These videos are brilliant. I'm rebuilding my Dodge Dakota. Got all the mechanical stuff done, now it's time to rebuild the body. I got a box from the dump that's in better shape than mine, but it still needs wheel arches and rockers, and at least one cab corner. I have all the new patch panels. Just need to learn to weld first, ha ha. These videos give me hope.
@@LakesideAutobodyI know nothing but I do have a question just seen different tuber show me for first time a flange tool. Would you consider using a overlay versus a butt splice for the old to new sheet metal.
@@JohnnyAtlas You can used a flange tool if you prefer but in a high volume body shop there's really no time to mess with it. Cut the rust out, cut a patch, weld, knock it down, fill. That's it - every time - every hole. You can't always use the flange tool - wheel well lips, rockers, sharp bodylines and corners, around tail lights.... so the thinking is why use it anywhere - if a simple lap joint works. Here's a good video that can clear things up a bit - th-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/w-d-xo.html
Got over 350K miles out of my old 1990 Bonneville before rust did it in. Cool to see rust fixed now and then. Wish I had done that with mine in the past before it got too bad.
I sure enjoy watching a real Pro work. I've gained an incredible amount of knowledge from watching your videos. So much so that I tackled my son's rust bucket '02 Sierra project and it actually came out ok! It's a Michigan truck and the rust was rusted. I can't thank you enough for creating and posting these videos! 💯💪🤙
Thanks Doug - I love hearing stories like that - awesome 👍 Each job you do, you get better so... If that looked decent just think how they'll look down the road. Keep me posted on future projects my friend 😊
@Lakeside Autobody , I think I had to use 18 ga on the truck, it was what ALRO steel had available at the time. It was a bit stiff 🤓 Thank you for the response
I have watched several of your videos and though I’m experienced doing rust repair in my home garage on my projects, especially on trucks, I still pick up new ideas and techniques from you. Also like some of your dent removal techniques. One thing I started doing after watching your videos is using a cheese grader. I’ll keep watching and learning!
@@LakesideAutobody it was a 1994 Harley heritage my son rides it now , my other son rides my 1999 standard bat wing , both bikes have 130 k miles on them I don't ride any more legs' are to week and I'm 70 years old , but I still restore cars and trucks. thanks for asking.
Happy to come across this video today - 1) b/c just picked up an older reasonable millage Dodge ram with similar rust issues and 2) a few weeks ago my new arccaptain Mig 200 arrived and I haven't even started playing with it. Nice coincidence that you are using the same and showed your settings so I know where to start.
Jerry I had to watch this again I enjoyed it so much. Question, are we going to see the finished F-150 project? Finish paint, etc. I bet it looks like new. Take care.
A get it done kind of guy! Im going to use your techniques when repairing rust on my 84 ford bronco, i have to use patch panels in the rear quarters because they no longer produce the entire quarter panel. Thanks for the videos!!
I’m going to try teaching myself how to do so extensive rust repair on an old minivan. I’ll probably end up buying some premade pieces but some will be freehand. Thanks for posting these vids and giving us a reference to turn to in a jam.
I've seen a lot of welding near explosives in body shops I've worked in - surprisingly never even a fire. Guys smoked cigarettes while spraying primer, cut off bumpers with a tank next to it, etc. How about muffler shops - they have to be doing this all the time 😊
Just when I think I can't learn anything more from you- -you go ahead and educate me more and more and more I learn and just get dumbfounded amazed with slackjaw. 😮
So, my truck is doing the same thing living in salt-road Ohio. But I can't do that kind of metal work. Haven't quite figured out what to do yet. Not sure if it's inappropriate for me to ask about how much (roughly) it costs to have a body technician do a job like that. But either way, that's some really good work.
