Orca Slicer is BETTER than Bambu Studio, Cura and Prusa Slicer because they were the food!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ย. 2023
- I forgot to mention!
Now that the K1 is using Fluidd or Mainsail, Klipper software, you can adjust settings while the print is going, if you need to adjust something on the fly, you can do it easily.
We're going full time! Help to make it a Success!
/ needitmakeit
If you own a 3D printer, you're going to want to try this slicer. It's packed with features, and you can now send wirelessly to each of your 3d printers from one single slicer with confidence!
Orca slicer came up on my feed and although I had heard of it, I didn't realize it was so good. I had to try it out, I wasn't happy with Creality print and I wasn't using my K1 much at all. I wanted to be able to send prints quickly and easily to the K1, and Creality Print was not doing the job well enough.
Orca slicer has taken the best features of different slicers and has eaten them and combined them once again into one software. It even includes some newer features that other slicers don't have to help printing very steep overhangs.
The creators have done an amazing job, and this is a community effort, which means we can support their work as well and help them do keep going.
After making the video, I've been printing on the Creality K1 all of the time, prior to it, I wasn't using it much, maybe once a week. It isn't quite as good as the Bambu X1 Carbon, but that's something I would expect with it being a far cheaper printer. I still think I can get more out of the printer with a bit more fine-tuning.
ORCA
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#bambu
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I use a drybox from creality to warm up and dry the filament before it's extruded and that makes a world of difference for my PETG prints. (I print PETG only with Overture filament).
Pre-warm them so the spool is warm? So we don't go from 20C to 255, it goes from 40C, less delta?
On my Enders I would print directly from the Filament dryer, I could see if that helps on the X1C as well.
I have been using Orca Slicer for a few months now and it has become my favourite slicer. I tried using Prusa Slicer and it has quite some useful and powerful features like making joints for divided parts, but I still find Orca Slicer easy to use with a simple UI and still having sufficiently advanced features and settings, not to forget it exists because of the Prusa Slicer in the first place.
I wonder how easy it is for Orca to pickup any new features from Prusa, seems like they should just all amalgamate into one.
@@NeedItMakeIt they could probably just copy and paste🤣🤣
@@LucaThePupineer Pretty much, with everyone being OS, as long as you know what you copy and paste. Prusa or Orca or Bambu, they're all pretty good, I'm leaning towards Orca mainly because of the ability to easily send to different brands of printers. I have 3 newer Creality Printers, and it's really seamless, the Bambu as well.
I'm sure someone else will come in and usurp them all!
@@NeedItMakeIt i havent printed with it yet but it sounds like its good
@@NeedItMakeIt It is because they all use the almost/probably the same code. But the MK4 Profile in Orca mainly doesn't work that well with my MK4. It depends about the printing model but most of the time PrusaSlicer is doing a better job at the MK4. I also think that Orca Slicer - generally - is not better than PrusaSlicer or Bambu Studio, it is just different and depend the printer which you use and of course the printer profile in the slicer.
I just began a test print with Orcaslicer on my K1, fingres crossed! i love it's organic supports!
I was glad once i saw the printer is supported by Orca. I never changed it back to a different slicer.
hey, what are the lights you print covers for them?
Impact of a slicer is very under rated(often neglected), compared to hardware( creality, bambu labs, prusa etc.). Glad that you've brought some clarity to the subject.❤👍
Hey, thanks for that! I knew that Creality Print wasn't 'cutting' it with this printer. Unfortunately there is still some lingering extrusion related problem, but it seems to give quite a bit better results for this printer over Creality Print. I am going to experiment with the extruder feed tube a bit to see whether it is being pinched too much and causing some of the problems, if you have any ideas, I'm all ears! Still very happy with Orca, I agree that the slicer plays a good part. It's like a team effort to get to the final result.
@@NeedItMakeIt If not for moisture in filament, it could also be some gum build up on the xy rods(only the steel ones). If it is consistent under extrusion, during fast printing speeds, could be a pinched ptfe tube. You could try a little bit of ptfe bike chain lubricant(a tiny drop goes a long way) on the xy rods. Also ensure rerunning input shaper after doing this. Finally, could reduce outerwall speed and print outerwall first,followed by innerwalls and infill, to get better skin. Just some suggestions.
