Used this video to fix the same problem like 2-3 years ago and now it seems to be doing it again. I looked this up again just to remember the name of the part. Thanks for the help again!
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for posting this video! My wife has our 2011 Escape as her car. Took it into our local Ford dealer for diagnosis and possible repair. First, they charged us $99 to diagnose the problem. Then, they gave her a Ford technical service bulletin describing the problem and the solution (you can find this on Google). The solution was to not only replace the resistor and to make a modification (cut out some material) from a cowling. To get to the cowling to do this, they would have to pull the dash. The estimate for the service (including the $99 diagnosis fee) was $921. Pretty amazing--close to 10% of the book value of the car!! I called the dealer and asked the service guy to check with Ford to see if they could provide any relief. If they're having to cut a cowling as part of the relief of getting this repair made, I'd say they have an engineering issue with this part of the car (glad it didn't cause any fires!). When the guy and I finally talked, he said he had called Ford, but because of the age of the car, they weren't going to consider any help. I asked why the service guy didn't put sole replacement of the resistor on the table as an option. He said he did, but maybe my wife didn't understand what he was saying. He had also told her that Ford didn't readily have the resistor in their local part network. They'd have to order it or get a third-party part: downside was that Ford provided a 2 year warranty; no warranty on the aftermarket part. By the way, the part I got from Advanced Auto Parts has a lifetime limited warranty. When I challenged him on this, he said, "Oh, all the aftermarket places have their own, different warranties, and I didn't want to complicate the conversation. At this point, I'm thinking, "Is this the way this dealer treats their female customers when they come into the dealership???" I just had to raise the point. I said, "The thought just crossed my mind, this all isn't because a woman came in for this service item, is it?" "NO, no, no, no!!!" came the reply unconvincingly. I said, "Let's see. We've got a part that failed after about 7 years. The part costs $20 (or less). How many parts could I buy for $921?" The answer is about 39, assuming I subtract the $99 diagnosis fee because I'm out that already. I think 39 blower motor resistors would suffice for the remaining time I plan to own this car. As long as we're doing math, guess how many more times I plan to take my Fords to this dealer for routine maintenance, service and tires? If you answered "Zero", you are correct!
Quick update: I just got done installing the new part. Your instructions were perfect. It probably took me a total of 10 minutes to complete the swap out and test the new part. I think the access is even better than what the video shows. This is maybe a "1 1/2" on a scale of 1 to 4 in difficulty. The warning about the screws was good. I ended up sticking the screws through the appropriate holes in the new part before I placed the new part into the slot and was very careful when I lowered it so any misalignment wouldn't pop a screw out accidently. Then I started the left screw, and when it felt partially secure, I started the right screw, and then I fastened them both down with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with an 8mm socket. Had enough room to work with that tool in the space. I did NOT disconnect the battery as I too thought that the ignition was ensuring that no power would reach this device. Thanks again, Michael! My wife's smile when "1" and "2" on the fan control worked again was great!
All Dealerships' mechanic shops are a rip off. All over charge and service is sub-par And they are sent to Ford, Chevy, Mechanic Classes. I guess you pay for their education and labor and more. Honest mechanic shops aren't charging same as the dealerships, and they're still making a profit.
@@mikepansini4904 I remember when I worked as a line mechanic at a Pontiac/Buick Dealership in 1975-76. Shop rate was about $30 and hour. I made $2.45.
Indeen man, you rock! I had the same problem, I had gone to my local Ford and they asked for $400(!!) to fix this issue. Thanks to your video I fixed it with a $35 part from Autozone and 5 minutes of my time. THANK YOU
Thank you so much for this video. Got the part today. Took only 20 min to change it. Have small hands and still found it difficult to fit them in there. Now it works and I am Happy, Happy, Happy.....
My Ford Escape blower I was thinking I had a blower switch that was going bad, It turns out this video solved my blower problem. The part cost me about $24 bucks. Great job on the video bro!
I have the exact same car, with almost the exact same mileage, and the exact same problem. Only difference is that only my positions 1 and 2 don’t work. I had a garage quote me $150.00 to repair it. Thank you sir for this video. You just saved me about $120.00. Thanks again.
