Super excited for this! I've got less than 2k miles on my '24 LZ0 and just pre-ordered! I've been eagerly anticipating this release. I think PPE is working on one also, but your explanation is wonderful, and I found your fuel saver kit to be of excellent high quality. I can't wait to add another VSE product to my system! Thank you guys for taking the time to develop this and telling us about all of the relevent information related to it. There's no doubt that you really care about your work and put your heart and soul into your products.
Very cool product and nice presentation. I would recommend changing from the sight glass on the product though, I know many companies like using those and they have been used on air compressor pumps for like ever but they are not that great over time. They are too small and hard to read or see through many times. Just have the catch can with the long hydraulic oil level indicator or even better just make the main portion of the can out of a strong clear plastic so you can see through the whole thing. Way more user friendly for the customer.
I have 55k mile in mine and it’s an amazing engine. I’ve averaged as high as 42 mpg and 20 mpg while towing. It sips fuel, has tons of torque, and has been very reliable.
Those numbers don’t sound possible in that truck. I was averaging 32, and 16 mpg when towing, before the dealership flashed my exp with an update, now I’m getting 25mpg.🤬
I have a 2020 3.0 and I have also gotten as high as 42 mpg (in the Fl keys), I average around 14 mpg pulling a small (5000 lb) travel trailer. My around town average is about 25 mpg, my usual interstate roads travel is about 31 mpg. For me it has been a great engine.
@@jgyrwa I can consistently get 32-35 mpg on the highway, my highest is 45 mpg while driving in a city (40 mph, I timed the lights so I barely stopped)
Very cool and Tks . Two questions. 1, when is it available and 2. Quick question on the turbo. I’m new to diesels and have the LZ0. When you run the engine for a long time, I was told to let the truck idle for a minute or two to make sure the turbo cools down so the oil won’t cook in there. Does this engine still circulate oil (turbo saver style) or coolant after you shut down the engine or should I continue to let her idle to bring down the temps. If so how long. Many Tks.
Its a ball bearing turbocharger and these trucks have auto start / stop from OEM. The turbo is ok if you don't let it idle - although it is much better on it if it is allowed to idle for 5-10 seconds prior to turning it off - great question!
@@runvse Tks. By the way I shut off the auto stop start. I don’t think it’s good for the life of the turbo or the engine to go on and off to safe a couple pennies of diesel E.
Nice new product. I am going to definitely be looking to add to my new 24 Sierra. And to think I only thought Harleys needed a catch can. Got one on it too.
If you are watching this video because you are having oil consumption issues then you might have a bad valve cover weld. It is a known problem and there’s a TBS out for and it’s covered under warranty. The warranty includes the replacement of the valve cover and the #2 glow plug. You must first see if you qualify by checking the serial number on the valve cover.
What precautions have you taken to deal with this icing up in cold weather? These things can be a nightmare in northern states that routinely have below zero temps. I had a catch can that would ice up to the point it blocked all flow. Had to drain it once a week.
It's wild you'd even consider buying this junk, this is hardly the tip of the iceberg when it comes to issues for this engine, not to mention the issues the 10 speed transmission has that it's mated to. Trucks cost way to much for you to have to doctor them up right off the lot.
@@MatthewFischer-k9o "this is hardly the tip of the iceberg when it comes to issues for this engine" Listen if you want to be a hater/a clown be smart about it, this is one of the best engines GM has put out in a long time. The 10 speed transmission is used by Ford and GM for like 8 years and is relatively bullet proof (depending on the specific vehicles/software). Also there is nothing to "doctor them right off the lot", this problem is 100% caused by the government and exists in EVERY VEHICLE in the USA with a Turbo. That includes toyota, bmw, mercedes, ford, etc etc etc. BY LAW car companies have to route filthy oil/water contaminated air back into the engine. On naturally aspirated engines, this isnt a huge problem because gasoline will break it down so long as the engine gets toasty. On a turbo it builds up and causes issues, especially on diesel.
The early ford 3.5 eco boost had this problem and I simply drilled a 1/8" hole in the bottom of the heat exchanger and it drained onto the ground as needed. The heat exchanger was down under the radiator at the time.
Your products are great! I have pre-ordered. What measures should I take prior to installation to clean existing components? My LZO has 30K + miles. Thank you.
Sorry, I was wondering why you wouldn’t just use a Mann ProVent 200 CCF? I can certainly appreciate the nice Billet machining, but trying to reinvent the wheel may not be worth it. Please correct me if your system is doing something different. I’ve used the Mann ProVent 200 Filter on my Japanese Diesel’s, and now my Porsche Cayenne Diesel with great success. Regardless a great explanation. 🇳🇿🇨🇦
We found it to increase crankcase pressure more than factory - and that is what we were try to avoid all together. The screen area seems to be too restrictive once it has any run time on it and to reseal this motor after it starts leaking from excessive crank case pressure it has to be pulled for a reseal.
Crazy that oil coming out of the device that you’re fixing that gets hot enough to bake oil all looks like it just came out of a jug. No dark color whatsoever. Perfect amber oil.
So I wonder if this problem is the root cause of the “reduced acceleration” warning message that displayed this weekend along with very loud fan noise? Engine coolant temp gage was reading normal. 2022 w/35k miles.
I had the same happen at about 44k miles. Dealer said it was the coolant control valve. Waiting for part as there are not many around. Am also wondering if this is the cause.
I just purchased a 2024 Yukon XL Denali. I have made two attempts to install your catch can, it doesn't fit in the area designated for the can. The battery positive cable is in the way and cannot be deflected enough to ge the can mounted. It also does not look like it will fit even if the battery cable is able to be replaced. Please advise.
My 2021 Denali lasted 2750 miles. Engine leaked oil from the block. They never told me why, if cracks or improper castings. They just replaced the engine. By 5000 miles, the new engine would crank and never started again. Lemon Law got me all my money back but not worth the headaches!
Yeah why are concerned private inventors having to create aftermarket components to fix major design flaws? I just bought a 2010 Toyota Sequoia after a lifetime of Chevys always needing something four times a year.
