11sp to 12sp is actually a great upgrade - the change in gear ratios was huge. Rear cassette of 11-34 means that a lot of riders moved to a front chain ring combo of 54-40 or even 55-40. That additional flexibility is massive for performance compared to running 11sp with 11-30 and 53-39.
It's the tighter gear ratio riders are looking for. But even having 2 more teeth in the big cog can make a difference by using bigger chainrings. I still need to upgrade my 10 speed. Too many gaps.
I work with a consultant for Ferrari, who worked and developed Formula 1 engines for over 40 years. I asked him about ceramic bearings in a bicycle, his answer was, is there anything on a bicycle that does over 10,000 rpm? I'll listen to him over marketing campaigns.
Aka dish washing liquid soap. Yeah don't pour it into your bearings, but put it on a soft bristle brush and give everything a good scrubbing, nothing will be hurt.
I remember when kooks warned your bike would be ruined by using DAWN dish soap...despite it being the #1 choice of all the pro team mechanics who could get their hands on some. Finish the job with a wipe-down with.....horrors....furniture polish.....oh the humanity!!! :-) But the various snake-oil salesmen don't make any money if you use that stuff so what would you expect them to say? They'd much rather you buy 16 oz of polish/wax from them for $40!!! They're not stupid but maybe they think you are?
One thing not mentioned about those 3D printed honeycomb saddles are what they do to your shorts. They'll start pilling way sooner, than with a smooth saddle, so I don't run it anymore, and there's no lose in comfort.
I changed tubes and tires on my bike, I went from "Vittoria Zafiro" to "Schwalbe One", and from butyl tubes to TPU ones. I cut almost half a kilo off the bike just with that. valuable upgrade
Same. The move from butyl to TPU (including the tube in my saddle bag) took half a pound off my bike and made the ride more supple. It's one of the smartest upgrades one can make, IMO.
Can tpu tubes be patch up with the same patch kit used on butyl tubes? Kinda wanna go for it but my godforsakened place is a hellhole for getting flat tires
@@ryujin9727 Some TPU tube manufacturers add their patch kit. It is a strip of the same tpu material with glue in it and a tissue soaked in cleaning alcohol. I have mixed results in the road fixing them, but 100% success of repair at home with clean hands and tube.
@@ryujin9727 In theory yes, I put them on a few weeks ago and I still haven't had a flat, nor have I ridden enough, my tubes came with their patches, which I don't know if they work as well as the classic ones. Everyone on TH-cam says yes, I hope I don't get a flat and in that case the patches work.
Dropped and lost my cheap sunglasses on way from East Ham to beyond Richmond for a work meeting. Popped into a bike shop in Richmond, cheapest sunglasses were £120 - ten to 15 years ago. Running shop across the road had some runners' eye wear for £20 that got me home. But here's the story: that fancy bike shop mentioned about someone changing their DuraAce rear mech because there was a small, barely noticeable mark on theirs and they were due to do the Etape in a week or two. I asked about parts bins but was told they are not allowed to sell off old bits. As I left, a Porsche 911 came out of the side alley with an exotic bike strapped to the back. Different world!
the other day Francis tested aliexpress glasses with an UV thingie and they all passed, then tried the "cheap glasses shatter and you will impale your eyes", and they also didn't shatter and in the end the video was just an unsatisfying half assed conclusion because the legs of the cheap ones broke a little bit more than the oakleys
I used to work in a well known bike shop, all those 'old bits' found their way into my garage. All was well until the police came with a search warrant. I had legit excuses but my mum wasn't happy.
I bought my first bike two years ago (Specialized Allez Elite). All I've changed about it in two years and 6,000+ miles is power meter pedals, Gatorskins for general use, and GP5000 for race use. Next year, I'm planning on getting a bike fit, and maybe handle bars and/or saddle based on the fit. I don't really care about trying to save weight or improve the aerodynamics of the bike itself while I'm still improving so much as a cyclist.
I couldn't agree more about the oversized pulley wheels. I would be shocked if they even had a 3 watt gain, I was thinking more .3. The other thing I would add - what type of biking do you do? Are you riding for fun? Distance? Racing? This affects what upgrades make sense.
Same here -- it also amazes me that people will spend $500 on a solution that adds chain length, puts the chain closer to road grunge, and whose gains evaporate in the face of 1x chainline.
But my $12 Aliexpress oversized pulley wheels are red. And we all know that red is faster. And red matches my other bike accessories, so that is faster too.
Not all pre glued is made the same. My goto is Lezyne pre glued, which is great tbh. Never failed me. Much better than a dried out tube of glue that's been in your saddle bag for yonks.
I was recently biking with my grandpa and he had one of those Lezyne in his bag for at least 5 years and it worked absolutly great ! I agree that the tube of glue is fine the first time as during the second one you realize how badly you closed it the first time...
If you know how to store your glue, it won't dry out. You can replace your tube every three months or so to be sure you have a fresh one. Or carry an unopened one. Costs you all of $2.
My Icetoolz ones seem to work to. Granted I haven’t used them for more than a year and I honestly have no idea if the glue still works. This might be another thing to consider; I’d be more in peace if the glue is in a tube instead.
Thank you Francis, plenty of good advice in this video and for a novice cyclist like me your films really do help us ordinary riders. My upgrades include a 'new to me' set of wheels to replace the stock Cannondale wheels. Bagged a used Mavic Kyserium Equip wheel set for £40 delivered. Soooo much better than the stock wheels. I have also upgraded the tyres from 23mm to 25mm Vittoria Corsa graphene 2.0 that cost the same price as the wheels lol. Latest upgrade was to replace the butyl inner tubes for TPUs. You can really notice the difference in the feel of the TPUs not to mention the weight saving. I'm a bit sceptical about things as I do not have a large budget but I was pleasantly surprised by the three upgrades I made. The next upgrade will not be tubeless tyres or disc wheels/brakes, but the next set of tyres will be 28mm and see what they are like.
TPU as a spare is good, as it takes less space. As a primary tube - don't see the point. Tubeless though would feel different for sure. I don't know much about road bike tubeless, but for MTB/gravity it's a game changer. Judging by 25 tires (like myself) you're not doing much gravel. Note that upgrading to tubeless entails new tires. Slightest wear and cracks might sweat sealant and scrubbing it off the frame is the worst. :)
@@dmtysnsskkei yep, I used to do most of my riding commuting on the road and still stick to the roads. I don't do gravel or off road riding yet, but that might change when we move house and I am fully retired.
Please consider if tubeless is really something you want to start with. Yes, you might save yourself some hassle by the side of the road now and then. But maintenance can be a bitch. It's more expensive, it's messy and it's a lot of work to set up or change a tire. Plus, if it does go wrong and you get a good puncture that you're unable to plug you're screwed. I've done it for about two years, but it cost me about five years of my life and a lot of money. It's just not worth it. Never again tubeless for me.
Just on the 3d printed saddles, I bought a Zeus saddle from Ali Express for about 80 AUD delivered based on a recommendation from Luke at Trace Velo. I've tried a lot of different saddles and thought I'd give the 3D thing a go without spending a bomb. It's the most comfortable saddle I've ever tried. I've only ridden a couple of thousand of kms on it but I'm a convert.
I concure the BS behind bike specific cleaning products. I use a 5ltr degreaser fluid from screwfix for £7 not MucOff £11 for can. Disc break cleaner for motorbike on bike disc £3 not £9 from some brands. Car shampoo for cleaning and baby wipes for intricate cleaning. Also any product with marketing buzwords is to take a bit of critical thinking in jand before you part your money
Also using Screwfix 5ltr degreaser. Brilliant stuff at sensible cost. Doesnt' help that LBS sells the branded stuff at 2x online cost, Which then works out at £30 litre!
The issue I have with car wash products is none is 'readily biodegradable', only 'biodegradable'. Under current regulations, most products can be classified as 'inherently biodegradable' in their safety data sheets, and labeled 'biodegradable' in the can. Petrol, is 'inherently biodegradable' too, carcinogens and all. Sure, everything will all biodegrade eventually (even if it takes thousands of years), but I prefere not to push any of it into other organisms (including myself). The 5l degreaser you mentioned works well, but also says pregant women should not use the product in its SDS... By the way, most of Muc Off 'biodegradable' products are green washing at best. I looked at their safety data sheets and everything is just 'inherently biodegradable'. Total rip off! Absolutely, buzzwords are mostly marketing BS. And companies know no one cares about safety data sheets...
