GM parts guy here. The truck has had an interesting life so far lol It was sold in Montana in July of 2020. It had a couple oil changes at the dealership from which it was sold, had a couple warranty claims done for sensors and stuff failing in the exhaust system. It goes dark for a while, then fast forward four years to February of this year then it pops up in Arizona for a DPF replacement. Then here we are today with a blown engine. I'm surprised by how 'cheap' a new long block is as well. It's only $3,400. The more you know.
Yeah, amazing the prices of the long block - I'm seeing closer to 5K for 12729055 but still thats cheap. Also some crazy labor times on this thing - over 35 hours to do the timing chain.
@@ratbert86 does that mean GM would rather people not replace the timing chain? I know almost nothing about this kind of thing. To me that screams fuck off kind of labor. With something like machining, shops will make really high quotes to try and encourage people to go somewhere else.
@@EBIndyformer dealer tech. Yea they were when they designed that pos timing system. There are no timing marks you have to blindly line up a pin on the back of the crank and put a tool on there and if it fits it’s in time but I can almost fit when it’s a tooth off it’s a bullshit design. Not to mention it’s done like the ford 4.0 chain on the back so engine out job
@ratbert86 You have to pull engine out of truck and remove crankshaft to replace the oil pump belt. Timing cover and timing chain while you're there. 35 hours sounds right
When those engines were announced I was excited about them. A diesel in a 1500 was a perfect truck combo for me. They made the mistake of showing a x-ray view of the engine on line. Three timing chains and an oil pump BELT in the back of the engine. No way, the engineers were smoking crack.
Same design as Millions of Big Rigs running up and down highways for half a century, its a tried and true inline 6. It was co-produced in Germany modeled after the European Cab over designs in big trucks. Those big trucks have a cab that pops up from the back of the cab toward the front to gain full access to engine. GM forgot about that part when they put the belt in the back instead of the front. But I own a 2021 3.0 and its a beast and I love it. No gas engine can compare to these in any phase of the game. They completely dominate the gas engine and drive train. My wife got in my 3.0 and after one trip down the highway she knew something was different and said she wanted a Yukon with the 3.0 engine....and she don't know nothing about engines, but she like me could feel, see and hear the difference immediately!
I actually like a lot of things about this engine. This was tuned. Someone thought they were going to get a lot of extra horsepower cheap. Then things went boom, and they discovered how expensive those extra horsepower really are. Thanks for sticking with it and getting it apart, and bringing us along!
There are a lot of things to like about the engine. BMW n N57/B57 owners feel the same way since they're basically the same engine. Deleting is one thing, but tuning for more power is another. Unless you're the test monkey for some big shop that's willing to replace your engine if they break it, I don't see how someone would gamble so much money on trying to get a little more power when they know GM made a bunch of upgrades (including pistons) when they boosted power with the LZ0. The owner probably bought a "tune" from one of those shops that playing with fuel rail pressure. Gale Banks was talking a while back about tuners that just add more fuel and end up spraying fuel outside of the fuel bowl on the piston. That fuel sprayed outside of the fuel bowl eventually destroys pistons. Especially aluminum pistons like the LM2's.
Yeah but you can throw a tuner on any REAL truck with a REAL diesel engine from the big three (Cummins, Duramax, Powerstroke) and not have any of those turn into piston soup. Bottom line, people shouldnt screw around with these mini diesels in mini trucks, play stupid games and win stupid prizes.
@@hochhaulyeah except the M57 is well overbuilt for what its capable of, and detuned from the factory. The LM2 is not in the same class, it just simply 3.0 straight 6 like the M57
@OneNationUnderGod.45 the problem is these were not tunable for quite some time and the only way to "tune" was to fool the ECM. There are now real tunes available.
My 09 Tahoe only lasted 109k miles with flawless maintenance and no mods before the engine went. After tearing it down to find the problem, I we found the following: Burnt oil residue coated the inside of the valve covers, it had spun a single rod bearing in the journal and was likely due to lack of oiling. When we dropped the oil pan, we could see a repaired section that was welded behind the oil filter. I have photos. The oil pan was never repaired by me and I was the only owner, which meant it came from the factory like that. Upon repairing the engine and ordering a new oil pan/pickup, we noticed the oil return nozzle was different. The old one looked like it would just sprinkler the oil out in all directions while the new one had a plastic cover over the nozzle that would direct the oil to the bottom of the pan where the pickup obviously is. Thanks to it being 9k miles out of warranty, I had to come out of pocket for all repairs. I will never own another GM vehicle as long as I live.
@@chuckymurlo5654 A copyright strike can be bad. Demonetization. Not being able to upload. Banning the channel. Whatever hwhim TH-cam feels. Hwhatever, it isn't worf the risk. 😉
My brother bought a truck 8 months ago with that engine, it was in his driveway for about 4 hours, check engine light came on, went into limp mode and the truck was sent off to the dealership up north, he got the truck back about 2 weeks ago because they have been waiting for that coolant control, GM was making his truck payment the entire time, they called him once a week to update him and tell him that the part was not yet available. Apparently it's made of unobtainium and the backorder list is extensive
@@kalybnielsen4183 smh that’s just disappointing honestly I would’ve bought a used LB7 Duramax but again that’s just crappy on GMs part, they gotta do better
Only unobtainable for spare parts. For the factory business as usual. Though I suspect it is not made by GM but a contracter. As for this engine?? Depends on parts pricing,, the crank will live as will the block with a sleeve and the head as well
I think they might be making a design change. For most guys with the coolant control valve issue, they could open up the actuator and replace the grease on the worm gear. That's what causes 99% of them to stop working. The grease turns gummy for some reason and eventually the worm gear can't move the valve.
I won a Lemon Law case against GM for the same truck, engine and year. That engine was not ready for production in 2020. Now I understand a little more of what happened to my engine.
I was thinking about it for mine, it was in four times for a NOX sensor, turns out it was a crack letting def into the egr ststem. Now having dpf and differential sensor issues two times now. It’s a 2020 and owned It less than two years. Really annoying.
I own the last of these engines (LM2), as my truck was built in June 2022. At 277HP and 460 lb/ft of torque, it's still quite a powerhouse for a 1/2 ton. They're rated for 150K miles before the oil pump belt needs replacing. And yes, it requires the transmission to be dropped to access the back of the engine.
Ridiculous a belt was used in the crankcase that needs periodic replacement. Reminds me of poor decision by Ford to use this same belt idea in their crankcase on 1.0/1.2 l. engines.
When "BLUE" makes his first appearance it's like when the coach brings his best player off the bench to the playing field. The crowd takes notice and chants, "...go, Blue, you can do it!"
GM = Garbage Motors. Hard to find a decent American auto manufacturer these days. The 3 top companies (Chevrolet, Ford, Stellantis) make unreliable rubbish. No wonder Toyota and Honda do so well.
That's GM owners, for some reason. They always talk about how reliable their vehicles are, then talk about how many times they've replaced the engine and/or transmission. They're clearly masochists.
my former work truck was a 6.0 ford. one day 3 injectors failed at the same time. the fuel pressure blew the injector tips off and the broken pieces went through the pistons. it was still running on 5 for about 5-6 minutes. after getting it to a dealer he showed me the pistons and except for a hole the rest of the dead pistons looked melted like these were.
"Everything new is complicated." "People will break anything." Excellent points. As you tear down and perform autopsies on failed engines, I don't know if buying a brand new automobile with the latest greatest forced induction, DOHC four valve per cylinder head with variable valve lift and duration, direct injection and high revving technology is a good investment in the long run. Today's metallurgy, tribology and radiator liquid technology is so far advanced from the 20th century; however, when systems fail, expensive complete replacement can be the only option. It appears that almost any engine work requires removing the lump from the vehicle: be it replacement of water pumps, valve seals, plugs, ignition coils, starters, blown head gaskets etc. Even automatic transmissions are better to be replaced than repaired. You do great work and the videos are educational and entertaining. BTW, be careful with buying those low priced "bargain" used Audis, BMWs, Mercedes Benzes and Porsches.
The conclusion for me is if you don't own a lift and mechanical know how these things are going to bankrupt you with mechanic bills. It's pretty much a default 30 hours of mechanic labor to lift the body off the frame. The electrical diagnostics is another one. You can't just be a hard parts mechanic now a days you need to be up to date with software and auto companies are now making it subscription based. Just to be able to use their software can cost thousands per year.
My 2 cents Theory: It was re-tuned badly and was not fueling correctly and that's what caused the pistons to burn up. The main probably died because once the piston blew through a fail bit it'd have started washing down really badly and was likely dumping diesel on the main bearing every cycle which washed out all the oil. Diesel is a type of oil, but it's not the type of oil you should use on your crankshaft. It... doesn't work too well. Great video and I got all the yelling at the TV "Why don't you just " ideas right too! I'm learning stuff!
When Eric said 'Let's give it a little brap' when getting ready to use the impact wrench to loosen a bolt, I was reminded of a remark I read on some vehicle restoration blog years ago where the writer opined that an impact wrench sounded like a robot breaking wind... :)
I'm so glad you don't do advertisements or channel sponsors. But sourcing that pry bar and slapping a CriCut sticker with the word 'blue' on it would be awesome.
I source from China, I'm sure my field agent could find the factory with a few phone calls. Would be an awesome merch item. I'd buy a few myself to give as gifts!
Dude I like ur calmness when u took apart the engine! Tearing the engine down is the easy part putting all those parts back together is something else!! Big blue got a work out that day!!👍
I come here for the fun. With all that's happening in America and around the world, I need your humor and great attitude. A very sincere Thank You. I hope you never stop.
Definitely a tune it that engine! As a gm tech, gm provides documentation on what to look for on Dmax engines with pictures for damage caused by modifications. That piston damage is over fueling. I am also a turner, that ECM would have needed to be sent to HP Tuners to get unlocked. So i think once they found some engine damage, the dealer scanned the vehicle and found a modified tune, NO WARRANTY. 52:42
As soon as I saw the top of those pistons, my brain screamed "Gasoline!". Why? Air Force; young ignorant Airman; didn't know the truck was a diesel; engine go dead...
As an OLD mechanic, very old, it’s just complete insanity looking at all that stuff you have to remove just to get to the motor. I definitely lived in the right time ( for me anyway) cause there’s no way I would fight all that to be a tech nowadays!!!
Yep I had Ford 300s and 351s laying around. Shame cause I took about 10 good running engines to the scrap yard about 10 years ago. Me and my buddy would fix and destroy 90s f150s. My friend would see one for 1k-2k he would buy it lol.
@user-fk3by8pp5w from Canada too. My 92 gmc sierra was made in canada, even the 32 year old bulbs still work!! Working on the 351 is just plain fun. I can't imagine putting that motor back together!