Thank you, thank you. I watched your video 7 days ago. My blower stopped working on #1 n #2 like 2 years ago. Last week #3 stopped working. Only #4 was working. I watched your video and I ordered the part from Amazon for $16.99 I got it in 2 days and it took me 15 minutes to replace the part. My fingers are a little fat so it was not easy for me to take the old part out. I am a happy camper now.
Thankfully I found this video when I was trying to figure out how much this repair would cost me at my local shop. I was able to buy the part and do this myself. I saw another video that had you take the entire glove box out rather than just dropping it down which to me would not have been necessary. Biggest challenge I had was getting the screws back in but all in all this took me about 20 minutes. Well done and much appreciated!
Thanks Mike, I have now used this video twice to replace my broken resistors. I have a 2012 Escape with roughly 150K miles on it. Hope you're doing well man and thanks for the help.
My Escape has 198,000 miles on it and I will be replacing that part, tomorrow. Thanks for the video. My back and knees make it hard for me to spend much time under the dash, so every minute I save not having to muck around is a life saver. One tip about the screws, Put a small chunk of electrical tape over each screw hole on the bottom side of the part and screw the screws through them then put your part into place and start your screws as it goes into its socket. It keeps from fumbling around and dropping a screw. I worked as a mechanic from the 1960s to the eighties when I got into steel fab to make more money. Back in the 60s and 70s that part went through a hole in the firewall and you could easily reach it under the hood. I probably replaced 50 of them.
Thanks. That was easy. Part about the clip was super helpful. Thought it was going to take hours to get the dash apart. 20 min job including watching your video.
The instructions worked perfectly for our 2012 Escape. The replacement part from Autozone also had the right holes drilled out so replacement was simple
Thank you!! I just finished the job and it works fine. Your video is the perfect instruction - including paying attention to not dropping the screws. The only addition would be the need to drill out the guide holes. Simple en ough - just matched the holes with the broken part, then drilled out the plastic circles. Again - Thanks!!
Really helpful video! I followed the advice on the comment that Javier Hernandez posted and unscrewed the resistor before removing the harness. That seemed easier. Can hear the radio now!
Thank you for explaining about the tab on the plug. I couldn't get mine off of the resistor and I thought something was seriously wrong with the car. No other video that I watched talked about this.
Wow, thanks a bunch! After watching your video, my son and I were able to replace the blower resistor on his Ford Escape ourselves. The part was $22 (Walmart). We probably saved over $100 by doing it ourselves! Great job with your video.
Thank you for the step by step replacement. I thought I had to take my glove box completely out, so relieved, to just drop it down. The only thing different that we had to do is drill out two of the holes to match the old one and then it was in and installed....woohooo I no longer have to live with blasting cold air on 4. Huzzah!!
Thanks for the advice! Saved a ton of money by ordering part from Amazon, then doing the installation myself. Make sure to have a small ratchet handy with an 8mm socket or you'll be forevever trying to fit anything else in that small area. Just finished (20 minutes total time), and it works perfectly now. My 2008 Escape XLT is just like new again! First repair (other than brakes) on that 12 year old "beast".
Watched your video twice and fixed my fan...thank you so much. My 2011 escape glove box was slightly smaller than your so it was not easy to get my hands in there.but it’s all fixed now.
Thank you very much sir. The screws were almost impossible. Thanks for the heart attack part cause I was extra careful when taking out the screws. They wanted to charge me $ 75+.
Much, much, much appreciate your generosity and patient instructions. You save me a ton and I was happy to complete the project in short time even after to buy the part for $61-00 Canadian. KThank you very, very much.
Thanks for the video. Was great step by step. The tab was the most tricky part, thanks for pointing that out. Had to laugh because I hadn't watched the whole video and when I pulled out the screws and thought "this should be tricky getting these back in!" Watched the rest of the video after I finished replacing the resistor :) . Saved a bunch on this easy do it yourself with your help!
Thank you so much for this video! I have had this problem in my 2009 Mariner for over a year with only the highest setting working for AC/heat. I got the part online through Walmart for $18 and used your steps to replace. Worked right away! As long as you have the tools (and a little bit of patience because those screws are a bit tricky) you can get this done in like 20 minutes. Every day I can set my heat to 2/3 on my commute I smile. Thanks again!!!
Thank you Michael. The only problem we had was pushing down to pull up the plug. Everything else was perfect... We got it off but definitely not that way. VERY difficult!
