Can I put modern components on a Vintage Steel frameset? I'll show you how!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ธ.ค. 2023
- In this video we talk about the steps needed and things to look for in putting modern bicycle components on a vintage steel frameset. I talk about the advantages and disadvantages of doing that.
A glaring mistake in the video: I said standard six speed spacing was 125mm. Its actually 126.
(Edit on 1-4-24)
Someone made a comment on this video that was spot on. Also make sure before picking a headset that you consider the stack height. You don't want to buy a headset to find out that your fork steer tube is too short. Just a thought.
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How to respace your rear dropouts
• Cold Setting A Bike Fr...
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My personal reason was cost: used 50$ steel frame + china groupset 160$ + used wheelset 60$ + BB 20$ + handlebar, seat etc = up to 400$ and i have nice-riding steel bike )) Especially when you do it gradually over time.
Which China groupset did you end up with? Ltwoo or sensah
@@asebaninja 11s Sensah mechanical, i like how it's works, but rubber on hoods is not very pleasant to the touch.
There's no way i would trust that build over a new entry level bike. Decathlon has a few good ones.
Used wheelset lol...
Lol my alloy bike with 105 and carbon fork only cost me $470!
@@yukiko_5051 you can proud yourself 👏
With those cars and those bikes together, you are without doubt the coolest bike guy on the internet. Cheers from Australia.
During the pandemic I bought a 1986 Schwinn Peloton frame on ebay. Schwinn contracted with Panasonic to build those frames with Columbus SL tubing. I built it up with modern Shimano 105 and Ultegra components. I had to use what I could get during the parts shortage. It was a nice project. I did go with modern handlebars because I like compact drops. I live in the mountains and went with 50-34 crankset and 11-32 cassette. It came out really nice. Glad I am not alone. Thanks for posting. Great video.
I put a 34/50 Vuelta on a garage sale 2x6 TREK classic. I love it and saved it from the scrap yard
Sweet. I remember the pelotons. Didn't often see one though as Italian stuff was all the rage in the early 90's
Absolutely beautiful and with respect your garage is stunning. I’ve been on steel for the last 20 years and at 60 years old now would never change my ride. Steel has a soul, pure and simple. Carbon bikes are soulless, I purchased a Colnago C64 sold it after three rides. So glad I found your channel. 👍🏼🇬🇧
There is just something about a vintage steel frame that stands the test of time. In my younger racing days you could usually bend the frames back into alignment if the crash was not too bad. Now a days a crash in a criterium is a $1,500 to $3,000 frame replacement.
It is still fun to ride my vintage frames from the 80s. It is crazy to think that was over 40 years ago now.
lt is nice to give those old frames new life!
I have one of those Carbon bikes. I do enjoy it to be honest. However I love the feel of the steel a bit more. I feel more sure footed around corners. Im a larger guy.
I have a very nice Reynolds 531 Motobecane LeChampion from the 70s that I had refinished by CycleArt. I'm going to put it back into service with some modern componentry and ride it again. Thanks for the video. And I'm currently your most recent subscriber.
@@77gmcnut thanks so much! I appreciate that.
My 400 euro carbon crit frame has crashed 3 times and it’s still competitive.
My steel bikes are still competitive, too, in retro races. I like riding all of them.
Agree, they are very comfortable and ,yes, cracy , for me 38 years ago I bought my custombuild Bob Jackson bike .
That is an ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL bike! Love the neo-retro.
Thanks!
Note - if you do not want to bend your frame Grand Bois make 120/126 rear hubs that take a modern Shimano sprockets . I have upgraded my 1968 Jack Taylor on a 120 Hub with Miche sprockets and a Tiara 10 speed shifters (limited to 8 via limit screws)
26/44 front and 13/15/17/19/21/23/25/27 for bike packing.
What a beautiful collection of bicycles and cars!
Thanks!
I've done basically the same thing on a '90s pearlescent pink Holdsworth. It's a lovely ride, and usually gets some nods from other riders. It was also a nice cheap build, relatively!
Nothing better than having a bike this just fits and works for you.
I love restomod bikes! I build one myself earlier this year based on 1979 Gazelle Champion Mondial frame. Replaced everything but the frame with modern componentry, threadless headset, carbon 1inch fork, carbon seat post, carbon wheels, full SRAM Rival 1x11 groupset (incl. brakes and crankset). I simply can't get enough of this bikes looks and of how it rides!
Wow, you went all out! Even the fork! Nice job
Hey Matviichuk,
i also have access to a champion mondial „A Frame“ with Reynolds 531 tubing. Do you recommend building it up with modern components? What were the challenges and whats the maximal tire clearence you get?
Greetings from Germany,
Daniel
Hey, Daniel!