That was a great tear down Eric... Someone the causes with excessive cylinder heat can be caused by over fueling, or pulling a really big hill, with your foot mashed through the floor, pulling a really heavy load... Over the years I have burned holes in pistons, but it was my fault for trying to push an engine beyond it's limits... High Exhaust temps can also cause this to happen as well, but that is why I'm a big fan of every engine I build gets a new Pryrometer installed automatically, however, these new electronic controlled engines have no parameters to warn a driver of high exhaust temps at the turbo anymore... So you get this situation to happen... Again Thank You Eric for another Great tear down video, I'm hooked like always... Have a great week, and I'll catch you next Saturday...
The ECM does derate power when the EGTs exceed 1,300 degrees. So no reason the driver needs to know. This one is definitely due to one of the plug and plays that fool the ECM to dump in more fuel.
Oh man I wish I could try and get you the one a freind of mine is changing right now. Customer bought a salvage title (so no warranty on it) 2021 with the LM2, he does his own oil changes. Somehow, some way he thinks its okay to "crank the engine over to get all the oil out" when he changes his oil. "I've done it on all my cars". Well...guess what fired up with no oil in the pan, and then ran itself to lockup? Yep, his LM2. Its till waiting on a new turbo for it since it pumped bearing through everything. The funny part? His wife is mad at he dealer for not having a turbo yet because GM doesn't have any, when she should be mad at her husband. Not sure in what world he though its okay to crank an engine over to get all the oil out of it...
If you've ever rebuilt an engine you'll realize that you can't get all of the oil out. As we see in every video, even engines that have been sitting around for years and rolling around in the back of the delivery truck still dump copious amounts of fluids when inverted, then even more when the head comes off. There is no point in waiting for the last few drops during an oil change, let alone trying to drain the oil pump. Cranking the engine dry is pretty much the opposite of pre-filling the oil filter.
The guy`s brain must have been short on oil-aka-`brain matter.` Who starts an engine to get all the oil out while you are changing it? I have changed oil hundreds of times and have never ever done this. Whoever does this it is going to have an expensive episode to deal with at the end.
@@1djbeckerI disagree. The point of waiting for all the oil to drain is that it's a perfect excuse for an extended mid job break, including a beverage of choice
It's so much easier watching you do the work instead of me having to do it! All kidding aside, thanks for taking the time to make the vid so we can learn!
I've been a tech at dealerships for decades. Had my own shop for 15 years. Like every other profession including police officers. Lots of people have tattoos. Furthermore, what I've noticed is that a lot of the techs are actually more articulate than 20 years ago. In fact, some of the service managers complain that techs are more computer wiz kids but lack mechanical aptitude. It's hard to find techs with both great computer skills and computer skills. In any case, I find that most techs at dealerships are pretty damned sharp in my opinion. I don't know where you are going to get your vehicle serviced. Maybe you need to shop around for a better repair shop.
Why would they use a wet belt to drive the oil pump if they use chains for the cams? They must've been designed by 2 completely separate groups of engineers
Because it's a low stress application and the belt is made out of Kevlar. As you can see here, the engine locked up violently and it still didn't snap the belt. They hold up extremely well. You will be in the engine to service the timing chains before that belt will ever fail.
Because they want to spray oil all over the rear main seal so it will leak almost immediately. Designed in Italy. Conceptually awesome engine design, although it was executed very poorly. Typical general motors.
I wanted to see him tear down the Ford 4.6 that Cleetus ran with diesel for engine oil. He did 36 laps around the track before the engine locked up lol
I had a 15 year old 6.6L Duramax come in that was much cleaner than that. The injector return lines were leaking and filled the crankcase with diesel fuel. There was no oil at all in it. Just diesel. The thing was SPOTLESS. I felt guilty getting smudges on it with my fingers...
@@Chris_de_S😂 and tell me how you think the trucking world will get by? 100s of thousands of electric semi-trucks charging off the grid all day every day? Yeah, the grid cant manage everyone running their A/C on hot days
I love this channel! You are so enthusiastic on your intro considering how many motors you tear down. And just funny as heck about your describing at motor motives. Just great info you provide as well. Keep up the teardowns and detective work! -edited because spit out my coffee laughing
These videos always remind me why I always buy brand new vehicles, take care of them, keep the for 10 or 15 years, then sell them. I have an extreme phobia of buying used and someone not taking care of it like I would.
Are you serious? This engine is extremely simple and all of these components could have easily been replaced with the engine in the vehicle. Whoever had this motor just ran an extremely aggressive tune and then ran it hot.
I saw Pinetop on the papers. Pinetop isn’t obscenely hot, but it’s high and mountainous. Nevertheless, when you have an unknown failure in AZ, jumping to a heat problem is a good bet. No matter what the failure is and what failed. 117 in Phoenix. Death Valley is going for a world record of 130.
I live about 25 miles from Death Valley. Yep, it's hot right now. I have a diesel truck to tow my toys and have to be very careful not to melt pistons when climbing 20 mile long hills. I leave behind lots of unused turbo boost.
The engine is running at 190F or 210F. As long as the radiator isn't at its limit, the outside temperature is nearly irrelevant for the engine. It's more of a challenge for hot parts without a thermostat such as a differentia.
I've worked in 135F temps and lasted about 10 - 15 mins. a time. Sweat running like a river. Without a bandana to keep it out of my eyes I couldn't see. Not do that again.
Pinetop is one of the cooler places in Arizona, Obscenely hot is not valid. Example it's summer RN in AZ. It's 92* in Pinetop and 112* in Phoenix. However we can say near Pinetop it is elevation changes, lots of grades. It's possible they tuned it and used it to haul stuff between Phoenix and Pinetop which is a bad combo as from Phoenix lower elevation it's still very hot at times and works the engine wildly hard. Legitimate tuning only more recently became available. I'd venture to bet this has some garbage like a AGDiesel module. 😂
At the 29:00 mark, based on the spray pattern of those two "cleaned" pistons, I'm going to wager that this was just "slightly" tuned, hence the easy warranty denial.
Yeah, my guess was "badly tuned" as well. The amount of carbon (rather, just how little there is) also makes me wonder if there was an EGR (and other emissions) delete.
@@napoleontheclown Yeah those cylinders look really clean. I wonder if one of those shitty tuning boxes that fool rail pressures and whatnot was used, or maybe just really bad tune with really messed up injection quantity and timing.
From what I know as a GM tech, and don't quote me I work on light-medium duty only, these engines have smart coolant control and can even cut coolant flow to the head under low load going down the highway to keep the head warm for emissions purposes. Not sure if that's the cause of this issue but I'm certain it didn't help.
It's not the cause of the engine failure. The engine failed due to a bad tune or more likely a "performance module" being sold online that tricks the ECU into fuel rail pressures. They promise 45 HP for $450. The problems with just boosting fuel pressures is that it changes the spray pattern. That's why the pistons have a star pattern burned on them that's outside of the fuel bowl. The coolant control valve issue is due to the grease inside the worm gear actuator becoming gummy with age. Eventually the motor can't turn the worm gear and it throws a code. Some owners have gotten tired of the wait time for a new valve and just replaced the grease in the gear box.
The consensus seems to be that they tried an aftermarket tuner which fucked up the fuel flow and melted the pistons. Would running it on gasoline do the same?
@@pomz3604 I'd think trying it with gasoline would lead to massive detonation and more scarring of the cylinders from low lubricity fuel. But that's just a guess.
The Carfax report at 48k “Fuel system cleaned/serviced” could be an indication that someone filled the truck with gasoline and they sent it to a shop because it began running poorly. This would 100% melt pistons.
@@mathieuhache1845 I'd guess they did it a 2nd time and figured "$1000+ for a 2nd cleaning is too expensive, I'll just run it...", and here's the result
I don’t think gas would do that. It doesn’t have as much heat as oil. The consensus seems to be they upped the fuel capacity of the injectors and it sprayed outside of the “bowl” and they’re pretty convincing about this
Funny thing is my friend has the i4 minimax version and loves it, but had to get a DPF delete because the sensors kept failing. Loves it for towing his racecar and hauling engines.
@user-tt2lg5kg1ive got a 2023 3.0 duramax. Tow a flatbed trailer 22 ft long with a 7500 lb tractor. No issues about 20mpg when towing too. Pretty good truck.
From what I have come across in being an auto Tech, most of the time this type of damage is due to someone making a big boo boo and put gasoline in a diesel vehicle. Ouch! This is probably why they didn't go to the dealership for warranty coverage and went with a used engine.
@@johnt.848 I said that too, surely he would be able to smell gasoline or diesel!! My diesel car here in the UK has smart refuelling, where the fill neck is covered by a flap that only opens when a diesel nozzle is inserted, because it is thicker than a gas nozzle it pushes the sides out and flips the flap open allowing the diesel nozzle to be fully inserted. A gas nozzle will not be allowed into the neck stopping cross fuelling. Genius.
@@electrickal1 What's wild is people will literally spend >250 hours a year in their car, but taking 15 seconds every 50hrs to double-check they grabbed the correct nozzle is just too time consuming.
I am a retired aircraft machinist/welder and now a diesel mechanic for the local school bus company. I have a ton of cutting tools for taking things out of my way. sawzalls make taking things apart extremely easily. Just finished a full exhaust replacement on a bus and taking them out is quick with a sawzall.
It is fun to watch your videos and see someone else deal with odd connectors and hard-to-remove bolts. The hardest-to-reach or see bolt always seems to be the one that has welded itself in place.
A warranty is only as good as the one willing to honor it. After working at a gm dealership and seeing the system, you will be fighting tooth and nail for that warranty to be honored. And let's be honest, the test of reliability is how long it can go after it's warranty ends.
Instead of getting a new air impact get the Milwaukee 2767-20 high torque 1/2 m18 impact. It will take everything off. Good video, I had a 2018 ecodiesel that sized at 62,000 km and I watch your video on taking one of those apart.
Bought one of these 3.0 duramax brand new... some dude wrecked into us totalling it and we got all our money back! We dodged the bullet (no pun intended) and bought a new H.O cummins 6.7 , 3500 and love it.
So many people ruin these engines by "Tuning the Up via Aftermarket" Modern engines like this are engineered to a cost. There isn't the "Extra Margin" that allowed the old diesels to take bigger Turbos' Higher Boost and more aggressive Injection timing and increased fuel etc!
I guarantee the fool that owned the truck bought one of those "performance modules" from a company like AG Diesel that just fool the computer into boosting fuel rail pressures. That caused the start pattern burned onto the pistons and it's why GM didn't warranty the engine.
Well first of all I doubt this was caused by a aftermarket tuner look more like an injector failure to me because an aftermarket Turner would have done this across all the Pistons not two of the Pistons
@@SHSPVR This was most likely wrong fuel, Injector failure would not be multiple cylinders with the same symptoms, I've seen more than one diesel that has gasoline added to the tank, the burned melted pistons and cylinder bore is very typical of a diesel that has had its fuel diluted with gasoline.