I use Dawn Power Wash to clean and furniture polish to finish. Found the ingredients for the Power Wash on TH-cam and now make it myself for penny’s. Both products work great but I’ll have to check to see if Dawn has salts.
The only upgrade I've regretted is Lizard Skins bar tape. There's nothing wrong with it and it seems pretty durable, but the feeling is very love it or hate it. I also went for the wrong colour. It cheapened the look of my bike.
I don't have punctures often but I found when I used the old style patch kits I'd haul them out the f'ing glue would be dry or evaporated. The pre-glued don't last as long but as long as I can get home, good enough for me...
That has happened to me on many occasions. The glue looks full,and it is, its just full of air. I carry 3 spare tubes these days. I don't take unnecessary risks,I have had far too many walks of shame for one life time😂
I've used car shampoo because that's what I had laying around and the dish soap bottle was upstairs. Be careful and don't use car shampoo with wax, because I had some awful brake squeal and the brakes seemed like they were contaminated with something for a while. I assume it was the wax but I'm not sure. But hey, shampoo without wax is cheaper and you don't need the wax on your bike anyway so give it a try. Personally I always use dish soap and rinse the bike well afterwards. I'm fairly mechanically inclined so I always keep my bikes in good condition and so far I haven't seen any negative effects. Another tip: soft brushes from the hardware store 9 times out of 10 are cheaper and as good or better than bike specific ones. Unless you're looking for a way to clean your chain, old tshirts and hardware store brushes will fit all your needs.
Upgrades are Great All The Time, First of All, in My Opinion it is No Brainer spending money on upgrades without a degree of Knowledge, Wisdom and Understanding. After Upgrading my Trek Emonda SL 6 Pro's Bottom Bracket (from the factory Praxis T47 to CeramicSpeed T47), including the Pulley to an OSPW, upgrading my cassette from an Ultegra (which works great) to a Dura Ace, upgrading my crank from an Ultegra to Dura-Ace Power meter crank, plus adding Selle Italia Boost Carbinio,...It transformed from a bicycle to a Machine. Having A Great Financial Background, Plus Wisdom, Knowledge and Understanding, Creates Great Transformations. Great Video!
Guilty on the carbon bottle cage. I knew it was vastly more expensive than I needed it to be, and at my weight savings would be non-existent. But it just looks sooo gorgeous
I've been using some $17 ali express ones for a couple years. They haven't broken yet. For the price, they might as well be a consumable. I've had a better experience with them than with FidLock...
+1 for the TacX bottle cages. They are my go to now. Holds bottles on hardcore MTB rides and they’re easy to put bottles in and remove. Went from Specialized (also really good retention) because it was harder to get out the bottle
I can agree on all with the exception of bottle cages. I have been using the same cages, Arundel Mandible, for many years, now on the third frame. You can see them on many bikes. Indestructible, light, and superbly hold bottles.
I've been running a 2014 carbon fibre Specialized Zee-Cage on my MTB's downtube, and its plastic counterparts on the seattube (yes, plural!). The carbon zee-cage outlived 3 plastic ones so far. And still works perfectly. Even after dozens of XCM and Xterra races. But I'd indeed agree Specialized make one of the best cages out there.
My take has always been that if oversize pulley wheels really made a difference that Shimano, Sram, and Campy would manufacture their mechs to already have them.
There is real gains to be made by oversized pulley wheels, but they are small. There is also a lot of other cycling related items that are better than what Shimano/Sram are making.
@@allanhov the gains might be measurable on a lab with calibrated equipment but it is so small that the groupset manufacturers don't see them as viable for in-house production. Factory spec cages are optimally designed for the best balance of shifting performance, weight, aerodynamics and cost. The reduced friction in a singular given gear is cancelled out by a larger face to the wind, and the potential for slower shifting. There is also increased sideways load on the lower section of chain if in the large chainring and easier gears at the back as it shortens the distance between the point the chain leaves the chainring and the point it is picked up by the jockey wheel. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
They're easier to clean and they look pretty. That's all I care about. I don't give a shit about being faster - I'm not racing anybody. And they're cheap if you get them from Garbaruk - a crack Ukrainian company that makes fantastic high quality components at an affordable price. Like 80 bucks. Super worth it,
I agree with most of you said in the video but there is few exceptions: 1. Cheap ospw are good but you need to replace guide wheel for that one with sealed bearing. For example orginal one from ultegra rd. Tension wheel doesnt matter that much. 2. Top end chains are much better than cheap one. I agree there is no good reason to buy low friction chain like kmc ufo chain because kmc is shitty chain but if you ride for example on shimano, you should feel the diferrence between 105 chain, ultegra chain and dura ace chain. For me dura ace working much quieter and lasts much longer than ultegra and 105. 3. Sometimes one more gear gives you a lot! It's depends on many things but fore me the biggest problem is gearing on 12s cassetes. Because on 11s I ride on ultrgra r8000 12-25 with small steps between gears (25-23-21-19-18-17-16-15-14-13-12) and there is no more cassetes like that in 12s 105 and Ultegra. Only Dura Ace have nice 28-11 cassete with small steps (28-24-21-19-18-17-16-15-14-13-12-11) but too expensive and I heard bad stories about it's quality.
I use a spray bottle with dish soap, vinegar and water. This stuff cleans anything, even windows without streaking. Works great on my titanium bike. Titanium bottle cages, while expensive will never need to be replaced. Switching from 11 speed to 12 speed on one by systems does have the benefit of adding a taller gear and a lower gear which can be beneficial depending on the type of riding you’re doing.
Glue less Patches: I just switched to TPU tubes (JFOYH) and immediately got a flat from a very fine thorn. The glue less patch that came with the TPU tube worked great (unlike Butyl Patches) and has lasted more than a month! So far TPU seems worth the price. I also have used Forte Corsa Carbon (Performance store brand) bottle cages for approximately 10,000 miles without braking them! 27 grams and also not too expensive.
@@mag9792 Big difference is steel was here before carbon and aluminum, unlike vegans. And top tier steel frames are pretty much 'there' in therms of performance. This comes from an owner of both aluminum and carbon bikes atm
As for the chain, I can clearly feel the difference between the Sram GX and X01 chains, as well as the HG601 vs. HG95 chain. There is just so much less drag and quieter operation, especially for Sram with a longer lifespan. Sure, especially with a good cassette.
I have to agree about the 3D printed saddles. These have really helped my comfort on my bikes and without one, I doubt I would have been able to complete an ultra race this year.
Love me some stainless steel bottle cages. The king cage ones aren't that cheap, but they're super light (yes, steel can be light) and seem to be super durable. And they're beautiful! That's why I bought them in the first place.
And you can't replace a spoke on them and you have to send them back to be serviced... Also rim brake carbon wheels. As Francis said, say no to abrasion on carbon.
-Bought a carbon saddle with 3D printed cushion. It replaced a 360 gram OEM saddle, and weighs 176 grams (for about $50 on aliexpress). It is comfortable, doesn't creak, feels rock solid, looks awesome. No regrets! -I always carry a pack of Park Tools GP-2 pre-glued patches. They may not be as good as a patch and glue kit on butyl tubes, but they are the best at repairing punctures on TPU tubes. (MUCH better than the patches included by their manufacturers) Wipe around the puncture with an alcohol pad, let dry, apply, press with your finger to get a solid bond and it's ready to install. They are so thin and supple that I reckon you could have 100 patches on a TPU tube and not notice their presence.
I agree with almost all of these points you made Francis, except the one with OSPW. Sometimes it's not just for bling - I remember when you and Jimmi spoke about how much the gear range is important. As we know, Shimano and SRAM do not support big casettes on their road/gravel range, so either you have to go to MTB casettes and derailleurs or to look for an aftermarket big cassetes. With that, you usually need to upgrade your derailleur cage and - with that - pulley wheels (i did that when I upgraded my gravel bike with Garbaruk casette). Of course, there are things like Wolftooth link, but going for updated cage and pulley wheels can save you al lot of hassle. And in my case, it works brilliantly :)
Solid, practical advice. That said, I have 2 cheap, no-name CF bottle cages I purchased from Amazon nearly 3 years ago on a whim, and those suckers are still going strong. Look good and never had a bottle eject. YMMV I guess. (Pretty sure mine are the ones that appear at 5:20 of the video)
Some higher end chains have coatings which help reduce dirt build up which is quite handy. This doesn't mean you have to get the top spec chain but there might be a benefit to buying a mid range chain over the cheapest option.
