Nice video, ths technique is good, but would not work on 2k clear or other harder paints which need sanding and polishing with automotive cutting compounds.
That is a great question. There are many answers. If I only have a few decals I will apply them after clear coat and polishing. If there are many decals like a Rally Car, you would have to apply them before the clear coat. So it depends.
You want to clear coat apply decals and another coat of clear then polish. I don't know why he told you otherwise! Also the reapplying of all three compounds is just wasting the compounds
Using only fine will remove minor imperfections but will jot give you that gloss finish. Using only finish will not remove imperfections but give you a gloss finish. So its best to use both.
Wouldnt you use a small Cotton cloth towel for the larger areas and Q tip for recess areas ? I don't know I'm not saying I have the answer I'm just asking ? I just shot a car model last night AMT 1969 cougar eliminator in a tester's paint mixed with lacquer thinner. I definitely need to Polish it out because I have Orange peel. I don't know whether I should use the sanding kit and then use Polish at the end or could I just use Polish by itself ? I have tried the sanding/polished method but ended up rubbing through the edges of the hood and sharp edges of fenders. I thought I applied enough coats. Anyway, 👍to your video .
I’ve been using testors cans for paint jobs and testors extreme lacquer clear coat and very awesome results for semi cheap paint it’s okay but now I bought an airbrush and paint with small testors enamel jars and results are kind of the same but I have more choices of colors I can do and cheaper on the long run.. but can I use this tamiya compound on testors paint jobs? I’m soo happy now I’m thinking of moving to tamiya since it’s honestly better quality also alclad has some beautiful paint too especially their candy colors and different chromes and metals thanks for the awesome video man 🙏😎
Great video. So im using spray can clear, there are a few dust specs on the paint (not like the end of the world but its a bit annoying) and im not sure if the clear coat is thick enough (so im a bit scared to sand it). The sides of the car were shiny after the first coat, but roof was matt, after a second coat the roof was kinda shiny, but the sides became a bit hazy?(not so shiny) Was this because of "over spray"? and can i make it shiny using polish? Also if the course (red) and fine (blue) (tamiya) enough to give a shiny clear coat or is the finish compound necessary? many thanks
If its hazy it could be because it did not lay down and level out over the first coat. Also if its a commercial spray can they can have varied results. It could be polished out, vut very carefully. The finish compound gives that shiny glass look which the fine compound cannot always do.
im a noob but i dont see a difference between them. Sort of seems to me that model companies want to get us on the hook for stuff we dont need just to make a buck and keep us coming back for more. How do we know that all 3 tubes are not the same product, just in different tubes? I am just starting this hobby, is this hobby a money pit?
You are right, this video is quite old and I have learned over time. I still use an earbud on occasion as it still seems ro work, but use a microfiber cloth if u have one.
wow, so much bad advice on the internet no matter what the subject. Cotton buds and using a paper towel to wipe off that first lot of compound. seriously!
Am I wrong to say that when a modeler gets their car body ridiculously shiny it DOES NOT look scale. If I was on top of a 15 story building looking down at a real car with the sun shining off it , it wouldn't look that glass mirror shiny unless it was a custom paint job ? Its like metallic paints . They do NOT look scale. Lol I'm only trying to make excuses for car model builders like ME who do not want to put the time into making their builds like a heavily lacquer clear coated finish . Lol I'm on this channel cuz I just picked up the 2 Tamiya rubbing compounds and had no clue how to use them. There was another channel that used a dremel type tool with a cotton buffing wheel that made his finish like glass. Thats what I'm shooting for on certain car model projects. Not factory stock cars / trucks.
Nice video, ths technique is good, but would not work on 2k clear or other harder paints which need sanding and polishing with automotive cutting compounds.
Thanks for tge feedback, Ill keep that in mind for future projects.
Bollocks I've been doing this to my models with 2k the shine is remarkable. Zero paints are more automotive spec..
When sanding a surface, can one also use a circular movement, or is there a specific direction to go?
Nice video, I have a question on sequencing, Do I have to install decals, then clear coat and the polish or Clear coat and polish and then decal?
That is a great question. There are many answers. If I only have a few decals I will apply them after clear coat and polishing. If there are many decals like a Rally Car, you would have to apply them before the clear coat. So it depends.
@@ScaleModellingVideos thanks mate.
No worries
You want to clear coat apply decals and another coat of clear then polish. I don't know why he told you otherwise! Also the reapplying of all three compounds is just wasting the compounds
Hello. What if I will use only one type of compound? Fine or finish for example?
