How to Make 3D Printed Rc Car Spare Parts that WORK!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ย. 2017
- In this video will I show you how to design and 3D print working RC car spare parts. It is really easy and the parts work really well if they are designed and printed right.
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This is the main reason I want a 3D printer. Love it.
+lawnmowerdude if you are interested in buying a 3d printer then please watch my reviews. I have one of a tevo tarantula and the Anycubic i3 mega
I'm glad you decided to whisper the entire video. Wasn't frustrating at all.....
Stfu
I really wish you had documented what plastics and 3d printer you had used in your description...
Thanks for the tips. Had some troubles printing out some arms flat because of the weakness on the hinge pin holes, but will now angle the parts.
Great info. This information will come in very handy once I start printing my discontinued Basher RZ-4 A-arms ad various accessories.
I would like to add a few insights from my experience in 3D printing parts in PLA
First, I have found that for parts that need more strength, increasing the Infill amount up to 100%. This will give much more adhesion strength through the entire layer, and hopefully result in a much stronger part (it has for me). This, of course, will also result in a heavier part, more material, and time.
The second is to increase the resolution of the print. It looks like you may have been using a 0.2mm layer height, which is fine for most applications. But I have found in my own printing, that reducing layer height to 0.1mm or even 0.6mm results in stronger layer bonds. I believe this may have to do with more heat from the nozzle pouring into the print as it passes repeatedly. Possibly ensuring proper bonding of layers, and most likely tempering the previous layers and relaxing tension trapped in them.
The parts I have printed using these additional tweaks have not only been significantly stronger, but also less brittle.
Just my two cents. Hope the info helps.
Brandon Sweatman thanks for your insight! Im looking to do this for my hpi savage x as parts are getting harder to find
What if the parts are for an rc tractor that won't be subjected to heavy impacts etc. The only thing it would be subjected to is possible small torque
@@darrentinman6994 Great question. All design principals would still apply, I'm sure. Putting any part under less stress, regardless of its material, will reduce the likely hood that the part will fail. And of course, there is a large scope of variables that go into how strong a part can be, such as part design, material strength, how it was constructed, etc.
I would say absolutely go for it and try it out. That's part of what this hobby/skill is all about, prototyping design. The worst case is you have a part that you cannot use, maybe it broke, didn't fit quite right, or you just feel the part could be better in some way. All that really means is you get to learn from the experience, and try again.
It's been a few years since my original reply I have noticed there are a few things that PLA isn't great at, Among the greatest is:
1. PLA doesn't handle long term stress well. It warps/deforms under constant force. I've made a few pieces that clip on and squeeze to hold position to things, and over a relatively short length of time, the parts stretched a bit under the force, thus making them less affective.
2. PLA is very sensitive to high/warm temperatures. Leaving PLA prints out in the sun on a warm day, or in your car, can often lead to a bad environment for PLA, and your print/s will deform as the temperature increases the pliability of the plastic.
ABS has strengths over PLA in these issues, but is more difficult to print with than PLA.
Hope this information was helpful! It would be fun if you shared the results of your tractor!
@@Designbyapro thanks for the reply. I am currently working on the design of parts I need. I have my diffs and motor (old drill gearbox) as well as the rough size. I have tried a few test parts however they where the wrong size for my project 🤦♂️ I also have a resin printer however I think I will use that one for the cosmetic side of things as I am not sure if the resin would hold up
I think there are also some settings where you can have the nozzle pass over each layer again to re-heat the layer a 2nd time without laying material before moving onto the next layer. Also, you can turn down the cooling fan with PLA to leave more heat in the previous layer before printing the next. However, you need to be careful that it's at least cooling enough not to sag.
Nice job, thanks for sharing! Really liked seeing your steps in F360.
Thanks for sharing this tips & guide my friend! Really helps us to understand more about printing our own rc part. Beautiful video making. Liked & subbed! Hope to see more of your work😁👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks this video I actually managed to make a working part that served as a good temporary replacement but the thing is how do you make a ball joint and position it in the right spot
thanks for sharing your experience, im planning to buy a 3d printer and build a rc trophy truck from zero. love designing stuff and watch it working
Good idea! I have already tried making a 99% 3d printes car, and I must say it is pretty challenging. I also printed the gears and drive shafts. With Pla, it is basically i possible if you want the car to be just kinda fast. Id recomend buying gears, driveshafts, bearings etc. You can make all the structual pieces no problem 👌
oh yea thats what i was also thinking, plastic wear out too fast to be used for power transmission parts. thanks for clearing this up
Good luck with the project
All I've ever wanted to know!
How durable is the material when on the car I was looking into doing the same thing but didn't know how it would hold
What printer do you use?
thank you I am thinking of a 3d printer, so its super important to own a calipar to take measurements, and that will get the replicated part to the Tee as seen here, and simply print out, can not be that hard, once done one correctly
Love the way you design, would you recommend any tutorial which focus on rc parts creating? Is the ABS filament the best for every part or would you recommend also PLA for some parts?
Thank you. I dont know other tutorials on this topic but I will make more tutorials in the future. Abs is sometimes better than Pla and vice versa. Abs can flex and therefore absorb harder impacts than Pla, but it can comprimise stiffness if used too much. I would go for a mix between the two
what about shock towers for a 1/10 scale rc buggy? will it work?
At work cant realy watch all of
It what is best filament to use for parts and best filament to use for Body going to be using it and 1/28 scale RC
Hey guys im finaly getting a 3d printer i have wanted one since i first seen this video come out. :) I am so happy to start in the 3d printing hobby. Specialy for the rc hobby im planing to pully print an 1/10 rwd drift car.
Can i have the stl file
For the Tamiya tt-01
So i can print it on
My own printer
You earned yourself a subscriber.
