Nice video. thanks for posting. what brought me here is I'm considering purchasing a purty 57 5.5 sea horse as a complete neophyte on boat motors, but the seller has it looking good and has replaced points, condenser, carb and water pump and says it runs well thx again
The '57 Evinrude is one of the best looking classic OMCs made IMO. Great little motors amd an excellent one to learn on if you want to learn how to work on them. Make sure you run it on 16:1 premix using TCW-3 oil. Stick to ethanol free gasoline if at all possible. Thanks for watching!
Got a good sound to it n don't miss a beat gets the 👍 here, thank you for the video. I got the 53 7.5 fleetwin running, I need to get it out on River to tweek settings on carb
This was a great running motor. It wasn't fast but it would always go and was an awesome troller. I sold this one a couple years ago. Thanks for watching!
Hi, I have the same motor but having some issues with it. I completely cleaned the carb but It only starts at wide open throttle. Itll run clean then but as soon as I back off the throttle itll die. I have the high speed needle adjusted at about 3/4 of a turn and the low speed at 1.5. Not sure what i'm doing wrong
What else has been done to your motor other than cleaning the carb? Have you been through the ignition? The needle settings should be close enough to run better than you describe. It sounds like you may have an ignition problem as well. Do you know if the coils have been replaced? Originals from this time period will crack and leak spark to ground. If they get damp, they won't fire. A motor that is running on one cylinder will sometimes act as you are describing. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404with how it sounds I'd say its definently running on two. However I do believe they are the original coils. Where would your reccomend getting new ones?
@@lucaslirette7643 if your not very familiar with how these motors sound and run, running on one can easily be mistaken for two. Your local Evinrude service and parts dealer can get the coils, points, and condensers. I get many of my parts from Marineengine.com. They do have all the tune up parts available. If your coils are original in a '62 they almost 100% certainly need to be replaced. Those coils were noted for having the covers crack and the coils fail.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 so I replaced the coils and recleaned the carb and I can now get it to idle and run good. Only thing is itll die if I go below start. Itll idle quite low at the start point but will still rev up to fast. Any ideas? Right about at start is where the roller will start to engage on the throttle part.
There is nothing really available in the way of new carburetors for these motors. There are still some NOS carbs and carburetor parts available but it would end up costing more to replace that than the motor is worth. Rebuild kits are available and a rebuild would most likely bring your existing carburetor back to nearly new condition. How long does it run before it dies? Have you cleaned the carburetor? Have you confirmed that the fuel pump works? I highly recommend doing a full tune up service on your motor to bring it back to proper function and reliability. Chrysleroutboarddude has a very good video on his channel on tuning up the 5.5hp. His video is on a 1955 model, bit other than cosmetics and your fuel pump vs. the pressure fuel system on the earlier motor the procedure is the same. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Well, it's more how you want the knobs set than where to set the knobs. I have a video on this channel about how to dial in the two-circuit OMC carburetors. The needles themselves should be set at the initial position of about 1.5 turns out from lightly seated. Those will be both over rich. From there the mixture should be leaned out to best running condition doing the high speed needle first under load at WOT. Once the engine is up to temperature and high speed is dialed in, then dial in the low speed. The video shows how I dod.this with a test wheel in a tank. For best results it should be done on the boat on the water. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I own a 1962 5.5 CD- 19s. About how fast should it be pushing my 14ft jonboat upriver? Also, the packing nut on high needle rattles loose after about an hr of running. Ive made sure it was nice n snug w/o over tightening it. Could you offer any advice? Thanks
A good healthy 5.5 will push me in a 14 foot semi vee at 9-10 mph. I have one that managed 11mph on the same boat. Upriver depens on speed of the current, how the boat is loaded, and how easily the boat planes. If the packing nut is rattling loose after an hour, you may need to replace the needle packing. It should hold tension on the needles and not rattle loose with decent tension on them. Thanks for watching!
I typically use 5/16" line from a single line tank. Some of the pre-made lines I have use 3/8", but I always use 5/16" if I put one together myself. It has no problem supplying fuel even to a 55hp. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Hey thanks for the feed back on the fuel line size,kinda figured 5/16 the way to go, went to Wally world got connectors omc 3/8, attwood, then lowes, for clear vinyl 5/16 ID. Only thing I did not go cheap on is the primer bulb,played up got omc brand after reading reviews,on WM brand,thanks for the videos you post,very helpful for viewers like me, tinkering with these real motors, of the day, keep um coming PS remember keep your prop out of the mud!
