I’m just starting to learn about hydro dipping. This is one of the best videos I’ve seen so far on setting up a gun. You make it look so easy. Thank you.
One of the best videos I've seen that shows how to set up a paint gun. My new Sharpe gun mentioned the spray patterns you show in the troubleshooting section but gave no real explanation, so thanks! Sata also has an excellent TH-cam video that stresses the importance of having enough air flow and being sure you don't have restrictive fittings. I've been fighting orange peel, and maybe now I can figure out why.
There are several components to doing a pro job. One resource I discovered that successfully combines these is the Magic Painter Method (google it if you're interested) definately the no.1 info that I have ever seen. look at this great resource.
Best gun adjustment clip yet. Another guy does great at explaining tip sizes and love that one. This is great show what does what and what to or not to do and wasn’t a long video.
Best advice yet works great on a Kremlin gravity gun for €300+ even worked for a cheap €17.00 gravity gun from Lidl and the results were excellent and just as good .Thanks.
very clear explanation and confirms my progress. I would have lowered the air pressure first to solve the shape problem, but it's good to learn that restricting the paint can also fix it. great tip to spray horizontal to check for sag.
I wish I would have watched this again before I started painting, Never used OHW before until yesterday. Now I know why it didn't spray right. I'll get it right on the rest of the parts to be sprayed. Thanks for your videos.
I\'m not sure but ,if anyone else wants to discover car spray painting at home try Corbandy Car Sprayer Crusher (do a search on google ) ? Ive heard some awesome things about it and my friend got excellent success with it.
Thanks for sharing that very well explained I never do a spray pattern but I should I painted a old car bumper ages ago devibliss gti pro and it came out sand effect
There are many factors in getting a good result. One resource I discovered which successfully combines these is the Magic Painter Method (check it out on google) definately the most incredible info that I've heard of. Check out this extraordinary website.
Thank you so much for this very informative video! Helped me out tremendously for my first time painting a car. Which i just so happened to make a run in a couple spots... Wet sanding will fix it though!
I don’t know what year this was made, but higher resolution could not be more crucial as well as closer views of the patterns. Atomization is key, and if we can’t see for ourselves the barely perceptible differences in the atomization of the paint then it’s all for naught. I don’t get the 3 second thing. Holding a gun for three seconds on an automotive panel will cause a run, unless the initial pattern is blown out with too much air pressure and not enough paint. And at that point the finish would look like a “dry coat”, meaning somewhat like sandpaper. Too much distance does a similar thing, where the paint has so much accompanying and relatively dry airflow that it is trying to dry mid air. Puddling in the middle of the test pattern indicates too much paint, which can be corrected by either less fluid flow or more pressure, but in reality more CFM, but the tip size combined with psi dictates CFM. A 2.0 tip will flow more CFM with the same psi as a smaller tip size. And Vice versa. Smaller tip size means more pressure to get same CFM. Fluid restriction might be a way to make up for a small compressor, but the whole idea is to apply paint, so the industry eggheads have determined that to save our squirrels and beavers and mockingbirds we must apply the paint with as little waste as possible, meaning high transfer efficiency, which in turn means less overspray, and more actual paint on the work surface and less wasted into the air as overspray. They have determined that the best way to do this is with a spray gun which uses higher volumes of air, but with less pressure. They figured that 50 psi at the tip made for too turbulent of airflow, which allowed too much paint in that airflow to become airborne in a cloud of paint which wasn’t just not going to land on the surface correctly, but that if it did in such an airborne state, the finish would be undesirable and often necessitate a respiratory, which means yet more paint wasted, which in turn means more paint in the air and which in turn means more paint to be scrubbed and swept “away” and at some point right into little Rocky Raccoon’s body, where he might seek revenge on our careless toxic waste missteps and toss our refuse containers. The evidence is there. For every drop of paint not in the desired position, that is paint we have to at some point clean and dispose of, lest it become the new hue of our shop floor. So the best example of high volume and low pressure would be one giant drop of heavily thinned paint onto a horizontal surface. That paint will flow out until the surface tension grows as the paint reacts with the air