Great video. Had my 8th gen for several years and since I bought it with 100k miles it would always grind into second quick shifting then sometimes into reverse. Had many people tell me it was internal issue in the transmission and some said clutch problem or linkage issue. Well it progressively got worse over the years getting very hard to shit at times into any gear. Well yesterday I started the car clutch down in 1st gear and it lunged forward a bit and was really difficult to pull out of gear. So I got to thinking that seems like a cmc problem. So the first forum that I started reading a thread on this video was linked in the description. I removed the small panel under the dash and dove in on my back and its uncomfortable and tight but i adjusted exactly as this video describes and the car shifts better than when I bought it 60k miles ago. It really drives like a brand new car now, I really appreciate the clear instruction this video offered and highly recommended anyone having any of the issues I mentioned earlier to do this because this is most likely the issue with your car.
9 years later and this video absolutely saved me. For the past 6 months, my 9th gen Si began grinding randomly when shifting in 2nd or reverse gear so I had to start skipping 2nd gear when driving and going from 1st to 3rd. Honda tried to tell me the transmission needed to be replaced and I did not have $10k they wanted to do that. Saw this video randomly the other night and this little adjustment has completely erased the issue. Absolute legend. Forever grateful for people like you 🙏
This video saved me from buying a transmission, 2nd was grinding so was 3rd after the transmission got hot I couldn’t get into any gear and when I did I got stuck in gear , I bought k tuned shift cables, synchros, changed transmission fluid also got a new cmc. Thank god I didn’t install any at the time I watched this vid …I did what the vid said and low and behold problem fixed after various shops insisted to buy a new transmission
Man!!!!!! Your video saved my ass!! Replaced the CMC and wasn't sure why I still was locked out of gear.. whether it was more bleeding or adjusting the pedal.. Didn't even realize I could just loosen the jam nut and spin the cmc rod.. thought I was gonna have to take that clevis pin out and remove the bracket bolts to spin the cmc rod with the end on it. Got the rod threaded out some and now I can shift again, hallelujah 🙌 Also my pedal bracket was broken and I had to weld it. Fun stuff man.
Dude thank you so much! I got an 8th gen Si after driving an automatic for the past 10 years and thought I just got bad at driving manual. This changed everything.
Works on EP3 and DC5 as well for anyone wondering. 14mm on the switch nut and 12mm on the push rod. Just back the nut off all the way and you can use that to turn the rod in. Do it exactly like he says in the video! Thank you so much for making this and keeping it up. I got here from your forum post and the grinds/lockouts were driving me insane. Another tip for anyone is to "flush" and replace your clutch fluid as well. You can crack the bleeder on the slave and let it drip, slowly add fluid to the reservoir without letting air get in. Keep adding until the fluid at the slave starts coming out clear. Easy method for anyone doing this alone but may have to do it regularly to flush everything out.
I have a dc5 and I replaced the stock cmc with a ktuned one which does not have the fluid restrictor on the cmc. Question is, do I adjust it like how you would on the stock cmc? 2 thread showing on the clutch switch?
Excellent informative video for us Honda folks. Helped my 1st gear pedal gap....I was prone to random stalling after installing a Sirimoto CMC which assumingly changed my gap towards the engine bay and I had to give more threads to the yellow plug to touch in my situation...now what I did with the aftermarket CMC was mimic an OEM adjustment on a 2013 si...but that specific yellow plug need more threads to touch my peddle....perfectly, notchy, Acuity and Sirimoto settings.
Great guide and explanation. I was on an aftermarket OS Giken STR single plate clutch and stock CMC on my 09 civic Fd2R I adjusted my clutch pedal higher leaving about 2-3 threads. As for the cmc adjustment, if you have difficulty turning the rod after you have loosen the nut, press down on the clutch pedal and turn the rod until it touches and tightens very slightly (make sure the rod is not loose) . All done and now bring your car and rip it thru the gears for a test
I went as far as replacing my Master and Slave myself and was a bit pissed when it didn't fix the problem until I seen this video. Shifts like as if I'm cutting into butter. Thank you!!
Thank you! Thank you! I have a 2008 Civic Si and I have had trouble shifting, especially first and second gear. Sometimes I had to pump the clutch two or three times to be able to get into first. But after adjusting the clutch it shifts like butter. It has only been one day with the new adjustment and it is almost flawless, I hope my clutch stays this way. Once again thank you!
Did this yesterday, two days before my scheduled EM1 CMC install. For now it worked. Fast shifts from 1->2 at high rpm were possible on my 2 tries. Excellent tip !!
Had my 2013 Si since I bought it at the end of 2012. 1st to 2nd shifts at high revs have always been a problem, but not now. I just hit THREE 1st to 2nd shifts in a row at high revs. Engagement point for clutch was very near the floor from the dealership, now it's somewhere in the middle of the travel. And I can fine tune it easily later. Keep in mind if you are making this adjustment, it could be because of a wearing clutch.
