Pretty sure it’s designed that way because people tend to over tighten that bolt. It’s been engineered so it fails externally versus internally, ruining your oil pan and the plug. That way you can actually replace it.
Why not engineer them to hold up. Period. I’ve owned dozens of vehicles, zero of them had drain lug issues from over torque. Some had cross thread issues, but this won’t prevent that either.
PPE sells a replacement 3.0L Duramax stainless steel drain plug that is so hard it will damage incorrect size tøols before it damages the plug. You may want to look at Michelin tires, I think they ride the best with great snow traction.
This is why I always do my own oil changes and always install a Fumoto drain valve on every vehicle I own at the very first oil change. Problem solved.
Yep doesn't suprise me with all the damn big 3 manufacturers buying the cheapest parts as possible for every design/ parts then charging $80k to 110k for trucks. Im sick 🤮. Great video!
My tires sound like a prostitute sky diving naked. It’s a 2024 sierra 3.0 duramax AT4. I like the truck but GM says it’s the tires and nothing they can do. Charged me to rotate the tires which helped a bunch, but can’t wait to get new tires. The Goodyears are terrible. Decent power, good ride, smart tech, sometimes I swear I can smell diesel fuel. I like the honest review, have 18k miles and have some of the same annoying issues. My last truck was a 21 Ford 3.5 twin turbo, had more power but ate gas like it was 1972.
The Goodyear Duaratrac’s in my 18 were garbage. Sucked in the rain etc etc. Dry rotted with less than 40k. I went with the Mickey Thompson AT’s. Phenominal Tire! Quiet, grip is great when wet (they’re snow rated) decent look for an AT. Love them!
If the noise you are talking about coming from the rear-end while turning slow could be the rear leaf springs. There is a fix for this. There are these pieces of rubber you can get and they go between the springs. You take weight off the springs and then slide the rubber pieces in.
I have the same truck and the same noise in the suspension when I hit a bump or back out of my drive way. I also have a lot of lurching and hard shift and delay with the 10 speed transmission. My truck also gets stuck at 2000 rpm at a slow speed a lot and almost causes many accidents.
3.0L Durmax easy upgrades: I upgraded the drain plug to a magnet, and upgraded the fuel filter housing because it was absolutely trash. I also found on Etsy a guy who makes a fuel cap that goes over it - so you don't end up being a moron and putting the wrong fuel into the tank, upgraded the latch and oil cap as well. Can all be found on DMAX store. Hopefully this helps. Thinking of upgrading the fuel system filter, and oil catch can... but might not.
I always use a box wrench for oil pan bolt heads and have never rounded any of them in my 50 years of changing oil. Use a torque wrench especially on the fuel filter plastic housing then you should not booger it up.
update that oil pan with ppe... also update the transmission pan with ppe... also update the rear end differential cover with ppe... you will be glad you did... you can also look into updating the fuel filter system to a 2 stage system... for that leaf spring noise... just lithium grease them up a little bit at the contact point where the noise is
Unbelievable. I can’t believe how they could short that connection bolt . That’s going to be an ongoing issue . Check on a finger lever action drain plug . It drains with a slide lever.
The oil drain plug is probably made of softer metal and with a torque limiting head to make sure someone who doesn't know what they're doing would not over-torque and strip the oil pan.
Changed the oil on my LZ0 last weekend and noticed the oil pan is leaking. I snugged up all the bolts in a cross pattern and sprayed brake cleaner to clean it up. I’ll check it again in 1k miles. If leaking I’m installing a PPE pan. 20k miles…. And yes I’ve rounded out the plug too - use a 6 pt socket only.
Fumoto Valve, done. Had to replace mine because it was torqued on like it was a lug nut by the dealer. Stripped it. Had to use a pipe wrench to get it off.......
I have the same truck, and have even more miles on mine :). I run Amsoil in it, won’t put anything else in it. The trans flush is easy to do on your own. On the suspension, I had Eibach Pro 2.0’s put on around 30k miles, also to level out the front. I’ve had no issues with the truck, love it, just passed 70k miles.