@@lloydgood9836 Its always the moronic toyota fan girls. The US government forces ALL car manufactures to route dirty air (water and oil contaminated) back to the engine. Normally this is not a problem on naturally aspirated engines because gasoline is an excellent solvent and will burn it away. Diesel is not a solvent and this has a turbo which is a lot more sensitive to dirty air. Every car, yes that includes your god, Toyota, which uses Turbos (almost every toyota model is turbo charged now) has this issue. You don't NEED this product your engine will run slightly worse over time, but this won't prevent anything from breaking. There are plenty of these diesels with hundreds of thousands of miles by now without major issues. Keep with your 12 mpg toyota and ill be enjoying my 30-35 mpg diesel powerhouse that can tow anything like its nothing.
Great video. I'll have to get one for my new ZR2 with the LZ0. At how many miles would you say you would need to clean out the heat exchanger if you dont have a catch can?? 15k? 20k?
Great question. We tested them in -20F and below conditions right here in Nebraska this winter. The Venturi and baffling will keep it operating just like OEM
@@sierracatThat was the owner of the company responding. The oil /water will sit in the can until you drain it. When you start the truck you will have CCV around 100F rolling through the CCV and it will maintain the system over and over until you drain it. There really isn't a way water to build up and plug the system due to the baffling and the ventri. Even if it did it would lift the crossover relief between the supply and return hoses to prevent the system from having any issues
Absolutely not. Both of our trucks were serviced with the catch cans on them and pointed out to the dealers directly. The Magnuson Moss warranty act would prevent warranty denial as a result of these being installed www.ftc.gov/legal-library/browse/statutes/magnuson-moss-warranty-federal-trade-commission-improvements-act
How quickly will yall know if this will fit on the 2025 suburban? Not sure if they would shift any placement. Planning to order one once available or a gmc but no dif there.
Do you have a video instructions for people like me that have never worked on a truck. I did put on catch can on my last truck a Eco 150. But, the video helped a ton.
It will not. It is connected in similar fashion to OEM. We are also protected by this act www.ftc.gov/legal-library/browse/statutes/magnuson-moss-warranty-federal-trade-commission-improvements-act
No it shouldn't, the law says they have to prove that this part caused said damage. That being said if you installed it wrong and your turbo ate the tubing thats on you.
Hey Tom, do the LZ0's have an issue with burning oil? There are conflicting stories on this but i am curious of your thoughts as i look at buying a new truck in the next year. Also hear that the 3.0 uses a lot of def when under a load/towing. Is this true and are there remedies if so? I don't know much about diesels and am just starting to research before i buy. Looking at the Chevy 1500 high country 3.0 Great vid
"Also hear that the 3.0 uses a lot of def when under a load/towing." Thats normal, the more diesel you burn the more DEF as well. However DEF is really a nothing burger. I use roughly 2.5 gallons every oil change which costs me about $7-$8. Recently I took a long term under heavy load (full cargo, 85 mph entire trip, roughly 3k miles) and I used around 2.5 gallons. Recently I switched to having my dealership do the oil changes because they have a great service plan where they change the oil, rotate the tires, and top off the DEF for $89 each trip. Mind you the oil and filter alone costs me $80 if I were to buy it on amazon, so the deal is a no brainer for me. When I was looking at the diesel people tried to scare me about DEF, cost of oil changes, and extra costs like fuel filters. DEF is nothing. The oil changes are a bit tricker since most places don't carry the oil used by GM (or at least didn't). Amazon sells it but like I said for me the dealership was a better bang for the buck. At some point there will likely be much cheaper oil on the market but if you already don't do your own oil changes youll pay roughly the same. Fuel filters need to be changed more often on diesel, roughly every 20k is good. Its very easy takes about 10 minutes to do it yourself with the right tools and just 2 minutes to prime the pump (hold the start button for 5 seconds without the break) and you're done. All that being said I switched from Ford to Chevy to get their light duty diesel. Ive done about 20k miles on it so far, towing, road trips, everything in between and it is the best engine I have ever had. I can easily get 30-35 mpg by driving good on the highway and 25-27 mpg in the city. When I tow you can't even feel it, the engine barely needs to down shift even on hills. I will not get another car unless it has a diesel, by far the smoothest and most efficient truck engine I've driven.
My 21 3.0 is north of 70k miles. The mileage has actually improved as the miles have gone up. The coolant control valve has and long crank has been the only issues. The long crank was fixed with a re-flash. I don’t feel there is anything to be gained here.
@@SuperBuggerboo He is right, the engine will work fine with blow by, unfortunately the federal government requires all engines have to deal with this nonsense. The heat exchanger eventually cooks off oil especially if you drive long/hot/hard. This is one of those things that give you a 1-2% improvements for those who want ultimate peace of mind.
what? the factory is "Basically a heater hose.' I have had my vse CCV on my l5p for 150k, no issues with the "heater hose." Touch some grass, test for yourself, criticize your hypotheticals with real world proof.
@@LegendaryFarm84 you act like it’s ridiculous to question running a rubber hose 2 inches over a turbo that hits hundreds Fahrenheit. Stock hoses don’t sit right above it. And maybe I’d know more if I hadn’t been waiting for 3 months on my truck
@@BabyGators you're right you have it figured out. What is your solution ? I can't wait to hear this so I can take a childs advice on what I should change out my 300c rated pcv hoses to. You can add a 1200c insulator sleeve to it and really make it unnecessary. what about the plastic engine cover? wrap that too?
Question, i didn’t quite understand in the video about the heat exchanger being clean or something about those lines. With the catch can installed, should the heat exchanger supposedly clean itself off right? Because it’s now getting cleaner air, am I correct?
Correct the heat exchanger will stay cleaner since the CCV will now have the oil drop out of the air stream and into the catch can prior to it being delivered to the turbo inlet (then the heat exchanger)
When is lz0 tuning going to be available, or at least trans tuning, I hate how it hunts for gears when towing, I'd like to lock in a gear like Fords and downshift or upshift as needed
@karlschauff7989 Yes, correct, but you can't lock it in gear like you can in a ford. For example, let's say I'm towing a trailer and the truck is hunting between gears, even though lzo has enough torque not to hunt for gears, in a ford you can manually put it in your desired gear and it will not upshift or downshift no matter what unless you come to a stop.
This is the same hose material that actually lays on top of the motor and routes around to the back of the turbo. These are exposed to far less heat than that. Good question though !
we found it far to restrictive and it ended up increasing crank case pressure far to much over factory once there is any run time in it. Plus it relives the CCV to the atmosphere if there is an issue which is technically a violation of CARB and us EPA regulations
This may have been answered already. But, I've got about 1000 miles on my 2024 Sierra(LZ0). With that kind of mileage, would it be at all worth pulling the exchanger and clean while installing the catch can? Or with that kind of mileage is it basically negligible? Thank ya!