Thank you so much for the details, it makes a big difference. As a rule I usually done work on my cars but with this video I save over a hundred bucks! Thanks again
I could NOT get the harness off and was just about to give up. Then I thought to read more of the comments and found the info from @dooleyfan that referenced the fact that you were able to remove the resistor card first and then take off the harness. It was tricky finding an angle to get the resistor card out; it looked like there was an additional hold screw for the harness cord and I was about to take that off, but finally finagled the card out. From there it was simple. Thanks so much to both you and @dooleyfan!
Thanks for the video! I remember building these entire units, and we would always have resistor problems when we’d run our final tests on them before shipping them out. I can’t count the amount of times we had to replace resistors before shipping 😂.
I tried everything to get the plug out and it wouldn't budge. So I unscrewed the whole assembly first, then had a much easier time with the plug. Regardless, this video was perfect. Thank you.
Just changed my resistor ..last one was 4 years ago. The new one (BWD RU1133) worked for 2 days ..then died allowing only setting number 4 to work. A pain in da butt to take out . I would highly recommend that you guys mention in the video the best tools to use. I need to find a mini socket set . Funny thing my blower still works on setting 4 after I pulled the resistor . Is this normal . Are there fuses a person should also check . THANK YOU
It is normal for the fan to work on 4 without the resistor because it is a safety function to make sure you can still defrost your windshield during the winter or use max AC in the summer.
Thanks for the video. I used the socket side of an 8mm wrench. It was easier to fit that in the small space & it reduced the chance of me dropping it in the black hole beneath all that.
Hey my name is Óscar thanks for your video. I need to know something. I have a 2012 Ford escape limited 6 cilinder and the heater do not work when is in parking but if I'm in the road IT heat. Do you think IT coud be the same problem.
Honestly, sounds to me like it could possibly be a clogged heater core. When you’re at idle, the engine speed is slower and circulation of the coolant is slower. When you’re driving, engine speed gets higher and sends more pressure through the coolant system. If there is a slight clog in the heater core, the coolant is able to move through it once the engine is running higher. So no, the fan speed resistor is most likely not the issue from what I’m reading.
Thank you. I did lose my screw when trying to put it back, it went forward. I may try to retrieve it with a magnet. If not, I may buy another screw. The blower works, though.
I wish I found and watched this video first before any others on this issue before I spent a lifetime trying to disconnect that wiring harness. Easy job once that's done.
None of my fan speeds work, and occasionally the fans will work (don't remember if it was only 4 speed when they do kick on) when I restart the car. Could this be the same issue?
I just bought this car yesterday. It has this problem. I was pretty sure it was this switch. I just didn't know where they put it in this car. Also it's not really that rare. I think they build the parts to fail so dealers can charge big money for small fixes. Thanks!
Did it also cause the fan speed to speed and slow down over and over? Sometimes it barely works on lower settings and then goes normal on higher settings, but speed goes up and down
It could possibly cause that. Normally it only works on the highest setting as a default because if the resistors bad, there is nothing slowing down the amount of current to the motor. Therefore, full amount current = full speed on fan.
Thank you for the video I hope it helps me. I have the same problem with my escape. I do sincerely appreciate you sharing this information that's very kind of you. I wish you well God bless be safe
I have a 2017 Ford Escape S/2.5L....I have to replace the fan speed resistor (blower motor resistor). Videos on u-tube show how to do it up to year 2012. Can anyone tell me where it is located on a 2017
It looks like it has been damaged by leaking desiccate from the A/C accumulator/dryer. VERY common, and almost always related to the Blower Motor Resistor issue. The system builds up excessive pressure on the high side and then the rad fan starts running at full speed all the time. Always a good preventative measure is to replace the dryer, they revised it with improved desiccate bag, before running into the even more common, $4000 A/c rebuild.
Quick question: we changed the resistor twice, and it is still not working. We hear the motor, we feel a faint draft, but even with the new resistor there is no power on any setting. Any ideas what the issue could be before I pay $$$$ to have a shop do a quick fix/replacement of an inexpensive part?
thanks. i did mine. i struggled getting the screws out---- i went to hf and bought a 1/4 socket set-- but still had to have my 10 year old son help me. i just dont fit under the dash.