If your only going to use one thrn use finish. Using only fine will smooth out any small imperfections but will not give you that gloss finish.
Using only fine will remove minor imperfections but will jot give you that gloss finish. Using only finish will not remove imperfections but give you a gloss finish. So its best to use both.
Boa tarde, pode ser feito esse polimento em cima de qualquer tipo de tinta? E no verniz também posso fazer esse polimento??
Wouldnt you use a small Cotton cloth towel for the larger areas and Q tip for recess areas ? I don't know I'm not saying I have the answer I'm just asking ? I just shot a car model last night AMT 1969 cougar eliminator in a tester's paint mixed with lacquer thinner. I definitely need to Polish it out because I have Orange peel. I don't know whether I should use the sanding kit and then use Polish at the end or could I just use Polish by itself ? I have tried the sanding/polished method but ended up rubbing through the edges of the hood and sharp edges of fenders.
I thought I applied enough coats. Anyway, 👍to your video .
With testors paints I would wait a while before polishing them. You are right I should use a cloth, a microfibre cloth. Goodluck with your model.
He didn't want to rub through the pledge clear...so he buffed with Qtips.
I’ve been using testors cans for paint jobs and testors extreme lacquer clear coat and very awesome results for semi cheap paint it’s okay but now I bought an airbrush and paint with small testors enamel jars and results are kind of the same but I have more choices of colors I can do and cheaper on the long run.. but can I use this tamiya compound on testors paint jobs? I’m soo happy now I’m thinking of moving to tamiya since it’s honestly better quality also alclad has some beautiful paint too especially their candy colors and different chromes and metals thanks for the awesome video man 🙏😎
Is applying polishing compounds able to fix a bad gloss coat job? (Disparate glossiness)
Yes it will help
Do you apply your pledge with brush or airbrush?
With an Airbrush.
Great video.
So im using spray can clear, there are a few dust specs on the paint (not like the end of the world but its a bit annoying)
and im not sure if the clear coat is thick enough (so im a bit scared to sand it).
The sides of the car were shiny after the first coat, but roof was matt, after a second coat the roof was kinda shiny, but the sides became a bit hazy?(not so shiny)
Was this because of "over spray"? and can i make it shiny using polish?
Also if the course (red) and fine (blue) (tamiya) enough to give a shiny clear coat or is the finish compound necessary? many thanks
If its hazy it could be because it did not lay down and level out over the first coat. Also if its a commercial spray can they can have varied results. It could be polished out, vut very carefully.
The finish compound gives that shiny glass look which the fine compound cannot always do.
Nice tutorial brother
Thanks as always mate.
@@ScaleModellingVideos your welcome brother
im a noob but i dont see a difference between them. Sort of seems to me that model companies want to get us on the hook for stuff we dont need just to make a buck and keep us coming back for more. How do we know that all 3 tubes are not the same product, just in different tubes? I am just starting this hobby, is this hobby a money pit?
Isn't a cotton wool bud abit abrasive?
You are right, this video is quite old and I have learned over time. I still use an earbud on occasion as it still seems ro work, but use a microfiber cloth if u have one.
Shouldn't you use microfiber cloth? A q tip? No no
Hmm good point.Thanks for that. I will try that in future. I do use a fine kleenex to clean the surface each time.
Help! My polished model started screaming kurwa
wow, so much bad advice on the internet no matter what the subject. Cotton buds and using a paper towel to wipe off that first lot of compound. seriously!
Sir, do you have pet Parrots making noises in the background ? Just curious.
I have 22.
No just birds outside
Doing it twice would have me concerned of rubbing through the clear coat.
Am I wrong to say that when a modeler gets their car body ridiculously shiny it DOES NOT look scale. If I was on top of a 15 story building looking down at a real car with the sun shining off it
, it wouldn't look that glass mirror shiny unless it was a custom paint job ?
Its like metallic paints . They do NOT look scale. Lol I'm only trying to make excuses for car model builders like ME who do not want to put the time into making their builds like a heavily lacquer clear coated finish . Lol I'm on this channel cuz I just picked up the 2 Tamiya
rubbing compounds and had no clue how to use them. There was another channel that used a dremel type tool with a cotton buffing wheel that made his finish like glass. Thats what I'm shooting for on certain car model projects. Not factory stock cars / trucks.
This method is not the best I would use s microfibre cloth with Dremel tool as well