNC machining or finishing for fit and finish.
Crazyyyyy body kit looks amazing 😍
I like how the front gives Mach 5 Speed Racer vibes without being over the top and outlandish. Excited for the 3D printing potential for future projects!
I would look at cutting off bed heating at certain layer count. The waviness could be from temp swings in the shop if the printer isnt enclosed. That might help with the quality of the long print time.
I love that you guys try new things but also listen to your community when they point out issues. Thanks for showing your success and failures
O is for Oscar 😊 nice welding, dude.
Your humbleness and honesty is refreshing and a large part of why i follow this channel.
humble? lol
Looks great and I think this car would look insane in a matte black with some dark grey accents
That front fender is giving me superbird vibes. Can't wait to see this build come together I'm excited
I've been aching for an update on the Murci, and now it's here. Couldn't be happier
Have you explored a full size CNC machine then you can cut out the shapes to make a mould in sections. Then could forge carbon fibre or whatever else you want to use. I'm trialing this for motorbike parts.
Regarding joining the pieces, look into the work working scene
Or a simple solution tabs at the back to rivet them together
Please reconsider the base resin!!! As others have said your panels will sag and deform in direct sunlight. It would be such a bummer to complete all the prep only to have the finished product deform. Great project
B is for Build, you may have issues in that laying the fibreglass over the PLA parts may cause them to warp due to the heat generated from the fibreglass resin.
just amazing watching you guys as you learn make mistakes and develop your skills using different methods and tech in ypur builds. You guys have come so far from your Dystopian Lexus that you built in your gravel driveway.
you should use petg if you want to get it out of the fiberglass. also petg is more dimensionally stable.
would love to know more about your print settings
When I saw how much the front wheel sticks out, I w was really worried, but the vent in the front "overfender" looks really awesome and I can't wait to see what that looks like
I use a RV winding rod which saved me twice and work great when you can't get a key. As for the body parts you should use a heat gun to fix little off setting...
If you make the panel sections jagged where they glue together like an F-117 door, then they go together with more surface area and they self align!
For later 3d printing projects you can print multiple parts at once and it looks like you can reduce the infill, and for connecting the pieces adding in design some connection points will help and you can use 3d glop that bonds pla
I'm usually an advocate for restoring the car back to stock, but this kit is really adding to the feel of the car. Can't wait to see the next iteration!! Cheers!
That concept is insane, im hype for this project.
3d Gloop is a better adhesive for PLA. The reason for the woop-de-doos at the seams is, the material shrinks a bit as it cools but it's held solid on the ends, keeping it in shape. Making the panels thicker, with an infill, will help mitigate it.. Much like a honeycomb panel under fiberglass makes it a lot stiffer.
I like the design a lot, one thing if nobody else mentioned that I’d change is the front seems like it needs a little more aggressiveness in it. Just doesn’t feel like it’s as aggressive as the rear. Also like mentioned in the video, those fenders for sure need something added with all the space on there. Can add vents possibly? Idk either way can’t wait for the next upload!
I hope the orange and black render is the colour your going with, it looked soooo much better than all black👍🏻
When you first announced this car as the Tesla donor I wasn't that excited but since you had to pivot I am super excited about this build! I love how it is looking and I can't wait to see more.
If you look into conical slicing there are techniques that let you print mid air no supports, it really cool and I haven't seen anyone talk about it, there is also the option of a $600-$800 belt printer so you can make long pieces in one shot with 90 degree overhangs no supports. Love the use of a 3d printer for this though
Love this , a true one of one build . You should give the old scrap body kit parts away , they would make some great garage wall art 🙏🏻👍🏻, can’t wait to see the progress on this awesome 👏🏻
If you need a car to build a wide body for.. and lots of welding let’s collab! I have a 1995 acura legend 6 speed coupe turbo it needs a wide body! Loving this idea and kit your building!
One of the quickest channels I click on when you upload, notifications be clutch fr
Try gloop it basically welds the 3d prints together then if toy use the plastic welder it will give you even more support
Oscar is an artist.
This is why i love your channel. Always going at it a little different way.
Can't wait for the result it's going to be so sick one off wide body lambo
Yeah! Finally an update on this build. Great. Very creative.
I love that render! The 3d printing approach seems like a great way to get a look at it in real life. You know I'm no expert in 3d printing but it semes like the vertical prints with minimal support might be one of the major soutces if distortion in the prints. Alternatively you can work with wonky prints, body fill them to perfection, and then use that positive to create a mold. Either way excited to see how it goes. Nice work man!
