Humble Mechanic did a video on this like a year or 2 ago. Easiest thing to do is... 1. get a bunch of small zip ties 2. tape them to a small dowel that you and put in a cordless drill 3. remove intake manifold 4. with valves closed, flood the port with brake clean and let it sit for like 5 min 5. With your mcgyver'd brush in a drill, and run it in the port. 6. soak up/remove the dirty brake clean with a rag 7. repeat with the other ports (with turning the crank by hand to make sure the ports being cleaned are closed)
My 1st 4 cars were Alfa Romeos. If you didn't thrash them @ least once a week they would start running like crap, probably because of their appetite for the oil. So maybe an 'Italian tune up' was only a neccessary for Italian cars? But maybe not. Decades ago my boss had a Mercedes. He asked me to take it to the dealer because it had no power. On the way I gave it a thorough thrashing. At first it was definitely sick, but as I neared the dealership it was going much better, so I turned around and thrashed it all the way back. When I got back I gave him the keys and told him it was fixed. After his puzzled look I told him that he should not not always drive like grandpa.
@@gregculverwell This method is called "freiblasen" in german and actually used to be the common practice for removing carbon buildup in engines. Just drive to a long enoutgh highway section with no speed limit and absolutely floor the pedal for 20-30 minutes.
@@CodewortSchinken freiblasen sounds like a blast it clean? I did that with the 1st Alfa I was bought from the my uncle's neighbour. She sold it's to me for the next to nothing because the engine had a bad rattled and no power. I though it was knew the reasons. She only used it to go to the locals shops a few km away. The rattle was a loose timing's chain and arrived with a 14mm spanner in my pocket, which is alleged you needed to adjust it. Then on the Friday night I set out to visit family and out on the farm. Once I got out of on a deserted single lane and put my foot down, redlining in every gear At first it wouldn't getting past 120 kph, but it slowly improved. When it reached 160 I noticed a red globe behind men an a big cloud of sparks. Its though it is had caught fire & stopped. But there was nothing. I was very puzzled and started out again. The flakes & sparks reappeared, but now I knew it was was all the carbon being burnt out. After the about 10 minutes it stopped and the car was going very well.
I bought a used VW FSI 2.0T that was seriously clogged. I removed the intake, removed a lot of the carbon using soft aluminum 'chisels' about the size of a flat screwdriver, being careful to ensure the valves were closed so nothing could drop in the cylinder. Then I used a small tube attached to a vacuum to suck out the loose stuff. Then I squirted Castrol Purple cleaning fluid into the head intakes and agitated it around using an old nylon toothbrush and sucked it out a again. I repeated this for each intake throat until they and the valve heads were completely clean. It took an afternoon to clean all eight intake valve throats so they looked like new. Castrol purple is awesome! I have installed a catch can system to the PCV manifold. The car runs great now. Total cost, including the catch can. plumbing and PCV manifold mods was less than $80 and well worth it. I have yet to meet anyone that has actually achieved anything except clouds of smoke out the exhaust using these various chemical concoctions before paying a mechanic to take the manifold off and physically remove the coke. Don't waste you money. Take the time and do it yourself.
Pretty much what I did on my 1.9 diesel which are known to cake carbon though I used different product. I used oven cleaner, carb cleaner, water, a pick set, wet dry shop vac, and an air compressor air gun. You just have to be careful, you have to rotate the engine and make sure the valve you're working on is closed then scrape the heavy caked carbon with the picks and vacuum it out. The spray the oven cleaner in and wait for a bit, then spray water in and finally blow out with the air gun, final cleaning is with the carb cleaner to remove any residue. Rinse and repeat on each one until its clean. It got the intake area impressively clean.
He is right. This is literally the only thing that works. You can use other cleaners and high grade solvents as well, but the process is fairly easy and the only way to do it.
The spray-in intake valve cleaners are intended for maintenance purposes, every 5k or 10k depending on your vehicle or how you drive. It's not for cleaning out years of caked on carbon build-up on the intake valves as your used car purchase.
Should have seen the amount of smoke that came out of my car. I literally put a cloud down the whole street. It actually stopped traffic . It helped my gdi engine alot. When I put seafoam in it , the bottle says to hold the rpms around 1500-2000 when adding through the intake. And like he said make sure your not spraying the mass airflow sensor . Would highly recommend seafoam .
The best summary of realistic alternatives to carbon buildup I have seen. I am hoping the combination of having a Gen 3 VW, Top Tier fuel, high quality oil and mostly highway driving will reduce the probability of problems.
I have a very simple vacuum operated water injector I built with some basic fittings that I use on a GDI Kia. While I haven’t visually inspected the intake valves, it has been running progressively better the longer the devise is in use. I also think that in addition to cleaning intake valves, it is important to clean the injector nozzles as well, I believe that they get carbon deposits on them in the combustion chamber and these deposits disturb the shape of the spray pattern. This water injection system is in my opinion the very best way to decarbon everything in the combustion chamber, perhaps most importantly the injector nozzles. I’m not a fan of GDi engines, I understand the benefits, but I think they come at too high of a price to be worth it in the long run. Give me the old port injection any day.
The simple fix some manufacturers are using is having a second set of injectors at the port. It's supposed to be used during performance demands and keeps the intake valves clean. Hopefully more manufactures will adopt this method.
There is one true fix, Ford calls it dual-fuel, Toyota calls it D-4S, even VW has already implemented their solution in other markets. Multiport fuel injection, add some good old port injection to a direct injected engine to keep those intake valves clean. This is the reason I traded my 2015 F150 for a 2018. Thankfully the aftermarket has come to the rescue with kits available. I'll take a good look at the options once my water pump goes and I have to pull the intake manifold.
Did not see the vid but i know what worx - egr/carb cleaner sprayed directly in the intake (through throttle), the stuff that went out of the exhaust 😲😲😲 EDIT: though the guy who sprayed it sprayed too little, 500ml can and there's still more than 2/3rds in there
Almost seems like it would be beneficial to run a can of the spray before removing the manifold to help loosen the deposited carbon before jumping into a manual cleaning. Thank you for the new obtained knowledge!
Hello, EA211 TSI owner here. If feels like you dumped the stuff into the cold engine, considering how the engine rattles. High temperatures speedup such chemical reactions - try cleaning carbon buildup on a hot electric kitchen stove vs cold, you'll see how easier hot one is dissolving. :) So the overall result would probably be better when the engine was fully warmed up. Thanks for the video, I have 55k miles on my engine, should try this in the future.
My son and I just settled into the fact that periodic cleaning of carbon build up is just part of owning and Maintaining the GTI. Not so much a bummer any more. We set our self up with the Walnut Blaster, Intake Gaskets, Injector Reseal Kits and fresh Spark Plugs. Tasty Beverage and a few hours....Done.
Excellent video ☝️ Catch-Can fan here 👍. I installed mine on my brand new Honda Ridgeline 3.5-liter V-6 right at 900 miles on the odometer. I’m a Mobil1 user and do my oil changes at 3K miles. First oil change coming up in 500 miles, we’ll see how much condensed stuff is collected… Thanks for the info !
I agree. The biggest benefit of DI fuel systems is to the auto manufacturer, to meet ever-increasing fuel economy standards. Even a 1-mpg improvement can make a difference to a carmaker - while adding hundreds of dollars in maintenance costs (i.e., media-blasting) to the car's owner, negating fuel cost savings.
GDI engines are actually a no brainer. That is currently the most efficient fuel delivery method. Compare 2.0 engines of today to decades ago; almost double the HP and better efficiency. Take into account today's fuel has been diluted not just with ethanol but a bunch of additives (try evaporating gasoline and see what percentage of additives are left. Add to that all of the emission controls vehicles have and you can see how much more efficient engines are today. How you ask? Direct injection is one piece of the puzzle. The other is fuel delivery PSI. Manufacturers will just keep increasing the fuel pressure to keep the marketing scheme going.
Stratified makes a great little throttle body(sort of) injection system. It is $900.00, but you don't need to mess with a meth injection system( although there is a port for meth as well).
I've been using the exact same intake manifold method with the Liqui Moly Valve Cleaner on my wife's 1.6T Hyundai engine. I perform that procedure annually and do not see the typical white smoke from the exhaust that is so prominent for e.g. Sea Foam. I'm very pleased with the results, I do compare the before and after with a borescope camera. Yes yes I know the Valve cleaner is a fuel additive, but in the the direct injection engine it would not be sprayed over the vales so it needs a bit of help :) Not endorsing anything, just sharing my experience. Perform at your own risk.
So I have a big question for you how many miles on that Tucson ? Also did you have to take off the intake manifold to inspect the valves I have a 2020 Tucson aswell new and I run a catch can but would like to inspect the valves someday without having to remove the intake manifold like I had to on our 2016 Tucson. All I gotta say manually cleaning the valves sucked bad lol your back is going to hurt lol.
@@henrytom5824 Around 30k on the first cleaning. I'm not removing the intake manifold, just the pressure/temp sensor from the intake manifold (two screws only). I use a borescopes camera to inspect the valves before and after through the sensor hole. It's tricky but doable. For the cleaning itself, I just peel the sensor a bit and spray small doses of the valve cleaner with a small syringe.
Toyota has a wonderful system that combines port and direct injection systems on several of its engines. Not only does it get rid of the problem you're talking about; Port Injection works better at idle and lower speeds. And there are conditions where both systems are used simultaneously for better efficiency
@@Buddahknife I do not believe that is true. I believe it is used generally at lower RPM; and sometimes simultaneously with direct injection. I'm sure Toyota has all this figured out as to the advantages of doing it that way
It would have been nice if they put inspection ports on the intake ports. This way you not have to remove the entire intake to inspect and easier address the problem.
Pull the intake manifold and spray Mr Muscle oven cleaner in the two ports where the valves are closed, leave for 1 hour and then use wire brush to remove all the carbon crud. The valves will come up shiney and new. Rotate the engine so the other valves are closed and repeat. Mr Muscle £8 a can and a couple of hours of your time.
