I absolutely adore my Assioma DUO power meter pedals. They have revolutionized the way that I ride and train while solo or in groups/events. They were dead simple to install and setup and I was riding in less than 20 minutes.
Keep in mind when he talks about some inner tubes being lighter, that is only 0.1% of the benefit. The rest of the benefit comes from improved rolling resistance, as it takes significantly less energy to deform the latex or TPU tubes as you roll along. Its quite significant.
A decent carbon wheel set with good tyres was a game changer for me. I actually think there is no need to spend more for upgrades. I should just ride more.
One more upgrade I just did is a lightweight saddle. I bought a 3D printed one for very little money that is more comfy than the Selle Italia I'd been riding and weighs about half. I'd already done most of the upgrades suggested, except the air tags. The wheels I did almost 20 years ago and maybe could be done again with the more recent aero carbon wheels. I keep it clean, changed the gearing, use TPU tubes, use good tires, have a power meter. No need for lights on my roadie, if I'm going to be out in the dark I use my commuter bike with dynamo lighting. And yet with all that I still keep looking at new bikes but don't believe it'll be worth it unless I go through that whole upgrade process again.
I ride Evil Chamois Hagar with two wheelsets (DTSwiss GR1600 alu and Elitewheels G45 carbon) and a carbon road bike (SAVA). I love all your comments. They are spot on. I bought latex tubes but still did not change my last butyl tubes. I also like how tubeless is a lot less effort than I originally thought. Lastly I am also aiming to get a power meter but still waiting for a better price. Your video brings the most common upgrades into a nice package. In my opinion, even the order of them is very appropriate.
I though this was a great video for beginner/intermediate riders, thanks! I'm a recumbent rider and agree with you on everything you said, except for air tags - no one can ride away on my recumbent! 😅
If we're discussing gearing, perhaps you should preach more the advantages of subcompact cranksets (46/30, 48/31, 48/32), which are far more useful for average cyclists with sub-3W/kg FTPs than those idiotic yet ubiquitous 52-36. What is an amateur supposed to do with the high gears that are typically used by pro riders on sprints or 80+ km/h descents on closed roads?
I've implemented most of the upgrades on my 10 year old aluminium road bike and it still is competitive to most modern road bikes at 7.5 kg race-ready. My current upgrade which I'm still working on is an integrated carbon handlebar off Aliexpress so you might want to add that to your list. Cheers
Great advice! I've been on the Orbea avant h30d for some time now and recently decided to upgrade to the Orca M30i (I live in Switzerland and endurance = hills). The thing is the stock wheels weigh quite a bit - and i don't know how to go about finding new wheels. What do i have to search for to find wheels that will fit the bike? It's all a bit confusing. Thanks to anyone who can help.
Hi great video. I ride a 2020 Specialized Venge Pro SRAM Force etap. Would it be worth swapping out the crank arms for Red which will be 140 grams lighter at about $300 usd. Will I feel a difference climbing? THX
Îve done just that. All SRAM RED on my 2020 Venge. The cassette too: MASSIVE weight gains. Sram Red crankarms are stupid light. Keep the Force chainring. I’ve put the most recent SRAM FORCE/QUARQ chainring (the all black one) on the RED crankarms, perfect. The Force/Quarq chainring weighs THE SAME as the Red for half the price!! But the cassette (190g 10-28!!) and the Crankarms will shave a lot of weight. Both can be found under $300 if you look around hard
You wouldn't be able to get one with a different number of gears but you'll be able to get compatible chainrings and cassettes with different ratios (Be careful not to exceed your rear mechs maximum capacity)
@@giacomobiondo1471 Yes, the larger the cassette, the lower your gearing will be, which makes climbing easier, but in turn gives you larger jumps in gear ratios in between gears.
@@giacomobiondo1471 There are different cassettes within the Claris component range. I have "Claris 2400" with an 11-32 cassette on their normal rear mech and a 50-39-30 triple at the front. I think there's an 11-34 cassette with 50-34 "compact double" at the front which is almost the same total range. Count the teeth on the biggest and smallest ring at the front and the back to see what you currently have. Hope you find the ratios you want - and use a local bike shop if you can't swap everything over yourself. (Requires some specialist tools.)
I absolutely adore my Assioma DUO power meter pedals. They have revolutionized the way that I ride and train while solo or in groups/events. They were dead simple to install and setup and I was riding in less than 20 minutes.
Keep in mind when he talks about some inner tubes being lighter, that is only 0.1% of the benefit. The rest of the benefit comes from improved rolling resistance, as it takes significantly less energy to deform the latex or TPU tubes as you roll along. Its quite significant.
LOVE THIS GUY. Thank god for a decent person alive today
My next upgrade is shallow drop handlebars. I'm not as flexible as I used to be....if I ever was at all.
The number one upgrade I gave my bike is I ride it more often.
A decent carbon wheel set with good tyres was a game changer for me. I actually think there is no need to spend more for upgrades. I should just ride more.
To me a good saddle is more important thank fancy wheels and a proper bike fitting will increase your power quicker and cheaper than a power Meter!
One more upgrade I just did is a lightweight saddle. I bought a 3D printed one for very little money that is more comfy than the Selle Italia I'd been riding and weighs about half. I'd already done most of the upgrades suggested, except the air tags. The wheels I did almost 20 years ago and maybe could be done again with the more recent aero carbon wheels. I keep it clean, changed the gearing, use TPU tubes, use good tires, have a power meter. No need for lights on my roadie, if I'm going to be out in the dark I use my commuter bike with dynamo lighting. And yet with all that I still keep looking at new bikes but don't believe it'll be worth it unless I go through that whole upgrade process again.