I have the same problem with my 2008 ford escape and after i change it it was working for couple of weeks and i still have the same problem again...any advice please
So mine blower works when it wants to. When it does work it works fully. But when it doesn't work no power at all comes from it. Could it be the resistor?
I know this guy is experiencing zero powe on one, two and three, with power on four. I simply have lesssss power on one and two but correct power to three and four. Is this the same part? Or would changing it leave me with the same issue?
what if I had this happen a year ago (March 2019) and got the part, installed it and its worked perfectly since. Until this morning where it's broken again. Like...why would the new part fail so quickly? Or is that indicative of another issue...
I have replaced mine once. But I was being lazy at the last time I took the SUV in for other service and told them to look at it. They wanted $374 for taht job...no lie teh quoted $374 for "REPLACE BLOWER RESISTER, CONNECTOR, and HARDWARE. What? Uh, no, w are no paying that. Its $15.95 part and 15 minutes of work. Last time I sprayed the resister PCB with water=proof nano-Coating, so it last 6 years. This time i bought some UV Cure Solder Mask so I can put a 2nd coat over the PCB, these PCB cards sit in a damp area of the vehicle which is why they corrode so easily. I'm hoping the 2nd coating (or 3rd coat) of solder mask will keep the whole unit sealed longer against the elements.
My friend was so happy coz he save a lot of money..first time it happen he brought it to the shop and wont u believe that they charge him $$$800 for that....not knowing that is just a simple problem..thanks mha men.. Can u help us how to find out whats going on on the same vehicle that has high beam problem. One side not working. Bulbs are ok Fuses are ok You think its the wiring problem?
Take the two bolts out first pull plug and resistor strait up and out then unplug the resistor do not touch the new resistor board with your hands you will leave oil on it and it will burn and kill the resistor.
Just swapped this out on my '08 Escape with 170k miles. Every speed but 1 worked, which bothered me enough to do this. 1/4 inch ratchet with an 8mm socket. And this job is alot easier if you're left-handed too, which I'm not, lol.
Used this video to fix the same problem like 2-3 years ago and now it seems to be doing it again. I looked this up again just to remember the name of the part. Thanks for the help again!
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for posting this video! My wife has our 2011 Escape as her car. Took it into our local Ford dealer for diagnosis and possible repair. First, they charged us $99 to diagnose the problem. Then, they gave her a Ford technical service bulletin describing the problem and the solution (you can find this on Google). The solution was to not only replace the resistor and to make a modification (cut out some material) from a cowling. To get to the cowling to do this, they would have to pull the dash. The estimate for the service (including the $99 diagnosis fee) was $921. Pretty amazing--close to 10% of the book value of the car!! I called the dealer and asked the service guy to check with Ford to see if they could provide any relief. If they're having to cut a cowling as part of the relief of getting this repair made, I'd say they have an engineering issue with this part of the car (glad it didn't cause any fires!). When the guy and I finally talked, he said he had called Ford, but because of the age of the car, they weren't going to consider any help. I asked why the service guy didn't put sole replacement of the resistor on the table as an option. He said he did, but maybe my wife didn't understand what he was saying. He had also told her that Ford didn't readily have the resistor in their local part network. They'd have to order it or get a third-party part: downside was that Ford provided a 2 year warranty; no warranty on the aftermarket part. By the way, the part I got from Advanced Auto Parts has a lifetime limited warranty. When I challenged him on this, he said, "Oh, all the aftermarket places have their own, different warranties, and I didn't want to complicate the conversation. At this point, I'm thinking, "Is this the way this dealer treats their female customers when they come into the dealership???" I just had to raise the point. I said, "The thought just crossed my mind, this all isn't because a woman came in for this service item, is it?" "NO, no, no, no!!!" came the reply unconvincingly. I said, "Let's see. We've got a part that failed after about 7 years. The part costs $20 (or less). How many parts could I buy for $921?" The answer is about 39, assuming I subtract the $99 diagnosis fee because I'm out that already. I think 39 blower motor resistors would suffice for the remaining time I plan to own this car. As long as we're doing math, guess how many more times I plan to take my Fords to this dealer for routine maintenance, service and tires? If you answered "Zero", you are correct!
