Ha. I'm one of those Ford guys talking to the screen saying it's the switch housing! Just last week we had an 09 Escape no crank, that was a wholesale car, going to auction. I told the young tech(I'm an old advisor) what to do, but he didn't listen & we never did the wholesale check. Truck came to take it, so I grabbed a screw driver & popped the top trim off & just pushed the housing in, against the rod ,& started it.BTW, I'm really enjoying your videos, very informative!
I know you guys started slowly doing short videos and everytime is getting better and better, please just continue creating this kind of videos. Very informative and also I love that he keep it very interesting. There are some channel out there that you skip the video more than what you watch because they are very slow. Please don't stop doing videos.
Enjoyed the video! A quick and easy test on these Escapes is,while turning the key to the crank position,push the key In towards the column. It will start 95% of the time,letting you know it’s the lock cylinder housing.
I love thorough diagnostic process as always. Yes, it ended up being something simple to some, I’m sure it’s been overlooked by many techs...But I think showing the correct procedure, for breaking down the different parts of the circuit and testing the various components, was necessary to show the correct methods for tracking down an issue like this. And a great representation of what is required to complete a quality diag..The lock cylinder very well could have been any one of those parts you tested in a different scenario. So many great explanations and techniques. I’m sure this video will help a lot if people! The great content is much appreciated, keep them videos coming and keep up the great work brother ✅
Great video. I could watch the professor walk though the diagnostic process all day. Few things get my hyped like seeing you guys post a new video. Keep it up 👍.
Great, quick and comprehensive diagnostic process. Silver bullets are great but if you don't know how to do the testing to get there, then what happens on the next car with no silver bullet that has a similar problem? You'll be lost. Knowing how to do the testing and understanding fundamentals will get you to the problem every time. Thanks for the videos and keep up the great work!
Greetings from Germany, again, you regale us with your in depth knowledge combined with your clear & fun way to explain vital successions of probabilities/diagnosis methods. Thank you for all of your hands-on teaching for us non-mechanics, who through your teachings can understand electrical/mechanical/computer-based intricacies, improving our understanding for automobiles (and other related products) and thusly improving our ways to communicate issues we have noticed in a more efficient manner to automobile technicians. With kind regards TH
If I had a dime for every Escape lock housing I've replaced...I actually developed a simple deadly quick test to see if it's in the housing. Twist the key to start and in most cases you can literally push the key towards the steering column hard in the start position and it would usually crank up. Dead simple test for a no crank no start Escape with a good battery.
Great video, like your diagnostic approach, all fuses all types I always check with a multi-meter continuity check just to be 100% sure of the fuse condition, as a industry professional, a full systems scan or multiple modules scan, gives you a Broad diagnostic outlook of the vehicle.
The only reason I don't like to use the multi meter or a power probe is I want to load the circuit a little bit. I've seen a multi meter read good voltage and a power probe do the same but as soon as you put a load on it the voltage drops badly. This happen because eof a voltage drop somewhere in the circuit. I'm not a big resistance guy, in my experience it can get you in trouble. Let me know if you like to see a video where I can prove that out. Thanks for the comment. 👍👍
I’ve changed enough of those ignition housings over the years that I knew what the problem was before I even clicked on the video. 😂 Matter of fact I just did one a few months ago on my sister in laws Mazda tribute.
Thanks for sharing an extraordinary amount of detail on the process involved . You are very good at bringing us viewers / students along the learning curve to developing skill .
I just want to say you did perfectly here, and just because a Ford guy may know, isn't always the way to run and just change a part. I too am going through it right now with the 2011 and i am reviewing everything you did, for my issue. Mines showing a click, and drain on the dash when i turn the key. Like a bad battery.
great job! My observation during the troubleshooting.... once the "starter guy" turned the ignition key to ON and you were able to start the car, at that point it was evident that it wasn't any connections at C211 or the diode. So it could only be the ignition switch or something else before that, and you found it.. I guess my point is, you didn't need to spend the extra time chasing the diagram towards the starter once you had started the vehicle with the "switched relay". Good job!
Loved it! I was throwing out solutions before even diagnosing my problem. Tested my battery and it’s at 6v. Hopefully that’s all it is if not I will refer back to this!
@28:36 had your test lamp been on Bat +, it would have started!!! I've wired in many a push button for customer's as an alternative!!! Great diagnostic as usual!!!