and starts to release its highly volatile solvents, a necessary vehicle to get the paint to remain liquid while not exposed to air, and needed for transfer to the desired location, our body panel, fridge, bicycle, guitar, whatever. Shop floor. That would be a 100% transfer rate. Top notch, and Flipper would approve. No waste. No clean up. So how do we do that for a car door? Lay it flat, apply the calculated amount of thinner for the volume of paint needed to cover the entire car door to the desired millage, and pray that it hits every corner and crease and undulation equally. Good luck with that. So scale it back. Way back. We could never get giant drops of paint to look uniform on a panel, as each would dry at different rates and the individual surface tensions of each drop would dictate the end size of each, and then as they each meet up with their neighbors, the boundaries between them would cause even more of a pattern of texture, creating what we have come to call “orange peel”. I personally would have preferred it be called “golf ball” as that is a more accurate description. So then if we could make the paint into ultra fine drops, applied with enough pressure to get it to the panel before starting to dry, but with a big enough pattern to prevent uneven application appearances on the panel, that would look good, right. Why don’t we have the choice to make a pattern 3 feet tall, to cover a door or fender in one pass, is what I’d like to know. So the mix of air to paint has to be optimized, and that’s a tough call, every single time. High atomization will make for some overspray. Hold your paint gun over a piece of paper with no air pressure applied and squeeze the trigger fully. It will drip liquid paint through the needle part. That’s where the paint comes out. The air comes out of the other holes on the air cap, which in turn dictates the pattern. The ratio of air to fluid dictates the efficiency, and the texture. Most efficient would be to simply pour the paint into the surface, but the coverage would end up uneven. So we must make more even coverage with a fan pattern with air. Too much air means not enough paint, dry and rough texture. Too little air means uneven coverage, runs, too wet for the desired finish. Finding the right ratio is the challenge it is constantly changing and there are too many variables to tell someone else what pressure is best, what distance is best, what speed is best, and what overlap is best. The best thing to do is have a nice big test sheet of paper to check it all out, as shown here, but disregard the numbers on his regulator. To a point. There’s no doubt that 40 psi will be way too much. And that 15psi will be too little. But as he showed here, the pattern matters, and the horizontal pattern will show if too much paint is being applied, by way of runs, or at least uneven runs. Even runs across a horizontal pattern reveals simply too much paint, so tune up the pressure. You could reduce paint flow with the fluid knob, but we want more paint, not less, and few circumstances will dictate such a move, but at the very least, that knob should be turned in till it hits a fully squeezed trigger, otherwise there is too much fluid flow at the slightest pull of the trigger past halfway, which is no good, as that means there might not ever be enough pressure to keep up, and besides, way too much pressure will mean too much overspray, defeating the point of the whole thing. Bottom line? As much pressure as the pattern can take without being “blown out” with the narrow-at-the-waist pattern he described with very little paint in that area. That’s how you know it’s too much psi, and thus volume per orifice size.
Not sure what those initial settings are, all the way out on my Iwata would unscrew each valve and they would be in my hand.. Could you mean a certain number of turns from seated? Needed to shoot some primer today, 1st time in decades, 1st time this style gun, guess could test pattern on the plastic masking the car, no paper around...
Great video, never seen the tip on using a horizontal spray pattern to test for runs before. Only complaint, the moving between scenes is distracting. Despite this I'm looking forward to the next one. Many thanks. PCUK
I've got a 100 litre 14.5 cfm compressor but when I try and set the gun to 22 psi just passing air the pressure gauge drops on the gun to 10 psi and opening this reg fully up only gets it to 12psi / doesn't help mich, but the compressor reg I set at 50 psi or fully open it doesn't seem to make much difference, any ideas? Pipe too small or something?? Trying to use 3m 2.0 pps gun help very much appreciated, thanks
@@OHWPaint yeah I can but think I've sorted it the 1/4 quick couplers are strangling the supply from comp, I've fitted 8mm hollow threaded joints and effectively permanently connected gun (3m pps 2.0) to comp and I've now got 35 and can adjust down to 25, who knew the quick connect things would effectively reduce the pressure, new to all this so at least I'm learning 😀 need more capacity in tank now 100 litres not last long !