@@johncooper4637 it's because that engine was designed by JICase and Cummins for use in Farm Tractors and industrial equipment where full load operation for hours on end is a MUST! Nothing used in on road vehicles or boats ever works at full load for hours on end! This is why you could turn up a Dodge Cummins 12V and it would still last 500K miles if serviced properly! None of the modern Pickup Diesels are made for AG service which is several levels higher than Big Rig service! It's also why not one Ag company still uses V type diesel engines anymore! Inline 4,6 or7 cylinders are best based on physics! The Duramax 3.0 liter would crap out in a year in Ag service! It doesn't have the bearings and block strength needed for full load operation! The best diesel is one that creates the maximum torque at the lowest RPM. Forget about HP its just for winning races!
I have had the joy of puttering with Evapo-Rust in a scientific-ish fashion lately as I rebuild my 1996 car. I live up north in the USA, soooo rust does happen, but I got the undercarriage rust protector treatment when I bought it from the dealership so I actually still have a car with only 'spots of rust' and 'the suspension is pretty rusty' so I've needed to use a lot of this for suspension parts and bolts and whatnot. My pointers... DO NOT DILUTE THIS STUFF, not even with distilled water. It can be rehydrated using distilled water if the Evapo-Rust starts to evaporate, but keep any refills to near-or-below the amount of water it used to have. If it gets too diluted then the compound that does the magic 'magics itself apart' and the usefulness of the Evapo-Rust drops quickly. Like if you have 200ml of ER and it evaporates down to 100ml, it may still work, but will work better if you add distilled water back up to only 200ml again. If you go much beyond that...and I'm not sure exactly when it goes wrong, I never nailed that down...like 220+ ml as a 'pick a number', the ER color changes to a strange, sickly tan-yellow awfulness and stops being useful. When its pH goes too out of range, the complex breaks down, so... Add or remove water as you wish once it goes to that funny color, but it will never again be useful. It loses its 'doesn't cause rust itself' safety at some point too. Reconstituting condensed EvapoRust mostly works, but do not over-dilute it. IT WORKS FASTER WHEN WARM. It loves to be around 50C/120F or so. It'll eventually do its job at anything above "being frozen", but it is MUCH faster when warmed. If it freezes, it just needs to be thawed to go back to being useful. IT WORKS GREAT IN AN ULTRASONIC CLEANER. Toasty up your cleaner to 50C or so and ER can do amazing things. I have DONE amazing things with it in an ultrasonic cleaner. It breaks up the rust and flakes it out amazingly well. If a LOT of rust flakes off as I clean a part I will generally immediately drain the ultrasonic fluid into some other container (while filtering it...a coffee filter will do pretty well) and wipe out the rust-sediment manually. If you don't, ER will continue to 'eat it', consuming itself on useless material. Avoiding that if you're using it in an ultrasonic device can be a BIG boost to the lifetime of the ER. It eats ALL rust...even from the bottom of the cleaner. Super-rusty parts can ruin the liquid in just days if you leave flakes on the bottom of the bath/whatever. It'll slowly use itself up on the detritus. Wash/wipe it out and then put the solution back into the bath or a bottle or whatever. IF YOU DON'T HAVE ENOUGH TO FILL AN ULTRASONIC CLEANER WITH IT, then just put some in a jelly-jar. Use thin glass or some kind of ultrasound-compatible plastic container. Float it in the ultrasound bath to heat up, then drop parts into your container-within-the-bath. It may not be AS effective as "direct baths without more containers to pass through" could be, but you CAN actually do ultrasonic-pass-through for most common types of household container materials. Just fill the main bath with normal hot water, or your degreasing solution or 'Simple Green' or whatever and float your container in that until it's up to temp. I use this a lot for small bolts and other threaded items. IF YOU DON'T HAVE PRIMER ALREADY CHOSEN OR WHATEVER, LEAVE EVAPO-RUST TO DRY ON IT. Set it aside in a climate-controlled area, somewhere where it won't risk getting too humid or rained on or anything, but if you have no better options, when you take your part out of ER, just shake it out and leave it to dry. It won't (unless you dilute it too much, or rub it off) rust for a couple of days, 'depending on factors', so definitely get rust-protection figured out soon, but ER itself can protect metal surfaces to an extent. Three days is the most I leave a thing if I can help it. YOU CAN USE IT REPEATEDLY. It isn't a catalyst, it's a 'complex'. It can be 'used up' once the ER has removed as much rust as possible, but by that point the liquid is red-almost-black in color. You can also put 'slightly red solution' back into the main bottle without harm, though I personally use a glass screw-top container for my long-term storage needs just so it can't possibly leak or get contaminated outside of what I do to it. Once ER's chemistry 'is full', it simply won't work. The chemical complex it's made of 'grabs iron oxide particles' by bouncing into them, so eventually the complexes are all 'full up' and the Evapo-Rust can't do anything more. USE DEGREASER OF SOME KIND IF YOU WANT TO RUST-REMOVE A PIECE OF METAL THAT IS OILY/GREASY. This stuff is not soap, it is not a miracle-worker that does everything, and you have to wash off the greasy-rusty-spots to make them available for ER to remove rust. "Simple Green" in an Ultrasonic cleaner is pretty good as a degreaser, but then you need to wash out the ultrasonic device between baths if you want to do the "ER in Ultrasound" thing. IF THE RUST IS SUPER-THICK then repeatedly come by the ER bath and scrub the rusty bits with a brass or stainless-steel wire brush or whatever to break it up as the ER weakens it. "Red rust' is larger than the 'iron' it had taken the place of (and also strange crystallography or whatever), and 'black rust' (which ER can cause, as can vinegar, etc) is 'smaller' than red rust, so vinegar or ER or whatever, as it works it'll 'shrink' the rust patch slightly from within, making it so it can often be brushed off by hand (with a wire-brush or whatever) a lot more easily before long. Since you don't have to let the ER do ALL the work it'll save time AND it'll save lifetime of the Evapo-Rust itself too. Any rust it doesn't 'pick up for you' is rust it can get from some other part later on. FILTER IT! When you're done using it, or 'whenever', run it through a coffee filter or something to get any lingering chunks out of it. Again, why let it pick up ALL of the rust in every speck of rust that sank to the bottom while a part was soaking? I like to filter it before I put it into a container for storage, and if its current container is too gross I filter it and put it back after I wipe the container out. This stuff is a tiny bit expensive, but WAY useful. Good luck, and have fun!
I had a 2020 GMC Sierra 1500 with the same engine. What a piece of crap engine! In the shop 4 times with a major engine failure at less than 10000 miles in 2021. After the 4th time back in the shop in 2023, I got rid of it. When I traded it in I had 35k miles on it. What a huge disappointment! Great vid by the way!
8/19/24..Eric, 1st time viewer here in New Orleans area..🎉 Happy Mardi Gras !...not really but enjoyed yur video ✅️. So considering that 40k mile EcoDiesel disassembly with (unbelievable) burned🔥 /deformed pistons with continued burn ☄️ thru (liner?) & into block !...those engine pieces look like our French Quarter streets (filled with debris) after the final night parade! Wow! Fine video for a 79 yr old guy to watch with coffee & much appreciation for your camera close-ups, lighting, shop organization & clear (& humorous) commentary. Nice power & air tools too! Stay safe & carry on!✅️💪🔧⚙️👍🍺😊
In love my Denali 4x4 baby Duramax! 80,000 miles with 30% of the time my 20ftx8.5ft enclosed trailer hauling ultra lux to and from Florida. 13mpg@85mph with trailer 37mpg@60mph w/o trailer. It’s had an afe scorcher max blue on it for 30k with no problems other then the water pump failing at 60,000-ish miles and glow plugs just replaced because they were “exceeding learning limit”. Warranty has taken care of it all. Only 20k until warranty expires but it doesn’t worry me. I love the 10speed trans too. This Eric agrees with Eric. I think someone grabbed the green handle at the fuel pump but didn’t make sure green=diesel. Great job patiently taking that blob of steel/aluminum apart without breaking something!! Also, this engine runs up to 42,000psi injection pressure. Imagine gas/diesel concoction making a 42,000psi blow torch!!
The marks on the piston mean they were adding way too much fuel. Fuel should only be sprayed within the fuel bowl, which caused the pistons to melt. This engine was definitely deleted and tuned. Probably why it looked so clean at the cams
Gale banks says that when you inject more fuel it will take more time to inject that fuel and the piston will travel down the cylinder too far and the fuel injected outside the cup on the cylinder will melt the piston. He got around that with bigger injectors that could inject fuel much faster
Oddly enough, just the other day I caught a Gale Banks short where he explained that just upping the fuel in a diesel for performance leads to spraying outside the bowl and torching pistons. And here, we have a 3.0 Duramax that was "somehow" spraying outside the bowl, and has torched it's pistons. Hrmmmm.....
There's a sketchy shop that's advertising a "tune" for LM2's that just tricks the engine to add more fuel by playing with the fuel rail pressure sensor. Hmm.....
The 3.0 Duramax (LZ0) is the best 1/2 ton truck engine in production right now, in my opinion. I love the smoothness, efficiency and reliability of this powertrain. This particular engine was almost certainly tuned/modified, probably by some fly by night shop or, worse yet, the owner, which is usually a terrible idea. I'm all for upgrading your cat-back exhaust, intake or other basic bolt-ons, but I'll never understand why anyone would ruin a brand new engine that's already really good, while it's still under warranty. Next week I will be ordering a 2025 Silverado RST Z71 double cab with the 3.0 Duramax, my first full size truck in over 20 years (I've been driving midsize trucks) and I expect this to be the best truck I've ever owned...and hopefully my last for a long while.
6:50...Dude, I just want to stop and say how much I appreciate the fact that all, ALL of the videos from u I've watched are all natural ambience, that is, RARE in this day and age. I HAAAATE music thrown in these vids. I aint here to hear music, I'm here to see the tear down and I expect the sounds of the tools and whatever's happening to be present so THAAAAAANK YOUUUUU!! \O>
If you look at the tops of the piston after they been cleaned, you will a starburst type pattern, indicating that this engine was sligthly "tuned", which voided the warranty.
It's a different situation with this engine. This engine failed because someone put a bad tune in it for the big power boost or someone filled the fuel tank with gasoline which will melt pistons. It didn't fail because of a problem with the design.
Whoever designed the oil pump belt on an expensive engine should be made to change the belt or pay for an new engine for a customer when the oil pump belt fails and destroys the engine. Just a stupid design.
5 Grand for a core!!!!! Shop that block around... that area is not very stressed. It MAY be possible to fill in the burned aluminum with weld, machine, new liners and have a good block....At 5 grand, it ought to be worth it for a shop that can do all that work.