Mine is also A-frame, by the way. I definitely recommend building it up with modern stuff! Depending on the frame size seat post diameter might differ. I have size 53 and the DIA is 27.0, frames 54+ will have 27.2mm. I wanted as much carbon parts as possible, so finding a 27.0mm carbon seatpost was a challenge. Another thing to mention is the rear hub spacing, it differs from 120mm in the early years to 126mm in the later years. Mine is 1979 and had 125mm spacing, so only 5mm to set for modern 130mm hub. Though Reynolds 531 can be easily cold set to almost any size.
Bottom brackets are BSA on all years, so nothing special there.
Regarding the tire size, it is limited by brake calipers rather than a frame itself. I'm using SRAM Rival brakes, so my max tire is 28mm. I think most of the calipers are maxing out at about 28mm. If it wasn't for the brakes I think 30-32mm would fit.
Regards,
V.
@@V_Matviichuk Wow, thanks for the details! I might come back to you for more info, when i am deciding to the conversion.
That 1983 Pro-Miyata is the exact same model as the first bike I bought with my own hard-earned summer money. I still have it, built up currently with a full Dura-Ace AX group including the AX handlebars, stem, and seatpost. It looks cool with the aero fork and seat stays and that funky top downtube shifter boss. I also have a 1983 Team-Miyata with full Dura-Ace EX with stem, seatpost, and AX handlebars, as well as a 1981 Team-Myata with full DA AX group but currently not built up. I do have some retromod bikes: a 1991 Team-Miyata with 10-speed DA 7800/7700, a 1989 Tesch S-22 with 11-speed Campy Record, a 1989 Pinarello with 11-speed Athena/Chorus, a 1991 Zullo with 11-speed Athena, and soon to be early 90s Picchio Special with 11-speed Campy SR/Record. I definitely get more use out of my retromod bikes. And no, none of these bikes are ruined as they can all go easily right back to contemporary components just as fast as I can strip and install them.
What an amazing collection. A 81 Miyata Team built stock is a Must have!
The '81 Team came with Dura-Ace AX? Not EX? My early 80's came with EX. The cranks & pedals, and stem and I think seat post was the same between EX and AX - but the derailleurs and brakes were very different.
You must have a big garage, and an understanding wife :)
Hey, young (32) vintage mtb builder here. I really appreciate your open minded attitude towards building bikes. I'm restomodding 90s mtbs and I love the challenges that come with upgrading an old steel frame with modern parts. Your video has been helpful. And it's been fun to watch, too! Thanks!
AWESOME> I was the local GT bicycles rep from 89 to 99. Thats my era. I get excited when I see an old XTR bike..Thanks for watching
Hey mojo, firstly good luck on your projects! Personally I have a 90s 26” MTB that I have modded to be a little more modern, I wanted to know, is there any way to put a threadless 1 1/8th steerer fork as a replacement for the 1” threaded vintage fork and headset? The head tube looks a bit narrow and I’ve read it can’t be done unless the threaded fork is also 1 1/8. That’s really the one thing I really want to change, so I can put a good suspension fork that also supports hydraulic brakes. I would really appreciate your insight
@@deniahmetaj To my knowledge, that is not possible. I know this is a vintage road bike channel. But I was the GT factory rep from 89 to 99. Good luck
@@deniahmetajfar as I know that's unfortunately not possible, have you tried fitting one already ?
Cold set my 1980 Carlton Clubman frame myself using threaded rod and nuts / washers inside the drop outs, then gradually easing it out a half turn every few days. Worked perfectly, had it checked on a jig and dropouts were straight. I thenI built it with Campagnolo 9speed (Which is same width and hub as 9/10/11/12 speed, so I could have used any of those). Easy so long as you consider what could go wrong and check after. The resultant bike was a dream to ride (as good as my 1983 Carlton Professional which is running the same equpment, but was professionally cold set). I have recently taken it out of service to get a respray as frame was looking very tatty - will rebuild back to 9speed when painted.
That should be cool when it's done. Id like to see it painted. Email it to my address on my TH-cam page! Thanks
I had a frameset that I had built in the early 90s that wasn’t used in a long time. I decided that it would be fun to put modern parts on it. I stripped the paint and had it powder coated, spread the rear dropouts using a bolt and nuts, had a bike shop make the dropouts parallel, replaced the fork with a Columbus Minimal carbon fiber model, replaced the stem with a threadless type and used modern drivetrain. It worked fine, and only problem was that I have to let the air out to remove the rear wheel because it was designed for the old narrow tires.
Wow! what frame was it?
I always enjoy your videos 😊….Happy New year 🎉
You can get quill stems for 31.8 with a face plate.
If the frame is not prepped for recessed bolts, you usually can ream or drill the rear opening larger to fit the recessed nut. Remember to paint any exposed steel.
Excellent video. I like the idea of new components on old frames, so now I know what to look for.
Excellent. Glad it helped. Thanks for watching
Thanks John, I'm love your videos. Keep up the great work. Stay safe and enjoy your rides.
Dave,
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Thanks Dave!
That is a beautiful bike, great build and tips !
Thanks!