you would think that paper is way off the comparison of the cars metal therefore the sag or dripping is not accurately adjustable because paper absorbs the accumulating paint...should you try the 3 second method on metal we would probably see a drip or a sag...im just saying.😏
Even the grit of the sanding affects runs, as well as reducer ratio, temp, humidity, airflow, and of course, paint buildup which is determined by speed, distance, and air pressure. Too many variables. Bottom line is this truism that the older veterans say: the best paint job is one big run. In other words, to prevent orange peel and get the best finish you will be on the ragged edge of a run when at optimum application. Always use as much pressure as possible without “blowing out” the middle of the pattern. There should be nice even coverage all around the inner part of the test spray, but with no puddling or spotty bits of paint, or another way to say that is that the individual dots of paint on the periphery should be very, very fine, while the middle area is smooth, even, and not already looking like orange peel on the low end of pressure, but not thin coverage around the middle either, at which point the pressure is too high. Ignore the number until you have found a good pattern. Only then, and on that day, those conditions, that mix of paint, that gun, everything, try to maintain that pressure number. If your gauge says 35psi, so be it, as we all have to remember that these gauges aren’t super accurate and lots of things influence the difference from the gauge to the spray cap, so whether your gauge says 22psi or 35psi, it doesn’t matter as long as the test pattern is correct. The available CFM of the tank will allow the read psi and in turn the pattern to change a bit as the compressor cycles, regardless of what the regulator is doing. The regulators only allow that number as a maximum, but your gun can spray at a lower CFM if the pressure from the tank falls too low. For example, let’s say everything is all charged up, tank pressure says 150psi, your regulator on the compressor says 90, and at the gun you’ve got 30psi. You start painting, and the tank slowly drops to 125 before it kicks in to recharge. At that point the pressure at the regulator set at 90 psi will have proportionally less pressure from the tank, and in turn might only be allowing 75psi through, which will affect your psi at the gun, and maybe that drops to 27psi. If your initial setting was on the low side of optimum pattern spray pressure, you will notice a difference in the gun’s application. If your pressure was closer to the upper end of what made a good pattern you’ll notice less difference and so on. That’s why these guys stress a bug compressor, but what is most needed for consistent CFM is a big TANK. A big tank equals cubic feet. Period. If you have five cubic feet, then in less than a minute you won’t be able to flow 5cfm, and in reality it won’t flow that much anyway because all of these tanks are tapped with 1/4” bungs. Which I think is asinine. They should be 1/2”. The power of the motor dictates the speed of recharge back to max pressure. And that’s it. A tank with 1000 gallon capacity might not even need a recharge during the entirety of your job, and would certainly make for the best consistency. Likewise, a two stage comp with 12 hp and only holding let’s say 10 gallons might do the trick but is a bad idea. I wish these guys would stress that the size of the tank is most important and that for car painting I’d say a 25gallon would be minimum. As it stands, my 2.7hp, 26 gallon compressor will maintain the same pressure at the regulator on my gun at all times, but even that is inaccurate, as the numbers are only a reference point.
I have a doubt, could we setup the spray gun to a table and instead of the hand release valve use a foot release valve for spraying stencils on a particular surface. Any ideas on how I could do it?
wow! not a lot of auto spray painters in this section. Nobody knows the gun he is using? Wow! Probably the very best auto finish gun on the planet, Iwata Supernova LS400 LVLP w/gold cap. The second very best gun on the planet for auto finish is the Iwata Supernova WS400. Of course that is my opinion.
I went to a pawn shop to price out paint guns and I noticed none of them have that pressure gauge on them . I was just wondering if that's an extra mandatory part to put on the gun or what's the deal with that gauge ?
Hi Mark, an LVLP is low volume of air, not low pressure. It simply means that less air is required for spraying, meaning you can use a smaller CFM compressor.
I done the 3 second horizontal trick but about a fist distance away from the surface using a LVLP gun, but the paint only stopped running when the fluid knob was wound nearly all the way in, and it was spraying to dry at that setting so was causing orange peel. does it have to be 10-12" distance from surface when spraying?, that just seem too far away when using an lvlp gun
@@ObbardProductions Hi, LVLP stands for low volume AIR at low pressure, not low volume paint. If you are winding the fluid in, then that is shutting off fluid. Out on the knob is more fluid. Please text tech at 305-318-1468 so we can see what's up - thanks JJ
80 gallon compressor is plenty, even a smaller compressor would do the job just fine, the problem with smaller compressors is that you will not be able to spray non stop, you will be forced to stop and wait for it to keep up, for big projects like painting a car, a small compressor won’t do it. Check for the CFM on your sprayer and match it with your compressor, also keep in mind that a 2 stage compressor pump is better than a single stage one as it fills the tank much faster.
Did u say u need a 13-14 hp compressor???? That is slightly overkill for most people lol and cost more than some of our cars!!!I have a 2.5 hp 20 gallon, and it's just right for my personal at home use. Maybe not good if I was doing cars, but most people watching a how to set up a gun video are probably not painting cars lolGood tips though, I'm new to this and learned a few tips I wish I new before I got messing around earlier!