I remember when these came out people in the Duramax tuning world all jumped on the bandwagon of offering tunes and turbos for these, they all found out quickly they stop being happy and surviving pretty rapidly if you add anymore juice to a factory motor. They aren't exactly like their bigger brothers that can be pushed a decent bit. After seeing the head off, YIKES that thing was tuned pissing hot looking at the melting from the spray pattern
Yes that spray pattern was insane obviously don't by an amateur tuner! Gale Banks has multiple videos on what happens when you add fuel without adding air!
The fact that the block is aluminum should be been an obvious clue that GM didn't add the engine to the lineup so tuners could turn it into something else. It's a good engine in stock form, especially the 2nd gen LZ0 with upgraded injectors, head design, steel pistons, and turbo. The only reason to mess with tuning with this engine is to delete it.
That's the power of German Engineering.... stock, it's designed within and inch of it's life. They don't take mods making more torque and HP with boost and fueling. Goes to junk almost immediately.
@@bigdaddymak1439 it was a lot easier to get quality and reputable tunes with support and updates back before the EPA went full insanity. I'm lucky i got my sets of tunes before hand. Its nothing but shade tree ripped library guys, or the know nothing but just adds fuel guys. Otherwise its carb/cleanair/epa compliant only tunes that aren't even worth paying for.
I have the same year, same engine. Was plagued with a check engine light. Ended up changing 3 of the glow plugs and the intercooler pump. (All under warantee). This engine has been known to use a lot of oil appaerntly because of a valve seal issue. Mine does not. 96 000 km and still kicking.
On the last coming engine that you tore down, Commons 6 cylinder it look like it got low on oil, then the bearings got hot and the rings got hot hot because the lack of oil.. now how they got water in the oil I don't know.
Not a fan of the design: timing chain at rear (stupid); wet oil pump drive belt (stupid); not 4 bolt main and cross bolted (weak). You buy diesels to PULL and this is NOT built heavy enough.
Or you buy a diesel because it makes 495 lb ft of torque in in a half-ton truck and gets 30 mpg. The 3.0 Duramax is based on an engine design that's been around for decades. BMW has also been using this engine design for decades.
@@craigseymore5054 DEF contamination results in rust and corrosion inside the fuel system, so tank, both pumps, lines and injectors. This is either a badly stuck injector or someone hopped this thing up tune wise and blew it up. Seeing two pistons definitely melted, I'm going with others on badly tuned.
@@craigseymore5054 The spray pattern is out past the fuel bowl. That would suggest the rail pressure was boosted and caused the spray pattern to expand and hit the top around the bowl.
I’d like to know if it threw codes on the way to the blown headgasket or burnt pistons that could have foretold the doom. I’ll withhold comment on the oil pump belt and timing chain in the back. One is annoying, the other is a purely egregious way to limit engine lifespan with exorbitant maintenance costs.
Blown headgasket? Those pistons melted because the fool that owned it bought one of those "perfomance modules" that claims to make up to 45 more HP. All it does is trick the computer into boosting fuel rail pressures. That changes the injector spray pattern. Instead of spraying fuel into the fuel bowl, fuel was spraying onto the top radius of the fuel bowl, super heating the surface and melting it, as well as possibly spraying fuel on the cylinder walls. Gale Banks has videos discussing it. The damaged pistons he shows look hilairously identical to these pistons.
53:03 That's not news, but that is a large part of why I won't touch new stuff. I like simple. I hate complicated. New stuff is complicated. Old stuff is simple.
Hey when I was a Mechanic for Ford, sawzall came in clutch a few times where a torch can't, especially for tops of the shocks on them ford vans since everything rusts here.
Hey Eric….would you like a 3.0 Ford Vulcan out of a 2003 Taurus wagon. I got it hot hot once and replaced the heads after the ahead gaskets failed. One cylinder was torn up but it ran great for 12000 miles after. It always had a tick in it tho. I hydrolocked it in the flooding here in South Dakota. It runs but there’s def damage inside. I’d love to see the inside of that engine. LMK. Yours for the taking. I haven’t seen a Vulcan on here yet.
GM parts guy here. The truck has had an interesting life so far lol It was sold in Montana in July of 2020. It had a couple oil changes at the dealership from which it was sold, had a couple warranty claims done for sensors and stuff failing in the exhaust system. It goes dark for a while, then fast forward four years to February of this year then it pops up in Arizona for a DPF replacement. Then here we are today with a blown engine. I'm surprised by how 'cheap' a new long block is as well. It's only $3,400. The more you know.
Yeah, amazing the prices of the long block - I'm seeing closer to 5K for 12729055 but still thats cheap. Also some crazy labor times on this thing - over 35 hours to do the timing chain.
@@ratbert86 does that mean GM would rather people not replace the timing chain? I know almost nothing about this kind of thing. To me that screams fuck off kind of labor. With something like machining, shops will make really high quotes to try and encourage people to go somewhere else.
35 hours? Someone is smoking crack.
@@EBIndyformer dealer tech. Yea they were when they designed that pos timing system. There are no timing marks you have to blindly line up a pin on the back of the crank and put a tool on there and if it fits it’s in time but I can almost fit when it’s a tooth off it’s a bullshit design. Not to mention it’s done like the ford 4.0 chain on the back so engine out job
@ratbert86 You have to pull engine out of truck and remove crankshaft to replace the oil pump belt. Timing cover and timing chain while you're there. 35 hours sounds right
When those engines were announced I was excited about them. A diesel in a 1500 was a perfect truck combo for me. They made the mistake of showing a x-ray view of the engine on line. Three timing chains and an oil pump BELT in the back of the engine. No way, the engineers were smoking crack.
Same design as Millions of Big Rigs running up and down highways for half a century, its a tried and true inline 6. It was co-produced in Germany modeled after the European Cab over designs in big trucks. Those big trucks have a cab that pops up from the back of the cab toward the front to gain full access to engine. GM forgot about that part when they put the belt in the back instead of the front. But I own a 2021 3.0 and its a beast and I love it. No gas engine can compare to these in any phase of the game. They completely dominate the gas engine and drive train. My wife got in my 3.0 and after one trip down the highway she knew something was different and said she wanted a Yukon with the 3.0 engine....and she don't know nothing about engines, but she like me could feel, see and hear the difference immediately!
Belt drive oil pump? No thanks I'll just get a old beat up truck.
@@douglaswatters7303 whatever floats your boat
@@lifehealth489 sorry a woman has never let you feel warmth and love. Maybe trump will get ya off instead?
@@kingdommusic5456piss into the wind eternally fascist
I actually like a lot of things about this engine. This was tuned. Someone thought they were going to get a lot of extra horsepower cheap. Then things went boom, and they discovered how expensive those extra horsepower really are. Thanks for sticking with it and getting it apart, and bringing us along!
There are a lot of things to like about the engine. BMW n
N57/B57 owners feel the same way since they're basically the same engine. Deleting is one thing, but tuning for more power is another. Unless you're the test monkey for some big shop that's willing to replace your engine if they break it, I don't see how someone would gamble so much money on trying to get a little more power when they know GM made a bunch of upgrades (including pistons) when they boosted power with the LZ0.
The owner probably bought a "tune" from one of those shops that playing with fuel rail pressure. Gale Banks was talking a while back about tuners that just add more fuel and end up spraying fuel outside of the fuel bowl on the piston. That fuel sprayed outside of the fuel bowl eventually destroys pistons. Especially aluminum pistons like the LM2's.
Yeah but you can throw a tuner on any REAL truck with a REAL diesel engine from the big three (Cummins, Duramax, Powerstroke) and not have any of those turn into piston soup. Bottom line, people shouldnt screw around with these mini diesels in mini trucks, play stupid games and win stupid prizes.
@@hochhaulyeah except the M57 is well overbuilt for what its capable of, and detuned from the factory. The LM2 is not in the same class, it just simply 3.0 straight 6 like the M57
@OneNationUnderGod.45 the problem is these were not tunable for quite some time and the only way to "tune" was to fool the ECM. There are now real tunes available.
I don't think it even went boom..It was chugging along merrily then..UH!
My 09 Tahoe only lasted 109k miles with flawless maintenance and no mods before the engine went. After tearing it down to find the problem, I we found the following: Burnt oil residue coated the inside of the valve covers, it had spun a single rod bearing in the journal and was likely due to lack of oiling. When we dropped the oil pan, we could see a repaired section that was welded behind the oil filter. I have photos. The oil pan was never repaired by me and I was the only owner, which meant it came from the factory like that. Upon repairing the engine and ordering a new oil pan/pickup, we noticed the oil return nozzle was different. The old one looked like it would just sprinkler the oil out in all directions while the new one had a plastic cover over the nozzle that would direct the oil to the bottom of the pan where the pickup obviously is. Thanks to it being 9k miles out of warranty, I had to come out of pocket for all repairs. I will never own another GM vehicle as long as I live.
what did it run? $12k?
BS!!!!!! You piss pounded the shit out of it is the reason for your failure, if there even was a failure. Not the engines fault.
Yes, GOOD decision !
@@gunnerneikoifyamazing how you know all of the details of someone you don't know. Almost makes you look like an ignorant ass.
Why did the engine fail then ?
I find your videos so relaxing. Your main object is to teach people that do not have access to these engines.
Thank You.
Laughing at the Carfax Fox's face being blurred. 🤣
You noticed! ❤️
Funny as it may seem, I wouldn't put it past Carfax to hit him with a copyright strike.
...for a frickin fox.
I came here to write this. That was a solid joke😂
What's the fine$$ if you didn't blur out the Fox@sdrape4964
@@chuckymurlo5654
A copyright strike can be bad. Demonetization. Not being able to upload. Banning the channel. Whatever hwhim TH-cam feels.
Hwhatever, it isn't worf the risk. 😉
Eric dated a timing chain guide in high school but she left him for a water pump. This can be the only explanation of his ongoing vendetta.
All these years later and he's still "dating" all his timing chain guides...😂
@@SebBrosig 🤣
All of the comments and most of you didn't bother to watch the whole video.
@@Blacksunshine636how would you even know that?
@@Blacksunshine636.
My brother bought a truck 8 months ago with that engine, it was in his driveway for about 4 hours, check engine light came on, went into limp mode and the truck was sent off to the dealership up north, he got the truck back about 2 weeks ago because they have been waiting for that coolant control, GM was making his truck payment the entire time, they called him once a week to update him and tell him that the part was not yet available. Apparently it's made of unobtainium and the backorder list is extensive
@@kalybnielsen4183 smh that’s just disappointing honestly I would’ve bought a used LB7 Duramax but again that’s just crappy on GMs part, they gotta do better
Only unobtainable for spare parts. For the factory business as usual. Though I suspect it is not made by GM but a contracter.
