Just bought my wife a Creality Ender 3 V3 KE for her birthday. I've been studying up to help her figure more out about it and ran across your channel. Thanks for breaking this stuff down to make it easier to understand! I'm subbing your channel and sending her your vids to help her out.
As someone who’s used Cura since 2020 and had to slice up my files in Meshmixer and my brothers pc sometimes crashing when cutting up files, to be able to have multiple build plates, an intuitive UI and the projects option that actually works, my jaw dropped, you have convinced me to switch from cura to orca. This will save me hours of work in slicing files especially when printing my helmet and props that sometimes have up to 70 parts, I recently printed a Halo Wars 2 M99 Stanchion sniper rifle that was 49 inches long. Oh and I forgot, having the drop down menu of all of your printers with nozzle options automatically and bed setting is a game changer because in cura my brother switched my glass bed to my magnetic bed settings and ruined both the build plate and nozzle and nozzle 0-0
I love Orca Slicer. One thing that took me a few months to notice, was you can auto-arrange individual build plates by clicking the icon next to that plate, and you don't have to auto arrange everything, since that will move parts to other plates
A very interesting setting, for instance when printing with PETG, or just when you are looking to minimise stringing, is "Avoid crossing walls". Can be useful if printing a visual piece, but struggling with too much stringing. Edit: Congrats on the 1 mil btw!
So I just bought a used K1 a few days ago and this video really helped me get it attached to Orca. Thank you very much Frank. I'd also like to mention that you can find the IP address of the K series in Creality Cloud as well. So you don't really need their slicer software. As long as you have the app on your phone, and your printer is linked to your WiFi and the app. Everything you need is right there for Orca.
OrcaSlicer is great. You can hook up any Klipper firmware based printer(Neptune 4 series, Ender 3 v3 KE, Vorons, Creality K1 series, etc.) As Frank showed you just enter the IP of the device and you're good to go, the other step is getting your printer's API key, if the web interface your printer has isn't locked down you should be able to generate an API key in the settings tab/page and then enter that in the API Key field when adding your printer. Then you should be able to upload directly to the printer. Not sure the K1 series allows it as they seem to run a custom web interface but I'm sure it's in there somewhere 😅
@@AndrewAHayes late reply but yes. Klipper and OctoPrint use a similar API key system. Not sure if you can start a print directly when using Orca+OctoPrint, but I know you can upload via that method.
Thank you Frank for your video. I find your way of explaining and going through things is just like me. I have been thinking of switching to this program for a while just waiting for someone easy to explain it. Thanks Frank have a good holiday
If you are not good modeling or cutting STL files in other programs, like fusion 360. Orca slicer allows you to cut the print and even add connectors, so it will be easier for you the put them together later. 5:25
Great Video Frank! You got me into 3d printing 2 years ago and I don't regret it for even a second. I recently purchased a Neptune 4 plus for bigger prints such as helmets and props. I already downloaded Orca Slicer and it is so much better than Cura or Prusa. Thank you for the recommendation and all your helpful videos!
Rooting your Creality printer makes a lot more sense if you are using Orca Slicer. Since I rooted both my V3 KE, and use Orca, I have seen a big improvements on the print qualities. Another advantage to root is the ability to permanantly set the Z-axis offset on the printer itself. Before rooting, I had to manually adjust the z-axis in the slicer or on the printer it self before each print. Good video!
Frank, have you thought about doing a series of how-to in depth for Bambu or Orca slicer. These top level overviews are great but going through each button. Calibrating filaments, etc..love these vids. I finally pulled the trigger and bought a X1C.
thanks for this video! I just got my first 3d printer, (Neptune 4 Max, thanks to your review) and from Uncle Jessie's recommendation, I started with OrcaSlicer. I couldn't be more happy.
Thank You for this. I will be using this with my Neptune 3 Max. I am very appreciative of you especially as you are the one who convinced me to try out 3D printing in the first place. Thanks again and be strong
May not be relevant to many but I have just come across orca and decided to give it a go. I only have one printer, a Sovol SV02 which is controlled by Octoprint. I was able to add the printer by giving it the IP address of the Raspberry Pi and can now control my printer inside of orca rather than having to open a browser instance.