Do you think a 2.5hp, 9.5CFM compressor will be enough for home use for spraying lots of internal doors with a LVLP gun? I could step up to a 3HP V-Twin but it adds to cost and size.
13,14 horse power compressor?! No way! That would be way more than you need. 5 RHP will suffice if it’s 60 gallons or more. 15 CFM at 100 psi should be good.
suction is more clumsy, as the cup can easily hit small parts while you're painting. Suction cups also don't use every drop of paint, as the feed tube can't reach the remaining paint. Also, suction cups are very laborious to clean JJ
StinkyDog1971 yeah fiber glass in the paint booth. Which is not allowed. Unfortunately, it was a school booth so and im not willing to play hall monitor. However, since this posting I've gotten a better handle on things
can anyone help me out i boughg a hvlp gun and i already have a compressor to match my gun i was given a gallon of acrylic enamel paint and i was told the way you set up your gun is different then all the other paints anybody know how to set up the gun?
We really did. It was a mistake. We've replied in the comments about the mistake but have added a note in the description as well. It should be 3-4hp. On that note, if anyone knows how to add text to a live video so we can fix this, we are all ears. Thanks for watching!
As long as you're aware. You're still good in my book. I've painted almost a dozen cars with a 5 hp DeWalt two stage 80 gallon compressor that I picked up last year with no issues whatsoever. I often don't read the comments of others for various reasons.
This is the one of the best gun adjustment guide on youtube .
I’m just starting to learn about hydro dipping. This is one of the best videos I’ve seen so far on setting up a gun. You make it look so easy. Thank you.
One of the best videos I've seen that shows how to set up a paint gun. My new Sharpe gun mentioned the spray patterns you show in the troubleshooting section but gave no real explanation, so thanks! Sata also has an excellent TH-cam video that stresses the importance of having enough air flow and being sure you don't have restrictive fittings. I've been fighting orange peel, and maybe now I can figure out why.
I just want to say thank you so much, finally painted my car and thanks to your video i set my guns up, you explained everything perfectly to me.
There are several components to doing a pro job. One resource I discovered that successfully combines these is the Magic Painter Method (google it if you're interested) definately the no.1 info that I have ever seen. look at this great resource.
Best gun adjustment clip yet. Another guy does great at explaining tip sizes and love that one. This is great show what does what and what to or not to do and wasn’t a long video.
By far the best demo out there
Thanks James! Glad you found it useful!
Simple , Direct and Show What an Adjustment Did!!! Great Job!!!
Best advice yet works great on a Kremlin gravity gun for €300+ even worked for a cheap €17.00 gravity gun from Lidl and the results were excellent and just as good .Thanks.
Direct. Informative. Visual.
10 out of 10
You have explained this better than any other on the net. Thank you, Thank you!
very clear explanation and confirms my progress. I would have lowered the air pressure first to solve the shape problem, but it's good to learn that restricting the paint can also fix it. great tip to spray horizontal to check for sag.
meant to say I would have reduced fan, or lowered air pressure for fan.
I wish I would have watched this again before I started painting, Never used OHW before until yesterday. Now I know why it didn't spray right. I'll get it right on the rest of the parts to be sprayed. Thanks for your videos.
Thank you for making this. In many years this has been a mystery. Finally have an easy way to do this that I fully understand.
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Thanks for sharing this. I'm a rookie and this helped a lot!
That horizontal tip and the rest of the demonstration was excellent! I can't believe I haven't tried the horizontal thing before lol
I was thinking the same thing. seems such an obvious thing to do but never though of doing it. cool tip
+paul griffiths lol yea, it's just so simple, funny how you overlook some things :)
I\'m not sure but ,if anyone else wants to discover car spray painting at home try Corbandy Car Sprayer Crusher (do a search on google ) ? Ive heard some awesome things about it and my friend got excellent success with it.
Gonna be spraying my first time soon. Thanks for the tips it will come.in so handy
I have never tried to reduce fan, by adjusting paint rate. Sounds like the best way to atomize. Can't wait to try it. Thanks
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Thank you sir. You’re the best! Great teaching. Keep up the good work.
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the first in a series of start to finish videos to get you on your way to hydrographics success with OHW
Thanks for sharing that very well explained I never do a spray pattern but I should I painted a old car bumper ages ago devibliss gti pro and it came out sand effect
Best paint gun guide I've seen.
must be for a specific gun, can't spin my valves out they would unscrew from gun, all except for cheater valve..