@@aware2action I've been cleaning a lubing the rods with a very light oil, I've heard that the grease originally on the rods could cause some vibrations. I had also asked Creality if they had plans of providing a kit for CF rods instead of the steel with drylin type bushings.. they do not have plans. That's not really related, but I think OA it could help to reach higher speeds without with minimal ringing. I think the most likely cause is the PTFE tube, it's really tight in there, the Bambu is also a little Cramped as well, I may also do a head to head, or install a riser to remove that possibility. It's going to be better than the PTFE in the cable chain though! I had a comment on the following video to this one that my finger grease may impact the print quality, maybe it would impact it in a good way by giving some lube...? I laughed a bit too hard when I first heard someone say it, but I actually don't know the answer to the question, so I have to do some tests. The best oil I believe is jojoba, the most similar to the oil our skin secretes.
I'll do some more testing and report back on the progress! Thanks for your help.
@@NeedItMakeIt Glad you are on the the right path👍. BTW, there is even better oil than Jojoba, its Argan oil!(ensure its 100% pure) very slick and thin. Works wonders on tangly hair, hopefully works equally well on a linear rod/bearing🤞.
@@aware2action A few things to try for sure. I have 2 vids on the go, I'll be working on this one afterward. Should be interesting! I've never heard of this oil you speak of. I shall take a look... unfortunately I do not have a problem with tangles, but I could use it to give a nice even shimmer to my forehead.
Since I've discovered Orka slicer that's all I use but I've done some side by side comparison with other slicers and never want to go back to those other slicers. Orka just works better.
I recently got my K1. I like Orca, but not sure on how to get the purge line on left and the move bed away from head after print. It just stops at the end of the print with nozzle on the part. Something to do with the post processing? Where to get post processing scripts?
Any chance you could do a quick video, I can compare to what mine is doing, mine lowers the bed and parks middle right, that's the way it has always done it as well. Seems strange that yours would be different if their running the most up-to-date firmware and both running from Orca.
This cannot be changed in the Slicer. This is part of the Start Macro Codes in the Klipper Firmware of the printer. Same for the end, this is in the end print macro.
You will need to root your device, then you have full access to all macros stored on the device and can modify them.
are you suppose to root your k1, to be able to get orca to connect to the printers?
I believe that's the case. In order to install the necessary software onto the K1, you need to root it, run the python installation sequences for Mainsail/Moonraker/Fluidd as well as install Octoeverywhere. Without rooting it, I don't see how this would be possible. I can't say I completely understand the intricacies behind everything, in essence the printer must be opened up like what you'd see on a Klipper printer in order to be able to have a connection with Orca like on other Klipper printers.
It didn't take long for me to do it, and it is absolutely worth the time, I was also recording a video at the same time, you'd probably be far quicker than I would be.
i just started using orca slicer and it has profiles for the ender 3 v3 ke and i have adjusted the settings to that os the sunlu matte pla filiament i'm using and calibrated it using the built in calibration feature and been getting some good results far better than creality print. my question is however will it get messed up if you root the printer or do you have a video on the pros and cons of rooting it?
Orca is one of the best out there!
As far as the rooting, I have a video on rooting, but not the pros and cons. There aren't many cons, because even if you run into any trouble, you can easily reset your printer, there is a HTML link to reset your printer to factory. I've done it 2 times now just for the sake of making videos and recording the process from scratch.
The only downside I've found so far is that when installing Guppy, a touchscreen interface to replace the stock Creality one, the IP address always shows as 0.0.0.0. and that is not good. It still shows even after several weeks. The only way to find the true IP is to login to your WIFI and see the IP addresses of your devices, that ended up working for me.
I don't believe that there is any impact to rooting from the standpoint of the operation of the printer, the original Creality FW stays intact and we can just access all of the files and add or change macros now. I would say that by using Orca you'll see an improvement on your prints, Orca is just a better slicer.
I'll have a video out soon for the KE, I am just finishing up the design for a solid linear rail setup for it and it should be good!
@@NeedItMakeIt ty
@@marknewsom1377 No problem, I just finished re-assembling my KE with linear rails and it's doing the first print now, seems to be all good, and it's rooted and working well. Printing through Orca wirelessly is really nice.