@@charlesbarr3561 Thanks Charles. Odds are you probably won't find anyone to do it. They'd probably suggest a new bed or box side at least. A box side is probably around $700 so I'm thinkin' a ballpark estimate might be $2000 to have someone replace the box side. Depends a lot on the individual shop. It's very expensive today because of cost of paint, materials, labor, etc. Hope that helps a bit :)
@@LakesideAutobody that's exactly what I was thinking. I don't think any of the body shops I know would pick up a job like that. I should probably start looking for a bed side, the bed itself has been discontinued for a while. I appreciate the honest response. Can't wait to watch the next video. 👍
I Like your videos you do the same Type of work as my Late Brother did he made Bench shears from 1/2 inch steel 18inch Long It made the process so much easier They was great for 1/8 sheets keep up the good work ps am from the UK 🇬🇧 AGE 62
All these quarter-panel/arch/inner arch issues come from above - seals that leak around the screens/boots/etc etc & let water down inside the panels. Always. Keep an eye on your seals.. Stuff like this I no longer bother making up panels - I toddle along to a scrapyard & chop a better section out of one of their vehicles, weld that better section onto the car I am repairing. Cut your "donor" panel good & big - trim it to fit when you get home. Just glancing at the chassis, that vehicle is toast anyway unless the entire chassis gets a treatment pretty swiftly. I have yet to come across any proprietary treatment that works, so I made my own that does. All that aside - excellent instructional video LSA - as per usual. Practical, to the point & real-world stuff.
My "last" comment would be, when done, drown the whole repair in epoxy 2k primer - if you don't, it will rust again in no time. I have found no substitute for epoxy 2k primer. Every other form of primer is a waste of time & energy. It will rust again in jig time. Plus, use flux-core. Flux core works better for bodywork. It just does.
I ran into that same exact thing on my crown Victoria dog leg repair Ford puts this rubbery foam in there to just hold moisture I have no idea why they did that.
If a panel can drain a stay dry on the inside, there won't be any issues like this. Especially if you can squirt a dose of oil inside the panel to coat those pinch welds. Like this - th-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/w-d-xo.html
Does no one supply decent rust protection coatings ? Over in the UK cars dont seem to rust like they used to, although one brand of pick up truck rotted out its chassis rails in a few years, the company bought them all back and cut them in half then sent them for scrap ,yet a few garages, old school made jigs and repaired the chassis frames and made them stronger
Great work on fabrication of that rusted section of bedside. Will you be doing the other rusted spots as well. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the work done and the finished product.
It's lap welded - here's that video th-cam.com/video/Jk29avqnVXI/w-d-xo.html Here's a vid comparing lap and butt - th-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/w-d-xo.html The welder was gas - here's a vid on the exact welder - th-cam.com/video/jZikIeH-SWQ/w-d-xo.html
This is great stuff. In your other videos - you are very right about lapping patches instead of butt joints - especially for amateurs like me. On the body filler - my bondo starts to set in less than 2 minutes - before I can really get it how I like it. What products or tips do you suggest to get time for spreading?
Use less and less hardener until you get it to harden when you want. After a while you'll be able to hurry the hardening or slow it down depending on your needs. That's it. Oh... when it's hot out, it's going to harden fast --- cold = slow :)
@mattwarrensocal - is lap joints better than butt joins? Isn't a lap joint a prime spot for moisture to penetrate (and thus be a moisture- trap) and promote the same rust issues?
Yes - the two are pinched together and welded. You would drill a 1/4" to 3/8" hole in the wheel well lip , pinch the two layers together and weld (plug welds). If this don't make sense ask again :)
@ makes sense. That’ll be some work lol. I’m using 18 gauge for patch panels on the 09 ram because that’s the thickness of the formed arch patch panels I received. Do you recommend 20? I have a boatload of 18, a couple full sheets actually. I should be able to blend the 18 with filler just fine correct?
I did this on my pickup but it was worse so i built a wheelhouse out of 16 gauge and then I finished with parts of a hood. It took me a very long time and I'm wondering how long did you spend on this project?
Generally a patch like this takes about 4 hours. If you started at 8am you should have the thing in primer before lunch. Go to lunch, come back and block sand it. That's how it went working in a body shop many times. Feather fill and lacquer primer with both dry nicely while your at lunch about an hour @ 70 degrees
Hi Jerry, Friday comes around, and so do your videos :) Looks awesome. What gauge of metal are you using? Is it a special metal? I've heard of satin coated, whats so special about it. Wonder if you could or have a video, about the sheet metal requirements? Have a great weekend. You definitely earned it!
It's 20 gauge (.030") nothing special - CR sheet I think A1008 from Alro Steel in Grayling, MI. I'll write that down - good idea for a video my friend. You have a good weekend too 😊
satin or also galvanneal are a subtype of galvanized steel that has a...satin appearance among other characteristics. zinc-aluminium-other components coating over steel to sacrifice itself(galvanic corrosion) first before the iron. These coatings don't like heat from welding (arc or flame will burn the zinc alloy) , which is why automakers who use a lot more of it prescribe MIG Brazing, adhesive spot welding and adhesives. Ultra High Tensile Strength Steels also don't like heat from welding.
