Tutorial: How To Polish 2K clear to get a deep mirror shine!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2021
- #tutorial #tutorials #howto #model #polishing
A tutorial showing how I polish my 2K clear once fully dry. I begin this procedure around 24hrs after airbrushing the clear.
Warning: I always perform this procedure on 2K clear since it dries fairly hard due to the hardener. If you're using it on a 1K clear, you should be more careful with the sanding and polishing as it's softer and thus easier to sand through.
Video shows all the steps I take to remove orange peel and any dust inside the paint. Followed by actually polishing using 2 different automotive compounds with a rotary tool until getting the shine and depth I want.
Have a look and let me know what you think! If anything is not clear enough, feel free to ask by writing a comment. Also, let me know your opinion so that I could always improve my future videos.
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Video music:
1) Chris Haugen - Hero's Ascent
2) Unicorn Heads - Asleep with the Sun
Thanks for Watching!
Karl - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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That’s a good tip about taping off the shank on the rotary tool. I ruined my Mustang GT4 in a spot when it made contact. Also, don’t do this at your workbench as the fibers from the pad get EVERYWHERE! Great video my friend.
Thank you my friend, that is very appreciated James! Yes exactly that masking tape is important. On the LFA, the masking tape touched the body twice and no damage happened. If it wasn't covered, I'm sure the LFA had to go back to the primer stage! You are right about the fibers. That is the second reason why I go outside to polish. Better lighting + fibers can go where they like, not on my bench! In fact, in this video when I change the buffer for the fine compound and begin polishing, you can notice the fibers flying towards me! Thanks again for your feedback and viewing my video :)
Nice tutorial. Thanks for sharing
Thanks again Michael, very appreciated that you watch my videos and also leave your feedback ☺️👍👍
Great tutorial mate, awesome tip with the masking tape, so easily overlooked.
Thank you James, so glad you like :) Yes exactly, that masking tape can be a real time saver if it touches the body! Learned it the hard way after one time it touched a side-skirt and had to re-paint it. So from that moment on, I started making the masking tape and always tell people to cover theirs too!
Good Tutorial! very details well done =)
Thank you very much sir, for checking out my video. That is very appreciated and so glad you like ☺️👍
Great tutorial my friend !! :)
Thank you very much my friend, so glad you like my tutorial. Looking forward to see your builds with a nice deep shine :)
Fantastic work buddy 👌🏻 great to know about the direction too 👍🏻something I can use when I start using my rotary tool
Thanks for watching the video and leaving your feedback Chris, that's very appreciated. Glad you'll find my video helpful once you start using the tool then ☺️👍
Very interesting to see how this process is done..thanks for sharing.
Hello there Robert, thanks for viewing this video and leaving your feedback. That's very appreciated my friend 👍🏼👍🏼
Well done aw always bro how toos are very helpful from modellers like to for modellers like me to learn thanks for sharing my good freind keep up the good work, 👍👍Keith
Thank you once again Keith, your constant support towards my work and uploads is very appreciated my friend. I always try to keep my channel alive with fresh content, and your feedback really helps me. Well done for your work and channel too Keith, keep up the great work.
I have an LFA painted the exact same color! I prefer to use the foam polishing pads. A lot less chance of burning through. Still need to be careful on edges though regardless.
Thank you for your comment, that's very appreciated. This is a colour which I really like on an LFA, especially on the Nurburgring version. Glad you also chose the same colour for yours.
I fully agree with you about the foam polishing pads. I got mine recently and polished the Top Secret Fairlady Z using those and I really like the outcome. In fact, I'm planning another video tutorial using the foam ones instead of wool. Thanks for your feedback 👍🏼👍🏼
it looks so easy. i spend a loooot of time to polishing, 4000-6000-8000-10000, then 3x compounds . may be i use your way next time 😄
Thanks for your feedback Oleg. The last car I polished with the miscromesh system was the Skyline R33. Then I started using this method and never looked back. Still takes around 6 hours in all for me, but easier than the micromesh. 2K clear is automotive grade so I decided to use automotive polishes. 2500 takes care of the orange peel and dust while the compounds do the rest! Try it out my friend, it works ☺️ Thanks for watching 👍
Thank you for the video. how many hours from start to finish? Tks
Hi Ricardo, thank you for your feedback. I would say that the whole procedure took around 6 to 7 hours. 3 hours sanding + 1.5 hours each compound (average). The LFA has some sharp edges so I had to be really careful not to sand through. Easier and smaller builds, like the Honda Civic, took less time to polish. I think on the Civic I spent a total of 5 hours approx. Hope that helps and thanks again for watching.
