Create Perfect 3D Resin Prints by Finding the Optimal Layer Exposure Time
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2024
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Full article with all STL Files - core-electronics.com.au/tutor...
Understanding exposure test models means you can nail the exposure time for your printer-resin combo. This is the secret to producing crispy 3D prints that capture every single detail of the original design. This is the Fourth Episode in our Resin Printing Series.
Related Information
How To Change Your Layer Heights When Resin 3D Printing (Next Episode) - core-electronics.com.au/guide...
How To Slice Models For Resin 3D Printing With Lychee Slicer (Third Episode) - core-electronics.com.au/tutor...
How To Complete Your First Resin 3D Print (Second Episode) - core-electronics.com.au/tutor...
Getting Started with Resin 3D Printing and Tools (First Episode) - core-electronics.com.au/tutor...
Multiple Colours on a Single Resin Print - core-electronics.com.au/tutor...
Hot Trick When Replacing Your FEP Sheet - core-electronics.com.au/tutor...
Colourise 3D Printer Resin using Alcohol Inks and Pearl Ex Powder - core-electronics.com.au/tutor...
If you have any questions about this content or want to share a project you're working on head over to our maker forum, we are full time makers and here to help - coreelec.io/forum
Layer Exposure Time determines the light exposure duration for a single layer of an object that you are trying to print. Unlike filament printing (where it can feel like there is an almost endless amount of settings that you must know about for perfect 3D prints) resin 3D printing has much simpler dials to adjust up and down. And the most crucial dial is Layer Exposure Time and its wrong adjustment is one of the major reasons why resin 3D prints fail. It is all about finding that sweet spot. The best way to test for and find the correct Layer Exposure Time for your set-up is to print a couple of exposure test models with your Resin 3D printer at different exposure amounts. You can adjust the exposure settings directly through your 3D resin printer user interface (UI) or in your slicing software. Under-exposing or over-exposing can really cause havoc with the resin printing experience. Too long exposure will result in light bleeding and scattering deep through the resin material resulting in a loss of intricate details and dimensional inaccuracy. Too short an exposure will create an under-cure result. Under-curing can be identified by several factors such as layer de-laminations in the middle of the part, serious loss or miniaturisation of intricate details, general poor model adhesion to the build plate, or the worst, the entire model falling off the build platform. Bottoms layers are the first few layers that are exposed to UV light in your model and bottom layer exposure times are always longer than normal layers exposure times. They are exposed longer so that the model can adhere more securely to the build platform.
As a general rule for Normal Layer Exposure Time use 0.5-5 seconds for Monochrome Screen Printers and 2-20 seconds for RGB Screen Printers. Another good rule of thumb to follow is to set the Bottom Layer Exposure Time to be 8-12 times longer than the Normal Layer Exposure Time. This is a good generally but make sure to keep the bottom exposure time lower than ~30 seconds.
Core Electronics is located in the heart of Newcastle, Australia. We're powered by makers, for makers. Check us out if you are looking for:
LD-002H UV 3D Printer: core-electronics.com.au/catal...
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0:00 Intro
0:12 What is Exposure Time
0:31 Results of Bad Exposure Settings
1:02 Validation Matrix Overview
1:30 Decode the Matrix
2:27 Exposure Setting Location in Lychee Slicer
3:36 Setting Location in Chitubox Slicer
3:45 Validation Matrix Spectrum
4:50 View of Perfect Model Result
5:14 Overexposed Model Result
5:39 Underexposed Model Result
6:45 Bottom Layers (Burn in Layers) Settings
7:24 Do some testing!
7:55 Exposure Setting Location through UI
8:12 Make:Rook Calibration Test Piece
8:52 Print Your Dreams!
9:07 When To Run Exposure Tests
9:40 Extra Tips
10:11 Outro
![[Vowel]물고기는 물에서 살아야 해🐟🤣Fish have to live in the water #funny](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3G9MH063Cx4/mqdefault.jpg)
We are from Siraya Tech, and we always enjoyed your videos. This particular video is very helpful for many new users. . We also like to share that XP2 is great for brittle/hard model resin but can have issues with more flexible resins, including Fast abs-like and tough resins like Blu. This is likely due to the xp2 model is too easy to print, and that flexible resin often has a wide printable range that would make it very hard to judge. So a 1.5s may look just like a 3s one, but 1.5s may have a problem printing a real world print model. Several attempts have been made to address this aspect of the XP2 model, and we have shared this finding with the amazing Photonser who created the XP2 model.