@@rolfbjorn9937does it give off poison gases when you weld, like normal galvanised steel ? Our chaps used to grind it back to bare metal in the weld area, and wear a mask and use forced ventilation
Wow, that was quite a rusty box side. I had one of those trucks in the past, I did not know there was a piece of foam at the top of the arch. Great repair Jerry, maybe you will keep going on that truck ?
Have you got any videos recommending how to handle rusted out windshield frames? My 2000 Mustang has some amount of rust beneath the windshield (havent removed it yet, is an absolute hassle, but used a 9 gauge guitar string to remove the windshield on my subaru just fine, havent tried it yet on the Mustang), and on my Subaru, in the wall that goes from the windshield flange up to the roof, theres an area where it has rusted all the way through. Having watched a lot of your vids over the last couple years, I feel like I can piece together a solution, just wasnt sure if there was a more definitive solution.
You can absolutely fix all of that - had a Ranger that rusted through the windshield and down the fire wall. The metal cowl (grille) had to be cut out, the repair done and painted inside the air duct/ cowl area, then the grille part welded back in and mudded up. It took some time but it can be fixed. You can do it how ever you can do it - it that makes sense :)
Hey Jerry what do you think about primer sealer over fill primer I saw a can of automotive primer sealer and it said to spray over last primer coat before painting 🤷♂️
Sealer can be very helpful. Some guys like to use it some don't. It get everything one color, seal the body work, help with covering any very small imperfections, prime any tiny bare metal spots that were missed. :)
I have one right now and I'm sure the body will last a very long time but one thing to remember is that the underbody, frame, fuel lines, brake lines, brackets, mounts, etc. are all steel and will rust so.... They are collision repairable :)
great job, hope you know they do make inner and outer patch panels for them trucks around 50 bucks a piece well worth saving time in making your own especially the inner.
20 gauge A1008 CR Sheet from Alro Steel - other metal sales places carry it too :) You can also use 22 gauge or scrap panels - hoods, deck lids, etc :)
Looks like this truck could be a whole mini-series ! I looked a ford truck since it had great towing capacity, but like this one, the wheel arches were rusting out again and the frame had two holes in it, wasn't even 10 years old and we have salt, but not like Michigan or Upstate NY.
MAN !!!!!! WHER ARE YOU LOCATED!!!! I have all my trucks go 250k miles,sell them n watch them go another 150k’s !! All Chevys !! I had Fords ! Surface rust,Brakes at 60k so I backed away ! GREAT VIDEOS !!
Thanks Terry. I'm in upper Michigan but I just flip cars and trucks. Rust bucket trucks and clean title repairable vehicles. Glad you enjoyed the video my friend :)
They cut pretty thick stuff - I commonly cut 20 gauge (.035") and 22 gauge (.030") It'll gut thicker too - It's from HF so I think the specs are on the site :)
They don't sell that one anymore but Harbor Freight does sell this now - www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/metal-shears/5-amp-14-gauge-metal-shears-64609.html
Thanks for doing these and showing the actual work being done in real time..
You're welcome Edward - have a good weekend :)
Good JOB....👌🏻👌🏻
You think he did this in 20 minutes?
I'm so old I can remember when we had actual body shops in this country
Yep - I think rust repair was common back then. Not now though :(
The magic hands of an expert with years of experience. This is a genius at work.
Thanks for the kind words Bruce :)
Hey Jerry, I really enjoy and appreciate you sharing your skills. Saving another Michigan rust bucket. Looking forward to part two. Thanks.
Thanks for the kind words Paul - glad you enjoyed it 😊
These videos are brilliant. I'm rebuilding my Dodge Dakota. Got all the mechanical stuff done, now it's time to rebuild the body. I got a box from the dump that's in better shape than mine, but it still needs wheel arches and rockers, and at least one cab corner. I have all the new patch panels. Just need to learn to weld first, ha ha. These videos give me hope.
You can do this my friend - just ask a bunch of ?s - any time. I get to them 1-2 times a day :)
rebuilding my Dakota
You are the master Jerry - of body work...and film making! SO helpful, thank you!