Perfect timing I just shot 2k this morning on my model car where do you buy those polishing wheels thanks man Great video
Hello there, thank you for your feedback. That's very appreciated and I'm glad you like my work and video ☺️ The polishing wheels seen in the video were bought from ebay and AliExpress, just search for wool polishing wheels. However I'm not using them anymore because I found the foam ones to be even better. Have a look at this video where I'm polishing the body midway into the video and using the foam ones. th-cam.com/video/CUDHrDDprfA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9Mt-8fA27e6osNl6
Found them to get a better shine and less messy too. Just search for foam polishing wheels at the same shops above and you'll find them. In fact, I'm working on a new tutorial video using these instead ☺️👍🏼
Thank you
You're welcome, glad to be of help ☺️
Are u using new wool polishing buffers every time? Or do you wash them. And with what, of so?
Hello Ramses, I get these wool buffers quite cheaply from Joom or Ali, so I throw them away and use new ones. I use 2 on each build, one for the coarse compound and the other for the fine. However recently I'm not using them anymore. I bought the foam polishing sponges and found them much better. I'll do a new tutorial the first time I use them, which is very soon ☺️😀
Thank You for this, I was wondering about RPM you use on your rotary tool? Mine I can adjust from very slow or very fast. Where do you get the polishing wheels from please?
Hello there, thanks for your message. Regarding speed, I don't know the exact rpm value since my tool has a rotary switch from 1 to 7. Usually I work with settings 3 to 4. The important thing is that when you touch the polishing wheel to the body, you feel it working. Too much speed with make it blow all the compound away while too little speed will make the wheel slow too much on the body.. so you'll need to find the best speed for your set up. The polishing wheels I get them from ebay and joom. Search for rotary tool polishing wool. I just bought more last week from joom. Hope that helps ☺️👍🏼
@@KarlScaleModeling Thank You for the reply, I will check it out.
@@Aces_Eights_Scale_Vision Sure, no problem. If you need further information feel free to let me know.
How do you do with decals? Primer + base coat + 2k + polishing + DECALS + 2k + final polishing?
Almost ☺️ it's 2k primer, base coat, mist coats of 2k clear, sand smooth, apply decals, 2k clear (mist + wet coats), sand smooth again, polishing. Hope that helps 👍🏼
Hello, can i ask you a question? I use 2k clear but often its remaing just a litl bit flat ofter polishing. Its not really shine as i would like. I use automotive products, and i respect times as indicated on the boxes...
Hello Leon, sure you can ask. I'll do my best to help too. Having the 2k still a bit flat after polishing can occur due to several instances, mainly:
- You may be pressing a bit hard when sanding the clear smooth and/or the sand paper is a bit rough and some scratches produced are not being removed by the next polishing process.
- Polishing compounds are not good enough to fully remove the scratches done during the sanding process hence leaving a slightly dull finish.
It's great that you're using automotive products since 2k dries hard, but some more information about what you're using exactly will help me understand your procedure to help you further. For example, what sandpaper you're using to remove orange peel, what polishing compounds. If you're using them manually or with a rotary tool like me. Let me know so that I can help you even more.
Regards.
Great video thanks!! I can't quite seem to polish correctly but hopefully I can get it right this time!! Or my TVR tuscan won't look as good as I'm hoping😂
Hey, hello there ☺️ Thanks for viewing the video and leaving your feedback, very appreciated. A TVR Tuscan? Is it a diecast? The Tuscan had a lot of nice colours from the factory, you should make an extra effort and make it shiny ☺️ If I can be of any more help, let me know 👍
@@KarlScaleModeling thank you so much man! I love your builds! And I've made a few mods to my tuscan (formerly a jadi 1:18 diecast in black), mainly a body kit made entirely by me!