Chevy Sonic 2012, 1.8L 186,000 miles, high LDL cholesterol, blown head gasket. Currently pulled the head and was wondering why there are particles in my intake. Now I know. Now I have some cleaning to do. Intake valves are relatively surprisingly clean but exhaust valves and exhaust facing guides have carbon buildup. Another set of cleaning to do. Thanks for posting this video
I love how you say science says it just doesn't work and there is papers proving it, even though I saw others do it and also did it myself, and it worked
Yeah ive seen a few videos where guys use an inspection camera show gunked up valves, use crc and then show the valves again and there is a good 70-80% reduction in the build up.
I feel like spraying it in on a completely cold engine (so it doesn’t evaporate as fast)for a few second, allowing it to soak into the carbon for a while with the engine off, then spray the rest of the bottle as the engine warms up, might give it the best chance if rinsing the valve and port
Berryman 0996-ARM B-9 Chem Dip Parts Cleaner This stuff works to get rid of carbon buildup like nothing else and it doesn't cause any damage like some decreasers would. I haven't tried this but not doubt would work; injecting the stuff into the valve port while it's closed and let it sit for a couple days.
Absolute fantastic video I own a couple of cars including a Volkswagen and what's interesting is for my Chevy everything looks pristine even with high mileage since I've gotten the vehicle I used a combination of one cup seafoam and 1/4 cup water mixed through a vacuum line while the engine is at operating temperature and it has cleaned fantastically doing this once a year but the Volkswagen you have to be way more careful what you put in it! By the way if you do my method make sure you do it really slowly
Great video - informative and entertaining. I was hoping to see you do a walnut shell service - to see how that worked. I will check out your other videos for that though. Thanks for posting this.
Anybody that has done a manual cleaning on a DI engine will know there's no way product you spray into the intake is gonna do anything significant. DiagnoseDan did a similar test with a "powerful" product they only sell to shops, and same thing--very small amount of removal. No such thing as mechanic-in-a-bottle/can.
Yea well I wonder if a water injection system would help. I ran a homemade one on my tdi for years, and also routed the pcv somewhere else. When I tore it down after 60k or so, the ports had nada buildup and the pistons and combustion chambers didn't look like a diesel. It had black on it but not any thick carbon at all. You'd get a dirty finger if you ran it down a port wall but it was clean as a whistle. My setup blew right in the turbo as I had no intercooler on that setup, so that's easy. With an intercooler it could puddle up and cause issues , at that point it's better to pressurize it and inject after the intercooler.
They work if you use them before the carbon gets so bad it requires manual cleaning. Using intake cleaner prior to every oil change and your valves will be spotless.
@@GlennC789 When I did this on a GM 3.0 V6 (100k miles, had never been cleaned - it was bad), I pulled the intake and turned the engine over by hand til the valves I wanted to work on were closed, then used a set of long picks to break the bulk of the softer crud off. If you use steel picks, be careful not to score up the valves. Then I used a shop vac to suck as much of that crud out as I could. Then, I sprayed some CRC GDI Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner directly onto the valve stems until the little pocket they sit in in the head was full, and they were submerged in the stuff, and let it soak for a bit. Then I uses several sizes of long handled copper and nylon "bottle brushes" that I bought at Harbor Freight to scrub off the rest of the crap, then blotted it all up with shop towels. Don't suck it out with a vacuum, I imagine it would explode! After I'd gotten the stems and back of the valves pretty well cleaned up, I turned the engine to open the valves and scrubbed the mating surfaces between the seat and valve the best I could with a thin but stiff nylon brush. Then I moved on to the next cylinder. All in all, I think it took me a solid 6-7 hours (like I said, they were in bad shape). Now, the CRC cleaner is meant to be sprayed into the intake with the engine running, like the product shown in this video. I did use it that way after the manual cleaning, but it would never have gotten through the buildup without some manual action on the valves, as bad as they were. But I do believe the stuff is legitimate for routine maintenance, and would probably prevent the buildup from ever getting that bad to begin with. Here is a video about the stuff I used (I have no affiliation with them at all, I'm just a shadetree mechanic): th-cam.com/video/RcVDZAauO88/w-d-xo.html
Avoid short trips, change your oil slightly more frequently than vw specifies and use the best quality fuel available...prevention is better than the cure
@@doctorwarpspeed8779 I am concerned more about my home Earth than a stupid car engine. Thanks God, not everyone thinks like you about releasing it into the atmosphere. Just take off your manifold every 70k-100k miles, soak valves with B12-chemtool and remove the gunk with a drill wire brush
I made my own vacuum attachment that goes over the intake port and bought a sand blaster and walnut media. Was way better than a can of cleaner when I was done. Used a clean vacuum filter and reused the media for each intake port.
exactly, now how do i figure out if my brasilian build 2016 VW engine is GDI or port injected? if I ask in english no conclusive result appears and I have no Idea how to write or read brasilian. is there an international GDI database?
@@naotamf1588 GDI should have injectors directly in the engine block, while port injection should be before the intake valve, in manifold. You should match them easily by looking at the position of injectors on the engine.
I love the 2.0TSI , but hate the pvc system and misfire problem. I did a complete service of the valves 10 months ago (they were horrible) and it’s acting up again! I bought a catch can And a new intake that I’m gonna put rivnuts into so that I can spray each runner individually as often as I want to… which will be regularly (before buildup occurs) Great video by the way!!!
I’ve read papers on the Italian tune-up my impression is that if it’s an engine that’s consistently run hard and hot, it can somewhat mitigate he buildup of carbon. So basically if it’s a track car or race car that spends it’s life at high RPMs it may not be an issue. But you’ll probably have to tear that engine down after tens of thousands of miles on a track anyway.
I think that'd be more applicable to carbed or port fuel injected cars since there you do have gas run down the valves whereas in GDI it'd only maybe clean the pistons
We used to use water from an atomizer bottle on the intake that helped a lot. Also back in the day we would just switch spark plug leads and there be a little bit of detonation there and that would blow stuff out too. Just don't do it too often.
I've been cleaning my Toyota Yaris 1.5L DI with CRC intake valve cleaner since 19k miles when I bought it. I do this at every 5000 mile oil change. You have to be careful, because the car doesn't really care for the process. After the 1hr heat soak is when things get interesting. I carefully run the residual cleaner through the engine until it's cleaned out, and quits smoking. I avoid loading, because it will miss guaranteed. After clearing it out, I immediately change the oil. I plan to do a before and after borescope this summer to see how effective it is. But the motor runs great at 55k. No misses. No power loss that I can tell.
Exactly my thoughts when I saw it. As the original owner of a B6 Passat Wagon, I Love the design of older VW wagons they built back then. And they were quality vehicles even with their small quirks like excessive oil consumption and carbon buildup.
Quite a few years back when i was still a stupid teenager i used to drive my car like if the road was a race track. Litteraly going as fast as the car and road would allow me to, and redlining the crap out of my engine in every gear. I drove a 1999 ford escort turbo DI 1.8 Diesel completely original except for increased boost and according adjustments to the fuel injection pump. All the factory egr and pcv system hadn't been tampered with. I once dismanteled the intake and egr valve and to my surprise they were absolutely spotless, no sign of carbon build up what so ever. I was quite impressed to say the least ! So i actually do believe in the italian tune up. Also, when ever a client comes to the garage with huge carbon/oil build up, the car is usually owned by someone who isn't driving it hard enough. The best advice (in my opinion) i can give them is to beat the hell out of their engine once in a while to keep it clean.
That is old school engine with fuel injection. The extra fuel cleaned everything. But now in GDI engines, the injectors are located inside the cylinder, so their is nothing to clean the top of the valves. This is why the "Italian Tune up" does not work anymore.
You can add an oil catch can to help prevent carbon build up. It actually works as I installed one in my Accord and every oil change I see about 0.5 oz of oil inside and my car only has 30k miles. I highly recommend this product as it works and easy to install.
There is one situation where the Italian tune-up works perfectly. on a system where low load is direct injection, and high load uses upper level port injectors.. regularly driving the vehicle hard enough prevents the type of carbon buildup you're talking about. Babying the vehicle around, "driving nice", causes carbon buildup
I think for a daily driver port injection is superior because you don’t have to worry about cleaning carbon every 60k miles. Direct injection is definitely better for performance but I think I’m going to stick with my port injection
direct injection gets better fuel economy aswell, they are typically tuned leaner than port injection and can run more ignition timing since the fuel mixture is added close to tdc and isnt mixed with the air until the last possible moment resulting in alot less chance of detonation.
You can't "stick with it" because no manufacturers offers a port injected engine since 2015 or so. So, if you want a new(er) car, you have no choice. Soon, it's gonna be the same with turbos. You'll get a tiny engine with a turbo, instead of a V6.
@Shane people are going crazy over carbon deposits. Yeah so carbon builds up , as long as it doesn't block the valve from seating it's not a big deal. Every 100k get it cleaned
Great video 👍🏻 I reckon EVs like ID.3/4 will take care of having to deal with this issue 😎 I’m happy to have port injection in my car however my wife’s is DI 😖
The new SP oils are supposed to limit the amount of oil coke, oil residue that contribute to the carbon buildup. GDI is not going to go away, it's too important to get the CAFE standards. Interesting that some GDI engines are more prone to the buildup than others without any obvious intake or PCV design differences.
I've been using seafoam spray on my cars once or twice a year, and a little bit in the oil just before a change (every other change, 10k miles) it really helps. Our second car has over 100,000 miles on it and when my mechanic cracked it open to do something else he said it was the cleanest engine he'd ever seen with that many miles.
@@1234aren seafoam spray will do it. It may kick an engine code for misfire after you do it. It's temporary. You can either wait for it to clear itself or clear the code yourself.
I did exactly what you described at 7:20min. Scrubbing, cleaning, scrubbing and cleaning etc. It took a day on my 6 cylinder and the car drives like new again. It was completely black and thick on my BMW N54 engine. It is also easy to do with some technical knowledge. Take intake manifold off, clean and replace intake manifold rubber gasket.
@Lassi Kinnunen he is talking about cleaning the carbon from the valve while the engine is running. The carbon forms when the gasoline hits the HOT valve and some of the heavier constituents stick and burn to the back of the valve head. I've head the best results by adding small amounts of water to the intake while the engine is hot. This causes the carbon to crystallize and break off. It's a sort of a steam cleaning action.