Just want to say I recently adjusted this on my 8th gen si (FA5) and so far, it has worked for me... I was having issues shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 at 8k+ rpms, and my reverse was also grinding. After doing this adjustment, I am no longer grinding in reverse and fast shifting above 8k.... thanks!!!
Update At the end of the day, my clutch completely went out... would not advise on this... adjusted this on my OEM cmc and worked good until end of the day...
@@sickassrsxs about to do this on my 09 FA5. your comment scared me for a second. how did you break the clutch pedal assembly? any lessons learned that i should avoid? i'm also having 1-2 8k rpm lockout and reverse grinds unless i put it into first first.
@@Visw what's up man! The clutch pedal assembly was on it's way out before I ever did the adjustment. I just never realized it.... it had nothing to do with the adjustment I made. Till this day, I still have no grinds going in reverse or banging gears above 8k, especially 1-2. I thought I needed a new CMC but I was wrong.
@@Visw These clutch pedal brackets were made super flimsy and crack. When you step on the clutch if the bracket is cracked the whole clutch pedal assembly pulls from the firewall causing you to lose all the throw/travel in your clutch pedal. This is how I scored my 06 Honda Civic SI for $500 no one could figure out what the car wouldn’t shift.
Bought a 2008 Civic Si Coupe and had problems when the transmission got hot and made it nearly impossible to stick it in first or reverse and I followed the video instructions and it actually worked. Luckily this glitch has not been patched yet.
Had a new clutch and flywheel installed and shifting just didn't feel right no matter what I did. I made these adjustments, and what a difference it made. It feels like I'm driving an automatic now. Thanks bro
I never thought this would help my 08 civic si (fa5) I replaced my cmc and slave but gears would still stick unpredictably I even watched this along time ago but after looking for how much thread was exposed and it looked fine so left it. You have to take the switch out in let the CMC extend fully then connect it in see where it's at put it back together and the difference was unbelievable it's like butter feels like a new car and it has stayed this way so far thank you very very much super useful and helpful video. Kudos to you for taking the time to make a video of this. Subbed
Thanks for the video! I was having problems shifting into all gears above 4k RPM's after installing a new CMC and after this video the car shifts like butter into all gears from redline.
Just performed this operation on my 2011 FA5. Changed the entire character of the clutch engagement. It's much smoother and less squirrely now between every gear, especially 1-2nd. Went to 8300 several times in a row and it didn't miss a beat every time. Great free fix.
Great video man. My clutch was being very notchy and hard to get in gears sometimes. Just a couple turns on the pedal bolt you first described, tightened it, then a little turn on the CMC, and the gears are so much smoother now. Thanks for the good video and how-to.
almanu04 lol bro. I tried everything. First I did anti clockwise and rounded the nut a little bit. Then I figured out it was clockwise on this one so tried that but didn’t workout. Then tried taking the cotter pin out and took the black pin out just to try it. Now I can’t even get the black pin all the way in 😫
Thank you so much. I bought the car and it was hard to go in gear and I had to force it to go in first gear and it would grind sometimes. This fix my problem. Thanks again 😊
Hey Eman! This just saved me. I have a 2011 FG2 and was ready to pull the trigger on a new CMC. The original one was clicking and making other noises. I also could not shift into 2nd when accelerating hard. All my noises are gone and I can shift into 2nd at 8000+ rpm Now! Feels like new! Also I did not really notice my clutch engaging in a different spot. Thanks so much!
Thank you helped my problem! I made sure to check the slave up front to make sure i was able to depress it making sure it wont put pressure on my Clutch.
did exactly that and that fix my second gear not going in at high rpm and my third gear grind. thanks for taking the time to make this video ☺☺☺☺👍👍👍👊👊👊✌✌
Hi excellent video. I'm desperate to eliminate my low pedal. Some say to adjust the pedal that leaving about half to 3 quarters of thread showing at the first adjustment stage. What is best, 2 threads as you say or less?. Also others say when you have pulled out the rod all the way to the pedal stop that you should back away the rod from the plate half a turn. Can I get your thoughts on what is the right way of should it not cause too much concern. Thx
My exact thought. 2 threads is common while Other videos did say and do that 1/2 cmc rod turn back off. Which adjustment worked for you? btw is yours an SI, mine is LX coupe not an SI. Hope your still croooooozin.
Thank you so much for this video! You seriously just saved me so much money, I was ready to swap the clutch but this fixed it! For anyone else reading, I was having trouble shifting into first and reverse from a stop, and second when moving. Other gears had a bit more resistance than normal. This was a super easy fix. Liked, subbed, etc. With there was more I could do for you man!
