Master infill to take your 3D prints to the next level
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2024
- Check out my 2nd channel, TT Racing: / @ttracingyt
Infill is probably an aspect of 3D printing we rarely consider beyond setting the density. In this video, we take a deep dive into infill, looking at what parameters best suit a range of situations. Whether you are trying to create strong prints, fast prints, or prints that use minimal filament, this guide has you covered. We also explore some more experimental options to drastically alter the appearance of our models.
STL patterns from this video on Printables: www.printables.com/model/5495...
0:00 Introduction
PEO patterned bed on Aliexpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCT...
0:47 What is infill?
Low poly fox: www.thingiverse.com/thing:937740
2:19 Slicer resources
OrcaSlicer: github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer
PrusaSlicer infill reference: help.prusa3d.com/article/infi...
Bambu Lab infill reference: wiki.bambulab.com/en/software...
Cura infill reference: support.ultimaker.com/s/artic...
3:02 Saving filament
5:08 Saving time
6:43 Efficient strength
9:04 Instant aesthetics
10:01 New surface finishes with infill tricks
14:14 Artistic masterpieces/abominations with no walls
17:01 Conclusion
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Dude you're always pushing the boundaries and helping so many people get into this hobby. Your channel is a gift to 3d printing
Another good job. You always get right down to it without wasting our time. A true pro. Your professional background shows. You come to class prepared.
I'm gonna be an infill master!
Like no one ever was
like a cheap pornstar
10:13 I use Hilbert curve as a top surface for translucent flashlight diffusers, as it scatters the light better
this is clever
I use Hilbert curve on everything because it is awesome...
Another cool thing is that ideaMaker lets you apply patterns to the external walls, which I think you or Stefan may have done a video on before. It also strengthens the part.
You are on another level for showing us the details in every aspect of this hobby. THANK YOU!
I had no idea you could change the top and bottom pattern. Very cool.
A whole lot of great information in 17 minutes. Thanks.
You are a clear teacher and you do not try to make it happen with a lot of phony dramatics and lame video editing. Too bad more don't follow your example.
You can use modifier volumes for strength too. I had a part that was under compression at one point but unloaded elsewhere (part of a screw clamp). I made a the infill denser in the loaded section only.
This concept goes from entry level to elite. That fox was an artistic "abomination". Can't wait to add these infill concepts to my creative process.
The last few minutes were gold
I thought I knew exposed infill but you’ve really expanded my horizons here. Great video!
Removing solid layers is also a great way to handle making transparent FDM surfaces.
Normally if you’re making something like the lid of a box with transparent filament, the overlapping lines will cause so many reflections that it won’t look transparent.
But if you just do 1 clean solid layer and then use a low infill percentage for the rest, you’ll get a relatively clear layer that still generally has enough strength to not be all floppy and whatnot.
hi heyspooky, have you become a flat earther yet?
So much fun seeing you play with the settings. I loved it. I want to experiment too now.
Really great explanation of the modifier. I need to test this for myself :)
That adaptive cube is very important for me. I print shoe lasts and I need to have the bottom be more solid than other areas, because nails are used there to fasten the upper leather to the sole. This is very useful.
thank u for introducing me to modifiers.
I love the fox with the open infill spaces. Thanks so much for going over this so clearly!
Super cool! I definitely want to try this out!
Those are all fantastic ideas that I and my coworkers will be exploring immediately!
Thanks for sharing this - super cool to see in action :)
Far more interesting than wall brackets.
Another great video, thank you!
By teasing us with what is possible in slicers, we can see how they can be used as an additional design tool as well! Outstanding video.
Love the use of unusual shapes for modifiers!
I thoroughly enjoyed watching this video! Definitely going to have another watch later.
Amazing video, thank you so much for all your efforts . Love the fox.
Really cool video, friend! Thanks!
That spiral fox is really cool looking 👍
Thanks for still covering simplify 3d
Amazing! Thanks for this, have been experimenting recently with infill patterns and top surfaces - the Hilbert curve leaves a good approximation to the textured bed of the Bambu X1 so you get an almost identical finish on both sides of a print. I have also been using the PEO bed you recommended, but also they do a PEY which leaves a rainbow effect (not unlike a hologram) and have been trying out printing parts upside down so you get that as a top finish instead.
So cool. Will have to play with this
Outstanding presentation.
Thank you for your brilliant video. I have continued to learn more about 3D printing from your channel.
Great video!
Love the infill modifiers to get fancy top and bottom layers. Adaptive cubic is a great advice too!
Haven't been printing in a while, thanks for showing me lightning infill
Awesome video Michael! I learnt heaps of cool techniques, so thank you!
Fascinating. This is so informative - thank you!
You successfully highlighted an area of 3D printing which I have never really considered much before. Obviously infill effects the time taken and filament used and the strength of the model. But now a total new arena to consider. Thanks for that and presented in a way to want more. I MUST try this.
Excellent vid!
Your content is always amazing 🤩
Thank you for all the hardwork you do to give us these tips n tricks u well demonstrate across many slicers.
Great content. Thanks
That is a great tutorial.
Very cool vid. I'll have to watch like 10 times. Please keep doing more like this.
as instructive as helpful. Great pedagogy. Thank you!
wow, that was incredible, thank you
So clear and so interesting!! definetly the most interesting video I watched!!
Some very cool ideas in this video.
I seem to remember that Slant 3D recently discussed similar ideas (applying a texture as part of the 3D modelling process), but this is a nice way to use the slicer to help achieve it!
I really like the way the low poly fox turned out.
Thanks for sharing!