@@NeedItMakeIt one more question for you what should i go with mainsail or the other one i forget the name of right now
@@marknewsom1377 Sure, well, both do the same function. Mainsail and Fluidd. I like Mainsail better personally, I just prefer the way it looks and how clean and user friendly it is. If I switched to Fluidd it would probably only take me 1/2 an hour to get used to it. Mainsail also allows you to color code your printers, for me that's helpful because I am sometimes looking at 3 printers at the same time and it's just a little help to tell them apart more easily.
I hope that answers your question.
People should consider supporting the guy(s) behind OrcaSlicer. It's easily the best slicer software out there and all the hard work needs to be honorated.
You've got that right! That's people helping people for a good cause, we need to provide support whenever we can.
I'm slightly confused as the last two Creality Print samples looked better than the last two Orca Slicer samples to me. Just details being hidden by the video?
I try to show all of the detail in the videos for everyone to see, I literally show all of the parts on camera close up and I even painted them grey to accentuate any defects. I have extremely bright LED lights, 180 watts each shining from above, to provide harsh lighting.
I agree that the differences are not that noticeable. As far as the surface finish, they're pretty close between slicers, overall the Creality K1 just isn't quite at the level of the Bambu regardless of the slicer being used. But from a ringing side there is quite a bit less. The main take-away here and why I wanted to make the video was that if someone is running Creality print, they should consider trying Orca, I am printing with the K1 constantly now; I was rarely using it prior, it does make a big difference. There are quite a few benefits that I was not able to mention in the video, but I am always make a follow up video to talk about it.
@@NeedItMakeIt Oh I agree the overall production of your video was fantastic and I was actually very impressed you used primer to shown off the defects as a lot of channels won't go that far. I was more asking "Are there details I'm not seeing because they don't translate well on video?" I get what you're saying. I actually plan to try Orca Slicer and your video is part of why.
@@802Garage It's good to get feedback from everyone, sometimes the things that go through my head on what people want to see or need to see aren't even close. I am shooting a video right now to compare, so I am taking your comments and trying to use them in this video. I'll give a little commentary, but also see if I can show some very detailed views from each side as a side by side.
I think when I try to shorten the vids as much as possible it can backfire on occasion and it doesn't do a great job of getting the point across. It's all good, I can do better and I plan on it! Thanks a lot for helping out here. And when you do give Orca a try, let me know how it works for you.
I've been using it since softfever 1. All other slicers need to pack up and go home lol
Wow, so it wasn't quite as feature packed I suppose. I'm curious how he/they did it, I understood that Bambu studio was closed even though it came from an OPEN source. I'm loving it, it really has allowed me to seamlessly run both printers, I'd bet lots of other people can benefit as well.
is the KC not supported? I
cant connect feom orca slicer
Does this slicer have a profile for the Creality Ender 3 V3 SE???
Yes it does, it has one for the KE as well.
Can you print from a usb cable in orca slicer?
I don't think you can do it through the USB cable, you'd want a PI and set it up with a WIFI connection. I just connected my printer via cable to my computer and it doesn't even recognize that the printer is connected at all. I just checked on Creality Print, and even it does not allow a cabled connection, WIFI, or Sonic Pad are the options. Seems a little strange that their own software would not allow this. I'd imagine that there is a way, but it would take a bit of digging. At the prices of the K1, you may consider selling your V2 and getting a K1, there will be more faster and more capable printers coming into the market soon as well to compete, so prices should be good for the consumer.
Orca is amazing, according the feature it offers. But unfortunately, it makes a lot of stringing on my CR6SE, wich is very anoying.
When returning on Cura on the same printer setting, it works without stringing.
I found a CR6SE plugin for Orca but it didn't really resolve the problem.
That's a bit strange, I would expect that it's retraction, but it could also be retraction speed, I can't say I've ever had to play with those settings. If it's the same material and the same printer, there aren't too many other options, there is something in the software affecting those settings.
I still enjoy Cura, unfortunately it doesn't work well with my current printers.
Same here. I can't even get a retraction calibration test to print at any setting that will stop the stringing with PetG
@@2metock PETG can be tough, if you haven't already, dry it out for 12 hours, that's the first and most likely cause. Are you printing on a CoreXY faster printer? PETG performs well with those higher speed printers and fast travels.
Please can you help? My Orca slicer with the latest firmware does not send preview images for printing, what should I do?
Oh, strange, are you sending to Bambu or Creality? Which version of FW are you running so I can check against mine.