Quick update: I just got done installing the new part. Your instructions were perfect. It probably took me a total of 10 minutes to complete the swap out and test the new part. I think the access is even better than what the video shows. This is maybe a "1 1/2" on a scale of 1 to 4 in difficulty. The warning about the screws was good. I ended up sticking the screws through the appropriate holes in the new part before I placed the new part into the slot and was very careful when I lowered it so any misalignment wouldn't pop a screw out accidently. Then I started the left screw, and when it felt partially secure, I started the right screw, and then I fastened them both down with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with an 8mm socket. Had enough room to work with that tool in the space. I did NOT disconnect the battery as I too thought that the ignition was ensuring that no power would reach this device.
Thanks again, Michael! My wife's smile when "1" and "2" on the fan control worked again was great!
Dealers suck! all they know how to do is charge $100/hr shop rates and up charge there own parts.
All Dealerships' mechanic shops are a rip off. All over charge and service is sub-par And they are sent to Ford, Chevy, Mechanic Classes. I guess you pay for their education and labor and more. Honest mechanic shops aren't charging same as the dealerships, and they're still making a profit.
@@mikepansini4904 I remember when I worked as a line mechanic at a Pontiac/Buick Dealership in 1975-76. Shop rate was about $30 and hour. I made $2.45.
Thanks for this video. The screws were unbelievably difficult to take out, but the job got done.
Indeen man, you rock! I had the same problem, I had gone to my local Ford and they asked for $400(!!) to fix this issue. Thanks to your video I fixed it with a $35 part from Autozone and 5 minutes of my time. THANK YOU
Thank you so much for this video. Got the part today. Took only 20 min to change it. Have small hands and still found it difficult to fit them in there. Now it works and I am Happy, Happy, Happy.....
My Ford Escape blower
I was thinking I had a blower switch that was going bad, It turns out this video solved my blower problem. The part cost me about $24 bucks. Great job on the video bro!
I have the exact same car, with almost the exact same mileage, and the exact same problem. Only difference is that only my positions 1 and 2 don’t work. I had a garage quote me $150.00 to repair it. Thank you sir for this video. You just saved me about $120.00. Thanks again.
Thank you, thank you. I watched your video 7 days ago. My blower stopped working on #1 n #2 like 2 years ago. Last week #3 stopped working. Only #4 was working. I watched your video and I ordered the part from Amazon for $16.99 I got it in 2 days and it took me 15 minutes to replace the part. My fingers are a little fat so it was not easy for me to take the old part out. I am a happy camper now.
Thankfully I found this video when I was trying to figure out how much this repair would cost me at my local shop. I was able to buy the part and do this myself. I saw another video that had you take the entire glove box out rather than just dropping it down which to me would not have been necessary. Biggest challenge I had was getting the screws back in but all in all this took me about 20 minutes. Well done and much appreciated!
Thanks Mike, I have now used this video twice to replace my broken resistors. I have a 2012 Escape with roughly 150K miles on it. Hope you're doing well man and thanks for the help.
My Escape has 198,000 miles on it and I will be replacing that part, tomorrow. Thanks for the video. My back and knees make it hard for me to spend much time under the dash, so every minute I save not having to muck around is a life saver. One tip about the screws, Put a small chunk of electrical tape over each screw hole on the bottom side of the part and screw the screws through them then put your part into place and start your screws as it goes into its socket. It keeps from fumbling around and dropping a screw. I worked as a mechanic from the 1960s to the eighties when I got into steel fab to make more money. Back in the 60s and 70s that part went through a hole in the firewall and you could easily reach it under the hood. I probably replaced 50 of them.
Thanks. That was easy. Part about the clip was super helpful.
Thought it was going to take hours to get the dash apart. 20 min job including watching your video.
The instructions worked perfectly for our 2012 Escape. The replacement part from Autozone also had the right holes drilled out so replacement was simple
Thanks for including the socket size. Easiest repair job ever.
Thank you!! I just finished the job and it works fine. Your video is the perfect instruction - including paying attention to not dropping the screws. The only addition would be the need to drill out the guide holes. Simple en
ough - just matched the holes with the broken part, then drilled out the plastic circles. Again - Thanks!!
Really helpful video! I followed the advice on the comment that Javier Hernandez posted and unscrewed the resistor before removing the harness. That seemed easier. Can hear the radio now!
This was the best video to watch for replacing the blower motor resistor for Ford or Mariners 2008-12.
Thank you for explaining about the tab on the plug. I couldn't get mine off of the resistor and I thought something was seriously wrong with the car. No other video that I watched talked about this.