Thank you, thank you. I bought an Ender3 V3 KE and wanted to use Orca Slicer wirelessly from my home computer. Spent most of the day seeing videos saying I needed Octopi, Raspberry pi etc. etc. Just tried your trick with just the IP address then Import the file and it works like a charm!!!
Thank you for the video, I was on the fence about changing programs, but you convinced me to make the change, especially since I just ordered my second printer. Thank you again for the video and all your other great videos!!
Frank, just as an aside, I'm 99% sure that the IP addresses of your printers are "Network Address Translation (NAT). Meaning the internal IP addresses your router assigns are generic and no one outside your house can access them.
Just a heads up your ip is clearly visible for a frame in the video and anyone could easily look up where you live. I did it and so many other people can so please fix the video
@@coolds3970 It doesn't matter since these are internal IP addresses, meaning unless you're connected to his network, you can't do shit with that info (heck, most people probably have devices on their home networks with the exact same IPs..... in fact, I do).
I am so new to all of this 3D printing. I love watching your videos and I am eager to learn. Thanks for your honest opinion on the Orca Slicer. I am wanting to learn how to design my own ideas and be able to print them out. I cannot wait until your next video.
Man, for a second I was so excited, I thought you were going to show how to get upload to work on the K1 Max! lol I was on the edge of my seat and then you said to export and I was so sad. Thanks for the video though!
About setting the speed, don't forget to set the correct *Max Volumetric Speed* for your filament. An incorrect or too low value will lower the actual print speed, no matter how high you set it in the Speed tab.
I am new to 3D printing. I have a K1 and am using the Creality Slicer. Your video has encouraged me to try Orca slicer. Maybe you could do an indepth video on the calibration within Orca. I am not sure how to tune my K1 so I get the best quality print possible from it.
Hey man! I just got everything to work with printing straight up from orca with the k1 max. It works beautifully and flawlessly once rooted, just don't forget to update new ip address with the additional fluidd or mainsail number at the end :)
Thank you for this. the speed was an issue for me, and this helped a lot. Quality wise, this slicer is giving me significantly better prints than Cura!
Thanks alot. Just started out with my first prints with the neptune 3 plus. Budha is going so far so good so pretty stoked! Sliced the next print with the help off this video ty again!
I just started using orca today coming from cura. was really impressed on first impression. setup was easy did not take any special tuning and still got better print result than my well tuned cura profile :D. And i was also totally lost as to how to increase speed. I just copied my speeds from cura(generated from a base speed) as it was for each property then tuned from that. I specially liked the scarf joint seam feature.
Thank you so very much, this has definitely helped me get away from the latest Cura format that falls way short now than the older versions especially custom supports did not upgrade to their newer format.
Frank man I been printing about a year I was using cura. I just started using orca man it’s so much better so many options game changer. Thanks for vid. I’m a v400/qidi plus 4 user
I literally just downloaded this the other day for the multi bed feature. I wanted it to add all the project filament weight at once but didn’t know how. Thanks for the help lol
You don't need to blur your internal network IP's. The Modem IP address is the one you need to blur. And I bet 98 % of people don't know where to find this. Maybe 80%. But I will try Orca Slicer, because I trust you.
Cloning is also very simple. Right click the object and select clone and tell it how many more you want to add. Then with all selected you can hit the auto arrange button and it will arrange them all nicely on the build plate.
my biggest issues started with orca slicer, ended up with moveing to mirco swiss, new bed etc :) then orca was insane! cr-10 smart. new issue arrived! supports, mostly the distance, as the buttom of the object is messy :( like your videos and guides overall! keep it up!
Been playing around with Orca myself but then had printer problems LOL Life of a nerd with a 3d printer :) Anyway in this holiday season I just want to say THANK YOU for your service and for your awesome videos, can't wait to see what 2024 brings!!!!
Nice overview! Testing out the slicer now. I've been using a BeaglcCam to remote access my Ender 3 v2. I was able to connect that interface to Orca the same way you connected your K1/Max. Can't fully send files to the cam via Orca, but saving the file and using the device interface to upload the file works just the same.