Thank you so much! Had just installed a stage 3 clutch in my 2013 V6 Accord and after having several mechanics adjust it, i still couldnt drive my car. It wouldnt go into gear unless the car was off. I was afraid it was a trans or synchro issue, or even a failed CMC. You are a life saver, thanks for taking the time to make this video and explain the process.
This guy sold it to me For this same issue he had put a lot of stuff into it like a clutch fly wheel and a lot more i found this video i did it and completely fixed it lol
I did this adjustment z and now when releasing the pedal,the clutch engagement is very high in the pedal stroke. It makes me worry it may not be being fully engaged. Any advice on where to go from here?
Sure enough helped a ton with the second gear lockout and grinds. 3rd and 5th feel much smoother too. My “bite” is way higher in the clutch pedal now though, before it started to bite almost instantly. other than that feels like my problems are solved (for now). Should I adjust it back a bit or is that fine?
do you have new cmc or same stock one? had the same problem but my stock cmc just went bad after a while and go a nissin cmc. now i have the same issue again.
my third felt notchy, second felt fine. I did the cruise control adjuster first. then second would lock out at 8k. then I did the cmc rod. felt mint! next day, clutch slips. I adjusted the rod less. no sliping but grind into second. I backed the rod off a little all well again. today it slipped again. wtf should I do?
Is it possible when doing this to adjust the engagement up too much to the point where the clutch is disengaging without being pressed, im about to do mine but wanna make sure i dont go too hard and end up cooking my clutch
This is great! I just made the adjustment after owning the car for 3yrs. My problems were 2nd gear high rpm lock out, and also difficulty/notchiness of gears due to clutch not being fully engaged. I would suggest using a small short adjustable wrench to do the 12mm and 17mm, so that you can move them around easily in the tight footwell. Thanks k20z3allmotorFTW! Now my question here is - does the clutch pedal require some sort of reinforcing? How would one go about doing so?
Duddee!!! This is the video I been looking for 100% explained and answered my questions! And also worked sooo fcking nice ! My shit pulls nice! On stage 2 cc !
Just made the adjustments. around my neighborhood shifting from 1st,2nd,3rd and 4th (easy driving... under 30 mph) the shifts feel smoother. It feels like the clutch is now grabbing higher... like 80% off the floor. no slipping so I guess its ok. ill try a 8k shift 1st to 2nd tonight on my way home.
couldnt wait... just did a 1,2,3 gear pull. hard shifting at redline. shifted smooth and barked the tires in 2nd and 3rd. the lockout seems fixed. the engagement is more like 65-70% off the floor. its perfect, for now.
I have a grinding issues on my 96 honda accord ex 2.2 when i shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear it does a grinding noise just when i shif it has a brand new clutch kit any one here i have success fixing it please share your success thanks
man thankyou so much..my 1st gear sometimes have a hardtime to put in..and 2nd have lockout on high rpm..but now every gear shifts like theres a lot butter in there.lol..i can even shift easily on 8k rpm now.
Take a quarter or 50 cent piece, throw it in the diaphragm an use the chemical resistant JB weld an fill it. Now u can power shift with no grinds. That diaphragm is there to slow the fluid down. Now it will be straight threw. You're welcome or pay $200 for a hybrid racing one that shifts identical.
Hybrid racing informs you that's you specifically need to change the rod to the stock one so you won't have any problems reason being the em1 rod is longer then the fa one which gives you adjustment issues
Ok so the 2 mins of the video when you were talking about the em1 cmc rod. Could that be the reason why my em1 slave and my throwout bearing and pressure plate took a dump on me?
I've owned my 09 civic si since brand new. This was going to be my weekend project, but when i got down there, the cylinder threads were already positioned in your final position!!! 🤔🤔
Hey Eman! This question is for a different topic: my clutch pedal seems to make a clicking noise whenever I push it down. I've been told to spray some grease on the push rod, but heard that's not a long-term solution. Do you have any ideas on a solution?
I ended up putting the rod on the cmc to a shorter position and then adjusted my pedal stopper to where it hit. Also my cmc rod did not spin, only the actual bracket where the rod connected to spun
Stupid question but I assume this will work on 7th gens? Just replaced my clutch master and slave cylinders and am wondering if my pedal/rod us adjusted properly since it won't go in gear.
Marvin it’s annoying. Don’t know what to do. If you figure it out. Please let me know. For some reason I also pulled out the black pin which connects the pedal to the cmc and now can’t get that all the way in.
Are you sure that's the cruise control switch? On a Honda OEM part store, it shows that it's on the gas pedal. The switches for clutch says their a neutral safety switch and a cut off switch. I need to know which one it is because mine broke. Please help thanks
Question, could I also just disconnect my battery terminals to avoid having to unplug anything? I’m finding it alil difficult to get to the plug due to the wiring harness but I know it’s doable.. just was wondering if disconnecting the battery would be the same thing?