What software are you using to create the parts in?
Are CAD files standardized? As a beginner should I use Autodesk or FreeCad?
I know its been a while since you posted this video, but I'm getting ready to purchase a 3D printer and I'm just curious on your recommendations. Yes its for a beginner, but I want it for advance building. I'll be making Electronic project boxes and RC car parts (retro).
Gerald Manning i would recomend that you buy something like the Ender 3 or the anycubic i3 mega. I am still using the i3 mega to this day and it is awesome. Don't bother with these diy kits. Get something that os easy and reliable
What software did you use to make the parts
So cool!
Thank you!
So I can't get this video to load for me. Did you use PLA or ABS to do this?
for the parts that will be under more stress, make a silicone mold and cast in a stronger plastic
Good work man. That Fusion 360 seems works well. Clean.
+Stereo Studios Yes fusion 360 is very good and it is even free
Yea i just downloaded it but it says it's a 30 day trial?
+Stereo Studios you need to register as a student license. Google can tell you how
Good work dude
+RC Boosting Thanks buddy
Great video, can you go into more detail of designing and using the software?
+Justin I could make one more video about designing rc parts but I won't go into all details about how to use fusion. There are many great beginner tutorials on TH-cam that you can watch
you are totally right, just started following one last night called "Learn Fusion 360 or Die Trying", by
Paul McWhorter. I subbed to both of you guys. I'm trying to learn to make or duplicate 48p pinions and spurs.
+Justin those are hard to print, I have tried. You need nylon to have any chance of it to work. The teeth are so tiny
Can you post the software and printer you used ? Should include in details of the description believe I heared you call out the software.
👌 👍
Good good good good
🔥👍❤
Firstly: Good tutorial, sadly I don't own a 3D printer (jet :) ) but I'll try to make some spare parts using the software and send it to someone to 3D print it for me like you said
Secondly: I see you're also rocking the same brushless motor that I have :D
You can get printers for about $100 now. Learning to use it is another thing, well well worth the money and time spent IMO
Where do I download fusion 360?
Use nylon for best durability
Seems like an Resin Printer would suit this application better.
45 degrees angle to surface?
+Sergey Prokhorov I think it was 52. You will have to experiment with the angle to optimize the strength
I need to duplicate a model car part. If I sent the part I need a copy of, can you do it?
Do you have a 3d printer or will you need the part shipped as well?
I need to ship you the part. If you have an email address I'll discuss it.
Okay, it is karlemil.storm.koldkjaer at gmail.com
What 3D printer do you use
Anycubic i3 mega and Creality Ender 3
Karl-Emil Storm thank you
Karl-Emil Storm so which printer
Karl-Emil Storm or do you need both
You can use any 3d printer for this. I would recommend the Creality Ender 3 to anyone looking for a great, cheap printer
Hello @karl would you mind printing some parts for me to try out please for a car I have what support has been discontinued for ???? I would pay for them an agreed price and shipping.......I am from uk ......is this possible ?? Would you be willing to try ??
+Lance Osman yes sure I can try, but I will need some quite accurate measurements of the parts you need
ok i will try to find the dimensions of them.....it is front arms for an xtm excellerator nitro car
Alright if I have the needed measurements then it will be easy to model and print.
I'm not following so instead of going up and down the part you go diagonally? I'm completely new and my printer comes tomorrow. But I mainly bought it just for RC parts. also there's a few parts where I can't hear you over the music let me watch the video again and I will message you what I can't understand
Please send cad file
ABS or PLA
I printed in PLA because my printer isn't able to print ABS properly. I would pick ABS if I had the option
Nylon
@@Karlemilstorm use PETG. If you had a good printer, you could print in nylon, which off-road rc basher manufacturers use. (the kind of cars that get launched 4 meters into the air)
I print functional PLA parts at 220-225°C and they are so strong that you can't break them with your bare hands.
What other settings do you use? Mine have a tendency to break at the holes/ round ring shapes on the outsides of the parts, the holes where the screws go through. Nut much material there so it's the weakest part. Using PLA at 210 C.
@@ryanm.4892 I print most parts with 3 perimeters and 25% infill.
When there are holes that need to take a lot of abuse, I try to make sure there's at least 2-3 millimeters of material around it.
@@Sven_Hein that doesn't mean much for an rc car. Some RC Cars use high quality nylon, which results in for example a arms that I can't break hitting them FULL ON with a hammer in a vice in the direction they're loaded in a crash. It's insane. But it's also kinda needed when jumping a car that weigs around 5 kilograms 5 meters high so yeah xD
Interesting video thank you, just please try not to whisper because its really hard to hear you over the music
Thank you. I will keep that in mind
Very good video but you speak very low and the music is too loud.
I wish i had a 3d printer :|
PLA is harder that ABS
Pla is more stiff but that doesn't make it more though than abs
Pla is the worst material for.anything rc. Not strong enough and the glass point is too low and sunlight breaks it down fast and any part under constant load of any kind will quickly deform and pla has a pretty short lifespan after printing in general. Abs sucks too. Nylon is the business if your machine can handle it. If it cannot petg is an excellent alternative. Petg is my favorite of the common filaments for sure.
More in death tutorial please
I'm sure this was in informative video but I wouldn't know because I couldn't hear shit over the awful music.
Why are you whispering?
Informative video but your voice was putting me to sleep. Try to be a little more energetic!
+Tyler Jones okay I will try that
Nah, people shouldn't worry about your voice and tone. Don't need to go out of your way to correct the format of your speech to fit anyone else's preference. Just as many people or more supply their own energy and don't require a specific way of talking to help with their narcolepsy. People can bump their music in the bg if they're lacking a sufficient source of caffeine. Speak-Free