OSPW from ceramicspeed look the business and this is a game of marginal gains at end of the day, ceramic bearing I can get behind that done it once and never again.
There's also nothing wrong about mixing up components like shifters with front derailleurs, rear derailleurs etc. from a different product/groupset line as long as they're proven to be compatible, my MTB (11 years old) came with a mix of Shimano lines from factory: the shifters are Deore 3x10, the front derailleur and wheel hubs are SLX and the rear derailleur is XT, the hydraulic disc brakes were just BR-M395 said to be Alivio series (I would say that it's advanced entry level/low-midrange, above Acera/Altus but below Deore) but absolutely fine. And on my road bike it's also a sketchy mix, brakeshifters are Dura-Ace 7800, rear derailleur also Dura-Ace 7800, front derailleur looks like a Ultegra 6600 (the shifter is a 3x but it works with a crankset that has just two chainrings) and it works; only thing was that I had to replace the rear cassette, it was a 9-speed and didn't really work well, so I got a CS-6700.
Love that you showed a bottle of wax when you mentioned “chain lube” for #1 (1:28). I’ve been waxing my chain for awhile now and will never go back to lube.
5:50 carbon is an unprecise term for carbonfiber reinforced polymer. In this case the polymer(called matrix) is Nylon. There is no pure Carbon in structural aplications(if you want to call it a hybrid ok its usually refered to as a composite, but its not a sign of lesser quallity). Carbon bottlecages can be very good(lightweight) an durable if well designed.
Yeah... I was thinking to change from a brand new slx to a XTR cassette to save 200g. 300 EUR. But then I thought, that it's kind of weird, being 10kg overweight 😛 Dieting is more cost effective.
I had a ceramic speed ospw and no one talks about how they degrade shift quality, increasing length of your chain adds weight, the unit itself weighs more too. It seems ospw makers created a small subset of stats that suit their agenda.
Agree with all , except the bike cleaner..I was gifted a purple Bontrager bike wash spray bottle(a friend left it in my truck after a ride) and that stuff is not of this world, it's absolutley amazeballs!
What I would love to buy would be different coloured chains and chain rings. I wouldn't care if it had any micro performance gains/losses. I would just love to be able to buy a colour scheme for my bike bits 🤷
4:41 keep in mind that car soap typically has salts as foaming agents. These salts will not scratch your bike but will cause corrosion. Here is the issue though, a lot of bike wash products also have salts as foaming agents. Check the SDS for whatever you use and make sure that salts are not part of the formula. In the USA wizard's classic car wash does not have salts as foaming agents.
I am sorry but the part about the chains makes no sense. Typically the higher tier (more expensive) chains will have the higher levels of both low friction treatment AND wear protection treatments. Ie the Shimano M9100 chain is a very long lasting chain. Sram Red / force chains are very long lasting chains. Sram eagle x01 and xx1 are VERY long lasting chains and so on. yes a case can be made that in many times buying second tier for the $$ savings but still great wear life is an excellent option. But what are these really fast, really fast wearing chains they are talking about? Again most cyclists looking for a fast chain will normally a) buy a top tier chain which will have top level wear protections as well, and b) run a top lubricant like a good wax / wax drip / top wet lube - and the good lubricant will also protect from wear as it is protecting the chain from friction between the metal parts (which - hint - causes wear). So that entire section - without further clarifying information - makes no sense to me at all. What chains are they talking about that are super fast but super fast wearing and thus not worth the money? Also - Cade media pls note that the chain is the hardest working mechanical component BY OH SO MUCH. And so cheaper faster wearing chains are often the false economy. The faster wearing the chain, the easier it is (and this is extremely common) to be caught out running a chain well past recommended replacement mark, and thus doing a lot of wear damage to cassette and rings, which can necessitate replacing those as well next new chain. Eating through the teeth on your cassette and chain rings is also not low friction pleasurable running, and also increases risk of chain drops. As the hardest working component, working like an absolute bat out of hell whilst completely exposed to all contamination - it is not a smart idea to buy cheap chains. ie in sram eagle, an X01 level is literally just so many times longer lasting than GX level, it will pay you back in lower wear 10 times over. So the golden rule - do not skimp on your hardest working component - not because you need a fast chain, but because budget chains are a false economy almost all of the time. You dont have to buy top tier, but second tier in most groupsets is a very good idea. I dont know why CADE is continually so far out with regards to chain and chain lubricant understanding. I enjoy a lot of their content, but any time it touches on this area, i need to reach for a xanax.
Yep, buy an expensive chain so buying ultrasonic cleaners, $50 bags o' wax, wax cookers and quick-links by the dozen will seem cheap-in-comparison! Pure marketing genius...just like the religions who promise eternal life in exchange for donations...but in this case it's eternal life for your drivetrain. PT Barnum was right! OTOH, with SRAM asking insane $ for their 13-speed cassette, all the faffing around might be worth it? As Jeebus said, "Thou shalt wax!" Chain, legs, bikini area..all of it :-)
You're not wrong, but the Shimano M9100 is less than 50 €, I've been torturing one for months and it's still perfect with no sign of wear. There are chains out there with a 150-200 € price tag, I think the video was referring to them. And I honestly don't know how much better than my M9100 they can do.
@@moz_jpg The m9100's are a big jump in wear life vs DA 11 (HG901), pretty much double, but they are much slower - so shimano took a big step with greater wear life for 12spd chains, but at a big drop in efficiency vs their 11spd chains. So in 11spd, going for a full race DA 11 vs just a normal DA 11 cleaned of factory grease and waxed or top lubricant - not a big gain in speed for all the extra cost, it was a very marginal gain (however, yet again though, people buying such chains look after them and enjoy a lot of racing - they dont just let the go to wrack and ruin as covered in the cade video). For 12spd however going with a fully optimised race chain of the right chain (YBN SLA, KMC) is MUCH faster vs m9100 - it is actually a pretty big watts savings for the $$ - we are talking circa 3w loss chains at 250w load vs 5w+ chain at 250w load, which means 6w vs 10w at 500w load, which means 9w vs 15w at 750w load (attacks, power climbs etc etc) And again, simply re waxing, or re lubing with a top wax drip like UFO - one has a super fast race chain for many races, and one can also easily do a perfect re set post wet ride with UFO DT clean and boiling water and re wax / re lube and set to go again for a lot of racing. Typically a fully optimised race chain used as a dedicated race chain (and why else do people buy race optimised chains, no one is buying these chains to then just do their general riding) are specifically looking for those marginal gains and to have a race chain rock many races. And then after say a year or two of racing depending on their number of races per year the race chain will move over to be next training chain - so overall they have a long and groovy life. So for the extra circa $100 for full race prep vs same chain as is - it is generally a good payback in the marginal gains space. People buying expensive race chains and then they just go "dirty and rusty" as put forward by Cade is just absolute rubbish.
For degreaser, get swarfega oil and grease remover. 5L for £19, and you dilute 50:1 to clean your bikes! the water used is actually more expensive than the degreaser. It’s the best degreaser I’ve ever used, can be used neat for very stubborn stains. But don’t get it on your hands too much, becuase it does dissolve all the oils in your skin too. (specifically that name if you’re buying, there are others. It’s a large red bottle and not “jizer” which can attack rubber.)
Makes a lot of sense. Only disagree with 11 to 12 speed transition... ok it's not cheap but it has transformed my riding. On GRX, I went from 11-42T to 10-45T cassette which dramatically increased the gear range on my 1x setup. On the road, my 12-speed ultegra allowed me to go from 11-28T to 11-34T without increasing the jump between gears. 11-34T in hilly places is a game-changer... why grind when you can spin!
Other good options for metal bottle cages are Wolftooth or King Cage. 500+ miles of gravel races gore me this year, and I've not launched a single bottle 💪🏻
according to Josh Poertner from Silca (and marginal gains podcast), pulley wheels are only a 0,3w save. You have to take in consideration also the aero penalization and also with time they loss some of the efficiency.