Driving it hard doesn't help anything. The sad fact is that all these direct injection engines are going to need intake valve cleaning every 50,000 miles or so. Walnut blasting is the way to go.
The Italian tune up method worked on my 2014 AUDI Q5 with the 2.0l. It is running belter than any other time since we bought it in 14. We only have 33k miles on it. It also cleared out two codes.
You can try using round aluminum telescopic tube, 1/16 or 3/32 diameter, glue and bend 2-4 of them to a shape that would fit in the MAP sensor hole with a rubber plug at around mid point. Then snug fit the outside end to a spray feeding tube. That way you can safely control the spray direction inside the intake feeding each cylinder equally.
The carbon deposit can be blasted with dry-ice blaster with a tip-nipple between 10mm-20mm and then air cleaned with a pressurized air-gun.. no more carbon deposits super quick !
@@poplaurentiu4148 If all that could fit in the MAP sensor hole and without removing the intake manifold or fuel rail. If I have to remove it, I'd use a walnut blaster. Your technique may work also 🍻 I hate these direct fuel injected cars. Port injection or electric the way to go. Just add more gears to be at a lower rpm at cruising speed, if they want to save fuel. Direct injection and auto start systems ends up burning more time and resources as it requires more frequent fuel pump replacement due to higher pressure, fuel injectors replacement as the seals goes bad on them when removing to clean the carbon, and starters replacement from repetitious ignition. That's not even factoring in the time or resources to get and stock those parts on the shelf. But the government likes the tax money, the dealer likes replacing and over charging for parts, and the people can care less because there's no pride in ownership (lease and replace cars in a year or so). So that small amount of fuel a direct injection system might save does more harm than good. Like said, just more gears lower rpm would equal the same proficiency.
For mechanical removal of carbon buildup (media blasting) has anyone tried dried ice blasting? This should have the benefit of eliminating the mess of walnut shells as the dry ice simply evaporates. Also, there's no risk of walnut shells ending up in side the cylinder or edges of the valve, possibly causing other issues from media contamination. Your thoughts or experience are appreciated.
I was googling this issue on my Toyota Prius Gen 3, did not know that Audi guys had covered this LOL. Guess I got to open my intake manifold then, and give it a good scrub. Thanks 😌
Ordered an received an fuel injector removal an seal install tool kit from you at Deutsche auto just wanted to say the tool kit is top quality an I'm very happy an pleased with my purchase,I'd recommend buying this kit for anyone looking to do a carbon cleaning job on there di turbo motor,now just waiting on the seals an walnut blast kit I got coming along with the catch can system,,which if done right I believe is a must for 1.8/2.0t motors ,,,the right catch can kit is expensive an ppl are on the fence about if the motor benefits from it or not ,,well from what I've seen an researched it's better to have one then not ,,after you clean the carbon by hand that is ,,then use the chemical cleaning before every oil change an that'll deff prolong having to pull the manifold off every 30 to 40 k ,, also please use premium gas in these engines ppl ,you get the same mileage anyways ,,,87 is the enemy of these motors ,,thanks again for the kit top top quality for the price👍
Good video! Actually I missed the very effective walnut blast method. It definitely comes with some costs and can’t be done at home, but achieves great results 😊
@@juanramos2745 ONLY if you already have the blasting hardware. Otherwise you're investing in a blasting setup which is going to be a fair chunk of change.
There are just 3 solutions: - Walnut blasting - Lease the car and get rid of it within 36 months - Deciding for another car with port injection. I decided for the last one.
many of the new korean cars have direct injection and a port injector to alleviate the carbon deposits. i'm unsure if the krauts have done this to their range yet.
From what Ive found after doing at least 50 of these carbon cleanings on the 1.8 and 2.0 FSI motors, premium gasoline works the best for eating away the carbon. Ive tried a ton of different cleaners, from Wurth, Techron, Napa, Berryman etc, and they all needed much more time to soak through and eat up the carbon. Premium gas can cut it down in under 30 minutes.
@@soulsocket7 Well both, use premium if your car requires it, but when doing a carbon cleaning I make sure the valves are closed and fill the intake ports with gas, let it soak and brush it away.
This is why at every vw Stealership I've ever worked at, we just replace the manifold and walnut blast the hell out of the head. Only real way to get a D.I. engine clean. Same with my time at the BMW shops. Walnut blast. I think the seafoam method via the brake booster vacuum line only really works well on conventional f.i. style cars. I've had great success with it in that scenario
@@monkymind4316 IIRC like 4 or so hours of labor. I'd check to see what book time is on pulling the intake manifold, and then add on at least an hour to blast the ports. I'd probably say 2 to 2.5 hours to pull the manifold and then another 1.5 hours to blast. If you really want to know, I would give them a call and ask them. If you have access to the equipment to blast, the job is really easy and it's a pretty simple DIY with basic tools. HTH. Take care.
I have a 2017 Kia Sedona with the V6 GDI engine since 7600 miles. At each 5k I change the oil and filter. At the 10's I use the CRC method and now the van has nearly 70k miles and the intake valves look new and they're dry. So, I am certain the chemical treatments work great for preventing trouble. I also use Pennzoil Platinum because it scored the best on evaporation testing and that means less drawn into vapor into the intake PCV system.. Cheaper oils do evaporate more. BTW, the PCV hoses have no wetness, so I don't think a catch can would do much. It's all about proper maintenance with good synthetic oil.
@@abdulelahahmed4027 Yes, that's the product. You spray it into the intake in bursts a couple seconds apart, not just spray all at once which can do ring damage, while the engine is running approx 2500rpm. The detailed instructions are on the can, or you can do a web search for directions.
Exactly how does high octane fuel use keep the valves clean of a direct injection engine? The fuel is being directly being sprayed into the cylinders, bypassing the valves. Port injection sprays fuel on the valves and is a solvent to keep the valves clean.
Not sure that you have fixed it, considering that lately most Honda engines are made DI and turbo. So they will most likely have the same issues. Plus oil dilution, witch is a hole another level of problems down the road.
I had an intake manifold leak on my 4.3 Chevy V6. When correcting the problem, I noticed the driver's side head and rocker arms looked beautiful and clean. The passenger side however had what I would consider a typical amount of residue for a 250,000 mile engine. The driver's side, the clean side, vents to just below the air cleaner above the throttle body. I always assumed the PCV side of the engine would allow blowby vapors into the engine. I installed a catch can on the driver's side and I was surprised to see that moisture and snotty looking stuff inside the can. I now have suspicions of a head gasket leak at the same location, allowing water into the lifter valley just as before. I'm thinking positive about this. If moisture (steam) kept the rocker arms clean, maybe this moisture being sucked into the engine is keeping my intake valves clean. 😁 Hey, I'm a positive thinker. My catch can is half-full, not half empty. 👍 I know this video is a couple years old but it's great information 👍
The problem with the intake manifold chemical spray service is that if a large amount of carbon sludge and the chemicals from the can pass into the combustion chamber and then through the exhaust, it can damage the catalytic converter. Install a catch can day one of ownership. after 40-50k miles, use a bore scope to look inside the intake manifold at the top of the valves to determine if an intake manifold/walnut blasting is necessary.
@itsadubsession my guy, nobody will ever be able to fix a worn out engine by revving it up. the deal is, old engines tend to gunk up, and if you drive like and old lady for small periods of time, it builds up! that's why sometimes even low mile engines start to act up out of the blue
Thanks for this thorough (and entertaining) video. IMHO, GDI is a solution to a problem we didn't have! Port injection was just about flawless, and mostly trouble free. Too bad the KISS principle got lost along the way.
The problem was emissions and indirectly fuel economy. GDI improves both, at the expense of higher particulates (hence GPF exhaust systems) and carbon fouling on the previous generation of engines.
There is an important benefit to GDI. GDI allows a significant (~20%) increase in compression without pre-detonation on the same octane fuel. The expansion of the high pressure liquid in the combustion chamber provides limited time, local Joule-Thompson cooling. This allows a higher compression ratio with the same pre-detonation limits. Higher compression means higher thermodynamic efficiency and this higher torque, power, lower specific fuel consumption. It can be likened to almost free meth-water injection system. A remarkable technical advance. For example, it is the primary reason that normally aspirated V8s are now able to achieve torque (lb-ft) and peak horsepower ( hp) outputs of well above 1/ in^3 below 6500 rpm. For example in a modern high-output Hemi, Coyote or 6 L GM vs. the same size motor 15 years ago, outputs are up 20% and fuel efficiency is up as well, (other tech improvements and hocus pocus contribute to the fuel consumption improvements).
Yep, I know all the benefits of GDI, but I just feel that we are well into the range of diminishing returns. Those fuel savings pale in the face of the ongoing need for major servicing. Technology has to be able to succeed in the real world, not just in the EPA Labs. I prefer a configuration that allows a vehicle to continue serving well into advanced old age, which has a significant effect on reducing its lifecycle carbon footprint. In my view, too many vehicle now are getting scrapped due to no longer being economically repairable. Just one guy's opinion. Peace.
@@bobmcl2406 We absolutely are into diminishing returns, no doubt about it. However the government set the targets that car manufacturers have to hit, and it's not going to happen without resorting to these techniques. I'm certain car manufacturers would be very happy to stick to older, much cheaper technology if they could get away with it.
@@bobmcl2406 True. But the Green Nanny's demand harder & harder standards... Good news. Beginning in 2017 gas vehicles, US manufacturers solved this by adding port injectors, improving intake valve washing and giving a wider efficient operating range.
Great video that was cool how you showed the before and after. I used the CDI Intake cleaner it definitely made a difference now after seeing this video I feel like I should spray another can or two into my Kia soul 2016 40k miles. I changed my spark plugs on my Kia soul at 40k miles. Decided to check them today Why have my new spark plugs blackened after only a month. My oil is still crystal clear I only drive locally to run errands and food shopping. Just wondering if this is normal. your channel should absolutely have millions of subscribers for sure. Use better tags and descriptions.