Very very helpful. Just fixed a blown fuse on a 2014 escape on the buse bar in front of battery. My fault because I didn't disconnect battery when I had BCM panel apart under the glove box.
made the same mistake the first time I came across the ford lock housing not fully engaging the ignition switch. But you live and learn thats the most important part.
So glad to see your new student😍 Really appreciate it, Thanks for sharing this one Professor😍 I don't know what was the issue on your last video, I just couldn't get my comment added tried multiple times, maybe an error Stay Safe Guy's😍
Good video. Was Very detailed so good drag. But I know a guy from MI that could have called it in 2 mins. Gotta give Chris some love. See this issue like every two weeks. But like your drag process and no guess Like it !
Great video as always. I like how methodical you are in your diagnosis process. How about showing us Joe Caci's PWM box and his 3 phase tester box in action some time. Thanks.
We humans don't typically follow our own rules, you tested one fuse at the fuse box which MIGHT mean nothing if a wire is broken or a bad terminal, then on the next fuse you mentioned going to the component for the test, the better test, get the fuse, the terminals, and the wire all along the route in one go. To me, a fuse test only proves the fuse is not blown and that whatever supplies its voltage is also good, nothing else is proven. We techs need to create our own rules to follow to maximize a test and our time, we ought to follow our own custom rules like a robot, make updates as we learn a better way to do a specific task as the one may not work for all scenarios. We all know not to follow the trouble tree from SI but we can create our own chart based on real-world experience. Another GND adaptor for inside the cabin can be an adaptor from the cigar lighter. In this case, I have no problem with adding in some testing for educational purposes by cutting down on some steps with the added explanation of the longer route would be nice to help the younger troops to not start out at the bottom of the learning curve. Our hard copy library, print out the schematics, make notes on the paper, and file that away for the next time we get a similar Ford no crank diag, use this experience, read the notes created and maybe our own silver bullet will be the first test completed, viola. If not then split the electrical circuit in half as a noted easy test point learned from past annotated repair attempts. I don't see any YT guys pulling out old notes, I am aware that IVAN from PHAD keeps notes as he has a bad memory and I also know that he studies up on tomorrow's work in advance so he might have a hard copy library at the house?? I watched a popular tech here on YT do some fuse and power supply testing to some components and totally screwed it up as he was making a video on an actual job and to help DIYers but screwed the pooch big time, AND THEN, AND THEN right near the end of the video, claimed in public that he needed to contact the owner to get another hour diag time approved, I let into his ass in the comments big time and I like his channel a lot but damn, if you are not a teacher, then don't teach on a real paying job PLS. The portion of the diagnosis that was the final call was the mechanical portion of the key cylinder, I believe that the rod was sticking out of the end of the cylinder that has to interlock into the electrical switch assy, but you did not video the rod not turning as the last bit of the diag to show the young troops the root cause of the problem. Thanks for the extended diag of probably the entire circuit. When it comes to changing the wrong part, we always must ask ourselves, "Before I order the switch, and it does not fix the problem, what else can go wrong?" Even if we jumped the gun, I would hope that many techs would bench-test the switch before ordering a new one, or simply use a screwdriver as you have done to start the engine, anybody who does not at least try this, has never tried to steal their Uncles' car before, for the viewers that watched this video, I know they have learned a lot.
I've got a 2015 Escape and it randomly stopped cranking. Brand new starter, battery is reading 12.5V. All fuses are good starter relay is good. The busbar in front of battery was replaced along with 2 blown fuses on it. I get power on the input pin with starter relay out but vehicle still doesn't try to crank. Any suggestions I'm at a loss 😪
I've been having the ignition problems with my ford escape for a long time. sometimes, it will start by wrapping some electrical tape around the end of the lock cylinder. when I try to start it by pulling out the ignition switch, with the key in the lock cylinder for PATS, it still won't start and I don't understand why. even with a brand new ignition switch. I can't figure out why.
I'll never buy another Ford again after dealing with these faulty ignition components. I can't imagine how much money they've made off that issue alone.