Love your videos. Genius
Świetny materiał! Jesteś jednym z najkonkretniejszych TH-camrów w temacie. Dzięki.
Using slicer modifiers like that is awesome. I have to try that.
thanks, you make 3d printing look so easy =D
Fantastic as always Michael. Cheers, JAYTEE
This was really awesome!
Love this artistic fox. Right now I'm playing with transparent PLA, thin walls, low density infill in different angles. It makes nice effect on simple models, while I know nothing about using CAD
I've seen some of this in the past and this one just takes it up a few notches. Excellent video!
Really cool stuff. The sponge tpu!
13:06 genius idea, this is so great I hope slicers start pre-including models for modifying slicing because 10/10
The fox was so cool!
very interesting concept
Dude that was a freaking awesome video. I learned so many new things and ive been printing for awhile. Crazy how there is always something new to learn
Cura has a plugin that when just hovering over a setting a really in depth description pops up deacribing it. It is by far the best feaurure of cura. I wish other slicers would do that instead of the extremely basic an lacking description other slicers give on their settings
Great video, man!
Another trick: sparse infill layer width. Infill is the amount of plastic compared to amount of void. Make lines thicker, for the same amount of plastic which needs to be inside, printer makes thiccer lines - but fewer of them. Thus reducing time spent on infill and travel. Of course you need a hotend able to keep up with required flow.
It's possible also speeding up infill speeds and accels. Nobody cares if it is ugly, ringing, bad PA when it's invisible inside a print.
Good info
The fox is really looking good
That was pretty interesting. I might try a few of these things.....
Thanks Mickael for the summer video :)
What a great video
Thanks, really cool work. I would never have thought of those ideas. Great job sharing with ghe community
10:01 This is really cool, the triangles look very nice. And thanks for sharing the files with us! - 09:04 is one I often use, but not for aesthetic reasons. It's great to save time whilst keeping enough stability to check if a shape fits for it's application. Therefore I take negative volume modifiers to not print less interesting parts of the model but just the shape cut I'm looking for. I so can do a quick fit test instead of printing a whole model.
Your videos have helped me get to the next level man, thank you 😊
Also I see in another video some Sutton tools cutting fluid, you're an Aussie? Awesome representing BRO 👏 🙌
Will there be a comprehensive video about OrcaSlicer from you as well? I would be looking forward to it. 👍
I do believe he done one a few months back
this was very interesting indeed
Excellent video: Time for me to have another look at Orca!
Great video bout would have loved to see gradient infill as well
very usefull. Thanks from another youtuber form Florence, Italy
Cool video
Very interesting and insightful!
Which slicers would you recommend and why?
Pros and cons?
Maybe a new video for you.
I am using the no-top-and-bottom for parts where I want to have vent holes - e.g. power supply enclosure. In those areas, using honeycomb infill, I get a nice pattern and automatic venting :) Works great, I am using is a modifier part that disables top and bottom.
Thanks! Ive been messign with using gyroid infill with 0 top bottom layers to make small light diffusers for leds
learning how to learn..gj👍👍
wow, its like you have opened up a whole new dynamic of printing for me, before i had only used the modifier to change infill density in specific parts of a print.
a question though, when you did the hilbert curve and you modified the z offset so that it wasnt so squished, how would i go about that in bambu studio?
One of the first things I designed and printed was a fidget toy consisting of a place to grip with your fingers and a free-spinning bar, letting you flick it like a fidget spinner but also spin it by swinging it up and down. I found it didn't have as satisfying a momentum as i wanted though, so I added a cylinder modifier to turn the far end 100% infill. Suddenly it felt MUCH more satisfying to swing and spin, and since then i tend to prefer 100% infill on small models and toys that i wouldn't save much time on by lowering the infill anyway, just because of how surprisingly satisfying and weighty they can feel
Man, that's cool 😎
I make simple bodies and use them as modifiers when I design parts to control infill type and density.
I actually made an evaporative cooler using a block of gyroid infill no top and bottom, but I kept 2 walls
I think the low poly fox at the end was an abomination, but it was an excellent example as it was clearly intended.
Great content, as usual.
Keep it up Michael! 👍
Very cool. What would you choose for durability with TPU infill, if you expect all stress on the part to be applied from +Y direction? I'd like to avoid rotating the part. Current guess is gyroid
I'm not sure if you'll see this, but I either saw you or saw your doppelganger at the Guzman in Penrith today!
I even did not believed, that there can be something new and inovative.
But you handled it. Great work.
Love me Orcaslicer. Also, another good video.
Very cool with the last black squishy version, it would be possible to make custom fime case inserts for equipment ect. 🤔
Something i don't see mentioned is infill thickness, in Cura you can change the multiplier of infill lines to make some super strong but spare infill (my favorite being gyriod with a 3 multiplier making 1.2 mm thick infill walls).
Really need some uniformity in naming. It's nuts that each slicer calls the same setting a different thing.
WOW.....awesome info. I just wish I was smart enough to figure it all out. lol
I've only used Cura, so regarding the gear, I would have imported a cylinder, overlapped it in the center until a small distance from the teeth, and given it per model settings that reduces the infill. Only the teeth use the high infill value and the body of the gear is reduced and probably using a different pattern.
The surface finish section looks like an amazing idea!
Using hex infill with no top//bottom layers has real merit when printing jigs for things. I'm currently running off a jig for laser engraving coins/medals and I'm going to give this one a go.
Wondering how first layer would turn out if printed over a raft. Perhaps that would give a better result than straight onto the bed.
What was the filament for the spiral fox?