Good video. There are, however, two items that I disagree with. First, carbon bottle cages are expensive but are light and durable. I use Arundale Mandible carbon bottle cages for my two CF Colnagos. I have been cycling probably for a lot longer than you have been around and ai have tried hundred of different bottle cages. The Arundale Mandible are the best around. I’ve had them for years without any of the issues that you described. For my steel frame bikes I use Arundale stainless steel bottle cages and they are fine. Arundale is a great company, give them a try. Ceramic bearings. My two CF Colnagos have ceramic bearings at the bottom bracket. The wheels that I use, Fulcrum Racing Zero Nite, also use ceramic bearings. I do find a noticeable difference in improved performance and they do not require any more maintenance than steel bearings. One final item, I am not sure how much better high performance chains are over just plain, old chains. I use gold plated KMC XL chains (yeah I do like the bling). They are quiet, last longer, look good (in gold) and are not terribly expensive. A win-win situation. As they usually say, YMMV. Cheers!
Recently bought a Merida Scultura Rim 100 to fiddle with it, upgrade it here and there. The 8s Claris is surprisingly good, definitely the last thing I will upgrade on that bike.
I bought carbon bottle cages on Aliexpress back in 2019. I paid 15 euro for 2 of these and they have been excellent since ! They never broke and my bottles never came out of them !
Very good list. Most of the things on the list make no sense at all. Personal tip: Bontrager bat cage and trek bottles, rock solid, never lose a bottle again going hard with the gravel bike.
For the bottle cages in my experience on a road bike there isn't that much gain of having them carbon. On the otherhand on mtb it is a necessity for me, because they are more rigid bottle tend to less fall out which is nice comparing to loosing a bottle every 3 ride or so with plastic ones. Edit: i don't know if mines are full carbon or a mix of carbon and nylon so i guess you are right carbon nylon is better than full carbon.
I have very old Sora 8 speeds on two of my bikes and I'm just fine with them. I've tried Claris and really enjoyed it, but didn't get obsessed about it anyway. 🙏🏼
Hey, I've used once Park Tool Super Patch Kit, and forget about it. Only couple of years later, once I came to bike on the trainer (was winter time, did lots indoor rides) I saw deflated tyre.... then I discovered that it had installed patch.... so its ok.... and Topeak patch kit was rubbish tough.
Carbon spacers, 100% only because it looks cooler, but they only cost 10 bucks. I did all 3 of my bikes. I haven't seen those 3D printed seats, but they look super cool.
Fun fact: in skateboarding you have Ceramic bearings and they are called competition bearings... for a reason. They are crazy crazy fast it tell you. But they wear pretty fast and become just as fast as 'normal' bearings after a month or two of normal use... or one competition i guess. Good bearing manufacturers use a precision measurement use called ABEC. The higher the number, the more precise the machining is and faster the bearing is. But also more prone for wear.
Agree with everything except the 3d printed saddle. Saddle is such a personal thing, it is never one size fit all. The 3d ones may or may not be better for you. Finding one that is perfect is priceless
Switched from steel bottle cages to a lighter material, but not to save weight. The steel bottle cages held the bottles like a vice. There was no way they were coming out by themselves. And that was the problem. Getting them out was difficult; putting them back in was dangerous. The fit was just too snug. I still have them and may go back one day or I just may give them to someone who needs them. The steel would be my choice for rough roads.
Found titanium cage and titanium seat post in ali express, Worth buy imo, Cages grip tight so well cause they don’t bend that much and yet lightweight like aluminum. Seatpost on the other hand, No more ball vibrations. 🤣🤣 Plus I’m a 130kg rider and carbon seatpost is a stuff of nightmare for me. 😅
As for items made of carbon that actually shouldn’t be, like the carbon argument for bottle cages: pedals, I wear Shimano carbon pedals out in about 15000 km. (Depends on the float and how much your feet wiggle around while pedalling)
Not an upgrade per se but limited edition paint jobs are ridiculously expensive these days. Sometimes over 5000$ more for paint on your bike? Not worth it at all and it doesn't retain much value. I know, I have one!
in agreement with everything EXCEPT the 3D printed saddle. The Roman Evo saddle has been a godsend for my bum and worth it a million times over. I tried like 5 different saddles and that one meant no more saddle sores so i can keep riding instead of being sidelined.
yeah its wild out there because when I bought my 8spd cassette and chain from my local rei it only cost me 22$ for quality sram equippment where as my XX SL cassette was 650$ and the chain was 150ish I believe, crazy times we live in both my vintage road bike and vintage mtb are super enjoyable to ride and reliable where as my expensive road bike and MTB are quite a pain in the arse to work with and even harder on the wallet when its time for repairs
A stupid upgrade is one you would regret. The only "upgrade" I regret is spending $45 or more on bar tape. It's just not worth it. (Not going to name names. I think you can figure out which ones they are.
Disagree with number 8 - yes gluing patches is the “best” way. But doing it right takes time and is really easy to mess up. I’ve used Park pre-glued patches for years and they work great on butyl and TPU tubes, and can even fix a cut tyre in a pinch. You can get it done in under a minute which might be critical in the rain or when your mates are tutting at you.
I've upgraded my Shimano GRX 400 groupset to GRX 800 and even though it wasn't a cheap upgrade, I feel like riding a totally new and waaaay better bike!
The more people "upgrade" from 11s to 12s groupsets, the more used good-as-new spare parts will be available, so please keep doing it
11sp to 12sp is actually a great upgrade - the change in gear ratios was huge.
Rear cassette of 11-34 means that a lot of riders moved to a front chain ring combo of 54-40 or even 55-40.
That additional flexibility is massive for performance compared to running 11sp with 11-30 and 53-39.
@@cmathews1 you realize that 11-32 and 11-34 cassettes do exist also for 11 speed, right?
It's the tighter gear ratio riders are looking for. But even having 2 more teeth in the big cog can make a difference by using bigger chainrings. I still need to upgrade my 10 speed. Too many gaps.
I work with a consultant for Ferrari, who worked and developed Formula 1 engines for over 40 years. I asked him about ceramic bearings in a bicycle, his answer was, is there anything on a bicycle that does over 10,000 rpm? I'll listen to him over marketing campaigns.
yes, they don't last but when they are new the bike rolls beautiful.
@@marekklimczyk4042 So does with steel bearings.
10 years of washing up liquid. My SL4 is still pristine 👌Fairy should sponsor a team and enter the classics.
33 years here
Would Fairy or similar detergent not destroy bearing grease?
"Washing up liquid"?
Aka dish washing liquid soap. Yeah don't pour it into your bearings, but put it on a soft bristle brush and give everything a good scrubbing, nothing will be hurt.
I remember when kooks warned your bike would be ruined by using DAWN dish soap...despite it being the #1 choice of all the pro team mechanics who could get their hands on some.
Finish the job with a wipe-down with.....horrors....furniture polish.....oh the humanity!!! :-)
But the various snake-oil salesmen don't make any money if you use that stuff so what would you expect them to say? They'd much rather you buy 16 oz of polish/wax from them for $40!!! They're not stupid but maybe they think you are?
One thing not mentioned about those 3D printed honeycomb saddles are what they do to your shorts. They'll start pilling way sooner, than with a smooth saddle, so I don't run it anymore, and there's no lose in comfort.
I changed tubes and tires on my bike, I went from "Vittoria Zafiro" to "Schwalbe One", and from butyl tubes to TPU ones. I cut almost half a kilo off the bike just with that. valuable upgrade
Tires can be one of the best upgrades for the money. Only part that actually touches the ground
Same. The move from butyl to TPU (including the tube in my saddle bag) took half a pound off my bike and made the ride more supple. It's one of the smartest upgrades one can make, IMO.
Can tpu tubes be patch up with the same patch kit used on butyl tubes? Kinda wanna go for it but my godforsakened place is a hellhole for getting flat tires
@@ryujin9727 Some TPU tube manufacturers add their patch kit. It is a strip of the same tpu material with glue in it and a tissue soaked in cleaning alcohol.
I have mixed results in the road fixing them, but 100% success of repair at home with clean hands and tube.
@@ryujin9727 In theory yes, I put them on a few weeks ago and I still haven't had a flat, nor have I ridden enough, my tubes came with their patches, which I don't know if they work as well as the classic ones. Everyone on TH-cam says yes, I hope I don't get a flat and in that case the patches work.
My rule of thumb: Upgrading from crappy -> good is worthwhile. Upgrading from good -> better is dubious.
That's what I would say as well. Identify crappy components first, then fix it
Park tool preglued patches are awesome, work very well and lasts long.