Love your resins
Wish I could love your resins but we can't get none in Brazil. Still respect your brand tho, only read good things about it around the internet
I have nothing but failures with the mono 5s with the anycubic resin. I just started a new print with Sirayatech after installing your settings file for the resin. Well see what happens.
siraya tech leading the industry :)
Thank you very much. I've been having problems with getting a mixture of resins to work right. Now that I have this and knowing that my mono goes by 0.1 seconds instead of 0.5 seconds helps me a lot. Much appreciated.
Incredible intonations, thanks for being easy understandable and straight to the point, no rubbish.
As someone new to 3D printing, this was very helpful. Thanks!
As a newbie, I find your videos both highly informative and easy to follow. Thanks a bunch Tim for making the content. Keep up the great work.
Very glad to hear! And I'll keep my head down 😊
Thank you for this video. Great tips. Explaining things others never take the time to explain. For newer users like myself all these numbers a settings are greek to me, all these crazy offsets x,y,z, , bottom / top, speeds, off times, etc is just insane, however after you finally taking the time to explain this I'm actually getting results, I kept over exposering, constantly having to replace damaged fep which is a constant set back, so thanks.
So useful and so organized. Many TH-camrs I've consulted about printing are not as good at instruction as you are. You deliver the content without a lot of filler. In fact, I would call your lesson "well-calibrated". Good show.
Cheers champ! 😄
Waiting for my resin printer to arrive, but this is a very useful and important video, many thanks for making it and I will definitely perform the tests you presented to find the optimal settings to preserve detail for each resin I plan to use
This video alone was exactly what I needed thank you so much, I have looked through heaps of videos but none break it down like this.
😊😊 Cheers mate!
Thanks! This was very informative and easy to follow. I'm just getting into SLA printing after being involved with FDM for over a decade and finding out quickly that there is a nice little learning curve, so thank you for helping to flatten that curve for me.
Rock on mate 😊 thanks for your kind words! Resin printing is an awesome world, hope all the best for your future prints.
I love this channel! Great videos brotha keep making more!
I feel like I just sat through a TedTalk made just for me. Your natural speaking tone, efficient script, and the information presented of course, were a damn masterclass in educational videos.
Both as a healthcare instructor and 3D printing hobbyist, thank you very much!
Thank you very much for your kind words! New videos all the time so come subscribe if you'd like 😊
As always, consise, clear and very knowledgeable
Thanks for the detailed, fast and very easy to understand explanations!
My pleasure 😀
You made it so clear and easy to understand.
Just got yourself a subscriber.
Looking forward to watching more of your videos
Yayay 🙂 Hope your having a swell day!
Thankyou so much, ive been having so many issues with my new Halot Mage, your video was very easy to follow
What an excellent video. I've been printing for some time but still get confused by these various settings and exposure time. Thanks for such a clear concise explanation. Really well done and I appreciate you taking the time to make and post this video.
Big thanks mate 🙂! More on the way.
This the best explanation I have been able to find. Thanks so much.
Thats all good mate 😄
About to get an Saturn S and knowing these things help so much.
Thank you Tim, extremely helpful video!
The Cones of Calibration work way better for dialing in the exposure time, they give a real easy to "read" result and tuning becomes really easy! (just a tip for those watching this later on)
Awesome video. Thank you! Very very informative to a resin printing newbie like myself.
My pleasure 😊 thank you for the comment
Great video! It's just what I needed.
EXCELLENT INFORMATION! THANK YOU SIR!
Thank you for this video! I've got close to 1000 hours of FDM print experience, but I just recently picked up a MSLA resin printer and had some questions. This cleared everything up for me.
Very happy to hear 😊 Hope you get right into resin 3D printing some radical models.
This is EXACTLY what I needed. I haven't touched my creality in months because I couldn't get my times proper. (I'm using clear resin) so thank you so much.