I’ve had issues with the rear window/plastic trim. There is a continuous tapping noise from the rear. GM can’t figure it out, it’s been 4 months. I agree with you l, tons of small issues for the money we pay. Quality is horrible
Seems like yesterday you purchased this truck. I was surprised at 60,000 miles already. It’s an amazing truck. I have the 2020 Silverado 3.0 and it sits in the garage a lot. I had one issue with it on a trip from Lubbock, Tx to Gulfport, Mississippi last winter and that was a radio and camera freeze. It was irritating as you could adjust nothing on the screen and volume was locked. You could not even shut it off and the Rear-view camera was stuck on. It took a few days to get it into the dealership in Biloxi, but, it turned out to be a 45 minute reflash of the system and I was out of there. That’s the only issue I’ve had. But than, I have not driven much this past year and have put about 2000 miles on it all year. I retired and it is rare I drive it. It just turned 19000 miles. My son thinks I should sell it. I think he should mind his own business. I’ve driven Silverado’s most of my life and this truck is awesome. I have no interest in selling it. I paid cash at purchase, it doesn’t cost me anything to hang onto it. I love the ride, the mileage it gets, the torque it has. It pulls my enclosed motorcycle trailer amazingly as well. I knew the day you got this little max, you would be happy and glad you are. Ford and Dodge already retired their little diesel and GM just updated theirs. That leaves the best still in production. You can’t beat this little inline 6. I know I don’t use it as often as I should, but, it’s there if I need it. I don’t follow the maintenance schedule, I just replace the filter and oil , air filter, cabin filter once a year. Just did all that. I’m so happy you’re happy with this little max. Thanks for the update. These trucks still excite this old man. I’m in love with it 3 years later, as I was the first day. Many more miles to you my friend, thanks for posting
18k on my truck in the first year. I absolutely love the gas mileage and the reliability l. However I hate the auto stop start, the rear suspension, and the cloth interior which stained no matter what I was doing in the truck. Infact i hated it so much I upgraded to a Katzkin leather interior. Love the way it came out.
@@BanditDavesToyChest I caught them just after Christmas and they we’re having a year end sale. So the package I chose was originally $2400, With all discounts i got for just under $1900. Everyone compliments me on just how good it looks and has a factory or better than factory feel to them.
I put Katzkin leather cover in my 2021 elevation. It's around $1k the they install it, $600 if you do it. It's worth the money, I believe. Looks great.
Im thinking - you’re using a 12 point socket- they grab the corners. The six point grabs the flat part of the hex head. Idk- but might be worth trying and see if it helps.
I use a oil drain valve. Never have to pull the plug again. This is the one that fits my 2020 3.0L Duramax. Comes with hose and locking block. Fumoto F137S Oil Drain Valve - 2 Caps & 5' of HD 3/8" ID PVC Tubing - S/S F107S.
OK, now check the oil pump belt to see if it's cracked. If oil pressure drops, the oil pressurized timing chain tensioner goes slack, timing jumps, valves crash into pistons and blow the engine!!
If its that bad modify the plug so you have a little bit more bite. File it down 1/8th inch if you have enough material on all sides, should last the rest of the trucks life
I'd weld a nut to the new drain plug before installing it. Clunking and speaking suspension is normal for 60,000 miles unless you have a worn shock. I have 205,000 on my truck, and it doesn't squeak, rattle, or clunk.
Use a file on the beveled portion to make the hex longer. Or use a 6 point combo wrench instead of a socket. The file also helps if the plug is messed up.
The noise is from you rear leaf springs. They make an aftermarket kit that you can buy and they are rubber spacers you install between the leaf springs.
The occasional knocking sound when I’m actually working the suspension I agree with you but the high pitched screeching is 100% coming from the brakes as it’s speed dependent and goes away when I tap the brakes. Just haven’t had the opportunity to pull the rear drivers side apart to get a good look. Plan to this weekend and will report back!
Dude. Just noticed that you were driving through my hometown of Cinnaminson. We even go to the same car wash! Glad to see local peeps on TH-cam. I’m currently shopping for a truck with this engine. Did a search for reviews, and yours popped up. Side note: I’ve had the Falken Wildpeaks for about 40k miles, love the em, and still a good amount of tread left.
Just left kerbeck GMC. Checking out reviews of the 3.0duramax. I think I'll be buying gmc 3.0 duramax next year 2024 or 25. Unless something is better by then. What's your review of the 3.0. Hope you reply.
@@brucegeib263I did get one in June. 2021 with the LM2 and about 36k on the odometer. I’ve put about 7k on it since, and I couldn’t be happier. This engine is awesome. I could ramble on about all the good things, but the main thing is, and I’ll preface this by saying that I do tow a trailer for work an average 3 days a week, I get around 21 mpg city, best of 31 highway. I do have some mods on the engine. Main one being the Pulsar that helps with throttle response and shuts off the annoying auto stop/start. People can’t believe the balls this little 3 liter has. It puts you to the back of the seat when I mash the pedal. Feel free to hit me up with any questions.
Ok the creaking suspension I heard you need to install a rubber fitting into the leaf springs. I heard it’s that problem . It puts off a noise. You tube it I saw it on there .
replace that bolt with a bolt from PPE... or the oil pan as a whole... way better oil pan... better bolt... and you get a complete oil drain... you can also hold 8 quarts of oil...
I have that thing that happens periodically where it try’s to start and times out. Gonna take it in but other than that I have 26k miles no issues and all good but the cab off to replace cam sensor wheel is freaking me out I thought it would be something simple like fuel pump but sounds like not many have my issue. Only 4-5 times in 26k only this last time did I even think anything of it. These trucks so expensive but not the best parts, I have 2003 duramax and sat for 2 years just turned it over and drove it 500 miles. Oil pump I think is a trans off change too. Anyhow. Glad in general your experience has been good. Thanks for your thoughts.