I still think the best solution is choosing an engine with dual fuel injector, one for the cylinder , the other for the manifold. However, you are stock with a direct fuel injection system, perhaps the easiest way is switching to synthetic oil which has a lower vapor pressure and so less crankcase vapor to start the problem.
@@henrytsai590 Use your own judgment. The idea is to change your oil before it gets too dirty. The cleaner the oil, the fewer contaminants flow into the intake manifold through the car's PCV system.
@Bryce Czirr My Polo is at 270.000km = around 167000 miles. I'm curious about what the valves would look like (1.2 TSI - running on LPG) I think it should be good, I can get up to 6l/100km on LPG and drive 90% highway mileage
@Bryce Czirr yeah but are they living and driving in a rural country area without paved roads like where this Golf had been for 70k miles? I doubt it. 😎
The old old PCV system that dumps PCV vapors on the street was the 50s and before, PCV systems as we understand them now started in the 60s and would recirculate vapor through the intake as well. Some would put it back into the air filter housing, some would put it into the carb spacer to be drawn into the manifold. In terms of function, not much has changed since then, except perhaps the efficiency. It is common on old performance builds to simply use a breather cap on the valve cover to vent the vapors through a filter and let them go to the atmosphere. Not the best way but certainly simpler than the modern vacuum routing, or especially the 70s and 80s vacuum routing.
I have a 2017 Ford Taurus SHO.. it has the twin turbo'd 3.5L V6... with direct injection. I use high-quality oil (Amsoil Signature Series 10W-30), a JLT catch can, CRC's Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner (which is "specifically designed/formulated for this issue), and a Snow Performance Meth kit... My valves look nearly new. Bought the car used at 42k miles with one previous owner, I'm at 62k now. I've used the CRC spray twice so far. I change oil every 10k miles, and I check my catch can regularly.
I had a Catch Can on my MK5 GTI I've owned for over 12 years. And I still had bad carbon build up when I checked it at 90k. No difference between my Catch can and a non catch can car. I'm sure I could of nit picked but not noticable. My honest Opinion would be to Run a Carbon cleaning Spray every 10k and possibly Pro shop clean the carbon at 80k and if your really anal do a professional carbon clean at 50k. But Catch Can didn't really do much for Carbon in my Opinion.
I have a 1969 Z-28, it's a real X33 car with a 302. For such a small motor it had a lot of cam. It's running a 4.88 gear. The engine had a lot of valve overlap and depending on octane rating I would have to retard the timing to keep it from pre-detonation. The motor would rev really high for a street engine up to 9k RPM. I was constantly pulling pieces of broken valve springs out (I had epoxied oil drain back screens in the cyl heads) and once a year I would remove the heads and replace all of the valve springs. The pistons and cylinder domes\valves were always carbon'd up terribly. So one day I decided to install an Edelbrock water injection setup. It did the trick! Made the mixture much more dense and the engine stopped pre-detonation. But....I was fouling plugs like crazy and having to wipe off sooty carbon splattering off of the rear spoiler. The car is Hugger Orange with White Stripes, so the spattering was really obvious. I thought about removing the water injection but then after a couple of weeks it stopped splattering and fouling plugs. Sometime later I pulled the heads to replace the valve springs and was amazed that the piston crowns and combustion chambers were spotless! The heads and pistons looked like they were all freshly rebuilt. I could tell the instant that water inj bottle went dry though! Eventually the Vari-Jection controller failed and Edelbrock had quit making them. I went with a 400 block with main saddle half spacers and a 350 crank with a 350 main cap for the 400 bolt pattern. I used a 2 bolt truck block and had the outers splayed for more bottom end strength. I didn't need as much cam so the engine wasn't as temperamental. Don't even get me started on all the mods I had to do to the Holley 650 to make that little 302 run like it wanted. So how come nobody makes a simple water injection setup for these direct injection engines? Sure seems like there is a market for them. It could go right behind the Mass Air Flow sensor or speed density thingy, what ever type VW uses, and provide a dense water vapor charge to the cylinders. Guarantee that would cure the carbon build up problem. BTW, I hope all of that plumbing shown for the meth\water injection was all for theater. My old water injection had a small tank and like 5 wires total.
Hi again,this problem is fun to discusse. Most cars drives short distances and carbon builds up! If you take a long trip every year, say 2000km you blow out carbon and engine is ok! As I told before on this site!
Heavy metals like palladium and platinum and rhodium are very resistant as is the ceramic core to chemicals, extended over fueling from a misfire etc is what causes the run away reaction and melts the core.
@@heavenlyhatch6219 not true. The chemicals in these type cleaners affect the catalyst in the catalytic converter and if done often enough will damage them. I would like to see in writing from the manufacturer claiming that if any catalytic converter damage did occur that they would reimburse the buyer. Problem is? They will never do that. Wonder why 🤔
Catalytic converters are covered under federal warranty for 8yrs or 80000 miles and most chemical companies will give you an additional warranty for using their products as long as your in a certain mileage range. So I would do fuel/carbon services based off of that fact alone. I know BG will cover up to 4K if done before 30k miles and up to 2k if done before 75k miles.
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Humble Mechanic did a video on this like a year or 2 ago.
Easiest thing to do is...
1. get a bunch of small zip ties
2. tape them to a small dowel that you and put in a cordless drill
3. remove intake manifold
4. with valves closed, flood the port with brake clean and let it sit for like 5 min
5. With your mcgyver'd brush in a drill, and run it in the port.
6. soak up/remove the dirty brake clean with a rag
7. repeat with the other ports (with turning the crank by hand to make sure the ports being cleaned are closed)
i was just coming here to say zipties and a drill but i was a year too late 😄
@@billynomates920 Iz why you got no mates, Billy.
What i did, sell the car buy an Electric car and drive that car for 100.000 miles with just only changing tires.
@@HermanWillems well u drove already 100.000 miles? i would be intrested in the real result there. :)
link?
I'm Italian and I've just discovered the meaning of "Italian tune up" 😂😂. In fact, in Italy we just say "driving normally".
A bit like brazil nuts, in brazil they are just called nuts
My 1st 4 cars were Alfa Romeos. If you didn't thrash them @ least once a week they would start running like crap, probably because of their appetite for the oil. So maybe an 'Italian tune up' was only a neccessary for Italian cars?
But maybe not. Decades ago my boss had a Mercedes. He asked me to take it to the dealer because it had no power. On the way I gave it a thorough thrashing. At first it was definitely sick, but as I neared the dealership it was going much better, so I turned around and thrashed it all the way back. When I got back I gave him the keys and told him it was fixed.
After his puzzled look I told him that he should not not always drive like grandpa.
@@gregculverwell This method is called "freiblasen" in german and actually used to be the common practice for removing carbon buildup in engines. Just drive to a long enoutgh highway section with no speed limit and absolutely floor the pedal for 20-30 minutes.
@@CodewortSchinken freiblasen sounds like a blast it clean? I did that with the 1st Alfa I was bought from the my uncle's neighbour. She sold it's to me for the next to nothing because the engine had a bad rattled and no power. I though it was knew the reasons. She only used it to go to the locals shops a few km away.
The rattle was a loose timing's chain and arrived with a 14mm spanner in my pocket, which is alleged you needed to adjust it.
Then on the Friday night I set out to visit family and out on the farm. Once I got out of on a deserted single lane and put my foot down, redlining in every gear
At first it wouldn't getting past 120 kph, but it slowly improved. When it reached 160 I noticed a red globe behind men an a big cloud of sparks. Its though it is had caught fire & stopped. But there was nothing. I was very puzzled and started out again. The flakes & sparks reappeared, but now I knew it was was all the carbon being burnt out. After the about 10 minutes it stopped and the car was going very well.
I do an Italian tune up every chance! Almost every day! Lol
I bought a used VW FSI 2.0T that was seriously clogged. I removed the intake, removed a lot of the carbon using soft aluminum 'chisels' about the size of a flat screwdriver, being careful to ensure the valves were closed so nothing could drop in the cylinder. Then I used a small tube attached to a vacuum to suck out the loose stuff. Then I squirted Castrol Purple cleaning fluid into the head intakes and agitated it around using an old nylon toothbrush and sucked it out a again. I repeated this for each intake throat until they and the valve heads were completely clean. It took an afternoon to clean all eight intake valve throats so they looked like new. Castrol purple is awesome! I have installed a catch can system to the PCV manifold. The car runs great now. Total cost, including the catch can. plumbing and PCV manifold mods was less than $80 and well worth it.
I have yet to meet anyone that has actually achieved anything except clouds of smoke out the exhaust using these various chemical concoctions before paying a mechanic to take the manifold off and physically remove the coke. Don't waste you money. Take the time and do it yourself.
nice job man!
This seems like the best method I’ve read. I’ll give it a go
Pretty much what I did on my 1.9 diesel which are known to cake carbon though I used different product. I used oven cleaner, carb cleaner, water, a pick set, wet dry shop vac, and an air compressor air gun. You just have to be careful, you have to rotate the engine and make sure the valve you're working on is closed then scrape the heavy caked carbon with the picks and vacuum it out. The spray the oven cleaner in and wait for a bit, then spray water in and finally blow out with the air gun, final cleaning is with the carb cleaner to remove any residue. Rinse and repeat on each one until its clean. It got the intake area impressively clean.
He is right. This is literally the only thing that works. You can use other cleaners and high grade solvents as well, but the process is fairly easy and the only way to do it.
The spray-in intake valve cleaners are intended for maintenance purposes, every 5k or 10k depending on your vehicle or how you drive. It's not for cleaning out years of caked on carbon build-up on the intake valves as your used car purchase.
Should have seen the amount of smoke that came out of my car. I literally put a cloud down the whole street. It actually stopped traffic . It helped my gdi engine alot. When I put seafoam in it , the bottle says to hold the rpms around 1500-2000 when adding through the intake. And like he said make sure your not spraying the mass airflow sensor . Would highly recommend seafoam .
The best summary of realistic alternatives to carbon buildup I have seen. I am hoping the combination of having a Gen 3 VW, Top Tier fuel, high quality oil and mostly highway driving will reduce the probability of problems.