30:35 - About the headlights coming up again. Could it be the headlight switch is set to Auto and the sunload sensor is automatically causing the light to come on?
you know if i want my headlamps ON i know how to turn them on. its so sad you have to connect a charger to diag a car with a good battery. I do not own a vehicle with automatic on headlamps, but i also don't own a vehicle that is push to start, my vehicles have throttle cables to the throttle body life is so easy. its like now you cannot buy a vehicle without a radio they won't run without a radio. the radio shouldn't have anything to do with the starting and running of a vehicle. iknow several F150 trucks that wont switch off unless you raise the hood and unplug the ABS module. ABS should have nothing in common with the engine. think how much easier and cheaper diag times would be with out radios and ABS
Ain't the truth, Pine Hollow auto diagnostic had a Mercedes no crank no start no comm due to rear window washer leak that took down the Can Bus signal, that's insane!!!
You can always turn the auto headlights off and operate them manually. But even if you leave them on, they still turn themselves off on their own. As for the ABS system, other systems besides ABS use the data from the tone wheel sensors. The only solution would be to put more than one sensor on each wheel. That would be a complicated mess, and more things to break.
These kind of blow by blow diagnostic videos are gold. And thumbs up for the next generation tagging along!
Ha. I'm one of those Ford guys talking to the screen saying it's the switch housing! Just last week we had an 09 Escape no crank, that was a wholesale car, going to auction. I told the young tech(I'm an old advisor) what to do, but he didn't listen & we never did the wholesale check. Truck came to take it, so I grabbed a screw driver & popped the top trim off & just pushed the housing in, against the rod ,& started it.BTW, I'm really enjoying your videos, very informative!
I know you guys started slowly doing short videos and everytime is getting better and better, please just continue creating this kind of videos. Very informative and also I love that he keep it very interesting. There are some channel out there that you skip the video more than what you watch because they are very slow. Please don't stop doing videos.
Enjoyed the video! A quick and easy test on these Escapes is,while turning the key to the crank position,push the key In towards the column. It will start 95% of the time,letting you know it’s the lock cylinder housing.
I love thorough diagnostic process as always. Yes, it ended up being something simple to some, I’m sure it’s been overlooked by many techs...But I think showing the correct procedure, for breaking down the different parts of the circuit and testing the various components, was necessary to show the correct methods for tracking down an issue like this. And a great representation of what is required to complete a quality diag..The lock cylinder very well could have been any one of those parts you tested in a different scenario. So many great explanations and techniques. I’m sure this video will help a lot if people! The great content is much appreciated, keep them videos coming and keep up the great work brother ✅
Great video. I could watch the professor walk though the diagnostic process all day. Few things get my hyped like seeing you guys post a new video. Keep it up 👍.
Great video. I love the follow through on the diag. Good practice to test hunches/experiences - Cars love to prove me wrong when I get a little lazy.
Great, quick and comprehensive diagnostic process. Silver bullets are great but if you don't know how to do the testing to get there, then what happens on the next car with no silver bullet that has a similar problem? You'll be lost. Knowing how to do the testing and understanding fundamentals will get you to the problem every time. Thanks for the videos and keep up the great work!
Greetings from Germany,
again, you regale us with your in depth knowledge combined with your clear & fun way to explain vital successions of probabilities/diagnosis methods.
Thank you for all of your hands-on teaching for us non-mechanics, who through your teachings can understand electrical/mechanical/computer-based intricacies, improving our understanding for automobiles (and other related products) and thusly improving our ways to communicate issues we have noticed in a more efficient manner to automobile technicians.
With kind regards
TH
Yes many know issue with ignition lock cylinder. But you showed true drag which is great. All your videos are great. Keep it going.
If I had a dime for every Escape lock housing I've replaced...I actually developed a simple deadly quick test to see if it's in the housing. Twist the key to start and in most cases you can literally push the key towards the steering column hard in the start position and it would usually crank up. Dead simple test for a no crank no start Escape with a good battery.
Great video, like your diagnostic approach, all fuses all types I always check with a multi-meter continuity check just to be 100% sure of the fuse condition, as a industry professional, a full systems scan or multiple modules scan, gives you a Broad diagnostic outlook of the vehicle.
The only reason I don't like to use the multi meter or a power probe is I want to load the circuit a little bit. I've seen a multi meter read good voltage and a power probe do the same but as soon as you put a load on it the voltage drops badly. This happen because eof a voltage drop somewhere in the circuit. I'm not a big resistance guy, in my experience it can get you in trouble. Let me know if you like to see a video where I can prove that out. Thanks for the comment. 👍👍
Sherwood #4 is a handsome young man that we can all say is a wonderful young man for helping out in the garage during his summer break. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Great having a tech like this showing us A-Z -- great job !!