😘😘
There are many factors in getting a good result. One resource I discovered which successfully combines these is the Magic Painter Method (check it out on google) definately the most incredible info that I've heard of. Check out this extraordinary website.
Thank you! Appreciate you taking the time to break it down.
Excellent video, simple straight forward and very clear, thanks so much
thank you ...learnt something today
Epic. Thanks for the info and share
Good video man, very thorough and really informative.
Thanks Daniel! Glad you enjoyed it!
Brilliant teaching skills there....
thank you!
Very nice video
4:32 - If you have a little bit of turd in your cap... :D:D:D Funny slip, but good video. Thanks!
Thanks, man. This is a HUGE help!
Great tips.. Thanks.
Doc
very good videos for newbies.
Thank you for the video.
Thank you so much for this very informative video! Helped me out tremendously for my first time painting a car. Which i just so happened to make a run in a couple spots... Wet sanding will fix it though!
Wow very good
brilliant explanation,cheers
thanks!
THANK YOU!!!!!
I don’t know what year this was made, but higher resolution could not be more crucial as well as closer views of the patterns. Atomization is key, and if we can’t see for ourselves the barely perceptible differences in the atomization of the paint then it’s all for naught. I don’t get the 3 second thing. Holding a gun for three seconds on an automotive panel will cause a run, unless the initial pattern is blown out with too much air pressure and not enough paint. And at that point the finish would look like a “dry coat”, meaning somewhat like sandpaper. Too much distance does a similar thing, where the paint has so much accompanying and relatively dry airflow that it is trying to dry mid air. Puddling in the middle of the test pattern indicates too much paint, which can be corrected by either less fluid flow or more pressure, but in reality more CFM, but the tip size combined with psi dictates CFM. A 2.0 tip will flow more CFM with the same psi as a smaller tip size. And Vice versa. Smaller tip size means more pressure to get same CFM. Fluid restriction might be a way to make up for a small compressor, but the whole idea is to apply paint, so the industry eggheads have determined that to save our squirrels and beavers and mockingbirds we must apply the paint with as little waste as possible, meaning high transfer efficiency, which in turn means less overspray, and more actual paint on the work surface and less wasted into the air as overspray. They have determined that the best way to do this is with a spray gun which uses higher volumes of air, but with less pressure. They figured that 50 psi at the tip made for too turbulent of airflow, which allowed too much paint in that airflow to become airborne in a cloud of paint which wasn’t just not going to land on the surface correctly, but that if it did in such an airborne state, the finish would be undesirable and often necessitate a respiratory, which means yet more paint wasted, which in turn means more paint in the air and which in turn means more paint to be scrubbed and swept “away” and at some point right into little Rocky Raccoon’s body, where he might seek revenge on our careless toxic waste missteps and toss our refuse containers. The evidence is there. For every drop of paint not in the desired position, that is paint we have to at some point clean and dispose of, lest it become the new hue of our shop floor. So the best example of high volume and low pressure would be one giant drop of heavily thinned paint onto a horizontal surface. That paint will flow out until the surface tension grows as the paint reacts with the air and starts to release its highly volatile solvents, a necessary vehicle to get the paint to remain liquid while not exposed to air, and needed for transfer to the desired location, our body panel, fridge, bicycle, guitar, whatever. Shop floor. That would be a 100% transfer rate. Top notch, and Flipper would approve. No waste. No clean up. So how do we do that for a car door? Lay it flat, apply the calculated amount of thinner for the volume of paint needed to cover the entire car door to the desired millage, and pray that it hits every corner and crease and undulation equally. Good luck with that. So scale it back. Way back. We could never get giant drops of paint to look uniform on a panel, as each would dry at different rates and the individual surface tensions of each drop would dictate the end size of each, and then as they each meet up with their neighbors, the boundaries between them would cause even more of a pattern of texture, creating what we have come to call “orange peel”. I personally would have preferred it be called “golf ball” as that is a more accurate description. So then if we could make the paint into ultra fine drops, applied with enough pressure to get it to the panel before starting to dry, but with a big enough pattern to prevent uneven application appearances on the panel, that would look good, right. Why don’t we have the choice to make a pattern 3 feet tall, to cover a door or fender in one pass, is what I’d like to know.