Mine is completely adjusted as you showed, about 2 threads exposed of the cruise control switch. I still get grinds on high RPMs and when it's cold (mostly) some gears are hard to engage, even at low RPMs. Do you recommend getting the EM1 for this case or getting a new OEM replacement? 8th gen (FA5)
I am having trouble the pin(which connects the pedal to the cmc) back all the way in. Any suggestion? I took it out because I am not able to crank the cmc rod nut. But now I can't even get the pin in
So I was having trouble with 1st,2nd locking out an shifting in higher rpm an tried this out. Seams to have worked pretty well all gears seam go in 100% smoother then we're it was at prior. My only question is the engagement point seams be alot higher is that normal?? An was just wondering how has it held up for thoughs that have had it done for awhile. Like does it burn your clutch out faster was what I wondering I guess??
So i recently installed the em1 from HybridRacing on my 8th gen Si with the new line and i also installed new stage 3 clutch kit from Competition Clutch and i can't seem to get any Engagement adjustments right. No matter if i screw clockwise or counter clockwise the Engagement is always very very high where i have to almost let my foot off the pedal for the car to move and idky. I used the oem rod like HybridRacing recommends. What can i do to make it work properly??
I just did this to my 07 si. The shifting is way better, but my clutch pedal is harder now. I'm really worried i am damaging the clutch or cmc. should I adjust it back?
Great video. Had my 8th gen for several years and since I bought it with 100k miles it would always grind into second quick shifting then sometimes into reverse. Had many people tell me it was internal issue in the transmission and some said clutch problem or linkage issue. Well it progressively got worse over the years getting very hard to shit at times into any gear. Well yesterday I started the car clutch down in 1st gear and it lunged forward a bit and was really difficult to pull out of gear. So I got to thinking that seems like a cmc problem. So the first forum that I started reading a thread on this video was linked in the description. I removed the small panel under the dash and dove in on my back and its uncomfortable and tight but i adjusted exactly as this video describes and the car shifts better than when I bought it 60k miles ago. It really drives like a brand new car now, I really appreciate the clear instruction this video offered and highly recommended anyone having any of the issues I mentioned earlier to do this because this is most likely the issue with your car.
9 years later and this video absolutely saved me. For the past 6 months, my 9th gen Si began grinding randomly when shifting in 2nd or reverse gear so I had to start skipping 2nd gear when driving and going from 1st to 3rd. Honda tried to tell me the transmission needed to be replaced and I did not have $10k they wanted to do that. Saw this video randomly the other night and this little adjustment has completely erased the issue. Absolute legend. Forever grateful for people like you 🙏
This video saved me from buying a transmission, 2nd was grinding so was 3rd after the transmission got hot I couldn’t get into any gear and when I did I got stuck in gear , I bought k tuned shift cables, synchros, changed transmission fluid also got a new cmc. Thank god I didn’t install any at the time I watched this vid …I did what the vid said and low and behold problem fixed after various shops insisted to buy a new transmission
How is it holding up now?
I'm going to try this on the weekend because 2nd gear is grinding so bad I'm skipping it and going right to 3rd.
Man!!!!!! Your video saved my ass!!
Replaced the CMC and wasn't sure why I still was locked out of gear.. whether it was more bleeding or adjusting the pedal..
Didn't even realize I could just loosen the jam nut and spin the cmc rod.. thought I was gonna have to take that clevis pin out and remove the bracket bolts to spin the cmc rod with the end on it.
Got the rod threaded out some and now I can shift again, hallelujah 🙌
Also my pedal bracket was broken and I had to weld it. Fun stuff man.
Dude thank you so much! I got an 8th gen Si after driving an automatic for the past 10 years and thought I just got bad at driving manual. This changed everything.
does it really help? my 07 civic si seems to always grind in reverse and when launching it is almost guaranteed to grind in 2nd or not go in at all
Works on EP3 and DC5 as well for anyone wondering. 14mm on the switch nut and 12mm on the push rod. Just back the nut off all the way and you can use that to turn the rod in. Do it exactly like he says in the video!
Thank you so much for making this and keeping it up. I got here from your forum post and the grinds/lockouts were driving me insane.
Another tip for anyone is to "flush" and replace your clutch fluid as well. You can crack the bleeder on the slave and let it drip, slowly add fluid to the reservoir without letting air get in. Keep adding until the fluid at the slave starts coming out clear. Easy method for anyone doing this alone but may have to do it regularly to flush everything out.
I have a dc5 and I replaced the stock cmc with a ktuned one which does not have the fluid restrictor on the cmc. Question is, do I adjust it like how you would on the stock cmc? 2 thread showing on the clutch switch?