Suuuper happy to of helped 😊 hope you back on track now printing beautiful models
I feel u man when i first used clear blue i had the same exposure settings as the grey resin that came with my mars 2p and uhh… yeah not fun lol set me back a bit
Absolutely Flawless presentation on a pretty complex subject. You are really good in front of the camera and awesome voice. Stay in television and keep going with it homie.
Naww ❤ Big love! Cheers for that comment mate, made my day! - Tim
I've had an FDM printer for years and finally decided to invest in a Resin Printer, and this video helped me understand more about resin-calibrations than any of my other research (weeks of looking). Thank you so much!
Yay! My pleasure mate, glad to of helped 😊
same. I posted in a facebook group about recommended settings people could share and the majority of them were morons basically telling me to figure it out myself/“no shortcuts in this hobby”(🖕🙄 to them). There was maybe one or two people that commented on the post that actually provided guides like this one here. Some people are meant to be teachers by how natural it comes to them to explain things in a way people can understand and their sheer amount of attention to detail as well as patience. Other’s need a whole separate course on people skills and how to teach effectively, because they know nothing of humility with the amount of arrogance I got from comments like that. We join these groups/forums and conversations to learn from one another not just gloat about how amazing a job we did getting something to print correctly. Anyway, after seeing this well put-together video I’m subscribing. Thank you!
this video will be very helpful for me. thanks
Great explanation, thanks for the good content!! :D
all the information here is gold jerry, gold!
WOW! Impresive information
Finally an expert who is able to explain complex 3D issues to new users like myself- absolutely brilliant!!! Thank you
So glad you dig it 😊!
holy moly, what an excellent video! i don't even have a 3d printer and that was like perfect!
Haha yay! Cheers mate 😄
great, thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you so much. This vidéo was really helpfull. Clear explanations. Well made video.
Cheers mate 😊
Thank you for this video. I ran the basic test piece that came with my Photon Mono SE and used the vase layer setting on the box of my resin. I've now seen that a) the setting I settled on is way over exposed, and b) that this over exposure is part of the reason it feels like I need a jackhammer to get my prints off of the bed.
My pleasure and cheers for sharing you experience 😊
I have to say, this is the single most helpful video on resin 3D printing for newbies like me ive seen yet 👌
Happy to hear that!
Fantastic Vid, thank you so much
Best presentation band explanation of exposure settings , specially with the subtle details such as mono vs RGB, and the 10x factor for bottom later exposure (is this common?) , great stuff I will be referring back to this video often for remembering technical details ,
Cheers mate, for everything I have resin printed this is a good general rule but make sure to keep the bottom exposure time lower than ~30 seconds. Any higher and the printer will get too hot.
@@Core-Electronics beauty, beauty
So very helpful! Thank you! I have been printing ball jointed dolls and the ends of the arms/legs are printing very thin and the heavier pieces like the head cap and the joints dont even stay on the plate and fail to print completely. I am going to calibrate my exposure times and see if this helps!
Love your video style. Could you do a start to finish guide on crystal clear prints?
extremely useful video, Thanks a lot !
My pleasure mate 😊
I appreciate this dawg!
Same 3D Printer and same resin as you used in the video, and 1,7 exposure for me was just horrible
I found that 2,9 - 3,0 is the right settings for me
Thanks for the tips
Wow, I wish i knew this before starting to print, would be good if this was mentioned/included in printer manuals. Defs gonna do this now. Ive been trying to compensate my slightly enlarged prints manually in the CAD files and I've had lots issues of under/overexposure particularly with clear resin.
I downloaded the test print and got it perfect the first time. Surprised the hell out of me since I was trying out a 50/50 mixture of two different resins with Cabosil also mixed in for strength. I now have the strongest and sharpest test print ever printed.
Sweet! The idea of putting Cabosil into the resin is such a rad idea. Have you noticed significant strength increase?
I just printed the XP2 validation benchmark. 100% accuracy.
the fine lines did not wash away on my print, manually dunking in IPA, waiving it around with my fingers.