Honestly this whole thing is to catch 1-2% improvements. Engines have been forced by the federal government to do this for years and we arent seeing failures or issues. If you drive long / hard for a bit to really get the engine and heat exchanger hot it will likely burn off any oil sitting in there.
The water vapor doesn't flash off and if it really did then we wouldn't have oil / water vapor sitting inside of the heat exchanger that we pulled off our truck. The reason the water vapor doesn't just flash off is because you have the system under pressure while driving (boost pressure) The increase in pressure increasing the boiling point of the water (saturation temperature, and is part of basic thermodynamics and fluid hydraulics) As an example the typical turbo discharge temperatures of these trucks driving around under load is 200-250F at 18-25psig of boost. Saturation temperature of water at 20psig is 258.8F. This means that the water vapor leaving the turbo at say a max of 250F is 8 degrees subcooled so the water can't possibly flash at that point. You can look these values up right on the steam tables for saturation pressure. Further - the temperature drops as the charge airflow passes through the heat exchanger and typically exists around 120F under the conditions above. We know without looking at a steam table that the saturation temperature at sea level for water is 212F so at 120F the water can't possibly be flashing off since it is at a minimum 92F subcooled.
@@trumpiomost likely this is a fake account we are responding to - but research and understand basic steamtables and icenthalpic expansion through a heat exchanger - you will see what we are talking about and why there is an issue here. A heat exchanger with cast ends isn't more efficient - thermally more heat from the engine bay is conducted through the cast and warms the air inside the heat exchanger by a large margin. This is why, as an example the PPE heat exchanger has to be larger to overcome the thermal conductivity through the casting. OEM uses plastic because of low thermal conduction as well as cost of production.
basic steam table link www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiMp5i4-_OEAxV9FjQIHT4GDWsQFnoECBUQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.milwaukeevalve.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2Ftechnical-service-information%2FSteamTable.pdf&usg=AOvVaw28ooJgNqIA1q2QuuLkINlS&opi=89978449
@runvse Great explanation helped me to understand thank you. The only reason I questioned is in my line of work in gas compression if we have vapors in our oil it flashes off when we are around 210-230 degrees.
@@kilo2330 Correct - it all depends on saturation temperature. Water boils off at 212F at 14.6psia (0psig) but if we raise the pressure it raises the boil off temperature (saturation temperature) The outlet of the heat exchanger is vastly lower in temp which allows a fair amount of condensation from the oil vapor to come out of the mixture and enter the combustion chamber
The module stays in place, just run the bolt out, run our bolt into the existing bracking and used the nut we supply to bolt the catch can in place. It takes about 30 min to install.
@@runvse it seems that the hoses and wiring harness would be a tight fit and would cause rubbing issue between the three, this leading to a hole in the or exposed wiring. Of course this won’t happen right away, but it seems possible to happen over time.
@@gasparsperformance9841the hoses come out an an angle and do not rub on anything. one you install it it is good for years if not decades with no maintenance other than draining on the oil change intervals
@@runvse my truck has a wiring harness that’s on top of the turbo and goes towards a module that sits on top of the battery. I see that the truck you showed in your video doesn’t have that wire harness or module. I’m not sure if this is something that was changed on the LZ0 or if that module pertains to trucks with certain features
There is nothing to change, this is a federal mandate all engines have to deal with it. You should absolutely get the LZ0. Stuff like this is to chase a 1-2% improvement at best.
The heat exchanger should make it through the warranty period shouldn't it? Then it's increased parts/service sales for the dealership. GM, gotta love 'em!
No different than any other brand. Like Ford switching to oil pump belts on the 2.7 Ecoboost and 5.0 Coyote, and then purposely routing the belt behind the timing chain so you're paying for an oil pump belt service and and timing chain service in one go. You end up with an oil pump belt service that's more expensive to do than the rear belt on the 3.0 Dmax.
this is an ordinary oil dump) crankcase gas separator... where did the $350 price come from? I can take any tank, ban it under the hood, buy it for low-resistance slugs and all this will come out at $70... such a thing is worth me on hemi 6.1)
Doesn’t GM know about this issue? If so, why do the considered it “not an issue”. I’ve seen ford mechanics say catch cans do nothing to help save the Ford blow by…. All of this is Government EPA heavy handed ness. These diesel’s have to be as clean as a gas engine yet they get significantly better mileage. The better mileage alone makes them cleaner than a gasoline engine due to 25-20% less fuel burnt.
"If so, why do the considered it “not an issue”. " because it really isn't. The heat exchanger eventually cooks off the oil. This is one of those things that MAYBE it will be like 1-2% better or get SLIGHTLY more miles before needing a replacement turbo.
@@slalomking Thats an absolute lie. When I tow with my diesel I get 22 mpg, which you have to drive perfectly in a v8 with premium to get close to that number. If you tow with the v8 you are down to 9-12 mpg MAXIMUM.
This is an awesome innovation! I may need to give GM some additional time to work out the bugs of this engine. The first generation had the timing chains in the rear of the engine and the second is blowing oil into the intercooler. They just need more time to work on a solution to the issues. I'm sure it's an awesome engine..
" I may need to give GM some additional time to work out the bugs of this engine." The federal government mandates that ALL engines have to blow oil and water back into the intercooler/engine. This is not a bug but an actual federal requirement. That being said it is an awesome engine, I can get 30-35 mpg on it easy and tows like a dream. I drove from Houston to Tampa and only needed to fill up 1 and 1/2 times going 85 mph almost the entire way.
Timestamp: Six minutes & 35 seconds. Re: Condensed water vapor droplets are not good for turbine blades. "Micro dings" at turbine speeds they are like little rocks.
@@MrChadw1974 Also they dont trust the owner to remember to empty the catch can. I have used a catch can for over 10 years in my supercharged camaro. These are nothing new.. and they definitely work and are worth it if you intend to have your vehicle for a while.