Hey look, it's my car! (146k Mk7). Great video as always, and the 5 Guys comparison was spot on
I have a very simple vacuum operated water injector I built with some basic fittings that I use on a GDI Kia. While I haven’t visually inspected the intake valves, it has been running progressively better the longer the devise is in use. I also think that in addition to cleaning intake valves, it is important to clean the injector nozzles as well, I believe that they get carbon deposits on them in the combustion chamber and these deposits disturb the shape of the spray pattern. This water injection system is in my opinion the very best way to decarbon everything in the combustion chamber, perhaps most importantly the injector nozzles. I’m not a fan of GDi engines, I understand the benefits, but I think they come at too high of a price to be worth it in the long run. Give me the old port injection any day.
Designed to be thrown away at 150,000 max.
The simple fix some manufacturers are using is having a second set of injectors at the port. It's supposed to be used during performance demands and keeps the intake valves clean. Hopefully more manufactures will adopt this method.
There is one true fix, Ford calls it dual-fuel, Toyota calls it D-4S, even VW has already implemented their solution in other markets. Multiport fuel injection, add some good old port injection to a direct injected engine to keep those intake valves clean. This is the reason I traded my 2015 F150 for a 2018. Thankfully the aftermarket has come to the rescue with kits available. I'll take a good look at the options once my water pump goes and I have to pull the intake manifold.
Save yourself 18mins - no, it doesn't work
Did not see the vid but i know what worx - egr/carb cleaner sprayed directly in the intake (through throttle), the stuff that went out of the exhaust 😲😲😲 EDIT: though the guy who sprayed it sprayed too little, 500ml can and there's still more than 2/3rds in there
😂😂 Thanks!
😂😂 Thanks!
Thank you
Thanks
Almost seems like it would be beneficial to run a can of the spray before removing the manifold to help loosen the deposited carbon before jumping into a manual cleaning. Thank you for the new obtained knowledge!
Plastic manifold = no VOC cleaners it will turn into jelly. :)
This channel is just pure quality by every metric.
Hello, EA211 TSI owner here. If feels like you dumped the stuff into the cold engine, considering how the engine rattles. High temperatures speedup such chemical reactions - try cleaning carbon buildup on a hot electric kitchen stove vs cold, you'll see how easier hot one is dissolving. :) So the overall result would probably be better when the engine was fully warmed up.
Thanks for the video, I have 55k miles on my engine, should try this in the future.
My son and I just settled into the fact that periodic cleaning of carbon build up is just part of owning and Maintaining the GTI. Not so much a bummer any more. We set our self up with the Walnut Blaster, Intake Gaskets, Injector Reseal Kits and fresh Spark Plugs. Tasty Beverage and a few hours....Done.
Better use sea foam every 8K miles as a preventive measure, no more build up.
@@90210sky sea foam in to the gas tank?
@@alexandro6126 you can use it in the gas tank, but I meant to spray into a vacuum line once a month or so, easy and convenient.
Super informative! Once pointed out, it seems obvious, but I'd never considered this being an issue before for direct injection. Now I know!
Excellent video ☝️
Catch-Can fan here 👍.
I installed mine on my brand new Honda Ridgeline 3.5-liter V-6 right at 900 miles on the odometer. I’m a Mobil1 user and do my oil changes at 3K miles. First oil change coming up in 500 miles, we’ll see how much condensed stuff is collected…
Thanks for the info !
Great video! It seems like the best solution is to stay away from DI engines and go with a Port or Dual Injection engine.
I agree. The biggest benefit of DI fuel systems is to the auto manufacturer, to meet ever-increasing fuel economy standards. Even a 1-mpg improvement can make a difference to a carmaker - while adding hundreds of dollars in maintenance costs (i.e., media-blasting) to the car's owner, negating fuel cost savings.
youre right but most vag engines before 2015 in the us dont have dual injection
Toyota D4S is your friend
GDI engines are actually a no brainer. That is currently the most efficient fuel delivery method. Compare 2.0 engines of today to decades ago; almost double the HP and better efficiency. Take into account today's fuel has been diluted not just with ethanol but a bunch of additives (try evaporating gasoline and see what percentage of additives are left. Add to that all of the emission controls vehicles have and you can see how much more efficient engines are today.
How you ask?
Direct injection is one piece of the puzzle. The other is fuel delivery PSI. Manufacturers will just keep increasing the fuel pressure to keep the marketing scheme going.
Stratified makes a great little throttle body(sort of) injection system. It is $900.00, but you don't need to mess with a meth injection system( although there is a port for meth as well).
I've been using the exact same intake manifold method with the Liqui Moly Valve Cleaner on my wife's 1.6T Hyundai engine. I perform that procedure annually and do not see the typical white smoke from the exhaust that is so prominent for e.g. Sea Foam. I'm very pleased with the results, I do compare the before and after with a borescope camera. Yes yes I know the Valve cleaner is a fuel additive, but in the the direct injection engine it would not be sprayed over the vales so it needs a bit of help :) Not endorsing anything, just sharing my experience. Perform at your own risk.
So I have a big question for you how many miles on that Tucson ? Also did you have to take off the intake manifold to inspect the valves I have a 2020 Tucson aswell new and I run a catch can but would like to inspect the valves someday without having to remove the intake manifold like I had to on our 2016 Tucson. All I gotta say manually cleaning the valves sucked bad lol your back is going to hurt lol.
@@henrytom5824 Around 30k on the first cleaning. I'm not removing the intake manifold, just the pressure/temp sensor from the intake manifold (two screws only). I use a borescopes camera to inspect the valves before and after through the sensor hole. It's tricky but doable. For the cleaning itself, I just peel the sensor a bit and spray small doses of the valve cleaner with a small syringe.
Toyota has a wonderful system that combines port and direct injection systems on several of its engines. Not only does it get rid of the problem you're talking about; Port Injection works better at idle and lower speeds. And there are conditions where both systems are used simultaneously for better efficiency
Fords f150 I think offers this or at least has port injection one one motor still
What makes you think Port Injection is better at idle?
as far as im aware, the port injector on the d4s system is only used on cold start and during warm up? im sure it still helps
@@Buddahknife I do not believe that is true. I believe it is used generally at lower RPM; and sometimes simultaneously with direct injection. I'm sure Toyota has all this figured out as to the advantages of doing it that way
@@Buddahknife it is also used as you describe
I did the ol “aggressively ram zip ties into the valves for 2 hours” trick. Worked great! now I know that my oil burning issue is elsewhere 😂
Brilliant video, thank you for including the negatives as well as the positives.
It would have been nice if they put inspection ports on the intake ports. This way you not have to remove the entire intake to inspect and easier address the problem.
if they do that they could just fix the actual problem anyways
Toyota literally has this what are y’all smoking
Where Paul inserted the chemical line you can buy a boroscope for your phone and fish it in to see the valves
@@kevinmallon8692 I was thinking the same thing while watching this video. I have a wifi boroscope. I’ll try it out and check soon.
@@mohammadkamran5862 let us know how it went with your car Mohammad
Pull the intake manifold and spray Mr Muscle oven cleaner in the two ports where the valves are closed, leave for 1 hour and then use wire brush to remove all the carbon crud. The valves will come up shiney and new. Rotate the engine so the other valves are closed and repeat. Mr Muscle £8 a can and a couple of hours of your time.
Interesting! How do you get all the gooey crud out though?
Damages the surface of the aluminum and results in faster build ups. Mr Muscle even states that it shouldn’t be used on Aluminum!
For those who remember it, there was also Throttle Body Injection (TBI), a.k.a. the White Castle of fuel injection systems.
I owned a Throttle body injection Chevy truck....those were the days🤣
@@gatornation3889 yup I had an old ‘89 S-10 Blazer 4.3L with TBI. I took off the air cleaner once and watched the cone sprays, kinda fascinating.
@@peacefrog0521 that was a bad ass engine that 4.3
Stratified makes a "5th injector" kit. It is about a grand and comes with it's own fuel meter system. FSI and TSI I believe.
Chevy Sonic 2012, 1.8L 186,000 miles, high LDL cholesterol, blown head gasket. Currently pulled the head and was wondering why there are particles in my intake. Now I know. Now I have some cleaning to do. Intake valves are relatively surprisingly clean but exhaust valves and exhaust facing guides have carbon buildup. Another set of cleaning to do. Thanks for posting this video
I love how you say science says it just doesn't work and there is papers proving it,
even though I saw others do it and also did it myself, and it worked
Anecdotal evidence is not proof something works
Yeah ive seen a few videos where guys use an inspection camera show gunked up valves, use crc and then show the valves again and there is a good 70-80% reduction in the build up.
Sarcastic entertainment and education all in one video. Great work! Really like these types of videos.
I feel like spraying it in on a completely cold engine (so it doesn’t evaporate as fast)for a few second, allowing it to soak into the carbon for a while with the engine off, then spray the rest of the bottle as the engine warms up, might give it the best chance if rinsing the valve and port
Berryman 0996-ARM B-9 Chem Dip Parts Cleaner
This stuff works to get rid of carbon buildup like nothing else and it doesn't cause any damage like some decreasers would. I haven't tried this but not doubt would work; injecting the stuff into the valve port while it's closed and let it sit for a couple days.
@@levthelion I agree. Hest!!!
Definitely right I’ll try with a cold engine next time
@@levthelion all the valves are not closed at the same time.
so it would take you a week to do that if you need to soak it for a couple of days !
Sea Foam: Yet needs to directly applied to the valves, and allow to soak (rotate last cylinder), works awesome.
Scavenger kit: Catch can who?
Absolute fantastic video I own a couple of cars including a Volkswagen and what's interesting is for my Chevy everything looks pristine even with high mileage since I've gotten the vehicle I used a combination of one cup seafoam and 1/4 cup water mixed through a vacuum line while the engine is at operating temperature and it has cleaned fantastically doing this once a year but the Volkswagen you have to be way more careful what you put in it! By the way if you do my method make sure you do it really slowly
Great video - informative and entertaining. I was hoping to see you do a walnut shell service - to see how that worked. I will check out your other videos for that though. Thanks for posting this.
The best way to clean up carbon build-up is to go nuts 😉
Anybody that has done a manual cleaning on a DI engine will know there's no way product you spray into the intake is gonna do anything significant.