I send to the printer k1 creativity version of slicer orka 1.7 mac@@NeedItMakeIt
Okay, I'm running a newer version of Orca, 1.8 and mine was beta, I believe they have a solid version out for 1.8 now, there is a note about fixing some issues with mac, I'd try this first, the setup is fairly simple, the file is a jpg or image file, there isn't much more there. Somehow it's not being communicated to the printer.
I still use CURA half the time, it is better on my older printer on some prints. Love Orca maybe more though, it's exciting for sure.
Still in Beta? I can´t use it in a win 11 pc with Ryzen 5 and RX580 32 ram. freezes every 20 secs. Maybe because I have my own builted 3d printer.
If you don't care about print times, this is the way to go for the Creality K1 and K1 Max AI. I've watched a bunch of videos comparing the slicers and for some reason ORCA slicer prints were slower than Creality and Bambu Studio prints and increasing the speeds didn't net shorter print times.
Probably because in orcaslicer the wallthickness is 3 walls, and in bambu studio its 2, also the layertime on your filament is 8s, on bambu its 4s
There are quite a few little settings that we'd need to go and tweak, even though I've been running both printers from Orca, the settings still aren't identical for each printer. But that's a good test to see if I could go through and make the print times nearly identical for each, with 30 seconds or so would be good. I think it's possible, but then again the settings are ...set that way for a reason, so adjustments to them may end up with a result that's no good. But def. interesting.
Your speed limit is probably the volumetric flow setting. Bump that up if you want your speed settings to take affect.
Of course proper thing to do would be to measure your volumetric flow of your hotend and nozzle size to correctly set it so you won't have underextrusion problems.
I started using orca like a week ago and I'm kicking myself in the ass that I didn't switch sooner
There's no comparison when you compare to Creality Print. Prusa Slicer is still good, personally I prefer Orca, but some people like Prusa more, more power to them. There are quite a few new features and it seems to produce quality prints much faster than Creality Print as well.
If possible to use .8 nozzle in this slicer.I have Ender 3 V2 machine
Yes, I see the profiles for a 0.8 for both Bambu X1 and Creality K1 Printers. You can also take a profile and adjust the nozzle size and save it as a preset for a 0.1 if you'd like to go big.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thanks for your reply
@@venko3211 No problem, I try and get back to everyone, it just might take me a day. I must become better at typing!
@@NeedItMakeIt waiting for .8 nozzle update
The Orca team seem pretty open to the idea of "if someone will find it useful and it does not break anything we will add it" type mentality, even if that means having some functionality on one operating system that isn't on another yet ( my linux version tells me they can fix models on the windows version). I think this is a breath of fresh air, and it is what open source should be... if it does not break user space and it works then add it. As an end user it means each beta version I see more tools added, some of which give me a happy feeling inside. As I use appimages I am not bothered if one breaks something, I can report it and just fire up a version from a month ago.
And to your point, I have several new features in the Beta going right now, and they need a little tweaking, but it's super nice to have the options. Going from an idea to something useable within months rather than years is really nice!
I just tried Orca last week. After all the hype, I wanted to like it. I was excited about the simple interface and control over supports and infill. I even spent a few days on it to give it an honest chance. But....
It was like going back in time two years.
100% of my prints are functional and tend to require precision fits and, you know, actual engineered tolerances. They have mating parts or otherwise interact with other hardware. With Orca it was back to scaling and trial and error games with positive and negative expansion. Or, almost as bad, tweaking the model to get it to print at the correct dimensions.
I printed the same parts in Cura with Slicing Tolerance = Exclusive and everything fit perfectly on the first try.
Until Orca has a way to control how it handles the model's envelope, it's a waste of time for me.
It does have option called precise walls, and you can print outer/inner/outer for precision.
Nothing to add to the title of this video. I changed to Orca because of the K1 wasn't supported by others. And i never regret.
It's still going strong for me as well, it's a pleasure to use, I just need to figure out how to set my printer IP to be static, it seems to want to change a few times a week for some reason. I turn it off because unlike the K1 Max, the printer fan stays on. I've installed Guppy interface now as well, it's also pretty cool, lots of extra features, but I just had a problem where my IP was set to 0.0.0.0 and no access. Luckily I was able to find the actual address through my rogers account, and it was a normal IP.