Thank you very much!! My blower fan is running now 1-2-3-4 !! I'm so excited , Thanks again :)
Wow, thanks a bunch! After watching your video, my son and I were able to replace the blower resistor on his Ford Escape ourselves. The part was $22 (Walmart). We probably saved over $100 by doing it ourselves! Great job with your video.
Thank you for the step by step replacement. I thought I had to take my glove box completely out, so relieved, to just drop it down. The only thing different that we had to do is drill out two of the holes to match the old one and then it was in and installed....woohooo I no longer have to live with blasting cold air on 4. Huzzah!!
By now you have probably hit all the repairs that come after that lol, never ending after a certian time, thank god for youtube video's
Thanks so much! I ordered the part from Amazon and just replaced it! No time in the shop and under $20~
Thanks for the advice! Saved a ton of money by ordering part from Amazon, then doing the installation myself. Make sure to have a small ratchet handy with an 8mm socket or you'll be forevever trying to fit anything else in that small area. Just finished (20 minutes total time), and it works perfectly now. My 2008 Escape XLT is just like new again! First repair (other than brakes) on that 12 year old "beast".
Watched your video twice and fixed my fan...thank you so much. My 2011 escape glove box was slightly smaller than your so it was not easy to get my hands in there.but it’s all fixed now.
Thank you very much sir. The screws were almost impossible. Thanks for the heart attack part cause I was extra careful when taking out the screws. They wanted to charge me $ 75+.
Much, much, much appreciate your generosity and patient instructions. You save me a ton and I was happy to complete the project in short time even after to buy the part for $61-00 Canadian. KThank you very, very much.
You made that easy and less intimidating than doing it on my own. Thanks for the video. I just did it myself and it really was that easy.
Thanks for the video. Was great step by step. The tab was the most tricky part, thanks for pointing that out. Had to laugh because I hadn't watched the whole video and when I pulled out the screws and thought "this should be tricky getting these back in!" Watched the rest of the video after I finished replacing the resistor :) . Saved a bunch on this easy do it yourself with your help!
Thank you so much for this video! I have had this problem in my 2009 Mariner for over a year with only the highest setting working for AC/heat. I got the part online through Walmart for $18 and used your steps to replace. Worked right away! As long as you have the tools (and a little bit of patience because those screws are a bit tricky) you can get this done in like 20 minutes. Every day I can set my heat to 2/3 on my commute I smile. Thanks again!!!
FF 5:46 real video starts
Thanks for the excellent video! So glad I was able to do this repair easily myself for only $30!!
Simple change of a resistor and Ford charges $65 / HR + over priced part
Thank you Michael. The only problem we had was pushing down to pull up the plug. Everything else was perfect... We got it off but definitely not that way. VERY difficult!
Hi i got the same problem, i am not able to remove the plug , can you share how did you do that
Thank you verry much .. I have the same problem. Tomorrow I'm going to buy the part & replace it myself. Thanks Again
Thanks Michael, I performed this task today. I ordered the part from Amazon for $28 Canadian Pesos
Thanks! This video helped me out a ton and took all the guesswork out it! I had the resistor pulled in 2 minutes! Better than other videos for sure.
This was the first problem I had on my escape. It is also my first car. So I was have some trouble even finding it thank you so much
Thank you so much for the details, it makes a big difference. As a rule I usually done work on my cars but with this video I save over a hundred bucks! Thanks again
Thanks for doing this video ,my 2012 resistor just went out! Got the part followed your procedure and I have it fixed!! Thank you again!😊
Thanks for this. You saved my dad 200$
Thanks for the video my resistor has gone out three times and this time I will replace it myself ....!!
Thanks for the video, it helped out, I found it easier to remove the Resistor card first then disconnect the harness. Hope this helps someone else.
Great idea! I followed your suggestion and it was easy to remove the harness.
I could NOT get the harness off and was just about to give up. Then I thought to read more of the comments and found the info from @dooleyfan that referenced the fact that you were able to remove the resistor card first and then take off the harness. It was tricky finding an angle to get the resistor card out; it looked like there was an additional hold screw for the harness cord and I was about to take that off, but finally finagled the card out. From there it was simple. Thanks so much to both you and @dooleyfan!