DiagnoseDan did a similar test with a "powerful" product they only sell to shops, and same thing--very small amount of removal. No such thing as mechanic-in-a-bottle/can.
Yea well I wonder if a water injection system would help.
I ran a homemade one on my tdi for years, and also routed the pcv somewhere else.
When I tore it down after 60k or so, the ports had nada buildup and the pistons and combustion chambers didn't look like a diesel.
It had black on it but not any thick carbon at all.
You'd get a dirty finger if you ran it down a port wall but it was clean as a whistle.
My setup blew right in the turbo as I had no intercooler on that setup, so that's easy.
With an intercooler it could puddle up and cause issues , at that point it's better to pressurize it and inject after the intercooler.
actually B-12 Chemtool combined with the drill wire brush was a pure magic. Well, the true magic is a wire brush tbh
@@GlennC789 i would also like to know. Although it seems that sucking it out with a vacuum cleaner of some sorts would be bestm
They work if you use them before the carbon gets so bad it requires manual cleaning. Using intake cleaner prior to every oil change and your valves will be spotless.
@@GlennC789 When I did this on a GM 3.0 V6 (100k miles, had never been cleaned - it was bad), I pulled the intake and turned the engine over by hand til the valves I wanted to work on were closed, then used a set of long picks to break the bulk of the softer crud off. If you use steel picks, be careful not to score up the valves. Then I used a shop vac to suck as much of that crud out as I could. Then, I sprayed some CRC GDI Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner directly onto the valve stems until the little pocket they sit in in the head was full, and they were submerged in the stuff, and let it soak for a bit. Then I uses several sizes of long handled copper and nylon "bottle brushes" that I bought at Harbor Freight to scrub off the rest of the crap, then blotted it all up with shop towels. Don't suck it out with a vacuum, I imagine it would explode! After I'd gotten the stems and back of the valves pretty well cleaned up, I turned the engine to open the valves and scrubbed the mating surfaces between the seat and valve the best I could with a thin but stiff nylon brush. Then I moved on to the next cylinder. All in all, I think it took me a solid 6-7 hours (like I said, they were in bad shape).
Now, the CRC cleaner is meant to be sprayed into the intake with the engine running, like the product shown in this video. I did use it that way after the manual cleaning, but it would never have gotten through the buildup without some manual action on the valves, as bad as they were. But I do believe the stuff is legitimate for routine maintenance, and would probably prevent the buildup from ever getting that bad to begin with. Here is a video about the stuff I used (I have no affiliation with them at all, I'm just a shadetree mechanic):
th-cam.com/video/RcVDZAauO88/w-d-xo.html
lol well at least now I know I've been wasting my money on the sprays that do nothing. walnut blast or manual removal is definitely the way to go.
If used since new they have been helping you. They just won't fix a already bad buildup
Avoid short trips, change your oil slightly more frequently than vw specifies and use the best quality fuel available...prevention is better than the cure
Quality fuel has nothing to do with it. And changing oil slightly early won’t do anything. No matter what you do you WILL get carbon buildup.
@@theofficialwizard2753 Vent the PCV into the atmosphere, that will fix it. 😉
@@theofficialwizard2753 but with the newer engines there's combined port injection with direct, which should help with cleaning the carbon
just buy a Toyota or a Lexus, they have port and direct fuel injection, so no issues when it comes to carbon build
@@doctorwarpspeed8779 I am concerned more about my home Earth than a stupid car engine. Thanks God, not everyone thinks like you about releasing it into the atmosphere. Just take off your manifold every 70k-100k miles, soak valves with B12-chemtool and remove the gunk with a drill wire brush
All the fuel savings cost goes down the drain when you have to spend hundreds to get walnut blasted.
I made my own vacuum attachment that goes over the intake port and bought a sand blaster and walnut media. Was way better than a can of cleaner when I was done. Used a clean vacuum filter and reused the media for each intake port.
exactly, now how do i figure out if my brasilian build 2016 VW engine is GDI or port injected? if I ask in english no conclusive result appears and I have no Idea how to write or read brasilian. is there an international GDI database?
@@naotamf1588 GDI should have injectors directly in the engine block, while port injection should be before the intake valve, in manifold. You should match them easily by looking at the position of injectors on the engine.
@@robertfattaruso1280 Show us the video please? Id like to try this set up
I love the 2.0TSI , but hate the pvc system and misfire problem.
I did a complete service of the valves 10 months ago (they were horrible) and it’s acting up again!
I bought a catch can
And a new intake that I’m gonna put rivnuts into so that I can spray each runner individually as often as I want to… which will be regularly (before buildup occurs)
Great video by the way!!!
Did the catch can help?
@@djsoulfilter too cold in the great white North… gotta wait for spring
Fantastic video! Educational, while making me laugh out loud multiple times. Great work guys!
It was better looking in "before" pictures, just my 2cents.
One of DAP’s best yet! Thanks for puttIng that together.
I’ve read papers on the Italian tune-up my impression is that if it’s an engine that’s consistently run hard and hot, it can somewhat mitigate he buildup of carbon. So basically if it’s a track car or race car that spends it’s life at high RPMs it may not be an issue. But you’ll probably have to tear that engine down after tens of thousands of miles on a track anyway.
I think that'd be more applicable to carbed or port fuel injected cars since there you do have gas run down the valves whereas in GDI it'd only maybe clean the pistons
This is the "BEST" most detailed and comprehensive explanation I have ever watched. Thank you very much.
"Who Am I, I'm Just a Guy"- Paul, 2020
Paul gave me Richard Ramirez vibes with that line!
@@818_MT-09 hah...well damn
We used to use water from an atomizer bottle on the intake that helped a lot.
Also back in the day we would just switch spark plug leads and there be a little bit of detonation there and that would blow stuff out too. Just don't do it too often.
It looks like the intake chamber carbon ended up on the valves. I think 2 treatments in a row would be an interesting view.
Gotcha, just have a dump pipe to the road and no carbon build up from pcv fumes 👍🏻
I've been cleaning my Toyota Yaris 1.5L DI with CRC intake valve cleaner since 19k miles when I bought it. I do this at every 5000 mile oil change. You have to be careful, because the car doesn't really care for the process. After the 1hr heat soak is when things get interesting. I carefully run the residual cleaner through the engine until it's cleaned out, and quits smoking. I avoid loading, because it will miss guaranteed. After clearing it out, I immediately change the oil. I plan to do a before and after borescope this summer to see how effective it is. But the motor runs great at 55k. No misses. No power loss that I can tell.
That wagon is absolutely beautiful. Really sad to see it go from the VW model lineup.
Exactly my thoughts when I saw it. As the original owner of a B6 Passat Wagon, I Love the design of older VW wagons they built back then. And they were quality vehicles even with their small quirks like excessive oil consumption and carbon buildup.
Quite a few years back when i was still a stupid teenager i used to drive my car like if the road was a race track. Litteraly going as fast as the car and road would allow me to, and redlining the crap out of my engine in every gear. I drove a 1999 ford escort turbo DI 1.8 Diesel completely original except for increased boost and according adjustments to the fuel injection pump. All the factory egr and pcv system hadn't been tampered with.
I once dismanteled the intake and egr valve and to my surprise they were absolutely spotless, no sign of carbon build up what so ever. I was quite impressed to say the least ! So i actually do believe in the italian tune up.
Also, when ever a client comes to the garage with huge carbon/oil build up, the car is usually owned by someone who isn't driving it hard enough. The best advice (in my opinion) i can give them is to beat the hell out of their engine once in a while to keep it clean.
Brilliant .
That is old school engine with fuel injection. The extra fuel cleaned everything. But now in GDI engines, the injectors are located inside the cylinder, so their is nothing to clean the top of the valves. This is why the "Italian Tune up" does not work anymore.
You can add an oil catch can to help prevent carbon build up. It actually works as I installed one in my Accord and every oil change I see about 0.5 oz of oil inside and my car only has 30k miles. I highly recommend this product as it works and easy to install.
There is one situation where the Italian tune-up works perfectly. on a system where low load is direct injection, and high load uses upper level port injectors.. regularly driving the vehicle hard enough prevents the type of carbon buildup you're talking about.
Babying the vehicle around, "driving nice", causes carbon buildup
I think for a daily driver port injection is superior because you don’t have to worry about cleaning carbon every 60k miles. Direct injection is definitely better for performance but I think I’m going to stick with my port injection
Every 60k miles is very infrequent for a car.
@@catinthehat5140no it's not
direct injection gets better fuel economy aswell, they are typically tuned leaner than port injection and can run more ignition timing since the fuel mixture is added close to tdc and isnt mixed with the air until the last possible moment resulting in alot less chance of detonation.
You can't "stick with it" because no manufacturers offers a port injected engine since 2015 or so.
So, if you want a new(er) car, you have no choice. Soon, it's gonna be the same with turbos. You'll get a tiny engine with a turbo, instead of a V6.
@Shane people are going crazy over carbon deposits. Yeah so carbon builds up , as long as it doesn't block the valve from seating it's not a big deal. Every 100k get it cleaned
Great video 👍🏻
I reckon EVs like ID.3/4 will take care of having to deal with this issue 😎
I’m happy to have port injection in my car however my wife’s is DI 😖
The new SP oils are supposed to limit the amount of oil coke, oil residue that contribute to the carbon buildup. GDI is not going to go away, it's too important to get the CAFE standards. Interesting that some GDI engines are more prone to the buildup than others without any obvious intake or PCV design differences.
Maybe some have better tolerances in the piston rings?
I've been using seafoam spray on my cars once or twice a year, and a little bit in the oil just before a change (every other change, 10k miles) it really helps. Our second car has over 100,000 miles on it and when my mechanic cracked it open to do something else he said it was the cleanest engine he'd ever seen with that many miles.
What car do you own
@@1234aren I have a Corolla and a CRV
@@feddy11100 ok thanks I have a hyundai I've been trying look for something that can help clean up the carbon
@@1234aren seafoam spray will do it. It may kick an engine code for misfire after you do it. It's temporary. You can either wait for it to clear itself or clear the code yourself.
