Another good job. You always get right down to it without wasting our time. A true pro. Your professional background shows. You come to class prepared.
Another cool thing is that ideaMaker lets you apply patterns to the external walls, which I think you or Stefan may have done a video on before. It also strengthens the part.
You can use modifier volumes for strength too. I had a part that was under compression at one point but unloaded elsewhere (part of a screw clamp). I made a the infill denser in the loaded section only.
A whole lot of great information in 17 minutes. Thanks. You are a clear teacher and you do not try to make it happen with a lot of phony dramatics and lame video editing. Too bad more don't follow your example.
You successfully highlighted an area of 3D printing which I have never really considered much before. Obviously infill effects the time taken and filament used and the strength of the model. But now a total new arena to consider. Thanks for that and presented in a way to want more. I MUST try this.
Removing solid layers is also a great way to handle making transparent FDM surfaces. Normally if you’re making something like the lid of a box with transparent filament, the overlapping lines will cause so many reflections that it won’t look transparent. But if you just do 1 clean solid layer and then use a low infill percentage for the rest, you’ll get a relatively clear layer that still generally has enough strength to not be all floppy and whatnot.
That adaptive cube is very important for me. I print shoe lasts and I need to have the bottom be more solid than other areas, because nails are used there to fasten the upper leather to the sole. This is very useful.
Amazing! Thanks for this, have been experimenting recently with infill patterns and top surfaces - the Hilbert curve leaves a good approximation to the textured bed of the Bambu X1 so you get an almost identical finish on both sides of a print. I have also been using the PEO bed you recommended, but also they do a PEY which leaves a rainbow effect (not unlike a hologram) and have been trying out printing parts upside down so you get that as a top finish instead.
Another trick: sparse infill layer width. Infill is the amount of plastic compared to amount of void. Make lines thicker, for the same amount of plastic which needs to be inside, printer makes thiccer lines - but fewer of them. Thus reducing time spent on infill and travel. Of course you need a hotend able to keep up with required flow. It's possible also speeding up infill speeds and accels. Nobody cares if it is ugly, ringing, bad PA when it's invisible inside a print.
Love this artistic fox. Right now I'm playing with transparent PLA, thin walls, low density infill in different angles. It makes nice effect on simple models, while I know nothing about using CAD
One of the first things I designed and printed was a fidget toy consisting of a place to grip with your fingers and a free-spinning bar, letting you flick it like a fidget spinner but also spin it by swinging it up and down. I found it didn't have as satisfying a momentum as i wanted though, so I added a cylinder modifier to turn the far end 100% infill. Suddenly it felt MUCH more satisfying to swing and spin, and since then i tend to prefer 100% infill on small models and toys that i wouldn't save much time on by lowering the infill anyway, just because of how surprisingly satisfying and weighty they can feel
I've only used Cura, so regarding the gear, I would have imported a cylinder, overlapped it in the center until a small distance from the teeth, and given it per model settings that reduces the infill. Only the teeth use the high infill value and the body of the gear is reduced and probably using a different pattern. The surface finish section looks like an amazing idea!
Dude that was a freaking awesome video. I learned so many new things and ive been printing for awhile. Crazy how there is always something new to learn Cura has a plugin that when just hovering over a setting a really in depth description pops up deacribing it. It is by far the best feaurure of cura. I wish other slicers would do that instead of the extremely basic an lacking description other slicers give on their settings
Thanks for in-depth video. I learned heaps. Fun fact: Did you know that the beat for your intro/outro music is the same as the song “Pimp Hand” by Vince Staples?
Some very cool ideas in this video. I seem to remember that Slant 3D recently discussed similar ideas (applying a texture as part of the 3D modelling process), but this is a nice way to use the slicer to help achieve it! I really like the way the low poly fox turned out. Thanks for sharing!
10:01 This is really cool, the triangles look very nice. And thanks for sharing the files with us! - 09:04 is one I often use, but not for aesthetic reasons. It's great to save time whilst keeping enough stability to check if a shape fits for it's application. Therefore I take negative volume modifiers to not print less interesting parts of the model but just the shape cut I'm looking for. I so can do a quick fit test instead of printing a whole model.