So the mix of air to paint has to be optimized, and that’s a tough call, every single time. High atomization will make for some overspray. Hold your paint gun over a piece of paper with no air pressure applied and squeeze the trigger fully. It will drip liquid paint through the needle part. That’s where the paint comes out. The air comes out of the other holes on the air cap, which in turn dictates the pattern. The ratio of air to fluid dictates the efficiency, and the texture. Most efficient would be to simply pour the paint into the surface, but the coverage would end up uneven. So we must make more even coverage with a fan pattern with air. Too much air means not enough paint, dry and rough texture. Too little air means uneven coverage, runs, too wet for the desired finish. Finding the right ratio is the challenge it is constantly changing and there are too many variables to tell someone else what pressure is best, what distance is best, what speed is best, and what overlap is best. The best thing to do is have a nice big test sheet of paper to check it all out, as shown here, but disregard the numbers on his regulator. To a point. There’s no doubt that 40 psi will be way too much. And that 15psi will be too little. But as he showed here, the pattern matters, and the horizontal pattern will show if too much paint is being applied, by way of runs, or at least uneven runs. Even runs across a horizontal pattern reveals simply too much paint, so tune up the pressure. You could reduce paint flow with the fluid knob, but we want more paint, not less, and few circumstances will dictate such a move, but at the very least, that knob should be turned in till it hits a fully squeezed trigger, otherwise there is too much fluid flow at the slightest pull of the trigger past halfway, which is no good, as that means there might not ever be enough pressure to keep up, and besides, way too much pressure will mean too much overspray, defeating the point of the whole thing. Bottom line? As much pressure as the pattern can take without being “blown out” with the narrow-at-the-waist pattern he described with very little paint in that area. That’s how you know it’s too much psi, and thus volume per orifice size.
Great video
I did't know it was possible to narrow pattern & eliminate figure 8 with just lowering fluid flow?I always had to lower psi to fix this problem!
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Not sure what those initial settings are, all the way out on my Iwata would unscrew each valve and they would be in my hand.. Could you mean a certain number of turns from seated? Needed to shoot some primer today, 1st time in decades, 1st time this style gun, guess could test pattern on the plastic masking the car, no paper around...
text me on 305-318-1468 and we can helpJJ
Great video, never seen the tip on using a horizontal spray pattern to test for runs before. Only complaint, the moving between scenes is distracting. Despite this I'm looking forward to the next one. Many thanks. PCUK
This should replace all gun setup videos.
Thanks for the kind words Jordan! Glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for the tips good info
Thanks , nice video.
I've got a 100 litre 14.5 cfm compressor but when I try and set the gun to 22 psi just passing air the pressure gauge drops on the gun to 10 psi and opening this reg fully up only gets it to 12psi / doesn't help mich, but the compressor reg I set at 50 psi or fully open it doesn't seem to make much difference, any ideas? Pipe too small or something?? Trying to use 3m 2.0 pps gun help very much appreciated, thanks
can you get the compressor regulator up to 100psi?
@@OHWPaint yeah I can but think I've sorted it the 1/4 quick couplers are strangling the supply from comp, I've fitted 8mm hollow threaded joints and effectively permanently connected gun (3m pps 2.0) to comp and I've now got 35 and can adjust down to 25, who knew the quick connect things would effectively reduce the pressure, new to all this so at least I'm learning 😀 need more capacity in tank now 100 litres not last long !
you would think that paper is way off the comparison of the cars metal therefore the sag or dripping is not accurately adjustable because paper absorbs the accumulating paint...should you try the 3 second method on metal we would probably see a drip or a sag...im just saying.😏
Even the grit of the sanding affects runs, as well as reducer ratio, temp, humidity, airflow, and of course, paint buildup which is determined by speed, distance, and air pressure. Too many variables. Bottom line is this truism that the older veterans say: the best paint job is one big run. In other words, to prevent orange peel and get the best finish you will be on the ragged edge of a run when at optimum application. Always use as much pressure as possible without “blowing out” the middle of the pattern. There should be nice even coverage all around the inner part of the test spray, but with no puddling or spotty bits of paint, or another way to say that is that the individual dots of paint on the periphery should be very, very fine, while the middle area is smooth, even, and not already looking like orange peel on the low end of pressure, but not thin coverage around the middle either, at which point the pressure is too high. Ignore the number until you have found a good pattern. Only then, and on that day, those conditions, that mix of paint, that gun, everything, try to maintain that pressure number. If