They need to hurry up and add in a measure tool and the new features from Prusa, the arrange features and cut features specifically and it'll be perfect
Prusa is pushing hard to stay at the top, they have some really cool new features. The SVG feature will come in handy especially if people want to personalize their prints. I have tried it with a complex pattern... on a complex part and they didn't agree, I'm sure it'll be refined more as they go.
Do you think that because PS is open that it is fairly straightforward to pickup those changes in Orca?
What happened to the good old click off youtube ads? These new ones suck.
You promised a link to orca slicer. Where is it?
Thanks for that, the links are there, you can also type into google to find what you need.
There's a big Black Friday deal on bambulab printers. The AMS with P1 enclosed is like $850 😮😮😮😮
I saw that! It looks like Creality has some Crazy deals as well, they've knocked $200 from their K1. I'm just in the process of doing some head to head tests between the Bambu and the Creality to see how far off they are from a quality at high speed perspective. I think the Bambu will take the win, but maybe with Orca slicer on the K1, they won't be far off.
@@NeedItMakeIt micro center's K1 is around $349. I heard the k1 had its growing pains, but it's okay now. A head-to-head will be great!
@@AvocadoAtrocity That's cheaper than on Creality's site! That's for sure, there were quite a few problems, strange that there were so many problems out of the gates. Were they rushing, didn't test their own products it seemed. In any case, they've fixed most of the problems, but I still see some vibrations, the Bambu printers have nearly no visible ringing, and using Orca now with both printers, it's really nice, I can easily switch between printers and print the identical parts as well, just a real treat compared to what I was doing... or really was not doing, I was only using the Bambu. I need an idea for a high speed print which is something people would like to see, any ideas?
I just upgraded from my Prusa Mini to an X1 Carbon with AMS. Couldn't pass up the chance and my Prusa Mini just hasn't been enough lately
Came here to mention the in store microcenter deal but someone beat me to it. If you live near one that has K1 stock still, $349 makes the K1 hard to beat. Even if you play with it and end up wanting a Bambu also, that’s old school printer prices for a high speed core XY.
nice video keep going.
Thanks, I appreciate it! Still loving Orca Slicer.
i love the title
Thanks! I try to come up with original ideas, they don't all work out, but if you keep trying....
I keep saying the same to my kids about my jokes, but they still don't think I'm funny.
I wanted to point out that your IP address, while it's Class C (typically used in home networks), it is not a private address, and could cause issues for you down the road. Class C Private address ranges from 192.168.0.0 to 192.168.255.255. On the video you used the IP address of 192.0.0.156 which is a public IP address, and I assume that since that's the printer IP address, the rest of your network may be using public IP addresses as well.
Hope that helps, have a Happy New Year. :)
They need to adjust A LOT of settings
1:00: That my friend, is called ringing.
It happens when a printer does not have input shape active to compensate the vibrations and prevent it from affecting the printing quality.
I am not surprised K1 has this problem, but so did my unit X1C which I returned to build a Voron instead.
None of those printers allows you to run input shape like A voron does to proper calibrate the vibrations created my the printer.
To minimize that, you will need to slow the printing speed down. Slicer alone cannot make miracles.
EDIT: No, BambuLab don't really have a proper input shape, that is not how it works.
My phone rings, my prints don't :) I don't think people have any clue what's involved in recording a video and memorizing everything they'd like to say, sometimes the words don't come out exactly as we'd like them to.
In any case, I'll do my best to try and use the correct terms in any following videos.
I agree that it's not just the slicer, there are still vibrations related issues on the K1, however, the Bambu is not the same, the prints are always very clean.
I don't run any Voron printers at the moment, but I would like to, I have heard that they are still slightly better than the Bambu. I can't speak to what the Bambu does or does not have as far as the intricacies of the firmware, it does produce excellent results every time with no fussing. I have had a friend test their P1S with my filament and my designs, and the results are also very good. Comparable to the X1C; probably not as good as a Voron, but certainly up there.
I probably should have done more samples to compare both slicers, but in the end, Orca is quite a bit better than Creality print, the speed, the options, the menus, they're all very klunky, and something else strange that I don't have happen at all now is that I would not always be able to connect wirelessly to the printer through Creality Print, very frustrating when you'd like to print, have to refresh, restart the program, restart the printer, disconnect the printer from WIFI, reconnect it. Since upgrading to Orca, I don't have these problems.
Can you shed a bit of light on what 'proper input shaping' is? I'm curious.