As for this engine?? Depends on parts pricing,, the crank will live as will the block with a sleeve and the head as well
Is unobtainium easy to obtain?
I think they might be making a design change. For most guys with the coolant control valve issue, they could open up the actuator and replace the grease on the worm gear. That's what causes 99% of them to stop working. The grease turns gummy for some reason and eventually the worm gear can't move the valve.
@@evilbrian66 It's the same for most brands lately. Seems to be an industry thing. Possibly due to the political strain with China.
I won a Lemon Law case against GM for the same truck, engine and year. That engine was not ready for production in 2020. Now I understand a little more of what happened to my engine.
I was thinking about it for mine, it was in four times for a NOX sensor, turns out it was a crack letting def into the egr ststem. Now having dpf and differential sensor issues two times now. It’s a 2020 and owned It less than two years. Really annoying.
@@dnutdluxwhy did you buy a gm product? They've been garbage since the 80's. Nothing has changed.
@@petrosaguilar8916I have an 87 s10 150k miles
14 Camaro ss 90k
2020 Silverado with the 5.3 50k miles no problem with any of them…..
There's plenty of people that love their 3.0
@@petrosaguilar8916false
I own the last of these engines (LM2), as my truck was built in June 2022. At 277HP and 460 lb/ft of torque, it's still quite a powerhouse for a 1/2 ton. They're rated for 150K miles before the oil pump belt needs replacing. And yes, it requires the transmission to be dropped to access the back of the engine.
It's been upped to 200,000 now.
Ridiculous a belt was used in the crankcase that needs periodic replacement. Reminds me of poor decision by Ford to use this same belt idea in their crankcase on 1.0/1.2 l. engines.
I thought it started at 100k and went to 200k, although looks like a bad design to me
@@rondyechannel1399 Who would ever bury a belt inside an engine? What the hell?
@@hootowl6354 GM
“Unsatisfied not knowing the mileage of a 4 year old engine. That’s preposterous!” Always killing me Eric
When "BLUE" makes his first appearance it's like when the coach brings his best player off the bench to the playing field. The crowd takes notice and chants, "...go, Blue, you can do it!"
Guy at work sings the praises of this motor. Less than two years old, he's on his third turbo.
😂😂😂
Should be singing the blues
@@bobcoats2708comment of the day😂
GM = Garbage Motors. Hard to find a decent American auto manufacturer these days. The 3 top companies (Chevrolet, Ford, Stellantis) make unreliable rubbish. No wonder Toyota and Honda do so well.
That's GM owners, for some reason. They always talk about how reliable their vehicles are, then talk about how many times they've replaced the engine and/or transmission. They're clearly masochists.
I love how you still show care to the order on those main caps even though the block is shot.
As someone that probably helped assemble this engine it brings me joy watching you take it apart
On what part of the assembly line?
The fact that you blurred out that mysterious fox's face had me rolling😂
my former work truck was a 6.0 ford. one day 3 injectors failed at the same time. the fuel pressure blew the injector tips off and the broken pieces went through the pistons. it was still running on 5 for about 5-6 minutes. after getting it to a dealer he showed me the pistons and except for a hole the rest of the dead pistons looked melted like these were.
Thank you Eric for your sleuthing abilities, we appreciate your unwavering commitment to finding details and the truth.
"Everything new is complicated." "People will break anything." Excellent points. As you tear down and perform autopsies on failed engines, I don't know if buying a brand new automobile with the latest greatest forced induction, DOHC four valve per cylinder head with variable valve lift and duration, direct injection and high revving technology is a good investment in the long run. Today's metallurgy, tribology and radiator liquid technology is so far advanced from the 20th century; however, when systems fail, expensive complete replacement can be the only option. It appears that almost any engine work requires removing the lump from the vehicle: be it replacement of water pumps, valve seals, plugs, ignition coils, starters, blown head gaskets etc. Even automatic transmissions are better to be replaced than repaired. You do great work and the videos are educational and entertaining. BTW, be careful with buying those low priced "bargain" used Audis, BMWs, Mercedes Benzes and Porsches.
The just keep building better, idiots!
The conclusion for me is if you don't own a lift and mechanical know how these things are going to bankrupt you with mechanic bills. It's pretty much a default 30 hours of mechanic labor to lift the body off the frame. The electrical diagnostics is another one. You can't just be a hard parts mechanic now a days you need to be up to date with software and auto companies are now making it subscription based. Just to be able to use their software can cost thousands per year.
My 2 cents Theory: It was re-tuned badly and was not fueling correctly and that's what caused the pistons to burn up. The main probably died because once the piston blew through a fail bit it'd have started washing down really badly and was likely dumping diesel on the main bearing every cycle which washed out all the oil. Diesel is a type of oil, but it's not the type of oil you should use on your crankshaft. It... doesn't work too well.
Great video and I got all the yelling at the TV "Why don't you just " ideas right too! I'm learning stuff!
No Piston McNuggets this week but we get a 3-piece Crispy Piston meal instead.
The one that melted though the piston rings is a work of art.
those pistons are grilled, not crispy
@@adotintheshark4848 Crispy is funnier....
When Eric said 'Let's give it a little brap' when getting ready to use the impact wrench to loosen a bolt, I was reminded of a remark I read on some vehicle restoration blog years ago where the writer opined that an impact wrench sounded like a robot breaking wind... :)
too funny bro!❤ I gonna share that with my mechanic friend from Ukraine. Gracias
I'm so glad you don't do advertisements or channel sponsors. But sourcing that pry bar and slapping a CriCut sticker with the word 'blue' on it would be awesome.
I source from China, I'm sure my field agent could find the factory with a few phone calls. Would be an awesome merch item. I'd buy a few myself to give as gifts!
Sir. You have the most patience I have ever seen from a Technician. Thank you for sharing!
Dude I like ur calmness when u took apart the engine! Tearing the engine down is the easy part putting all those parts back together is something else!!
Big blue got a work out that day!!👍
I come here for the fun. With all that's happening in America and around the world, I need your humor and great attitude. A very sincere Thank You. I hope you never stop.
What’s happening in America?
@@joe72205 Too much bad stuff. We're run / controlled by absolute MORONS.
@@joe72205 Rich people keep raping poor people but then again its been like this since America was founded so meh
@@joe72205Joe biden happened and is still happening.
@@joe72205 Melt down so far, thanks Brandon!
Definitely a tune it that engine! As a gm tech, gm provides documentation on what to look for on Dmax engines with pictures for damage caused by modifications. That piston damage is over fueling. I am also a turner, that ECM would have needed to be sent to HP Tuners to get unlocked. So i think once they found some engine damage, the dealer scanned the vehicle and found a modified tune, NO WARRANTY. 52:42
Simple as that. Well said.
Over boosting with insufficient fuel will increase EGTs to melt pistons faster. Tuned, but tuned poorly for sure.
Only on a gasoline not on a diesel.A diesel engine always runs unthrottled.
@@ronferguson512 Not in a diesel, it's over fueling with not enough air that causes egt's to go through the roof.
@@eugeneoreilly9356Modern diesels often are throttled now (electronic throttle bodies) due to emissions, excess oxygen results in higher NoX levels.
As soon as I saw the top of those pistons, my brain screamed "Gasoline!". Why? Air Force; young ignorant Airman; didn't know the truck was a diesel; engine go dead...
Ill bet big $ thats the engine outta one of one of our old company trucks. Ill bet on it. And gas is right..... lmao
Aren't the tanks fitted with a restrictor at the neck to prevent the larger gasoline nozzles from entering?
@@robertpeters9438 diesel nozzles are generally larger
@@whiskerbiscuit99 yes
I thought the same thing. Girlfriend thinks she is doing the guy a favor.
This engine holds the record for most bolts holding down a valve cover.
As an OLD mechanic, very old, it’s just complete insanity looking at all that stuff you have to remove just to get to the motor. I definitely lived in the right time ( for me anyway) cause there’s no way I would fight all that to be a tech nowadays!!!
Yep I had Ford 300s and 351s laying around. Shame cause I took about 10 good running engines to the scrap yard about 10 years ago. Me and my buddy would fix and destroy 90s f150s. My friend would see one for 1k-2k he would buy it lol.
Amen!
@user-fk3by8pp5w from Canada too. My 92 gmc sierra was made in canada, even the 32 year old bulbs still work!! Working on the 351 is just plain fun. I can't imagine putting that motor back together!
All that extra crap is to someone trying to work on it.😮
New cars are so much easier to work on if you have an IQ above 90
That was a great tear down Eric... Someone the causes with excessive cylinder heat can be caused by over fueling, or pulling a really big hill, with your foot mashed through the floor, pulling a really heavy load... Over the years I have burned holes in pistons, but it was my fault for trying to push an engine beyond it's limits... High Exhaust temps can also cause this to happen as well, but that is why I'm a big fan of every engine I build gets a new Pryrometer installed automatically, however, these new electronic controlled engines have no parameters to warn a driver of high exhaust temps at the turbo anymore... So you get this situation to happen... Again Thank You Eric for another Great tear down video, I'm hooked like always... Have a great week, and I'll catch you next Saturday...
Putting gas in a diesel can cause some pretty serious meltdowns too.
The ECM does derate power when the EGTs exceed 1,300 degrees. So no reason the driver needs to know. This one is definitely due to one of the plug and plays that fool the ECM to dump in more fuel.
@@91CavGT5 Can depend, in the MB I drove, the manual said to use ⅓ petrol when below -10C temps.
@hang cool story bra
The injector spray pattern burned into multiple cylinders is a dead give away that this engine was a victim of tuner abuse.
Oh man I wish I could try and get you the one a freind of mine is changing right now. Customer bought a salvage title (so no warranty on it) 2021 with the LM2, he does his own oil changes. Somehow, some way he thinks its okay to "crank the engine over to get all the oil out" when he changes his oil. "I've done it on all my cars". Well...guess what fired up with no oil in the pan, and then ran itself to lockup? Yep, his LM2. Its till waiting on a new turbo for it since it pumped bearing through everything. The funny part? His wife is mad at he dealer for not having a turbo yet because GM doesn't have any, when she should be mad at her husband. Not sure in what world he though its okay to crank an engine over to get all the oil out of it...
If you've ever rebuilt an engine you'll realize that you can't get all of the oil out. As we see in every video, even engines that have been sitting around for years and rolling around in the back of the delivery truck still dump copious amounts of fluids when inverted, then even more when the head comes off.
There is no point in waiting for the last few drops during an oil change, let alone trying to drain the oil pump. Cranking the engine dry is pretty much the opposite of pre-filling the oil filter.
What a tard
The guy`s brain must have been short on oil-aka-`brain matter.` Who starts an engine to get all the oil out while you are changing it? I have changed oil hundreds of times and have never ever done this. Whoever does this it is going to have an expensive episode to deal with at the end.