Excellent informative video for us Honda folks. Helped my 1st gear pedal gap....I was prone to random stalling after installing a Sirimoto CMC which assumingly changed my gap towards the engine bay and I had to give more threads to the yellow plug to touch in my situation...now what I did with the aftermarket CMC was mimic an OEM adjustment on a 2013 si...but that specific yellow plug need more threads to touch my peddle....perfectly, notchy, Acuity and Sirimoto settings.
Great guide and explanation.
I was on an aftermarket OS Giken STR single plate clutch and stock CMC on my 09 civic Fd2R
I adjusted my clutch pedal higher leaving about 2-3 threads.
As for the cmc adjustment, if you have difficulty turning the rod after you have loosen the nut,
press down on the clutch pedal and turn the rod until it touches and tightens very slightly (make sure the rod is not loose) .
All done and now bring your car and rip it thru the gears for a test
I went as far as replacing my Master and Slave myself and was a bit pissed when it didn't fix the problem until I seen this video. Shifts like as if I'm cutting into butter. Thank you!!
did you get a new cmc or not. i went through the same problem lol
Thank you! Thank you! I have a 2008 Civic Si and I have had trouble shifting, especially first and second gear. Sometimes I had to pump the clutch two or three times to be able to get into first. But after adjusting the clutch it shifts like butter. It has only been one day with the new adjustment and it is almost flawless, I hope my clutch stays this way. Once again thank you!
when you did yours, did you have play on the pedal? we’re supposed to make the rod stiff right?
Fixed 2nd gear grind and lockouts at high rpms. Every gear change is firm now tysm!!!!
Did this yesterday, two days before my scheduled EM1 CMC install.
For now it worked. Fast shifts from 1->2 at high rpm were possible on my 2 tries.
Excellent tip !!
Any issues since?
supras7 Shift smooth as brand new.
+Marbin Diaz +roca0626 did you do both adjustments? Or just the one cmc not the pedal?
what a beautiful change this made to everything. i had the worst reverse grind going into it everytime and its completely gone.
Had my 2013 Si since I bought it at the end of 2012.
1st to 2nd shifts at high revs have always been a problem, but not now. I just hit THREE 1st to 2nd shifts in a row at high revs.
Engagement point for clutch was very near the floor from the dealership, now it's somewhere in the middle of the travel.
And I can fine tune it easily later.
Keep in mind if you are making this adjustment, it could be because of a wearing clutch.
Excellent idea to show the pieces outside of the car so people could understand better
Just want to say I recently adjusted this on my 8th gen si (FA5) and so far, it has worked for me... I was having issues shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 at 8k+ rpms, and my reverse was also grinding. After doing this adjustment, I am no longer grinding in reverse and fast shifting above 8k.... thanks!!!
Update
At the end of the day, my clutch completely went out... would not advise on this... adjusted this on my OEM cmc and worked good until end of the day...
Another update... turns out I broke the clutch pedal assembly. Did not mess up the clutch or CMC.
@@sickassrsxs about to do this on my 09 FA5. your comment scared me for a second. how did you break the clutch pedal assembly? any lessons learned that i should avoid? i'm also having 1-2 8k rpm lockout and reverse grinds unless i put it into first first.
@@Visw what's up man! The clutch pedal assembly was on it's way out before I ever did the adjustment. I just never realized it.... it had nothing to do with the adjustment I made. Till this day, I still have no grinds going in reverse or banging gears above 8k, especially 1-2. I thought I needed a new CMC but I was wrong.
@@Visw These clutch pedal brackets were made super flimsy and crack. When you step on the clutch if the bracket is cracked the whole clutch pedal assembly pulls from the firewall causing you to lose all the throw/travel in your clutch pedal. This is how I scored my 06 Honda Civic SI for $500 no one could figure out what the car wouldn’t shift.
Bought a 2008 Civic Si Coupe and had problems when the transmission got hot and made it nearly impossible to stick it in first or reverse and I followed the video instructions and it actually worked. Luckily this glitch has not been patched yet.
Had a new clutch and flywheel installed and shifting just didn't feel right no matter what I did. I made these adjustments, and what a difference it made. It feels like I'm driving an automatic now. Thanks bro
i3ak3ri301 did your clutch slip at all after you did this?
2nd time using this tutorial (different cars); great angles and explanations. Hopefully test drive tomorrow goes well!
I never thought this would help my 08 civic si (fa5) I replaced my cmc and slave but gears would still stick unpredictably I even watched this along time ago but after looking for how much thread was exposed and it looked fine so left it. You have to take the switch out in let the CMC extend fully then connect it in see where it's at put it back together and the difference was unbelievable it's like butter feels like a new car and it has stayed this way so far thank you very very much super useful and helpful video. Kudos to you for taking the time to make a video of this. Subbed
Best information on the entire internet. Twist of fate is it is out of focus and camera is all over the place lol.