I am using the no-top-and-bottom for parts where I want to have vent holes - e.g. power supply enclosure. In those areas, using honeycomb infill, I get a nice pattern and automatic venting :) Works great, I am using is a modifier part that disables top and bottom.
Your videos have helped me get to the next level man, thank you 😊 Also I see in another video some Sutton tools cutting fluid, you're an Aussie? Awesome representing BRO 👏 🙌
wow, its like you have opened up a whole new dynamic of printing for me, before i had only used the modifier to change infill density in specific parts of a print. a question though, when you did the hilbert curve and you modified the z offset so that it wasnt so squished, how would i go about that in bambu studio?
Something i don't see mentioned is infill thickness, in Cura you can change the multiplier of infill lines to make some super strong but spare infill (my favorite being gyriod with a 3 multiplier making 1.2 mm thick infill walls).
I make simple bodies and use them as modifiers when I design parts to control infill type and density. I actually made an evaporative cooler using a block of gyroid infill no top and bottom, but I kept 2 walls
Using hex infill with no top//bottom layers has real merit when printing jigs for things. I'm currently running off a jig for laser engraving coins/medals and I'm going to give this one a go.
Very cool. What would you choose for durability with TPU infill, if you expect all stress on the part to be applied from +Y direction? I'd like to avoid rotating the part. Current guess is gyroid
Quick Question with regards to the bambu labs slicer. Can you select surfaces to be removed to expose the infill pattern. My recent attempts for resin filling models and i don't require all top sides removed. Thanks again for the great Video !
Hey Michael, Bambu Recently updated their software, so now you can't make custom infill patterns. Id come to using this for most of my prints and was wondering if you'd figured out a work around on the new software, I tried adding layers, removing, adding height to the modified layer, but it's difficult to get it to be as clean as before.
Dude you're always pushing the boundaries and helping so many people get into this hobby. Your channel is a gift to 3d printing
Totally agree! Thank you, TT!!!
Another good job. You always get right down to it without wasting our time. A true pro. Your professional background shows. You come to class prepared.
10:13 I use Hilbert curve as a top surface for translucent flashlight diffusers, as it scatters the light better
this is clever
I use Hilbert curve on everything because it is awesome...
I was thinking it would make a good lampshade or cucoloris!
I had no idea you could change the top and bottom pattern. Very cool.
You are on another level for showing us the details in every aspect of this hobby. THANK YOU!
I love the fox with the open infill spaces. Thanks so much for going over this so clearly!
Another cool thing is that ideaMaker lets you apply patterns to the external walls, which I think you or Stefan may have done a video on before. It also strengthens the part.
You can use modifier volumes for strength too. I had a part that was under compression at one point but unloaded elsewhere (part of a screw clamp). I made a the infill denser in the loaded section only.
This channel is fantastic!!! Such a great resource without all the nonsense.
I'm gonna be an infill master!
Like no one ever was
like a cheap pornstar
A whole lot of great information in 17 minutes. Thanks.
You are a clear teacher and you do not try to make it happen with a lot of phony dramatics and lame video editing. Too bad more don't follow your example.
The last few minutes were gold
I will defiantly learn this and many other things on your channel cheers from Aust in Thailand (AIT)
Thanks for still covering simplify 3d
So much fun seeing you play with the settings. I loved it. I want to experiment too now.
Really intricate experiments! Thank you for sharing❤
Far more interesting than wall brackets.
Always learn a lot from your videos but as a texture lover this might be my favorite
By teasing us with what is possible in slicers, we can see how they can be used as an additional design tool as well! Outstanding video.
You successfully highlighted an area of 3D printing which I have never really considered much before. Obviously infill effects the time taken and filament used and the strength of the model. But now a total new arena to consider. Thanks for that and presented in a way to want more. I MUST try this.
Really great explanation of the modifier. I need to test this for myself :)
Removing solid layers is also a great way to handle making transparent FDM surfaces.
Normally if you’re making something like the lid of a box with transparent filament, the overlapping lines will cause so many reflections that it won’t look transparent.