Thanks CA - I appreciate your support - always good to hear from you my friend :)
Rust repair...something I get stuck with quite a lot. So good to see another video on the subject👍
I appreciate your + comments all the time BBG - have a nice weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobodyI know nothing but I do have a question just seen different tuber show me for first time a flange tool. Would you consider using a overlay versus a butt splice for the old to new sheet metal.
@@JohnnyAtlas You can used a flange tool if you prefer but in a high volume body shop there's really no time to mess with it. Cut the rust out, cut a patch, weld, knock it down, fill. That's it - every time - every hole. You can't always use the flange tool - wheel well lips, rockers, sharp bodylines and corners, around tail lights.... so the thinking is why use it anywhere - if a simple lap joint works. Here's a good video that can clear things up a bit - th-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody you are a great teacher thanks for the link totally understand why now.
@@JohnnyAtlas You're welcome - glad it helped. Thanks for the kind words :)
Nice to see you do a rust repair after a while jerry. Look forward to part 2
Thanks SS - glad you enjoy them. Have a good weekend :)
Amazing work , a true craftsman. Thank you for sharing your secrets to us DIY folks who like to do things for ourselves
Glad you enjoyed it ODD - thanks for watching :)
Thank you. I followed your videos exclusively to repair a corner of the passenger door on my 2008 Highlander. Now it’ll pass inspection here in Pa. 😊
Awesome - love to hear things like that :)
Awesome job! It’s nice to see someone still patchin’ em up.
Not too much of that going on in shops today for sure :)
Got over 350K miles out of my old 1990 Bonneville before rust did it in. Cool to see rust fixed now and then. Wish I had done that with mine in the past before it got too bad.
Good video, I keep singing in my head "love hurts" watching it
I sure enjoy watching a real Pro work. I've gained an incredible amount of knowledge from watching your videos. So much so that I tackled my son's rust bucket '02 Sierra project and it actually came out ok! It's a Michigan truck and the rust was rusted. I can't thank you enough for creating and posting these videos! 💯💪🤙
Thanks Doug - I love hearing stories like that - awesome 👍 Each job you do, you get better so... If that looked decent just think how they'll look down the road. Keep me posted on future projects my friend 😊
@Lakeside Autobody , also curious what gauge sheet metal you used on this repair? Thx!
@@dwreed63 20 gauge (~.035") You can use 22 gauge too (~.030")
@Lakeside Autobody , I think I had to use 18 ga on the truck, it was what ALRO steel had available at the time. It was a bit stiff 🤓
Thank you for the response
@@dwreed63 You can rest easy knowing it'll last longer 😊
Man those side cut plyers are Awesome 😃
Great job fitting your own patch in. You make it look simple. I better start saving my Wheaties Boxes
Thanks RG - always good to hear your + comments :)
Nicely done Bud!!☻
Thanks RK - have a nice weekend :)
We use to make our own patches all the time. The patch panels you buy are so expensive now and don't fit anyway. Good tin smithing
👍✌😊
Awesome work. I bet you never thought this many people would want to watch you do bodywork. :) But we do!
I appreciate you kind comments all the time DIO - have a good weekend my friend :)
I have watched several of your videos and though I’m experienced doing rust repair in my home garage on my projects, especially on trucks, I still pick up new ideas and techniques from you. Also like some of your dent removal techniques. One thing I started doing after watching your videos is using a cheese grader. I’ll keep watching and learning!
The cheese grater can really make a difference in speed and getting the dent straight. Thanks for watching Randy - enjoy the rest of the week :)
That was very good job man , please make more videos like those
I'll keep them coming CL - have a good weekend :)
Great video. Enjoyable watch.
Thanks C636 - enjoy the rest of the week :)
i recently realized this may save me thousands...thank you!
You're welcome my friend - enjoy the weekend :)
This customer really loves his truck
now that's a craftsmen a lost art , I enjoyed this very much sir respect for your talent .
Thanks Old Biker - what's your favorite road bike?
@@LakesideAutobody it was a 1994 Harley heritage my son rides it now , my other son rides my 1999 standard bat wing , both bikes have 130 k miles on them I don't ride any more legs' are to week and I'm 70 years old , but I still restore cars and trucks. thanks for asking.
@@oldbiker9739 I love to hear peoples stories. Thanks for sharing ✌
Happy to come across this video today - 1) b/c just picked up an older reasonable millage Dodge ram with similar rust issues and 2) a few weeks ago my new arccaptain Mig 200 arrived and I haven't even started playing with it. Nice coincidence that you are using the same and showed your settings so I know where to start.