Thanks for the video! I was having problems shifting into all gears above 4k RPM's after installing a new CMC and after this video the car shifts like butter into all gears from redline.
Just performed this operation on my 2011 FA5. Changed the entire character of the clutch engagement. It's much smoother and less squirrely now between every gear, especially 1-2nd. Went to 8300 several times in a row and it didn't miss a beat every time. Great free fix.
Logλn L how did you crack that 12mm nut? Having problems doing that
Great video man. My clutch was being very notchy and hard to get in gears sometimes. Just a couple turns on the pedal bolt you first described, tightened it, then a little turn on the CMC, and the gears are so much smoother now. Thanks for the good video and how-to.
bless up, this video is still helping people in 2020.
Yooo thanks for showing this man. I just finish adjusting mine, the gears feel much better now !
May the Honda gods look down on you with great favor, my friend! Just did the quick adjustment & she shifts like butter! love it bro. FTW!!!
Check in 2020. Helped me out today. Thank you!
do you have any mods on your car?
@@WelshyAutomotive stock
One of the best video about CMC ! Thanks man i recently bought an FG2 and will probably apply your advice
Thanks, my type r shifts smoother and no more grind on 2nd gear. I was so close of trading the car in until i saw this clip.
@almanau04 How did you guys crank the 12mm nut for the cmc rod. Having difficulty doing that.
@@MrTaswafrulz lefty loosy, righty tighty
almanu04 lol bro. I tried everything. First I did anti clockwise and rounded the nut a little bit. Then I figured out it was clockwise on this one so tried that but didn’t workout. Then tried taking the cotter pin out and took the black pin out just to try it. Now I can’t even get the black pin all the way in 😫
Thank you so much. I bought the car and it was hard to go in gear and I had to force it to go in first gear and it would grind sometimes. This fix my problem. Thanks again 😊
Just wanted to say thanks, your video helped me adjust the cmc correctly on my 09 civic si.
The best explanation after watching 1000 videos
Hey Eman! This just saved me. I have a 2011 FG2 and was ready to pull the trigger on a new CMC. The original one was clicking and making other noises. I also could not shift into 2nd when accelerating hard. All my noises are gone and I can shift into 2nd at 8000+ rpm
Now! Feels like new! Also I did not really notice my clutch engaging in a different spot. Thanks so much!
Works great! Shifts like butter in my 07 si
“You’ll Feel it contact” feel it contact WHAT ?
Hell yea, this fixed my high-rpm 1st-2nd shift lockout issue. Thanks for the vid
Fawk ya
late comment but this sucks so bad, tryna fix it now
*Mines 4-6th Worth A Shot Trying To See If This Is The Issue*
Thank you helped my problem! I made sure to check the slave up front to make sure i was able to depress it making sure it wont put pressure on my Clutch.
did exactly that and that fix my second gear not going in at high rpm and my third gear grind. thanks for taking the time to make this video ☺☺☺☺👍👍👍👊👊👊✌✌
Hi excellent video. I'm desperate to eliminate my low pedal. Some say to adjust the pedal that leaving about half to 3 quarters of thread showing at the first adjustment stage. What is best, 2 threads as you say or less?. Also others say when you have pulled out the rod all the way to the pedal stop that you should back away the rod from the plate half a turn. Can I get your thoughts on what is the right way of should it not cause too much concern. Thx
My exact thought. 2 threads is common while Other videos did say and do that 1/2 cmc rod turn back off. Which adjustment worked for you? btw is yours an SI, mine is LX coupe not an SI. Hope your still croooooozin.
Thank you so much for this video! You seriously just saved me so much money, I was ready to swap the clutch but this fixed it!
For anyone else reading, I was having trouble shifting into first and reverse from a stop, and second when moving. Other gears had a bit more resistance than normal.
This was a super easy fix. Liked, subbed, etc. With there was more I could do for you man!
Thank you so much! Had just installed a stage 3 clutch in my 2013 V6 Accord and after having several mechanics adjust it, i still couldnt drive my car. It wouldnt go into gear unless the car was off. I was afraid it was a trans or synchro issue, or even a failed CMC. You are a life saver, thanks for taking the time to make this video and explain the process.
How did you guys crank the 12mm nut for the cmc rod. Having difficulty doing that.
taswaf rahman You may need to push the pedal in a bit just to relieve tension
Collin Waters I did. When I move the pedal a little the pin goes in a little. But at one point it gets stuck. Doesn’t go all the way in
Not the CMC, but for the SMC - do you think a CDV delete is beneficial or should it be left stock?