I ride Evil Chamois Hagar with two wheelsets (DTSwiss GR1600 alu and Elitewheels G45 carbon) and a carbon road bike (SAVA). I love all your comments. They are spot on. I bought latex tubes but still did not change my last butyl tubes. I also like how tubeless is a lot less effort than I originally thought. Lastly I am also aiming to get a power meter but still waiting for a better price.
Your video brings the most common upgrades into a nice package. In my opinion, even the order of them is very appropriate.
I though this was a great video for beginner/intermediate riders, thanks! I'm a recumbent rider and agree with you on everything you said, except for air tags - no one can ride away on my recumbent! 😅
my power meter works as an airtag. 2 in 1 :)
Nice! 4iiii?
@@roadcc yep
Didn’t know this was a thing - thanks very much!
My stolen bike was recovered because it has a 4iiii with built in AirTag.
Pulley/jocky wheels.
I up graded to some blingy orange ones from my tired old shimano’s. They make me smile when I look at them 😊
If we're discussing gearing, perhaps you should preach more the advantages of subcompact cranksets (46/30, 48/31, 48/32), which are far more useful for average cyclists with sub-3W/kg FTPs than those idiotic yet ubiquitous 52-36. What is an amateur supposed to do with the high gears that are typically used by pro riders on sprints or 80+ km/h descents on closed roads?
I've implemented most of the upgrades on my 10 year old aluminium road bike and it still is competitive to most modern road bikes at 7.5 kg race-ready. My current upgrade which I'm still working on is an integrated carbon handlebar off Aliexpress so you might want to add that to your list. Cheers
That Allez is 🔥
I'm looking for a super visible rear bike light for my road bike. What is the one you have on your bike in this video?
2:53 Brand not alligned with the valve of the front tire... 😅
Jamie: "No tyres have mastered the art of balancing speed, puncture protection, and durability!"
Tubular tires with sealant:
6:10 they’ve come down in price quite a bit, see Campagnolo!
Good point!
Does anyone know the brand of the front light? Very slick attachment underneath the Garmin mount
Moon Rigel Pro :)
@@roadcc Thank you! I love your content. Keep it up!
@roadcc what's the make and model of the handlebar light/computer mount? I need one 👍
Can you review New Compagnolo C23 Bora Ultra WTO
Great advice! I've been on the Orbea avant h30d for some time now and recently decided to upgrade to the Orca M30i (I live in Switzerland and endurance = hills). The thing is the stock wheels weigh quite a bit - and i don't know how to go about finding new wheels. What do i have to search for to find wheels that will fit the bike? It's all a bit confusing. Thanks to anyone who can help.
Hi great video. I ride a 2020 Specialized Venge Pro SRAM Force etap. Would it be worth swapping out the crank arms for Red which will be 140 grams lighter at about $300 usd. Will I feel a difference climbing? THX
Îve done just that. All SRAM RED on my 2020 Venge. The cassette too: MASSIVE weight gains. Sram Red crankarms are stupid light. Keep the Force chainring. I’ve put the most recent SRAM FORCE/QUARQ chainring (the all black one) on the RED crankarms, perfect. The Force/Quarq chainring weighs THE SAME as the Red for half the price!! But the cassette (190g 10-28!!) and the Crankarms will shave a lot of weight. Both can be found under $300 if you look around hard
Wouldn’t i have to change the entire gearset if i change my cassette? (Shimano claris)
You wouldn't be able to get one with a different number of gears but you'll be able to get compatible chainrings and cassettes with different ratios (Be careful not to exceed your rear mechs maximum capacity)
Like an 11 to 42? Does that also change something for climbing
@@giacomobiondo1471 Yes, the larger the cassette, the lower your gearing will be, which makes climbing easier, but in turn gives you larger jumps in gear ratios in between gears.
@@giacomobiondo1471 There are different cassettes within the Claris component range. I have "Claris 2400" with an 11-32 cassette on their normal rear mech and a 50-39-30 triple at the front. I think there's an 11-34 cassette with 50-34 "compact double" at the front which is almost the same total range.
Count the teeth on the biggest and smallest ring at the front and the back to see what you currently have. Hope you find the ratios you want - and use a local bike shop if you can't swap everything over yourself. (Requires some specialist tools.)
Why did you guys blur the handlebar at the beginning? New GPS unit from Wahoo?
not sayin' :-D
Anybody know what handlebar plugs he has on his bike?
Where to Buy AirTag?
Online
AirTags are overrated, Knog Scout is the real deal. Yes it’s more visible but the functionality is much better.
His air tag is up his rearend.
What bike is this?
Specialized Allez sprint 😊
A bit misleading to show SRAM in the thumbnail, I thought the video is about upgrade not downgrade
how do bike lights relate to having a new bike? wtf dude.
I can't find the airtag, someone?
Maybe someone stole it?
It's over here.
So funny, guy’s doing his best
How about putting rim brakes back on for an even better bike……?
My air tag is my fist, works every time
I only need lights.
Well there's 8 minutes of my life wasted.
Thank you for saving me from wasting precious time as I'm getting old and can't afford to fritter away 8 minutes.
true dude,he just said someting that we already knew😅
That chainring tho 💀💀
you're welcome. x
Saved me 8 minutes 👍
your saddle is to high arrrghhh