Not to quibble over just 1 mm - well, OK, I am quibbling - but I recall so-called 6-speed spacing being 126 mm, not 125. I remember it going from 120 to 126 to 130 (and eventually to 135).
you're probably right! LOL I was thinking that too.
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage It would only have taken 2 minutes to look up the exact spacing on Sheldon Brown's website...
@@lastfm4477 it's one of those things that you know. Then you misspeak. No big deal.
Thank you. I want to restore (by myself if I can) my 1975 Peugeot UE_8 for sentimental reasons primarily, but also the desire to get back to cycling. Very helpful points for me to consider that you have made here.
Hey hey! That should be fun.
Great summary, watching this after buying a steel Raleigh and it looks like I was lucky all the specs are good
I recently picked up a ‘86 Centurion Ironman with Shimano 600 groupset. I stripped it all down, sold the parts on eBay and currently upgrading it to a Tiagra 4700 10 speed groupset. I found a set of SLR-0 carbon wheels and cold set the rear dropouts to fit the 130mm axle. So far so good. It’s very light for a steel frame bike.
Other than the super-heavy crank, Tiagra 4700 is truly the Groupset of the People(tm). Switch out the 4700 crankset for a 105 R7000 or 5800 and you're golden.
Hey John , been following your channel for quite awhile,and must say this video is one of your finest.
All the best.
STEEL IS REAL!
Thanks so much!
Love it. Best of both worlds.
IT is! Thanks
Yeah, running steel frames with Ritchey classic line components and silver Shimano 105 r7000! Such a cool bike.
Publish some photos somewhere. :-)
Awesome advice thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
This upload is great timing for me. Answered questions I had and been thinking about lately. Cold setting and keeping rear dropouts parallel. Have a Japan 1974 Schwinn Le Tour that I'm fixing up.
Check the link in the description in the video. It shows the "how to" in respacing the drops. That LeTour was spaced 120mm and it didnt have a forged dropout. You can probably do it but might stress the frame getting a full centimeter spread in the back. Good luck and have fun with it!
Very interesting. Steel is so Real. Nothing like it!
It sure is!
I put a SRAM wireless 12 speed on a 2002 litespeed ultimate frame. I had to make it a 1x12 11-36 because the modern FSA carbon crankset with external bottom bracket will make the chainline way off. I went with a 50 tooth narrow wide chainring mounted on the inside of the crank where usually the smaller chainring mounts. I used a 40mm carbon wheel set 11 sp . 12 speed cassettes fit!
I had to use a steel bar and warm the titanium up opening up the chain stay to accommodate a wider tire. Back then they were using 19mm tires. Now it will take a 28mm max but I run 25mm tires. It’s a lot faster now. Something about a modern 12 speed drivetrain. Shifting is so positive and never misses a shift or drops a chain. SRAM force wireless derailleur have come way down in price. I use blips. Two buttons on the inside of my hoods for shifting. So easy! Really saves the knees because I’m always in the perfect gears. I can also keep up with those fast group rides now because I’m shifting faster than everyone else. I sold my high end carbon bike because I love the road feel of a classic bike. Even better with modern components.
I like the look of the bike!
Awesome upgrades!😊
Greetings from Croatia from Kris 😎
Thank you! Glad you're watching!
Love the build. I own a Miyata 914 triple butted splined and it is the sleeper in my collection. Just hollotech bb, 50-34 ( for my old legs) 6 speed dt indexed shifters ( Suntour) and a great set of wheels, durace hubs.. It rides as good or better than my reynolds 531, ishiwata 022 and columbus. Just a joy to ride. I got into the hobby after retirement and working on the old steel frames is good therapy and keeps me out of bars. Happy new year and thanks for the videos, keep them coming.
PS, tektro has 539 brakes with both nutted and recessed mounts.
Awesome bike! Im a fan of the Miyata splined tubing too. Miyata's have always been a bit stiffer than the rest back then. Correct on the Tektro brakes! Thanks
I've just finished restoring my English built '79 Knight, R531 F&F/Campy drop-outs, with full Dura Ace 7100 gen2. Only things I've changed are the wheels with an 8s block, saddle and some spuds. I did have to shoehorn the rear wheel in, a little! 😁
Good video! ✌️🇬🇧
This is the best way to go today! Rides perfectly smooth, perfect brakes and perfect shifting. You can get great bike for 1000 EUR
Very enlightening!❤🎉
Great video HOMIE,,,,,I was bitten by the bicycle bug since 1972 ( Eddy Merckx hour record era) and the classic frames are better than carbon.
Homie! LOL. I almost retook that shot..But it was funny. Whats your bike of choice?
I still have my 1982 Trek 736 steel road bike, I believe it came with 700x25c clincher tires but those tires dried up and cracked to pieces. I replaced them with 26mm wide 'gravel' tires, they were the widest I could mount due to my narrow rim width and brake caliper clearance. The original Suntour Superbe component group is still on the bike and I'm still using the friction shifters on the downtube but I did managed to find replacement gum rubber brake lever hoods.