This is the first video of yours that I have seen and shall look forward to others that you do. I've owned a resin printer for less than 2 days and NOW I realise why the exposure time is so important and what the difference is between a Normal and Bottom layer. Your suggestion of a c.10x increase in exposure time to establish the bottom layer is invaluable. I'm also grateful to you for explaining why manufacturers deliberately 'over-cook' (so to speak) the exposure time to begin with. Not a conspiracy, but a guarantee that models produced will definitely work and so lend confidence to the newbie owner (i.e. me).
So very many thanks for this wonderful insight. Forgive a naive question, but I notice that my Photon Mono 4K has a very similar appearance to your Crealtity (other than the obvious difference in colour to the UV casing). Are they the same or sister companies, I wonder?
Very glad to of helped 😊 more videos on Resin Printing in the pipeline too. In regards to similar appearance this has to do with them utilising very similar technology and implementing it in a similar manner. This implementation is by far the most common way to print resin currently, you'll see many machines with similar appearances made by many manufacturers, and is now referred to as 'traditional resin 3D printing' (this technology is so young using the word traditional does seem a little silly).
If your curious there are many different ways/methods to 3D print resin, take this machine here which has a very novel resin printing method - www.fabbaloo.com/news/rocket-1-fast-and-accurate-resin-3d-printer
Thank. you. for. your. video. !!!!!
very informative, good job keep it up
Cheers mate 😊 will do my best
Great video ... thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Good info
Intriguing! What were your power settings? 100%?
Thanks for the explanation. I'm confused whether the exposure times should be set on my 3d printer or in my slicer. Do I do both?
Tolerance compensation is for this exact problem. Chitubox has this feature and I use it all the time.
as usual, amazing video by you. a+ presentation. thank you for providing the link in the description too! question, where might we possibly be able to find that gengar in the begining of your video??
Aww cheers mate 😊 the STL link is near the bottom of the Full Written up article, I'll post it here for you - www.thingiverse.com/thing:5028132
Thanks for your sharing
😊
Literary theory video I was looking for (:
very useful thank you
Glad it was helpful!
im late to the party but this is an amazing video! I kept getting failed prints with my anycubic photon mono x2 using anycubic clear resin and manufacturer settings (2.5 sec exposure time). I suspected that it was to low exposure and wow did this test validate that! I still need to dial it in, but i should be between 3.0 and 3.5!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for this video, I'll definitely run more tests! Do you think the 10x for bottom layer works for water washable resin too? And how many bottom layers do you suggest?
My experience with water washable resin is limited but I would treat it the same and follow my general rules for normal resin. So I'd have 8-12 bottom layers and a bottom exposure time that was 10x normal layers.
Just Brilliant 👍🥰
Big love 💖
This is a great video thanks, the only thing I would add is ,3d printing pro made a video explaining why more than 4 burn in layers doesn't really make a difference
I'll have to check it out, my experience has been more burn in layers has resulted in better model stiction to the buildplate.
THANKS!!!!!!!!
Try the 3DRS Starship Calibration test over this one for real world usage!
The most detailed printing advice I've heard so far. Thanks. What can cause the problem that the printed model is rich in detail but does not harden but remains soft, even if I shine it with UV light. Thank you for your answer
There are different types of resin. Some newest types are flexible and even after curing they will remain flexible. If this is happening to your rigid resins I'd recommend hitting them with even more UV light or getting a new batch of resin. After a couple of months of the bottle being opened the Resin gets old and then can produce weird results.
I'm here because I want to create my own pokemon toy collection... thank you I learn something today..
The ambient room temperature and the temperature of the resin is also important.
Spot on, checking and updating your profile as the seasons changes is a good tip, but a random wild weather day can certainly throw your results for a loop.
Ohhhh
I recieved a printer for Christmas Christmas was trying to print stamps for clay but my design was getting muddled together
I didn't know I could deviate from the options on the resin bottle
I might be a bit late to the party! but amazing video very clear explanations about the exposure times one of the best videos on youtube. I do have question tho! i have been looking for videos about the Halot one combined with Elegoo water washable resin 405nm. I cannot seem to find anything on youtube or the internet. I was hoping you could help me out with this, like the proper exposure settings. I have been messing around with the exposure times for the WW resin for about 2 weeks now and i cannot for the life me find the correct exposure settings.