@@1234aren I use CRC intake cleaner and let it soak for several hours.
I did exactly what you described at 7:20min. Scrubbing, cleaning, scrubbing and cleaning etc. It took a day on my 6 cylinder and the car drives like new again. It was completely black and thick on my BMW N54 engine.
It is also easy to do with some technical knowledge. Take intake manifold off, clean and replace intake manifold rubber gasket.
Doing mine at the moment . How did you crank the engine over to get the last 2 valves?
@@edencovich6148 I hope you have figured it out. But I just tried to start it which moved the valves.
If you want to get rid of carbon buildup the easiest way to fix the problem is to stop buying Volkswagen.
He didn't disprove water-methanol injection, so this is the route we should all take going forward.
I just use a little bit of water from time to time. Just plain water. It works great.
No, but there’s many people who have used WMI, and they still got plenty of build up.
@Lassi Kinnunen he is talking about cleaning the carbon from the valve while the engine is running. The carbon forms when the gasoline hits the HOT valve and some of the heavier constituents stick and burn to the back of the valve head.
I've head the best results by adding small amounts of water to the intake while the engine is hot. This causes the carbon to crystallize and break off. It's a sort of a steam cleaning action.
@@3dw3dw Correct , same result as driving hard when there is mist in the weather ...
Based on what I’ve seen, water meth will at the very least prevent build up, but not necessarily remove old build up.
So, I buy a DI engine car so I have a more efficient engine, but I have to use it hard and spend more fuel so it doesn't have carbon, seems legit, lol
Driving it hard doesn't help anything. The sad fact is that all these direct injection engines are going to need intake valve cleaning every 50,000 miles or so. Walnut blasting is the way to go.
Yep, keep the carbon inside the engine because “climate change” 😤
The Italian tune up method worked on my 2014 AUDI Q5 with the 2.0l. It is running belter than any other time since we bought it in 14. We only have 33k miles on it. It also cleared out two codes.
Best way to solve this is to sell the car and buy something newer where manufactures added port injection to solve this issue.
You can try using round aluminum telescopic tube, 1/16 or 3/32 diameter, glue and bend 2-4 of them to a shape that would fit in the MAP sensor hole with a rubber plug at around mid point. Then snug fit the outside end to a spray feeding tube. That way you can safely control the spray direction inside the intake feeding each cylinder equally.
The carbon deposit can be blasted with dry-ice blaster with a tip-nipple between 10mm-20mm and then air cleaned with a pressurized air-gun.. no more carbon deposits super quick !
@@poplaurentiu4148 If all that could fit in the MAP sensor hole and without removing the intake manifold or fuel rail. If I have to remove it, I'd use a walnut blaster. Your technique may work also 🍻 I hate these direct fuel injected cars. Port injection or electric the way to go. Just add more gears to be at a lower rpm at cruising speed, if they want to save fuel. Direct injection and auto start systems ends up burning more time and resources as it requires more frequent fuel pump replacement due to higher pressure, fuel injectors replacement as the seals goes bad on them when removing to clean the carbon, and starters replacement from repetitious ignition. That's not even factoring in the time or resources to get and stock those parts on the shelf. But the government likes the tax money, the dealer likes replacing and over charging for parts, and the people can care less because there's no pride in ownership (lease and replace cars in a year or so). So that small amount of fuel a direct injection system might save does more harm than good. Like said, just more gears lower rpm would equal the same proficiency.
Whoever gives this video a thumbs down must be from those gas treatment companies.
Yes. That boat cleaning company for example.
Fire, that's my solution.... to everything
Works for cleaning TDI intakes for me 👍
For mechanical removal of carbon buildup (media blasting) has anyone tried dried ice blasting? This should have the benefit of eliminating the mess of walnut shells as the dry ice simply evaporates. Also, there's no risk of walnut shells ending up in side the cylinder or edges of the valve, possibly causing other issues from media contamination. Your thoughts or experience are appreciated.
No but I used the Sonic Diced Ice media. Its the best
The walnut shell will burn up as long as you're not filling the cylinder, it's the carbon you're breaking loose that you really need to worry about.
I was googling this issue on my Toyota Prius Gen 3, did not know that Audi guys had covered this LOL. Guess I got to open my intake manifold then, and give it a good scrub. Thanks 😌
Ordered an received an fuel injector removal an seal install tool kit from you at Deutsche auto just wanted to say the tool kit is top quality an I'm very happy an pleased with my purchase,I'd recommend buying this kit for anyone looking to do a carbon cleaning job on there di turbo motor,now just waiting on the seals an walnut blast kit I got coming along with the catch can system,,which if done right I believe is a must for 1.8/2.0t motors ,,,the right catch can kit is expensive an ppl are on the fence about if the motor benefits from it or not ,,well from what I've seen an researched it's better to have one then not ,,after you clean the carbon by hand that is ,,then use the chemical cleaning before every oil change an that'll deff prolong having to pull the manifold off every 30 to 40 k ,, also please use premium gas in these engines ppl ,you get the same mileage anyways ,,,87 is the enemy of these motors ,,thanks again for the kit top top quality for the price👍
Good video! Actually I missed the very effective walnut blast method. It definitely comes with some costs and can’t be done at home, but achieves great results 😊
Not true, did mine at home and there are many kits available online starting at $100
@@juanramos2745 ONLY if you already have the blasting hardware. Otherwise you're investing in a blasting setup which is going to be a fair chunk of change.
< $200 total at harbor freight ask me how I know
I did mine at home with walnut blast. Just used small blaster and shopvac hooked up to suck away the walnut shelling
There are just 3 solutions:
- Walnut blasting
- Lease the car and get rid of it within 36 months
- Deciding for another car with port injection.
I decided for the last one.
many of the new korean cars have direct injection and a port injector to alleviate the carbon deposits. i'm unsure if the krauts have done this to their range yet.
Or a Tesla :-)
@@mcplutt Sure, I forgot to mention. 😃
From what Ive found after doing at least 50 of these carbon cleanings on the 1.8 and 2.0 FSI motors, premium gasoline works the best for eating away the carbon. Ive tried a ton of different cleaners, from Wurth, Techron, Napa, Berryman etc, and they all needed much more time to soak through and eat up the carbon. Premium gas can cut it down in under 30 minutes.
Do you mean regular use of premium gas as fuel or do you mean spraying premium gas into the intake to wash out the carbon?
E85 makes an excellent cleaning solvent.
@@soulsocket7 Well both, use premium if your car requires it, but when doing a carbon cleaning I make sure the valves are closed and fill the intake ports with gas, let it soak and brush it away.
Thanks EPA. Outstanding job screwing up everything decent and reliable that has ever existed.
This is why at every vw Stealership I've ever worked at, we just replace the manifold and walnut blast the hell out of the head. Only real way to get a D.I. engine clean. Same with my time at the BMW shops. Walnut blast. I think the seafoam method via the brake booster vacuum line only really works well on conventional f.i. style cars. I've had great success with it in that scenario
@@monkymind4316
IIRC like 4 or so hours of labor. I'd check to see what book time is on pulling the intake manifold, and then add on at least an hour to blast the ports. I'd probably say 2 to 2.5 hours to pull the manifold and then another 1.5 hours to blast. If you really want to know, I would give them a call and ask them. If you have access to the equipment to blast, the job is really easy and it's a pretty simple DIY with basic tools. HTH. Take care.
Thank you! I am using CRC with every oil change! I’ll try this as well.
Gasoline is a great solvent, and it doesn't cost $5 a can.
@@NuMooX so are you saying when they spray the CRC can into the intake we could actually put some gasoline down there?
@@NuMooX gasoline is no where a powerful solvent as valve cleaner
I have a 2017 Kia Sedona with the V6 GDI engine since 7600 miles. At each 5k I change the oil and filter. At the 10's I use the CRC method and now the van has nearly 70k miles and the intake valves look new and they're dry. So, I am certain the chemical treatments work great for preventing trouble. I also use Pennzoil Platinum because it scored the best on evaporation testing and that means less drawn into vapor into the intake PCV system.. Cheaper oils do evaporate more. BTW, the PCV hoses have no wetness, so I don't think a catch can would do much. It's all about proper maintenance with good synthetic oil.
Can you elaborate more on what the crc method is? Is it using that crc intake and valve cleaner spray? If so how do you do it.
@@abdulelahahmed4027 Yes, that's the product. You spray it into the intake in bursts a couple seconds apart, not just spray all at once which can do ring damage, while the engine is running approx 2500rpm. The detailed instructions are on the can, or you can do a web search for directions.
2:40 That 5 cylinder animation must be rare
Exactly how does high octane fuel use keep the valves clean of a direct injection engine? The fuel is being directly being sprayed into the cylinders, bypassing the valves. Port injection sprays fuel on the valves and is a solvent to keep the valves clean.
Thanks for the great information on tackling valve carbon build up. Seems like walnut blasting is the most effective for a GDI.
Your new hair cut is wayyy cuter
sometimes words are better kept to urself
Sooooo Caaauuuuute
@@superknuckle6510 loosen up, yours is probably amazing too
@@superknuckle6510 Why would you blame someone for a compliment ? :(
süß = cute in Deutschland
This was hilarious, good video fellas!
Fixed mine!!! Bought a Honda!!!!
yea LAME KEEP IT
Not sure that you have fixed it, considering that lately most Honda engines are made DI and turbo. So they will most likely have the same issues. Plus oil dilution, witch is a hole another level of problems down the road.
I had an intake manifold leak on my 4.3 Chevy V6. When correcting the problem, I noticed the driver's side head and rocker arms looked beautiful and clean. The passenger side however had what I would consider a typical amount of residue for a 250,000 mile engine.
The driver's side, the clean side, vents to just below the air cleaner above the throttle body.
I always assumed the PCV side of the engine would allow blowby vapors into the engine.
I installed a catch can on the driver's side and I was surprised to see that moisture and snotty looking stuff inside the can. I now have suspicions of a head gasket leak at the same location, allowing water into the lifter valley just as before.