I don't like the UI with orca, I hate that some of the settings are tied to the printer vs filament vs part. I just want 1 big long list of settings so I can go down the list and make sure everything is right and be done with it... I can see how it might work if you have like 50 printers running 100 different filaments, but for the average user, that's not the case...
the only real feature I like is being able to just send to klipper by hitting print.
I'd be more apt to use it, if I could pull over my profiles from cura without having to fucking guess which values translate to which setting.
Sure, everyone has their preferences. I also came from Cura, I'm at a point now where I prefer Orca over Cura, originally I also preferred Cura. To each their own. At the moment, I only use Orca it does everything I need and it has quite a lot of new features and some features even Bambu Studio doesn't have like Mouse Ears, and Vertical for setting the seam position. I say do what works for you, each person will have their own set of requirements and not every slicer may do exactly what you want. Thanks your thoughts on this!
pretty uselesws video, you didn't even said what exactly makes the orcasliser so good.
Creality Print is free and works without any issues and has the built-in calibration tests (in fact very similar). Still trying to figure out what the Orca slicer value add is. So far I find that CRP looks a lot cleaner, has seamless integration to print/view via LAN for Creality printers and great profiles. Last but not least. No need to root your printer which is not a default way to go for many. Thanks for the review!
I've used CP quite a bit, it works, and they're slowly developing it, but it's still missing lots of features that the Prusa/Orca Bambu slicers have. It is also quite slow in comparison. It works for the most part, and that's what's most important. I've found that I can get a lot more performance and quite a bit faster prints by default using Orca, and rooting is now is a piece of cake after doing it 5 times. It would make for a good video to compare them as well, so that might be something I can do after I tidy up the ones on the go.
😊Yeah I like u, nice vid
Keep rocking 👍
Thanks!
except no custom printers
Orca Slicer would be good if it handled supports better.
I've had good success with supports myself, I usually go for tree. Today I printed Tree with PETG and they came off perfectly. It was pretty satisfying. Can you tell me a bit about the problem you're having with it?
@@NeedItMakeIt Some of the files I print need rafts and that's the keyword "Rafts" Orca Slicer isn't good at Rafts, I'm having better luck with normal Supports, but Tree Supports are neigh impossible to remove as are rafts when I print them.
@@NightStryke3D I can honestly say that after 5 years of 3d printing nearly every day, I've never used rafts. I'll check it out myself. Strange that something that's been in the slicers for so long wouldn't work well. Do you print with PETG?
@@NeedItMakeIt No, Inland Tough PLA.
@@NightStryke3D Gotcha, I have had a similar problem with one PLA. It would make an interesting video to investigate each support type on the same prints to see which ones come off easiest. From different slicers as well would be a good idea.
NO. Just simple models are totally failing by Orca. Just because a bunch of hacks from Bambu Slicer amplified by bugs in Orca make it not usable.
Just try to print a simple pot with Orca and 0.6 Nozzle. It will create a lot of movements bugs just because nozzle is 0.6. Bambu do not support that. So that's probably a case for a bug.
Aditionall calibrations and web tab included are not a thing if actual slicing is failing.
Oh, wow, I cant say I’ve had a single problem yet, but there is still time I suppose. Which printers are you using? I have the K1 and X1C.
Na. Orca doesn’t have the ender 3 s1 plus
There are so many enders now I can't keep track anymore. Is the Plus the newest Plus, or does it look like an S1? If it's an S1, it would be the same as an Ender 3 V2 settings.
@@NeedItMakeIt the s1 plus is pretty much the pro with a bigger print surface
Orca suuuuucccccckkksssss
I guess we have a difference of opinion, I only use Orca and I love it. I switch between 6 printers with 3 different brands. We all have different needs and I respect that. For me at least it is the opposite of suck.
No Orca Slicer is far from being the best slicer. Orca Slicer is still missing a bunch of important stuff compare to Prusa or Super Slicer. The biggest one is missing the Printer Dependencies settings. This alone makes Orca almost useless for a pro user! You can not assign and manage printer profiles besides system presets. And even the system presets can only be assigned via a copy save. Another thing is the missing manifold edges fix under Linux.