Thank you for your very kind words 😊 and Elegoo water washable resin isn't one I have used yet. Is the process outlined in the video not working for your set up?
This is great information, I just received a creality printer so will fine tune it.
However where does one find this Gengar print?
Here's the link to the Gengar model
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5028132
helpful !!
Waw, this was interesting !
Glad you think so!
Question, do I have to change the settings on the printer and the software or just on the printer?
Im using anycubic photon mono with anycubic resin. I ve just found 3s exp time recently. Is it okay? I used resin xp2 validation matrix and printed perfectly.
are there any other settings that needs to be tested and changed as well? as ecposure time
i printed an absolutley perfect rook with 2.5, using the mars 2 pro and there grey resin. seems i got real lucky rite out the box.
Happy days 😊!
hi, do we need to adjust the exposure time for different layer height? say, 0.03mm, vs 0.05mm.
Dear friend. Congratulatios for ths video! Very helpfull! The setting for the LD-002H, is for all Creality Resin? Thank You. Pedro. Portugal.
Thanks mate 😊 the settings I found here was for my LD-002H 3D Printer and Grey Creality Resin Combo.
I highly recommend running these tests for your own machine as exposure time is dependent on all kinds of factors, even climate. I reckon your Portugal summers would be different than our Australian ones. Take care!
@@Core-Electronics thank you.
I will try. I brought the black resin from creality. Let's get some tests.
The Cones of Calibration!
Proper interesting! I'll give these Cones of Calibration a good looksie 😊 Thanks.
Thanks for the recommendation to this video. What would you consider to be the optimal times to wash and cure on the post processing? Since you state IPA kills the most tiny details and curing could also cause overexposure?
Would you share some recommendations on the optimal time spent washing and curing please?
Thanks again for all your wisdom
I'll hit each module for 10 minutes in the IPA Wash station at low. Then I'll hit the models with 5 minute cure at slow speed, rotate the model so the bottom faces up, then do another 5 minute cure. After that it should be all good to go 😊 If it still feels tacky I hit it with 5 more minutes of curing.
Still got all them lines on the model there I wouldn't call that perfect! This is exactly what we are trying to find how to solve these build mesh lines that are printed on the model I see them all over the body there the details are great but the step lines are still there!
What resin is that nice purple gengar? I have trouble finding purple resin
interestingly i have the same printer as you but needed to actually increase the exposure time to 3.8s to get supports to stick, with the anycubic "rapid" resin.
Proper interesting to know, goes to show the big differences between different brands of resin (when out of the box and poured into the VAT they can look exactly the same)
do you need to scaled to fit build plate? with Validation_Matrix
I get same problems with typical over exposure and under exposure. Bits overlay too much and also thinnest details are missing or partial. Struggle with setting PWM light and right exposre time
Can you solve my problem i am a jewelry and i use anycubic M3 Premium my almost print fail due to bad exposure setting plz can you suggest me the best exposure setting for my 3d printer for jewelry wax
Would any of this change when using an 8K resin?
Hi! Nice video. But now I have a question. Do I have to put an exposure time to the bottom layers to make this test print or just with the exposure time of the normal layers. For example. Normal layer 1.7 s and Bottom layers 0 s? or Normal layer 1.7 s and Bottom layers 17 s?
Thank you mate 😉 Print the exposure tests with 4 bottom layers and like in your example use 17 second bottom layers and 1.7 second for normal layers.
10x is very high for bottom layer, I use 2.0 sec and bottom only 8-10 sec, for a loooong time and never fail.
Hi friend, im new and having a lot of problems, im using the same resin, but using halot box slicer. Can you help me with the settings? Please.
What about the instructions on the bottle of resin, for example I'm trying out the Elegoo ABS and they recommend 8sec normal exposure & 60sec bottom exposure. How accurate are these settings when printing.
Resin Manufacturers, much in the same way as Printer Manufacturers, want your first couple of 3D prints with their material to be successful. This means normally providing settings that are over-exposed, so that you won't have models falling off the build platform.
