This guy is the man! Your video fixed my front end wander after 5 shops and two years with no fix, until your video! Thank you for putting out videos and helping people. Can’t wait till your channel blows up.
Once the patch panel is trimmed, bin the marker, grab your grinder with a skinny 1mm cutting disc & cut around the patch (clamp it in place so it doesn't shimmy) cutting through the bodywork as well. If you tilt your cutting disc so it "Undercuts" the patch panel - bang - perfect fit every time, which cutting to a marked line will NEVER achieve. If you try follow a marked line, your disc will always wander/be off/nothing will fit nice - cut around the actual patch itself (or even cut through both the patch & the body) and bingo - she fits like a glove. It's just a whole lot easier. :-)
I know as I do this stuff ^^ day in and day out at work, btw. All we do is rust repair - nothing else. Eventually you get good at it/work out what works. I started at it in 1984.. :-)
Would you recommend just going through both the patch panel and body before even trimming anything or should I trim the patch first then cut around it on the body?
@@arctic975There is success in either method you question , the critical factor is in the alignment of the metal edges and the welds. You want the original panel and patch edges to align perfectly then the weld needs to be very hot for a full fast penetration, jump the welds around as he said. Grind only the weld down to flush then DA sand the entire area smooth . Don’t rush and you can have a really good repair better than many shops will do and only need a thin skim of filler.
@@InTheShop just put a new bedside from ford on my 14 f350 power stroke. Was minor and just starting, but it was toast and the truck was otherwise pristine, mostly. Now it’s the 03’s turn, and this seems perfect.
Excellent video...! My 2012 F-250 is going into semi-retirement and I wanna clean up those wheel arches and replace the bed floor and rails. Seems like take-off beds are up quite a bit in price, so this is a great alternative....
Thoughts on welding on the back side of the panel so that you avoid having to grind paint side. I’ve done similar jobs plenty of times where this approach isn’t an option but I’m in the same boat with the inner liner so the room will be there. Just wondering if anyone has had success or tried doing it this way .
@@ojmcbaggins almost any wire feed welder would get the job done. I like to stay away from flux core so any gas shielded machine will do. Honestly the harbor freight Vulcan machines are pretty nice for the money.
What kind of cordless tool are you using with the cookie wheels? Is it just a small drill, or is it some sort of higher speed grinder? Does it need an attachment to fit the cookie wheels?
@@InTheShop it was a good video ! I like watching others work .. LOL. I am not a body-man myself, I have done very similar repairs my self though ... and I found if your gaps are very close you can tig it with very little distortion .. or if you have the "fancy" new inverter mig machine like the millers with RMD or some HTP or fronius welders you can run full length beads without warpage or distortion ... but not everyone has the fancy stuff ... for what you are doing there there is nothing wrong with spot welding the entire thing ..... its not like its a load bearing part and maximum strength is. concern ... this is a purely cosmetic repair ...
Hello can you please help me out I need someone to fix a 1997 ford van it's rot rust on the undercarriage frame how much will you charge to fix it I really need some help
Why not cleaning the rusted area first before cutting the replacement part? This way you can replace a still perfect part. Plus it is always smart to leave a couple of mm to slowly massage the replacement in place
This guy is the man! Your video fixed my front end wander after 5 shops and two years with no fix, until your video!
Thank you for putting out videos and helping people. Can’t wait till your channel blows up.
Thank you!
Once the patch panel is trimmed, bin the marker, grab your grinder with a skinny 1mm cutting disc & cut around the patch (clamp it in place so it doesn't shimmy) cutting through the bodywork as well. If you tilt your cutting disc so it "Undercuts" the patch panel - bang - perfect fit every time, which cutting to a marked line will NEVER achieve. If you try follow a marked line, your disc will always wander/be off/nothing will fit nice - cut around the actual patch itself (or even cut through both the patch & the body) and bingo - she fits like a glove. It's just a whole lot easier. :-)
I know as I do this stuff ^^ day in and day out at work, btw. All we do is rust repair - nothing else. Eventually you get good at it/work out what works. I started at it in 1984.. :-)
Cut and butt
Would you recommend just going through both the patch panel and body before even trimming anything or should I trim the patch first then cut around it on the body?
@@arctic975There is success in either method you question , the critical factor is in the alignment of the metal edges and the welds. You want the original panel and patch edges to align perfectly then the weld needs to be very hot for a full fast penetration, jump the welds around as he said. Grind only the weld down to flush then DA sand the entire area smooth .