I should be posting a video when it's fully finished, but it's not a full in depth video, just a few pictures and time lapses👌
@@KarlScaleModeling car will be in a Ford GT colour, liquid red, an amazing deep metallic colour!
Oh wow, that sounds very interesting there my friend. Keep us all updated with the new video once you're done. The Tuscan is already a beast standard, very interested to see your creation. Fantastic colour you chose for it. The Ford GT has some amazing metallics and you did the right thing choosing that type of red. Thanks once again for your kind words about my work 👍👍
@@KarlScaleModeling I'll comment the link when it's ready! Thanks for your interest😊 hopefully it'll look like the monster that I'm imagining!
I messed up with k1k and 1180 clear coat in samurai
Sorry hearing that my friend, let me know how I can help. I'll do my best to try assist you 👍
Nice. How many coats of 2k clear do you apply?
Hello there, I usually airbrush 3 mist coats of 2k clear first, leaving 5-10 mins in between. Then I airbrush 2 wet coats, to make the finish shine right away and reduce orange peel. Hope that helps ☺️
Where did you get the wool polishing bits? Or how do i search for them?
I buy them from ebay or joom. Quite cheap too, a bag of 10 usually costs around 4-5 euros. I search for 'wool polishing buffers' and usually many show up. The latest bag I got from joom are also very good since I polished the Toyota Crown with them and had the same results. Hope that helps.
Just made a search and the best option is to write 'wool polishing buffers dremel'. Choose the round, puffed ones like I show in my video. The flat ones aren't as soft as the ones I use and cause scratches 👍
Everytime I try to do this I end up with micro scratches I can't get rid of, no matter how long I polish. I use the same polish wheel, and tamiya compounds, with 3000 grit sanding sponge.
Hi Petyr, thanks for watching the video and leaving your feedback. With this set up, I don't have micro scratches anymore. When I polished the Toyota 86, I used the same procedure but instead of automotive compounds, I was using the 3x Tamiya compounds and was left with micro scratches all around. On the next build, the Evo 7, I changed these for automotive compounds and noticed a big difference, a shinier deeper finish with no scratches. The Tamiya compounds are more suited for the TS13 clear. To me, 2k clear is automotive so it requires automotive compounds for the best results. Especially the red Autoglym, it makes a huge difference finishing with it. Regarding sanding, I use the one seen, simple 2500 automotive. Always sand with the least pressure with soapy water to avoid deep scratches. Sorry for writing long, just wanted to express my opinion and thanks again for your feedback 👍
@@KarlScaleModeling Thank you very much for the detailed reply! I'll definately give it a try!
No problem Petyr, glad to be of help. I'm no expert, but when something comes out right I like to share with others to help them achieve good results too. Once again, thanks for checking out my video 👍
I know I'm 2 years late since this was posted, but would the same steps apply to a diecast such as a Hot Wheels car?
Hello there, no problem about the old video! I'm still here so it's all good ☺️ This procedure could be used on various sprayed items, diecast included. But you have to be sure that the spray withstands the polishing procedures. This method works best on 2K clear, since it contains hardener and dries pretty hard. This will minimize the chance to sand through. Using it onto 1K clear, onto paint directly or onto the original diecast paints is not very recommended as these finishes are much softer and hence increasing the risk to sand through the paint. Hope that helps ☺️👍🏼
@@KarlScaleModeling sure did, and thank you for the reply/tips.
No problem, glad to be of help ☺️
How many RPM does Dremel have?
Hello there, my rotary tool has a speed setting from 1 to 7 and rated rpm is 5000 to 25000. I usually work at setting 2-3 so I'm guessing I work at under 10000 rpm. However this depends on the type of rotary tool being used together with one's personal choice of working speed. My friend has a real Dremel (mine is Parkside) and he works with lower speed than me since the Dremel barely slows once the buffer wheel touches the body. Mine slows a lot more with the friction. So you have to find the right speed for the rotary tool you're using. Hope that helps.
I need your help 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Hello there, sure we can chat elsewhere. You have the links to my social in the description. Feel free to message me, I'll do my best to help 👍