I'd love it if you could do a video on calibrating the speed of the Bambu X1C or P1S to improve print quality. This is where I've been struggling because I'm just not sure how to stabilize the print quality of my new Bambu X1C. I keep getting prints with messy outer walls. Also a video on reducing waste on multi material prints.
I’d love to see a video on orientation with several types of model types. It’s difficult many time to figure out how to get a good print when you have models that are detailed or shaped funny with weird edges etc. Also, I would like to understand the new features in Bambu studio where you can do dovetail cuts and pin connectors etc.. I would like to understand of you can make several cuts at once in a model also.
Hey great video very informative, I have a question about moving around the objects as sometimes I get off centre and its really hard to get the objects in the centre of the computer again?
Thanks for the info, I have a X1C and some Creality printers too. I have logged into the Bambu account and can monitor as well as send files to my X1C. I have not figured out the CR-10 Smart Pro and really dislike the Creality Slicer and Cloud thus I'm using the SD card to print on those printers and know there's a way to wirelessly connect and print to these printers. If I get the Sonic Pad that would add Klipper to the CR-10s and am wondering if that would let me use the Orca slicer to connect to these printers?
Does it support well IDEX printers ? I means specifying which tool print what, put an extruder in standby temperature when the other print and bringing it up to temp in time ?
Since you are the only one showing these things while using the same printer, I have a question. I’m using the k1 max with orca. I am not using multiple filaments on 1 print, but how do you change filaments in orca if I start using a different brand than Creality? The drop down only has Creality. I tried adding a new one but it didn’t seem to want to work so I’m a little lost. I’m trying not to mess up the settings I have. Most of the videos I found are how to set up points for switching colors mid print. Not how to use a different brand and have its settings automatically load in to your current printer. I only have 1 k1 max
I'm quite new to this, and started learning with Cura, however I feel that I'm getting much better prints and once I know somewhat my way around Orca is just better.
what's a video you recommend on how to import models and just a really slow and BASIC training on orca I just got a Neptune 3 max and I have done the test print and it has sat on the shelf until now (was waiting to get a laptop) so what do I do on just how to get a model for a start
I used it when it first came out and I didn't like it, but man the community is loving it so I guess I give it a new chance. Thanks for the vid Frank.... you are the man!
def need more info on getting the k1 to print directly. sounds like that api key is the ticket. changing nothing but the slicer alone gave me better results on my k1. very new to 3dp still so learning as i go!
Frank I see you have a lot of K1 Max's I've heard of issues with nozzles clogging any tips if I were to get one? Need a bigger form factor because I have a big head for helmets 😂
loving orca, but we have been for months trying to find a Neptune 3 max 0.6 and 0.8mm profile but have had zero luck, keep getting referred to uncle jessi and signed up to his patron to see he doesn't have the profile yet it is implied he does before you sign up... Is the neptune 3 an issue with a 0.6mm ? is this why i am struggling to find anything ?
I've used the Cura slicer for years. One thing that helps with some prints (such as the famous octopus) is to have z-hop enabled but it's only effective on the first 2-3 layers. Can this be set to use z-hop on the first layers?
If you are using private ip address space for your printers there's little reason to obfuscate them. They can't be accessed from the internet anyway. Thanks for the introduction, considering start using orcaslicer for my own first 3d printer that I'm getting soon. I would be interested in comparison between features of the main slicers available, when it comes to print quality and other main features. Does Cura that I have been using n the past get these same features at some point etc.
I am loving your videos and your enthusiasm! It is so contagious! Thank you. So with ORCA, since I am an extreme beginner, you mentioned that ORCA does cutting, does that then eliminate the need for MeshMixer or is MeshMixer a better way to cut an object that does no fit the build volume? Thank you!
Im in the same boat! the overhang angle for supports is calculated in a different way in Orca also, in Cura I auto supported overhangs above 57 degrees but I cant figure out what the equivalent setting in Orca is.