Thank you for making this video and sharing it. What a difference in pedal feel!!
How did you guys crank the 12mm nut for the cmc rod. Having difficulty doing that.
I'm going to try this tomorrow. Thanks for the vid
I did both adjustments and this helped so much! Thanks
Great video, thanks
This guy sold it to me
For this same issue he had put a lot of stuff into it like a clutch fly wheel and a lot more i found this video i did it and completely fixed it lol
I did this adjustment z and now when releasing the pedal,the clutch engagement is very high in the pedal stroke. It makes me worry it may not be being fully engaged. Any advice on where to go from here?
Sure enough helped a ton with the second gear lockout and grinds. 3rd and 5th feel much smoother too. My “bite” is way higher in the clutch pedal now though, before it started to bite almost instantly. other than that feels like my problems are solved (for now). Should I adjust it back a bit or is that fine?
can i do the rod adjustment inside the car?
Any idea why the car shudders whenever I put it into first ? This happened after I installed Acuity Bushings
I can now truly enjoy my Civic and You saved me money. Thanks a lot!!
Any issues since?
+supras7 Nope! Still works flawlessly!
+roca0626 did you do both adjustments? Or just the one cmc not the pedal?
Thanks bro worked perfect fixed my grind at high rpm in 2nd gear and made shifting a 1,000 times better 07 si fa5 ...
do you have new cmc or same stock one? had the same problem but my stock cmc just went bad after a while and go a nissin cmc. now i have the same issue again.
Man, thanks for that video, still helped me today!!
my third felt notchy, second felt fine. I did the cruise control adjuster first. then second would lock out at 8k. then I did the cmc rod. felt mint! next day, clutch slips. I adjusted the rod less. no sliping but grind into second. I backed the rod off a little all well again. today it slipped again. wtf should I do?
Is it possible when doing this to adjust the engagement up too much to the point where the clutch is disengaging without being pressed, im about to do mine but wanna make sure i dont go too hard and end up cooking my clutch
Night and day difference. Much appreciated
would this cause air to get into the system bu any chance?
This is great! I just made the adjustment after owning the car for 3yrs. My problems were 2nd gear high rpm lock out, and also difficulty/notchiness of gears due to clutch not being fully engaged. I would suggest using a small short adjustable wrench to do the 12mm and 17mm, so that you can move them around easily in the tight footwell. Thanks k20z3allmotorFTW!
Now my question here is - does the clutch pedal require some sort of reinforcing? How would one go about doing so?
MDP clutch pedal brace 😊
Duddee!!! This is the video I been looking for 100% explained and answered my questions! And also worked sooo fcking nice ! My shit pulls nice! On stage 2 cc !
Just made the adjustments. around my neighborhood shifting from 1st,2nd,3rd and 4th (easy driving... under 30 mph) the shifts feel smoother.
It feels like the clutch is now grabbing higher... like 80% off the floor. no slipping so I guess its ok. ill try a 8k shift 1st to 2nd tonight on my way home.
couldnt wait... just did a 1,2,3 gear pull. hard shifting at redline. shifted smooth and barked the tires in 2nd and 3rd. the lockout seems fixed. the engagement is more like 65-70% off the floor. its perfect, for now.
Thank you so much. This worked for me
thank you man this was well done and my car runs fine now
Ima try this on my 8th gen and RSX thanks
hey thanks for the info on this best shifts I've ever had really works
I have a grinding issues on my 96 honda accord ex 2.2 when i shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear it does a grinding noise just when i shif it has a brand new clutch kit any one here i have success fixing it please share your success thanks
man thankyou so much..my 1st gear sometimes have a hardtime to put in..and 2nd have lockout on high rpm..but now every gear shifts like theres a lot butter in there.lol..i can even shift easily on 8k rpm now.
Take a quarter or 50 cent piece, throw it in the diaphragm an use the chemical resistant JB weld an fill it. Now u can power shift with no grinds. That diaphragm is there to slow the fluid down. Now it will be straight threw. You're welcome or pay $200 for a hybrid racing one that shifts identical.
Old video but daymn!!!!! I didnt know this was e-man filming! The one with the 330whp all motor civic!
Hybrid racing informs you that's you specifically need to change the rod to the stock one so you won't have any problems reason being the em1 rod is longer then the fa one which gives you adjustment issues
I’d advise against adjusting all the way tight like this, it’s a good way to waste your thrust washers on the crankshaft 😪
sugarfree1985 thats my only concern too! So I left a little free play.
@@Raiders51fitty Yeah good idea to spin the rod back counter clockwise a little after hitting some resistance. Honda recommends 10-18mm of freeplay
Ok so the 2 mins of the video when you were talking about the em1 cmc rod. Could that be the reason why my em1 slave and my throwout bearing and pressure plate took a dump on me?
i just did this adjustment on my 9th gen si and the clutch feels very spongey and grabs very very high on the pedal travel now.