@@gk9417 got this guy on sale from Harbor Freight but I’m sure you can find it at any auto parts store. www.harborfreight.com/obd-ii-code-reader-64981.html Good luck and thanks for watching!!!
Those are ok and I looked into them. The Staulbus (German made) are far superior and rated way higher. After looking at both of them I opted for the Stahlbus. It seems much lower profile that the Fumoto and the valve is internal and looked less likely to be opened accidentally. It comes in two pieces. The plug with the internal valve and the second piece attaches to the plug with a section of hose for your pan. The valve only opens when the second piece is inserted and twisted.
I was using them for years until I just got a bad one that leaked. Not sure if it was just a one-off issue or part of the Covid Era poor manufacturing/loss of QC issue.
I got the same code when I ran the truck really low on DEF 😂 I had 1 bar left and first it didn’t start on the first crank then when it did start it threw the code.
I didn't catch in your video if you lubricate the suspension joints? That might get the noises away? Thank you for the review. I have the same 2021 truck, but elevation double cab X31, 22k miles since January 2022.
I think I will definitely check these out in the next few months. I really don't have too much to complain about but will be sinking some money into the truck here soon to make it more usable as the "family hauler". Thanks for watching!
My 21 silverado 3.p duramax I have 84,332 as we drive alot. But we literally can't fi d the oil anywhere right now. I am about to run the different oil because I don't have a choice. I am so far beyond oil change
I think you're like me anytime I'll buy something Paul hears this and that but now I'd about 2 weeks I quit hunting problems I love Chevrolet truck that's all I drive are all I will ever drive
Drain plugs have rubber gaskets run it down finger tight till it seats then using a 6 point wrench tighten just a little bit problem solved no need to crank on it.
I wish I could get to a 60,000 mile review. I purchased a new 2024 GMC Sierra with the 3.0 LZ0 Duramax based much on the reviews I found on the engine. The problem is my engine failed after 1,000 miles and is in the process of having a new engine installed. I have had my new truck in my possession for less days than it has been at the dealer having a new engine installed. So a brand new truck has to be torn completely apart, cab removed, to replace the engine. I asked GMC to replace the entire truck considering it was a new truck, a few weeks old to me, 1,000 miles and they tell me too bad, sorry, we will fix it. I am not pleased to own a new truck that has been torn apart. I have owned nothing but GM vehicles my entire life, and I'm old, but never again
It's an M12x1.75 drain plug like any other modern GM engine. Buy an aftermarket one instead of a genuine one. You can go right to AutoZone, O'Reilly, etc and just pick one out that's M12x1.75. Most aftermarket ones have much better shaped heads than that.
How are the regens? I have a 6.6L Duramax (2012 Silverado) and I've be looking to replace with either the 5.3 or the baby duramax. The emissions on the duramax, regens (if you don't do a lot of highway driving during the week), and price of diesel have me leaning towards the 5.3 (but I've heard the 5.3s have had issues). I'd get your emissions checked out while still on GM's dime. The price of these new trucks in 2023 are crazy (I keep waiting for prices to drop, but they keep going up instead). PS-I don't know where you live, but it looks very nice from what I've seen on your drive. Cheers-
I just got a 23 babymax and i love it its every couple thousand miles it will do a regen love mine so far and the fule mileage i get cant beat it its like driving a car lol
I have a 2023 GMC Sierra with the LZ0 and the regen distances have ranged from 273 to 501 miles as shown by my IDASH GAUGE. DEF useage is about 1,000 miles per gallon (no towing).
User error. Use a wrench with a pitch to the wrench. Nothing new with weird angles and tight areas. But continuing to use the wrong tool and damage a head. Is a rookie mistake.
Not a rookie mistake when you get it back from the dealership already marred from a pneumatic tool…what’s your words of wisdom for that when a conventional tool no longer engages? I’ll wait….. My solution was to get a new bolt, but I don’t want to hear any crap like this is something that never happens when I have plenty of messages from folks that are in the same boat. This was a simple thing to avoid, they didn’t and for a power train that is struggling to keep people on board, stupid things like this should NEVER happen. Rookie mistake my azz….
The transmission drain pan on a 4l60e is the same way. Use a turbo socket lol Terrible design. My first run in with those bolts were valve body bolts on GM's 440-t4 transmission
Close to 3k, but to be totally honest I haven’t paid enough attention to it to get a very solid assessment. I just put 2.5 gal in and the last time was roughly 3 weeks ago so with my commute close to 3k and it was not full either time.