Feel free to ask any questions as you go - have a great weekend Chris :)
Great video! A lot to learn here
Excellent video! Looks like all too familiar Michigan rust. Take care, looking forward to more.
Thanks 👍. Have a good weekend William 👍😊
Jerry I had to watch this again I enjoyed it so much. Question, are we going to see the finished F-150 project? Finish paint, etc. I bet it looks like new. Take care.
Yes - I'm doing it for a friend in between collision jobs. It should look pretty nice - you take care too Mike 😊
A get it done kind of guy! Im going to use your techniques when repairing rust on my 84 ford bronco, i have to use patch panels in the rear quarters because they no longer produce the entire quarter panel. Thanks for the videos!!
You're welcome my friend - have a great weekend 👍⚾😊
Big Jerry got some of the best body work training videos on youtube . From a Pro Tech🙏🙏💪💪💪
Thanks AEW1 - that's nice to hear coming from someone who works in the field. I really appreciate the support 👍😊
I’m going to try teaching myself how to do so extensive rust repair on an old minivan. I’ll probably end up buying some premade pieces but some will be freehand. Thanks for posting these vids and giving us a reference to turn to in a jam.
That's great to hear. Ask ?s if needed. Thanks for watching and you're welcome 👍😊🏈
I never think it was possible to weld next to a gaz tank. I always remove it. You are more brave than I.
I've seen a lot of welding near explosives in body shops I've worked in - surprisingly never even a fire. Guys smoked cigarettes while spraying primer, cut off bumpers with a tank next to it, etc. How about muffler shops - they have to be doing this all the time 😊
Thank you Jerry for another great how to step by step vidio. Take care.
You take care too Mike - nice to hear from you as always :)
Holy crap. That's some serious skill brother 😊. Great job and thanks for the video.
Thanks TJ - have a good weekend :)
Another great video Jerry. I hope you and your family are doing well.
Hi Bluesman - thanks for checking in - good to hear from you my friend. If you're ever back this way stop in whenever :)
Just when I think I can't learn anything more from you-
-you go ahead and educate me more and more and more I learn and just get dumbfounded amazed with slackjaw. 😮
Glad to hear it MD - that kind of stuff is motivating. I appreciate the kind words my friend - have a good weekend :)
Awesome work, you are a Artist with sheet metal. Enjoyed this very much and learned alot too.
Thanks for the kind words MJAC - have a nice weekend :)
great video, helped me out a lot with my rust bucket haha
👍😊
Greetings from Connecticut! Great job, Jerry!
Interesting... How's Connecticut? Never been there. Thanks for watching Joseph :)
@@LakesideAutobody Well, the winter has been unusually mild, so I’m certainly happy about that!
Enjoy your channel. Hope you’re doing well!
@@jumpinjojo 👍🛠😊
Great job Jerry, you almost make it look easy. I love these metal working videos.
Have a great weekend
Thanks Bruce - you too. I appreciate you comments :)
That's a great job! I look forward to watching the finish video. Thanks for sharing
I will finish it too - just got to get back to it. Been busy with other jobs lately :)
Awesome work as per usual
Thanks JRM - have a good week :)
Thanks for the video Jerry. Saving another rust-bucket one patch at a time! Randy
Yes - thanks for watching Randy :)
This is an amazing video!!!!! Truly skilled and thanks for sharing your experience
I appreciate the kind words my friend - enjoy the week :)
Wow, you're an exceptional welder. And wow, that's some amazing body repair.
Thanks Charles - I appreciate the support :)
So, my truck is doing the same thing living in salt-road Ohio. But I can't do that kind of metal work. Haven't quite figured out what to do yet. Not sure if it's inappropriate for me to ask about how much (roughly) it costs to have a body technician do a job like that.
But either way, that's some really good work.
@@charlesbarr3561 Thanks Charles. Odds are you probably won't find anyone to do it. They'd probably suggest a new bed or box side at least. A box side is probably around $700 so I'm thinkin' a ballpark estimate might be $2000 to have someone replace the box side. Depends a lot on the individual shop. It's very expensive today because of cost of paint, materials, labor, etc. Hope that helps a bit :)
@@LakesideAutobody that's exactly what I was thinking. I don't think any of the body shops I know would pick up a job like that. I should probably start looking for a bed side, the bed itself has been discontinued for a while. I appreciate the honest response. Can't wait to watch the next video. 👍
You sure do nice work. And you are a good teacher
Thanks Mike - have a good weekend my friend :)
Great job Jerry this is my favorite metal work
Much appreciated Louis - have a great weekend :)
Great video Jerry. Thank you. AL
Very welcome Al - have a good weekend :)
Great video Jerry you're a metal magician!