I like the idea of Orca Slicer but I'm brand new to 3D printing and the JG maker R1 doesn't have a profile, I'm sure over time ill learn to make but still
I see a ton of videos from people who have a bunch of printers from different companies. I can't afford that so planning to get my first one. I am STRONGLY leaning towards a Bamboo. It sounds like the perfect "first" printer for someone like me. It appears to just "work" right out of the box without a lot of fiddling. Since this Orca slicer appears to be the same as what comes with a Bamboo printer am I making the right decision?
so i have to get a new printer my k1 max died ebay spichal but i plan to get a new one from crility your cids are great and your community is great i have ben inspired by you to do my metroid pirme 3 samsus light suit or vara suite havent decided yet cant wait to do this
So I just got my Creality K1C and I have been using the Creality Slicer (v5.1.7). Now I downloaded Orca slicer (v2.2.0) but it feels like a mess. Creality Slicer has a nice and clean UI in my opinion. Anyway, I tried to slice the same part in Orca that I was going to print. About 10 min longer print time using Orca compared to Creality Slicer on a ~2 hour print. But I could not print it using Orca because it found some "cantilever" stuff and refused to upload it. Prints fine using Creality Slicer
@@FranklyBuilt Well yeah... the physical texture of the bed will change what the print looks like on the bottom, but i mean, what does it do in the slicing software when you select a different bed? Maybe does nothing? Ill play with it! For sure going to give this slicer a try!
@@punchycreations You would be notified that you had the wrong bed fitted if you tried to print say ABS on the cool plate as the temperature is too high, In the case of the X1C
Hey Frank. Thanks so much for another great video! I do have one question. I have a Creality CR-30 and for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to get that printer loaded into Orca. Have you put your Print Mill into Orca yet or are you still using Creality Slicer? If you have put it into Orca, could you point me in the right direction in figuring out how to do that? Thank you again for all you do.
Hi Frank. I just bought a Creality K1, it’s got all the problems in the first couple of releases fixed, it has a sticker on the inside bottom, giving you all the types of filaments and the settings you should be using, speed, bed temperature, nozzle temperature etc. thank you for this video 😊. Is Orca Slicer free? As Creality print doesn’t seem to allow for different types of support structures, also if I want to rotate the model with the supports, they turn off, or removed. Thank you again, have a great new year. Gary
Just bought my wife a Creality Ender 3 V3 KE for her birthday. I've been studying up to help her figure more out about it and ran across your channel. Thanks for breaking this stuff down to make it easier to understand! I'm subbing your channel and sending her your vids to help her out.
As someone who’s used Cura since 2020 and had to slice up my files in Meshmixer and my brothers pc sometimes crashing when cutting up files, to be able to have multiple build plates, an intuitive UI and the projects option that actually works, my jaw dropped, you have convinced me to switch from cura to orca. This will save me hours of work in slicing files especially when printing my helmet and props that sometimes have up to 70 parts, I recently printed a Halo Wars 2 M99 Stanchion sniper rifle that was 49 inches long. Oh and I forgot, having the drop down menu of all of your printers with nozzle options automatically and bed setting is a game changer because in cura my brother switched my glass bed to my magnetic bed settings and ruined both the build plate and nozzle and nozzle 0-0
I love Orca Slicer. One thing that took me a few months to notice, was you can auto-arrange individual build plates by clicking the icon next to that plate, and you don't have to auto arrange everything, since that will move parts to other plates
A very interesting setting, for instance when printing with PETG, or just when you are looking to minimise stringing, is "Avoid crossing walls". Can be useful if printing a visual piece, but struggling with too much stringing.
Edit: Congrats on the 1 mil btw!
Connecting directly to the K1 is awesome. I just got mine today and I'm already printing thanks to several of your vids. Thanks man!
Bro u been a life saver. I drive with your vids playing and then when I get home I hop on my slicer and stuff seem so easier to do thanks !
So I just bought a used K1 a few days ago and this video really helped me get it attached to Orca. Thank you very much Frank. I'd also like to mention that you can find the IP address of the K series in Creality Cloud as well. So you don't really need their slicer software. As long as you have the app on your phone, and your printer is linked to your WiFi and the app. Everything you need is right there for Orca.