Wooooo Murci is back
So cool. Looking forward to seeing your process continue to refine building diy kits
You might want to look into recovering scrap pieces from your printer and turning them back into usable filament. It's not a very complicated process, but takes some special equipment.
Man Oscar has some crazy skills best TH-cam channel could watch you guys all day
Even though this car has taken the longest out of most of your projects, I’m glad you’re taking your time for once, the end product is definitely going to turn out the best.
that peak next to the bed is called elephants foot, there are ways to minimize it, but yea that usually means your bed is too hot, if you are using pla, dont go over 60c, if you are using abs, you might need more, but you could build an extra 1/4" layer on bottom as a support and put your part on top of the support, that way the support gets the elephant foot and your part is built on top. If you are using abs, you need to make sure your print chamber is heated, that will help avoid warping too. Judging by all the warping and ect issues, you might want to use a different material. Another thing you could do is get a much better part cooling fan on the hotend. My pla prints almost never have this issue, you may want to swap to that.
Print with no supports by cutting the spoiler in half front to rear. We can print farm your next project! You should put in a carbon fiber spar in that spoiler, it strengthens it and allows you to slide the parts on the tube for alignment and strength.
thats a lot of work, fiddliness, and love and skill. props to you all for the work, creativity and the sheer amount of work to accomplish this. having said all that... i would not want that in my garage. glad you have one and are happy with it though!
You should make the printed parts click together like lego internally and then also glue and weld the sides.
This build would look awesome with a hypershift paint job with black accents 🤤
I think it is going to be one of the coolest looking mercies out there.
One word for that design: Brutal! 👍
@BisforBuild Have you tried 3D gloop they make specific glue for PLA, PETG and ABS/ASA. Also it can be used to smooth out some of the seams
Renders look so cool! Can't wait to see it in reality.
Awesome and outstanding as always.Thanks for sharing and taking us along
I like how Chris just casually walks by those three big ass pontoons. Can't wait to see that monster being built.
I would suggest using that PLA part as a mould for glass fibre. Because PLA under the sun will warp and deform.
LOVING you are back to it. YEAH !!!!
You can also get an Elegoo Neptune 4 max for like 450 bucks and it has a huge printbed 480mm x 480mm, so you can buy like 10 of those and print more and faster than anything else.
im going to look into these
How about you just print it with ASA and use that as the body panels because your waiting time printing pla at 100% infill on those body panels to just throw away and not at least make a mold
I like the idea of front fender wings, like at top of wheel arch, something ive been thinking of as a new trend
Wow, It will look good when its finished, DDE will be jealous.
To remove the brim, you can use deburring tool.
A suggestion. I saw the Mustang at SEMA and was amazed how well it turned out, but...people were commenting on how nice a '67 it was. They didn't know what they were looking at. I explained to a couple of folks that it was a late model Mustang with a steel '67 body on it and they were amazed! YOU NEEDED A SIGN. When you bring the Lambo, bring a sign explaining what it was, what you did, and what we are looking at!!
The width of that car is insane. Looks awesome really
You should add in alignment tabs into the design to help hold parts together as you build them.
3D Gloop is also good for gluing prints together. It chemically bonds to each other.
You should get a camera for 3d print lives!! People would kill to watch that!!
This is the b is for build content I fell in love with!!!
Love seeing this thing back on my TH-cam feed! Nice work you guys.
Wwwaaaaaooooooo 😮I love all the colors in the 3D plant 🤩 is going to by crazy Lamborghini
Also since they are only going to be supports for composites, you dont need more than 10 to 20% infill. I saw gyroid infill there, which is fine but takes more time to print and puts more strain on the motors. It is good when strength is needed in every direction, but you dont really need that. You can go with a simpler and faster infil like cubic, quarter cubic, subdivision cubic or octet. You may want to use PLA+ instead of regular PLA, it is usually better in every way (less brittle, higher temp). PLA might be a problem with resin temperature, really... PETG might be the way to go. I mostly use sunlu rolls, they are cheap and I always get good results. I only had troubles with their red ABS.
For the front piece maybe add a vertical air vent or some daytime light strips (?) to fill the empty space and make it useful, For the wing maybe you could cut the model on the horizontal plane by the middle and split into top and bottom then have to work only on gluing 2 pieces