Test, Not guess. Great job, video
I’ve changed enough of those ignition housings over the years that I knew what the problem was before I even clicked on the video. 😂 Matter of fact I just did one a few months ago on my sister in laws Mazda tribute.
Thanks for sharing an extraordinary amount of detail on the process involved . You are very good at bringing us viewers / students along the learning curve to developing skill .
I just want to say you did perfectly here, and just because a Ford guy may know, isn't always the way to run and just change a part. I too am going through it right now with the 2011 and i am reviewing everything you did, for my issue. Mines showing a click, and drain on the dash when i turn the key. Like a bad battery.
Amazing diagnostic lesson
Thank you
Thank you Sir! Nice diag!!!!
Hey thanks I can't see either but really enjoy your videos my brother .PS great diagnosis
great job! My observation during the troubleshooting.... once the "starter guy" turned the ignition key to ON and you were able to start the car, at that point it was evident that it wasn't any connections at C211 or the diode. So it could only be the ignition switch or something else before that, and you found it.. I guess my point is, you didn't need to spend the extra time chasing the diagram towards the starter once you had started the vehicle with the "switched relay". Good job!
You helped me out tremendously you made me understand the whole circuitry behind it that is well worth it sir
Loved it! I was throwing out solutions before even diagnosing my problem. Tested my battery and it’s at 6v. Hopefully that’s all it is if not I will refer back to this!
@28:36 had your test lamp been on Bat +, it would have started!!! I've wired in many a push button for customer's as an alternative!!! Great diagnostic as usual!!!
Very very helpful. Just fixed a blown fuse on a 2014 escape on the buse bar in front of battery. My fault because I didn't disconnect battery when I had BCM panel apart under the glove box.
made the same mistake the first time I came across the ford lock housing not fully engaging the ignition switch. But you live and learn thats the most important part.
I really like those exhaust fans up in the wall in the background!
You did a awesome job on this video thank you
So glad to see your new student😍
Really appreciate it, Thanks for sharing this one Professor😍
I don't know what was the issue on your last video, I just couldn't get my comment added tried multiple times, maybe an error
Stay Safe Guy's😍
Solid Diag as always guys. Appreciate all the tips.
Good work with showing the whole process
Camera mans time to shine music is an alarm clock
Good video and look forward to many more. Thanks for the time and effort -
Excellent troubleshooting video!
Another awesome awesome awesome video. I freaking love it. Great job guys.
Thank you, sir. Excellent video.
Good video. Was Very detailed so good drag. But I know a guy from MI that could have called it in 2 mins. Gotta give Chris some love. See this issue like every two weeks. But like your drag process and no guess Like it !
nice one , great step by step process , thanks
great job very interesting and detailed video thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us ❤.
Awesome hairdo sherwood. Good quality videos you boys are putting out.
I took a brake class you co-instructed earlier this year and just ran into one of your videos a few days ago. Good to see you!
I liked this video, although as soon as you had starter relay voltage then didn’t I was telling you it’s the tumbler haha . Good job
Good logical approach thank you.
Nice work!
Great trouble shooting flow 👊🏻👍🏻
Great video as always. I like how methodical you are in your diagnosis process.
How about showing us Joe Caci's PWM box and his 3 phase tester box in action some time. Thanks.
thank you great lesson
Awesome vid 👏
We humans don't typically follow our own rules, you tested one fuse at the fuse box which MIGHT mean nothing if a wire is broken or a bad terminal, then on the next fuse you mentioned going to the component for the test, the better test, get the fuse, the terminals, and the wire all along the route in one go. To me, a fuse test only proves the fuse is not blown and that whatever supplies its voltage is also good, nothing else is proven. We techs need to create our own rules to follow to maximize a test and our time, we ought to follow our own custom rules like a robot, make updates as we learn a better way to do a specific task as the one may not work for all scenarios. We all know not to follow the trouble tree from SI but we can create our own chart based on real-world experience. Another GND adaptor for inside the cabin can be an adaptor from the cigar lighter.
In this case, I have no problem with adding in some testing for educational purposes by cutting down on some steps with the added explanation of the longer route would be nice to help the younger troops to not start out at the bottom of the learning curve. Our hard copy library, print out the schematics, make notes on the paper, and file that away for the next time we get a similar Ford no crank diag, use this experience, read the notes created and maybe our own silver bullet will be the first test completed, viola. If not then split the electrical circuit in half as a noted easy test point learned from past annotated repair attempts. I don't see any YT guys pulling out old notes, I am aware that IVAN from PHAD keeps notes as he has a bad memory and I also know that he studies up on tomorrow's work in advance so he might have a hard copy library at the house??