Don’t rush and you can have a really good repair better than many shops will do and only need a thin skim of filler.
good timing , with winter being almost done and all. my older super duty looks just like this..good candidate.
Hopefully this helped you. It’s not fun work that’s for sure haha
@@InTheShop just put a new bedside from ford on my 14 f350 power stroke. Was minor and just starting, but it was toast and the truck was otherwise pristine, mostly. Now it’s the 03’s turn, and this seems perfect.
I'm glad you got this bed wheel arch repaired well done
Your ipr oil cooler install vid is helping me finish up my truck. I really appreciate the videos and glad to see you are still putting out new ones!
Excellent video...!
My 2012 F-250 is going into semi-retirement and I wanna clean up those wheel arches and replace the bed floor and rails. Seems like take-off beds are up quite a bit in price, so this is a great alternative....
Great video man! Nice pointers, very important information! 👊
Thank you!!!
Thank you for this video!! Will help me a lot working on my F350 bed!
Good to see you again, and another nice video. I hope your truck turns out great man.
Thank you! Going in for paint soon. Can’t wait for the reveal
Great video bro you’d make a great teacher✌🏽
Awesome video awesome tips
Very nice & well done. Keep it up!
Thank you!
Great video brother, keep’m coming
Thanks Fran!
Good stuff Nate 👍🏻
Thank you!
Thank you for the advices, God bless,
Just found your channel. Really helpful! Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
good job nate
Thanks Ben!
Awesome video my friend!!
Thank you! Glad to see your channel growing too!
I loved it.
Thank you!
Thoughts on welding on the back side of the panel so that you avoid having to grind paint side. I’ve done similar jobs plenty of times where this approach isn’t an option but I’m in the same boat with the inner liner so the room will be there. Just wondering if anyone has had success or tried doing it this way .
Y no more zuki buggy rig videos?! ? I'm dying to see more progress on the LS SWAP zuki buggy rig !!!
Hi I'm in the United Kingdom and we say step welding is just a lazy way..your opinion is the right thing to do..
Something to mention for guys that don’t take the box off the truck . Disconcert ALL of your battery cables before welding as you can fry your pcm .
Unplug the PCM too, you don;t want to take any chances.
How can I find this metal patch for my particular vehicle any help would be appreciated
Nice. I have the same repairs to make on my 06 f350
Hopefully this helps!
@In The Shop any advice on welders? I'm a welding noob and have no equipment, though am definetly capable of making this repair.
@@ojmcbaggins almost any wire feed welder would get the job done. I like to stay away from flux core so any gas shielded machine will do. Honestly the harbor freight Vulcan machines are pretty nice for the money.
@@InTheShop thanks so much, harbor freight was my go to as ill only use it a few times in my life
What kind of cordless tool are you using with the cookie wheels? Is it just a small drill, or is it some sort of higher speed grinder? Does it need an attachment to fit the cookie wheels?
I gotta do mine
its pronounced you pole.... its good stuff they also make raptor liner ....
Haha I figured I was saying it wrong. Thanks for watching!
@@InTheShop it was a good video ! I like watching others work .. LOL. I am not a body-man myself, I have done very similar repairs my self though ... and I found if your gaps are very close you can tig it with very little distortion .. or if you have the "fancy" new inverter mig machine like the millers with RMD or some HTP or fronius welders you can run full length beads without warpage or distortion ... but not everyone has the fancy stuff ... for what you are doing there there is nothing wrong with spot welding the entire thing ..... its not like its a load bearing part and maximum strength is. concern ... this is a purely cosmetic repair ...
Could you recommend a good coolant forum the 6.0. We do not have Rotella available where I live. Same problem with cat.
Use air or damp not wet towel to keep it cool
How much for the avalanche or little go car???
Hello can you please help me out I need someone to fix a 1997 ford van it's rot rust on the undercarriage frame how much will you charge to fix it I really need some help
Mines next, I'm dropping it off in the am...lol...
I was waiting for you to drop off today but you never showed! Haha.
Where’s the updated video?
Overlap patches are the lazy mans repair that ironically takes more time and money to do. Do it right the first time and butt weld (like you did here)
Hi check fritzees cut butt method really works john uk
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I wish I would have watched this video before I did my rear panels on the duramax. Lots of fiber glass filler.
Other side should go better! Thanks.
3:29 That seems risky. 🤔
Why not cleaning the rusted area first before cutting the replacement part? This way you can replace a still perfect part. Plus it is always smart to leave a couple of mm to slowly massage the replacement in place
👍🖖
Fiberglass WAY EASIER