Thank UPK - hope you're catching up on all the work you had over there a while back :)
@@LakesideAutobody it’s rough Jerry but I’m catching up, this weather is trying to get nice and I want to enjoy it this year!
@@UndergroundPaintKing Got to take time to enjoy it for sure :)
@@LakesideAutobody yes sir I agree!
I Like your videos you do the same Type of work as my Late Brother did he made Bench shears from 1/2 inch steel 18inch Long
It made the process so much easier
They was great for 1/8 sheets keep up the good work ps am from the UK 🇬🇧 AGE 62
Thanks Christopher :)
Great tutorial, keep up the good work!!!
Thanks Mr J - thanks for checking it out :)
I love your videos!! You take the intimidation out of body work. You're like the Da Vinci of body work!!
😊 thanks - I appreciate your kindness.
Great Video, looking forward to part II. Rust never sleeps in your part of the world.
You're right Irish G - good to hear from you my friend. Have a good weekend :)
Simple and effective, excellent 👍
Thanks! 👍 HKR
Hi thank you for sharing your knowledge fixing rusty cars llike a real hard worker man,excellent job,appreciate it.God Bless 🙏👍👌
Thanks for the kind words Hector - God Bless you too my friend 😊✌
Mazdas got to be the top 3 for rust
Yes....
👀 beginning was scary 🔨
All these quarter-panel/arch/inner arch issues come from above - seals that leak around the screens/boots/etc etc & let water down inside the panels. Always. Keep an eye on your seals.. Stuff like this I no longer bother making up panels - I toddle along to a scrapyard & chop a better section out of one of their vehicles, weld that better section onto the car I am repairing. Cut your "donor" panel good & big - trim it to fit when you get home.
Just glancing at the chassis, that vehicle is toast anyway unless the entire chassis gets a treatment pretty swiftly. I have yet to come across any proprietary treatment that works, so I made my own that does. All that aside - excellent instructional video LSA - as per usual. Practical, to the point & real-world stuff.
My "last" comment would be, when done, drown the whole repair in epoxy 2k primer - if you don't, it will rust again in no time. I have found no substitute for epoxy 2k primer. Every other form of primer is a waste of time & energy. It will rust again in jig time. Plus, use flux-core. Flux core works better for bodywork. It just does.
Thanks for your input James - have a great week 🛠👍😊
I ran into that same exact thing on my crown Victoria dog leg repair Ford puts this rubbery foam in there to just hold moisture I have no idea why they did that.
If a panel can drain a stay dry on the inside, there won't be any issues like this. Especially if you can squirt a dose of oil inside the panel to coat those pinch welds. Like this - th-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/w-d-xo.html
Hey anyone know how much something like this costs? I could really use
They should have taken it to Rusty Jones Rust proofing or something like it, when it was new.
Does no one supply decent rust protection coatings ?
Over in the UK cars dont seem to rust like they used to, although one brand of pick up truck rotted out its chassis rails in a few years, the company bought them all back and cut them in half then sent them for scrap ,yet a few garages, old school made jigs and repaired the chassis frames and made them stronger
There's not a lot of good choices for rust protection. Some plug the drain holes - some wear off, some don't coat everything, etc.
As always, your work is amazing.
Thanks Coolcat - I appreciate that. Have a great week :)
I learn so much from youre videos thank you !!
You're welcome LP - enjoy the week :)
Could the welding be done with a stick welder?
This might answer your ?s on that - th-cam.com/video/JhQaWZ80eAw/w-d-xo.html I've been thinking of doing a video on your idea actually :)
They’re all worth saving. Have you seen the price of new and used vehicles?
Im new to the channel i have an o8 chrysler 300 awd with bad rusting ,i really wanna save it ,thanks for your videos
You're welcome - feel free to ask ?s - get to them every day :)
Great work on fabrication of that rusted section of bedside. Will you be doing the other rusted spots as well. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the work done and the finished product.