@@1djbeckerI disagree.
The point of waiting for all the oil to drain is that it's a perfect excuse for an extended mid job break, including a beverage of choice
@@1djbecker Fully aware. Seen plenty of engines apart. Obviously the customer hasn't lol.
I love that you can see the injection pattern in the relief in the piston
It's so much easier watching you do the work instead of me having to do it! All kidding aside, thanks for taking the time to make the vid so we can learn!
It is soooo great to see a smart articulate mechanic who is not covered head to toe with ridiculous tattoos. Thank you.
Tattoos have nothing to do with anything DUM DUM
I've been a tech at dealerships for decades. Had my own shop for 15 years. Like every other profession including police officers. Lots of people have tattoos. Furthermore, what I've noticed is that a lot of the techs are actually more articulate than 20 years ago. In fact, some of the service managers complain that techs are more computer wiz kids but lack mechanical aptitude. It's hard to find techs with both great computer skills and computer skills.
In any case, I find that most techs at dealerships are pretty damned sharp in my opinion. I don't know where you are going to get your vehicle serviced. Maybe you need to shop around for a better repair shop.
He's not that smart. After all he bought a full sized truck that had a 3.0 turd in it
As a smart articulate person with head to toe tattoos, you suck
@@ghostrider.13The guy in the video bought the engine core.. not the truck.. I don't think I'd be judging intelligence if I were you.
Why would they use a wet belt to drive the oil pump if they use chains for the cams?
They must've been designed by 2 completely separate groups of engineers
Because it's a low stress application and the belt is made out of Kevlar. As you can see here, the engine locked up violently and it still didn't snap the belt. They hold up extremely well. You will be in the engine to service the timing chains before that belt will ever fail.
Apparently it was done to lessen the noise the engine makes, it is a pretty quiet engine
Because they want to spray oil all over the rear main seal so it will leak almost immediately. Designed in Italy. Conceptually awesome engine design, although it was executed very poorly. Typical general motors.
And both sets of engineers were idiots
Look into obtaining the three cars Cleetus just trashed - those engines would all show a lot of carnage…
I wanted a tear down of the Caprice engine that they ran gasoline in place of oil
That guy rocks the greatest Beavertail Mullet in modern history.
Stay gold.
I wanted to see him tear down the Ford 4.6 that Cleetus ran with diesel for engine oil. He did 36 laps around the track before the engine locked up lol
I had a 15 year old 6.6L Duramax come in that was much cleaner than that. The injector return lines were leaking and filled the crankcase with diesel fuel. There was no oil at all in it. Just diesel. The thing was SPOTLESS. I felt guilty getting smudges on it with my fingers...
Diesel is dead - move on fools.
@@Chris_de_S All real men love the smell of Diesel!
@@Chris_de_S😂 and tell me how you think the trucking world will get by? 100s of thousands of electric semi-trucks charging off the grid all day every day? Yeah, the grid cant manage everyone running their A/C on hot days
I love this channel! You are so enthusiastic on your intro considering how many motors you tear down. And just funny as heck about your describing at motor motives. Just great info you provide as well. Keep up the teardowns and detective work! -edited because spit out my coffee laughing
These videos always remind me why I always buy brand new vehicles, take care of them, keep the for 10 or 15 years, then sell them. I have an extreme phobia of buying used and someone not taking care of it like I would.
Seeing all these over engineered complicated nightmares really motivates me to keep pampering my 25 and 30 yo stuff. lol Thanks for the video!
Amen, not buying anything new ever, my old 1999 is cheap to fix eng or trans,
Agreed on this .. everything 2010 and up is a no go for me almost feels like they are designed to fail at this point
Time limited by the Michigan rot.@@anthonybertone2336
Are you serious? This engine is extremely simple and all of these components could have easily been replaced with the engine in the vehicle. Whoever had this motor just ran an extremely aggressive tune and then ran it hot.
@@saucemaster2 how is that engine simple
I saw Pinetop on the papers. Pinetop isn’t obscenely hot, but it’s high and mountainous. Nevertheless, when you have an unknown failure in AZ, jumping to a heat problem is a good bet. No matter what the failure is and what failed. 117 in Phoenix. Death Valley is going for a world record of 130.
I live about 25 miles from Death Valley. Yep, it's hot right now. I have a diesel truck to tow my toys and have to be very careful not to melt pistons when climbing 20 mile long hills. I leave behind lots of unused turbo boost.
The engine is running at 190F or 210F. As long as the radiator isn't at its limit, the outside temperature is nearly irrelevant for the engine.
It's more of a challenge for hot parts without a thermostat such as a differentia.
Pinetop is actually one of the cooler areas in Arizona. It's usually about 25-30 degrees cooler than Phoenix, it's closer to Flagstaff in climate.
I've worked in 135F temps and lasted about 10 - 15 mins. a time. Sweat running like a river. Without a bandana to keep it out of my eyes I couldn't see. Not do that again.
Pinetop is one of the cooler places in Arizona, Obscenely hot is not valid. Example it's summer RN in AZ. It's 92* in Pinetop and 112* in Phoenix. However we can say near Pinetop it is elevation changes, lots of grades. It's possible they tuned it and used it to haul stuff between Phoenix and Pinetop which is a bad combo as from Phoenix lower elevation it's still very hot at times and works the engine wildly hard. Legitimate tuning only more recently became available. I'd venture to bet this has some garbage like a AGDiesel module. 😂
OK now we're gonna need to see a giant Duesenberg engine on the channel.
I'd love to see a Ford GAA used in Shermans during WW22 :P
What about a 928 engine instead?
A real Dusenburg? Or one of those 80s Dusenburgs that were specially skinned Buicks or whatever?
Oh, wouldn't that be great. I agree.
I think Jay Leno did a rebuild on one. He had to have parts made for it.
I put 84k on a LM2, no issues or complaints. Great mileage and power, it was the best of both worlds.
The gas idea seems to be the best guess ! People make mistakes ! Diesel gets hot but not like gas !
At the 29:00 mark, based on the spray pattern of those two "cleaned" pistons, I'm going to wager that this was just "slightly" tuned, hence the easy warranty denial.
Yeah, my guess was "badly tuned" as well. The amount of carbon (rather, just how little there is) also makes me wonder if there was an EGR (and other emissions) delete.
Maybe aftermarket turbo?
I thought the only deletes for these were from shady tuners.. so maybe?
@@napoleontheclown Yeah those cylinders look really clean. I wonder if one of those shitty tuning boxes that fool rail pressures and whatnot was used, or maybe just really bad tune with really messed up injection quantity and timing.
@@RickJohnson somebody tuning a diesel pickup?! Who would do such a thing?
From what I know as a GM tech, and don't quote me I work on light-medium duty only, these engines have smart coolant control and can even cut coolant flow to the head under low load going down the highway to keep the head warm for emissions purposes. Not sure if that's the cause of this issue but I'm certain it didn't help.
It's not the cause of the engine failure. The engine failed due to a bad tune or more likely a "performance module" being sold online that tricks the ECU into fuel rail pressures. They promise 45 HP for $450. The problems with just boosting fuel pressures is that it changes the spray pattern. That's why the pistons have a star pattern burned on them that's outside of the fuel bowl. The coolant control valve issue is due to the grease inside the worm gear actuator becoming gummy with age. Eventually the motor can't turn the worm gear and it throws a code. Some owners have gotten tired of the wait time for a new valve and just replaced the grease in the gear box.
I truly believe you nailed it…that Duramax didn’t like gasoline diet!!!
The consensus seems to be that they tried an aftermarket tuner which fucked up the fuel flow and melted the pistons. Would running it on gasoline do the same?
@@pomz3604 I'd think trying it with gasoline would lead to massive detonation and more scarring of the cylinders from low lubricity fuel. But that's just a guess.
The Carfax report at 48k “Fuel system cleaned/serviced” could be an indication that someone filled the truck with gasoline and they sent it to a shop because it began running poorly. This would 100% melt pistons.
@@mathieuhache1845 I'd guess they did it a 2nd time and figured "$1000+ for a 2nd cleaning is too expensive, I'll just run it...", and here's the result
I don’t think gas would do that. It doesn’t have as much heat as oil. The consensus seems to be they upped the fuel capacity of the injectors and it sprayed outside of the “bowl” and they’re pretty convincing about this
A rubber belt running in oil is a bad idea. Remember what happened to the Ford diesel engines.
it really is a shit design in general,im pretty sure the ford 1.0 turbo also has a belt drivin pump and the belts internal
@@camman9235It spells disaster for these Ford engines.
it will be very interesting for everyone to see a Toyota Tundra V6 turbo engine tear down! BTW Good work!
Are you joking? Toyota engines don't fail. Scotty Kilmer said so...
@@jeepinintexas6215like all reputable brands, they are known for reliability so now they can skimp on that area for some extra profits
Traded my first 3.0 Duramax in @ 121k. Aside from some sensor replacements and DEF issues the engine was rock solid. Have a 2024 now.
So you never towed anything
@@JulioSanchez-l7oor he just left it stock
Funny thing is my friend has the i4 minimax version and loves it, but had to get a DPF delete because the sensors kept failing. Loves it for towing his racecar and hauling engines.
@@JulioSanchez-l7o why do you say that
@user-tt2lg5kg1ive got a 2023 3.0 duramax. Tow a flatbed trailer 22 ft long with a 7500 lb tractor. No issues about 20mpg when towing too. Pretty good truck.
From what I have come across in being an auto Tech, most of the time this type of damage is due to someone making a big boo boo and put gasoline in a diesel vehicle. Ouch! This is probably why they didn't go to the dealership for warranty coverage and went with a used engine.
Wouldn't Eric be able to tell when pulling the rails and the fuel runs out?
@@johnt.848 I said that too, surely he would be able to smell gasoline or diesel!!
My diesel car here in the UK has smart refuelling, where the fill neck is covered by a flap that only opens when a diesel nozzle is inserted, because it is thicker than a gas nozzle it pushes the sides out and flips the flap open allowing the diesel nozzle to be fully inserted. A gas nozzle will not be allowed into the neck stopping cross fuelling. Genius.
@@electrickal1 What's wild is people will literally spend >250 hours a year in their car, but taking 15 seconds every 50hrs to double-check they grabbed the correct nozzle is just too time consuming.
As a mechanic, I 100% absolutely have a sawzall in my toolbox
And a grinder
I have 3...
Amen.
I am a retired aircraft machinist/welder and now a diesel mechanic for the local school bus company. I have a ton of cutting tools for taking things out of my way. sawzalls make taking things apart extremely easily. Just finished a full exhaust replacement on a bus and taking them out is quick with a sawzall.
If you don't have a sawzall in your toolbox then the shop has one.
It is fun to watch your videos and see someone else deal with odd connectors and hard-to-remove bolts. The hardest-to-reach or see bolt always seems to be the one that has welded itself in place.