your gauge says 35psi, so be it, as we all have to remember that these gauges aren’t super accurate and lots of things influence the difference from the gauge to the spray cap, so whether your gauge says 22psi or 35psi, it doesn’t matter as long as the test pattern is correct. The available CFM of the tank will allow the read psi and in turn the pattern to change a bit as the compressor cycles, regardless of what the regulator is doing. The regulators only allow that number as a maximum, but your gun can spray at a lower CFM if the pressure from the tank falls too low. For example, let’s say everything is all charged up, tank pressure says 150psi, your regulator on the compressor says 90, and at the gun you’ve got 30psi. You start painting, and the tank slowly drops to 125 before it kicks in to recharge. At that point the pressure at the regulator set at 90 psi will have proportionally less pressure from the tank, and in turn might only be allowing 75psi through, which will affect your psi at the gun, and maybe that drops to 27psi. If your initial setting was on the low side of optimum pattern spray pressure, you will notice a difference in the gun’s application. If your pressure was closer to the upper end of what made a good pattern you’ll notice less difference and so on. That’s why these guys stress a bug compressor, but what is most needed for consistent CFM is a big TANK. A big tank equals cubic feet. Period. If you have five cubic feet, then in less than a minute you won’t be able to flow 5cfm, and in reality it won’t flow that much anyway because all of these tanks are tapped with 1/4” bungs. Which I think is asinine. They should be 1/2”. The power of the motor dictates the speed of recharge back to max pressure. And that’s it. A tank with 1000 gallon capacity might not even need a recharge during the entirety of your job, and would certainly make for the best consistency. Likewise, a two stage comp with 12 hp and only holding let’s say 10 gallons might do the trick but is a bad idea. I wish these guys would stress that the size of the tank is most important and that for car painting I’d say a 25gallon would be minimum. As it stands, my 2.7hp, 26 gallon compressor will maintain the same pressure at the regulator on my gun at all times, but even that is inaccurate, as the numbers are only a reference point.
I have a doubt, could we setup the spray gun to a table and instead of the hand release valve use a foot release valve for spraying stencils on a particular surface. Any ideas on how I could do it?
wow! not a lot of auto spray painters in this section. Nobody knows the gun he is using? Wow! Probably the very best auto finish gun on the planet, Iwata Supernova LS400 LVLP w/gold cap. The second very best gun on the planet for auto finish is the Iwata Supernova WS400. Of course that is my opinion.
I went to a pawn shop to price out paint guns and I noticed none of them have that pressure gauge on them . I was just wondering if that's an extra mandatory part to put on the gun or what's the deal with that gauge ?
You can purchase that separately -- you can usually find them for about $15 at Home Depot.
whats the difference between low and high pressure guns
Hi Mark,
an LVLP is low volume of air, not low pressure. It simply means that less air is required for spraying, meaning you can use a smaller CFM compressor.
would that 3 second rule apply to clear coat too?
Hi, yes. We find that this method applies to all types of paint compatible with this type of spray gun
Awesome man! thank you!
I done the 3 second horizontal trick but about a fist distance away from the surface using a LVLP gun, but the paint only stopped running when the fluid knob was wound nearly all the way in, and it was spraying to dry at that setting so was causing orange peel. does it have to be 10-12" distance from surface when spraying?, that just seem too far away when using an lvlp gun
What size tip are you using?
@@OHWPaint Im using a 1.4 tip
@@ObbardProductions Hi, LVLP stands for low volume AIR at low pressure, not low volume paint. If you are winding the fluid in, then that is shutting off fluid. Out on the knob is more fluid. Please text tech at 305-318-1468 so we can see what's up - thanks JJ
hi , thanks for this video , very instructive , please to tell me where to purshase for one spray gun like this in video
thanks
Hi Naoufel, we actually stock them online.... www.ohwpaint.com/collections/accessories/products/lvlp-spray-gun
if you can trade off some of the fancy camera shots for a better quality consistent sound signal
.... AND better (sharper) picture quality too - PLEASE.
so regardless of what your spraying... you dont go higher than 22 pounds ?
Do you have to have hardners and thinners if the paint is thin enough
How would you do that but for clearcoat?
which adapter 3m pps did you use?
Hi Randy -- we used a #2
What’s your distance from the surface?
10-12 inches
Hi may I know what Paint you were using in this Video?
www.ohwpaint.com
is a 80 gallon air compressor ideal for painting? that's what I got.
An 80 gallon air compressor is fine.
Heck the best paint jobs I ever done was on a 12 gallon compressor and Campbell hausfield spray gun
80 gallon compressor is plenty, even a smaller compressor would do the job just fine, the problem with smaller compressors is that you will not be able to spray non stop, you will be forced to stop and wait for it to keep up, for big projects like painting a car, a small compressor won’t do it.