I have parktool patch for over 10k on one latex tube, two lezyne, works just fine
Ditto that, was shocked, SHOCKED, to see pre-glued patches on this list. I love my Park Tool patches, Lezyne, not so much.
Just started riding again (nothing serious) and picked up some Slime patches when I got a puncture. They seem to work really well.
Dropped and lost my cheap sunglasses on way from East Ham to beyond Richmond for a work meeting. Popped into a bike shop in Richmond, cheapest sunglasses were £120 - ten to 15 years ago. Running shop across the road had some runners' eye wear for £20 that got me home.
But here's the story: that fancy bike shop mentioned about someone changing their DuraAce rear mech because there was a small, barely noticeable mark on theirs and they were due to do the Etape in a week or two. I asked about parts bins but was told they are not allowed to sell off old bits. As I left, a Porsche 911 came out of the side alley with an exotic bike strapped to the back. Different world!
the other day Francis tested aliexpress glasses with an UV thingie and they all passed, then tried the "cheap glasses shatter and you will impale your eyes", and they also didn't shatter and in the end the video was just an unsatisfying half assed conclusion because the legs of the cheap ones broke a little bit more than the oakleys
I used to work in a well known bike shop, all those 'old bits' found their way into my garage. All was well until the police came with a search warrant. I had legit excuses but my mum wasn't happy.
I bought my first bike two years ago (Specialized Allez Elite). All I've changed about it in two years and 6,000+ miles is power meter pedals, Gatorskins for general use, and GP5000 for race use.
Next year, I'm planning on getting a bike fit, and maybe handle bars and/or saddle based on the fit. I don't really care about trying to save weight or improve the aerodynamics of the bike itself while I'm still improving so much as a cyclist.
I couldn't agree more about the oversized pulley wheels. I would be shocked if they even had a 3 watt gain, I was thinking more .3.
The other thing I would add - what type of biking do you do? Are you riding for fun? Distance? Racing? This affects what upgrades make sense.
If you are getting even 1 watt savings from oversized pulley wheels you need to clean and lube your chain.
In my town the OSPW is used by "cyclist" who dont ride much but "dress up" and do more dancing and posing on social media
Same here -- it also amazes me that people will spend $500 on a solution that adds chain length, puts the chain closer to road grunge, and whose gains evaporate in the face of 1x chainline.
@@ericpmoss what does chain length have anything to do with?
But my $12 Aliexpress oversized pulley wheels are red. And we all know that red is faster. And red matches my other bike accessories, so that is faster too.
Not all pre glued is made the same. My goto is Lezyne pre glued, which is great tbh. Never failed me. Much better than a dried out tube of glue that's been in your saddle bag for yonks.
I was recently biking with my grandpa and he had one of those Lezyne in his bag for at least 5 years and it worked absolutly great ! I agree that the tube of glue is fine the first time as during the second one you realize how badly you closed it the first time...
If you know how to store your glue, it won't dry out. You can replace your tube every three months or so to be sure you have a fresh one. Or carry an unopened one. Costs you all of $2.
Yeah, I've used Lezyne ones for years on my MTB and they've been great. I'm pretty sure my rear tube has one patch from like 5 years ago still there.
My Icetoolz ones seem to work to. Granted I haven’t used them for more than a year and I honestly have no idea if the glue still works. This might be another thing to consider; I’d be more in peace if the glue is in a tube instead.
Same here but with Park Tool ones.....
Thank you Francis, plenty of good advice in this video and for a novice cyclist like me your films really do help us ordinary riders. My upgrades include a 'new to me' set of wheels to replace the stock Cannondale wheels. Bagged a used Mavic Kyserium Equip wheel set for £40 delivered. Soooo much better than the stock wheels. I have also upgraded the tyres from 23mm to 25mm Vittoria Corsa graphene 2.0 that cost the same price as the wheels lol. Latest upgrade was to replace the butyl inner tubes for TPUs. You can really notice the difference in the feel of the TPUs not to mention the weight saving. I'm a bit sceptical about things as I do not have a large budget but I was pleasantly surprised by the three upgrades I made. The next upgrade will not be tubeless tyres or disc wheels/brakes, but the next set of tyres will be 28mm and see what they are like.
TPU as a spare is good, as it takes less space. As a primary tube - don't see the point. Tubeless though would feel different for sure. I don't know much about road bike tubeless, but for MTB/gravity it's a game changer. Judging by 25 tires (like myself) you're not doing much gravel. Note that upgrading to tubeless entails new tires. Slightest wear and cracks might sweat sealant and scrubbing it off the frame is the worst. :)
@@dmtysnsskkei yep, I used to do most of my riding commuting on the road and still stick to the roads. I don't do gravel or off road riding yet, but that might change when we move house and I am fully retired.
Please consider if tubeless is really something you want to start with. Yes, you might save yourself some hassle by the side of the road now and then. But maintenance can be a bitch. It's more expensive, it's messy and it's a lot of work to set up or change a tire. Plus, if it does go wrong and you get a good puncture that you're unable to plug you're screwed. I've done it for about two years, but it cost me about five years of my life and a lot of money. It's just not worth it. Never again tubeless for me.
Just on the 3d printed saddles, I bought a Zeus saddle from Ali Express for about 80 AUD delivered based on a recommendation from Luke at Trace Velo. I've tried a lot of different saddles and thought I'd give the 3D thing a go without spending a bomb. It's the most comfortable saddle I've ever tried. I've only ridden a couple of thousand of kms on it but I'm a convert.
I concure the BS behind bike specific cleaning products.
I use a 5ltr degreaser fluid from screwfix for £7 not MucOff £11 for can.
Disc break cleaner for motorbike on bike disc £3 not £9 from some brands.
Car shampoo for cleaning and baby wipes for intricate cleaning.
Also any product with marketing buzwords is to take a bit of critical thinking in jand before you part your money
Also using Screwfix 5ltr degreaser. Brilliant stuff at sensible cost. Doesnt' help that LBS sells the branded stuff at 2x online cost, Which then works out at £30 litre!
The issue I have with car wash products is none is 'readily biodegradable', only 'biodegradable'. Under current regulations, most products can be classified as 'inherently biodegradable' in their safety data sheets, and labeled 'biodegradable' in the can. Petrol, is 'inherently biodegradable' too, carcinogens and all.
Sure, everything will all biodegrade eventually (even if it takes thousands of years), but I prefere not to push any of it into other organisms (including myself).
The 5l degreaser you mentioned works well, but also says pregant women should not use the product in its SDS...
By the way, most of Muc Off 'biodegradable' products are green washing at best. I looked at their safety data sheets and everything is just 'inherently biodegradable'. Total rip off!
Absolutely, buzzwords are mostly marketing BS. And companies know no one cares about safety data sheets...
great tips, will stop buying the bike specific stuff from now on.
I use Dawn Power Wash to clean and furniture polish to finish. Found the ingredients for the Power Wash on TH-cam and now make it myself for penny’s. Both products work great but I’ll have to check to see if Dawn has salts.
The only upgrade I've regretted is Lizard Skins bar tape. There's nothing wrong with it and it seems pretty durable, but the feeling is very love it or hate it. I also went for the wrong colour. It cheapened the look of my bike.
I don't have punctures often but I found when I used the old style patch kits I'd haul them out the f'ing glue would be dry or evaporated. The pre-glued don't last as long but as long as I can get home, good enough for me...
That has happened to me on many occasions. The glue looks full,and it is, its just full of air. I carry 3 spare tubes these days. I don't take unnecessary risks,I have had far too many walks of shame for one life time😂
@@atmywitsend1984 three! And I thought I was over packing carrying two!
I've used car shampoo because that's what I had laying around and the dish soap bottle was upstairs. Be careful and don't use car shampoo with wax, because I had some awful brake squeal and the brakes seemed like they were contaminated with something for a while. I assume it was the wax but I'm not sure. But hey, shampoo without wax is cheaper and you don't need the wax on your bike anyway so give it a try.
Personally I always use dish soap and rinse the bike well afterwards. I'm fairly mechanically inclined so I always keep my bikes in good condition and so far I haven't seen any negative effects.
Another tip: soft brushes from the hardware store 9 times out of 10 are cheaper and as good or better than bike specific ones. Unless you're looking for a way to clean your chain, old tshirts and hardware store brushes will fit all your needs.