The saddle, handlebar, and stem were swapped out for more modern gravel-style pieces and the toe-clip pedals were replaced with modern flat pedals. The bike is more comfortable to ride now that the riding position is just a bit more upright and not bent so aggressively tucked into a time trial race position. Don't get me wrong, the geometry is still a fast and responsive road bike but I think I just took the edge off of it so that my old bones can ride it longer.
I was gonna sell my old Specialized Sirrus, my first road bike bought back in 1989. But as I had it apart for cleaning and getting back together, I was looking at it across my room and realized I just really don't want to part with it. So I'm taking the ten speed 105 drivetrain from another bike that I did sell, and am in the process of putting it on this bike. Haven't ridden this bike in years, I'm looking forward to getting back on it.
Amazing video. I m a big fan of putting modern parts on a retro frame.
Thanks! I appreciate you watching.
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage great episode and lovely backgrounds as well 😍
Great vid sir! Inspired to find me a vintage bike now!
You wont regret it. The ride is different than any of the new bicycles
Great build 👏
Thanks!
I'm currently trying to do this with an 80's Daccordi frame. Thank you for the tips.
Check out the linked video.. Shows you some options. Thanks!
Very interesting!
Nice garage Sir!
Thank you. Thanks for watching
By coincidence I just purchased a Masi Evolutione frame and the headset is tapered 1.5 at the bottom of the head tube and standard 1 1/8” at the top. His was a new one for me. This is a modern frame issue. Love your show!
Hey thanks!
Thank you SOOOO Much I have a vintage Raleigh Competition from 86 I am restoring.
Hey awesome, how are you going to build it up?
Great video
That's a good collection of bikes..❤
Thank you much!
New to channel great knowledge love the steel Just bought a 1999 carrera 😎
Welcome! Glad you found us. Enjoy the Carrera!
Subscribed! Thanks for your channel.
I appreciate it. Its mostly comfort TV for the vintage road bike enthusiast. Not usually a "how too" channel. Check out my other vids and let me know what you think.
Thank you for this video. I have assembled a road bicycle that combines a steel frame from the 80s and a brand new Shimano Claris groupset. The bottom bracket needed threading, the space between dropouts was too narrow, and brake fastener holes had to be drilled wider so that recessed bolts could fit. It was worth it, though. The frame was designed for road racing, and was built in Portugal using Ishiwata tubing and lugs that bear more than a passing resemblance with those used by Bianchi in 1970's Specialissima. It's the best of both worlds: a beautiful, sturdy and comfortable frame with components that, as you say, shift better, brake better and give an overall better ride than epoch ones. And all under the price of a new budget aluminium-framed road bike.
P. S. Mavic Aksium wheels and Continental tyres are a match made in heaven.
Sounds like an epic build! Should be a great ride. I'm working on another retro-mod.. coming soon. Thanks for watching!
Awesome job 👍,
Thank you! Cheers!
Make sure your skewers have a serrated clamping surface if the dropouts are horizontal. It’s easy to pull the drive side forward if the clamping force and friction is not strong enough.
I was doing the western end of the Katy trail on a 87 Sirrus back in 2005 & 2006. Great fun!
Looks like a great trail. Watched 5 TH-camrs do that route and they all shared that you needed more than 32C tires if it rains. Would you agree!
I rode it in the summers on 28mm tires but dry. I would think that a 32 would be better in the wet. I'd defer to their experience.
They all agreed with you. When it's dry you can ride your 28s. But you begin to sink when its wet. I have the same problem with the Illinois Prairie path next to the garage!@@greghodge4093
Anything can fit anything depending on access to equipment, skill level and budget. I cold set an elswick turbo 12 to accept a modern wheel, and also fitted modern index shifters. It rides really well, and as it was such an inexpensive frame it was great to experiment on, as it was only £10 if it went wrong.
Just looked at your channel. This is much less dangerous! lol
Fun video! I found that some of the newer rear-derailleurs like Campy 12sp and Shimano mid/long cage on older frames need to have something like a Wolf Tooth Roadlink as the derailluer hanger is just not long enought to handle anything bigger than a 25/26, I could not get my 11-32T shifting cleanly until I put one of these in. The B-screw simply ran out of thread and I could not get the lowest gear to wrap cleanly. On a couple of different frames, one roadlink went on vertically (41cm stays), on another frame(41.5 stays), I installed horizontally and it worked like a charm, shifts were great and crisp.
That is valuable information. Thanks so much. Can you in the comments here put a link to the product you're talking about? Thanks for watching
Love this build
Thanks!
I converted this year my 35 Year old Crossbike to 12 Speed: 180€ Chinese Groupset and 100€ new rearwheel with 11speed freehub. I did not cold bend the frame i just widened the frame and put the wheel in the frame. Changing wheel is now a little bit laborious. I did not changed the crankset, but changed to 1 chainring. I put this chainring 5mm more to the left to compensate the chainline because the new cassette is wider.