I watched a popular tech here on YT do some fuse and power supply testing to some components and totally screwed it up as he was making a video on an actual job and to help DIYers but screwed the pooch big time, AND THEN, AND THEN right near the end of the video, claimed in public that he needed to contact the owner to get another hour diag time approved, I let into his ass in the comments big time and I like his channel a lot but damn, if you are not a teacher, then don't teach on a real paying job PLS.
The portion of the diagnosis that was the final call was the mechanical portion of the key cylinder, I believe that the rod was sticking out of the end of the cylinder that has to interlock into the electrical switch assy, but you did not video the rod not turning as the last bit of the diag to show the young troops the root cause of the problem. Thanks for the extended diag of probably the entire circuit. When it comes to changing the wrong part, we always must ask ourselves, "Before I order the switch, and it does not fix the problem, what else can go wrong?" Even if we jumped the gun, I would hope that many techs would bench-test the switch before ordering a new one, or simply use a screwdriver as you have done to start the engine, anybody who does not at least try this, has never tried to steal their Uncles' car before, for the viewers that watched this video, I know they have learned a lot.
I'm sure that you can attest that I learned this lessen the hard way!
What did you use to back probe the ignition switch wires? The little black thumb that you touched the test light too
The connector terminals were easy to access but at a difficult angle. I bent the backprobe so I could touch the terminals easily. Hth. Thanks!
Awesome
Sweet!
Grasias
I've got a 2015 Escape and it randomly stopped cranking. Brand new starter, battery is reading 12.5V. All fuses are good starter relay is good. The busbar in front of battery was replaced along with 2 blown fuses on it. I get power on the input pin with starter relay out but vehicle still doesn't try to crank. Any suggestions I'm at a loss 😪
I've been having the ignition problems with my ford escape for a long time. sometimes, it will start by wrapping some electrical tape around the end of the lock cylinder. when I try to start it by pulling out the ignition switch, with the key in the lock cylinder for PATS, it still won't start and I don't understand why. even with a brand new ignition switch. I can't figure out why.
Thanks for sharing! Where is your garage ??
We are in south Georgia.
This one cranks no start
Cool shoes Sherwood. They look comfortable, what are they?
Very comfortable!
ON Men's Cloud 5 Sneakers a.co/d/ijfXOV0
I'll never buy another Ford again after dealing with these faulty ignition components. I can't imagine how much money they've made off that issue alone.
30:35 - About the headlights coming up again. Could it be the headlight switch is set to Auto and the sunload sensor is automatically causing the light to come on?
I had turned them off but I may have bumped it when I was working on the ignition switch.
Your near Jacksonville...ok.
Goes to show to go that bit further to prove the fault
Is sherwood 4 your son or grandson?
I got a hud I can't open how I open it
you know if i want my headlamps ON i know how to turn them on. its so sad you have to connect a charger to diag a car with a good battery. I do not own a vehicle with automatic on headlamps, but i also don't own a vehicle that is push to start, my vehicles have throttle cables to the throttle body life is so easy. its like now you cannot buy a vehicle without a radio they won't run without a radio. the radio shouldn't have anything to do with the starting and running of a vehicle. iknow several F150 trucks that wont switch off unless you raise the hood and unplug the ABS module. ABS should have nothing in common with the engine. think how much easier and cheaper diag times would be with out radios and ABS
Ain't the truth, Pine Hollow auto diagnostic had a Mercedes no crank no start no comm due to rear window washer leak that took down the Can Bus signal, that's insane!!!
You can always turn the auto headlights off and operate them manually. But even if you leave them on, they still turn themselves off on their own. As for the ABS system, other systems besides ABS use the data from the tone wheel sensors. The only solution would be to put more than one sensor on each wheel. That would be a complicated mess, and more things to break.
The 3.0 ford engine not my favorite tend have issues my friend has tarus threw error code misfire after did tune up
Ez a diagnosztika olyan mint az élet!!
since when Bradley Cooper started fixing cars? 😂
Hey 😎 cool hair do
Thanks for sharing it, Royalty Auto Service
👍
CANNY Royalty Auto Service
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 23::07pm