Upgrades are Great All The Time, First of All, in My Opinion it is No Brainer spending money on upgrades without a degree of Knowledge, Wisdom and Understanding. After Upgrading my Trek Emonda SL 6 Pro's Bottom Bracket (from the factory Praxis T47 to CeramicSpeed T47), including the Pulley to an OSPW, upgrading my cassette from an Ultegra (which works great) to a Dura Ace, upgrading my crank from an Ultegra to Dura-Ace Power meter crank, plus adding Selle Italia Boost Carbinio,...It transformed from a bicycle to a Machine.
Having A Great Financial Background, Plus Wisdom, Knowledge and Understanding, Creates Great Transformations.
Great Video!
Guilty on the carbon bottle cage. I knew it was vastly more expensive than I needed it to be, and at my weight savings would be non-existent. But it just looks sooo gorgeous
I've been using some $17 ali express ones for a couple years. They haven't broken yet. For the price, they might as well be a consumable. I've had a better experience with them than with FidLock...
Arundel carbon bottle cages are the strongest ones I've ever used and they still look really good. Maybe they're not all created equal.
Wolf Tooth Stainless Steel bottle cages for me. They're strong and hold my bottles securely even during a wreck.
+1 for the TacX bottle cages. They are my go to now. Holds bottles on hardcore MTB rides and they’re easy to put bottles in and remove. Went from Specialized (also really good retention) because it was harder to get out the bottle
I can agree on all with the exception of bottle cages. I have been using the same cages, Arundel Mandible, for many years, now on the third frame. You can see them on many bikes. Indestructible, light, and superbly hold bottles.
I've been running a 2014 carbon fibre Specialized Zee-Cage on my MTB's downtube, and its plastic counterparts on the seattube (yes, plural!). The carbon zee-cage outlived 3 plastic ones so far. And still works perfectly. Even after dozens of XCM and Xterra races. But I'd indeed agree Specialized make one of the best cages out there.
My take has always been that if oversize pulley wheels really made a difference that Shimano, Sram, and Campy would manufacture their mechs to already have them.
Or provide it as an upgrade for the top groupsets
There is real gains to be made by oversized pulley wheels, but they are small. There is also a lot of other cycling related items that are better than what Shimano/Sram are making.
@@allanhov the gains might be measurable on a lab with calibrated equipment but it is so small that the groupset manufacturers don't see them as viable for in-house production. Factory spec cages are optimally designed for the best balance of shifting performance, weight, aerodynamics and cost. The reduced friction in a singular given gear is cancelled out by a larger face to the wind, and the potential for slower shifting. There is also increased sideways load on the lower section of chain if in the large chainring and easier gears at the back as it shortens the distance between the point the chain leaves the chainring and the point it is picked up by the jockey wheel. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
They're easier to clean and they look pretty. That's all I care about. I don't give a shit about being faster - I'm not racing anybody. And they're cheap if you get them from Garbaruk - a crack Ukrainian company that makes fantastic high quality components at an affordable price. Like 80 bucks. Super worth it,
@@artyparty_av garbaruk are polish mate...
I agree with most of you said in the video but there is few exceptions:
1. Cheap ospw are good but you need to replace guide wheel for that one with sealed bearing. For example orginal one from ultegra rd.
Tension wheel doesnt matter that much.
2. Top end chains are much better than cheap one. I agree there is no good reason to buy low friction chain like kmc ufo chain because kmc is shitty chain but if you ride for example on shimano, you should feel the diferrence between 105 chain, ultegra chain and dura ace chain.
For me dura ace working much quieter and lasts much longer than ultegra and 105.
3. Sometimes one more gear gives you a lot! It's depends on many things but fore me the biggest problem is gearing on 12s cassetes.
Because on 11s I ride on ultrgra r8000 12-25 with small steps between gears (25-23-21-19-18-17-16-15-14-13-12) and there is no more cassetes like that in 12s 105 and Ultegra.
Only Dura Ace have nice 28-11 cassete with small steps (28-24-21-19-18-17-16-15-14-13-12-11) but too expensive and I heard bad stories about it's quality.
I use a spray bottle with dish soap, vinegar and water. This stuff cleans anything, even windows without streaking. Works great on my titanium bike. Titanium bottle cages, while expensive will never need to be replaced. Switching from 11 speed to 12 speed on one by systems does have the benefit of adding a taller gear and a lower gear which can be beneficial depending on the type of riding you’re doing.
Glue less Patches: I just switched to TPU tubes (JFOYH) and immediately got a flat from a very fine thorn. The glue less patch that came with the TPU tube worked great (unlike Butyl Patches) and has lasted more than a month! So far TPU seems worth the price.
I also have used Forte Corsa Carbon (Performance store brand) bottle cages for approximately 10,000 miles without braking them! 27 grams and also not too expensive.
RideNow?
@@BadHotPotato JFOYH is the brand, and they were not expensive on Amazon.
Thank God my bank account is still stuck in the 'classic steel frame' era.
People that ride steel are like vegans. They’ll tell you before you ask.
@@mag9792😂
You are just flexing, like your frame, I can only afford a low end aluminum frame from 00s.
@@mag9792 Big difference is steel was here before carbon and aluminum, unlike vegans. And top tier steel frames are pretty much 'there' in therms of performance.
This comes from an owner of both aluminum and carbon bikes atm
@@gersonFls7 what do you mean? Veganism has been around for a long time
As for the chain, I can clearly feel the difference between the Sram GX and X01 chains, as well as the HG601 vs. HG95 chain. There is just so much less drag and quieter operation, especially for Sram with a longer lifespan. Sure, especially with a good cassette.
I have to agree about the 3D printed saddles. These have really helped my comfort on my bikes and without one, I doubt I would have been able to complete an ultra race this year.
3D printed saddle. If you are a gravel rider, isn't your saddle just going to fill with mud and be a nightmare to clean out afterwards? 🤔😅
Exactly what I thought. Why would anybody have those holey saddles on their bike? Just to show off the 3D print job?
Love me some stainless steel bottle cages. The king cage ones aren't that cheap, but they're super light (yes, steel can be light) and seem to be super durable.
And they're beautiful! That's why I bought them in the first place.
Agree. King bottle cages are great.
King Ti is the way to go. A definite luxury purchase, but mine is from 2009, has never dropped a bottle, and is currently on its 7th bike....
Most stupid upgrade I have seen are those millestein wheels that cost $7000 pair
And you can't replace a spoke on them and you have to send them back to be serviced...
Also rim brake carbon wheels. As Francis said, say no to abrasion on carbon.
@@hananas2and they ARE NOT lightweight!!!!
I've got a set..............on my Zwift bike
@@patrickparisienne1917 the original rim brake ones are
cuz you hvaen't ridden them.......
-Bought a carbon saddle with 3D printed cushion.
It replaced a 360 gram OEM saddle, and weighs 176 grams (for about $50 on aliexpress). It is comfortable, doesn't creak, feels rock solid, looks awesome. No regrets!
-I always carry a pack of Park Tools GP-2 pre-glued patches.
They may not be as good as a patch and glue kit on butyl tubes, but they are the best at repairing punctures on TPU tubes. (MUCH better than the patches included by their manufacturers) Wipe around the puncture with an alcohol pad, let dry, apply, press with your finger to get a solid bond and it's ready to install. They are so thin and supple that I reckon you could have 100 patches on a TPU tube and not notice their presence.
I agree with almost all of these points you made Francis, except the one with OSPW.
Sometimes it's not just for bling - I remember when you and Jimmi spoke about how much the gear range is important. As we know, Shimano and SRAM do not support big casettes on their road/gravel range, so either you have to go to MTB casettes and derailleurs or to look for an aftermarket big cassetes. With that, you usually need to upgrade your derailleur cage and - with that - pulley wheels (i did that when I upgraded my gravel bike with Garbaruk casette). Of course, there are things like Wolftooth link, but going for updated cage and pulley wheels can save you al lot of hassle. And in my case, it works brilliantly :)
Solid, practical advice. That said, I have 2 cheap, no-name CF bottle cages I purchased from Amazon nearly 3 years ago on a whim, and those suckers are still going strong. Look good and never had a bottle eject. YMMV I guess. (Pretty sure mine are the ones that appear at 5:20 of the video)
Appreciate your advocating for more mid range groupsets
Some higher end chains have coatings which help reduce dirt build up which is quite handy. This doesn't mean you have to get the top spec chain but there might be a benefit to buying a mid range chain over the cheapest option.