I will be finishing it up. I'm doing this for a guy in between collision jobs :)
Thanks for the class lol can you tell me what kind of metal sheet you use for the job not clue on what to use thanks in advance
20 or 22 gauge CR A1008 Sheet Metal. You can get this stuff from most metal supply places like Alro Steel. 20 gauge is ~ .035" -- 22 gauge is ~ .030"
@@LakesideAutobody thank very much trying to do my own lol
@@victorbeltran5304 Cool - let me know if you have any more ?s :)
Did you lap weld that panel on or butt weld? Also is that a mig with gas? Or is it flux?
It's lap welded - here's that video th-cam.com/video/Jk29avqnVXI/w-d-xo.html Here's a vid comparing lap and butt - th-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/w-d-xo.html The welder was gas - here's a vid on the exact welder - th-cam.com/video/jZikIeH-SWQ/w-d-xo.html
This is great stuff. In your other videos - you are very right about lapping patches instead of butt joints - especially for amateurs like me. On the body filler - my bondo starts to set in less than 2 minutes - before I can really get it how I like it. What products or tips do you suggest to get time for spreading?
Use less and less hardener until you get it to harden when you want. After a while you'll be able to hurry the hardening or slow it down depending on your needs. That's it. Oh... when it's hot out, it's going to harden fast --- cold = slow :)
@mattwarrensocal - is lap joints better than butt joins? Isn't a lap joint a prime spot for moisture to penetrate (and thus be a moisture- trap) and promote the same rust issues?
Is the inner panel welded to the patch panel? If so, how?
Yes - the two are pinched together and welded. You would drill a 1/4" to 3/8" hole in the wheel well lip , pinch the two layers together and weld (plug welds). If this don't make sense ask again :)
@ makes sense. That’ll be some work lol. I’m using 18 gauge for patch panels on the 09 ram because that’s the thickness of the formed arch patch panels I received. Do you recommend 20? I have a boatload of 18, a couple full sheets actually. I should be able to blend the 18 with filler just fine correct?
@ the inner panel will probably be a bang up job and not perfect but will add support to the outer panel, so that’s the most important thing
I did this on my pickup but it was worse so i built a wheelhouse out of 16 gauge and then I finished with parts of a hood. It took me a very long time and I'm wondering how long did you spend on this project?
Generally a patch like this takes about 4 hours. If you started at 8am you should have the thing in primer before lunch. Go to lunch, come back and block sand it. That's how it went working in a body shop many times. Feather fill and lacquer primer with both dry nicely while your at lunch about an hour @ 70 degrees
Hi Jerry, Friday comes around, and so do your videos :) Looks awesome. What gauge of metal are you using? Is it a special metal? I've heard of satin coated, whats so special about it. Wonder if you could or have a video, about the sheet metal requirements? Have a great weekend. You definitely earned it!
It's 20 gauge (.030") nothing special - CR sheet I think A1008 from Alro Steel in Grayling, MI. I'll write that down - good idea for a video my friend. You have a good weekend too 😊
satin or also galvanneal are a subtype of galvanized steel that has a...satin appearance among other characteristics. zinc-aluminium-other components coating over steel to sacrifice itself(galvanic corrosion) first before the iron.
These coatings don't like heat from welding (arc or flame will burn the zinc alloy) , which is why automakers who use a lot more of it prescribe MIG Brazing, adhesive spot welding and adhesives. Ultra High Tensile Strength Steels also don't like heat from welding.
@@rolfbjorn9937 Thanks for the information and your input Rolf B - where you an engineer?
@@rolfbjorn9937does it give off poison gases when you weld, like normal galvanised steel ?
Our chaps used to grind it back to bare metal in the weld area, and wear a mask and use forced ventilation
Wow, that was quite a rusty box side. I had one of those trucks in the past, I did not know there was a piece of foam at the top of the arch.
Great repair Jerry, maybe you will keep going on that truck ?
Yes PSG - I'm going to keep going till she's all done. It's a friends truck that I do in between other work :)
@@LakesideAutobody awesome !!
Other great job. Keep up the good work and have a great weekend
Thanks Brad - appreciate it 😊
How do you know what gauge of metal to use when doing a repair like this?