Good job! In Puerto Rico that parts cost around $66.00. Time:1:27 am
Thanks for the video! I remember building these entire units, and we would always have resistor problems when we’d run our final tests on them before shipping them out. I can’t count the amount of times we had to replace resistors before shipping 😂.
I tried everything to get the plug out and it wouldn't budge. So I unscrewed the whole assembly first, then had a much easier time with the plug. Regardless, this video was perfect. Thank you.
Thanks for the help! Just saved me a lot of frustration. Fixing it now.
You saved me some BIG $$$$ with your detailed video.
👍
Just changed my resistor ..last one was 4 years ago. The new one (BWD RU1133) worked for 2 days ..then died allowing only setting number 4 to work. A pain in da butt to take out . I would highly recommend that you guys mention in the video the best tools to use. I need to find a mini socket set . Funny thing my blower still works on setting 4 after I pulled the resistor . Is this normal . Are there fuses a person should also check . THANK YOU
It is normal for the fan to work on 4 without the resistor because it is a safety function to make sure you can still defrost your windshield during the winter or use max AC in the summer.
Thanks for the video. I used the socket side of an 8mm wrench. It was easier to fit that in the small space & it reduced the chance of me dropping it in the black hole beneath all that.
Hey my name is Óscar thanks for your video. I need to know something. I have a 2012 Ford escape limited 6 cilinder and the heater do not work when is in parking but if I'm in the road IT heat. Do you think IT coud be the same problem.
Honestly, sounds to me like it could possibly be a clogged heater core. When you’re at idle, the engine speed is slower and circulation of the coolant is slower. When you’re driving, engine speed gets higher and sends more pressure through the coolant system. If there is a slight clog in the heater core, the coolant is able to move through it once the engine is running higher. So no, the fan speed resistor is most likely not the issue from what I’m reading.
Appreciate the video. Just replaced the resistor on my 2011 Escape.
Thank you. I did lose my screw when trying to put it back, it went forward. I may try to retrieve it with a magnet. If not, I may buy another screw. The blower works, though.
great video! My
dealer wanted to charge me over 500$ excluding labor and tax to replace it.
Just wanted to say thanks! I follwed this and changed it quick and easy.
Mine went bad an I've been told it's common after 100gs that the resistors go bad on 08'-2012 Escape. It's an easy fix! Just Do It!
O...M...G.. can't thank you enough for making this tutorial, it worked out great!
I wish I found and watched this video first before any others on this issue before I spent a lifetime trying to disconnect that wiring harness. Easy job once that's done.
Thanks Michael! Great video, had problems with the screws but once done ok!
I have a 2012 ford escape 3.0. I have 350,000 miles. It still has good power no major repairs just minor.
Our Escape is doing same exact thing so thanks for the tutorial!!!
None of my fan speeds work, and occasionally the fans will work (don't remember if it was only 4 speed when they do kick on) when I restart the car. Could this be the same issue?
Had the same issue with my Escape, thanks!
Please help does this drains the bettery
Super easy! Thanks for the video 👍
I just bought this car yesterday. It has this problem. I was pretty sure it was this switch. I just didn't know where they put it in this car. Also it's not really that rare. I think they build the parts to fail so dealers can charge big money for small fixes. Thanks!
I have a 2009 ford escape - where do I get the resistor blower? and how do I know which one to buy?
Did it also cause the fan speed to speed and slow down over and over? Sometimes it barely works on lower settings and then goes normal on higher settings, but speed goes up and down
It could possibly cause that. Normally it only works on the highest setting as a default because if the resistors bad, there is nothing slowing down the amount of current to the motor. Therefore, full amount current = full speed on fan.
MichaelAdamsRocks hmm, yeah that makes. Think it’s just the blower going bad or could it be something small and easy?
Thank you for the video I hope it helps me. I have the same problem with my escape. I do sincerely appreciate you sharing this information that's very kind of you. I wish you well God bless be safe
I have a 2017 Ford Escape S/2.5L....I have to replace the fan speed resistor (blower motor resistor). Videos on u-tube show how to do it up to year 2012. Can anyone tell me where it is located on a 2017
Thank u for ur video. Greatly appreciated 👍👍 .. I have to do this myself tomorrow...