Nice video. One caution. Make sure the group set you are installing has the right brakes for your bike. Most vintage bikes are dual pivot or side pull but newish road bike groups frequently use dual pivot symmetrical mounts. If in doubt park too has a good page on rim brake identification
Good tip!
I’ve built five vintage steel frames up using various flavors of Sram Etap. Each has turned a fine steel frame into a thoroughly modern riding experience
Couldn’t agree more. The only issue I’ve encountered is the snobbery of the “purists”. Mine’s a 1986 Team Panasonic Raleigh now with (actually functional) Campagnolo Centaur that looks and rides like the nuts
That's really cool! I have one in the works myself. My '06 Cinelli. I'm going to put some semi-modern campy on it. Should be a fun build
I have my original Miyata I bought in 1991 new. Came stock with Biopace crank set, since replaced. I have thought about updating it more, this video might just get me to take a serious look at the idea.
Miyata is a great frame to build from for sure! I call Biopace, Biodisgrace. LOL Go for it!
Fleabay that biopace stuff to mashers and buy a Vuelta compact crank set
So I have a 1986 Chrome Molybdenum frame on the wall of my garage and I have seen a couple of videos talking retro fits. I haven't seen one that talks chrome moly frames though and mine was owned brand new. I stopped using it because the gears and cogs wore out, with my front cog teeth looking like shark fins. The wheels were also suss because of brake block wear on the rims. Funnily enough the bike was built with quick release wheels. Tragically, I live in Aus so the fitout will still cost a quid or two.
Love your content:D
Thanks!
Great video, thanks. One important thing you didn't mention is wheel size. My steeel 1982 Raleigh has 27" wheels rather than 700c (630mm rim rather than 622mm). It's not easy to swap to 700c as it's difficult to get deep drop brakes with the extra 4mm of reach. Also it is relatively simple to use modern brakes on a frame which originally had 'nutted' brakes. The modern front brake has the correct length bolt to use as the rear brake. The short bolt on the remaining brake can be replaced with a longer one for the front.
Thanks. I did fail to mention that. However, I was assuming that if they were putting modern parts on a bike they would be using modern wheels.. All are 700c. Then they have to pick the correct brakes that are compatible with that. You make a great point! Thanks
Really great video!
I've just built myself a a Motobecane singlespeed from an old but heavy frame.
Had a lot of hassle getting the rear wheel back in, turns out it was a 135mm axle in a 130mm frame.
I bought the bike 2nd hand.
Couldn't find any 130mm rear axles, thinking about sawing the 5mm that are too much off.
I wont lie. Ive done it. LOL
Sweet ride
Thanks
"Repair bottom brackets" are great. They thread into their own cups without regard to busted threads or french bb threading
I built up a 1986 Specialized Allez a few years ago with a 2012 10 spd groupset, Fulcrum Racing Quattro wheelset, and a 1997 Profile carbon fork. The bike was bought by a friend of mine right after he graduated college in '86, he gave it to another friend about 10 yrs ago, and then he passed it onto me. The bike rides so nice that I am selling the frame of my full carbon Masi.
I still have the original steel fork, but the 1" headset was cracked. I may eventually buy a newer 1" headset and swap back to the original fork.
I ride a tiny 46cm 1986 Cannondale M300 frame. Cut the brake bosses off, polished the frame. Used first gen Shimano 600 medium drop touring brakes and now the bike runs 10 speed Shimano 105 / R500 700c rims. 130mm quill stem, 25.4 x 36 cm bars. Cook Brother Racing cranks. Love old American built frames.
Wow. that's what I call a conversion! incredible spec!
All of my road bikes(minus the gravel bike) either started their life with me as restomods, or currently do have modern components on them. I think for a bike meant to be ridden, the only thing that matters is that whoever is riding it likes riding it. If modern components keep a bike out on the road, I don't think they can be a bad thing.
For one of my bikes, I went about it wanting to use a part from as many decades as possible, along with as many brands as I could fit into it. It's got a sram red groupset, shimano wheels(or rather, it did before I upgraded to a dynamo front hub), campagnolo H11 crankset(the chainline is within spec, I checked), it had suntour superbe brakes with kool stop cross pad holders(I did have to use some washers behind the nuts to comfortably mount the brakes to the frame), SR Royal ESL stem(the hollow one with titanium hardware!), and a Tange Levin CDS headset(30mm stack height - a good solution if your fork is just barely too short, I actually needed spacers for mine). It rides so well I actually converted my other restomod to 2x10 friction shifting, so I didn't have 2 bikes with similar riding experiences.
Wow. crazy diverse bike. Awesome!