But if you just do 1 clean solid layer and then use a low infill percentage for the rest, you’ll get a relatively clear layer that still generally has enough strength to not be all floppy and whatnot.
hi heyspooky, have you become a flat earther yet?
That adaptive cube is very important for me. I print shoe lasts and I need to have the bottom be more solid than other areas, because nails are used there to fasten the upper leather to the sole. This is very useful.
This concept goes from entry level to elite. That fox was an artistic "abomination". Can't wait to add these infill concepts to my creative process.
Amazing! Thanks for this, have been experimenting recently with infill patterns and top surfaces - the Hilbert curve leaves a good approximation to the textured bed of the Bambu X1 so you get an almost identical finish on both sides of a print. I have also been using the PEO bed you recommended, but also they do a PEY which leaves a rainbow effect (not unlike a hologram) and have been trying out printing parts upside down so you get that as a top finish instead.
That spiral fox is really cool looking 👍
I thought I knew exposed infill but you’ve really expanded my horizons here. Great video!
I've seen some of this in the past and this one just takes it up a few notches. Excellent video!
Haven't been printing in a while, thanks for showing me lightning infill
Another trick: sparse infill layer width. Infill is the amount of plastic compared to amount of void. Make lines thicker, for the same amount of plastic which needs to be inside, printer makes thiccer lines - but fewer of them. Thus reducing time spent on infill and travel. Of course you need a hotend able to keep up with required flow.
It's possible also speeding up infill speeds and accels. Nobody cares if it is ugly, ringing, bad PA when it's invisible inside a print.
Love the use of unusual shapes for modifiers!
Those are all fantastic ideas that I and my coworkers will be exploring immediately!
Love this artistic fox. Right now I'm playing with transparent PLA, thin walls, low density infill in different angles. It makes nice effect on simple models, while I know nothing about using CAD
Thank you for all the hardwork you do to give us these tips n tricks u well demonstrate across many slicers.
Love the infill modifiers to get fancy top and bottom layers. Adaptive cubic is a great advice too!
So clear and so interesting!! definetly the most interesting video I watched!!
13:06 genius idea, this is so great I hope slicers start pre-including models for modifying slicing because 10/10
One of the first things I designed and printed was a fidget toy consisting of a place to grip with your fingers and a free-spinning bar, letting you flick it like a fidget spinner but also spin it by swinging it up and down. I found it didn't have as satisfying a momentum as i wanted though, so I added a cylinder modifier to turn the far end 100% infill. Suddenly it felt MUCH more satisfying to swing and spin, and since then i tend to prefer 100% infill on small models and toys that i wouldn't save much time on by lowering the infill anyway, just because of how surprisingly satisfying and weighty they can feel
Great video!
Outstanding presentation.
Thank you for your brilliant video. I have continued to learn more about 3D printing from your channel.
Awesome video Michael! I learnt heaps of cool techniques, so thank you!
Using slicer modifiers like that is awesome. I have to try that.
Thanks Mickael for the summer video :)
So cool. Will have to play with this
Holy cow, I had no idea you could mess with infill like this. I am going to definitely start dorking around with it!
I thoroughly enjoyed watching this video! Definitely going to have another watch later.
The fox is really looking good
This was really awesome!
Very cool vid. I'll have to watch like 10 times. Please keep doing more like this.
The fox was so cool!
Will there be a comprehensive video about OrcaSlicer from you as well? I would be looking forward to it. 👍
I do believe he done one a few months back
I've only used Cura, so regarding the gear, I would have imported a cylinder, overlapped it in the center until a small distance from the teeth, and given it per model settings that reduces the infill. Only the teeth use the high infill value and the body of the gear is reduced and probably using a different pattern.
The surface finish section looks like an amazing idea!
Fantastic as always Michael. Cheers, JAYTEE
Świetny materiał! Jesteś jednym z najkonkretniejszych TH-camrów w temacie. Dzięki.
Super cool! I definitely want to try this out!
Really cool video, friend! Thanks!
as instructive as helpful. Great pedagogy. Thank you!
Very interesting and insightful!
Which slicers would you recommend and why?
Pros and cons?
Maybe a new video for you.