Thanks!
Thank you!
48:13
You're a dad. NEVER apologize! We dads appreciate it 😁
The Duramax came with a 5 year 100k mile warranty. The 2.7 Turbomax gas gets the same warranty now. Keep that in mind when you get another one.
That might be the warranty for the 6.6 Duramax in the 3/4- and 1-ton pickups. Is the 1/2-ton engine the same warranty?
A warranty is only as good as the one willing to honor it. After working at a gm dealership and seeing the system, you will be fighting tooth and nail for that warranty to be honored. And let's be honest, the test of reliability is how long it can go after it's warranty ends.
Pretty lame.
Warranty doesn't mean neglect 😅😅 is covered.
They will always find a way to void your warranty .
Instead of getting a new air impact get the Milwaukee 2767-20 high torque 1/2 m18 impact. It will take everything off. Good video, I had a 2018 ecodiesel that sized at 62,000 km and I watch your video on taking one of those apart.
Bought one of these 3.0 duramax brand new... some dude wrecked into us totalling it and we got all our money back! We dodged the bullet (no pun intended) and bought a new H.O cummins 6.7 , 3500 and love it.
Love my '21 Silverado crew cab with the 3.0. Constantly get 42mpg on the hiway. Great engine!!!
So many people ruin these engines by "Tuning the Up via Aftermarket" Modern engines like this are engineered to a cost. There isn't the "Extra Margin" that allowed the old diesels to take bigger Turbos' Higher Boost and more aggressive Injection timing and increased fuel etc!
The Cummins 5.9 12 valve is a case in point. In the Dodge it was stock 180 HP but the same engine in a boat was 300 HP.
I guarantee the fool that owned the truck bought one of those "performance modules" from a company like AG Diesel that just fool the computer into boosting fuel rail pressures. That caused the start pattern burned onto the pistons and it's why GM didn't warranty the engine.
Well first of all I doubt this was caused by a aftermarket tuner look more like an injector failure to me because an aftermarket Turner would have done this across all the Pistons not two of the Pistons
@@SHSPVR This was most likely wrong fuel, Injector failure would not be multiple cylinders with the same symptoms, I've seen more than one diesel that has gasoline added to the tank, the burned melted pistons and cylinder bore is very typical of a diesel that has had its fuel diluted with gasoline.
@@johncooper4637 it's because that engine was designed by JICase and Cummins for use in Farm Tractors and industrial equipment where full load operation for hours on end is a MUST! Nothing used in on road vehicles or boats ever works at full load for hours on end! This is why you could turn up a Dodge Cummins 12V and it would still last 500K miles if serviced properly! None of the modern Pickup Diesels are made for AG service which is several levels higher than Big Rig service! It's also why not one Ag company still uses V type diesel engines anymore! Inline 4,6 or7 cylinders are best based on physics! The Duramax 3.0 liter would crap out in a year in Ag service! It doesn't have the bearings and block strength needed for full load operation! The best diesel is one that creates the maximum torque at the lowest RPM. Forget about HP its just for winning races!
"Do you know how many degrees were in there? Must have been no room left!" 😂
I have had the joy of puttering with Evapo-Rust in a scientific-ish fashion lately as I rebuild my 1996 car. I live up north in the USA, soooo rust does happen, but I got the undercarriage rust protector treatment when I bought it from the dealership so I actually still have a car with only 'spots of rust' and 'the suspension is pretty rusty' so I've needed to use a lot of this for suspension parts and bolts and whatnot. My pointers...
DO NOT DILUTE THIS STUFF, not even with distilled water. It can be rehydrated using distilled water if the Evapo-Rust starts to evaporate, but keep any refills to near-or-below the amount of water it used to have. If it gets too diluted then the compound that does the magic 'magics itself apart' and the usefulness of the Evapo-Rust drops quickly. Like if you have 200ml of ER and it evaporates down to 100ml, it may still work, but will work better if you add distilled water back up to only 200ml again. If you go much beyond that...and I'm not sure exactly when it goes wrong, I never nailed that down...like 220+ ml as a 'pick a number', the ER color changes to a strange, sickly tan-yellow awfulness and stops being useful. When its pH goes too out of range, the complex breaks down, so... Add or remove water as you wish once it goes to that funny color, but it will never again be useful. It loses its 'doesn't cause rust itself' safety at some point too. Reconstituting condensed EvapoRust mostly works, but do not over-dilute it.
IT WORKS FASTER WHEN WARM. It loves to be around 50C/120F or so. It'll eventually do its job at anything above "being frozen", but it is MUCH faster when warmed. If it freezes, it just needs to be thawed to go back to being useful.
IT WORKS GREAT IN AN ULTRASONIC CLEANER. Toasty up your cleaner to 50C or so and ER can do amazing things. I have DONE amazing things with it in an ultrasonic cleaner. It breaks up the rust and flakes it out amazingly well. If a LOT of rust flakes off as I clean a part I will generally immediately drain the ultrasonic fluid into some other container (while filtering it...a coffee filter will do pretty well) and wipe out the rust-sediment manually. If you don't, ER will continue to 'eat it', consuming itself on useless material. Avoiding that if you're using it in an ultrasonic device can be a BIG boost to the lifetime of the ER. It eats ALL rust...even from the bottom of the cleaner. Super-rusty parts can ruin the liquid in just days if you leave flakes on the bottom of the bath/whatever. It'll slowly use itself up on the detritus. Wash/wipe it out and then put the solution back into the bath or a bottle or whatever.
IF YOU DON'T HAVE ENOUGH TO FILL AN ULTRASONIC CLEANER WITH IT, then just put some in a jelly-jar. Use thin glass or some kind of ultrasound-compatible plastic container. Float it in the ultrasound bath to heat up, then drop parts into your container-within-the-bath. It may not be AS effective as "direct baths without more containers to pass through" could be, but you CAN actually do ultrasonic-pass-through for most common types of household container materials. Just fill the main bath with normal hot water, or your degreasing solution or 'Simple Green' or whatever and float your container in that until it's up to temp. I use this a lot for small bolts and other threaded items.
IF YOU DON'T HAVE PRIMER ALREADY CHOSEN OR WHATEVER, LEAVE EVAPO-RUST TO DRY ON IT. Set it aside in a climate-controlled area, somewhere where it won't risk getting too humid or rained on or anything, but if you have no better options, when you take your part out of ER, just shake it out and leave it to dry. It won't (unless you dilute it too much, or rub it off) rust for a couple of days, 'depending on factors', so definitely get rust-protection figured out soon, but ER itself can protect metal surfaces to an extent. Three days is the most I leave a thing if I can help it.
YOU CAN USE IT REPEATEDLY. It isn't a catalyst, it's a 'complex'. It can be 'used up' once the ER has removed as much rust as possible, but by that point the liquid is red-almost-black in color. You can also put 'slightly red solution' back into the main bottle without harm, though I personally use a glass screw-top container for my long-term storage needs just so it can't possibly leak or get contaminated outside of what I do to it. Once ER's chemistry 'is full', it simply won't work. The chemical complex it's made of 'grabs iron oxide particles' by bouncing into them, so eventually the complexes are all 'full up' and the Evapo-Rust can't do anything more.
USE DEGREASER OF SOME KIND IF YOU WANT TO RUST-REMOVE A PIECE OF METAL THAT IS OILY/GREASY. This stuff is not soap, it is not a miracle-worker that does everything, and you have to wash off the greasy-rusty-spots to make them available for ER to remove rust. "Simple Green" in an Ultrasonic cleaner is pretty good as a degreaser, but then you need to wash out the ultrasonic device between baths if you want to do the "ER in Ultrasound" thing.
IF THE RUST IS SUPER-THICK then repeatedly come by the ER bath and scrub the rusty bits with a brass or stainless-steel wire brush or whatever to break it up as the ER weakens it. "Red rust' is larger than the 'iron' it had taken the place of (and also strange crystallography or whatever), and 'black rust' (which ER can cause, as can vinegar, etc) is 'smaller' than red rust, so vinegar or ER or whatever, as it works it'll 'shrink' the rust patch slightly from within, making it so it can often be brushed off by hand (with a wire-brush or whatever) a lot more easily before long. Since you don't have to let the ER do ALL the work it'll save time AND it'll save lifetime of the Evapo-Rust itself too. Any rust it doesn't 'pick up for you' is rust it can get from some other part later on.
FILTER IT! When you're done using it, or 'whenever', run it through a coffee filter or something to get any lingering chunks out of it. Again, why let it pick up ALL of the rust in every speck of rust that sank to the bottom while a part was soaking? I like to filter it before I put it into a container for storage, and if its current container is too gross I filter it and put it back after I wipe the container out.
This stuff is a tiny bit expensive, but WAY useful. Good luck, and have fun!
Cool story bro
I had a 2020 GMC Sierra 1500 with the same engine. What a piece of crap engine! In the shop 4 times with a major engine failure at less than 10000 miles in 2021. After the 4th time back in the shop in 2023, I got rid of it. When I traded it in I had 35k miles on it. What a huge disappointment! Great vid by the way!
8/19/24..Eric, 1st time viewer here in New Orleans area..🎉 Happy Mardi Gras !...not really but enjoyed yur video ✅️. So considering that 40k mile EcoDiesel disassembly with (unbelievable) burned🔥 /deformed pistons with continued burn ☄️ thru (liner?) & into block !...those engine pieces look like our French Quarter streets (filled with debris) after the final night parade! Wow! Fine video for a 79 yr old guy to watch with coffee & much appreciation for your camera close-ups, lighting, shop organization & clear (& humorous) commentary. Nice power & air tools too! Stay safe & carry on!✅️💪🔧⚙️👍🍺😊
In love my Denali 4x4 baby Duramax! 80,000 miles with 30% of the time my 20ftx8.5ft enclosed trailer hauling ultra lux to and from Florida. 13mpg@85mph with trailer 37mpg@60mph w/o trailer. It’s had an afe scorcher max blue on it for 30k with no problems other then the water pump failing at 60,000-ish miles and glow plugs just replaced because they were “exceeding learning limit”. Warranty has taken care of it all. Only 20k until warranty expires but it doesn’t worry me. I love the 10speed trans too.
This Eric agrees with Eric. I think someone grabbed the green handle at the fuel pump but didn’t make sure green=diesel.
Great job patiently taking that blob of steel/aluminum apart without breaking something!!
Also, this engine runs up to 42,000psi injection pressure. Imagine gas/diesel concoction making a 42,000psi blow torch!!
I find it hard to believe your getting 37 mpg empty. Im lucky to get 27.
@@davidmills5405 me too. That's better than a Toyota corolla. Probably around the same mpg at a real world Prius. Maybe it was downhill 🤣
You're towing a 20ft trailer at 85mph? You need castrating!