Check for the CFM on your sprayer and match it with your compressor, also keep in mind that a 2 stage compressor pump is better than a single stage one as it fills the tank much faster.
No you need a minimum 1000 gallon.
Did u say u need a 13-14 hp compressor???? That is slightly overkill for most people lol and cost more than some of our cars!!!I have a 2.5 hp 20 gallon, and it's just right for my personal at home use. Maybe not good if I was doing cars, but most people watching a how to set up a gun video are probably not painting cars lolGood tips though, I'm new to this and learned a few tips I wish I new before I got messing around earlier!
sorry - 3-4!
man i was about to ask the same thing but i figured it was a over statement about the horsepower..
Do you think a 2.5hp, 9.5CFM compressor will be enough for home use for spraying lots of internal doors with a LVLP gun? I could step up to a 3HP V-Twin but it adds to cost and size.
I only use a around 3-5 for work and its plenty. Not for a whole car but definitely enough for little repair jobs
The Harbor Freight 21 gallon air compressor works just fine and it's only $150
do you have a spanish video tks God bless you
Trump says you are not allowed to paint.
KING TROLL ur weak af
TH-cam es para todos en de world not piece of shit usa
@@SOLDOZER Fuck you and trump
Do you ship to Hawaii?
Sorry we only ship in the contiguous united states.
@@OHWPaint and the search goes on...thanks for the reply🤙🏽
thanks
good for bigginner
My gun Aïr pressure is different from half to full pressed, is this normal?
It should be the same if it is half or full pressed. Once the air starts coming out, it should be the same.
what size compressor is best for small jobs
cant go wrong with a 15 to 20 gal
thank
you very much
Did he said 13 or 14 hp compressor
PLEASE note - what we meant to say was 3-4 hp not 13-14. Thanks for watching!
ممنون
1 2 3 lesson learnt cheers
13,14 horse power compressor?! No way!
That would be way more than you need.
5 RHP will suffice if it’s 60 gallons or more. 15 CFM at 100 psi should be good.
You are correct! We mention that in our comment above. Thanks for watching
My primer gun is heavy at the bottom fan. I thoroughly cleaned the parts. Im tossing the gun
Great video, simple and helpful. But please consider using a lapel microphone as the sound is not the best.
Did you mean 22 psi?
Hi - can you let us know the time mark of this so we can better help?
1:00 mark initial setup to 22lbs?
@@harleynut1961 yes -- 22 pounds per square inch
why not siphon feed?
Mark,
do you mean siphon from a pail of paint, or suction feed where the cup is underneath the gun?
yes suction feed under the gun
suction is more clumsy, as the cup can easily hit small parts while you're painting. Suction cups also don't use every drop of paint, as the feed tube can't reach the remaining paint. Also, suction cups are very laborious to clean
JJ
mark yisser Because it's not 1970 any longer.
joseph migliore Lol my thoughts as well.
Just started and having so many problems. From sraying too, to frog eyes.
Sounds like you have contamination issues
StinkyDog1971 yeah fiber glass in the paint booth. Which is not allowed. Unfortunately, it was a school booth so and im not willing to play hall monitor.
However, since this posting I've gotten a better handle on things
Super
you do not adjust the fluid tip, you should have said fluid control or material control.
sound pls
Good video bt wear mask
can anyone help me out i boughg a hvlp gun and i already have a compressor to match my gun i was given a gallon of acrylic enamel paint and i was told the way you set up your gun is different then all the other paints anybody know how to set up the gun?
bigger fluid tip like a 2.0
Gun
14HP compressor? Not necessary.
You are correct! We mention the human error in the description. Thanks for watching!
Muy interesante, pero de nada sirve subtitulada en Inglés... preferiría que fuera en español gracias
I want to please this lesson Arabic translator
Did you really say 13-14 hp air compressor? Try again, OHW Paint. That's some very serious misinformation.
We really did. It was a mistake. We've replied in the comments about the mistake but have added a note in the description as well. It should be 3-4hp. On that note, if anyone knows how to add text to a live video so we can fix this, we are all ears. Thanks for watching!
As long as you're aware. You're still good in my book. I've painted almost a dozen cars with a 5 hp DeWalt two stage 80 gallon compressor that I picked up last year with no issues whatsoever. I often don't read the comments of others for various reasons.
berapa.harga.spray.gun
wow...i was at 45 is pounds... way to much
A little bit of turd in your nozzle. 🤣
He said dirt, not turd!
Nobody likes a dirty nozzle,
thanks