Your question would be valid if it was an actual flush...but it isn't. Companies can label things however they want, the actual product doesn't necessarily have to conform. Take the Dodge "Hemi"...the actual combustion chamber isn't technically hemispherical. But Dodge isn't saying it's a hemispherical chamber, they're just marketing it as a "Hemi". In a "flush", there are many portions of the transmission that sees no oil flow at idle in park. The new oil that goes in mixes immediately with the oil still in the oil pan. That mixture then mixes with the oil in the torque converter. By the time they've put the 14 quarts of new oil through the transmission, 7 of those new quarts went right back out to the flushing machine which means you only got 7 new quarts. Contrast that to dumping the fluid and putting 7 new quarts in because that's all you can get out by dropping the pan. In the end, both methods end up with a 50-50 mix of old and new oil. The difference is when you drop the pan to dump it, you also change the filter. The dirty little secret of the "flush" is they don't ever change the filter...EVER! The other negative to a "flush" is they tap into the cooler lines which could very likely cause a leak down the road. Don't fall for the "flush" gimmick, get the old "fluid and filter" change!
@@Richard-qz8up yeah I’ve heard horror stories of friends vehicles ruined because of a “flush” from dealership. I’ve always just dropped pan, changed filter and added clean fluid and drain plug to pan. Never had issues
My Trail Boss has 4k mikes and the back suspension squeaks just hitting my driveway. What is all the clicking that occurs when you shut the truck down?
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Pretty sure it’s designed that way because people tend to over tighten that bolt. It’s been engineered so it fails externally versus internally, ruining your oil pan and the plug. That way you can actually replace it.
Why not engineer them to hold up. Period.
I’ve owned dozens of vehicles, zero of them had drain lug issues from over torque. Some had cross thread issues, but this won’t prevent that either.
I love channels like this that provide real world examples and experiences from the host, and from hundreds of intelligent viewers. Thanks 🙏
I’d weld a socket right to the drain plug
PPE sells a replacement 3.0L Duramax stainless steel drain plug that is so hard it will damage incorrect size tøols before it damages the plug.
You may want to look at Michelin tires, I think they ride the best with great snow traction.
This is why I always do my own oil changes and always install a Fumoto drain valve on every vehicle I own at the very first oil change. Problem solved.
Yep I do all my maintenance as well. I use the Stalhbus drain valve.
Yep doesn't suprise me with all the damn big 3 manufacturers buying the cheapest parts as possible for every design/ parts then charging $80k to 110k for trucks. Im sick 🤮. Great video!
Buy a 90s Truck and rebuild.
I don't know what truck you are purchasing. My 23 cost no where close to 80-110K. This is what happens when a "guy" over torques the drain plug.
Welcome to capitalism.
Total insanity and no competition to speak of
Thanks for the videos keeping me updated on what to look forward to with my Silverado
Glad that you are still liking the truck
My tires sound like a prostitute sky diving naked. It’s a 2024 sierra 3.0 duramax AT4. I like the truck but GM says it’s the tires and nothing they can do. Charged me to rotate the tires which helped a bunch, but can’t wait to get new tires. The Goodyears are terrible. Decent power, good ride, smart tech, sometimes I swear I can smell diesel fuel. I like the honest review, have 18k miles and have some of the same annoying issues. My last truck was a 21 Ford 3.5 twin turbo, had more power but ate gas like it was 1972.
The Goodyear Duaratrac’s in my 18 were garbage. Sucked in the rain etc etc. Dry rotted with less than 40k. I went with the Mickey Thompson AT’s. Phenominal Tire! Quiet, grip is great when wet (they’re snow rated) decent look for an AT. Love them!
If the noise you are talking about coming from the rear-end while turning slow could be the rear leaf springs. There is a fix for this. There are these pieces of rubber you can get and they go between the springs. You take weight off the springs and then slide the rubber pieces in.
th-cam.com/video/9iDh7TKHcRU/w-d-xo.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
Here is a video from big truck big rv
I have the same truck and the same noise in the suspension when I hit a bump or back out of my drive way. I also have a lot of lurching and hard shift and delay with the 10 speed transmission. My truck also gets stuck at 2000 rpm at a slow speed a lot and almost causes many accidents.
3.0L Durmax easy upgrades: I upgraded the drain plug to a magnet, and upgraded the fuel filter housing because it was absolutely trash. I also found on Etsy a guy who makes a fuel cap that goes over it - so you don't end up being a moron and putting the wrong fuel into the tank, upgraded the latch and oil cap as well. Can all be found on DMAX store. Hopefully this helps. Thinking of upgrading the fuel system filter, and oil catch can... but might not.
I have 16 year exp. in oil services. they have been using the same plug for a long time and have been the bane of my existence.
Supposed to be 18 foot pounds. Daughter’s diesel Cruise same thing. Had to take a Dremel to it. No more problems
I always use a box wrench for oil pan bolt heads and have never rounded any of them in my 50 years of changing oil. Use a torque wrench especially on the fuel filter plastic housing then you should not booger it up.