OrcaSlicer is great. You can hook up any Klipper firmware based printer(Neptune 4 series, Ender 3 v3 KE, Vorons, Creality K1 series, etc.) As Frank showed you just enter the IP of the device and you're good to go, the other step is getting your printer's API key, if the web interface your printer has isn't locked down you should be able to generate an API key in the settings tab/page and then enter that in the API Key field when adding your printer. Then you should be able to upload directly to the printer. Not sure the K1 series allows it as they seem to run a custom web interface but I'm sure it's in there somewhere 😅
Can you use the API key of a printer that is hooked up to Octoprint to send a file from Orca?
@@AndrewAHayes late reply but yes. Klipper and OctoPrint use a similar API key system. Not sure if you can start a print directly when using Orca+OctoPrint, but I know you can upload via that method.
Been watching for years and finally grew the "coughing" to take the plunge now have a Neptune 3 plus on its way thanks for making this approachable
I got a K1 Max yesterday, and I knew I could get a little more speed out if it. This should help a lot. Thanks.
This was super helpful! I've been using Orca for the past few weeks, and I pulled a few tidbits about it out of this video that'll help a lot.
Thank you Frank for your video. I find your way of explaining and going through things is just like me. I have been thinking of switching to this program for a while just waiting for someone easy to explain it. Thanks Frank have a good holiday
If you are not good modeling or cutting STL files in other programs, like fusion 360. Orca slicer allows you to cut the print and even add connectors, so it will be easier for you the put them together later. 5:25
Great Video Frank! You got me into 3d printing 2 years ago and I don't regret it for even a second. I recently purchased a Neptune 4 plus for bigger prints such as helmets and props. I already downloaded Orca Slicer and it is so much better than Cura or Prusa. Thank you for the recommendation and all your helpful videos!
Rooting your Creality printer makes a lot more sense if you are using Orca Slicer.
Since I rooted both my V3 KE, and use Orca, I have seen a big improvements on the print qualities.
Another advantage to root is the ability to permanantly set the Z-axis offset on the printer itself. Before rooting, I had to manually adjust the z-axis in the slicer or on the printer it self before each print.
Good video!
Frank, have you thought about doing a series of how-to in depth for Bambu or Orca slicer. These top level overviews are great but going through each button. Calibrating filaments, etc..love these vids. I finally pulled the trigger and bought a X1C.
thanks for this video! I just got my first 3d printer, (Neptune 4 Max, thanks to your review) and from Uncle Jessie's recommendation, I started with OrcaSlicer. I couldn't be more happy.
Thank You for this. I will be using this with my Neptune 3 Max. I am very appreciative of you especially as you are the one who convinced me to try out 3D printing in the first place.
Thanks again and be strong
May not be relevant to many but I have just come across orca and decided to give it a go. I only have one printer, a Sovol SV02 which is controlled by Octoprint. I was able to add the printer by giving it the IP address of the Raspberry Pi and can now control my printer inside of orca rather than having to open a browser instance.
Thank you, thank you. I bought an Ender3 V3 KE and wanted to use Orca Slicer wirelessly from my home computer. Spent most of the day seeing videos saying I needed Octopi, Raspberry pi etc. etc. Just tried your trick with just the IP address then Import the file and it works like a charm!!!
I just finished building my new printer yesterday, so I've decided to give Orca a whirl. This was helpful!
Thank you for the video, I was on the fence about changing programs, but you convinced me to make the change, especially since I just ordered my second printer. Thank you again for the video and all your other great videos!!
Frank, just as an aside, I'm 99% sure that the IP addresses of your printers are "Network Address Translation (NAT). Meaning the internal IP addresses your router assigns are generic and no one outside your house can access them.
Just a heads up your ip is clearly visible for a frame in the video and anyone could easily look up where you live. I did it and so many other people can so please fix the video
@@coolds3970 It doesn't matter since these are internal IP addresses, meaning unless you're connected to his network, you can't do shit with that info (heck, most people probably have devices on their home networks with the exact same IPs..... in fact, I do).
I am so new to all of this 3D printing. I love watching your videos and I am eager to learn. Thanks for your honest opinion on the Orca Slicer. I am wanting to learn how to design my own ideas and be able to print them out. I cannot wait until your next video.
I was literally just thinking about getting orca- coming from Cura I’ve heard so much good stuff about orca, can’t wait to watch this !