I've been using carbon fiber bottle cages for about 16 years without any cracks or breakage. And they are much lighter. Great purchase in my opinion.
I like this list and the way it was presented. No strange things but all items everybody once had a thought about.
I wet on a diet, saved 1000g of weight in 2 weeks an 100 bucks on food. So it cost -100 bugs
OSPW from ceramicspeed look the business and this is a game of marginal gains at end of the day, ceramic bearing I can get behind that done it once and never again.
There's also nothing wrong about mixing up components like shifters with front derailleurs, rear derailleurs etc. from a different product/groupset line as long as they're proven to be compatible, my MTB (11 years old) came with a mix of Shimano lines from factory: the shifters are Deore 3x10, the front derailleur and wheel hubs are SLX and the rear derailleur is XT, the hydraulic disc brakes were just BR-M395 said to be Alivio series (I would say that it's advanced entry level/low-midrange, above Acera/Altus but below Deore) but absolutely fine.
And on my road bike it's also a sketchy mix, brakeshifters are Dura-Ace 7800, rear derailleur also Dura-Ace 7800, front derailleur looks like a Ultegra 6600 (the shifter is a 3x but it works with a crankset that has just two chainrings) and it works; only thing was that I had to replace the rear cassette, it was a 9-speed and didn't really work well, so I got a CS-6700.
Love that you showed a bottle of wax when you mentioned “chain lube” for #1 (1:28).
I’ve been waxing my chain for awhile now and will never go back to lube.
OG blue bike in the background alert ⚠️!! Love that Willier ❤
Patch at home. Spare tube on the ride.
I've found pre-glued patches from Schwalbe work really well, but I've never tried it oit on the road.
I bought a 3D printed saddle from RYET .... a chinese company. Super comfortable and cost only $AUD70
Great video. It’s all Snake Oil, and Smoke and Mirrors.
5:50 carbon is an unprecise term for carbonfiber reinforced polymer. In this case the polymer(called matrix) is Nylon. There is no pure Carbon in structural aplications(if you want to call it a hybrid ok its usually refered to as a composite, but its not a sign of lesser quallity). Carbon bottlecages can be very good(lightweight) an durable if well designed.
So true, stay away from glue less patches. Cheers
Imagine mountain biking with those fancy $1,000 derailleur pullies.
The one 3D printed saddle I got off Ali Express for $70 is now my fav saddle.
Eat less, save money on food, lose weight, get faster. There is nothing more effective. Oops. Some money for a smaller jersey and pants.
Or ride more and keep eating!
Yeah... I was thinking to change from a brand new slx to a XTR cassette to save 200g. 300 EUR. But then I thought, that it's kind of weird, being 10kg overweight 😛 Dieting is more cost effective.
I bought a motorcycle.and I don't have to pedal anymore. It's 50x faster than a bicycle without breaking a sweat
Also when you loose weight you don’t look like a stuffed sausage in Lycra lol.
Saving money on the food you eat? Seriously? Ffs, some of these "tips" here...
Car shampoo is a great shout !!
Gotta watch out for waxed car soap and brakes however!
I had a ceramic speed ospw and no one talks about how they degrade shift quality, increasing length of your chain adds weight, the unit itself weighs more too. It seems ospw makers created a small subset of stats that suit their agenda.
Agree with all , except the bike cleaner..I was gifted a purple Bontrager bike wash spray bottle(a friend left it in my truck after a ride) and that stuff is not of this world, it's absolutley amazeballs!
Totally agree with the pre-glued patch kits! Well said…
I’ve had my zipp carbon bottle cages for 15 years. Everyday use, never a problem. All my aluminum ones prior always broke at the welds
What I would love to buy would be different coloured chains and chain rings. I wouldn't care if it had any micro performance gains/losses.
I would just love to be able to buy a colour scheme for my bike bits 🤷
Go look at Alugear, they make a bunch of chainring with plenty of nice colors and for the chain can't go wrong with Kmc
Pre Glued patches are great for tubeless tires, just clean the sealant with your thumb apply and you are good to go!
I can't agree about pre-glued patches, they are amazing!
4:41 keep in mind that car soap typically has salts as foaming agents. These salts will not scratch your bike but will cause corrosion. Here is the issue though, a lot of bike wash products also have salts as foaming agents. Check the SDS for whatever you use and make sure that salts are not part of the formula. In the USA wizard's classic car wash does not have salts as foaming agents.
I am sorry but the part about the chains makes no sense. Typically the higher tier (more expensive) chains will have the higher levels of both low friction treatment AND wear protection treatments. Ie the Shimano M9100 chain is a very long lasting chain. Sram Red / force chains are very long lasting chains. Sram eagle x01 and xx1 are VERY long lasting chains and so on.
yes a case can be made that in many times buying second tier for the $$ savings but still great wear life is an excellent option.
But what are these really fast, really fast wearing chains they are talking about? Again most cyclists looking for a fast chain will normally a) buy a top tier chain which will have top level wear protections as well, and b) run a top lubricant like a good wax / wax drip / top wet lube - and the good lubricant will also protect from wear as it is protecting the chain from friction between the metal parts (which - hint - causes wear).
So that entire section - without further clarifying information - makes no sense to me at all. What chains are they talking about that are super fast but super fast wearing and thus not worth the money?
Also - Cade media pls note that the chain is the hardest working mechanical component BY OH SO MUCH. And so cheaper faster wearing chains are often the false economy. The faster wearing the chain, the easier it is (and this is extremely common) to be caught out running a chain well past recommended replacement mark, and thus doing a lot of wear damage to cassette and rings, which can necessitate replacing those as well next new chain. Eating through the teeth on your cassette and chain rings is also not low friction pleasurable running, and also increases risk of chain drops.
As the hardest working component, working like an absolute bat out of hell whilst completely exposed to all contamination - it is not a smart idea to buy cheap chains. ie in sram eagle, an X01 level is literally just so many times longer lasting than GX level, it will pay you back in lower wear 10 times over. So the golden rule - do not skimp on your hardest working component - not because you need a fast chain, but because budget chains are a false economy almost all of the time. You dont have to buy top tier, but second tier in most groupsets is a very good idea.
I dont know why CADE is continually so far out with regards to chain and chain lubricant understanding. I enjoy a lot of their content, but any time it touches on this area, i need to reach for a xanax.
Yep, buy an expensive chain so buying ultrasonic cleaners, $50 bags o' wax, wax cookers and quick-links by the dozen will seem cheap-in-comparison! Pure marketing genius...just like the religions who promise eternal life in exchange for donations...but in this case it's eternal life for your drivetrain. PT Barnum was right!
OTOH, with SRAM asking insane $ for their 13-speed cassette, all the faffing around might be worth it?
As Jeebus said, "Thou shalt wax!" Chain, legs, bikini area..all of it :-)
You're not wrong, but the Shimano M9100 is less than 50 €, I've been torturing one for months and it's still perfect with no sign of wear.
There are chains out there with a 150-200 € price tag, I think the video was referring to them. And I honestly don't know how much better than my M9100 they can do.
@@moz_jpg The m9100's are a big jump in wear life vs DA 11 (HG901), pretty much double, but they are much slower - so shimano took a big step with greater wear life for 12spd chains, but at a big drop in efficiency vs their 11spd chains. So in 11spd, going for a full race DA 11 vs just a normal DA 11 cleaned of factory grease and waxed or top lubricant - not a big gain in speed for all the extra cost, it was a very marginal gain (however, yet again though, people buying such chains look after them and enjoy a lot of racing - they dont just let the go to wrack and ruin as covered in the cade video).
For 12spd however going with a fully optimised race chain of the right chain (YBN SLA, KMC) is MUCH faster vs m9100 - it is actually a pretty big watts savings for the $$ - we are talking circa 3w loss chains at 250w load vs 5w+ chain at 250w load, which means 6w vs 10w at 500w load, which means 9w vs 15w at 750w load (attacks, power climbs etc etc)
And again, simply re waxing, or re lubing with a top wax drip like UFO - one has a super fast race chain for many races, and one can also easily do a perfect re set post wet ride with UFO DT clean and boiling water and re wax / re lube and set to go again for a lot of racing. Typically a fully optimised race chain used as a dedicated race chain (and why else do people buy race optimised chains, no one is buying these chains to then just do their general riding) are specifically looking for those marginal gains and to have a race chain rock many races. And then after say a year or two of racing depending on their number of races per year the race chain will move over to be next training chain - so overall they have a long and groovy life. So for the extra circa $100 for full race prep vs same chain as is - it is generally a good payback in the marginal gains space.