@@Nominale_ I guess that’s the alternative to camshaft bearing replacement. It’s actually not a bad design at all. Thanks for sharing this with me I’m a John Deere mechanic and one of my buddies working with me told me this. I have a 3.0 d max, so far good for me
The fact that you have to do these things to new vehicles (ecoboosts are the same) is...quite ridiculous to me. I appreciate your engineering and what you are doing, but I just can't get over the fact that these new trucks are designed/tested so poorly anymore. You shouldn't be doing this, the GM engineers should.
or just leave the drain hose open and extend it down by the frame rail? why bother with draining it. then it just acts like a normal pcv removal kit like had been done on duramax trucks for years
@@David-yy7lb at 15k miles a year it would take 13 years before needing service. Plenty of chain driven systems have failures. The belt can be changed in a day and is designed for servicing. It’s a mountain out a molehill criticism.
Am also new to this your video is awsome can dumb it down how this will save my oil consumption problem so i can explain this to my wife damn thats alot of money but if it saves oil in the long run then yeah sign me up thanks in advance
If they did that you'd complain about it being cheap plastic from China. It's billet or a stamping, and stampings require more work to assemble and add threads and connectors to.
For a $55k plus truck, this makes no sense to require any additional add ons, or aftermarket parts. America needs to build better products, and provide better services. I’m pissed because I own a LM2.🤬
Why is it up to after market jobs to find solutions to, and the buyer to pay for these agregious engineering mistakes??!!! The Manufacturers should replace this or fix the problem ABSOLUTELY FREE with what they want for vehicles now adays.
So your upgrade removes 100% of the oil and gunk from the air ? Its activly cooled rifht becuse your not pulling it all out without condensing it somewhere and just like all catch cans they warm up and stop working. People and their clickbait titles let you know that a company is garbage. Hope this also fixes the wet belt timing that fails you into 20k long block job.
Maybe research how the CCV system actually works. Air flows through the CCV system and enters the catch can as a mixture of oil/water. They are both heavier than air. The higher density items settle in the bottom of the can. CCV at its highest enters around 120-130F which means water will still condense as the temperature of the can is lower than the temperature of the CCV - that's how condensation works - we didn't invent classic physics, but we do live by them.
Super excited for this! I've got less than 2k miles on my '24 LZ0 and just pre-ordered! I've been eagerly anticipating this release. I think PPE is working on one also, but your explanation is wonderful, and I found your fuel saver kit to be of excellent high quality. I can't wait to add another VSE product to my system! Thank you guys for taking the time to develop this and telling us about all of the relevent information related to it. There's no doubt that you really care about your work and put your heart and soul into your products.
No worries! We love making products for these trucks as well as many others !
@@runvse when is the catch can set up for my l5p being released? have ccv delete and I am waiting on the catch can
Won’t it void the warranty?
@@grouchosays like anything else they would have to prove that it caused any failure, but a catch can isn’t going to cause any engine failure.
Tell your dealer to pay for it.
Very cool product and nice presentation. I would recommend changing from the sight glass on the product though, I know many companies like using those and they have been used on air compressor pumps for like ever but they are not that great over time. They are too small and hard to read or see through many times. Just have the catch can with the long hydraulic oil level indicator or even better just make the main portion of the can out of a strong clear plastic so you can see through the whole thing. Way more user friendly for the customer.
Will you do a how-to install video? Would be great if the removal and cleaning of the heat exchanger were included!
They do sell a $1,600 heat exchanger.....
I have 55k mile in mine and it’s an amazing engine. I’ve averaged as high as 42 mpg and 20 mpg while towing. It sips fuel, has tons of torque, and has been very reliable.
Can you give some more details on how you got that kind of mileage?
Those numbers don’t sound possible in that truck. I was averaging 32, and 16 mpg when towing, before the dealership flashed my exp with an update, now I’m getting 25mpg.🤬
I have a 2020 3.0 and I have also gotten as high as 42 mpg (in the Fl keys), I average around 14 mpg pulling a small (5000 lb) travel trailer. My around town average is about 25 mpg, my usual interstate roads travel is about 31 mpg. For me it has been a great engine.
@@jgyrwa I can consistently get 32-35 mpg on the highway, my highest is 45 mpg while driving in a city (40 mph, I timed the lights so I barely stopped)
It looks like a must have.
Post a link to order when they're shipping, ready to order.
Here is the link - shipping will start in a couple weeks !
runvse.com/2020-2024-vse-lm2-lz0-ccv-catch-can/
@@runvse pre-ordered!
Very cool and Tks . Two questions. 1, when is it available and 2. Quick question on the turbo. I’m new to diesels and have the LZ0. When you run the engine for a long time, I was told to let the truck idle for a minute or two to make sure the turbo cools down so the oil won’t cook in there. Does this engine still circulate oil (turbo saver style) or coolant after you shut down the engine or should I continue to let her idle to bring down the temps. If so how long. Many Tks.
Its a ball bearing turbocharger and these trucks have auto start / stop from OEM. The turbo is ok if you don't let it idle - although it is much better on it if it is allowed to idle for 5-10 seconds prior to turning it off - great question!
@@runvse Tks. By the way I shut off the auto stop start. I don’t think it’s good for the life of the turbo or the engine to go on and off to safe a couple pennies of diesel
E.
@@hammer-rWe tune them out as well for permanent disable
@runvse is there a video on how to disable the auto start/stop?
Nice new product. I am going to definitely be looking to add to my new 24 Sierra. And to think I only thought Harleys needed a catch can. Got one on it too.
every vehicle with a PCV system should have one, the new low friction rings are causing more and more blowby, this is much needed
What! No Interociter or backwash doflicker?
If they are supposed to run with a couple inches of vacuum why do they all have blowby?
If you are watching this video because you are having oil consumption issues then you might have a bad valve cover weld. It is a known problem and there’s a TBS out for and it’s covered under warranty. The warranty includes the replacement of the valve cover and the #2 glow plug. You must first see if you qualify by checking the serial number on the valve cover.
This is awesome. Thanks guys. Hopefully we can order it to Canada when you’re ready to release it.
We ship worldwide - except to china where they just copy everything this country makes
@@runvse aka spelab lol
What precautions have you taken to deal with this icing up in cold weather? These things can be a nightmare in northern states that routinely have below zero temps. I had a catch can that would ice up to the point it blocked all flow. Had to drain it once a week.
The venturi seems to be the solution for that potential problem, along with draining the can at proper intervals for your use.