In addition to the Team (DuraAce EX) there is the Aero (DuraAce AX). Both were great bikes of the time-if not quirky. And yeah, the big issue was the tire clearance, they made it reaallllly tight. The vest you can do (in the modern sense) is a 25 mm sew up. That will ride nicely but…
Ive seen only a few of those. Last one around here was at Cycle Smithy in Chicago. Mark sold it for 11K! It was NOS
Watch your headset stack height. I redid my 1973 Mercian Super Vigorelli (track bike) a year ago after Mercian resprayed it and installed a new bridge so I can install a rear brake (as needed). Took me forever to find a short 1" thread to fit. It was originally a Campagnolo Record Pista headset (loose balls) and long worn out. Works great with (2000 era not 1970s) Record Pista 32 spoke tubular wheels, original Cinelli 64 bars and 1A stem, 170 mm Record Pista Cranks (Phil square taper BB) and Record Titanium seat post. Use it on the Atlanta Velodrome for fun.
Other things the spacing of the BB needs to be taken into account, as a replacement record BB with the new Pista cranks did not have chainring clearance. So I went with Phil Wood. Finding spokes was a real challenge! Hardly anyone mainatins spokes like the old days. 😞
OH GREAT tip on the headset for sure! This being about converting to modern components the BB length and compatibility of the cranks are always suspect. Of course when changing to other vintage parts BB spindle length is always in question. Thanks for the great tips!
Deda does the a set of modern handlebars with a compact drop and flat bar to hood transition in 26mm so you can run it with a quill stem. The model is called Piega. I have it on my neo retro build, it's much nicer to use and really elevates the look as well.
Nice! good imput!
Love the video. My channel is motorcycle focused at the moment, but I feel I should expand it to bikes, as I have classic (1965 Viking Conquest) classic carbon (92 trek 2300) resto mod (84 elswick turbo 12) a ‘who knows’ single speed, and a heavily modified 2022 Vitus razor. Cycling is a great way to keep in shape for motorcycle drag racing.
Great Crosstraining?
Absolutely, lighter means faster, so cycling is a great way of being faster at the strip!
Very cool 🎉🎉🎉
Thanks!
Inspirational video !
I have an 81/82 MIYATA Pro Aero that has been much modified since I bought it new.
Mostly Sun Tour Superbe. The front forks are Cinelli Crown like yours with very narrow chromed blades.
Some time ago I decided to leave it modified with its professional fade paint from silver blue to blue at the back.
I have rethought this. I am going to strip it and repaint it in the original blue paint and upgrade some of the components as you have.
I already got a full set of decals.
I am still baffled about the exact original MIYATA frame blue paint.
Also because of the low brake bridges I cannot run anything over a 23 and some 23s are too large. I am currently running 20s.
Any thoughts as to equipment ?
Also.. Just curious, where did you get the Porsche Logo on the wall ?
Interesting that you can't run 25c tires. Im doing it with mine.
Maybe chat with a professional frame painter. Doug Fattic, Jeffrey Bock maybe? They might be able to help with the original color.
Not sure what you're trying to accomplish in regards to equipment.
Are you talking about the Porsche Shield? That was made by a local artist. If you would like I can probably get the guys name.
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage
Thanks for the painter contact. I'll check with them.
I am in So Oregon near Ashland. There is a Bike Mechanic school there. I'll see if there is a local painter, if not I'll
contact Rivendell.
As to equipment.. it's been a long time since I have ridden this bike and have forgotten I did some changes
I just checked the rear cluster and forgot that I widened the rear and installed a 7 cog and may be at the
limit on the low side using the Suntour Superbe Derailleur. Would like to go a bit lower.
Suntorue Superbe brakes at the wheel are fine but would like to upgrade the braker levers.
Handle bars are original and narrow.
Seat is archaic and have not purchased any in years except for Brooks on my two Rivendells.
Porsche LOGO. Curious because it looks similar to what I make. I do Euro and British auto and motorcycle
Logos and now doing Bicycle Logo art. Hand drawn, hand painted.
Everything said very good! But when the frame doesnt allows all modern components, then there is always the chance to put a flip-flop hub in the rear, 3mm spacers both sides to get from 120 to 126mm and ride it free or fixed :)
My first real bike was a woman's frame bike from the 1940s. My mother got it second hand for her 15th birthday. It originally had a 110 rear for a Sturmey Archer 3 -speed internal gear hub but that was not working by the time I got to it 30 years later. I ran it as a single speed till 1985 when I retromodded it to take a 120, 5- speed derailleur freewheel. I didn't think twice about bending the rear triangle out from 110 to 120 because I didn't know any better but I never had any problems with it.
Edit: I don't know how that section of text got a line through it....
Cool, I've just bought the same bike (1981 pro) but in much worse shape, and has been turned into a fixed gear. I'm still trying to figure out what I'd like to do with it, this helps.
I put a modern group set on my 1985 Cannondale, didn’t have to space it out or anything, all I had to do was remove a spacer on my wheel hubs to get it to fit perfectly. The wheel falls into it perfectly. I also decided to keep using the braze on friction shifters just because I like them
How modern? How many speeds? Did you remove the spacer from the left side?