The drain plug is designed that way because its o-ring sealed and doesnt require alot of torque
update that oil pan with ppe... also update the transmission pan with ppe... also update the rear end differential cover with ppe... you will be glad you did...
you can also look into updating the fuel filter system to a 2 stage system...
for that leaf spring noise... just lithium grease them up a little bit at the contact point where the noise is
Unbelievable. I can’t believe how they could short that connection bolt . That’s going to be an ongoing issue . Check on a finger lever action drain plug . It drains with a slide lever.
It's all about aerodynamics Dave! Air slides over that bolt head just as easily as the socket head does! haha!
😂
The oil drain plug is probably made of softer metal and with a torque limiting head to make sure someone who doesn't know what they're doing would not over-torque and strip the oil pan.
I had to jack up the body, blow out the springs and sprayed the plastic spacers with RV dry slide lube. Solved the squeak problem.
Changed the oil on my LZ0 last weekend and noticed the oil pan is leaking. I snugged up all the bolts in a cross pattern and sprayed brake cleaner to clean it up. I’ll check it again in 1k miles. If leaking I’m installing a PPE pan. 20k miles…. And yes I’ve rounded out the plug too - use a 6 pt socket only.
Fumoto Valve, done. Had to replace mine because it was torqued on like it was a lug nut by the dealer. Stripped it. Had to use a pipe wrench to get it off.......
First thing I did when I purchased my LM2 was a Fumoto type drain plug (as I do with every vehicle I own)
Sounds like it’s in the cards for the next change then!
I have the same truck, and have even more miles on mine :). I run Amsoil in it, won’t put anything else in it. The trans flush is easy to do on your own. On the suspension, I had Eibach Pro 2.0’s put on around 30k miles, also to level out the front. I’ve had no issues with the truck, love it, just passed 70k miles.
Currently at 72k and rolling! 👍🏻
Any issues, i am looking to buy one with 100K miles on it. Thoughts?
Zero issues with mine. Still runs like it’s brand new. Always depends on who drove those 100k miles, I maintain mine well.
I’ve had issues with the rear window/plastic trim. There is a continuous tapping noise from the rear. GM can’t figure it out, it’s been 4 months. I agree with you l, tons of small issues for the money we pay. Quality is horrible
Looks pretty damn good to me
Dave, change the plug to a fomoto valve. You'll never have to remove it again.
I second that! I have 136k and 96k miles on my vehicles with the Fumoto drain valves an NO seepage or leaks. They WORK.
I put Fumoto drain valves in my trucks. They are much cleaner to use and I’ve never had one open on its own.
Seems like yesterday you purchased this truck. I was surprised at 60,000 miles already. It’s an amazing truck. I have the 2020 Silverado 3.0 and it sits in the garage a lot. I had one issue with it on a trip from Lubbock, Tx to Gulfport, Mississippi last winter and that was a radio and camera freeze. It was irritating as you could adjust nothing on the screen and volume was locked. You could not even shut it off and the Rear-view camera was stuck on. It took a few days to get it into the dealership in Biloxi, but, it turned out to be a 45 minute reflash of the system and I was out of there. That’s the only issue I’ve had. But than, I have not driven much this past year and have put about 2000 miles on it all year. I retired and it is rare I drive it. It just turned 19000 miles. My son thinks I should sell it. I think he should mind his own business. I’ve driven Silverado’s most of my life and this truck is awesome. I have no interest in selling it. I paid cash at purchase, it doesn’t cost me anything to hang onto it. I love the ride, the mileage it gets, the torque it has. It pulls my enclosed motorcycle trailer amazingly as well. I knew the day you got this little max, you would be happy and glad you are. Ford and Dodge already retired their little diesel and GM just updated theirs. That leaves the best still in production. You can’t beat this little inline 6. I know I don’t use it as often as I should, but, it’s there if I need it. I don’t follow the maintenance schedule, I just replace the filter and oil , air filter, cabin filter once a year. Just did all that. I’m so happy you’re happy with this little max. Thanks for the update. These trucks still excite this old man. I’m in love with it 3 years later, as I was the first day. Many more miles to you my friend, thanks for posting
18k on my truck in the first year. I absolutely love the gas mileage and the reliability l. However I hate the auto stop start, the rear suspension, and the cloth interior which stained no matter what I was doing in the truck. Infact i hated it so much I upgraded to a Katzkin leather interior. Love the way it came out.
I’ve been thinking about the Katzkin…do you mind mentioning how much it set you back?
@@BanditDavesToyChest I caught them just after Christmas and they we’re having a year end sale. So the package I chose was originally $2400, With all discounts i got for just under $1900. Everyone compliments me on just how good it looks and has a factory or better than factory feel to them.
@@BanditDavesToyChest question did you changed the trasmision fluid ? Is every 60k miles ??? I can’t found nothing on the manual. Thanks
I put Katzkin leather cover in my 2021 elevation. It's around $1k the they install it, $600 if you do it. It's worth the money, I believe. Looks great.
Im thinking - you’re using a 12 point socket- they grab the corners. The six point grabs the flat part of the hex head. Idk- but might be worth trying and see if it helps.