Same lol
Man, for a second I was so excited, I thought you were going to show how to get upload to work on the K1 Max! lol I was on the edge of my seat and then you said to export and I was so sad. Thanks for the video though!
I just got a Bambu Lab A1.... my girlfriend already hates Frank 😂 She hears his voice constantly. Thanks for the videos bro.
As always Frank delivers and shows he is a boss.
This was great!!! Very detailed explanation and overview without being overcomplicated. Thanks Frank.
Let’s go bro I waited for this a very long time
About setting the speed, don't forget to set the correct *Max Volumetric Speed* for your filament. An incorrect or too low value will lower the actual print speed, no matter how high you set it in the Speed tab.
Hi just wondering if you could tell me what the max volumetric speed setting is please. Thanks x
Arachne was a greek mythology figure who challenged the goddess Athena to a weaving contest. Its the spider sounding pronunciation.
Thanks for the video, I have now switched to Orca thanks to you!
this is such a great video to know for people especially for people like me who are getting a 3d printer for Christmas. U the man Frank 🙂
I am new to 3D printing. I have a K1 and am using the Creality Slicer. Your video has encouraged me to try Orca slicer. Maybe you could do an indepth video on the calibration within Orca. I am not sure how to tune my K1 so I get the best quality print possible from it.
Thank you for this video! I’ve been trying to learn Orca and this was super helpful!
Hey man! I just got everything to work with printing straight up from orca with the k1 max. It works beautifully and flawlessly once rooted, just don't forget to update new ip address with the additional fluidd or mainsail number at the end :)
Thank you for this. the speed was an issue for me, and this helped a lot. Quality wise, this slicer is giving me significantly better prints than Cura!
JFC this video helped me to much....thank you. The exclude object @19:08 is so useful, and I had no idea about it.
A master of his craft. Thank you as always for sharing and teaching.
Thanks alot. Just started out with my first prints with the neptune 3 plus. Budha is going so far so good so pretty stoked! Sliced the next print with the help off this video ty again!
I just started using orca today coming from cura. was really impressed on first impression. setup was easy did not take any special tuning and still got better print result than my well tuned cura profile :D. And i was also totally lost as to how to increase speed. I just copied my speeds from cura(generated from a base speed) as it was for each property then tuned from that.
I specially liked the scarf joint seam feature.
Windows is giving me a warning when opening the file. Did you get one?
Painting “out” supports all by itself made watching this video worth it. Thanks
Yo my man, this helped out a ton! Extremely helpful.
Thank you so very much, this has definitely helped me get away from the latest Cura format that falls way short now than the older versions especially custom supports did not upgrade to their newer format.
I started with Orca, I love it so far!
thank you so much for this!! this is the first time tree support worked for me !!!!🤩🤩🤩
Frank man I been printing about a year I was using cura. I just started using orca man it’s so much better so many options game changer. Thanks for vid. I’m a v400/qidi plus 4 user
I literally just downloaded this the other day for the multi bed feature. I wanted it to add all the project filament weight at once but didn’t know how. Thanks for the help lol
Thanks man saved my life showing this program when ya did ha cheers
You don't need to blur your internal network IP's. The Modem IP address is the one you need to blur. And I bet 98 % of people don't know where to find this. Maybe 80%. But I will try Orca Slicer, because I trust you.
Cloning is also very simple. Right click the object and select clone and tell it how many more you want to add. Then with all selected you can hit the auto arrange button and it will arrange them all nicely on the build plate.
my biggest issues started with orca slicer, ended up with moveing to mirco swiss, new bed etc :) then orca was insane! cr-10 smart.
new issue arrived! supports, mostly the distance, as the buttom of the object is messy :(
like your videos and guides overall! keep it up!
also no cr-10 smart printer selection :( hardly any old printers
I finally figured out block supports! Thanks!
Thanks Frank keep up the great work mate i look forward to your videos.
definitely giving it shot very cool features...adding walls for strength on sword props...very cool tip thanx man
Been playing around with Orca myself but then had printer problems LOL Life of a nerd with a 3d printer :) Anyway in this holiday season I just want to say THANK YOU for your service and for your awesome videos, can't wait to see what 2024 brings!!!!