Yes, the powerhead has to be removed to drop the lower unit for water pump service on all of the OMC 5.5hps and the 1950s 7.5hps. It is quite a simple thing to remove the powerhead on these. They were designed to be removed as part of regular maintenance, so not difficult. Thanks for watching!
It was a good runner, but not very strong. It belongs to someone else now. They were happy with its performance when they purchased it amd had no interest in going anywhere fast. If I had kept it, I may have tried giving it a hone and a new set of rings. Thanks for watching!
That seems to be about the best this one will do. I dialed it in to its happiest place before I made the video. Both needles show some wear. I may try putting them in the lathe and reworking the points to see if it helps any. It does act like the high speed is a tad rich. With the rope plate missing from the rewind, that open hole in the cowl makes it noisy too. It is a dependable runner though.
Mary McKenzie Thanks for watching. The S is a minor mid-year model revision. Typically there is some tiny change such as a gasket part number or something that is given a letter suffix on these model numbers. The only way to tell the difference really is if you are ordering parts, some parts will show as applicable to certain suffixes. Sometimes it is not even a detectable difference.
Binh Bentsen I'll try to do that sometime. What would you like to see the water pump service done on? Depending on the motor there are slight differences in the process.
Ebay is sometimes a good place to look. If you get on AOMCI.ORG on the Ask-A-Member board, someone may have an electronic version they could send you. Thanks for watching!
Ya, it isn't bad. Not much to look at but it is a good runner. Starts and runs well and very reliable now. it would be quieter with the rope plate to cover up the hole in the hood. I haven't found one yet though and it was missing when I got the motor. What can you expect for $20 right?
Nice video. thanks for posting. what brought me here is I'm considering purchasing a purty 57 5.5 sea horse as a complete neophyte on boat motors, but the seller has it looking good and has replaced points, condenser, carb and water pump and says it runs well thx again
The '57 Evinrude is one of the best looking classic OMCs made IMO. Great little motors amd an excellent one to learn on if you want to learn how to work on them. Make sure you run it on 16:1 premix using TCW-3 oil. Stick to ethanol free gasoline if at all possible. Thanks for watching!
Got a good sound to it n don't miss a beat gets the 👍 here, thank you for the video. I got the 53 7.5 fleetwin running, I need to get it out on River to tweek settings on carb
This was a great running motor. It wasn't fast but it would always go and was an awesome troller. I sold this one a couple years ago. Thanks for watching!
Great to hear you got the Fleetwin running. Enjoy it!
Hi, I have the same motor but having some issues with it. I completely cleaned the carb but It only starts at wide open throttle. Itll run clean then but as soon as I back off the throttle itll die. I have the high speed needle adjusted at about 3/4 of a turn and the low speed at 1.5. Not sure what i'm doing wrong
What else has been done to your motor other than cleaning the carb? Have you been through the ignition? The needle settings should be close enough to run better than you describe. It sounds like you may have an ignition problem as well. Do you know if the coils have been replaced? Originals from this time period will crack and leak spark to ground. If they get damp, they won't fire. A motor that is running on one cylinder will sometimes act as you are describing. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404with how it sounds I'd say its definently running on two. However I do believe they are the original coils. Where would your reccomend getting new ones?
It sounds quite smooth up high so I think it definently is running on 2. But at lower it must not be getting enough spark to fire then
@@lucaslirette7643 if your not very familiar with how these motors sound and run, running on one can easily be mistaken for two. Your local Evinrude service and parts dealer can get the coils, points, and condensers. I get many of my parts from Marineengine.com. They do have all the tune up parts available. If your coils are original in a '62 they almost 100% certainly need to be replaced. Those coils were noted for having the covers crack and the coils fail.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 so I replaced the coils and recleaned the carb and I can now get it to idle and run good. Only thing is itll die if I go below start. Itll idle quite low at the start point but will still rev up to fast. Any ideas? Right about at start is where the roller will start to engage on the throttle part.
I’ve got one like this I got for real cheap tried cleaning carb still will start fire up and then shut down and idea of a replacement carb for it ?
There is nothing really available in the way of new carburetors for these motors. There are still some NOS carbs and carburetor parts available but it would end up costing more to replace that than the motor is worth. Rebuild kits are available and a rebuild would most likely bring your existing carburetor back to nearly new condition. How long does it run before it dies? Have you cleaned the carburetor? Have you confirmed that the fuel pump works? I highly recommend doing a full tune up service on your motor to bring it back to proper function and reliability. Chrysleroutboarddude has a very good video on his channel on tuning up the 5.5hp. His video is on a 1955 model, bit other than cosmetics and your fuel pump vs. the pressure fuel system on the earlier motor the procedure is the same. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I’ll take a look at his video thank you
Hard to beat the 5.5 hp motor
Yessir, the 5.5s are great little motors!
hey i have this same motor .. where do i need to have knobs on ?