As someone looking at a new LZ0 thank you! Added part to my list :)
It's wild you'd even consider buying this junk, this is hardly the tip of the iceberg when it comes to issues for this engine, not to mention the issues the 10 speed transmission has that it's mated to.
Trucks cost way to much for you to have to doctor them up right off the lot.
@@MatthewFischer-k9o "this is hardly the tip of the iceberg when it comes to issues for this engine" Listen if you want to be a hater/a clown be smart about it, this is one of the best engines GM has put out in a long time. The 10 speed transmission is used by Ford and GM for like 8 years and is relatively bullet proof (depending on the specific vehicles/software). Also there is nothing to "doctor them right off the lot", this problem is 100% caused by the government and exists in EVERY VEHICLE in the USA with a Turbo. That includes toyota, bmw, mercedes, ford, etc etc etc. BY LAW car companies have to route filthy oil/water contaminated air back into the engine. On naturally aspirated engines, this isnt a huge problem because gasoline will break it down so long as the engine gets toasty. On a turbo it builds up and causes issues, especially on diesel.
How are the 2024 redesigned 3.0l doing?
Same as the 23 LZO
There should be a video how to install for those who are not familiar with installing
The early ford 3.5 eco boost had this problem and I simply drilled a 1/8" hole in the bottom of the heat exchanger and it drained onto the ground as needed. The heat exchanger was down under the radiator at the time.
Your products are great! I have pre-ordered. What measures should I take prior to installation to clean existing components? My LZO has 30K + miles. Thank you.
With miles that low we recommend just bolting the catch can in place and then letting the heat and clean air clean the oil out
Sorry, I was wondering why you wouldn’t just use a Mann ProVent 200 CCF?
I can certainly appreciate the nice Billet machining, but trying to reinvent the wheel may not be worth it.
Please correct me if your system is doing something different.
I’ve used the Mann ProVent 200 Filter on my Japanese Diesel’s, and now my Porsche Cayenne Diesel with great success.
Regardless a great explanation.
🇳🇿🇨🇦
We found it to increase crankcase pressure more than factory - and that is what we were try to avoid all together. The screen area seems to be too restrictive once it has any run time on it and to reseal this motor after it starts leaking from excessive crank case pressure it has to be pulled for a reseal.
Crazy that oil coming out of the device that you’re fixing that gets hot enough to bake oil all looks like it just came out of a jug. No dark color whatsoever. Perfect amber oil.
So I wonder if this problem is the root cause of the “reduced acceleration” warning message that displayed this weekend along with very loud fan noise? Engine coolant temp gage was reading normal. 2022 w/35k miles.
I had the same happen at about 44k miles. Dealer said it was the coolant control valve. Waiting for part as there are not many around. Am also wondering if this is the cause.
Does this void the warranty
I just purchased a 2024 Yukon XL Denali. I have made two attempts to install your catch can, it doesn't fit in the area designated for the can. The battery positive cable is in the way and cannot be deflected enough to ge the can mounted. It also does not look like it will fit even if the battery cable is able to be replaced. Please advise.
Nice simple solution! is this an issue on the 6.6L as well? I'm new to diesel, learning before I buy one.
My 2021 Denali lasted 2750 miles. Engine leaked oil from the block. They never told me why, if cracks or improper castings. They just replaced the engine. By 5000 miles, the new engine would crank and never started again. Lemon Law got me all my money back but not worth the headaches!
Yeah why are concerned private inventors having to create aftermarket components to fix major design flaws? I just bought a 2010 Toyota Sequoia after a lifetime of Chevys always needing something four times a year.
@@lloydgood9836 Its always the moronic toyota fan girls. The US government forces ALL car manufactures to route dirty air (water and oil contaminated) back to the engine. Normally this is not a problem on naturally aspirated engines because gasoline is an excellent solvent and will burn it away. Diesel is not a solvent and this has a turbo which is a lot more sensitive to dirty air. Every car, yes that includes your god, Toyota, which uses Turbos (almost every toyota model is turbo charged now) has this issue.
You don't NEED this product your engine will run slightly worse over time, but this won't prevent anything from breaking. There are plenty of these diesels with hundreds of thousands of miles by now without major issues. Keep with your 12 mpg toyota and ill be enjoying my 30-35 mpg diesel powerhouse that can tow anything like its nothing.
what are the necessary modifications/upgrades/improvements one should consider in addition to this one or duramax 3?
how much work is it to get to the heat exchanger to drain it initially before installing this mod?
Why aluminum and not some form of plastic? Would it not cut the cost?
Will it only be available in raw aluminum or will it be available in black?
We will eventually offer them in a satin black!
Great video. I'll have to get one for my new ZR2 with the LZ0. At how many miles would you say you would need to clean out the heat exchanger if you dont have a catch can?? 15k? 20k?
How does this thing work/perform in sub zero weather in the winter..? Has it been thoroughly tested in these conditions...?
Great question. We tested them in -20F and below conditions right here in Nebraska this winter. The Venturi and baffling will keep it operating just like OEM
Is this VSE responding? How was the moisture/water/ice build up in the CC in these conditions then?? Tx
@@sierracatThat was the owner of the company responding. The oil /water will sit in the can until you drain it. When you start the truck you will have CCV around 100F rolling through the CCV and it will maintain the system over and over until you drain it. There really isn't a way water to build up and plug the system due to the baffling and the ventri. Even if it did it would lift the crossover relief between the supply and return hoses to prevent the system from having any issues
If you said it I didn’t hear but , does this void the warranty?
Will this void the warranty?
Absolutely not. Both of our trucks were serviced with the catch cans on them and pointed out to the dealers directly. The Magnuson Moss warranty act would prevent warranty denial as a result of these being installed
www.ftc.gov/legal-library/browse/statutes/magnuson-moss-warranty-federal-trade-commission-improvements-act
could this be causing oil to go into coolant reservoir
Would this catch can void factory warranty?
If installed does it void the warranty?
are you working on LZ0 tunes by chance?
For the amount that these trucks are why should we have to spend and time to make it work like it is supposed to
Anything made by man will have flaw
The federal government mandates that ALL vehicles have to deal with this issue. Especially if it is turbo/super charged.
How quickly will yall know if this will fit on the 2025 suburban? Not sure if they would shift any placement. Planning to order one once available or a gmc but no dif there.
Do you have a video instructions for people like me that have never worked on a truck. I did put on catch can on my last truck a Eco 150. But, the video helped a ton.