Acolis this is for the 8th gen, not for 9th looks up how to adjust it for 9th, your causing wear on your car now.
Perfectly understand, thank you so much 👌
I've owned my 09 civic si since brand new. This was going to be my weekend project, but when i got down there, the cylinder threads were already positioned in your final position!!! 🤔🤔
I will try this when I get home. just replaced my CMC and my clutch has no play whatsoever. It engages even when I put my feet on the pedal.
I mean when I just rest my feet on the pedal
Bro I did this the throw on the pedal was huge and the clutch engaged at the very top... it felt like doodoo
This works for the 9th gens? The layout looks the same.
I just did it on my 2014
Hey Eman! This question is for a different topic: my clutch pedal seems to make a clicking noise whenever I push it down. I've been told to spray some grease on the push rod, but heard that's not a long-term solution. Do you have any ideas on a solution?
I had that problem and it turned out to be a plastic bushing that broke and ended up getting new ones at Honda for a couple dollars
Worked like a charm. My pedal doesn't even click anymore. Thanks Eman. Was this a Honda TSB by any chance?
I ended up putting the rod on the cmc to a shorter position and then adjusted my pedal stopper to where it hit. Also my cmc rod did not spin, only the actual bracket where the rod connected to spun
My rod doesnt spin either. So after loosening the nut you spin the thing at the end of the rod that connects to the pedal?
Stupid question but I assume this will work on 7th gens? Just replaced my clutch master and slave cylinders and am wondering if my pedal/rod us adjusted properly since it won't go in gear.
I did what you said now I’m going to test it to see if work I’m exited to power shift to 2nd to see if this time doesn’t grind
How did you guys crank the 12mm nut for the cmc rod. Having difficulty doing that.
taswaf rahman same
Marvin it’s annoying. Don’t know what to do. If you figure it out. Please let me know.
For some reason I also pulled out the black pin which connects the pedal to the cmc and now can’t get that all the way in.
my knuckles are FUCKED up
Are you sure that's the cruise control switch? On a Honda OEM part store, it shows that it's on the gas pedal. The switches for clutch says their a neutral safety switch and a cut off switch. I need to know which one it is because mine broke. Please help thanks
i have a question doe, does this make the clutch pedal much higher and a longer travel?
Reggie H It can
+Reggie H Mine feels like it had a shorter travel. Definitely a little higher though.
So, this adjustment applies to any type of clutch?
Question, could I also just disconnect my battery terminals to avoid having to unplug anything? I’m finding it alil difficult to get to the plug due to the wiring harness but I know it’s doable.. just was wondering if disconnecting the battery would be the same thing?
Mine is completely adjusted as you showed, about 2 threads exposed of the cruise control switch. I still get grinds on high RPMs and when it's cold (mostly) some gears are hard to engage, even at low RPMs. Do you recommend getting the EM1 for this case or getting a new OEM replacement? 8th gen (FA5)
I'm also wondering
I am having trouble the pin(which connects the pedal to the cmc) back all the way in. Any suggestion? I took it out because I am not able to crank the cmc rod nut. But now I can't even get the pin in
So I was having trouble with 1st,2nd locking out an shifting in higher rpm an tried this out. Seams to have worked pretty well all gears seam go in 100% smoother then we're it was at prior. My only question is the engagement point seams be alot higher is that normal?? An was just wondering how has it held up for thoughs that have had it done for awhile. Like does it burn your clutch out faster was what I wondering I guess??
So i recently installed the em1 from HybridRacing on my 8th gen Si with the new line and i also installed new stage 3 clutch kit from Competition Clutch and i can't seem to get any Engagement adjustments right. No matter if i screw clockwise or counter clockwise the Engagement is always very very high where i have to almost let my foot off the pedal for the car to move and idky. I used the oem rod like HybridRacing recommends. What can i do to make it work properly??
If I do this will it wear my clutch out faster?? Plus Wouldn't you shift slower cause of the longer range of motion?
Would you recommend sticking with the OEM slave cylinder or changing to another one like a K-Tuned?
Get a ktuned or em2 slave.
I just did this to my 07 si. The shifting is way better, but my clutch pedal is harder now. I'm really worried i am damaging the clutch or cmc. should I adjust it back?
Will this help lower a high biting point? I wanna set it to the middle at least but as of rn it’s so high up to the point of being annoying to drive
would this get rid of any clicking noises comming from a cold start from the master cylinder?
Hey E-Man, I already installed the Hybrid Racing CMC but using the OEM bracket. How should it be properly adjusted? Thanks
What is considered an updated stock CMC? Are they different? I have a 2011 civic si.