Thanks for sharing this - super cool to see in action :)
Dude that was a freaking awesome video. I learned so many new things and ive been printing for awhile. Crazy how there is always something new to learn
Cura has a plugin that when just hovering over a setting a really in depth description pops up deacribing it. It is by far the best feaurure of cura. I wish other slicers would do that instead of the extremely basic an lacking description other slicers give on their settings
Fascinating. This is so informative - thank you!
Your content is always amazing 🤩
Thanks! Ive been messign with using gyroid infill with 0 top bottom layers to make small light diffusers for leds
Thanks for in-depth video. I learned heaps. Fun fact: Did you know that the beat for your intro/outro music is the same as the song “Pimp Hand” by Vince Staples?
Another great video, thank you!
thank u for introducing me to modifiers.
Amazing video, thank you so much for all your efforts . Love the fox.
Some very cool ideas in this video.
I seem to remember that Slant 3D recently discussed similar ideas (applying a texture as part of the 3D modelling process), but this is a nice way to use the slicer to help achieve it!
I really like the way the low poly fox turned out.
Thanks for sharing!
Really need some uniformity in naming. It's nuts that each slicer calls the same setting a different thing.
very usefull. Thanks from another youtuber form Florence, Italy
10:01 This is really cool, the triangles look very nice. And thanks for sharing the files with us! - 09:04 is one I often use, but not for aesthetic reasons. It's great to save time whilst keeping enough stability to check if a shape fits for it's application. Therefore I take negative volume modifiers to not print less interesting parts of the model but just the shape cut I'm looking for. I so can do a quick fit test instead of printing a whole model.
thanks, you make 3d printing look so easy =D
I am using the no-top-and-bottom for parts where I want to have vent holes - e.g. power supply enclosure. In those areas, using honeycomb infill, I get a nice pattern and automatic venting :) Works great, I am using is a modifier part that disables top and bottom.
Really cool stuff. The sponge tpu!
Your videos have helped me get to the next level man, thank you 😊
Also I see in another video some Sutton tools cutting fluid, you're an Aussie? Awesome representing BRO 👏 🙌
I'm not sure if you'll see this, but I either saw you or saw your doppelganger at the Guzman in Penrith today!
Excellent video: Time for me to have another look at Orca!
wow, its like you have opened up a whole new dynamic of printing for me, before i had only used the modifier to change infill density in specific parts of a print.
a question though, when you did the hilbert curve and you modified the z offset so that it wasnt so squished, how would i go about that in bambu studio?
wow, that was incredible, thank you
Great video, man!
Love your videos. Genius
very interesting concept
Very cool with the last black squishy version, it would be possible to make custom fime case inserts for equipment ect. 🤔
That was pretty interesting. I might try a few of these things.....
Excellent vid!
Something i don't see mentioned is infill thickness, in Cura you can change the multiplier of infill lines to make some super strong but spare infill (my favorite being gyriod with a 3 multiplier making 1.2 mm thick infill walls).
this was very interesting indeed
I make simple bodies and use them as modifiers when I design parts to control infill type and density.
I actually made an evaporative cooler using a block of gyroid infill no top and bottom, but I kept 2 walls
Using hex infill with no top//bottom layers has real merit when printing jigs for things. I'm currently running off a jig for laser engraving coins/medals and I'm going to give this one a go.
Very cool. What would you choose for durability with TPU infill, if you expect all stress on the part to be applied from +Y direction? I'd like to avoid rotating the part. Current guess is gyroid
Quick Question with regards to the bambu labs slicer. Can you select surfaces to be removed to expose the infill pattern. My recent attempts for resin filling models and i don't require all top sides removed. Thanks again for the great Video !
That is a great tutorial.
many thanks for your video!
Great video bout would have loved to see gradient infill as well
Thanks, really cool work. I would never have thought of those ideas. Great job sharing with ghe community
Love me Orcaslicer. Also, another good video.
What a great video
Great content. Thanks
Hey Michael, Bambu Recently updated their software, so now you can't make custom infill patterns. Id come to using this for most of my prints and was wondering if you'd figured out a work around on the new software, I tried adding layers, removing, adding height to the modified layer, but it's difficult to get it to be as clean as before.