When we gonna preorder?
It's open now
runvse.com/2020-2024-vse-lm2-lz0-ccv-catch-can/
Live in Western Wisc and own 2023 3.0 Duramax. Love your videos. Where can I find a person/business to install them on my truck ?
I take it this would completely void your warranty?
I saw them reply down lower, that no it wouldn't because nothing that could go wrong would come back to point to this..
It will not. It is connected in similar fashion to OEM. We are also protected by this act
www.ftc.gov/legal-library/browse/statutes/magnuson-moss-warranty-federal-trade-commission-improvements-act
Yes. GM dreams will be answered.
Will adding this catch can void my engine warranty?
Absolutely!
No it shouldn't, the law says they have to prove that this part caused said damage. That being said if you installed it wrong and your turbo ate the tubing thats on you.
Did you say 15oz of oil?
We ended up getting around 14 OZ of oil after we let it drain for a few hours into that container
Hey Tom, do the LZ0's have an issue with burning oil? There are conflicting stories on this but i am curious of your thoughts as i look at buying a new truck in the next year. Also hear that the 3.0 uses a lot of def when under a load/towing. Is this true and are there remedies if so?
I don't know much about diesels and am just starting to research before i buy. Looking at the Chevy 1500 high country 3.0
Great vid
"Also hear that the 3.0 uses a lot of def when under a load/towing."
Thats normal, the more diesel you burn the more DEF as well. However DEF is really a nothing burger. I use roughly 2.5 gallons every oil change which costs me about $7-$8. Recently I took a long term under heavy load (full cargo, 85 mph entire trip, roughly 3k miles) and I used around 2.5 gallons. Recently I switched to having my dealership do the oil changes because they have a great service plan where they change the oil, rotate the tires, and top off the DEF for $89 each trip. Mind you the oil and filter alone costs me $80 if I were to buy it on amazon, so the deal is a no brainer for me.
When I was looking at the diesel people tried to scare me about DEF, cost of oil changes, and extra costs like fuel filters.
DEF is nothing. The oil changes are a bit tricker since most places don't carry the oil used by GM (or at least didn't). Amazon sells it but like I said for me the dealership was a better bang for the buck. At some point there will likely be much cheaper oil on the market but if you already don't do your own oil changes youll pay roughly the same.
Fuel filters need to be changed more often on diesel, roughly every 20k is good. Its very easy takes about 10 minutes to do it yourself with the right tools and just 2 minutes to prime the pump (hold the start button for 5 seconds without the break) and you're done.
All that being said I switched from Ford to Chevy to get their light duty diesel. Ive done about 20k miles on it so far, towing, road trips, everything in between and it is the best engine I have ever had. I can easily get 30-35 mpg by driving good on the highway and 25-27 mpg in the city. When I tow you can't even feel it, the engine barely needs to down shift even on hills. I will not get another car unless it has a diesel, by far the smoothest and most efficient truck engine I've driven.
Does this fault also apply to the 6.6?
Info where to buy
runvse.com/2020-2024-vse-lm2-lz0-ccv-catch-can/
My 21 3.0 is north of 70k miles. The mileage has actually improved as the miles have gone up. The coolant control valve has and long crank has been the only issues. The long crank was fixed with a re-flash. I don’t feel there is anything to be gained here.
Did you watch the video before you decided there was nothing to be gained here??
@@SuperBuggerboo He is right, the engine will work fine with blow by, unfortunately the federal government requires all engines have to deal with this nonsense. The heat exchanger eventually cooks off oil especially if you drive long/hot/hard. This is one of those things that give you a 1-2% improvements for those who want ultimate peace of mind.
I wonder how the heat from the turbo will affect the return hose. Seems like a ton of heat for basically a heater hose.
what? the factory is "Basically a heater hose.' I have had my vse CCV on my l5p for 150k, no issues with the "heater hose."
Touch some grass, test for yourself, criticize your hypotheticals with real world proof.
@@LegendaryFarm84 you act like it’s ridiculous to question running a rubber hose 2 inches over a turbo that hits hundreds Fahrenheit. Stock hoses don’t sit right above it. And maybe I’d know more if I hadn’t been waiting for 3 months on my truck
@@BabyGators it is ridiculous to ask. stock DOES sit right above it though.
@@LegendaryFarm84 it doesn’t on a 3.0, genius
@@BabyGators you're right you have it figured out. What is your solution ? I can't wait to hear this so I can take a childs advice on what I should change out my 300c rated pcv hoses to. You can add a 1200c insulator sleeve to it and really make it unnecessary. what about the plastic engine cover? wrap that too?
Question, i didn’t quite understand in the video about the heat exchanger being clean or something about those lines. With the catch can installed, should the heat exchanger supposedly clean itself off right? Because it’s now getting cleaner air, am I correct?
Correct the heat exchanger will stay cleaner since the CCV will now have the oil drop out of the air stream and into the catch can prior to it being delivered to the turbo inlet (then the heat exchanger)
Do you have anything for 2nd gen ecodiesel?
What is the Heat Exchangers function? Do we even need it?
It’s a water-air intercooler. He says heat exchanger but yes it is needed otherwise you could have pre-detonation
When is lz0 tuning going to be available, or at least trans tuning, I hate how it hunts for gears when towing, I'd like to lock in a gear like Fords and downshift or upshift as needed
GM trucks let you select which gear you want to be in.
@karlschauff7989 Yes, correct, but you can't lock it in gear like you can in a ford. For example, let's say I'm towing a trailer and the truck is hunting between gears, even though lzo has enough torque not to hunt for gears, in a ford you can manually put it in your desired gear and it will not upshift or downshift no matter what unless you come to a stop.
Can you put it in L and use paddle shifters? Or does it still shift automatically? Also not sure what L stands for its def not low? @fxnytroxtxFPP
Will thermal sleeve be included for the hoses being close to the turbo?
This is the same hose material that actually lays on top of the motor and routes around to the back of the turbo. These are exposed to far less heat than that. Good question though !
When will it come out this looks like a must have
They are already being machined! Check us out!
Hi, is there a reason you don't use something with a filter in it like a mann pro-vent?