I ride a resto mod 3Rensho and it's as fast as anything or anyone I ride with. A great bike holds up and the one you built is gorgeous. I would say modernizing a bike was a lot easier 10 years ago. Now with electronic shifting, thru axles, disc brakes, etc, it's getting trickier. I really wish someone was still making high end silver alloy parts. That would be amazing.
You weren't on ragbrai 50 by any chance, were you?
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage Yes sir. We chatted. It's going in for paint and factory original decals soon. Just got the parts off.
@@krisevans5479 super cool. I actually picked up a frame similar to yours but it's too small for me. I'm going to flip it. Who are you sending it to to get a painted?
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage Yellow Jersey Bike Shop. They are an old Madison bike shop that specializes in niche special steel bikes. They were one of the only 3Rensho dealers in the US back in the day, and sold mine originally back in 83. Sorry to hear yours was too small. The search continues!
@@krisevans5479 would you email me at the email address shown at the top of my page? I have some questions if you will.
Thinking of picking up a modern cinelli super corsa frame and throwing on some fairly modern campag think that would be sweet 🤔
Nice bug 👍
I have a 2006 in red. You can see my video on the channel. Im going to take that and put a Chorus or Record 10/11 speed group on it. Cant wait. Good luck with that. The bug Belongs to my sister inlaw. I keep it warm in the winter for her! Thanks!
Bill Triplet had a 6 speed 11-26, Team Miyata, with the Dyno-Drive pedals and cranks. Shimano bars, stem, and seatpost. He rode from the old Action shop.
Haven't seen him in years.
You will see him in my Ragbrai video I did in August. He's going strong! Kicked my butt across Iowa.
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage It's good that he's still riding big miles. Does he still have the Miyata?
re: BB threads... don't forget the Swiss! Isn't that what your Oschner has? re: spreading the rear end.. kudos for mentioning the risk of bending the axle if you don't get the rear dropouts realigned. That's a subtle detail that gets overlooked. All in all, I'd say that you did a fine job of fitting modern gear to your Miyata!
Thanks much.. Swiss??? I'll be brazenly honest. I've never heard of a Swiss threaded bb!
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage My memory is hazy, so I checked Sheldon Brown's website. It says that Swiss is "Same thread as French, but fixed cup is left- threaded for reliability." I wonder if anyone makes BB's for it now?
I wish this stuff was more common knowledge.
My road bike is from 1988 with Columbus SLX tubing, and with all new parts including an 11 speed drivetrain and Ritchey Zeta classic wheelset with tan wall Schwalbe one tyres it rides really really great! I also made sure to put only silver coloured parts on it to keep the classic look.
The old high end SLX frameset and the fresh parts give the bike an amazing responsive and tight feel, and my frame takes up to 30mm tyres as well which is plenty for this bike.
Total weight including pedals 8.7kg! Total build cost about 1300 euros or 1450 USD, which I think is great value for how well it rides. Although I did get the frameset for free.
That's the spirit of this video. What a great combo!
Tip of the hat to frame builder Jeff Bock!
He's a hero! I love his work
Love resto-mods. Mine:
‘84 Miyata 710 1x11 - Shimano 105 RD (+RoadLink), 11-40 cassette, 42T ring, Shimano 600 brakes, crank, seatpost (flat bar cafe bike)
‘87 Bianchi Brava 1x11 - Shimano RX812 RD, 11-42 cassette, Shimano 1055 crank w/44T ring, 105 brifters and brakes (main training, events bike)
‘89 Centurion LeMans 1x7 - Claris RD, 14-34 cassette, Shimano 1050 crank w/42T ring, Claris brakes (wife's bike)
The problem with electronic shifting is most of the brifters only support hydro disc brakes.
Nice stable of bikes. GREAT Point with the electric shifting! Hope everyone takes note.
Agree with what you're saying here John. The important thing for me is that the frame gets continued to be used in the manner that the guy who built it intended it to be - especially if it's a race frame. So yes, be able to stop, yes be comfortable, yes have the good selection of gears and then there is no reason why you connot be competitive on a vintage steel frame. One additional thing that I do sometimes is replace the original fork for an early carbon fork with a steel steering tube - then you can retain the regular threaded headset and stem. This knocks 250gm/0.55lb off the weight without compromising the looks to much. Both Look and Time did these sort of forks, you just have to be patient to find them second hand. Doing this and a few other tricks it's well possible to build a vintage steel frame into something that weighs in the 7.5 - 8kg / 16.5lbs - 17.5lbs class. So you lose almost nothing evening going uphill. The plus side - you almost always have a conversation starter with someone who admires your bike!
I considered that. This bike weighs in at exactly 20lbs. If I want it lighter instead of ordering a fork, I'll order a salad next time at dinner! LOL. thanks for watching!
I’m building up two vintage Schwinn frames for my wife and I using Sensah Empire 2x11 speed. The shifters are silver to match the other components, and the hoods are brown to match the saddle and bar tape. Overall the bikes will have modern functionality with vintage looks.
That's the goal of many!