Well, it's more how you want the knobs set than where to set the knobs. I have a video on this channel about how to dial in the two-circuit OMC carburetors. The needles themselves should be set at the initial position of about 1.5 turns out from lightly seated. Those will be both over rich. From there the mixture should be leaned out to best running condition doing the high speed needle first under load at WOT. Once the engine is up to temperature and high speed is dialed in, then dial in the low speed. The video shows how I dod.this with a test wheel in a tank. For best results it should be done on the boat on the water. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I own a 1962 5.5 CD- 19s. About how fast should it be pushing my 14ft jonboat upriver? Also, the packing nut on high needle rattles loose after about an hr of running. Ive made sure it was nice n snug w/o over tightening it. Could you offer any advice? Thanks
A good healthy 5.5 will push me in a 14 foot semi vee at 9-10 mph. I have one that managed 11mph on the same boat. Upriver depens on speed of the current, how the boat is loaded, and how easily the boat planes. If the packing nut is rattling loose after an hour, you may need to replace the needle packing. It should hold tension on the needles and not rattle loose with decent tension on them. Thanks for watching!
Sum lock tight will do the trick
Is that 3/8 fuel line your running from tank?, I'm rigging up my suppy line, to a 61 Johnson 5.5, should I go with 5/16?
I typically use 5/16" line from a single line tank. Some of the pre-made lines I have use 3/8", but I always use 5/16" if I put one together myself. It has no problem supplying fuel even to a 55hp. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Hey thanks for the feed back on the fuel line size,kinda figured 5/16 the way to go, went to Wally world got connectors omc 3/8, attwood, then lowes, for clear vinyl 5/16 ID. Only thing I did not go cheap on is the primer bulb,played up got omc brand after reading reviews,on WM brand,thanks for the videos you post,very helpful for viewers like me, tinkering with these real motors, of the day, keep um coming PS remember keep your prop out of the mud!
I’ve used 1/4 inch in a pinch 😳
Do you have to remove the power head to change the impeller on this motor?
Yes, the powerhead has to be removed to drop the lower unit for water pump service on all of the OMC 5.5hps and the 1950s 7.5hps. It is quite a simple thing to remove the powerhead on these. They were designed to be removed as part of regular maintenance, so not difficult. Thanks for watching!
It might be a good idea to hone the cylinders and replace the rings on this one. It seems a little anemic.
It was a good runner, but not very strong. It belongs to someone else now. They were happy with its performance when they purchased it amd had no interest in going anywhere fast. If I had kept it, I may have tried giving it a hone and a new set of rings. Thanks for watching!
Kind a sounds like the high needle needs leaned out a little more?
That seems to be about the best this one will do. I dialed it in to its happiest place before I made the video. Both needles show some wear. I may try putting them in the lathe and reworking the points to see if it helps any. It does act like the high speed is a tad rich. With the rope plate missing from the rewind, that open hole in the cowl makes it noisy too. It is a dependable runner though.
Thanks for that vid. I have the exact same engine and year....1962 seahorse/5.5 mine is a CD-19 S. Wonder what the S stands for.
Mary McKenzie Thanks for watching. The S is a minor mid-year model revision. Typically there is some tiny change such as a gasket part number or something that is given a letter suffix on these model numbers. The only way to tell the difference really is if you are ordering parts, some parts will show as applicable to certain suffixes. Sometimes it is not even a detectable difference.
Mary McKenzie You're welcome. :-)
I thought the s stood for short shaft
Can you do video of installing the wateR pump
Binh Bentsen I'll try to do that sometime. What would you like to see the water pump service done on? Depending on the motor there are slight differences in the process.
Where can you find a manual for this
Ebay is sometimes a good place to look. If you get on AOMCI.ORG on the Ask-A-Member board, someone may have an electronic version they could send you. Thanks for watching!
Still is very quiet, never judge a book by its cover, will probably run another 20 years...
Ya, it isn't bad. Not much to look at but it is a good runner. Starts and runs well and very reliable now. it would be quieter with the rope plate to cover up the hole in the hood. I haven't found one yet though and it was missing when I got the motor. What can you expect for $20 right?