Everyone has their preference and features they need and like. Personally I find Prusa far more clunky to use, but it is feature rich. So is Orca though, and there are always new features being added. I've never used Manifold and with a good printer like the QIDI and the X1C, the results speak for themselves. As far as presets, I switch between 6 different printers and 3 different brands, within Orca, it's never been a problem for me and I print all day every day. I guess everyone has their own definition of what a pro user is.
@@NeedItMakeIt I'm not talking about user preferences or features here. Orca has plenty good features. I'm talking about major missing settings in Orca Slicer! But seriously....How can someone be a "pro user" without setting printer dependencies and assigning them to profiles? ;)
@@Gigaloader I guess we have different definitions of pro user then, I don't find what you're referring to is necessary, you do, that's cool. I'll just have to go back and check the definition of pro user again. I don't think it's defined by the capabilities of your slicer, quite the contrary in fact. As the sayin goes... a poor craftsman blames his tools.
@@NeedItMakeItWell....I would define a "pro user" as someone who goes beyond printer profiles given by orca or bambu. Someone who creates his own. These have to be assigned properly. You can't do that with Orca as it is limited to the existing printers Orca gives you. At least they do have a lot of them tho. But if you have your own printer build, Orca is a no go. Hopefully it will come in the future. Just pointing out that Orca only seems to be "better" until you have to set up and configure a printer profile.
@@Gigaloader LOL. A pro user is anyone that 3D prints professionally, that's the most basic and accurate definition. Just to get back to the point, Prusa is good so is Orca, they both work well, Prusa works better for you, since you're at an advanced level and you need the slicer to do particular things for you that other slicers do not. All good, have a good one.
Weak you printed it in white so we can see nothing
Sorry... I have a very low budget. I've received some new colored filament and we should see that in any new videos.
Because you don't know how to configure a custom printer on prusa/super slicer that it's bad?
I've used it on and off over the past 5 years, it has some great features, but I've found it far more clunky to use than Bambu Studio and subsequently Orca. I don't believe I said Prusa was bad, I was just not able to get it to work well with the K1, and Orca changed all of that, and if anyone else has a K1, they should do the same IMO, especially if they also have a Bambu printer. It's absolutely seamless to swap between printers. Have you given Orca a try yourself?
Awful. Ruined my prints simple as
Tried it today, AWFUL SLICER! with the same settings it extended my print time almost 2X!!! Got me awful results, stringing, bad adhesion, awful accuracy... Went back to Cura and couldn't be happier!
Do you mind providing which printer you have? It is possible that Orca doesn't work well with some printers... yet. It's good to get feedback like this there's no way that I can test every printer, I need help from everyone to fill in the blanks. I appreciate your help on this.
@@NeedItMakeIt No problem at all! I use Elegoo Neptune 3 PRO, trust me I wanted to like Orca, it has some really cool features. I tried my best to make it work, but nothing I've tried worked... Not sure why.
@@NeedItMakeItit's just some generic gcode for every 3D printer.
Thing is, his profile was totally wrong. But that's not the slicer.
I believe orca is a fork of a fork of fork made specifically for Bambu printers because Bambu version lacks lots of good settings, just use the slicer that gets you the best quality, I've used prusaslicer 90% of the time
copy flow, retraction, temperature, speed, acceleration etc settings
Misleading title. You claimed Orca is better slicer for K1. Waste of 8 minutes.
Yeah maybe include in the title, Orca with a K1 as that is what the vid is primarily about. Is Orca really the best, not if you don't have profiles for it. Go in a do a setup for a CR-10 SE. You will find yourself in *.json hell . One might say just use the settings from the factory setup, yeah right. Nothing in between all the slicer flavors out are remotely named or defined the same. Do they mean the 5000 number or the 8000 number, maybe its the 600 number but the 300 number might be safer, but one entry is at 20000 and I didn't even know it could go that fast. To be the best it might have a better pathway to bring in the proper machine specs that are known good. From here I could concentrate on learning ORCA and best filament settings to use. Is it really better, is it really? I think it needs more time in the oven.
That's a good point, and I appreciate the feedback. I'm working on growing the amount and type of printers I run, which helps with these things. As far as your printer, yeah, community based setups can be tough, and there are a lot of variables when it comes down to it. I'm not sure there is any one answer to this issue with any slicer. I suppose to steal the settings from a slicer that you use and try to make them work in Orca. I'm still only using Orca, and it's all wireless, it's been a huge benefit to me, and the hope was that it would be for others as well.