Good tips, thanks for sharing! Do you have any recommendation as to how preserve the paint especially on old frames? Carnauba wax or sth. like that?
Hi, Honestly not an expert. Im using some Ceramic coating. The real stuff that you use on cars. (not the spray bottle stuff)
Nice 👍
Thanks ✌
Another great video, great information.
Do you have any contacts for any 70’, 80’ or 90’ road race bike in 49 or 50 cm seat tube sizing? Thanks in advance.
Hi, I usually shop in several places. Ebay, bikeforums.net, FB marketplace, craiglist and I belong to forums where you can get the word out. Plus, on Facebook there are many vintage groups. Best is called Steel is real.. There are a few with that name.. Check it out
Awesome build and frameset color,how much does it weigh?
I just can add: Measure everything. There are, for example old french steer tubes with inner diameters of 22mm. Usually you have 22.2mm. No normal stem will fit. Also then you have to consider there are at least 3 diameters of the handlebar clams. Old, new.. and french you know. In central europe you will see a lot of different components.
Great catch on the french steer tube! Even some of the Schwinns had that size!
Yes, I have had 2 frensh bikes.One Peugeot and a Motobecane. There was not even one thread that fit normal standard although they use metric threading.
Bottom bracket :
Peugeot 35×1 right ,right (french threading)
Motobecane 35×1 left ,right
(Swiss threading) and on top of that all bolts 5×1 ( not ISO metric standard M5×0,8 ).
A Pain to get spareparts.
Never again french steelbikes.😅
As a rule of thumb: 7 speeds bikes and above are directly upgradable (130/135 spacing). I also upgraded two with modern groupset, one in black (chorus) and one in silver (centaur). Silver componentry and wheels are not easy to find new now.
7 speed was often still 126 mm spacing (road) or 130 mm spacing (mtb). The switch to 130 for road and 135 mm for mtb came at 8 speed! There are some exceptions for 7-speed mtb hubs with 135 mm spacing, butas far as I know 6/7 speed road hubs were always spaced at 126 mm. Credit to Sheldon Brown / Bicycle Frame/Hub Spacing!
Good video thank you.
I once cold set the back triangle on a Benotto, to fit a fixed gear, in other words I shortened the space to 120mm. With time the welds failed on the dropouts and the frame was toast. Be careful. When cold setting
Add metric nuts and ride it
Respacing the hub is always best in this situation. A half an hour and a few bucks in spacers and you're done.
@@Rabnes25 yes, but what if fixed gear axles are too short for that? This is the hardest part of converting a race bike to fixed gear.
@@Jack42Frost it would depend how much you are trying to space out the hub. 126 to 120 is 3mm per side. I've had great luck with this personally. 130 or 135 is a different animal. At that point I'd just buy a gun that was spaced appropriately.
@@Jack42Frost buy 150mm axles from a lowrider shop and build the wheel to fit. Just add a couple nuts before sawing the excess off and filing them, to chase the threads
If I were doing a retro rebuild, I would skip the old cranks altogether. Instead, I'd purchase one of the cranks that Rene Herse sells. They address the two weakness of the old cranks. The RH cranks are forged as opposed to firms like Campagnolo that CNC'd their cranks so they are stronger. The RH cranks also use bottom spindles with the JIS taper for a more stable connection with the crank. Combining these advantages means far less trimming of the front derailleur. Of course, Shimano hit their crank high water mark with Octalink that almost completely eliminated crankarm sway at a far less cost than a RH crank will cost.
Glad your interest in road bikes hasn't faded as the years pass by ...
Thanks. I love them more and more.
I have put full wireless electronic group sets on traditional steel frames. I even had a modern steel Rawland Ravn drilled and gusseted (reinforced holes) to run Di2 wiring internally so it’s very possible even with wired groups if you know someone who can modify the frame correctly (a Rawland has traditional tubing sizes so this isn’t anything exotic.) I’m sure people will wonder why you would do such a thing, but in my case, I have neurological problems that prevent me from actuating mechanical brifters, so it’s really the only way I can ride.
Wow, interesting. So glad you got that to work!
Thankyou for dis awesome video! I learned a lot. I was bugged if I can put a modern groupset to my classic gt frame and was planning to sell it to buy a new modern bike, but now, dis video changed my mind! Thanks! Do you have any recommendation of what groupset should I get for my gt? Thanks in advance!
I used a be the GT factory rep in Chicago all through the 90s. They had great frames. What group set? That's up to your budget. Shimano 105 or Ultegra, SRAM force? Which GT frame do you have?
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage thankyou sir! I also don't know what bottom bracket should i get, does the bb of 105 or ultegra fits to my gt frame?
@@JohnsVintageRoadBikeGarage i think i have a gt force roadbike
@@berlinfelicia15 That's a good frame. Go to town! I'd be curious what you settle on for parts.
@@berlinfelicia15 your GT has a standard English bottom bracket. You need one with an external bearing. Thread in