I use a oil drain valve. Never have to pull the plug again. This is the one that fits my 2020 3.0L Duramax. Comes with hose and locking block. Fumoto F137S Oil Drain Valve - 2 Caps & 5' of HD 3/8" ID PVC Tubing - S/S F107S.
Meh your adding a point for damage to occur especially if you off road. Thats why this is not the norm. One piece of debris and whammo your leaking
@@zackjay71 That’s why I made sure skid plate covers it as well as the valve has a locking block. It take more than debris to open or knock it off.
33k on mine and my plug still looks perfect
You either did it yourself from the get go or have a competent service staff. Either way, that’s fantastic and appreciate you watching!
I have at4 sierra 3.0 no sounds on breaks or suspension drain plug also good maybe get it checked, I got them emissions code also but went away
Look into the Staulbus oil drain valve. I put them on all my cars and love it. You will never unscrew another one again just drain with hose.
OK, now check the oil pump belt to see if it's cracked. If oil pressure drops, the oil pressurized timing chain tensioner goes slack, timing jumps, valves crash into pistons and blow the engine!!
If its that bad modify the plug so you have a little bit more bite. File it down 1/8th inch if you have enough material on all sides, should last the rest of the trucks life
Great Honest Review - Thanks for keeping us updated.
sorry to hear the issues with your ride. My silverado has 62,000 miles too, not one issue
Fix the problem: customize a socket to help get more engagement on the bolt head.
I just use a flank drive wrench. Never had a problem with it.
I'd weld a nut to the new drain plug before installing it. Clunking and speaking suspension is normal for 60,000 miles unless you have a worn shock. I have 205,000 on my truck, and it doesn't squeak, rattle, or clunk.
Use a file on the beveled portion to make the hex longer. Or use a 6 point combo wrench instead of a socket. The file also helps if the plug is messed up.
The noise is from you rear leaf springs. They make an aftermarket kit that you can buy and they are rubber spacers you install between the leaf springs.
The occasional knocking sound when I’m actually working the suspension I agree with you but the high pitched screeching is 100% coming from the brakes as it’s speed dependent and goes away when I tap the brakes. Just haven’t had the opportunity to pull the rear drivers side apart to get a good look. Plan to this weekend and will report back!
@@BanditDavesToyChest the knocking noise is faulty spring shackle bushings dealer replaced both packs under warranty
Fumoto Drain valve. Never have to worry again.
Dude. Just noticed that you were driving through my hometown of Cinnaminson. We even go to the same car wash! Glad to see local peeps on TH-cam. I’m currently shopping for a truck with this engine. Did a search for reviews, and yours popped up.
Side note: I’ve had the Falken Wildpeaks for about 40k miles, love the em, and still a good amount of tread left.
Just left kerbeck GMC. Checking out reviews of the 3.0duramax. I think I'll be buying gmc 3.0 duramax next year 2024 or 25. Unless something is better by then. What's your review of the 3.0. Hope you reply.
@@brucegeib263I did get one in June. 2021 with the LM2 and about 36k on the odometer. I’ve put about 7k on it since, and I couldn’t be happier. This engine is awesome. I could ramble on about all the good things, but the main thing is, and I’ll preface this by saying that I do tow a trailer for work an average 3 days a week, I get around 21 mpg city, best of 31 highway. I do have some mods on the engine. Main one being the Pulsar that helps with throttle response and shuts off the annoying auto stop/start. People can’t believe the balls this little 3 liter has. It puts you to the back of the seat when I mash the pedal.
Feel free to hit me up with any questions.
@@brucegeib263and if you live near Kerbeck, hit me up and I’ll let you check it out.
You still get 21city and 31 highway towing?
What oil and how much do you pay?
Ok the creaking suspension I heard you need to install a rubber fitting into the leaf springs. I heard it’s that problem . It puts off a noise. You tube it I saw it on there .
I ran into the same problem with the drain plug, thankfully the replacement I got from the dealer has a head twice the size of the stock plug.
replace that bolt with a bolt from PPE... or the oil pan as a whole... way better oil pan... better bolt... and you get a complete oil drain... you can also hold 8 quarts of oil...
Amsoil has oil too, but you have to order it.
I have that thing that happens periodically where it try’s to start and times out. Gonna take it in but other than that I have 26k miles no issues and all good but the cab off to replace cam sensor wheel is freaking me out I thought it would be something simple like fuel pump but sounds like not many have my issue. Only 4-5 times in 26k only this last time did I even think anything of it. These trucks so expensive but not the best parts, I have 2003 duramax and sat for 2 years just turned it over and drove it 500 miles. Oil pump I think is a trans off change too. Anyhow. Glad in general your experience has been good. Thanks for your thoughts.
Great video! How about the Emissions Problem, did you end up finding a fix? I have a Yukon 3.0L duramax and just got my first emissions check engine,.
Believe it or not I just bought a cheap reset tool. I’ve had the code several more times but a quick reset and back in business.