People buying expensive race chains and then they just go "dirty and rusty" as put forward by Cade is just absolute rubbish.
Enduro bottom bracket for the win (steel bearings)!!!!
On carbon bottle cages.....but my Arundel bottle cages look sooo bling!
I learned the hard way when using the pre-glued patch kit and they are indeed complete garbage!
For degreaser, get swarfega oil and grease remover. 5L for £19, and you dilute 50:1 to clean your bikes! the water used is actually more expensive than the degreaser. It’s the best degreaser I’ve ever used, can be used neat for very stubborn stains. But don’t get it on your hands too much, becuase it does dissolve all the oils in your skin too. (specifically that name if you’re buying, there are others. It’s a large red bottle and not “jizer” which can attack rubber.)
Makes a lot of sense. Only disagree with 11 to 12 speed transition... ok it's not cheap but it has transformed my riding. On GRX, I went from 11-42T to 10-45T cassette which dramatically increased the gear range on my 1x setup. On the road, my 12-speed ultegra allowed me to go from 11-28T to 11-34T without increasing the jump between gears. 11-34T in hilly places is a game-changer... why grind when you can spin!
Other good options for metal bottle cages are Wolftooth or King Cage. 500+ miles of gravel races gore me this year, and I've not launched a single bottle 💪🏻
In my town the OSPW is used by "cyclist" who dont ride much but "dress up" and do more dancing and posing on social media
The specialized pre glue patch kit is very good compared to any other on the market having used it many times and never failed me so far
according to Josh Poertner from Silca (and marginal gains podcast), pulley wheels are only a 0,3w save. You have to take in consideration also the aero penalization and also with time they loss some of the efficiency.
Good video. There are, however, two items that I disagree with. First, carbon bottle cages are expensive but are light and durable. I use Arundale Mandible carbon bottle cages for my two CF Colnagos. I have been cycling probably for a lot longer than you have been around and ai have tried hundred of different bottle cages. The Arundale Mandible are the best around. I’ve had them for years without any of the issues that you described. For my steel frame bikes I use Arundale stainless steel bottle cages and they are fine. Arundale is a great company, give them a try. Ceramic bearings. My two CF Colnagos have ceramic bearings at the bottom bracket. The wheels that I use, Fulcrum Racing Zero Nite, also use ceramic bearings. I do find a noticeable difference in improved performance and they do not require any more maintenance than steel bearings. One final item, I am not sure how much better high performance chains are over just plain, old chains. I use gold plated KMC XL chains (yeah I do like the bling). They are quiet, last longer, look good (in gold) and are not terribly expensive. A win-win situation. As they usually say, YMMV. Cheers!
If you love them so much, may be spell it correctly - Arundel. LOL J/k - I love mine too!
Recently bought a Merida Scultura Rim 100 to fiddle with it, upgrade it here and there. The 8s Claris is surprisingly good, definitely the last thing I will upgrade on that bike.
I bought carbon bottle cages on Aliexpress back in 2019.
I paid 15 euro for 2 of these and they have been excellent since !
They never broke and my bottles never came out of them !
Very good list. Most of the things on the list make no sense at all. Personal tip: Bontrager bat cage and trek bottles, rock solid, never lose a bottle again going hard with the gravel bike.
Only bike-specific cleaning product I use is degreaser. Car shampoo works wonders and leaves a nice shine!
For the bottle cages in my experience on a road bike there isn't that much gain of having them carbon. On the otherhand on mtb it is a necessity for me, because they are more rigid bottle tend to less fall out which is nice comparing to loosing a bottle every 3 ride or so with plastic ones. Edit: i don't know if mines are full carbon or a mix of carbon and nylon so i guess you are right carbon nylon is better than full carbon.
Restrap are doing nice bottle cage with a little strap to avoid bottle from falling now !
Fidlock and you never loose a bottle
I have very old Sora 8 speeds on two of my bikes and I'm just fine with them. I've tried Claris and really enjoyed it, but didn't get obsessed about it anyway. 🙏🏼
Hey, I've used once Park Tool Super Patch Kit, and forget about it.
Only couple of years later, once I came to bike on the trainer (was winter time, did lots indoor rides) I saw deflated tyre.... then I discovered that it had installed patch.... so its ok.... and Topeak patch kit was rubbish tough.
Carbon spacers, 100% only because it looks cooler, but they only cost 10 bucks. I did all 3 of my bikes. I haven't seen those 3D printed seats, but they look super cool.
Thank you for the tip with the water displacing and shampoo buddy! Nice vid
What’s a good degreaser I can use for my chain cleaner?
Fun fact: in skateboarding you have Ceramic bearings and they are called competition bearings... for a reason. They are crazy crazy fast it tell you. But they wear pretty fast and become just as fast as 'normal' bearings after a month or two of normal use... or one competition i guess. Good bearing manufacturers use a precision measurement use called ABEC. The higher the number, the more precise the machining is and faster the bearing is. But also more prone for wear.
Love that you can find all the expensive things no one needs on Sigma
Elite Custom Race are pretty much perfect for me. Great plastic cage, and the pair I have on my road bike have lasted for 6 years now.
Agree with everything except the 3d printed saddle. Saddle is such a personal
thing, it is never one size fit all. The 3d ones may or may not be better for you. Finding one that is perfect is priceless
This is a really good list and good advice.
For the price of a 3d printed saddle, you could made one molded to your butt from Debya
Switched from steel bottle cages to a lighter material, but not to save weight. The steel bottle cages held the bottles like a vice. There was no way they were coming out by themselves. And that was the problem. Getting them out was difficult; putting them back in was dangerous. The fit was just too snug. I still have them and may go back one day or I just may give them to someone who needs them. The steel would be my choice for rough roads.
Found titanium cage and titanium seat post in ali express, Worth buy imo, Cages grip tight so well cause they don’t bend that much and yet lightweight like aluminum. Seatpost on the other hand, No more ball vibrations. 🤣🤣 Plus I’m a 130kg rider and carbon seatpost is a stuff of nightmare for me. 😅
As for items made of carbon that actually shouldn’t be, like the carbon argument for bottle cages: pedals, I wear Shimano carbon pedals out in about 15000 km. (Depends on the float and how much your feet wiggle around while pedalling)
Not an upgrade per se but limited edition paint jobs are ridiculously expensive these days. Sometimes over 5000$ more for paint on your bike? Not worth it at all and it doesn't retain much value. I know, I have one!
in agreement with everything EXCEPT the 3D printed saddle. The Roman Evo saddle has been a godsend for my bum and worth it a million times over. I tried like 5 different saddles and that one meant no more saddle sores so i can keep riding instead of being sidelined.
What watch do you have? looks very good. It's a Garmin? what model?
the park tool pre glued patches are the business! wouldn't use anything else. although i have been tubeless for a while!
yeah its wild out there because when I bought my 8spd cassette and chain from my local rei it only cost me 22$ for quality sram equippment where as my XX SL cassette was 650$ and the chain was 150ish I believe, crazy times we live in both my vintage road bike and vintage mtb are super enjoyable to ride and reliable where as my expensive road bike and MTB are quite a pain in the arse to work with and even harder on the wallet when its time for repairs
A stupid upgrade is one you would regret. The only "upgrade" I regret is spending $45 or more on bar tape. It's just not worth it. (Not going to name names. I think you can figure out which ones they are.
Fuckin Supacaz. Bad bar tape even if it was inexpensive.
@lolbubs11111 that is one of them
Love my specialized 3d printed seat!
Disagree with number 8 - yes gluing patches is the “best” way. But doing it right takes time and is really easy to mess up. I’ve used Park pre-glued patches for years and they work great on butyl and TPU tubes, and can even fix a cut tyre in a pinch. You can get it done in under a minute which might be critical in the rain or when your mates are tutting at you.
One of the only "roadbike" videos I also like as a real mountainbiker
I've upgraded my Shimano GRX 400 groupset to GRX 800 and even though it wasn't a cheap upgrade, I feel like riding a totally new and waaaay better bike!
My UT Ali Express oversized pulley cage has been going great for years.