You can use 20 or 22 gauge on everything. Thicker if you want but it will be harder to work with. This gauge will last just fine :)
Have you got any videos recommending how to handle rusted out windshield frames? My 2000 Mustang has some amount of rust beneath the windshield (havent removed it yet, is an absolute hassle, but used a 9 gauge guitar string to remove the windshield on my subaru just fine, havent tried it yet on the Mustang), and on my Subaru, in the wall that goes from the windshield flange up to the roof, theres an area where it has rusted all the way through. Having watched a lot of your vids over the last couple years, I feel like I can piece together a solution, just wasnt sure if there was a more definitive solution.
You can absolutely fix all of that - had a Ranger that rusted through the windshield and down the fire wall. The metal cowl (grille) had to be cut out, the repair done and painted inside the air duct/ cowl area, then the grille part welded back in and mudded up. It took some time but it can be fixed. You can do it how ever you can do it - it that makes sense :)
Hey Jerry what do you think about primer sealer over fill primer I saw a can of automotive primer sealer and it said to spray over last primer coat before painting 🤷♂️
Sealer can be very helpful. Some guys like to use it some don't. It get everything one color, seal the body work, help with covering any very small imperfections, prime any tiny bare metal spots that were missed. :)
@@LakesideAutobody I think I’ll try it hopefully it won’t rain Saturday 😁
@@sheerwillsurvival2064 👍
What’s the tool used to cut the new panel shape? Thanks!
I used a few tools but they're listed in the video description. Might be the metal shears from Harbor Freight.
You are a Craftsman ,sir!
Thanks Greg - have a good week my friend :)
how long will the ford f 150 aluminum body last? are they collision repairable? thanks!
I have one right now and I'm sure the body will last a very long time but one thing to remember is that the underbody, frame, fuel lines, brake lines, brackets, mounts, etc. are all steel and will rust so.... They are collision repairable :)
@@LakesideAutobody how old is your ford? it would be great if you would do a review of how the aluminum body and paint on aluminum is holding up.
great job, hope you know they do make inner and outer patch panels for them trucks around 50 bucks a piece well worth saving time in making your own especially the inner.
Yes - thanks for the information. Have a good weekend my friend :)
Would a complete bedside be a better route to go with that much rust? Where do you draw the line on something like this?
Money draws the line. The cheapest route is homemade patch, then patch panels then bedside then whole bed :)
Great video man🤘🤘
Thanks James 🛠👍✌
Hi, what guage of sheet metal are you using? Thanks.
20 gauge A1008 CR Sheet from Alro Steel - other metal sales places carry it too :) You can also use 22 gauge or scrap panels - hoods, deck lids, etc :)
Awesome work, sir.
Thanks and thanks for watching :)
Looks like this truck could be a whole mini-series ! I looked a ford truck since it had great towing capacity, but like this one, the wheel arches were rusting out again and the frame had two holes in it, wasn't even 10 years old and we have salt, but not like Michigan or Upstate NY.
👍😊
Your a BEAST, GOD BLESS your talent
Thanks Antonio - glad you liked the video :)
What gauge sheet metal do you use for your patch panels? Thank You for the great video.
22 or 20 - 22 ~ .030" & 20 ~ .035" Both hold up well over time and can be worked with easily :)
MAN !!!!!!
WHER ARE YOU LOCATED!!!! I have all my trucks go 250k miles,sell them n watch them go another 150k’s !!
All Chevys !!
I had Fords ! Surface rust,Brakes at 60k so I backed away !
GREAT VIDEOS !!
Thanks Terry. I'm in upper Michigan but I just flip cars and trucks. Rust bucket trucks and clean title repairable vehicles. Glad you enjoyed the video my friend :)
Rain ex the wiper blades too
Good job
Thanks :)
What gauge steel do you use for these fabrications?
20 or 22 - .035" or .030"
What gauge of metal do you typically use?
20 gauge (.035") - 22 works fine too (.030")
Thank's very help full.Good Job.
You're welcome Mike :)
You are a true genius and great metal sculptor, and you can work on my vehicle anytime!
Thanks for the support Ben - I appreciate the comment. Happy New Year 🎉😊
Another great video, thanks! What gauge sheet metal is that? Those sheers cut it like its 22ga or smaller.
They cut pretty thick stuff - I commonly cut 20 gauge (.035") and 22 gauge (.030") It'll gut thicker too - It's from HF so I think the specs are on the site :)
What is the tool you used to cut the sheet ive never seen one?
They don't sell that one anymore but Harbor Freight does sell this now - www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/metal-shears/5-amp-14-gauge-metal-shears-64609.html
@@LakesideAutobody thank you
👍@@samwhite1345