The baffling and Venturi keep the oil and water mix in the can without adding an additional filter
we found it far to restrictive and it ended up increasing crank case pressure far to much over factory once there is any run time in it. Plus it relives the CCV to the atmosphere if there is an issue which is technically a violation of CARB and us EPA regulations
This may have been answered already. But, I've got about 1000 miles on my 2024 Sierra(LZ0). With that kind of mileage, would it be at all worth pulling the exchanger and clean while installing the catch can? Or with that kind of mileage is it basically negligible? Thank ya!
Honestly this whole thing is to catch 1-2% improvements. Engines have been forced by the federal government to do this for years and we arent seeing failures or issues. If you drive long / hard for a bit to really get the engine and heat exchanger hot it will likely burn off any oil sitting in there.
Why is this video brighter than the sun on my macbook pro lmao
Will this void any warranty?
My question exactly. I believe it will. Seems obvious.
Will your kit work with the PPE heat exchanger intercooler?
Yes it will. The PPE intercooler doesn't have any connection points with the CCV system
Wouldn't the water vapor flash off?
The water vapor doesn't flash off and if it really did then we wouldn't have oil / water vapor sitting inside of the heat exchanger that we pulled off our truck. The reason the water vapor doesn't just flash off is because you have the system under pressure while driving (boost pressure) The increase in pressure increasing the boiling point of the water (saturation temperature, and is part of basic thermodynamics and fluid hydraulics) As an example the typical turbo discharge temperatures of these trucks driving around under load is 200-250F at 18-25psig of boost. Saturation temperature of water at 20psig is 258.8F. This means that the water vapor leaving the turbo at say a max of 250F is 8 degrees subcooled so the water can't possibly flash at that point. You can look these values up right on the steam tables for saturation pressure. Further - the temperature drops as the charge airflow passes through the heat exchanger and typically exists around 120F under the conditions above. We know without looking at a steam table that the saturation temperature at sea level for water is 212F so at 120F the water can't possibly be flashing off since it is at a minimum 92F subcooled.
@@trumpiomost likely this is a fake account we are responding to - but research and understand basic steamtables and icenthalpic expansion through a heat exchanger - you will see what we are talking about and why there is an issue here. A heat exchanger with cast ends isn't more efficient - thermally more heat from the engine bay is conducted through the cast and warms the air inside the heat exchanger by a large margin. This is why, as an example the PPE heat exchanger has to be larger to overcome the thermal conductivity through the casting. OEM uses plastic because of low thermal conduction as well as cost of production.
basic steam table link
www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiMp5i4-_OEAxV9FjQIHT4GDWsQFnoECBUQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.milwaukeevalve.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2Ftechnical-service-information%2FSteamTable.pdf&usg=AOvVaw28ooJgNqIA1q2QuuLkINlS&opi=89978449
@runvse Great explanation helped me to understand thank you. The only reason I questioned is in my line of work in gas compression if we have vapors in our oil it flashes off when we are around 210-230 degrees.
@@kilo2330 Correct - it all depends on saturation temperature. Water boils off at 212F at 14.6psia (0psig) but if we raise the pressure it raises the boil off temperature (saturation temperature) The outlet of the heat exchanger is vastly lower in temp which allows a fair amount of condensation from the oil vapor to come out of the mixture and enter the combustion chamber
Where did you relocate the module that sits on top of the battery?
The module stays in place, just run the bolt out, run our bolt into the existing bracking and used the nut we supply to bolt the catch can in place. It takes about 30 min to install.
@@runvse it seems that the hoses and wiring harness would be a tight fit and would cause rubbing issue between the three, this leading to a hole in the or exposed wiring. Of course this won’t happen right away, but it seems possible to happen over time.
@@gasparsperformance9841the hoses come out an an angle and do not rub on anything. one you install it it is good for years if not decades with no maintenance other than draining on the oil change intervals
@@runvse my truck has a wiring harness that’s on top of the turbo and goes towards a module that sits on top of the battery. I see that the truck you showed in your video doesn’t have that wire harness or module. I’m not sure if this is something that was changed on the LZ0 or if that module pertains to trucks with certain features
will it come in different colors?
It will come in satin black eventually
I’ve seen people pull catch cans off after 3 months with basically nothing inside. I don’t think this is a problem.
Its really not this is a 1-2% improvement type of thing.
Great video has GM commented or has made change to their engine. I was going to purchase a 2024 Suburban with the Duramax 3.0 LZO, not now!
Why would that change your mind? That is pretty much a normal thing for most CCV/PCV systems. The 3.0 LZ0 is a great engine.
Your loss.
There is nothing to change, this is a federal mandate all engines have to deal with it. You should absolutely get the LZ0. Stuff like this is to chase a 1-2% improvement at best.
The heat exchanger should make it through the warranty period shouldn't it? Then it's increased parts/service sales for the dealership. GM, gotta love 'em!
No different than any other brand. Like Ford switching to oil pump belts on the 2.7 Ecoboost and 5.0 Coyote, and then purposely routing the belt behind the timing chain so you're paying for an oil pump belt service and and timing chain service in one go. You end up with an oil pump belt service that's more expensive to do than the rear belt on the 3.0 Dmax.
I’ve had the charge air cooler replaced twice on my 2021. Once at 40 000 km and then at 101000 km. Wonder if this has anything to with it.
It could have if the charge air cooler gets full of oil and begins setting Pcodes. It unlikely to damage the actual cooler itself though
this is an ordinary oil dump) crankcase gas separator... where did the $350 price come from? I can take any tank, ban it under the hood, buy it for low-resistance slugs and all this will come out at $70... such a thing is worth me on hemi 6.1)
Then make your own from similar materials and post it for sale. Make sure it doesn't increase crank case pressure
I wouldn’t use brake cleaner to clean the heat x changer. I’d use contact or electronics cleaner. It won’t be detrimental to the end tanks .
It needs a relief valve or it could kill the engine if it got blocked
there has been a change in the matrix.
Indeed - and there is alot more coming from us
Doesn’t GM know about this issue? If so, why do the considered it “not an issue”. I’ve seen ford mechanics say catch cans do nothing to help save the Ford blow by….
All of this is Government EPA heavy handed ness. These diesel’s have to be as clean as a gas engine yet they get significantly better mileage. The better mileage alone makes them cleaner than a gasoline engine due to 25-20% less fuel burnt.
They only get better mileage unloaded. Most diesel owners will be towing most of the time. Then mpg almost the same !