It looks like it has been damaged by leaking desiccate from the A/C accumulator/dryer. VERY common, and almost always related to the Blower Motor Resistor issue. The system builds up excessive pressure on the high side and then the rad fan starts running at full speed all the time. Always a good preventative measure is to replace the dryer, they revised it with improved desiccate bag, before running into the even more common, $4000 A/c rebuild.
Quick question: we changed the resistor twice, and it is still not working. We hear the motor, we feel a faint draft, but even with the new resistor there is no power on any setting. Any ideas what the issue could be before I pay $$$$ to have a shop do a quick fix/replacement of an inexpensive part?
What's the n part # ?- I here some are manual control or automatic 4 season
I don’t remember, but this is manual climate
thanks. i did mine. i struggled getting the screws out---- i went to hf and bought a 1/4 socket set-- but still had to have my 10 year old son help me. i just dont fit under the dash.
The dealership said 300$ and would put new cabin air filter and reseal what is there to seal?
Fixed in 5 minutes! Thanks!
I have the same problem with my 2008 ford escape and after i change it it was working for couple of weeks and i still have the same problem again...any advice please
Great video!
Thanks... btw have you ever had power steering problems with that model? I think there is a recall on the servos
I have not actually. Seems to still be working fine.
So mine blower works when it wants to. When it does work it works fully. But when it doesn't work no power at all comes from it. Could it be the resistor?
I know this guy is experiencing zero powe on one, two and three, with power on four. I simply have lesssss power on one and two but correct power to three and four. Is this the same part? Or would changing it leave me with the same issue?
Michael, thanx for the instruction video. Just awesome.
John
Thanks very much, your instructions were excellent!
Almost the exact mileage and my Dad's car needed the exact same (resistor) Ford Wscape 2011 Job Security??
Thanks man that helped a lot 😊
It would have been fun to take the car to a dealer or some repair shop to see what they have to say !
Does anybody know if this will work on the 2001-2007 models? I have this exact problem on my 2006 Escape. Thanks
what if I had this happen a year ago (March 2019) and got the part, installed it and its worked perfectly since. Until this morning where it's broken again. Like...why would the new part fail so quickly? Or is that indicative of another issue...
These parts are apparently made super cheap poor quality. Which brand did you buy? I've had a few fail myself
I have replaced mine once. But I was being lazy at the last time I took the SUV in for other service and told them to look at it. They wanted $374 for taht job...no lie teh quoted $374 for "REPLACE BLOWER RESISTER, CONNECTOR, and HARDWARE. What? Uh, no, w are no paying that. Its $15.95 part and 15 minutes of work. Last time I sprayed the resister PCB with water=proof nano-Coating, so it last 6 years. This time i bought some UV Cure Solder Mask so I can put a 2nd coat over the PCB, these PCB cards sit in a damp area of the vehicle which is why they corrode so easily. I'm hoping the 2nd coating (or 3rd coat) of solder mask will keep the whole unit sealed longer against the elements.
Love it! Thanks so much for the video! Helpful tips !
My friend was so happy coz he save a lot of money..first time it happen he brought it to the shop and wont u believe that they charge him $$$800 for that....not knowing that is just a simple problem..thanks mha men..
Can u help us how to find out whats going on on the same vehicle that has high beam problem.
One side not working.
Bulbs are ok
Fuses are ok
You think its the wiring problem?
Could either be a wiring issue or possibly a bad bulb socket I’d say.
Would this work for Ford escape 2018??
My husband fixed my 2008 Escape with this problem in about 5 minutes. BTW, i have 120k miles on it.
Take the two bolts out first pull plug and resistor strait up and out then unplug the resistor do not touch the new resistor board with your hands you will leave oil on it and it will burn and kill the resistor.
Nice Job!!!
Please, what is the part number for the resistor...Thanks
My car is doing that now .how much did that part cost ?
When I got this one, it was around $25
@@MichaelAdamsRocks thank you for letting me know
Hmmmm mine works on 2-3-4 but the fan doesn’t come on level 1.
I guess I'm quite lucky, my 2010 escape has about 120k miles with original resistor
superpanda 1022 I have a 2010 and mine just went at 140k. Part is only 15$ tho
Just swapped this out on my '08 Escape with 170k miles. Every speed but 1 worked, which bothered me enough to do this. 1/4 inch ratchet with an 8mm socket. And this job is alot easier if you're left-handed too, which I'm not, lol.
Thanks for the upload!