I'm thinking positive about this. If moisture (steam) kept the rocker arms clean, maybe this moisture being sucked into the engine is keeping my intake valves clean. 😁
Hey, I'm a positive thinker. My catch can is half-full, not half empty. 👍
I know this video is a couple years old but it's great information 👍
The problem with the intake manifold chemical spray service is that if a large amount of carbon sludge and the chemicals from the can pass into the combustion chamber and then through the exhaust, it can damage the catalytic converter. Install a catch can day one of ownership. after 40-50k miles, use a bore scope to look inside the intake manifold at the top of the valves to determine if an intake manifold/walnut blasting is necessary.
remember, kids: a few revs a day keeps the mechanic away
@itsadubsession my guy, nobody will ever be able to fix a worn out engine by revving it up. the deal is, old engines tend to gunk up, and if you drive like and old lady for small periods of time, it builds up! that's why sometimes even low mile engines start to act up out of the blue
Should do a before and after when paying someone to do the engine carbon clean
Then the results come out the same what he just did with the can.
Just look up "walnut blast before/after" there is tons of content out there on carbon cleaning
That is the way we cleaned valves at the dealership. Those walnut shells also make great media for tumbling/cleaning used brass for reloading.
I'm a bit disappointed to see there were no before and after pictures since maybe we'd like to compare a can vs walnut blasting
Thanks for this thorough (and entertaining) video. IMHO, GDI is a solution to a problem we didn't have! Port injection was just about flawless, and mostly trouble free. Too bad the KISS principle got lost along the way.
The problem was emissions and indirectly fuel economy. GDI improves both, at the expense of higher particulates (hence GPF exhaust systems) and carbon fouling on the previous generation of engines.
There is an important benefit to GDI. GDI allows a significant (~20%) increase in compression without pre-detonation on the same octane fuel.
The expansion of the high pressure liquid in the combustion chamber provides limited time, local Joule-Thompson cooling. This allows a higher compression ratio with the same pre-detonation limits. Higher compression means higher thermodynamic efficiency and this higher torque, power, lower specific fuel consumption. It can be likened to almost free meth-water injection system. A remarkable technical advance.
For example, it is the primary reason that normally aspirated V8s are now able to achieve torque (lb-ft) and peak horsepower ( hp) outputs of well above 1/ in^3 below 6500 rpm. For example in a modern high-output Hemi, Coyote or 6 L GM vs. the same size motor 15 years ago, outputs are up 20% and fuel efficiency is up as well, (other tech improvements and hocus pocus contribute to the fuel consumption improvements).
Yep, I know all the benefits of GDI, but I just feel that we are well into the range of diminishing returns. Those fuel savings pale in the face of the ongoing need for major servicing. Technology has to be able to succeed in the real world, not just in the EPA Labs. I prefer a configuration that allows a vehicle to continue serving well into advanced old age, which has a significant effect on reducing its lifecycle carbon footprint. In my view, too many vehicle now are getting scrapped due to no longer being economically repairable. Just one guy's opinion. Peace.
@@bobmcl2406 We absolutely are into diminishing returns, no doubt about it. However the government set the targets that car manufacturers have to hit, and it's not going to happen without resorting to these techniques. I'm certain car manufacturers would be very happy to stick to older, much cheaper technology if they could get away with it.
@@bobmcl2406 True. But the Green Nanny's demand harder & harder standards...
Good news. Beginning in 2017 gas vehicles, US manufacturers solved this by adding port injectors, improving intake valve washing and giving a wider efficient operating range.
Wow!! This is one of the very few videos I have watched explaining the Engine mechanism! Subb'ed
Great video that was cool how you showed the before and after. I used the CDI Intake cleaner it definitely made a difference now after seeing this video I feel like I should spray another can or two into my Kia soul 2016 40k miles. I changed my spark plugs on my Kia soul at 40k miles. Decided to check them today Why have my new spark plugs blackened after only a month. My oil is still crystal clear I only drive locally to run errands and food shopping. Just wondering if this is normal. your channel should absolutely have millions of subscribers for sure. Use better tags and descriptions.
Instead of walnuts can i use D's nutz on my intake 2004 v8 s4 avant?
I hear the latest technology requires the BDN technique (Bofa D's nuts)!
I still think the best solution is choosing an engine with dual fuel injector, one for the cylinder , the other for the manifold. However, you are stock with a direct fuel injection system, perhaps the easiest way is switching to synthetic oil which has a lower vapor pressure and so less crankcase vapor to start the problem.
...and frequent oil changes. I go 5k between synthetic oil changes.
@@cometcal2 5k miles oil change interval seems a wast of oil and money. why not try a catch can (oil vapor condensor) for PCV.
@@henrytsai590 Use your own judgment. The idea is to change your oil before it gets too dirty. The cleaner the oil, the fewer contaminants flow into the intake manifold through the car's PCV system.
Damn that wagon is clean for 70k miles
@Bryce Czirr My Polo is at 270.000km = around 167000 miles. I'm curious about what the valves would look like (1.2 TSI - running on LPG) I think it should be good, I can get up to 6l/100km on LPG and drive 90% highway mileage
@Bryce Czirr yeah but are they living and driving in a rural country area without paved roads like where this Golf had been for 70k miles? I doubt it. 😎
The old old PCV system that dumps PCV vapors on the street was the 50s and before, PCV systems as we understand them now started in the 60s and would recirculate vapor through the intake as well. Some would put it back into the air filter housing, some would put it into the carb spacer to be drawn into the manifold. In terms of function, not much has changed since then, except perhaps the efficiency.
It is common on old performance builds to simply use a breather cap on the valve cover to vent the vapors through a filter and let them go to the atmosphere. Not the best way but certainly simpler than the modern vacuum routing, or especially the 70s and 80s vacuum routing.
I have a 2017 Ford Taurus SHO.. it has the twin turbo'd 3.5L V6... with direct injection. I use high-quality oil (Amsoil Signature Series 10W-30), a JLT catch can, CRC's Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner (which is "specifically designed/formulated for this issue), and a Snow Performance Meth kit... My valves look nearly new. Bought the car used at 42k miles with one previous owner, I'm at 62k now. I've used the CRC spray twice so far. I change oil every 10k miles, and I check my catch can regularly.
I had a Catch Can on my MK5 GTI I've owned for over 12 years. And I still had bad carbon build up when I checked it at 90k. No difference between my Catch can and a non catch can car. I'm sure I could of nit picked but not noticable. My honest Opinion would be to Run a Carbon cleaning Spray every 10k and possibly Pro shop clean the carbon at 80k and if your really anal do a professional carbon clean at 50k. But Catch Can didn't really do much for Carbon in my Opinion.
I think catch cans might not work as good as people think
Good video. I already have a catch can, now let's talk some more about meth injection 😎
Honey sandman, had me rolling on the ground with laughter 😂🤣🤣😂🤣 good one.
Rolling in the ground? Really?... Mhm.. didn't even make me laugh... :/
I have a 1969 Z-28, it's a real X33 car with a 302. For such a small motor it had a lot of cam. It's running a 4.88 gear.
The engine had a lot of valve overlap and depending on octane rating I would have to retard the timing to keep it from pre-detonation. The motor would rev really high for a street engine up to 9k RPM. I was constantly pulling pieces of broken valve springs out (I had epoxied oil drain back screens in the cyl heads) and once a year I would remove the heads and replace all of the valve springs. The pistons and cylinder domes\valves were always carbon'd up terribly.
So one day I decided to install an Edelbrock water injection setup. It did the trick! Made the mixture much more dense and the engine stopped pre-detonation.
But....I was fouling plugs like crazy and having to wipe off sooty carbon splattering off of the rear spoiler. The car is Hugger Orange with White Stripes, so the spattering was really obvious. I thought about removing the water injection but then after a couple of weeks it stopped splattering and fouling plugs.
Sometime later I pulled the heads to replace the valve springs and was amazed that the piston crowns and combustion chambers were spotless!
The heads and pistons looked like they were all freshly rebuilt.
I could tell the instant that water inj bottle went dry though!
Eventually the Vari-Jection controller failed and Edelbrock had quit making them. I went with a 400 block with main saddle half spacers and a 350 crank with a 350 main cap for the 400 bolt pattern. I used a 2 bolt truck block and had the outers splayed for more bottom end strength. I didn't need as much cam so the engine wasn't as temperamental. Don't even get me started on all the mods I had to do to the Holley 650 to make that little 302 run like it wanted.
So how come nobody makes a simple water injection setup for these direct injection engines? Sure seems like there is a market for them.
It could go right behind the Mass Air Flow sensor or speed density thingy, what ever type VW uses, and provide a dense water vapor charge to the cylinders.
Guarantee that would cure the carbon build up problem.
BTW, I hope all of that plumbing shown for the meth\water injection was all for theater. My old water injection had a small tank and like 5 wires total.
Hi again,this problem is fun to discusse.
Most cars drives short distances and carbon builds up!
If you take a long trip every year, say 2000km you blow out carbon and engine is ok!
As I told before on this site!
How about building a direct and port injected engine. I think lexus\toytoa engines do that.
some Fords have it too now, but they show it in their spec ?
Any damage in the catalytic converter after that white smoke?
Good question.
Well it’s more of cleaning and the cat wouldent really be harmed to much if anything it would be cleaning it out also
Heavy metals like palladium and platinum and rhodium are very resistant as is the ceramic core to chemicals, extended over fueling from a misfire etc is what causes the run away reaction and melts the core.
@@heavenlyhatch6219 not true. The chemicals in these type cleaners affect the catalyst in the catalytic converter and if done often enough will damage them. I would like to see in writing from the manufacturer claiming that if any catalytic converter damage did occur that they would reimburse the buyer. Problem is? They will never do that. Wonder why 🤔
Catalytic converters are covered under federal warranty for 8yrs or 80000 miles and most chemical companies will give you an additional warranty for using their products as long as your in a certain mileage range. So I would do fuel/carbon services based off of that fact alone. I know BG will cover up to 4K if done before 30k miles and up to 2k if done before 75k miles.
I've seen a dozen of intake cleaning test products... None of them work!!! At all.
Do you recommend fuel induction service ? I just did it last week hopefully it helps, not sure how often I should do it ? Great video overall 👍🏼