I get 32 at 65mph in iowa@@davidmills5405
@@davidmills5405he said at 60mph. That’s possible
I have the same truck with this motor, thank you for sharing this tear down.
The marks on the piston mean they were adding way too much fuel. Fuel should only be sprayed within the fuel bowl, which caused the pistons to melt. This engine was definitely deleted and tuned. Probably why it looked so clean at the cams
Gale banks says that when you inject more fuel it will take more time to inject that fuel and the piston will travel down the cylinder too far and the fuel injected outside the cup on the cylinder will melt the piston. He got around that with bigger injectors that could inject fuel much faster
@@daddi275that makes sense. Never thought of that
A rubber belt inside of a engine with oil!........yeah that is set up for fail!
So the gasket faliure caused the damage too the Pistons by leakimg coolant into cylinders ??? Wouldmt that be covered undsr warranty ?
Oddly enough, just the other day I caught a Gale Banks short where he explained that just upping the fuel in a diesel for performance leads to spraying outside the bowl and torching pistons.
And here, we have a 3.0 Duramax that was "somehow" spraying outside the bowl, and has torched it's pistons. Hrmmmm.....
There's a sketchy shop that's advertising a "tune" for LM2's that just tricks the engine to add more fuel by playing with the fuel rail pressure sensor. Hmm.....
@@hochhaulyea and no added boost 😢
Blue needs its own theme music for when it first appears on screen.
1970's porn music 😂
"Mr. Blue Sky" by E.L.O.
45k and it failes? That's GM for ya ! JUNK !!!!
I don’t think it failed from its own doing.
I have the 2.8 Diesel in my Canyon.
I"m on motor #2 failure @ 94k
I'm done with GM.
Still better than a Ford
@@timothygibney159 Both are better than a FIAT.
Which is a pointless comment to make, as well.
The 3.0 Duramax (LZ0) is the best 1/2 ton truck engine in production right now, in my opinion. I love the smoothness, efficiency and reliability of this powertrain. This particular engine was almost certainly tuned/modified, probably by some fly by night shop or, worse yet, the owner, which is usually a terrible idea. I'm all for upgrading your cat-back exhaust, intake or other basic bolt-ons, but I'll never understand why anyone would ruin a brand new engine that's already really good, while it's still under warranty. Next week I will be ordering a 2025 Silverado RST Z71 double cab with the 3.0 Duramax, my first full size truck in over 20 years (I've been driving midsize trucks) and I expect this to be the best truck I've ever owned...and hopefully my last for a long while.
HA HA HA you knew EXACTLY what I was yelling at the screen about loosening the mains!!!! 🤣🤣
6:50...Dude, I just want to stop and say how much I appreciate the fact that all, ALL of the videos from u I've watched are all natural ambience, that is, RARE in this day and age. I HAAAATE music thrown in these vids. I aint here to hear music, I'm here to see the tear down and I expect the sounds of the tools and whatever's happening to be present so THAAAAAANK YOUUUUU!!
\O>
He’s gonna be a car tuber star for sure. Ridiculously good at making great videos I really want to watch!
I agree!
Agree!
If you look at the tops of the piston after they been cleaned, you will a starburst type pattern, indicating that this engine was sligthly "tuned", which voided the warranty.
Probably that AG Diesel module that messes with the signal for fuel rail pressure.
Every diesel have this pattern, it is completely normal, and in no way an indication for tuning.
@@HomelabExtreme Shouldn't have a pattern, or very little, outside of the centre bowl.
@@HomelabExtreme False.
When I worked at a Nissan dealer we didn't send cvt transmissions back, they had so many bad that they didn't want the cores
It's a different situation with this engine. This engine failed because someone put a bad tune in it for the big power boost or someone filled the fuel tank with gasoline which will melt pistons. It didn't fail because of a problem with the design.
What causes such to happen to the pistons ? Diesels are supposed to be super durable due to being a compression ignition engine
So I am guessing that the cylinders do not have sleeves in them? And could the owner have run Nitrous and that ruined the motor?
Once I learned this engine has its oil pump belt on the bell housing side made me go from Fo to No. Shame on GM for going that route.
Whoever designed the oil pump belt on an expensive engine should be made to change the belt or pay for an new engine for a customer when the oil pump belt fails and destroys the engine. Just a stupid design.
@@darrellbobyk6363 I changed one in just over an hour first time
@@jeremybroderick9465 bullshit
The belts are supposed to be good for 200,000 miles? I put about 6,000 miles per year on mine so I'll likely never hit that mark.
Ford is using an oil pump belt on the 5.0 2021 and newer... The belt removes some harmonics within the engine.
Hey Eric thanks for your videos!! Rock on 🤘
5 Grand for a core!!!!! Shop that block around... that area is not very stressed. It MAY be possible to fill in the burned aluminum with weld, machine, new liners and have a good block....At 5 grand, it ought to be worth it for a shop that can do all that work.
You know you have to change the oil in it too..And put oil in it,,😢😮😅
Your videos and "destructive analysis" as we say in my line of work, are very interesting! Thank you for shedding light on these engine failures!
What's the weight difference between the REALLY melty one and a good one? i'm curious to see how much material was lost from the piston
I’d be curious too. I bet some aluminum exited the turbo and got melted in the DEF device
I come here to see blue, that other guy, Eric or whatever his name is ain't bad either but blue is the real draw...
Yeah, me too blues the main character of the show
I remember when these came out people in the Duramax tuning world all jumped on the bandwagon of offering tunes and turbos for these, they all found out quickly they stop being happy and surviving pretty rapidly if you add anymore juice to a factory motor. They aren't exactly like their bigger brothers that can be pushed a decent bit. After seeing the head off, YIKES that thing was tuned pissing hot looking at the melting from the spray pattern
Yes that spray pattern was insane obviously don't by an amateur tuner! Gale Banks has multiple videos on what happens when you add fuel without adding air!
The fact that the block is aluminum should be been an obvious clue that GM didn't add the engine to the lineup so tuners could turn it into something else. It's a good engine in stock form, especially the 2nd gen LZ0 with upgraded injectors, head design, steel pistons, and turbo. The only reason to mess with tuning with this engine is to delete it.
That's the power of German Engineering.... stock, it's designed within and inch of it's life. They don't take mods making more torque and HP with boost and fueling. Goes to junk almost immediately.
@@feloniousmonk3049 problem is most tuning is garbage. Gale Banks talks about it all the time
@@bigdaddymak1439 it was a lot easier to get quality and reputable tunes with support and updates back before the EPA went full insanity. I'm lucky i got my sets of tunes before hand. Its nothing but shade tree ripped library guys, or the know nothing but just adds fuel guys. Otherwise its carb/cleanair/epa compliant only tunes that aren't even worth paying for.
I have the same year, same engine. Was plagued with a check engine light. Ended up changing 3 of the glow plugs and the intercooler pump. (All under warantee). This engine has been known to use a lot of oil appaerntly because of a valve seal issue. Mine does not. 96 000 km and still kicking.
On the last coming engine that you tore down, Commons 6 cylinder it look like it got low on oil, then the bearings got hot and the rings got hot hot because the lack of oil.. now how they got water in the oil I don't know.
Not a fan of the design: timing chain at rear (stupid); wet oil pump drive belt (stupid); not 4 bolt main and cross bolted (weak). You buy diesels to PULL and this is NOT built heavy enough.
Or you buy a diesel because it makes 495 lb ft of torque in in a half-ton truck and gets 30 mpg. The 3.0 Duramax is based on an engine design that's been around for decades. BMW has also been using this engine design for decades.
GM guaranteed malfunction
@karl BMW is another trash company
@@mann_idonotreadrepliesnot even really a GM engine, look into it.
You can see the spray pattern at 46:40. Definitely a tuned motor. It’s spraying way out of the bowl.
Could have been DEF or gas in the diesel that damaged the injectors.
@@craigseymore5054 DEF contamination results in rust and corrosion inside the fuel system, so tank, both pumps, lines and injectors. This is either a badly stuck injector or someone hopped this thing up tune wise and blew it up. Seeing two pistons definitely melted, I'm going with others on badly tuned.
Someone bought one of those $500 "performance modules" from AG Diesel. I hope that supposed 45 HP boost was worth it.
@@craigseymore5054 The spray pattern is out past the fuel bowl. That would suggest the rail pressure was boosted and caused the spray pattern to expand and hit the top around the bowl.
@@hochhaultiming was advanced with tune, I see it with 6.7l Cummins that blow head gaskets.
those melty pistons are spectacular.
How does a diesel piston melt? Did someone add a few gallons of gasoline to the fuel and run it by mistake?
Impressed that you disassemble outside bolts to inside bolts and alternate end to end. That is the correct way.
I’d like to know if it threw codes on the way to the blown headgasket or burnt pistons that could have foretold the doom. I’ll withhold comment on the oil pump belt and timing chain in the back. One is annoying, the other is a purely egregious way to limit engine lifespan with exorbitant maintenance costs.
Blown headgasket? Those pistons melted because the fool that owned it bought one of those "perfomance modules" that claims to make up to 45 more HP. All it does is trick the computer into boosting fuel rail pressures. That changes the injector spray pattern. Instead of spraying fuel into the fuel bowl, fuel was spraying onto the top radius of the fuel bowl, super heating the surface and melting it, as well as possibly spraying fuel on the cylinder walls. Gale Banks has videos discussing it. The damaged pistons he shows look hilairously identical to these pistons.
Is anyone else thinking that some young kid put a shoddy tune into his truck's engine computer and blew it up immediately after? 😂😂😂
Yep,I think a bro was behind this tragedy.
Oil pump belt? No, game over.
Plus lift kit, supersize tires, 8 inch exhaust tip, and last but not least, brass bull balls hanging from hitch! Yep we’re figuring this out.
some of these kids are enthusiastically brainless ...
@kdead aka truck ricer
53:03 That's not news, but that is a large part of why I won't touch new stuff. I like simple. I hate complicated. New stuff is complicated. Old stuff is simple.
Cool. story. Bro.
How many "simple" diesel injection pumps have you rebuilt?
@artforz Simpler than the digital clusterfuck governing modern engines 🤷 Also far more reliable and far more obedient.
Hey when I was a Mechanic for Ford, sawzall came in clutch a few times where a torch can't, especially for tops of the shocks on them ford vans since everything rusts here.
Hey Eric….would you like a 3.0 Ford Vulcan out of a 2003 Taurus wagon. I got it hot hot once and replaced the heads after the ahead gaskets failed. One cylinder was torn up but it ran great for 12000 miles after. It always had a tick in it tho. I hydrolocked it in the flooding here in South Dakota. It runs but there’s def damage inside. I’d love to see the inside of that engine. LMK. Yours for the taking. I haven’t seen a Vulcan on here yet.
This would; be awesome