I haven't done experiments with that particular resin but to me those numbers seem large for a Mono-screen Resin 3D printer. I would definitely run test on it with my particular printer before committing to large or intricate prints.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks for getting back, I also thought those settings were a little over the top however after a few test prints they seem about right for my 28mm prints.
I'm using Anycubic mono X with their basic resins in a light color. My perfect print settings (on a new printer) were: UV light strength @70%, 1.5 sec exp time, 6 bottom layers, 35 sec exp time. After 50 hours of print I started getting underexposed prints so I upped UV light strength to 75%, everything else stayed the same.
Still getting perfect prints. I change FEP sheets every 25 hours of print time or so. I printed about 5 liters of resin (printing mostly full build plates).
Cheers for sharing mate 😊 love hearing success stories and your experience with your machine over time.
Hi,great video,but I’m pulling my hair out,when I go to settings on halot one on lychee,I have very few parameters to adjust,simply volume ,screen and default transition layers,there are other settings to adjust on the printer screen,but nothing to compare what you are showing,getting to the point of giving up
Just had a look for you and your absolutely right, the options available with that machine are less than they should. If you set up the Halot (LD-006) 3D printer in the Chitubox Slicer all the settings you would expect are there. So I'd recommend using Chitubox with that Printer until Lychee updates itself.
How are you putting them into the slicer? flat on the bed or at an angle with supports?
Flat, set the base layers to 4 and it's relatively easy to remove from your build plate despite being large surface area.
After the first Matrix was done printed and removed from the Platform, Do I have to Level it again or is it possible to print the next exposure test right after that?
Once you have leveled the platform once your good to go. It is good practice to do so once every 6 months, but so long as those screws (that you tightened to level the build platform) are still tight the build platform will still be level.
Hope that helps 😊
I've been using this method for my first three prints and ended up with the gap/ hole / whatever you want to call it seen in your over exposed test strip ( on the left half of the infinity symbol ) at time stamp 5:18, I moved the print to the left side of the build plate and ended up with perfect results using the same exposure settings for the burn in and the regular exposure time. Does this indicate I need to recalibrate my build plate 0 settings for the Z axis or something to do with exposure that I just need more test runs for to dial in the perfect exposure settings? Also thanks for the great video it helped me make the plunge into the world of resin printing !
It's hard to say, you may need to re-level and home the build plate, which if you haven't done recently is a good idea to do anyway. But you might be experiencing the different levels of UV intensity that occurs further away from the center of the screen. Since the UV light is not emitted from the screen but by a LED die underneath, the edges of the screen receive slightly less light than the center meaning that your exposure times would be slightly different at the edge.
@@Core-Electronics It did end up being the leveling, Thanks for the help !
I would appreciate if you could show me your table settings.
If you pause the video at 2.50 you will be able to see all the other settings I used for the prints here
Does this apply to water-washable resin as well? they are trying to say 60s burn in and 8s normal layer. Idk if the composition is different or something by my prints so far are basically glued to the build plate and damn near impossible to remove without alot of working it. I'm order a flex plate so that won't matter soon but one of my prints were so welded on that it damaged parts of the plate trying to remove it.
Got the same problem but I don’t think it's the resin it's the files settings because the test models I've got work really and get off the plate easily...
Having a flex plate is definitely the best solution to removing models. 60 second burn in seems too long to me, that length of time would get the resin and tank pretty hot, particularly on Monochrome Screen Printers. I have not used water soluble resin however I would run some test using significantly lower Burn in layer times.
If careful a razor blade is the perfect tool to lift up an edge to then get the metal spatula underneath to remove the printed model.
@@Core-Electronics Thanks! My flex plate just came in, and yea after talking to a facebook group more about it I ran some of your tests and found around 40 sec bottom and 4.5 normal exposure seem to be pretty close for the water wash. I'm having issues now with prints with supports just getting peeled from the supports but I think that my fep sheet is ruined so I bought some ptfe lube and new sheets, hoping that fixes the problem as I even tested it with a ton of supports and its still getting ripped off. instead of a thump it sounds like a bandaid getting peeled off.
Sir the layer is not printing on the print bed suddenly can you tell me what is the problem