"If so, why do the considered it “not an issue”. " because it really isn't. The heat exchanger eventually cooks off the oil. This is one of those things that MAYBE it will be like 1-2% better or get SLIGHTLY more miles before needing a replacement turbo.
@@slalomking Thats an absolute lie. When I tow with my diesel I get 22 mpg, which you have to drive perfectly in a v8 with premium to get close to that number. If you tow with the v8 you are down to 9-12 mpg MAXIMUM.
This is an awesome innovation! I may need to give GM some additional time to work out the bugs of this engine. The first generation had the timing chains in the rear of the engine and the second is blowing oil into the intercooler.
They just need more time to work on a solution to the issues. I'm sure it's an awesome engine..
" I may need to give GM some additional time to work out the bugs of this engine."
The federal government mandates that ALL engines have to blow oil and water back into the intercooler/engine. This is not a bug but an actual federal requirement. That being said it is an awesome engine, I can get 30-35 mpg on it easy and tows like a dream. I drove from Houston to Tampa and only needed to fill up 1 and 1/2 times going 85 mph almost the entire way.
I have yet to hear of an oil pump belt failing please find another problem son
You will, it just a matter of time !
@@slalomking no I won’t we will trade way before 200k miles 🤣
This will void the warranty. I saw a video where they said that a guy’s off roading tires voided the warranty.
That’s why I will get the extended warranty……I don’t put aftermarket things on my vehicles until they are way out of factory warranty
The heat exchanger is harder than he thinks I won't do it. Even though I want it but have no one to do it for me
Timestamp: Six minutes & 35 seconds. Re: Condensed water vapor droplets are not good for turbine blades. "Micro dings" at turbine speeds they are like little rocks.
WHEN CAN I GET ONE FOR MY CUMMINGS?!?!?!?
BETTER BE MADE IN AMERICA TO NOT SUM COMMISTS CRAP GOBBLESS
What’s a Cummings?
@@Lawnfella BEST DERG GONE DIESEL ENGINE EVER MADE **BRO**
@@SteveBassenIt is - you can see right on our channel and even come right to our facility and watch us make all the stuff we sell!
@@Dave88LXnever heard of a Cummings
I don’t see enough baffles in that catch can for it to be effective
During testing it will keep the return hose going back to the turbo nearly oil free. 2 baffle sets and a small venturi keep the system very clean.
You should bring this to GMs attention.
This is all because of emissions standards and all motors have dump the crap back into the motors.
@@MrChadw1974 Also they dont trust the owner to remember to empty the catch can.
I have used a catch can for over 10 years in my supercharged camaro.
These are nothing new.. and they definitely work and are worth it if you intend to have your vehicle for a while.
All vehicles have to deal with this by law.
Another bad design is the lack of replaceable bearings in the head for the overhead camshaft
Incorrect, you can replace the entire camshaft girdle without removing the head. It is a much easier and faster repair
@@Nominale_ I guess that’s the alternative to camshaft bearing replacement. It’s actually not a bad design at all. Thanks for sharing this with me
I’m a John Deere mechanic and one of my buddies working with me told me this. I have a 3.0 d max, so far good for me
Nice!
Is the release date still on time? Pre ordered mine and hoping it ships Monday 🤞🏼
2 to 4 inches of vacuum is huge. I think he probably was thinking mm.
The fact that you have to do these things to new vehicles (ecoboosts are the same) is...quite ridiculous to me. I appreciate your engineering and what you are doing, but I just can't get over the fact that these new trucks are designed/tested so poorly anymore. You shouldn't be doing this, the GM engineers should.
Exactly. Just bought my first Toyota. 2010 Sequoia with 150k miles. Amazing piece of engineering. Was a lifetime chevy guy.
👍👍
or just leave the drain hose open and extend it down by the frame rail? why bother with draining it. then it just acts like a normal pcv removal kit like had been done on duramax trucks for years
Because there is a crank case pressure sensor that will trip right away and set a P04DB code. It monitors crankcase vacuum
It will trip the CCV pressure switch nearly immediately.
The largest fault in the 3.0 is the belt driven oil pump
It has a 200k mile service interval.
@@MendicantBias1
Well the crankshaft driven oil pump like on the 6.6 duramax has an unlimited service interval
@@David-yy7lb at 15k miles a year it would take 13 years before needing service. Plenty of chain driven systems have failures. The belt can be changed in a day and is designed for servicing. It’s a mountain out a molehill criticism.
Came here to say this
@@MendicantBias1I put 40k a year on a truck
That's what happens to me when I wipe too hard 10:45
Am also new to this your video is awsome can dumb it down how this will save my oil consumption problem so i can explain this to my wife damn thats alot of money but if it saves oil in the long run then yeah sign me up thanks in advance
5 year 60k power train warranty. It would be easier to just bring your truck in and let the mechanics fix your issue.
I love the elevator music
another example of engineers being show how dumb they are so we have add protective upgrades
The design is nice, but I feel like there could have been a more economical way to build this rather than complete billet assembly.
If they did that you'd complain about it being cheap plastic from China. It's billet or a stamping, and stampings require more work to assemble and add threads and connectors to.
@@ShortArmOfGod Amen brother, glad someone said it
I think I dodged a bullet not getting my wife the Yukon she wanted. 68k for a truck that was designed to self destruct
16 ounces, I don’t believe it!
For a $55k plus truck, this makes no sense to require any additional add ons, or aftermarket parts. America needs to build better products, and provide better services. I’m pissed because I own a LM2.🤬
Don't worry about this useless doohicky. They're just selling snake oil
Why is it up to after market jobs to find solutions to, and the buyer to pay for these agregious engineering mistakes??!!! The
Manufacturers should replace this or fix the problem ABSOLUTELY FREE with what they want for vehicles now adays.
So your upgrade removes 100% of the oil and gunk from the air ? Its activly cooled rifht becuse your not pulling it all out without condensing it somewhere and just like all catch cans they warm up and stop working. People and their clickbait titles let you know that a company is garbage. Hope this also fixes the wet belt timing that fails you into 20k long block job.
Maybe research how the CCV system actually works. Air flows through the CCV system and enters the catch can as a mixture of oil/water. They are both heavier than air. The higher density items settle in the bottom of the can. CCV at its highest enters around 120-130F which means water will still condense as the temperature of the can is lower than the temperature of the CCV - that's how condensation works - we didn't invent classic physics, but we do live by them.