@@BanditDavesToyChest what kind of tool did you buy to reset the fault light 🙏✌️👍🇨🇦
@@gk9417 got this guy on sale from Harbor Freight but I’m sure you can find it at any auto parts store.
www.harborfreight.com/obd-ii-code-reader-64981.html
Good luck and thanks for watching!!!
Fumoto oil drain valve
I have one and plan to install on my next oil change.
Those are ok and I looked into them. The Staulbus (German made) are far superior and rated way higher. After looking at both of them I opted for the Stahlbus. It seems much lower profile that the Fumoto and the valve is internal and looked less likely to be opened accidentally. It comes in two pieces. The plug with the internal valve and the second piece attaches to the plug with a section of hose for your pan. The valve only opens when the second piece is inserted and twisted.
I was using them for years until I just got a bad one that leaked. Not sure if it was just a one-off issue or part of the Covid Era poor manufacturing/loss of QC issue.
I got the same code when I ran the truck really low on DEF 😂 I had 1 bar left and first it didn’t start on the first crank then when it did start it threw the code.
I got 7 quarts of acdelco and oem filter for $85 of Amazon. I saw another TH-cam, doing own oil won't void warranty
I didn't catch in your video if you lubricate the suspension joints? That might get the noises away? Thank you for the review. I have the same 2021 truck, but elevation double cab X31, 22k miles since January 2022.
Supposed to tighten the filter by hand, with a oily glove on.
Hi, Get an aftermarket plug with the built in magnet.
The rancho shocks that they use from factory are absolute trash. I swapped mine out for bilstein 5100s and my truck's ride has been amazing.
I think I will definitely check these out in the next few months. I really don't have too much to complain about but will be sinking some money into the truck here soon to make it more usable as the "family hauler". Thanks for watching!
Yep. Tenneco junk. Mine were starting to make noises by 30k.
Lucky you made it to 60 k got the same rig mine didn’t even make it to 6 k
The finger nails look a little rounded off too. With the new plug in hand find a quality socket that fits it and use it exclusively for that .
good job Dave ,will you do trans flush yourself ? if so make a video buddy thanks
Will definitely be doing it myself! Keep you posted!
Thanks! I have a 2024 Silverado 3.0 and love it! I have a feeling GM will stop making them in the next 5 years
Nice Run through Delanco. River Rats appreciate it.
My plug rounded off the first time I changed it the dealer makes it super tight . We had a hard time removing the stealer dealer plug
New subscriber Looking into a new 23 Denali 3.0 But scared for Emissions freezing up in the Canadian winters ✌️🙏👍🇨🇦
If the oil change socket is the only problem I'll not worry ..
Check out the Falken Wild Peak AT3, Tire Rack specs show that they are made in Thailand.
That’s why I tore that pos off and replaced mine with a fumoto valve.
Wonder if one from an Ecodiesel would fit? 150k + miles on my Ram, always serviced myself and keep away from dealer. Bogus design on that plug!
You can go The Ford Place and the building full motor and transmission
Dodge has plenty all problems
My 21 silverado 3.p duramax I have 84,332 as we drive alot. But we literally can't fi d the oil anywhere right now. I am about to run the different oil because I don't have a choice. I am so far beyond oil change
I had the same issue…ended up running fine with no problems. Swapped over to dexosD when it back available on the next oil change
What speed do you drive at to get that great mpg, I don't see over 26mpg on mine
It looks likes he lives in flat land area
Buy a fumoto drain valve. Don't have to worry about that crappy drain plug anymore.
I'm sure a drain plug from a different GM engine would have a better flange profile anmd the same threads.
Get yourself a six point ratcheting wrench. Preferably with a flex head. That's all you need. Using a 12 point will only make it easier to round off.
I think you're like me anytime I'll buy something Paul hears this and that but now I'd about 2 weeks I quit hunting problems I love Chevrolet truck that's all I drive are all I will ever drive
Drain plugs have rubber gaskets run it down finger tight till it seats then using a 6 point wrench tighten just a little bit problem solved no need to crank on it.
I wish I could get to a 60,000 mile review. I purchased a new 2024 GMC Sierra with the 3.0 LZ0 Duramax based much on the reviews I found on the engine. The problem is my engine failed after 1,000 miles and is in the process of having a new engine installed. I have had my new truck in my possession for less days than it has been at the dealer having a new engine installed. So a brand new truck has to be torn completely apart, cab removed, to replace the engine. I asked GMC to replace the entire truck considering it was a new truck, a few weeks old to me, 1,000 miles and they tell me too bad, sorry, we will fix it. I am not pleased to own a new truck that has been torn apart. I have owned nothing but GM vehicles my entire life, and I'm old, but never again
Recently did a 75k review
always use a 6 point socket on those
I wouldn't use a socket, I would use a wrench
It's an M12x1.75 drain plug like any other modern GM engine. Buy an aftermarket one instead of a genuine one. You can go right to AutoZone, O'Reilly, etc and just pick one out that's M12x1.75. Most aftermarket ones have much better shaped heads than that.