Good day when frankly built uploads
Nice overview! Testing out the slicer now. I've been using a BeaglcCam to remote access my Ender 3 v2. I was able to connect that interface to Orca the same way you connected your K1/Max. Can't fully send files to the cam via Orca, but saving the file and using the device interface to upload the file works just the same.
I'd love it if you could do a video on calibrating the speed of the Bambu X1C or P1S to improve print quality. This is where I've been struggling because I'm just not sure how to stabilize the print quality of my new Bambu X1C. I keep getting prints with messy outer walls. Also a video on reducing waste on multi material prints.
I’d love to see a video on orientation with several types of model types. It’s difficult many time to figure out how to get a good print when you have models that are detailed or shaped funny with weird edges etc. Also, I would like to understand the new features in Bambu studio where you can do dovetail cuts and pin connectors etc.. I would like to understand of you can make several cuts at once in a model also.
Hey great video very informative, I have a question about moving around the objects as sometimes I get off centre and its really hard to get the objects in the centre of the computer again?
`frank you left out , no` 😂😂
Thanks for the info, I have a X1C and some Creality printers too. I have logged into the Bambu account and can monitor as well as send files to my X1C. I have not figured out the CR-10 Smart Pro and really dislike the Creality Slicer and Cloud thus I'm using the SD card to print on those printers and know there's a way to wirelessly connect and print to these printers. If I get the Sonic Pad that would add Klipper to the CR-10s and am wondering if that would let me use the Orca slicer to connect to these printers?
Does it support well IDEX printers ? I means specifying which tool print what, put an extruder in standby temperature when the other print and bringing it up to temp in time ?
Since you are the only one showing these things while using the same printer, I have a question. I’m using the k1 max with orca. I am not using multiple filaments on 1 print, but how do you change filaments in orca if I start using a different brand than Creality? The drop down only has Creality. I tried adding a new one but it didn’t seem to want to work so I’m a little lost. I’m trying not to mess up the settings I have. Most of the videos I found are how to set up points for switching colors mid print. Not how to use a different brand and have its settings automatically load in to your current printer. I only have 1 k1 max
I'm quite new to this, and started learning with Cura, however I feel that I'm getting much better prints and once I know somewhat my way around Orca is just better.
Hey Frank, do you know when they gonna add a profile for the Creality CR-M4? Or do you have a custom profile to used Orca Slicer?
Just use the cr-10 max profile
Is that what you used? Do you get any type of strings on prints?.
what's a video you recommend on how to import models and just a really slow and BASIC training on orca I just got a Neptune 3 max and I have done the test print and it has sat on the shelf until now (was waiting to get a laptop) so what do I do on just how to get a model for a start
Orca is powerful and all in one !
Good video man! I didn’t even know Orca was an option for my X1C! I just downloaded it!
i`m using these settings right now on my first helmet ever . deadpool . thanks 😁👌
Litterly just got my neptune cus you.. and now this video comes out perfect timing.
Loved this video. Def going to be downloading this program.
Nice, Happy Christmas from Norway :)
I used it when it first came out and I didn't like it, but man the community is loving it so I guess I give it a new chance. Thanks for the vid Frank.... you are the man!
Side note with supports if you paint red and select auto it'll put supports everyone except where you didn't want them.
DUDE DARK MODE PLLLEEEAAASSSEE!!! Great info btw :))
def need more info on getting the k1 to print directly. sounds like that api key is the ticket. changing nothing but the slicer alone gave me better results on my k1. very new to 3dp still so learning as i go!
Frank I see you have a lot of K1 Max's I've heard of issues with nozzles clogging any tips if I were to get one? Need a bigger form factor because I have a big head for helmets 😂
loving orca, but we have been for months trying to find a Neptune 3 max 0.6 and 0.8mm profile but have had zero luck, keep getting referred to uncle jessi and signed up to his patron to see he doesn't have the profile yet it is implied he does before you sign up... Is the neptune 3 an issue with a 0.6mm ? is this why i am struggling to find anything ?
Just wanted to say thank you.
Arachne (Αράχνη) is the greek word for spider 😉 Great Tutorial !! I didn't knew that Bambu studio was based on Orca slicer
It isnt, Orca is a fork of Bambu Studio.