How are the regens? I have a 6.6L Duramax (2012 Silverado) and I've be looking to replace with either the 5.3 or the baby duramax. The emissions on the duramax, regens (if you don't do a lot of highway driving during the week), and price of diesel have me leaning towards the 5.3 (but I've heard the 5.3s have had issues).
I'd get your emissions checked out while still on GM's dime. The price of these new trucks in 2023 are crazy (I keep waiting for prices to drop, but they keep going up instead).
PS-I don't know where you live, but it looks very nice from what I've seen on your drive. Cheers-
I just got a 23 babymax and i love it its every couple thousand miles it will do a regen love mine so far and the fule mileage i get cant beat it its like driving a car lol
I have a 2023 GMC Sierra with the LZ0 and the regen distances have ranged from 273 to 501 miles as shown by my IDASH GAUGE. DEF useage is about 1,000 miles per gallon (no towing).
id rather have the drain plug issue over having to have a high-pressure fuel pump done... no thanks lol
You ain’t lyin! Lol have to agree with that.
Noisy suspension is crazy
!!!!
What are your issues burning oil between changes? I am hearing 1 quart 2000 miles.
How are the seats? I keep hearing they're hard.
Drove 3.5 hrs in it every week day for 2 years…no complaints from this guy.
That's when you use a boxed in wrench.
Buy the Dorman replacement plug... much better than the stock pos!
Any problems with leaf springs yet?
Fumoto or Finger Touch drain valve.
User error. Use a wrench with a pitch to the wrench. Nothing new with weird angles and tight areas. But continuing to use the wrong tool and damage a head. Is a rookie mistake.
Not a rookie mistake when you get it back from the dealership already marred from a pneumatic tool…what’s your words of wisdom for that when a conventional tool no longer engages? I’ll wait…..
My solution was to get a new bolt, but I don’t want to hear any crap like this is something that never happens when I have plenty of messages from folks that are in the same boat. This was a simple thing to avoid, they didn’t and for a power train that is struggling to keep people on board, stupid things like this should NEVER happen.
Rookie mistake my azz….
do NOT flush your transmission. Just just the fluid and filter.
The transmission drain pan on a 4l60e is the same way. Use a turbo socket lol Terrible design. My first run in with those bolts were valve body bolts on GM's 440-t4 transmission
You will be praising GM when you catch that kid at some oil change facility using a impact wrench to change your oil. Trust me, that stuff happens.
would you like to get some free wheel lights?
Use a box end wrench and you won't have that issue.
If the bolt isn’t torqued to hell then that would work fine barring someone hasn’t already slipped off the bolt and boogered up the thread.
Is the rubber gasket for this drain plug available separately?
What is the DEF usage like? How many miles do you get out of a full tank of DEF.
Close to 3k, but to be totally honest I haven’t paid enough attention to it to get a very solid assessment. I just put 2.5 gal in and the last time was roughly 3 weeks ago so with my commute close to 3k and it was not full either time.
Def usage is really low when not towing . I got about 5k from a tank without towing
should you not change the Trans filter & clean the screen when you change the tranny oil ?
That truck seems extremely quiet.
First thing literally everyone says when they see it…haha
Don’t flush the trans. Just change the fluid and filter.
Is it more beneficial to flush trans than to just dump the fluid and replace?
Your question would be valid if it was an actual flush...but it isn't. Companies can label things however they want, the actual product doesn't necessarily have to conform. Take the Dodge "Hemi"...the actual combustion chamber isn't technically hemispherical. But Dodge isn't saying it's a hemispherical chamber, they're just marketing it as a "Hemi".
In a "flush", there are many portions of the transmission that sees no oil flow at idle in park. The new oil that goes in mixes immediately with the oil still in the oil pan. That mixture then mixes with the oil in the torque converter. By the time they've put the 14 quarts of new oil through the transmission, 7 of those new quarts went right back out to the flushing machine which means you only got 7 new quarts. Contrast that to dumping the fluid and putting 7 new quarts in because that's all you can get out by dropping the pan. In the end, both methods end up with a 50-50 mix of old and new oil.
The difference is when you drop the pan to dump it, you also change the filter. The dirty little secret of the "flush" is they don't ever change the filter...EVER!
The other negative to a "flush" is they tap into the cooler lines which could very likely cause a leak down the road.
Don't fall for the "flush" gimmick, get the old "fluid and filter" change!
@@Richard-qz8up yeah I’ve heard horror stories of friends vehicles ruined because of a “flush” from dealership. I’ve always just dropped pan, changed filter and added clean fluid and drain plug to pan. Never had issues
My Trail Boss has 4k mikes and the back suspension squeaks just hitting my driveway. What is all the clicking that occurs when you shut the truck down?
It’s part of the fuel system shutdown cycle. Totally normal.