I've used the Cura slicer for years. One thing that helps with some prints (such as the famous octopus) is to have z-hop enabled but it's only effective on the first 2-3 layers. Can this be set to use z-hop on the first layers?
If you are using private ip address space for your printers there's little reason to obfuscate them. They can't be accessed from the internet anyway.
Thanks for the introduction, considering start using orcaslicer for my own first 3d printer that I'm getting soon.
I would be interested in comparison between features of the main slicers available, when it comes to print quality and other main features. Does Cura that I have been using n the past get these same features at some point etc.
This slicer has every feature. Not really a point to compare it with the old ones
I am loving your videos and your enthusiasm! It is so contagious! Thank you. So with ORCA, since I am an extreme beginner, you mentioned that ORCA does cutting, does that then eliminate the need for MeshMixer or is MeshMixer a better way to cut an object that does no fit the build volume? Thank you!
If you only have Bambu printers, does it make sense to move to Orca over Bambu Studio? What features do you lose/gain moving over to Orca?
Honestly nah
Thank you, great vid. Taught me lots!
Could you, or have you done an Indepth video on the extra files needed to send prints to the K1max without having to do the round about method?
One thing I love about cura is the support density setting. Does orca allow you to controll support density too?
Im in the same boat! the overhang angle for supports is calculated in a different way in Orca also, in Cura I auto supported overhangs above 57 degrees but I cant figure out what the equivalent setting in Orca is.
Very helpful! Thank you so much! Subscribed.
I like the idea of Orca Slicer but I'm brand new to 3D printing and the JG maker R1 doesn't have a profile, I'm sure over time ill learn to make but still
I see a ton of videos from people who have a bunch of printers from different companies. I can't afford that so planning to get my first one. I am STRONGLY leaning towards a Bamboo. It sounds like the perfect "first" printer for someone like me. It appears to just "work" right out of the box without a lot of fiddling. Since this Orca slicer appears to be the same as what comes with a Bamboo printer am I making the right decision?
so i have to get a new printer my k1 max died ebay spichal but i plan to get a new one from crility your cids are great and your community is great i have ben inspired by you to do my metroid pirme 3 samsus light suit or vara suite havent decided yet cant wait to do this
Anyway to get your k1 max settings I just got mine I want to make sure it prints well I’m new to the hobby . Coming from a m5
So I just got my Creality K1C and I have been using the Creality Slicer (v5.1.7). Now I downloaded Orca slicer (v2.2.0) but it feels like a mess. Creality Slicer has a nice and clean UI in my opinion. Anyway, I tried to slice the same part in Orca that I was going to print. About 10 min longer print time using Orca compared to Creality Slicer on a ~2 hour print. But I could not print it using Orca because it found some "cantilever" stuff and refused to upload it. Prints fine using Creality Slicer
What does a different bed type do exactly? does it adjust initial height of nossle? or maybe higher/lower flow rate?
It’s a different texture
@@FranklyBuilt Well yeah... the physical texture of the bed will change what the print looks like on the bottom, but i mean, what does it do in the slicing software when you select a different bed? Maybe does nothing? Ill play with it! For sure going to give this slicer a try!
@@FranklyBuilt also uses higher bed temperatures in the case of the engineering plate and PEI/PEY plate
@@punchycreations You would be notified that you had the wrong bed fitted if you tried to print say ABS on the cool plate as the temperature is too high, In the case of the X1C
Do we need also to have high end laptop or PC?
Hey Frank. Thanks so much for another great video! I do have one question. I have a Creality CR-30 and for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to get that printer loaded into Orca. Have you put your Print Mill into Orca yet or are you still using Creality Slicer? If you have put it into Orca, could you point me in the right direction in figuring out how to do that? Thank you again for all you do.
Hi Frank. I just bought a Creality K1, it’s got all the problems in the first couple of releases fixed, it has a sticker on the inside bottom, giving you all the types of filaments and the settings you should be using, speed, bed temperature, nozzle temperature etc. thank you for this video 😊. Is Orca Slicer free? As Creality print doesn’t seem to allow for different types of support structures, also if I want to rotate the model with the supports, they turn off, or removed. Thank you again, have a great new year. Gary